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HOME  ECONOMICS 

A  PRACTICAL  GUIDE 
IN  EVERY  BRANCH 
OF  HOUSEKEEPING 

BY 

MARIAPARLOA 

FOUNDER   OF   THE    ORIGINAL    COOKING-SCHOOL    IN    BOSTON— AUTHOR 

OF    "KITCHEN    COMPANION,"    "NEW    COOK    BOOK    AND    MARKET 

GUIDE,"   "APPLEDORE  COOK    BOOK,"   "YOUNG    HOUSE. 

KEEPER,"   "FIRST    PRINCIPLES   OF   HOUSEHOLD 

MANAGEMENT   AND    COOKERY, "  ETC.,  1TO. 

ILLUSTRATED 


.  .  wm&x**t 


NEW  YORK 

THE  CENTURY  CO. 

1910 


\* 


K 


Copyright,  1898,  1906, 
By  The  Century  Co. 


PREFACE 

"Home  economics,"  "domestic  science,"  "domestic  econ- 
omy," and  "household  economy"  are  all  terms  which  are 
applied  to  the  same  science  (the  management  of  the  home). 
In  Europe,  where  this  subject  has  received  much  more  at- 
tention than  in  this  country,  the  term  "  domestic  economy  " 
is  the  one  generally  employed. 

Home  economics  covers  a  vast  field,  to  which  nearly  all 
the  arts  and  sciences  contribute.  Few  women  have  the  time 
to  devote  to  investigation  and  experiment  in  all  the  lines 
that  bear  upon  the  making  of  the  home.  In  these  days  of 
specializing,  it  would  take  a  large  library  and  much  time  to 
cull  from  the  various  sources  the  kinds  of  knowledge  that 
bear  directly  upon  the  making  and  the  management  of  the 
home.  The  aim  of  this  book  is  to  supply  such  knowledge 
in  a  clear,  practical,  and  concise  manner. 

There  seems  to  be  a  need  for  a  book  that  deals  with  the 
necessities  of  daily  home  life,  that  teaches  the  housekeeper 
the  materials  and  forces  with  which  she  has  to  deal,  and  the 
way  in  which  they  should  be  treated.  This  book  has  been 
planned  upon  this  basis.  It  treats  of  the  conditions  which 
make  the  soil  under  the  house  and  in  the  immediate  neighbor- 
hood healthful  or  unhealthful,  the  changes  in  water  caused 
by  proper  and  improper  conditions,  the  sources  and  char- 
acteristics of  fuels  and  oils,  besides  giving  careful  con- 
sideration to  the  material  that  enters  into  the  construction 
and  the  furnishing  of  the  home. 

v 

335794 


vi  PREFACE 

The  chapters  on  marketing  and  carving  are  planned  in  a 
novel  way,  showing  by  the  skeleton  the  portion  of  the  bone 
in  each  cut  of  meat.  Then  are  given  the  position  and  struc- 
ture of  the  muscles  of  the  animal,  the  changed  position  of 
the  bones  and  muscles  in  the  hind  quarter  when  the  animal 
is  hung,  until  the  final  cutting  into  joints  by  the  butcher, 
and  the  cutting  into  portions  by  the  carver.  Any  one  who 
will  study  these  two  chapters  carefully  cannot  fail  to  get 
a  clear  and  practical  knowledge  of  these  two  important 
branches  of  home  economics. 

The  care  of  wood  finish  and  of  polished  floors  is  becom- 
ing more  and  more  a  necessary  part  of  the  education  of  the 
housekeeper.  Beautiful  floors  and  finishes  are  being  con- 
stantly ruined  for  lack  of  proper  treatment.  The  polishing 
of  floors  opens  a  new  avenue  of  employment  for  careful,  in- 
telligent men. 

While  there  has  been  no  attempt  made  toward  giving 
receipts  for  cookery,  the  chapter  on  foods  will  be  found  to 
embody  the  principles  underlying  all  good  cookery. 

Every  statement  has  been  thoroughly  tested  by  the  author 
in  the  years  that  she  has  devoted  to  the  study  and  experi- 
ments which  have  made  this  volume  possible. 

Maria  Parloa. 

preface  to  second  edition 

Through  my  magazine  correspondence  in  the  past  eight 
years  I  have  been  asked  for  help  in  solving  a  great  many 
household  problems.  Out  of  the  thousands  of  answers 
to  these  questions,  I  have  selected  over  sixty  which  apply 
to  problems  that  are  liable  to  arise  in  most  households. 

These  recipes  will  add  to  the  value  of  the  book,  and  will, 
I  am  sure,  be  appreciated  by  housekeepers. 

Maria  Parloa. 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 

Preface v 


CHAPTER    I 

Some  Essentials  op  the  Home 

Selecting  the  house.— Size  and  style  of  the  house.— The  skeleton 
and  circulatory  system  of  the  house.— The  situation  and  foundation 
of  the  house.— The  foundation-walls.— A  closet  for  preserves  and 
similar  supplies.— General  plan  of  the  house.— The  kitchen  and 
pantries.— Pantries. — Materials  used  in  building.— The  interior 
finish  of  the  house.— The  chimney  and  furnace-pipes. — The  plumb- 
ing.— Country  houses.—  Drainage  and  earth-closets. 


CHAPTER  II 

The  Water-Supply 27 

Situation  and  depth  of  well  or  spring.— Methods  of  softening  and 
purifying  water.— Tests  for  impurities  in  water. 

CHAPTER  III 

Furnishing 35 

The  hall.— The  dining-room.— The  library.— The  living-room.— The 
parlor.— The  bedrooms.— The  kitchen.— Kitchen  utensils.— Tin- 
ware.—Ironware.—  Granite-ware.— Woodenware.—  Earthenware.— 
Stoneware.— Miscellaneous.— Ventilation. 

CHAPTER  IV 

Daily  Routine  op  Household  Work        ......    61 

General  directions  for  sweeping  and  dusting.— To  clean  matting.— 
How  to  wash  windows.— Cleaning  copper  and  brasses.— How  to 

Vil 


vi»  CONTENTS 

PAGE 

clean  painted  woodwork.— Care  of  window-sashes.— Care  of  dining- 
room.— Care  of  tableware.— Care  of  kitchen  and  pantries.— Care 
of  the  floors.— Care  of  kitchen  utensils.— Tinware.— Woodenware. 
—The  tea-kettle.— Tea-pots  and  coffee-pots.— Care  of  the  refrig- 
erator.—The  sink.— To  clean  an  iron  sink.— Care  of  cellar.— 
Household  refuse.— Care  of  the  plumbing. 


CHAPTER  V 

The  Laundry 98 

Soaking  the  clothes.— Washing  the  clothes. — Summary  of  the  work. 
—To  prepare  bluing-water.— Flannels.— Colored  flannels.— Sum- 
mary.—Blankets.— Colored  cotton  articles.— Washing  with  starch. 
—To  make  the  starch.— Silk  undergarments.— Washing  with  kero- 
sene.—Lace  curtains.— Starching.— To  make  gum-arabic  starch.— 
Stiffening  with  gelatin.— Boiled  starch.— Raw  starch.— Hanging 
clothes  out  to  dry.— Folding  clothes  for  ironing.— Preparing 
for  ironing.— Folding  the  clothes  after  ironing.— A  few  words  about 
the  clothes- wringer.— The  laundry.— How  to  dissolve  soap.— How 
to  clean  irons. 


CHAPTER  VI 

Care  of  Lighting  Appliances 126 

Management  of   gas.— Oil-lamps.— Some  facts  in  regard  to  pe- 
troleum. 


CHAPTER  VII 

Fuel  and  Fires 133 

Kinds  of  fuel.— Care  of  the  furnace  fire.— The  morning  work.— 
The  cold-air  box.— Heating-stoves.— Care  of  the  range.— Some 
points  to  remember  in  the  treatment  of  range  fires.— Grate  fires.— 
Don'ts.— To  remove  clinkers. 


CHAPTER  VIII 

Table  Service 148 

General  arrangements  of  the  table.— The  breakfast-table.— The 
dinner-table.— The  luncheon-table.— The  tea-table.— Waiting  on 
the  table.— Ceremonious  entertaining.— Some  points  on  table 
etiquette.— The  duties  of  the  waitress.— Protecting  the  table  from 
hot  dishes. 


CONTENTS  ix 


CHAPTER  IX 

PAGE 

Marketing 168 

The  muscular  system.— Some  characteristics  of  the  muscular  flesh 
of  animals.— The  minor  parts  of  the  animal.— 'Game  and  poultry.— 
Care  and  purchase  of  general  supplies. 


CHAPTER  X 

The  Art  op  Carving 202 

Some  suggestions  about  carving.— General  remarks  on  serving  fish. 

CHAPTER    XI 

Food 222 

Brief  outline  of  the  processes  of  digestion.— Fruits.— Fats.— Princi- 
ples underlying  the  cooking  of  albuminous  substances.— Principles 
underlying  the  cooking  of  vegetable  substances.— The  manipulation 
of  materials.— Flavors  and  odors.— Economy  in  food.— Growth  and 
repair;— Heat  and  force.— Vegetables  with  little  or  no  starch. 

CHAPTER  Xn 

Woods  and  Polished  Floors 262 

Polished  floors.— Hard-wood  floors.— Waxed  floors.— To  clean  and 
wax  at  the  same  time.— Summary.— Stained  floors  waxed.— General 
directions  for  oiling  floors.— Summary.— Cleaning  with  petroleum.— 
Appliances  used  in  polishing  floors.— Piazza  floors. 

CHAPTER  XIII 

Treatment  op  Wood  Finishes 279 

To  restore  color  and  finish  to  wood.— Summary.— How  to  make  pads 
for  wood  finishing.— To  clean  and  restore  the  polish  on  woods.— Sum- 
mary.—To  clean  the  woodwork  of  furniture. 

CHAPTER  XIV 

Oils:  Their  Use  and  Behavior 288 

Lubricating  oils.— Cleaning  oils.— Oils  used  as  foods  and  medicines.— 
Cotton-seed  oil.— Castor-oil.— Cod-liver  oil.— Spontaneous  combustion. 


i  CONTENTS 

CHAPTER  XV 

JAGE 

Stains 300 

Stains  on  fabrics.— Stains  on  wood. 


CHAPTER  XVI 

Miscellaneous  Matter 312 

Some  points  on  laying  floor-coverings.— The  finishing,  filling,  and 
staining  of  floors.— How  to  prepare  the  filler.— Staining  with  chem- 
icals.—The  preparation  and  application  of  stains.— Summary.— Points 
on  mixing  stains. —Stains  made  from  colors  ground  in  oil.— Stains 
made  from  colors  in  powder.— To  graduate  the  stains.— Things  im- 
portant to  remember.— Gluing  furniture  and  other  articles.— How 
to  mend  plaster  casts  and  picture-frames.— To  clean  plaster  casts.— 
To  wax  and  stain  casts.— Care  of  small  marbles  and  alabaster.— To 
clean  bronzes.— To  polish  the  brass  trimmings  of  furniture.— Some 
uses  of  lime-water.— Chloride  of  lime.— Liquid  soda.— Javelle  water. 
—Carbolic  acid.— Solution  of  oxalic  acid.— Furniture-cleaner  and -pol- 
isher.—Encaustic  No.  1.— Encaustic  No.  2.— Wax  for  polishing  furni- 
ture.—Materials  for  care  of  furniture  and  floors.— Fullers'  earth.— To 
clean  with  fullers'  earth.— To  make  scouring-balls.— To  clean  with 
scouring-balls.— How  to  put  new  linings  in  boots  and  shoes.— To  clean 
combs  and  brushes.— To  clean  coat  collars.— Aids  in  darning  large 
holes.— How  to  revive  and  straighten  whalebone.— To  prevent  stains 
showing  through  whitewash  or  paper.— To  prevent  the  corners  of 
rugs  from  curling.— How  to  heat  inflammable  substances.— Precau- 
tions to  be  taken  in  cleaning.— Frames  for  dress- waists  and  men's 
clothing.— Convenient  clothes-rack.— Steel  wool  and  steel  shavings. 
—Insects  and  vermin.— Cockroaches.— Thermometers  in  the  kitchen. 
—The  melting-point  of  some  metals  and  alloys.— The  melting-point  of 
some  fats  and  sugar.— Bacteriology.— Household  accounts,  and  the 
division  of  the  income. 


CHAPTER  XVII 
Supplementary  Chapter 353 

Index 389 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


FIG.  PAGE 

1  Plan  op  Cold  Room  in  Cellar 10 

2  Plan  of  Kitchen,  China-Closet,  and  Pantries  .       .       .       .13 

3  Plan  of  China-Closet  and  Pantry 15 

4  Plan  of  Cold  Pantry 16 

5  Plan  of  Closets  for  Cleaning-Appliances,  Wraps,  etc.    .       .  16 

6  Kitchen  Dresser 17 

7  Kitchen  Dresser 18 

8  Sewer-Gas  Traps 24 

9  Stove  Showing  Direction  of  Waves  of  Heat  when  Smoke- 

Damper  is  Opened 142 

9a  Stove  Showing  Direction  of  Waves  of  Heat  when  Smoke- 
Damper  is  Closed 143 

10  Skeleton  of  Ox,  Showing  Location  of  the  Bones  in  the  Va- 

rious Cuts  of  Meat 174 

11  Muscular  Fiber,  Showing  the  Arrangement  in  Bundles  .       .  175 

12  Muscular  Fiber,  Partially  Separated  into  Fibrils  .        .        .  175 

13  Muscular  Fiber,  Cut  across  the  Grain     .....  175 

14  Muscular  System  of  an  Ox,  Showing  the  Direction  in  which 

the  Muscles  Run,  and  where  the  Different  Cuts  Come  from  177 

15  Showing  Changed  Position  of  Thigh-Bone  when  the  Hind  Quar- 

ter of  the  Animal  is  Hung 179 

16  Showing  Changed  Position  of  Muscles  when  Hind  Quarter  is 

Hung 179 

17  Side  of  Beef— Inside 181 

18  Side  of  Beef— New  York  Method  of  Cutting    ....  182 

19  Showing  Method  of  Cutting  Sirloin  Steaks      ....  184 

20  Hip-Bone  Steak 184 

zi 


xii  LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 

FIG.  PAGE 

21  Flat-Bone  Steak 185 

22  Round-Bone  Steak 185 

23  Short  or  "  Delmonico  "  Steak 185 

24  Side  op  Mutton,  Showing  Method  of  Cutting  .   .   .   .189 

25  Showing  Method  of  Carving  Sirloin  or  Porterhouse  Roast  .  206 

26  Showing  Method  of  Carving  Roast  Ribs  of  Beef   .   .   .  207 

27  Showing  Method  of  Carving  Round  of  Beef  ....  207 

28  Showing  Method  of  Carving  Leg  of  Mutton  ....  207 

29  Showing  Method  of  Carving  Saddle  of  Mutton    .   .   .  209 

30  Showing  Method  of  Carving  Fore  Quarter  of  Lamb   .   .  210 

31  Showing  Method  of  Carving  Breast  of  Veal  ....  210 

32  Showing  Method  of  Carving  a  Shoulder  of  Mutton    .   .  210 

33  Showing  Method  of  Carving  the  Under  Part  of  the  Shoulder  210 

34  Showing  Position  of  Shoulder-Bone 211 

35  Showing  Position  of  Muscles  in  Shoulder    .   .   .   .211 

36  Showing  Method  of  Carving  a  Ham 212 

37  Showing  Method  of  Carving  a  Tongue 212 

38  Showing  Method  of  Carving  Haunch  of  Venison  .   .   .  213 

39  Showing  Method  of  Carving  Roast  Pig 213 

40  Showing  Position  of  Divided  Roast  Pig  on  Platter  .   .   .  214 

41  Showing  Method  of  Carving  Turkey 214 

42  Showing  Method  of  Carving  Roast  Duck 218 

43  Showing  a  Second  Method  of  Carving  Roast  Duck  .   .   .  219 

44  Showing  Method  of  Carving  Small  Fish 220 

45  Showing  Method  of  Carving  Cod's  Head  and  Shoulder  .   .  220 

46  Showing  Method  of  Carving  Salmon,  etc 220 

47  Showing  Method  of  Carving  Flatfish 220 

48  Showing  how  the  Annual  Layers  are  Arranged  in  a  Log  of 

Wood 265 

49  Showing  Rift  and  Slash  in  a  Pine  Board 266 

50  Showing  the  Method  of  Cutting  a  Log 266 

51  Showing  Manner  of  Cutting  Carpet  for  Register    .       .       .  314 

52  Showing  Convenient  Clothes-Rack 340 


HOME  ECONOMICS 


HOME  ECONOMICS 

CHAPTER   I 

SOME  ESSENTIALS  OF  THE  HOME 

Selecting  the  house.  Size  and  style  of  the  house.  The  skeleton  and  circu- 
latory system  of  the  house.  The  situation  and  foundation  of  the  house. 
The  foundation- walls.  A  closet  for  preserves  and  similar  supplies.  Gen- 
eral plan  of  the  house.  The  kitchen  and  pantries.  Pantries.  Materials 
used  in  building.  The  interior  finish  of  the  house.  The  chimney  and  fur- 
nace-pipes.   The  plumbing.    Country  houses— drainage  and  earth-closets. 

THE  house  does  not  make  the  home,  but  it  has  a  great 
influence  on  the  health  and  character  of  the  inmates. 
When  one  lives  in  a  rented  house  it  is  not  possible  to 
control  all  the  conditions,  as  one  can  when  building  a  house; 
but  certainly  one  should  be  careful  to  select  a  home  in  a 
neighborhood  where  the  drainage  and  water  are  good,  and 
the  people  are  of  a  class  agreeable  to  know.  If  one  has  chil- 
dren, it  is  important  that  the  home  be  near  good  schools. 

SELECTING   THE  HOUSE 

When  hiring  a  house,  the  would-be  tenant  should  examine 
it  carefully  before  signing  a  lease.  Examine 

1.  Examine  the  outside— walls,  foundations,  ^t£°are 
underpinning  of  piazzas,  and  chimneys,  leaders  beforesign- 
and  water-pipes,  blinds  and  fastenings.  iug  lease. 

2.  Examine  the  cellar— floors,  walls,  and  woodwork.  Are 
they  damp  or  dry?   Is  there  any  odor?  Are  the  foundation- 

l 


HOME  -ECONOMICS 


walls  and  the  floors  in  good  condition?  Is  it  well  lighted? 
Are  the  bins  for  fuel  in  a  convenient  place,  and  are  they 
ample?  Is  the  furnace  in  good  condition?  Are  the  stairs 
secure  and  well  lighted? 

3.  Examine  the  plumbing.  What  is  the  condition  of 
pipes  and  faucets?  Are  the  flushing  appliances  wholly 
separated  from  the  general-supply  tank?  Is  the  plumbing 
properly  trapped?     Is  there  any  odor  from  it? 

4.  Examine  the  walls  to  see  that  there  are  no  breaks  in 
the  plaster  or  paper.  Remove  drawers  to  see  if  the  space 
back  of  them  is  plastered;  if  not,  stipulate  that  this  shall  be 
done.  Look  at  the  woodwork,  floors,  and  window-casings, 
looking  carefully  at  locks  and  catches  to  see  that  they  are 
in  good  condition.  Be  sure  that  the  house  has  such  an 
exposure  that  you  get  the  sun.  Better  have  fewer  conve- 
niences with  a  sunny  house  than  take  a  house  where  you  get 
little  or  no  sun,  even  though  with  the  latter  you  should  get 
finer  finish  and  more  conveniences. 

Being  satisfied  with  the  general  condition  of 
lease  *ne  house,  the  next  care  is  the  lease.  In  this 
is  satisfac-  should  be  stated  the  period  for  which  the  lease 
^gning"  runs>  tne  rent  to  De  Paic*,  the  condition  in  which 
the  house  comes  into  your  hands,  whether  land- 
lord or  tenant  makes  the  repairs, 'and,  if  the  tenant  makes 
any,  what  they  are  to  be.  The  water-tax  is  in  some  places 
paid  by  the  tenant,  and  in  other  localities  by  the  landlord; 
have  this  stated  in  the  lease. 

Before  having  the  gas  turned  on,  have  the  meter 
meter       examined,  that  you  may  not  have  to  pay  for  gas 
before  gas    that  your  predecessor  has  consumed, 
is  urne  j^  ajj  ^hese  things  are  strictly  attended  to  at 

the  proper  time,  they  may  save  you  a  world  of  an- 
noyance in  the  future. 

For  the  benefit  of  those  who  may  build  their  own  homes 
a  few  suggestions  are  given.    There  is  no  intention  of  hav- 


SOME  ESSENTIALS  OF  THE  HOME  3 

ing  these  suggestions  take  the  place  of  an  architect;  but  it 
is  hoped  that  they  will  be  a  help  to  the  would-be  builder,-  in 
seeing  more  clearly  than  he  otherwise  would  what  are  the 
essential  and  what  the  secondary  considerations  in  the  foun- 
dation and  structure  of  a  house. 

SIZE  AND  STYLE  OF  THE  HOUSE 

In  planning  a  building,  its  special  uses  must  be  considered. 
The  house  intended  for  a  home  should  be  made  as  conve- 
nient, sanitary,  and  attractive  as  possible.     The 
style  of  the  house  depends  upon  the  location.    The    0f  locatwn 
house  built  in  the  city  or  suburbs  would,  of  course,    upon  style 
be  quite  different  from  that  built  in  the  open  coun-       no£g® 
try.     The  amount  of  money  one  is  able  to  devote 
to  the  building  of  the  home  must  largely  decide  questions 
of  size,  architecture,  etc. 

The  simpler  the  style  of  architecture,  if  the  lines  are 
good,  the  more  pleasing  the  effect  will  be. 

Sleeping-rooms  should  never  be  planned  on  the  first  floor. 

Even  in  the  smallest  and  cheapest  houses  there  should 
invariably  be  a  chamber,  or  open  space,  between  the  roof 
and  the  story  below  it.  Rooms  with  no  intermediate  space 
between  them  and  the  roof  are  apt  to  be  very  much  like 
ovens  in  the  hot  weather  of  summer. 

Small  houses  built  with  low,  broken  roof -lines  are  pictur- 
esque, but  the  sleeping-rooms  are  not  likely  to  be  comfortable. 
Roofs  built  in  such  a  style,  besides  being  more  expensive 
at  the  start,  are  more  apt  to  leak  than  the  plainer  ones. 

A  house  built  with  thick  walls  will  be  cool  in 
summer  and  warm  in  winter.  ^f  thick* 

Every  human  being  is  entitled  to  some  space       waiii. 
where  he  can  have  absolute  privacy  for  a  few  hours 
each  day.     Houses  should  be  planned  to  give  each  person  a 
separate  sleeping-room.     It  is  better  to  have  fewer  parlors 
and  more  bedrooms. 


4  HOME    ECONOMICS 

The  finish  of  the  walls,  ceilings,  floors,  and  all 
waSaand  woodwork  in  the  house  should  be  as  simple  as 
woodwork,  possible;  then  there  will  be  fewer  places  for  dust 
to  lodge  and  less  chance  for  disease-germs  to  de- 
velop, the  expense  of  building  will  be  lessened,  and  the  work 
of  the  housekeeper  simplified. 

THE  SKELETON   AND   CIRCULATORY   SYSTEM   OF   THE  HOUSE 

A  modern  house  might  be  likened  to  an  animal  organism, 
the  framework  being  the  skeleton,  and  the  plumbing,  flues, 
heating-pipes,  etc.,  being  the  circulatory  system. 

If  this  part  of  the  house  is  carefully  outlined  before  any 

work  is  done,  it  will  save  much  time,  labor,  and  expense  in 

the  construction  of  the  building.     What  is  of 

tanceofout-  st^  greater  consequence,  every  pipe,  flue,  and 

lining  wire  will  be  placed  in  the  right  position  and  will 
"system.17  be  surrounded  and  supported  by  the  proper  ma- 
terial. There  will  be  no  tearing  out  of  masonry 
here,  or  cutting  of  floors  and  walls  there— a  process  of 
remedying  mistakes  that  often  means  that  heating-pipes 
are  placed  in  too  close  contact  to  woodwork,  and  that  the 
spaces  around  plumbing  are  not  properly  finished. 

When  there  is  a  clear  mental  picture  of  the  completed 
house,  it  will  be  possible  to  dissect  it  and  leave  bare  the 
skeleton  and  circulatory  system.  Two  sets  of  plans  should 
then  be  made,  one  for  the  framework,  piping,  and  wiring, 
and  the  other  for  the  completed  building. 

Having  decided  upon  the  whole  amount  of 
tive^cost  of  money  to  be  expended  upon  the  house,  allow  a 
foundation,  generous  portion  for  the  foundation,  frame,  chim- 
P  "etfc'  neys>  Plumbing,  heating,  and  ventilating.  Do  this 
even  if  the  finish  must  be  very  plain  in  conse- 
quence. No  beauty  of  finish  will  compensate  for  a  poor 
foundation,  shaky  frame,  and  unsanitary  plumbing  and  heat- 
ing arrangements. 


SOME  ESSENTIALS  OF  THE  HOME 


Foundation-walls 


Cellar 


Make  the  skeleton  plan  somewhat  in  this  style: 

'Material. 

Depth  below  the  ground. 

Height  above  the  ground. 

Breadth. 

Openings  for  windows,  doors,  etc. 

JVentilating-pipes,  cold-air  box,  etc. 

/Bottom,  subsoil,  drain,  kind  of  floor. 
Connections  with  gas-pipes. 

"    water-pipes. 

"    sewer-pipes. 
Cold  room. 
Fuel-bins. 
Furnace. 

Closet  for  preserves,  etc. 
Laundry,  water-closet  (if  there  is  one). 
Foundation  for  chimneys. 

Chimneys — openings. 

Position  for  pipes  from  furnace  or  other 

heating  appliances. 
Position  for  water-pipes. 

"   waste-  or  soil-pipes. 
"   ventilators. 
"    bell-wires. 
"   windows. 
"   doors. 
"    stairs. 
"        "   closets. 
Follow  this  plan  for  the  other  floors. 


First  floor 


THE   SITUATION   AND   FOUNDATION   OF   THE   HOUSE 

When  deciding  to  build  a  house,  the  first  consideration 
should  be  its  situation  with  respect  to  the  influence  on  the 
health  of  the  family. 


b  HOME   ECONOMICS 

The  second  consideration  may  be  the  character  of  tne 
neighborhood,  and  convenience  to  business  and  other  inter- 
ests and  pleasures. 

Light,  sunshine,  pure  air,  and  dryness  are  the  most  im- 
portant factors  in  maintaining  the  healthful  condition  of 
the  house,  and  they  should  be  supplied  in  abundance. 

Dampness,  coming  from  the  soil  under  or  sur- 
DheShto    roundmg  tne  house,  is  a  source  of  danger,  giving 
from  soil,     rise  to  consumption,  rheumatism,  malaria,  and  kin- 
dred maladies. 

The  nature  of  the  soil  on  which  a  house  is  built  is  a  most 

important  question.     The  purest  soil  consists  almost  wholly 

of  mineral  matter  intermixed  with  air  and  water. 

Vegetable  matter  and  animal  matter  are  fre- 

C°which1S    (luen^y  mingled  with  the  soil.     Warmth  and  mois- 

causefor-    ture  produce  decomposition  in  animal  and  vege- 

mation  of    table  substances,  and  during  the  process  of  de- 
noxious 
gases.       composition  noxious  gases  are  given  off.     These 

gases  circulate  through  the  porous   earth,  and 

when  warmed  rise,  and,  mingling  with  the  air,  are  taken 

into  the  system  with  every  breath  we  draw. 

These  poisonous  gases  are  diluted  with  pure  air,  and 
therefore  work  so  slowly  in  the  system  that  we  do  not  realize 
the  damage  that  is  being  done  until  illness  develops.  Even 
then  we  are  ready  to  attribute  the  cause  to  anything  rather 
than  to  the  dampness  and  poisonous  gases  that  come  from 
cellars,  drains,  cesspools,  swampy  land,  and  decaying  animal 
and  vegetable  substances  in  and  about  our  habitations. 

If  the  earth  under  the  house  is  damp  and  filled  with 
noxious  gases,  they  will  naturally  rise  and  permeate  the 
whole  house,  floors,  doors,  and  walls  being  no 
ofoellam     protection  against  them. 

All  cellars  built  on  clay  soil  should  be  drained. 
The  best  method  of  doing  this  is  to  dig  a  trench,  slanted 
slightly,  in  which  earthen  pipes,  properly  joined,  should  be 


SOME  ESSENTIALS  OP  THE  HOME  7 

laid.    These  pipes  must  be  covered  with  at  least  two  feet 
of  clay,  well  packed. 

The  floor  of  the  cellar  should  be  constructed  with  the 
utmost  care.     No  matter  what  the  soil  under  the  floor  may 
be,  there  is  always  danger  from  the  gases  which 
will  circulate  through  it.     The  covering  of  the     0f  cellar' 
floor  should  be  of  some  substance  that  will  effectu- 
ally obstruct  the  passage  of  the  gases  rising  from  the  subsoil. 

Many  of  the  best  authorities  on  sanitary  questions  are  of 
the  opinion  that  a  thick  bed  of  clay,  well  packed,  is  the  very 
best  material  for  a  cellar  floor.  The  one  objection  to  this 
is  that  the  clay,  adhering  to  the  shoes  of  every  one  who 
walks  over  it,  is  likely  to  be  carried  into  other  parts  of  the 
house.  For  this  reason  it  is  well  to  have  the  clay  floor 
covered  with  a  layer  of  cement. 

With  the  subdrain  and  the  clay  floor  under  the  cement, 
the  cellar  should  be  dry  and  sweet,  and,  as  a  consequence, 
the  whole  house  will  be  in  a  good  sanitary  condition. 

THE   FOUNDATION-WALLS 

Next  in  importance  to  the  soil  on  which  the  house  is  built, 
and  the  drainage,  come  the  foundation-walls  of  the  house. 
They  should  be  so  built  that  there  will  be  no  danger  of 
settling  because  of  the  instability  of  the  ground.  The 
foundation  itself  must  be  constructed  in  such  a  manner  that 
there  may  be  no  possibility  of  dampness  being  drawn  into 
the  walls.  The  subdrain  already  described  will 
take  away  the  greater  part  of  the  moisture  from  thefouSL 
the  soil.  tionfor 

A  deep,  broad  trench  should  be  dug  for  the       c^l 
cellar  walls.    The  bottom  of  this  should  be  packed 
with  a  thick  bed  of  clay,  as  was  suggested  in  making  the 
cellar  floor.    Over  this  should  be  put  a  layer  of  coarse  broken 
stone,  the  spaces  between  the  fragments  being  filled  with 


8  HOME  ECONOMICS 

crushed  stone.  The  whole  surface  should  be  made  even,  and 
finally  covered  with  mortar  and  cement.  This  foundation 
will  give  a  solid  support  for  the  walls  of  the  cellar. 

All  cellar  walls  should  be  thick.  This  is  essential  for 
the  proper  support  of  the  house,  and,  in  addition,  keeps  out 
heat  in  summer  and  frost  in  winter.  In  building  the  cellar 
walls,  every  precaution  should  be  taken  to  make  them  im- 
pervious to  moisture. 

j.  .  .  The  height  of  the  walls  above  the  ground  is 

andventi-    important.     They  should  extend  a  sufficient  dis- 
lation  of     tance  above  ground  to  admit  of  windows  at  least 
two  and  a  half  feet  high.     This  will  insure  the 
thorough  lighting  and  ventilation  of  the  cellar,  and  the 
raising  of  the  first  floor  at  least  three  feet  from  the  ground. 
(Note.— In  some  parts  of  the  country,  as  in  a  number  of 
the  Southern  States,  for  instance,  the  land  is  so  low  that 
cellars  are  out  of  the  question.     In  such  cases  the  founda- 
tion-timbers of  the  house  rest  upon  brick  or  stone  piers. 
The  supports  are  far  enough  apart  to  allow  thorough  venti- 
lation under  the  house.) 

There  should  be  cellar  windows  on  all  sides  of 

sunshine  if   the  nouse>  if  the  house  is  detached.     If  it  is  in  a 

possible,     block,  of  course  these  windows  are  limited  to  two 

sides  only.     Piazzas  should  not  be  placed  in  such 

a  position  as  to  exclude  all  sun  from  the  cellar. 

The  more  smoothly  and  completely  the  walls  and  ceilings 
of  the  cellar  are  finished,  the  easier  they  will  be  to  keep 
clean.    The  ceilings  should  be  lathed  and  plastered. 

The  uses  to  which  the  cellar  is  put  depend  upon 
cellar.       the  locality  in  which  one  lives  and  the  manner  of 
living.     In  town  houses  the  fuel  is  usually  kept 
here.     In  many  country  houses  all  the  fuel,  except  the  fur- 
nace coal,  is  kept  in  sheds  on  the  ground  floor. 

When  the  fuel  is  kept  in  the  cellar,  it  should  be  stored 
in  bins  placed  as  near  as  possible  to  the  point  of  consump- 


SOME  ESSENTIALS  OF  THE  HOME  9 

tion.     For  example,  the  furnace  coal  should  be  as  near  as 
possible  to  the  furnace,  and  the  range  and  grate  coal  near 
the  stairs.     Bins  should  be  large  enough  to  con- 
tain the  full  yearly  supply  of  coal,  and  they  should      Jl*0*11! 
be  dry  and  well  lighted.  fuel. 

Every  cellar  in  which  there  is  a  furnace  should 
have  a  cold  room  partitioned  off  from  the  main  room. 

A  good  plan  for  the  cold  room  is  as  follows:  Take  one 
corner  of  the  cellar  in  which  there  is  a  window  (two  windows 
would  be  still  better);  a  northeast  or  northwest 
corner  is  most  desirable  for  this  room.  Inclose  room 
a  square  with  walls  of  masonry,  leaving  a  gen- 
erous opening  for  the  door  and  a  small  space  for  a  window 
which  may  be  opened  and  closed  at  will.  Divide  this  room 
into  two  parts,  using  well-joined  boards  or  masonry  for  the 
wall,  and  again  leaving  generous  space  for  a  door.  In  any 
case,  have  strong  supports  of  some  kind  on  which  broad  slate 
shelves  may  rest.  If  the  walls  are  of  masonry,  narrow  ledges 
of  stone  or  brick  may  be  arranged  to  project  from  them. 
If  wood  has  been  used,  broad,  smooth,  wooden  cleats  may 
be  fastened  to  the  walls.  In  the  inner  room  a  strong  piece 
of  joisting  should  be  fastened  firmly  across  the  room  and 
about  two  feet  from  the  ceiling.  Several  large  meat-hooks 
may  be  driven  into  this  joist,  on  which  may  be  hung  joints 
of  meat,  hams,  poultry,  etc.  This  inner  room  may  be  used 
for  storing  meats,  fish,  fruits,  vegetables,  and  all  foods  that 
have  an  odor. 

In  the  outer  cold  room  milk,  butter,  and  inodorous  foods 
may  be  kept.  These  cold  rooms  should  be  placed  as  near 
as  possible  to  the  cellar  stairs;  if  the  whole  length  of  the 
cellar  must  be  traversed  to  get  to  them,  they  will  not  be  used 
as  freely  as  they  should. 

The  windows  of  these  rooms  should  be  supplied  with 
screens  of  thin  cheese-cloth  to  keep  out  all  particles  of  dust; 
these  would  be  in  addition  to  the  coarse-  and  fine-wire 


10 


HOME   ECONOMICS 


Fig.  i. 
A,  first  room;  B,  inner  room;  C,  door  into  cellar;  D,  door 
connecting-  the  two  rooms;  S,  S,  S,  windows;  E,  joist  with 
meat-hooks;  F,  table;  G,  shelves. 


screens  with  which  all  the  cellar  windows  should  be  pro- 
tected against  thieves,  flies,  and  small  animals. 

Each  room  should 
have,  besides  the  win- 
dows, a  small  opening 
through  the  outer  wall, 
screened  with  fine  wire, 
and  covered  with  fine 
cheese-cloth.  This  will 
insure  ventilation  in  cold 
weather  when  the  win- 
dows are  closed.  The 
doors  of  both  rooms 
should  be  wide  enough  to  admit  a  large  barrel  with  ease. 

A   CLOSET   FOR   PRESERVES   AND   SIMILAR   SUPPLIES 

Another  useful  contrivance  in  the  furnace-heated  house 
is  a  closet  for  storing  preserves  and  other  articles  that 
should  not  be  kept  in  a  hot  cellar,  nor  yet  in  a  room  where 
there  is  danger  of  freezing. 

This  closet  may  be  built  of  wood  and  placed  in  any  part 
of  the  cellar.  It  should  be  well  made,  and  fitted  with  broad, 
smooth  shelves  that  may  be  cleaned  with  ease. 

GENERAL  PLAN  OF  THE  HOUSE 


A  skeleton  somewhat  like  the  following  one  will  save 
changes,  expense,  and  annoyance: 

1.  Cost. 

2.  Area  of  first  floor. 

3.  Rooms  and  closets  on  first  floor. 

4.  Rooms  and  closets  on  second  floor. 
Number  of  attic  rooms,  if  any,  and  their  ar* 


Outline  of 

what  is 

needed  in 

the  house. 


rangement  and  finish. 


SOME  ESSENTIALS  OF  THE  HOME  11 

6.  Amount  of  plumbing,  and  its  location. 

7.  Number  of  chimneys,  and  their  location. 

8.  Number  of  open  fireplaces. 

9.  Plan  for  stairs.  (They  should  be  broad  and  easy,  and 
the  back  stairs  should  be  free  from  turns.) 

10.  Arrangement  of  the  rooms  on  all  the  floors.  (This 
should  be  planned  so  that  those  used  most  shall      « 

Rooms 

have  the  best  exposure  to  the  sun.     Halls  should 

be  arranged  so  that  they  may  not  be  simply  passageways,  but 

healthful  and  cheerful  meeting-places.) 

11.  Location  of  windows,  doors,  and  closets.  (These 
should  be  planned,  after  the  location  of  the  rooms  is  fixed, 
so  that  they  may  give  the  greatest  amount  of 

light,  sunshine,  and  air.)  doo»°and 

Doors  and  closets  should  be  so  placed  that  they      closets, 
will  break  up  the  wall-space  as  little  as  possible. 

Ample  space  should  be  allowed  in  bedrooms  for  bed, 
dressing-case,  and  large  wash-stand— for  it  is  to  be  hoped 
that  in  our  sanitary  house  there  will  be  no  set  basins  in  the 
sleeping-rooms. 

Plan  to  have  all  the  rooms  and  the  hall  on  the  lower  floor 
connect. 

The  library  should  be  well  lighted  and  have  ample  wall- 
space  for  bookcases.     It  is  a  good  arrangement 
to  have  a  window  on  one  side  of  the  room  above     inSb^y, 
the  low  bookcases,  the  greatest  length  of  this 
window  extending  horizontally.     The  glass  should  be  of  a 
soft,  warm  color.     The  light  coming  through  glass  tinted  a 

deep  yellow  is  almost  like  sunlight,  very  much 

»,         -,  Corner 

softened.  closet  and 

The  dining-room  should  be  one  of  the  most     sideboard 
cheerful  rooms  in  the  house.      In  building,  the     ^room. 
cost  of  putting  in  corner  closets  and  a  simple 
sideboard  will  not  be  great,  if  one  is  satisfied  with  plain, 
substantial  work.     The  arrangement  of  bits  of  china  and 


12  HOME  ECONOMICS 

glass  in  these  will  be  sufficient  decoration.  Of  course,  if 
one  is  building  a  handsome  house,  and  has  the  means  to 
spend  on  fine  carvings,  the  dining-room  and  library  are  the 
rooms  where  such  work  is  appropriate  and  satisfactory.  A 
bay-window  in  the  dining-room  will  admit  of  a  few  plants— 
the  most  attractive  thing  one  can  have  in  this  room. 

Let  the  vestibule  and  entrance-hall  be  as  spacious  as  your 

means  will  permit.     The  hall  gives  character  to  the  house. 

Nothing  in  make-up  and  finish  of  any  other  part 

Vestibule     of  the  house  can  atone  for  a  cramped  and  badly 

entrance-     lighted  hall.     Somewhere  on  the  first  floor  there 

hall.  should  be  a  closet  for  wraps,  umbrellas,  overshoes, 
etc.  With  such  a  place  for  putting  away  the 
outdoor  garments,  it  is  possible  to  make  the  hall  a  pleasant 
reception-room. 

The  staircase,  wherever  placed,  should  be  broad  and  easy 

to  mount,  with  at  least  two  wide  landings  to  break  its 

length.     The  back  staircase  should  be  built  for 

staircases    j^s  pr0per  use— the  passing  up  and  down  for  the 

front.       performance  of  the  regular  work  of  the  house, 

and  for  carrying  furniture,  baggage,  etc.,  from 

one  floor  to  another.     For  these  purposes  the  stairs  should 

be  straight,  of  an  easy  incline,  and  well  lighted.     As  a  rule 

the  reverse  is  the  case. 

THE  KITCHEN  AND   PANTRIES 

Last,  but  not  least,  plan  carefully  for  the  kitchen  and 
pantries.  The  kitchen  should  be  large  enough  to  be  com- 
fortable as  to  temperature  and  ventilation.  Arrange  it  so 
that  nearly  all  the  work  of  cooking,  dish-washing,  etc.,  may 
be  done  within  an  area  of  one  hundred  square  feet.  A 
rough  plan  is  given  here  of  kitchen,  pantries,  back  hall,  and 
stairs,  that  may  be  suggestive  of  the  method  of  connecting 
the  different  points  of  work  closely  and  systematically.     (See 


SOME  ESSENTIALS  OF  THE   HOME 


13 


Fig.  No.  2.)  The  kitchen  should  not  be  so  large  as  to 
make  the  work  of  keeping  it  clean  a  burden,  nor  so  small 
that  it  cannot  be  well  ventilated  and  kept  fairly  cool. 

If  the  plan  given  is  followed,  all  the  work  of  cooking, 
serving,  and  dish-washing  can  be  confined  to  a  small  portion 
of  the  kitchen.  At  the  same  time  the  room  is  sufficiently 
large  to  insure  a  comfortable  at- 
mosphere, and  there  will  always  be 
a  clear,  orderly  space,  which  will  be 
a  comfort  and  convenience  when 
extra  work  is  to  be  done. 

The   woodwork    in   the    kitchen 
should  be  very  plain 
and  it  should  be  fin- 
ished in  oil.     There 
should  be  no  grooves 
to  hold  dust  or  mois- 
ture.  The  walls  may 
be  painted,  or  they 
may  be  covered  with 
one  of  the   papers 
that  can 
be  wash- 
ed.When 
one    can 
afford  it, 

tiling  IS  H,  kitchen;  A.  B,  china-closet  and  pantry;  C,  cold  pantry;  D,  back  hall;  E,  F, 
.  ,  ,    closets  for  cleaning-appliances  and  out-door  garments;  I,  gas-range;  I,  coal-range; 

tUe    mOSt  K>  sink:  L-  draining-board;  M,  table;  N,  dresser;  O,  table;  P,  chest  of  drawers  with 
shelf  above  for  clock,  etc.;  Q,  back  stairs;  R,  cellar  stairs;  S,  S,  S,  S,  S,  windows;  U, 
Satisf  aC-  door  into  front  naN;  v>  door  into  back  hall. 

tory  finish  for  the  lower  part  of  the  walls,  say  for  a  space 

of  from  four  to  six  feet.     This  is  an  expensive  finish  at  the 

beginning;  but  when  it  is  remembered  that  the 

first  cost  is  the  only  outlay,  and  that  the  tiles  will       waUs°r 

last  as  long  as  the  house  stands,  it  will  be  seen 

that  they  are  not  an  extravagant  investment.    The  blue-and- 


14  HOME  ECONOMICS 

white  glazed  Dutch  tiles  are  especially  adapted  for  a  kitchen. 

Yellow  tiles  will  give  a  warm  tone,  and  when  the  kitchen  is 

on  the  north  side,  or  not  well  lighted,  as  is  the  case  in  many 

houses  in  city  blocks,  this  color  is  advisable. 

The  floors  of  kitchens,  pantries,  back  halls,  and  stairs 

should  be  of  hard  wood,  finished  in  oil,  or  stained 

oors'       and  varnished.    Such  floors  are  easy  to  keep  clean, 

and  there  is  no  temptation  to  water-soak  them. 

The  kitchen  windows  should  be  large,  and  should  lower 

from  the  top  with  ease.     The  screens  should  be 

Windows.     made  to  cover  the  entire  window.     There  ought 

to  be  a  flue  in  the  chimney  to  carry  off  gases  and  odors. 

A  generous  sink  and  ample  table-room  save  much  break- 
age and  lighten  the  labor  in  the  kitchen.     The  sink  should 
be  broad,  and  the  water-faucets  should  be  set 
well  up  and  back.     From  my  own  observation,  it 
seems  as  if  the  greater  part  of  the  breaking  and  nicking  of 
dishes  is  done  by  striking  the  articles  against  the  water- 
faucets.     In  a  narrow  sink  the  breakage  is  much 
ofdishls?     greater  than  in  a  broad  one.     When  it  is  possi- 
ble to  avoid  it,  the  kitchen  sink  should  not  be 
made  of  wood.     Those  made  of  soapstone,  and  other  kinds 
of  stone,  are  excellent.     Iron  sinks  are  good,  except  that 
they  rust  easily.     If  wooden  sinks  must  be  used,  they  should 
be  lined  with  zinc  or  some  other  metallic  substance.     The 
porcelain-lined  sinks  are  sanitary  and  easily  cared  for.    The 
sink  should  never  be  inclosed.    The  waste  pipe  should  be 
covered  with  .a  fairly  fine  strainer,  which  should  be  kept 
screwed  securely  in  place. 

Every  sink  should  have  at  one   end  a  long 

shelved"    draining-shelf .     This  shelf  should  be  well  grooved 

and  inclined  slightly  toward  the  sink.     If  there 

is  space  to  allow  it,  have  a  broad  shelf  or  table  at  the  otljer 

end.    A  low  movable  table  may  be  kept  under  this. 

In  planning  the  kitchen,  leave  space  for  a  gas-stove  near 


SOME  ESSENTIALS   OF  THE   HOME 


15 


the  range.  A  small  opening  should  be  made  in  the  chimney 
for  connecting  the  gas-stove  with  a  pipe  which  carries  off 
the  products  of  combustion. 


PANTRIES 


A  great  economy  of  time,  strength,  and  materials  is 
gained  by  having  ample  and  well-arranged  pantries.     To 
prevent  sounds  and  odors  reaching  the  dining- 
room  from  the  kitchen,  the  communication  be-     Gantries 
tween  these  two  rooms  should  be  through  several      closets, 
doors.     The  plan  of  pantry  and  china-closet  given 
below  will  be  found  to  combine  convenience  for  work  and 
protection       against 
odors     and     sounds. 

Opening  from  the 
dining-room  is  the 
china-closet.  Here 
are  kept  the  fine  china 
and  glass,  the  table- 
ware and  silver  in 
daily  use,  and  any 
table  appliances  one 
may  wish  to  have 
convenient  to  the 
dining-room.  This 
pantry  is  lighted  and 
aired  by  a  small  win- 
dow. 

Connecting  this  pantry  with  the  kitchen,  and  opening 
from  it,  is  another  pantry,  which  is  a  little  larger  than  the 
first,  which  contains  drawers,  closets,  and  shelves  for  dishes 
and  such  supplies  as  crackers,  sugar,  vinegar,  oil,  and  salt, 
which  one  likes  to  have  near  the  dining-room.  Here  the 
tableware  that  must  be  taken  into  the  kitchen  may  be  kept. 


-                 A                   0 

S 

»       1   / .  bd * 

c 

B                     4 

N             \       £    J            M 

«/ 

■mJm 

Fig-  3- 

A,  china-closet;  B,  pantry;  C,  door  into  kitchen;  D,  door 
between  china-closet  and  pantry;  E,  door  into  dining-room; 
F,  sink;  G,  table  with  shelves  above;  H,  broad  shelves  with 
closets  above  and  below;  I,  draining-board;  J,  J,  drawers 
with  closets  above;  K;  broad  shelves  with  closets  above  and 
below;  L,  drawers  with  shelves  above;  M,  broad  shelf  with 
closets  below  and  shelves  above;  N,  drawers  with  closets 
above;  S,  S,  windows. 


16 


HOME   ECONOMICS 


F«&-  4- 
C,  cold  pantry;  O,  refrigerator-opening  for  ice;  P,  P,  P,  shelves; 

8,  table;  K;  shelves  with  drawers  below;  S,  window;  T,  T,  locked 
osets. 


A  sink  with  hot  and  cold  water  is  provided  for  the  care  of 
the  finest  tableware,  and  there  is  a  large  stationary  table  which 
will  be  found  indispensable  in  the  table  service,  dish- 
washing, and  arrangement 
of  cold  dishes.  This  room 
is  lighted  and  ventilated 
by  a  window. 

At  the  other  side  of  the 
kitchen  is  a  cold  pantry  ((7), 
r—     where  the  groceries 
and  cooked  food  may 
be  stored.     A  plan  of 
this  is  given  below. 
A  closet  where  the  brooms,  brushes,  and  all  appliances 
for  cleaning  the  house  may  be  kept  is  a  necessity. 

This  closet  should  have  one  or  two  broad  shelves  on  which 
to  place  the  articles  used  in  cleaning,  and  the  cloths  for 
covering  furniture 
and  pictures  when 
sweeping,  etc.  There 
should  be  two  rows 
of  hooks,  one  above 
the  other,  on  which 
to  hang  brushes, 
brooms,  etc.  (E)  Fig- 
ure 5  shows  the  ar- 
rangement of  such 
a  closet.     Next  it  is  Fi&.  s. 

shown  another  closet  ^St^JS^SffS^SS^JiSSS.  tTvfMKS 
(F),  where  wraps  for  z'  umbrella-stand- 

every-day  use,  overshoes,  umbrellas,  etc.,  may  be  kept. 
A  dresser  is  almost  a  necessity  in  the  kitchen.  It  is  cer- 
tainly a  most  convenient  and  pleasant  arrangement,  and 
well  merits  its  name  "  dresser,"  for  it  is  an  adornment  as 
well  as  a  most  useful  piece  of  furniture. 


SOME   ESSENTIALS   OF   THE   HOME 


17 


The  dresser  should  be  made  of  the  same  kind  of  wood  as 
that  in  which  the  kitchen  is  finished.  It  should  be  long 
enough. to  divide  into  several  parts.  The  following  plan 
may  be  modified  to  suit  varying  tastes  and  needs.  The 
height  of  the  one  suggested  in  the  diagram  is  about  eight 
feet;  length,  six  feet; 
depth  of  bottom  closet, 
twenty  inches;  depth  of 
upper  closet,  fourteen 
inches. 

Between  the  upper 
and  lower  closets  have 
two  drawers,  and  slid- 
ing shelves  between  the 
drawers  and  broad  shelf. 
A  is  the  sliding  shelf,  B 
the  broad  shelf,  C  the 
drawer. 

The  shelves  in  the 
upper  closet  should  be 
grooved,  so  that  dishes 
and  plates  may  be  stood 
on  end  upon  them. 
Close  the  closet  with 
sliding    glass    doors. 

If  the  kitchen  is  so  arranged  that  there  is  no  place  for 
such  a  dresser,  one  may  have,  at  least,  a  corner  cupboard. 
Cut  No.  7  gives  a  plan  for  another  kind  of  dresser,  which 
supplies  more  close  cupboards  and  drawers. 


Fig.  6. 


MATERIALS   USED   IN   BUILDING 

Naturally,  the  most  durable  building-materials  are  stone 
and  brick,  but  owing  to  the  expense  of  these  materials 
and  the  cost  of  handling  them,  wood  is  generally  used  for 


18 


HOME  ECONOMICS 


Bricks. 


houses  of  moderate  price  built  in  suburbs  and   country 
places. 

Whatever  the  material  employed,  it  should  be  of  such 
quality  and  treated  in  such  a  manner  as  to  prevent  the  walls 
from  absorbing  or  retaining  dampness.  Bricks  absorb 
moisture  readily.  This  is  particularly  true  of  a 
poor  quality  of  brick.  Therefore,  when  bricks  are 
used  for  the  outer  walls  of  a  house,  only  those  of  the  best 
grade  should  be  employed,  and  the  finished  walls  should  be 

made  impervious  to 
moisture  by  a  coat 
of  good  paint. 

If  wood  is  the  ma- 
terial   used    in    the 
structure,  it  should  be 
thoroughly    seasoned 
(see    "Woods")    and 
free    from    sap  wood. 
Every  piece  that  is 
exposed  to  wind  and 
rain  should   be   pro- 
tected by  paint,  oil, 
or   some    wood    pre- 
servative.    In  the  in- 
terior of  the  house  all 
the  wood  finish  should 
be  protected  by  var- 
nish, oil,  wax,  or  paint. 
Wood  that  is  used  on  the  outside  of  the  house  should  be 
put  on  so  that  water  cannot  lodge  in  or  under  it.     It  often 
happens  that  rain-  and  snow-water  work  their  way 
S*deoa       under  shingles  and  clapboards,  the  flooring  of 
in  wood,     piazzas  or  steps,  and  in  a  short  time  cause  the 
wood  to  decay.     This  decay  is  contagious,  and 
in  time  large  patches  of  roof,  flooring,  or  joists  are  destroyed. 


Fig.  7. 


SOME  ESSENTIALS  OF  THE  HOME  19 

The  best  material  and  good  workmanship  will  almost  insure 
against  this  kind  of  loss  and  annoyance. 

Any  woodwork  that  comes  near  the  soil,  such  as  steps,  piaz- 
zas, etc.,  should  be  constructed  in  such  a  way  that  thorough 
ventilation  between  the  woodwork  and  the  earth  is  assured. 

The  laying  and  finish  of  the  floors  of  the  house  is  particu- 
larly  important.     The  wood   for   this  purpose 
should  be  perfectly  seasoned,  and  the  boards  so    The  laying 
well  matched  that   neither  dust  nor  water  can     filing 
pass   through   the   joinings.      They  should   be      of  floors, 
wholly  of  rift  wood,  if  quartered  wood  is  not 
used  (I  am  not  speaking  now  of  inlaid  or  parquetry  floors). 

All  floors  that  are  not  to  be  covered  with  carpets  or 
matting  should  be  finished  in  such  a  manner  that  they  will 
be  pleasant  to  look  upon  and  easy  to  care  for.  (See 
"Woods,"  "Rift,"  and  "Slash.") 

A  badly  finished  floor  is  a  continual  source  of  annoyance, 
while,  on  the  other  hand,  the  plainest  floor  of  thoroughly 
seasoned  and  matched  boards,  properly  cared  for 
and  well  finished,  will  be  a  joy  forever.  ^dow* 

Doors  and  window-sashes  should  be  substantially      sashes, 
and  carefully  made,  and  of  the  best-seasoned  wood. 

The  leaders  and  water-pipes  used  on  the  outside  of  the 
house  should,  in  cold  climates,  be  made  so  that  they  will  not 
be  injured  readily  by  ice.     Corrugated  pipes, 
when  water  freezes  in  them,  do  not  burst  as    J^aetresr_ 
easily  as  smooth  ones.  pipes. 

As  to  the  painting,  it  should  be  borne  in  mind 
that  durability  is  attained  in  proportion  to  the  amount  of 
lead  used.     For  this  reason  white,  red,  and  drab  paints 
are  the  best,  as  a  great  deal  of  lead  may  be 
employed  in  mixing  them.     The  surface  should  be     ^^J? 
perfectly  dry  before  paint  is  applied.    If  the  paint     of  house, 
is  laid  on  a  damp  surface,  it  will  blister  and  come 
off  in  flakes.    The  most  suitable  time  for  painting  the  out- 


20  HOME  ECONOMICS 

side  of  a  house  is  in  the  autumn,  when  the  weather  is  clear 

and  cold. 

If  the  finish  of  the  woodwork  of  the  interior  of  the  house 

is  in  the  natural  wood,  it  should,  when  possible,  be  rubbed 

smooth  with  sandpaper  before  being  oiled  or  var- 

Finishing     nished.     If  it  is  varnished,  several  coats  should 

of  interior 

woodwork,    be  applied,  each  coat  being  rubbed  down.     All 

of  these   details  add  to  the  first  expense;  but 

they  will  pay  in  the  end,  because  of  the  gain  in  beauty  and 

durability. 

The  wood  used  in  all  kinds  of  closets  should  be  free  from 

pitch,  and,  if  painted  or  varnished,  so  well  done  that  there 

shall  be  no  danger  of  articles  sticking  to  it.     Never  oil  the 

woodwork  in  closets. 

THE  INTERIOR  FINISH  OF  THE  HOUSE 

So  much  depends  upon  the  location,  the  style  of  house, 

furnishing,  and  mode  of  living,  that  a  few  suggestions  are 

all  that  can  be  given  on  this  subject. 

The  interior  finish  of  the  house  should  be  in  harmony 

with  the  location,  style,  and  furnishing.     If  the  house  is 

exposed  to  strong  light  and  sunshine,  the  finish 

^nish*     snould  be  soft  in  tone,  and  free  from  strong  or 

shouidhar-    pronounced  colors.     On  the  other  hand,  in  a  city 

monize      block  the  light  and  sunshine  do  not  come  into  all 
witli  loca-  /•j.ii 

tion,  etc.     parts  oi  the  house  either  abundantly  or  strongly. 

In  such  a  house  the  finish  should  be  of  a  kind 
that  will  reflect  warmth  and  light,  not  absorb   it.     For 

somber,  sunless  rooms  and  halls  the  floors,  walls, 

Lightness    ceilings,  and  woodwork  should  be  as  light  and 

warmth  of    warm  in  tone  as  possible.      Yellow  tones  light 

color.       up  a  room  and  give  a  sense  of  warmth.      Red 

gives  a  sense  of  warmth,  but  does  not  brighten 
a  room  as  yellow  does.    All  shades  of  green  are  cold,  but 


SOME  ESSENTIALS   OF  THE  HOME  21 

the  lighter  they  are  the  cooler  the  effect  will  be.  Blue  is 
also  cold,  but  less  so  than  green.  Browns  are  somewhat 
neutral,  but  give  an  impression  of  warmth  rather  than  cold. 
Olive  greens  in  which  the  yellow  predominates  are  soft, 
warm,  and  restful  colors,  which  may  be  used  in  any  light  or 
climate. 

The  general  tone  in  the  finish  of  rooms  that  have  a  north- 
ern exposure,  or  that  are  not  well  lighted,  should  be  either 
in  dull  reds  or  yellows. 

In  finishing  the  walls  of  a  room,  it  should  always  be  re- 
membered that  they  are  to  serve  as  a  background  for  pic- 
tures, furniture,  and  hangings.     For  this  reason  they  should 
be  made  as  soft  and  neutral  as  possible.     Large 
and  set  designs,  and  pronounced  colors,  are  diffi-      a  back- 
cult  things  to  deal  with  in  furnishing  a  room,    ground  for 
Of  course  the  most  sanitary  finish  is  the  calci-     picete.eS' 
mined  or  painted  walls,  but  as  a  rule  they  are 
cold  and  hard.     A  paper  in  plain  color  and  soft  tints  never 
offends  or  tires  the  eyes.     Cartridge-papers  are  very  satis- 
factory on  this  account. 

The  back  of  very  cheap  paper  will  sometimes  make  a 
good  wall-covering.  This  is  particularly  true  when  the  back 
is  a  soft  ecru  or  buff. 

A  plain  finish  is  especially  desirable  for  the  walls  of  halls, 
parlors,  libraries,  and   dining-rooms.     Light  papers  with 
dainty  colorings  and  designs  are  appropriate  for  bedrooms. 
Papers  with  set  figures  or  geometrical  designs 
should  not  be  used  on  the  walls  of  a  sleeping-      papers, 
room.     If  one  should  happen  to  be  ill  for  any 
length  of  time  in  such  a  room,  these  designs  would  be  a  con- 
tinual torture  to  the  eye.     The  background  of  a  paper  used 
in  a  sleeping-room  should  be  of  a  soft,  delicate  shade  of 
cream,— or  gray  is  good,— and  over  this  might  be  running 
vines,  or  flowers  either  single,  clustered,  or  festooned;  a 
frieze   of   sedgy  grass,  flags,    etc.,  would    be    a  pleasing 


22  HOME  ECONOMICS 

finish;  and,  ill  or  well,  one  would  rarely  tire  or  be  annoyed  by 
the  designs  or  tones  in  such  a  wall-covering. 

If  the  house  is  heated  by  steam  or  hot  water, 
Placing  of  the  pipes  and  radiators  that  are  brought  into  a 
pipes^d  room  snould  be  made  as  inconspicuous  as  possible, 
radiators.  They  should  be  placed  where  they  will  not  take 
up  too  much  wall-space.  Sometimes  the  most 
desirable  part  of  a  room  is  spoiled  by  these  ugly  pipes. 

THE  CHIMNEY  AND  FURNACE-PIPES 

The  first  considerations  in  building  a  chimney  should  be 
safety  and  the  efficiency  of  the  draft. 

In  the  accounts  of  the  burning  of  dwelling-houses,  the 
cause  given  for  the  origin  of  the  fire,  in  a  great  majority  of 
cases,  is  a  defective  flue.  This  applies  to  all  classes  of 
houses,  from  the  cheapest  to  the  most  costly.  Certainly  in 
this  day  materials  and  workmanship  ought  to  be  of  so  high 
an  order  that  it  would  be  almost  an  impossibility  to  have 
fires  from  such  a  cause. 

The  draft  depends,  to  some  extent,  upon  location.    When 

practicable,  the  chimney  should  be  carried  high 

cMmney.     enough  for  the  top  to  be  free  from  all  obstruction. 

A  chimney  whose  top  is  overshadowed  on  one  or 

more  sides  by  high  walls  will  not  draw  when  the  wind  is  in 

certain  directions. 

In  building  fireplaces,  every  precaution  should  be  taken 
to  preclude  all  danger  of  the  woodwork  taking  fire.    This 
may  be  accomplished  by  surrounding  them  with  thick  walls 
of  brick  or  other  masonry.     Deep  fireplaces  do  not  heat  a 
room  as  well  as  shallow  ones,  except  at  the  ex- 
places,      pense  of  a  great  deal  of  fuel.     Unless  one  lives 
in  the  country,  where  wood  is  cheap,  the  fireplace 
should  not  be  very  large.     The  back  should  slant  forward 
as  it  rises;  this  tends  to  throw  the  heat  into  the  room. 


SOME  ESSENTIALS  OF  THE  HOME  23 

Every  fireplace  should  be  provided  with  a  damper  that  may 
be  opened  or  closed  at  will.  The  best  finish  for  the  interior 
is  fire-brick.  A  facing  and  hearth  of  glazed  tiles  is  desirable, 
as  they  are  clean  and  reflect  the  heat. 

Hot-air  pipes,  when  passing  through  walls  or  floors,  should 
be  several  inches  from  the  woodwork.     If  such 
openings  can  be  plastered,  or  the  pipes  wrapped      l^rds.6" 
in  asbestos,  the  danger  of  fire  from  this  cause 
will  be   greatly  diminished.     Use  every  precaution  here. 

THE  PLUMBING 

The  plumbing  of  the  house  should  be  of  the  best  quality, 
as  simple  as  possible  in  construction,  and  there  should  be  no 
more  of  it  than  is  actually  necessary  for  the  comfort  and 
convenience  of  the  family.  Stationary  basins  with  hot  and 
cold  water  in  the  bedrooms,  and  bath-rooms  con- 
nected with  sleeping-rooms,  lighten  the  labor  of  basins7 
those  doing  the  work  of  the  household,  and  they 
are  a  great  luxury;  but  they  are  dangerous  things  to  have 
in  or  next  to  sleeping-rooms.  It  is  better  to  have  bath- 
rooms as  far  away  from  sleeping-rooms  as  possible,  and  to 
put  generous,  portable  wash-stands  and  bowls  in  the  sleeping- 
rooms. 

There  should  be  the  least  possible  horizontal  piping  laid 
in  the  house.     Hence,  bath-rooms,  closets,  etc.,  should  be 
placed,  when  practicable,  in  locations  on  the  dif- 
ferent floors  that  are  relatively  the  same.     All      pipw. 
plumbing  should  be  in  sight,  and  the  traps  so 
placed  that  they  may  be  opened  and  examined  with  ease. 

The  trapping  is  one  of  the  most  important  constructions 
in  plumbing,  and  only  traps  of  the  simplest  form 
should  be  used.     A  trap  is  a  U-shaped  bend  in  a     tJefr  use. 
pipe.     It  must  always  contain  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  water  to  extend  an  inch  or  more  above  the  bend.    This 


24 


HOME  ECONOMICS 


■S>^ 


Fig.  8. 

A,  B,  common  traps;  C,  D,  modifications  ot"  A  and 
issho 
ntilati 
a  building. 


water  is  termed  the  seal,  and  its  office  is  to  prevent  the 
escape  of  sewer-gas  from  the  pipe  into  the  room.     There 

are  many  kinds  of 
c  £=«=?  ~  -*  sewer-gas  traps,  but 
they  all  aim  at  the 
same  result  —  the 
water-seal. 

The  soil-pipe  must 
be  thoroughly  ven- 
tilated, and  the  ven- 
tilating-pipe  should 
be   carried  well  up 

caps,  as  shown  at  a,  oeing  added  for  cleaning  out  the  traps;  E,  F,        ,  ,,  »      ■> 

G,  ventilating-traps  with  air-pipes  at  *  leading  to  the  exterior  of    SDOVe    tne    TOOI,     IJQ- 

yond  all  possible 
chance  of  foul  air  being  drawn  into  the  house  through  the 
windows. 

On  the  size  of  the  soil-pipe  depends  much  of  its  efficiency. 
It  should  never  be  so  large  that  it  cannot  be  thoroughly 
flushed— that  is,  filled  with  water,  so  that  every  part  of  it  is 
cleansed  as  the  water  flows  through.  A  four-inch  pipe  is 
the  size  generally  used ;  but  if  the  flow  of  water  is  not  abun- 
dant, a  smaller  pipe  would  be  better.  The  overflow-pipes 
of  the  bowls  and  bath-tubs  of  old-style  plumbing 
are  most  difficult  to  flush  or  disinfect.  This  kind 
of  overflow-pipe  is  still  used  in  cheap  plumbing, 
but  the  most  advanced  plumbers  now  have  much  better 
arrangements,  the  stand-pipe  for  bath-tubs  being  one  of 
the  simplest  and  best.  Naturally,  every  year  there  are  new 
appliances,  or  improvements  on  old  forms,  and  builders 
should  make  every  effort  to  get  those  that  are 
best  from  the  sanitary  point  of  view. 

Each  water-closet  should  be  provided  with  a 

separate  flushing-tank  which  will  hold  at  least 

three  gallons  of  water.     The  flushing-pipe  of  the 

water-closet  should  never  have  direct  communication  with 

the  main  tank.     When  this  communication  exists  there  is 


Overflow- 
pipes. 


Flushing 
of  pipes 

in  water- 
closets. 


SOME  ESSENTIALS   OF   THE  HOME  25 

« 

always  danger  of  contaminating  the  water  supplying  boiler, 
bowls,  baths,  etc. 

When  there  is  but  one  bath-room  in  the  house,  there 
should  be  a  water-closet  on  the  first  or  second  floor.  It  is 
desirable  to  have  a  bath-room  for  the  servants,  if  practicable. 

A  small  room  on  the  first  floor  with  bowl  and  water-closet 
will  be  found  a  great  convenience.    . 

The  placing  of  the  pipes  should  be  studied  with  great 
care.     When  it  can  be  avoided  they  should  not 
be  put  on  the  north  side  of  the  house.     A  plan  of      Care  in 
the  plumbing  should  be  kept  in  every  house,  and    Plac.ins  of 
the   housekeeper  should   make   herself  familiar 
with  its  details. 

The  universal  motto  in  regard  to  plumbing  should  be: 
The  best,  the  simplest,  and  the  least  possible. 

I  want  here  to  mention  two  books  which  would  prove  of 
great  value  to  the  householder,  if  studied  with  care.  They 
are  both  so  clearly  and  simply  written  that  any 
amateur  can  understand  them.  One  is  "  How  to  Eanitation. 
Drain  a  House,"  by  George  E.  Waring,  Jr.,  and 
the  other  is  "  Home  Sanitation,"  edited  by  Ellen  H.  Richards 
and  Marion  Talbot. 

COUNTRY   HOUSES— DRAINAGE  AND  EARTH-CLOSETS 

In  communities  where  there  are  no  water  or  sewerage 
systems,  the  problem  of  the  disposal  of  the  sewage  is  a 
serious  one;  but  it  should  not  be  neglected  or  ignored,  as  is 
often  the  case.  Owing  to  the  habit,  prevalent  in  many 
country  places,  of  throwing  all  the  slop-water  of  the  house- 
hold upon  the  ground  near  the  dwelling  itself,  poisonous 
gases  are  constantly  being  diffused,  and  the  poison  also 
filters  through  the  earth  from  these  points  of  deposit  into 
the  wells.  I  suppose  it  is  no  exaggeration  to  say  that  one 
half  of  the  people  living  in  country  places  suffer  from  im- 
paired health  on  this  account. 


26  HOME  ECONOMICS 

Earth  has  great  purifying  power.     The  dirtiest  water, 
after  filtering  through  a  large   area  of  earth, 
EpuSfier.a    becomes  comparatively  pure.     It  takes  time,  how- 
ever, to  accomplish  this. 
All  dirty  water  should  be  carried  as  far  as  possible  from 
the  house.     When  there  is  no  other  means  of  disposing  of 
it  than   on  the  surface  of  the  ground,  drains 
Son  of      should  be  constructed  of  well-joined  tiles,  and 
drain  for     laid  in  a  trench  that  has  a  slight  downward  in- 
quse.re"    clme-     The  trench  should  be  filled  in  with  clay. 
The  outlet  of  this  drain  may  be  on  a  piece  of 
land  distant  from  the  house  at  least'~two  'hundred  feet. 
Every  particle  of  liquid  refuse  must  go  into  this  drain. 
When  it  is  not  possible  to  have  a  water-closet,  an  earth- 
closet  should  be  constructed,  with  care  to  have 
closets".      ^  as  sanitary  as  such  things  can  be  made.     Each 
member  of  the  household  should  be  taught  how 
to  use  the  earth,  and  the  necessity  of  keeping  the  earth- 
closet  dry. 

This  closet  should  be  connected  with  the  house  only  by  a 
covered  passage.  It  should  be  well  lighted  and  ventilated. 
The  vault  must  be  shallow,  with  a  bottom  of  well-packed 
clay.  The  board  that  shuts  in  the  .vault  must  be  so  ar- 
ranged that  it  can  be  easily  removed,  and  it  should  have 
two  openings  cut  in  it  for  ventilation. 

The  contents  of  the  vault  must  be  kept  covered  with  fine, 
dry  earth.  If  the  earth  is  mixed  with  powdered  charcoal, 
so  much  the  better.  A  box  of  this  mixture,  and  a  small 
shovel,  should  be  kept  in  the  closet.  The  vault  will  have  to 
be  cleaned  frequently.  Chloride  of  lime,  or  quicklime,  might 
be  scattered  in  the  vault  occasionally.  No  liquid  should 
ever  be  poured  into  the  closet.  The  secret  of  keeping  it 
in  a  sanitary  condition  consists  in  keeping  it  dry,  and  sprin- 
kling in  dry  earth  every  time  it  is  used. 


CHAPTER   II 

THE  WATER-SUPPLY 

Situation  and  depth  of  well  or  spring.     Methods  of  softening  and  purifying 
water.    Tests  for  impurities  in  water. 

Do  any  of  us  ever  realize  how  dependent  we  are  on  water 
for  life  and  health? 

Water  is  the  carrier  of  food  throughout  the  whole  system. 
Upon  its  purity  life  and  health  depend;  if,  on  the 
contrary,  it  is  impure,  it  carries  with  it  disease,      wJ^a 
and  often  death.  necessity. 

It  is  the  duty  of  every  head  of  a  family  to  see 
to  it  that  the  household  is  furnished  with  as  pure  water  as 
possible. 

If  the  water  is  supplied  to  a  town  by  a  corporation,  the 
chances  are  that  it  is  as  pure  as  it  is  possible  to  get  within 
a  reasonable  distance.  The  great  danger  is  from  wells, 
either  in  town  or  country,  or  from  bodies  of  water  into  which 
sewage  flows. 

The  general  criterion  of  pure  water  is  that  which  is  "  free 
from  color,  taste,   or  smell,  and  is  cool,  soft, 
bright,  well  aerated,  and  entirely  free  from  de-     0f  purity, 
posit." 

This  standard  is  correct  as  far  as  it  goes,  but  the  condi- 
tion it  describes  does  not  always  indicate  perfectly  pure 
water.    Water  may  have  all  these  characteristics  and  yet 

27 


28  HOME  ECONOMICS 

hold  in  solution  poisons  from  decaying  organic  substances. 
Strictly  speaking,  no  water  is  pure,  except  distilled  water. 

Our  supply  of  water  comes  from  rivers,  lakes,  springs, 

and  wells.     These  sources  are  fed  by  the  rain  and  melting 

snows.     Portions  of  these  rain-  and  snow-waters 

Sources  of    flow  djrectiy  from  the  surface  of  the  earth  into 

ply.  rivers,  lakes,  springs,  etc.  Other  portions  filter 
through  the  soil. 

That  which  flows  over  the  soil  carries  with  it  portions  of 
the  loose  matter  which  it  encounters  in  its  rush  to  stream 
or  pond.  The  water  that  sinks  into  the  soil  filters  until  it 
reaches  well,  spring,  or  subterranean  stream. 

In  its  passage  through  the  soil  it  may,  and  usually  does, 
undergo  many  changes,  all  depending  on  what  it  finds  in 
its  travels. 

One  of  the  characteristics  of  water  is  its  solvent  power. 
The  purer  and  softer  it  is,  the  greater  this  power.  In  per- 
colating through  the  soil  it  dissolves  many  sub- 

1?™lv0!t  stances  it  finds  there,  and  absorbs  some  of  them. 
power  oi 

water.       On  the  other  hand,  clean  soil— that  is  to  say, 
soil  free  from  any  decaying  organic  substance, 
either  animal  or  vegetable— has  the   power  of  purifying 
water,  provided  the  bed  of  earth  through  which  it  per- 
colates is  thick  enough. 

The  greatest  danger  of  poison  in  water  comes  from  the 
presence  of  decaying  organic  matter.    The  sources 
^easUy11     of  this  Pollution  are  many;  but  the  most  deadly, 
prevented,     and  it  may  be  said  the  most  common,  are  those 
which  might  be  prevented. 
When  the  water-supply  comes  from  wells  or  springs  near 
a  habitation,  there  is  always  a  possibility  of  pollution,  unless 
the  surrounding  soil  is  guarded  with  greatest  care.   All  ref- 
use, dry  or  liquid,  from  houses,  barns,  and  outhouses,  if  left 
where  it  can  soak  into  the  soil,  will,  if  the  spring  or  well 
is  near  enough,  find  its  way  into  the  water.   This  almost  inva' 
riably  means  disease,  and  very  often  death. 


THE  WATER-SUPPLY  20 

It  would  fill  the  souls  of  many  good  men  and  women  with 
horror  if  they  were  told  that  they  are  slowly,  but  surely, 
poisoning  their  families  and  themselves  with  the  filth  which 
they  throw  upon  the  earth  near  what  should  be  the  sources 
of  the  purest  physical  life.     The  pile  of  manure 
but  a  few  yards  away  from  the  well,  the  slop-    Sources.of 
water  thrown  on  the  ground  near  the  well,  the     pollution, 
badly  constructed  drain  that  allows  a  portion  of 
the  sewage  to  leak  into  the  earth  and  in  this  way  reach  the 
water  in  the  well— each  of  these  carries  its  share  of  polluting 
matter.     The  heaps  of  decaying  matter  found  about  many 
houses  are  another  source  of  contamination.    It  will  be  seen, 
then,  that  to  keep  the  earth  clean  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
water-supply  is  of  the  greatest  importance. 

Water  drawn  from  marshy  lands  will  always  contain  de- 
caying vegetable  matter,  and  it  should  not  be  used  for 
drinking  purposes. 

Inorganic  matter  is  also  dissolved  and  taken  up  by  water, 
which  invariably  contains  traces  of  the  inorganic  substances 
over  which  it  flows.     Carbonate  of  lime  (chalk)  and  sulphate 
of  lime  (gypsum)  are  the  most  common  and  abun- 
dant minerals  found  in  water.     It  is  the  presence     ^^gamc 
of  these  substances  which  gives  us  what  we  call       water. 
*'hard"  water.     Iron,  phosphates,  etc.,  are  also 
found  in  water,  according  to  the  locality  over  which  it  flows. 
Air  and  carbonic-acid  gas  are  always  constituents  of  pure 
water. 

SITUATION  AND  DEPTH  OF  WELL  OR  SPRING 

From  what  has  been  said,  there  can  be  no  doubt  as  to  the 
importance  of  the  location  of  the  well  or  spring  from 
which  the  house  obtains  its  supply  of  water.     It  is     Situation 
an  imperative  necessity  that  the  well  should  be  so    °  ^nes! 
placed  that  there  is  not  a  shade  of  a  chance  of 
pollution. 

The  depth  of  the  well  is  very  important.     A  shallow  well 


30  HOME  ECONOMICS 

is  always  unsafe,  because  surface-water,  before  it  has  sunk 

through  enough  earth  for  purification,  will  filter 

Depth  of     jn^0  i^     Tfo  Walls  of  a  well  should  be  cemented 

spring.      so  as  to   prevent  surface-water  from   soaking 

through  them. 
As  soft  water  has  the  power  of  dissolving  lead  in  small 
quantities,  this  metal  should  not  be  used  for  water-pipes 
when  it  can  be  avoided.    Water  which  has  stood 
leiSgpipes.    m  ^ne  pipes  for  any  length  of  time  should  never 
be  used  for  drinking  purposes  or  in  the  prepara- 
tion of  food.     It  should  be  allowed  to  run  long  enough  to 
empty  the  pipe  before  any  is  collected  for  use. 
There  are  several  kinds  of  impurities: 

1.  That  which  comes  from  organic  substances,  be  it  vege- 
table or  animal. 

2.  Inorganic  matter,  such  as  lime,  iron,  lead,  etc. 

3.  Water  has  considerable  solvent  powers,  and  as  it  flows 
over  rocks  and  through  beds  of  different  kinds  of  soil  it  dis- 
solves both  inorganic  and  organic  substances. 

The  purest  known  natural  waters  contain  some  foreign 
substances. 


METHODS  OF  SOFTENING  AND  PURIFYING  WATER 

There  are  several  methods  of  purifying  water  when  it 

holds  in  solution  or  suspension  so  much  foreign  matter  as 

to  make  it  unhealthy  or  difficult  to  use  for  do- 

"uS?^   mestic  Ptoses. 

water.  1.  One  of  the   simplest  and  most  commonly 

employed  methods  is  to  boil  the  water.     This 

process  practically  kills  all  the  organic  life  contained  in  the 

water;  it  also  softens  the  water,  if  Jhe  hardness  be  temporary. 

2.  Filtering  the  water  purifies  to  some  extent— that  is, 
all  substances  held  in  suspension  are  filtered  out;  but  it  must 
be  remembered  that  any  substance  held  in  solution  passes 


THE  WATER-SUPPLY  31 

through,  so  it  is  not  possible  to  make  hard  water  soft  by 
filtration. 

All  natural  waters  have  dissolved  in  them  carbon  dioxid, 
oxygen,   and    nitrogen.      Water  absorbs  about 
its   own  volume   of  carbon   dioxid,   about   one    faction 
twenty-fifth  of  its  own  volume  of  oxygen,  and      dioxid. 
a  much   smaller  quantity  of  nitrogen.      These 
gases  give  life,  sparkle,  and  a  suggestion  of  flavor  to  water. 

Carbon  dioxid  has  the  property  of  dissolving  lime.  As 
the  water  charged  with  this  gas  flows  over  the  beds  of  lime- 
stone and  sulphate  of  lime  (gypsum),  it  dissolves  particles 
of  the  lime  which  is  held  in  solution  by  the  carbon  dioxid, 
thus  giving  to  the  water  the  quality  we  call  hardness. 

3.  There  are  two  kinds  of  hardness— temporary  and  per- 
manent. 

4.  Temporary  hardness  is  due  to  carbonates.  Water  flow- 
ing over  a  limestone  district  dissolves  small  portions  of  the 
lime  which  is  held  in  solution  by  the  carbonic  acid  in  the 
water.  Now,  if  the  carbonic  acid  be  removed  or  given  some- 
thing else  to  work  upon,  the  lime  in  the  water  is  precipitated. 
We  see  this  when  we  boil  water  and  a  white  crust  is  found 
on  the  vessel  in  which  it  was  boiled.  In  Paris,  a  thick  coat 
covers  the  interior  of  the  vessel  in  which  water  is  boiled  in 
a  day  or  two;  even  the  cover  of  the  saucepan  will  contain  a 
coating  of  lime  where  the  steam  has  condensed. 

5.  When  water  is  boiled  for  some  time  the  carbonic-acid 
gas  is  driven  off,  and  there  is  nothing  to  hold  the  lime  in 
solution,  so  it  drops  out  of  the  water.  But  this  gas  gives 
life  to  water,  and  by  long  boiling  we  lose  this,  and,  naturally, 
as  a  beverage  it  is  flat  and  unpalatable,  and  the  beverages 
which  we  make  from  it  are  not  so  bright  as  those  made  with 
water  which  has  been  freshly  boiled. 

If  the  water  is  poured  several  times  from  one  vessel  to 
another,  it  will  reabsorb  some  of  the  gases,  and  the  flavor 
will  be  improved. 


32  HOME  ECONOMICS 

One  of  the  best  methods  of  removing  temporary  hardness 

(that  due  to  the  carbonates)  is  what  is  known  as  Clark's 

process.     One  tenth  of  lime-water  is  added  to  the 

temporary    nard  water— that  is,  one  gallon  of  lime-water  to 

hardness,    every  ten  gallons  of  hard  water.     (See  "Lime- 

Water.") 

Removing        When  the  hardness  is  permanent  it  is  softened 

hTrdne611*   ^Y  tne  Edition  of  sal-soda.     However,  enough  of 

this  chemical  cannot  be  used  to  soften  the  water 

employed  for  cooking  purposes,  but  it  is  valuable  as  an  agent 

for  softening  the  water  employed  in  washing  and  cleaning. 

When  water  contains  organic  matter,  anything  that  will 

coagulate  the  albuminous  substance  in  the  water 

Purifying     wju  tend  to  purify  it.   Alum,  oak  chips,  and  certain 

lation.U"     kinds  of  nuts  have  the  property  of  coagulating 

albuminous  matter,  and  the  precipitate  carries 

down  other  impurities. 

Water  taken  from  marshy  land,  ponds,  or  rivers,  in  which 
decaying  organic  substances  are  dissolved,  should  be  puri- 
fied by  the  addition  of  oak  chips  or  alum.  When  the  water 
becomes  clear  it  should  be  filtered  or  strained.  Use  about 
eight  grains  of  alum  to  a  gallon  of  water;  if  the  oak  chips 
are  used,  a  handful  to  about  two  gallons  of  water. 

When  a  filter  is  not  employed  in  the  kitchen,  all  the  water 
used  for  drinking  and  cooking  may  be  strained  through  a 
flannel  bag— small  bags  with  running-strings,  which  may  be 
fastened  on  the  faucet.    They  should  be  changed  every  day. 

TESTS  FOR  IMPURITIES  IN  WATER 

Church  gives  the  following  simple  tests,  which  may  be 
made  in  any  kitchen,  for  impurities  in  water: 

"Boil   one   quart  of  the  water  to  be  tested 
ration. "    *n  a  porcelain  dish,  and  then  heat  the  dry  resi- 
due hotter  and  hotter.     If  the  original  residue 
is  white  and  powdery  in  appearance,  that  is,  so  far,  a  good 


THE   WATER-SUPPLY  33 

sign;  but  if  it  is  partly  white  and  partly  yellowish  or  green- 
ish, and  especially  if  there  are  gum-like  stains  around  the 
residue,  then,  on  heating  these  parts  of  the  residue,  we 
shall  probably  see  them  darken,  fuse,  and  burn  away  in 
part,  giving  out  fumes  having  a  disagreeable  smell.  If 
the  blackening  is  considerable,  much  organic  matter  is 
present;  but  if  the  smell  is  offensive  (like  burnt  feathers), 
then  it  is  certain  that  the  organic  matter  is  of  animal  origin, 
and  is,  therefore,  more  likely  to  be  unwholesome,  or  even 
poisonous." 

"  If  water  contains  substances  derived  from  the  decay  of 
animal  or  vegetable  matters,  such  as  those  in  sewage  and 
manure  and  the  refuse  of  plants,  then  it  is 
found  that  such  a  water  will  destroy  the  beau-  By  per" 
tiful  purple  color  of  a  chemical  substance  called  of  potash, 
permanganate  of  potash.  The  reason  for  this 
is  as  follows:  The  decaying  organic  matter  of  the  water 
attracts  oxygen  strongly  when  it  is  presented  in  certain 
states  or  forms.  Now,  a  solution  of  the  above  perman- 
ganate contains  much  oxygen  just  in  the  right  state  to  be 
attracted  and  removed.  By  its  removal  from  the  perman- 
ganate the  composition  of  that  substance  is  altered  and  its 
color  destroyed.  The  more  organic  matter  in  the  water, 
the  more  permanganate  will  be  decolorized.  The  test  may 
be  thus  applied:  Fill  a  clean  white  tea-cup  with  the  water 
to  be  tested.  Add  about  sixty  drops  of  weak  sulphuric  acid; 
stir  with  a  clean  slip  of  window-glass.  Now  pour  in  enough 
of  a  weak  solution  of  permanganate  of  potash  to  render  the 
water  a  rich  rose-color.  Cover  the  cup  with  a  clean  glass 
plate.  Now,  if  there  be  much  organic  matter  in  the  water, 
the  color  will  go  in  a  few  minutes,  and  more  permanganate 
may  be  added,  and  still  lose  its  color.  It  must  be  recollected, 
in  using  this  test,  that  peaty  matter  and  iron  salts,  which 
are  not  necessarily  unwholesome,  give  the  same  results." 

"Nearly  fill  a  clean  tumbler  with  water,  and  then  add 


34  HOME  ECONOMICS 

twenty  drops  of  nitric  acid,  and  five  of  a  solution  of  ni- 
trate of  silver  (lunar  caustic),  or  else  a  small  crystal  of 

that  substance.  Stir  with  a  clean  slip  of  glass, 
acS.nC     anc*  ^  there  is  more  than  a  slight  bluish-white 

cloudiness,  if  there  is  a  solid  curdy  substance 
found,  then  there  is  too  much  common  salt  in  the  water. 
It  may  be  said,  What  harm  is  there  in  common  salt? 
We  answer,  None  in  the  common  salt  as  such,  but  only 
in  common  salt  as  evidence  of  some  kinds  of  pollution. 
We  will  explain.  Common  salt  (chloride  of  sodium)  does  not 
occur  in  rain-water  or  pure  well-water,  except  to  the  extent 
of  a  little  over  a  grain  per  gallon.  Of  course  there  is 
more  in  waters  from  salt-bearing  rocks  and  in  waters  near 
the  sea.  But  generally,— at  all  events,  in  a  chalk  or  lime- 
stone district,— where  common  salt  is  found  in  any  quantity 
exceeding  one  and  one  half  grains  per  gallon,  which  gives  a 
mere  cloudiness  with  nitrate  of  silver,  the  salt  is  derived 
from  sewage— in  other  words,  from  the  salt  consumed  in 
human  food  and  voided  chiefly  with  the  urine.  If  a  water 
be  found  to  contain  both  organic  matter  and  common  salt, 
it  is  probably  contaminated  by  house  or  town  sewage.  If 
organic  matter  be  abundant,  but  accompanied  by  a  smaller 
quantity  of  common  salt,  then  the  source  of  pollution  is 
rather  the  excrement  of  farm  animals  than  of  man,  or  it 
may  arise  merely  from  vegetable  refuse." 


CHAPTER   III 

FURNISHING 

The  hall.  The  dining-room.  The  library.  The  living-room.  The  parlor. 
The  bedrooms.  The  kitchen.  Kitchen  utensils.  Tinware.  Ironware. 
Granite-ware.  Woodenware.  Earthenware.  Stoneware.  Miscella- 
neous.   Ventilation. 

The  furnishing  of  the  house  should  be  within  one's  means 
and  in  harmony  with  the  structure.  It  is  possible  to  furnish 
a  home  comfortably,  and  even  elegantly,  for  the 
same  sum  that  is  often  spent  in  producing  the  ^J588611" 
most  commonplace  and  uncomfortable  results,  furnishing. 
The  beginners  in  housekeeping  should,  first  of 
all,  decide  upon  the  amount  of  money  they  can  afford  to 
spend  in  furnishing;  next  they  should  make  a  list  of  the 
essentials;  then  another  list  of  desirable  accessories  should 
be  made  out;  finally,  they  should  agree  to  buy  the  essentials 
first,  to  have  them  of  as  good  material  and  workmanship  as 
can  be  afforded,  and  to  select  form  and  colors  that  will  be 
simple  and  quiet  rather  than  elaborate  and  striking. 

It  is  hardly  possible  to  estimate  the  influence  that  the 
furnishing  of  a  room  has  upon  the  feelings  and  character  of 
the  inmates. 

Every  article  in  a  room  should  have  a  reason  for  being 
there.  The  thing  that  supports  real  weight  or  pressure 
should  have  the  appearance  of  being  able  to  do  so  without 
any  strain  upon  itself  or  danger  to  the  object  supported. 

35 


36  HOME  ECONOMICS 

A  chair  or  couch  should  look  strong  enough  to  sustain  the 

weight  of  any  one  who  sits  on  it.     A  table  on  which  many 

E  erv  a  -    ar^c^es  are  placed,  as  a  five-o'clock  tea-table,  for 

tide  of  fur-    example,  should  be  broad  and  firm,  and  should  not 

mture       gjve  the  impression  of  being  too  small  or  too  del- 
should  be     r    .     -      ..    ,      ,  ^     ,,  xt     ^  1 1 
adapted  to    icate  for  its  burden.     On  the  contrary,  the  table 

its  special    on  wnich  the  fragile  vase  of  flowers  is  placed  is 

all  the  more  appropriate  and  attractive  if  it  is  of 

a  delicate,  airy  construction. 

Draperies  should  indicate  that  they  are  used  to  soften 

the  light,  replace  doors,  or  give  softness  or  color  to  some 

Pictures     part  of  the  room.     Pictures  and  ornaments  are 

and  orna-    to  give  pleasure  to  the  eye,  and  they  should  be  of 

such  a  character,  and  arranged  in  such  a  manner, 

that  they  will  accomplish  this  result. 

THE    HALL 

It  is  the  hall  that  gives  the  first  impression  of  the  home. 

Of  course  the  furnishing  of  it  must  depend  upon  the  style 

and  size  of  the  house  and  upon  the  character  of 

nisWnerf    ^e  room.     Oak  is,  as  a  rule,  the  most  satisfac- 

the  hall,     tory  wood  to  use  here.     If  the  hall  is  one  of  the 

narrow  passageways  so  often  found  in  city  houses, 

a  hall-stand,  composed  of  seat,  mirror,  and  umbrella-stand, 

and  having  several  hooks  to  hang  hats  and  wraps  upon,  is 

the  extent  of  the  furniture  that  can  be  allowed. 

If  the  size  of  the  hall  will  permit,  it  is  best  to  furnish  it 
as  a  reception-room.  In  that  case,  a  table,  chairs,  hall-settle 
or  a  plain  sofa,  mirror,  pictures,  and,  if  there  is  room,  a 
small  bookcase,  will  make  a  comfortable  and  charming  room. 
A  fireplace  usually  includes  a  mantel-shelf  on  which  some 
ornaments  may  be  arranged.  A  clock  is  always  appropriate 
in  a  hall.  The  floor,  if  possible,  should  be  of  hard  wood, 
and  rugs  may  be  laid  on  it  here  and  there. 


FURNISHING  37 


THE  DINING-ROOM 

The  floor  of  this  room  should  be  of  hard  wood.  The  table 
and  chairs  must  be  well  made  and  of  generous  size.  It  is 
impossible  to  arrange  a  narrow  table  in  an  ele- 
gant manner,  and  nothing  is  more  uncomforta-  ^SSS-J^ 
ble  than  small,  unsubstantial  dining-room  chairs.  ings. 
When  the  sideboard  is  built  into  the  side  of 
the  room,  the  table  and  chairs  will  be  all  the  necessary 
furniture.  If  there  is  no  sideboard,  and  the  expense  of 
one  cannot  be  incurred,  a  sideboard-table,  which  may  be 
covered  with  a  pretty  cloth,  will  do  to  hold  the  odd  bits  of 
tableware  one  always  wants  in  the  dining-room.  A  mantel- 
piece and  one  or  two  cupboards  give  an  opportunity  of 
displaying  pretty  bits  of  porcelain  and  glass  to  the  best 
advantage.  Nothing  one  may  put  in  the  dining-room  will 
add  such  brightness  and  charm  as  closets  or  cabinets, 
through  the  glass  doors  of  which  the  brilliant  glass  and 
china  may  be  seen.  Growing  plants  and  pictures  are  always 
a  pleasing  addition  to  this  room,  which  should  be  one  of  the 
pleasantest  in  the  house. 

THE    LIBRARY 

The  ideal  library  is  a  room  in  a  quiet  corner  of  the  house, 
with  bookcases  built  around  the  walls,  not  too  high,  so  that 
the  titles  of  the  books  may  be  read  by  a  person 
standing  on  the  floor.     As  wall-space  is  of  great      library. 
value  in  this  room,  there  should  be  only  one  large 
window.     The  principal  light  should  come  from  windows 
above  the  bookcases.     The  floor  should  be  of  polished  wood, 
and  the  walls  painted  or  papered  in  rich,  warm  colors.    An 
open  fireplace,  a  library  table  of  generous  size,  a  desk,  com- 
fortable chairs,  a  window-seat,  a  couch  with  pillows,  rugs, 


38  HOME  ECONOMICS 

etc.,  all  should  find  a  place  in  this  room.  It  will  be  made 
doubly  attractive  and  instructive  u  there  are  some  classical 
pictures  and  a  few  casts.  The  whole  atmosphere  of  a 
library  should  suggest  thought  and  study. 

THE  LIVING-ROOM 

In  every  house  there  is  one  room  in  particular  where  the 
members  of  the  family  assemble  in  their  hours  of  leisure. 
This  room  is  known  as  the  living-room  or  sitting-room.  In 
many  homes  it  combines  parlor  or  drawing-room,  sitting- 
room,  library,  and  reception-room.  When  this  is  the  case 
it  is  apt  to  be  an  exceptionally  delightful  place;  in  any  case, 
it  ought  to  be  the  most  attractive  room  in  the  house. 

Here  there  should  be  the  best  light,  the  greatest  amount 

of  sunshine,  the  most  pleasing  and  refining  pictures,  the 

easiest  chairs,  the  most  cheerful  fire,  and  books, 

stitutes"    tables,  foot-rests,  etc.     In  a  room  of  this  kind 

comfort  in    there  should  be  a  large  center-table,  with  a  good 

room?5"  lamP  or  drop-light.  If  the  family  is  large,  one  or 
two  smaller  tables,  on  which  student-lamps  are 
placed,  will  be  of  the  greatest  comfort.  Even  if  there  is  a 
library,  this  room  must  have  a  bookcase  filled  with  miscella- 
neous literature. 

A  closet  where  newspapers,  magazines,  games,  work,  etc., 
may  be  kept  will  be  found  a  great  convenience.  If  there  is 
no  closet,  some  arrangement  should  be  made  for  keeping 
these  things.  One  so  often  wants  to  refer  to  back  numbers 
of  papers  or  magazines  that  these  periodicals  should  be  kept 
in  an  accessible  place  for  a  certain  length  of  time. 

Another  convenience  in  such  a  room  is  the  box-seat.  Any 
room  used  as  much  as  this  is  sure  to  be  should  have  a  pol- 
ished floor,  and  there  should  be  a  generous  supply  of  rugs. 
All  the  furnishing  should  be  of  the  most  substantial  and 
comfortable  kind,  with  nothing  too  good  for  constant  wear 


FURNISHING  39 

and  exposure  to  light  and  sunshine.    Anything  that  has  to 
be  protected  by  scarfs  or  tidies  is  out  of  place  here.    Well- 
made  ratan  chairs,  cushioned  in  seat  and  back, 
are  light,  clean,  and  comfortable.  tial  fund- 

It  seems  a  pity  that  so  many  people  still  cling  ture  in  the 
to  the  rocking-chair.  It  takes  up  a  great  deal  of  roonT 
space,  and  the  rockers  are  always  in  the  way,  and 
are  continually  being  pushed  against  furniture  and  base- 
boards, where  they  often  do  much  damage.  The  half-reclin- 
ing position  which  is  the  inevitable  attitude  assumed  in  this 
chair  is  not  graceful,  nor  is  it  comfortable  if  one  wishes  to 
work  or  read.  Besides,  many  people  become  inexpressibly 
nervous  when  they  are  in  the  same  room  with  a  person  who 
is  constantly  rocking.  Indeed,  it  is  an  absurd  sight  to  see 
grown  people  rock  as  if  they  were  little  children  amusing 
themselves  with  a  toy  horse. 

The  style  of  chair  that,  in  the  end,  is  the  most  comfor- 
table, and  that  cultivates  the  best  carriage  of  the  body,  is  one 
with  a  broad,  deep  seat  and  a  high,  almost  straight 
back.     Such  a  chair  will  sustain  one  in  an  erect     The .m?st 

comforta- 
position,  which  should  be  the  natural  one  when    ble  chairs. 

sitting  down  for  work  or  reading.     A  few  low  re- 

clining-chairs  should  also  be  provided,  and  a  broad,  low  couch 

with  plenty  of  pillows  gives  an  air  of  comfort  to  this  room. 

The  color  of  the  walls,  draperies,  and  furniture  of 

the  living-room  should  be  soft,  quiet,  and  restful.    ^JjJ^1^6 

Some  of  the  sofa-pillows,  however,  may  be  of       room. 

rich  and  brilliant  hues. 


THE   PARLOR 

In  some  of  the  most  delightful  houses  in  this  country 
they  have  dispensed  with  the  parlor,  the  library  and  large 
living-room  serving  for  family  and  friends,  while  a  small 
reception-room  is  used  for  ceremonious  callers. 


40  HOME  ECONOMICS 

A  parlor  should  be  elegant  and  dainty.  The  tints  of  walls, 
ceilings,  and  carpets  should  harmonize  and  be  in  delicate 
tones.  The  furniture  should  be  light  and  elegant,  the 
draperies  rich,  and  pictures  and  ornaments  good,  even  if 
that  means  very  few  of  them.  Really,  unless  one  has  a 
large  establishment,  it  is  best  to  omit  the  parlor.  Its  place 
may  be  supplied  by  a  small  reception-room,  daintily  furnished. 
The  money  that  would  be  expended  on  the  parlor  may  be 
used  to  far  better  advantage  in  the  living-room,  library,  and 
other  parts  of  the  house. 

THE  BEDROOMS 

The  furnishing  of  these  rooms  is  as  important  as  that  of 

any  other  part  of  the  house.     It  is  in  the  sleeping-room  that 

one  must  get  an  interval  of  that  absolute  physical  and 

mental  rest  which  every  human  being  requires  during  the 

twenty-four  hours  of  each  day. 

In  sickness  or  health,  there  is  no  food  or  medicine  that 

has  such  an  influence  on  the  physical  and  mental  condition 

as  restful  slumber.     Not  one  person  in  fifty  re- 

5??!j5?     alizes  the  great  importance  of  favorable  condi- 

ful  sleep,     tions  for  healthful  sleep.     Without  this  restorer 

of  tired  nature  we  become  nervous,  irritable,  and 

disagreeable  to  ourselves  and  those  about  us.     Certainly 

everything  should  be  done  to  make  the  qualifications  for 

sleep  as  nearly  perfect  as  possible. 

Two  people  should  not  occupy  the  same  room  unless  it  is 

absolutely  necessary.     If  this  is  unavoidable,  however,  there 

Separate     snou^  a^  least  be  separate  beds.     The  individual 

beds  in      bed  is  not  a  difficult  problem  in  these  days  of 

sleeping-     dainty  enameled-iron  beds,  which  can  be  had  at 
rooms. 

low  prices,  and  of  the  beautiful  brass  beds  for 

those  who  can  afford  them. 

The  most  desirable  floor  for  the  bedroom  is  the  well-fin- 


FURNISHING  41 

ished  one  of  hard  wood.     A  poorly  finished  pine  floor  may  be 

covered  with  a  good  matting,  under,  which  a  smooth  lining 

of  paper  or  some  other  material  should  first  be 

laid  down.     Never  nail  a  woolen  carpet  on  the      The  best 

floor  of  a  bedroom.     Rugs,  large  or  small,  that    bedrooms. 

may  be  shaken  and  aired  frequently  in  the  open 

air,  may  be  used  to  give  a  look  of  warmth  and  comfort  that 

one  likes  in  winter  in  our  northern  climate.     Woolen  stuffs 

absorb  dust  and  odors,  and  they  should  not  be  used  if  they 

cannot  be  subjected  to  frequent  dusting  and  airing. 

The  light  in  the  sleeping-room  should  be  softened  by 
shades  and  draperies.     It  is  well  to  have  two  sets  of  shades 
at  the  windows,  one  set  light  in  color,  and  the 
inner  one  a  dark  green,  which  may  be  drawn  down     a  Softened 
at  night,  if  necessary.     The  draperies  should  be      one  for 
of  some  soft,  light,  washable  material.  iSmlf" 

The  necessary  furniture  for  a  bedroom  is  a  bed, 
dressing-case,  one  or  two  plain  chairs  and  one  easy-chair,  a 
wash-stand  of  generous  size,  a  toilet-set,  a  towel-rack,  and  a 
table.      In  addition  to  these  things,  if  there  is 
space  and  one  can  afford  the   extra  outlay,  a     jSJJuw 
couch  with  a  few  pillows  is  a  most  desirable     bedroom, 
piece  of  furniture.   A  large  mat  of  Japanese  mat- 
ting, or  a  Japanese  cotton  rug,  should  be  placed  in  front  of 
the  wash-stand,  whether  the  floor  is  polished  or  covered 
with  matting.     Another  piece  of  furniture  that  will  be  of 
great  service  is  a  large  screen.     This  may  be  used  at  night 
to  prevent  the  wind  from  blowing  directly  on  the  sleeper, 
and  in  the  daytime  to  shut  off  the  corner  where  the  toilet 
arrangements  are  kept.     Of  course  the  room  will  be  all  the 
more  charming  and  convenient  if  there  are  pictures,  a  few 
book-shelves,  and  a  writing-desk.     Such  a  room  may  be  kept 
in  an  absolutely  sanitary  condition  with  very  little  work. 

The  most  important  article  in  the  bedroom  is,  of  course, 
the  bed.    The  perfect  bed  will  support  all  parts  of  the  body 


42  HOME  ECONOMICS 

in  an  absolutely  horizontal  position.     Firm  springs  and  a 
good  hair  mattress  will  do  this.     The  heavier  the  person 

who  sleeps  in  the  bed,  the  more  important  it  is 
bedTanbe  ^nat  tne  springs  shall  be  strong  and  firm.  If 
made  abso-  economy  must  be  considered,  let  it  be  in  the  bed- 
1Ufortable?"    stead;  tne  springs  should  be  as  good  as  possible. 

Nothing  could  be  simpler  or  more  sanitary  than 
the  iron  or  brass  bed,  with  the  woven-wire  springs  fas- 
tened to  an  iron  frame.  The  only  objection  to  the  woven 
wire  is  that  it  is  apt  to  sag— an  almost  unpardonable  fault 
in  a  bed.  But  when  the  wire  is  of  extra  good  quality, 
closely  and  firmly  woven,  and  attached  to  an  iron  frame,  it 
makes  an  excellent  foundation  for  a  single  bed.  If  a  thick, 
well-made  mattress  is  placed  on  this,  the  bed  will  be  very 
comfortable.     The  best  arrangement,  however,  is  to  have  a 

rather  hard  mattress,  of  excelsior,  for  example, 
tresses.      w^n  a  &°°d  nair  mattress  on  top.     This  gives  a 
.  bed  that  will  sustain  the  body  at  every  point  of 
contact,  and  which  will  be  soft  without  yielding.     Every- 
thing else  being  equal,  one  should  get  perfect  rest  on  such 
a  bed. 

It  may  be  thought  that  two  hair  mattresses  would  be 
better  than  one  hard  one  and  one  of  hair,  but  this  is  not  the 
case.  I  am  convinced  that  half  the  unrest,  sleeplessness, 
and  backache  with  which  people  are  afflicted  is  due  to  the 
fact  that  most  of  the  beds  in  use  do  not  support  the  body 
in  a  perfectly  horizontal  position.  Heavy  people  are  the 
greatest  sufferers,  for  the  middle  of  the  body  sinks  into  the 
yielding  bed,  and  is  at  an  angle  where  it  should  be  straight 
so  as  to  give  perfect  freedom  to  the  internal  organs.  If  one 
cannot  afford  hair  or  wool  mattresses  the  excelsior  mattress 
may  be  made  more  comfortable  by  laying  a  thick  pad  upon 
it.  The  pad  may  be  made  like  a  comfortable,  of  cotton-bat- 
ting, covered  with  white  cotton  cloth.  It  should  be  as  wide 
and  as  long  as, the  mattress  and  quite  thick. 


FURNISHING  43 

People  who  have  been  accustomed  to  a  very  soft  bed  may 
object,  at  first,  to  a  support  that  yields  only  slightly;  but 
once  having  given  it  a  thorough  test,  they  will  never  be 
willing  to  sleep  on  any  other  kind  of  bed. 

Teach  the  children  to  sleep  on  a  firm  bed,  and  with  only 
the  thinnest  kind  of  a  pillow,  if  any,  under  the  head. 

The  question  of  pillows  is  an  important  one  also.     It  is 
difficult  to  induce  one  who  has  acquired  the  habit  of  sleeping 
on  high  pillows  to  change  to  low  ones.     But  the     children 
reason  for  making  such  a  change  is  based  on  a     should  be 
hygienic  principle.    When  one  is  bolstered  up  in     ^1^° 
bed  it  is  impossible  to  relax  all  the  muscles,  a     an  almost 
thing  which  can  only  be  done  when  the  head  is    ^romai 
almost  on  a  level  with  the  rest  of  the  body.    One     position, 
should  gradually  accustom  himself  to  sleeping 
with  the  head  low.     The  pillows  may  be  low- 
ered a  little  each  week  until  the  desired  point  is  reached. 

The  length  of  the  bed  and  the  length  of  the  sheets  are 
two  important  factors  in  the  comfort— or  discomfort— of 
the  sleeper.     The  measurement  of  the  bed  on  the     L     ..    f 
inside  should  not  be  less  than  seventy-eight  inches,     sheets  of 
The  finished  sheet  should  measure  at  least  two  and       impor- 
three  quarter  yards.     This  will  admit  of  the  sheet 
being  tucked  well  under  the  bottom  of  the  mattress,  and  of 
there  being  enough  at  the  top  to  turn  back  and  prevent  the 
blankets  from  coming  in  contact  with  the  face  and  hands. 

Some  housekeepers  are  particular  in  this  respect  with  all 
the  beds  except  those  occupied  by  the  servants,  to  whom 
they  give  sheets  of  the  smallest  possible  dimensions.  It 
should  be  remembered  that  the  generous  sheet  adds  not  only 
to  the  comfort  of  the  sleeper,  but  that  it  also  is  a  protec- 
tion to  the  bedding. 

Coverings  should  be  as  light  as  possible,  and  of  a  material 
that  will  insure  ventilation.  There  is  nothing  better  than 
the  washable  woolen  blankets. 


44  HOME  ECONOMICS 

A  word  as  to  the  quality  of  the  blankets.  There  is  no 
question  but  that  the  all-wool  blanket,  being  warmer  and 
Blankets  lighter,  is  more  desirable  than  one  of  cotton  or 
of  wool.  The  only  advantage  of  a  mixture  of  cot- 
ton and  wool  is  that  the  blanket  does  not  shrink  so  much  in 
the  washing;  but  if  the  work  is  properly  done  there  need  be 
no  perceptible  shrinkage  in  the  woolen  ones. 

There  are  blankets  that  are  so  fine  and  costly  that  one 
hesitates  to  have  them  washed,  or  even  cleaned,  often. 
Such  blankets  are  generally  protected  by  a  cotton  or  linen 
cover,  and  can  be  used  a  long  time  without  cleaning.  But 
even  if  these  blankets  do  not  become  soiled,  after  a  while 
they  will  have  absorbed  impurities  from  the  body,  and  they 
should  have  frequent  and  thorough  airings.  The  better  plan 
is  to  have  less  costly  coverings,  that  may  be  washed  at  least 
once  a  year. 

The  making  of  the  bed  is  quite  as  important  as  any  other 
matter  connected  with  it.     Everything  possible  should  be 

-  _  done  to  prevent  discomfort  and  restraint.  In  the 
tance  of  a    following  directions,  it  is  the  sleeper  who  is  con- 

w*bSade  sidered> and  not  the  style  of  the  bed- 

1.  Spread  the  under  sheet  on  the  mattress, 
getting  it  perfectly  smooth.     Tuck  it  in  all  around. 

2.  Spread  the  top  sheet  on  smoothly,  having  enough  to 

tuck  in  generously  at  the  foot.     After  tucking  the  sheet 

under  the  foot  of  the  mattress,  pull  it  down  a 

makVa       little  from  the  top>  that  Jt  may  not  ^e  to°  ^S^t 
bed.        over  the  feet  of  the  sleeper. 

3.  Put  the  blankets  on,  having  the  first  one  come 

well  down  over  the  end  of  the  mattress;  lay  the  others  even 

with  the  end  of  the  mattress.    If  the  blankets  are  double,  see 

that  the  open  end  is  toward  the  head  of  the  bed,  so  that 

half  of  the  blanket  may  be  turned  back  if  one  wishes. 

4.  Tuck  the  top  sheet  and  the  blankets  in  at  the  side  of 

the  mattress,  not  under  it.    This  leaves  the  covering  free. 


FURNISHING      '  45 

5.  Put  on  the  pillows  and  spread.  How  this  shall  be  done 
depends  upon  the  mistress  of  the  house.  Taste  and  fashion 
vary  in  these  matters  constantly,  and  they  are  of  no  vital 
importance.  Still,  system  and  care  are  essential,  that  the 
bed  may  look  neat  and  attractive. 

The  mattresses  should  be  protected  by  large  cases  of 

bleached  or  unbleached  cotton  cloth.     Wide  cotton  should 

be  procured  for  this.     In  measuring  for  the  width 

of  the  case,  allow  for  the  width  and  the  depth  of     ^otection 
7  r  and  care  of 

the  mattress;  in  measuring  for  the  length  of  the     mattress. 

case,  allow  for  the  length  and  the  depth  of  the 
mattress.  Thus,  if  your  mattress  is  seventy-six  inches  long, 
forty  inches  wide,  and  eight  inches  deep,  you  will  require  five 
yards  of  cloth  fifty  inches  wide.  This  allows  for  the  seams 
in  making,  and  for  some  slight  shrinkage.  Fold  the  cloth 
together,  and  stitch  it,  leaving  one  side  open.  Slip  the  mat- 
tress in  at  the  open  side,  and  sew  it  up.  This  sewing  may 
be  like  strong  basting;  for  the  covers  should  be  taken  off  and 
washed  twice  a  year. 

The  mattresses  for  a  double  bed  should  be  in  such  a  form 
that  the  wear  may  come  on  all  parts  equally.  For  this 
reason  it  is  a  good  plan  to  have  the  mattress  made  in  two 
parts,  one  a  square  and  the  other  an  oblong.  The  oblong 
should  be  as  long  as  the  square,  of  course,  and  wide  enough 
to  fill  the  space  between  the  edge  of  the  square  and  the 
foot  of  the  bedstead.  If  the  square  is  turned  about  from 
day  to  day,  and  the  oblong  piece  is  sometimes  at  the  foot 
and  sometimes  at  the  head,  the  wear  on  all  parts  of  the 
mattress  will  be  equalized. 

The  one  objection  that  may  be  raised  to  this  arrangement 
is  that  the  seam  where  the  two  pieces  come  together  is 
sometimes  annoying.  To  obviate  this,  a  thin  comfortable, 
made  of  cotton-batting  and  white  cotton  cloth,  may  be 
spread  over  the  mattress. 

If  the  springs  are  not  covered,  there  should  be  a  covering 


46  HOME    ECONOMICS 

of  some  washable  material— strong  unbleached  cloth,  for 
example.     Springs  that  are  of  a  style  that  will  admit  of 

their  being  slipped  into  a  casing  may  have  a  cov- 
forspr^gs.    ermg  made  like  that  described  for  mattresses.    If 

this  cannot  be  done,  have  the  cover  so  made  that 
it  will  cover  the  ends  and  sides  of  the  springs,  and  fasten  it 
on  with  tapes.  All  springs  should  be  covered  for  the  pro- 
tection of  the  sheets  and  blankets. 

1.  Have  mattress  turned  in  different  direction  each  day. 

2.  Spread  under  sheet  smoothly  over  mattress,  tucking  it 

under  the  mattress, 
remember.       3-  Spread  top  sheet  so  as  to  tuck  in  well  at  foot. 
4.  Blankets  with  free  ends  at  the  head. 

5.  Fold  sheet  over  blankets,  then  turn  both  back  in  a  fold. 
Tuck  in  at  sides  of  the  bed,  not  under  the  mattress. 

6.  Put  on  spread  and  pillows. 

THE    KITCHEN 

So  much  of  the  health  and  comfort  of  the  family  depends 
on  the  kitchen  that  the  most  careful  thought  should  be 
given  to  its  furnishing. 

First  in  importance  is  the  range.     As  far  as  cooking 

appliances  are  concerned,  we  are  now  in  a  transition  stage. 

With  the  exception  of  some  localities  far  back  in 

cooking      the  country  wnere  it  is  still  used,  wood  as  a  fuel 

purposes,     for  cooking  has  not  been  employed  for  many  years. 

Anthracite  coal  takes  its  place  in  some  parts  of 

the  country,  and  bituminous  coal  in  others.     For  the  last 

twenty  years  gas  as  a  fuel  for  cooking  purposes  has  been 

growing  in  favor.   Various  forms  of  petroleum  are  also  used. 

Electricity  is  now  preparing  to  enter  the  field  as  a  powerful 

rival  of  all  the  other  fuels.     The  costliness  of  the  cooking 

apparatus  which  it  requires  seems  to  be  the  only  obstacle  in 

the  way  of  its  speedy  adoption.   This  objection  will,  no  doubt, 


FURNISHING  47 

be  eliminated  in  time.  Certainly,  for  the  great  majority  of 
householders,  coal  will  be  the  fuel  for  a  long  time  to  come. 

Whatever  fuel  is  used,  let  the  range  be  one  of  the  best  in 
the  market.     This  is  a  true  economy. 

The  necessary  qualifications  of  a  good  range  are :    The 

1.  That  the  draft  shall  be  perfect. 

2.  That  checks  and  dampers  shall  be  so  arranged  that 
the  heat  may  be  increased  or  decreased  at  will. 

3.  That  there  shall  be  ample  oven-space. 

4.  That  it  is  possible  to  make  the  oven  as  hot  on  the 
bottom  as  on  the  top. 

5.  That  there  shall  be  a  good  arrangement  for  broiling. 

6.  That  the  fire-box  shall  be  large  enough  to  take  in  suffi- 
cient coal  for  the  work  to  be  done  without  being  filled  to 
the  top. 

7.  That  a  large  part  of  the  top  surface  of  the  range  may 
be  made  hot  enough  for  the  boiling  of  liquids. 

8.  That  the  grate  shall  be  of  a  kind  that  will  admit  of 
the  bottom  of  the  fire  being  cleaned  without  the  use  of  a 
poker.     (The  Dokash  and  Duplex  grates  are  both  excellent.) 

9.  That  the  water-back  is  so  arranged  that  an  abundant 
supply  of  hot  water  may  be  assured. 

If  a  gas-range  is  to  be  used,  see  that  the  oven  accommoda- 
tions are  ample,  that  there  is  a  good  place  for  broiling,  and  that 
there  is  room  enough  on  the  top  of  the  range  for 
boiling,  stewing,  frying,  etc.    Be  sure  that  there  is      rante~s. 
one  small  burner,  or  even  more,  for  simmering. 

The  gas-range  should  have  a  small  pipe  entering  the 
chimney  to  carry  off  the  products  of  combustion. 

The  pipe  which  supplies  the  gas  to  the  range  should  be 
of  iron,  and  large  enough  to  insure  a  sufficient  flow  of  gas 
when  all  the  burners  are  in  operation. 

Ample  table-room  in  the  kitchen  simplifies  the  work. 
The  tables  should  be  strong  and  well  made.  A  white  table 
is  very  attractive,  but  it  means  a  great  deal  of  care.     If  the 


48  HOME  ECONOMICS 

table  is  covered  with  white  enameled  cloth,  it  will  always 
look  well,  and  it  may  be  kept  clean  with  little  labor,  provided 
hot  dishes  are  not  placed  on  it. 
tables!1         N°  matter  what  kind  of  tables  are  in  use,  there 
should  be  several  smooth  hard-wood  boards  to  re- 
ceive the  hot  saucepans.    These  boards  may  be  scrubbed 
clean  in  the  sink  every  day. 

In  large  households  where  a  great  deal  of  cooking  is  done 
a  table  covered  with  zinc  is  most  useful. 

A  clock  that  is  an  accurate  timekeeper  is  a  necessity  in 
the  kitchen.     There  should  be  a  few  strong  chairs,  and  one 

comfortable  chair,  and  a  shelf  for  cook-books  and 
Other  con- 
veniences     other  reading  matter.    A  slate  and  pencil  for  writ- 

for  the      mg  down  the  daily  orders  will  be  a  convenience, 

and  there  ought  to  be  an  arrangement  for  hanging 

dish-towels  to  dry  in  wet  weather.    A  coal-hod,  shovel,  tongs, 

broom,  long-handled  and  short-handled  brushes,  dust-pan, 

draining-rack,  hand-basin,  a  fiber  pail,  and  a  tea-kettle  will 

complete  the  necessary  furnishing  of  the  kitchen. 

KITCHEN  UTENSILS 

The  number  of  cooking  utensils,  and  the  most  desirable 
materials  for  them,  are  difficult  questions  for  the  housekeeper 

to  decide  at  any  time;  but  to  the  beginner  they 
sary  kitch^  have  an  ac^e(l  importance,  as  the  drain  on  the 
en  utensils,    purse  must  usually  be  considered.    It  is  a  mistake 

to  fill  the  kitchen  with  all  the  utensils  one  may 
think  she  will  be  apt  to  need  in  the  future.  It  is  wiser  to 
get  the  necessary  articles  first,  and  to  have  them  of  the  best 
quality  and  the  simplest  construction.  Utensils  with  the 
smoothest  possible  surface,  and  no  more  coils  or  grooves 
than  are  absolutely  necessary,  are  the  easiest  to  keep  clean, 
and  will  be  found  to  last  the  longest,  and  are  therefore  an 
economy  in  time  and  money. 


FURNISHING 

There  are  several  qualifications  that  are  desirable  ii 
cooking  utensil: 

1.  Smoothness.  _    .    ,, 

Desirable 

2.  Ability  to  stand  high  temperature  without     qualities 
cracking,  melting,  or  becoming  rough.  *■  cooking 

3.  Imperviousness  to  the  absorption  of  grease 
or  flavors. 

4.  Inability  to  impart  flavor  to,  or  to  discolor,  food  sub- 
stances. 

There  are  not  many  materials  that  combine  all  these 
qualifications.     Iron  and  steel  are  desirable  materials  because 
they  can  sustain  a  high  temperature  without  in-     __    . 
jury,  and  if  properly  cared  for  they  grow  smoother     and  steel 
and  finer  with  use.    For  these  reasons  iron  is  the     are  desir- 
most  satisfactory  metal  for  the  following  articles: 
frying-kettles,    frying-pans,   omelet-pans,   waffle-irons,   etc. 
Iron  utensils  should  not  be  used  for  cooking  fruits,  or  similar 
articles  into  which  acids  enter,  as  they  will  discolor  the  prep- 
aration and  spoil  the  flavor. 

The  various  kinds  of  granite  or  enameled  ware,  if    Granite  or 
of  the  first  grade,  are  generally  very  satisfactory.       waWt 
The  surface  is  smooth  and  the  utensils  are  light. 

Tinware  is  most  useful  for  certain  purposes.  It  must  be 
remembered  that  this  metal  melts  at  a  rather  low  tempera- 
ture, i.  e.,  442°  F.,  and  it  should  never  be  exposed  ~. 
to  a  high  temperature,  such  as  is  necessary,  for 
example,  in  frying;  nor  should  it  be  placed  over  the  fire  or 
in  the  oven  without  being  covered  with  water,  or  some  liquid 
in  which  water  or  milk  enters.  Water  and  watery  substances 
tend  to  reduce  the  temperature,  while  fatty  substances  tend  to 
raise  it.   (See  "  Temperature  of  Fats  and  Other  Substances.") 

Pewter  and  Britannia  both  melt  at  a  low  temper-  Pewterand 
ature,  and  should  be  used  only  for  such  purposes  Bntannia' 
as  do  not  require  a  dry  heat.  These  metals  make  satisfac- 
tory tea-pots,  dish-covers,  etc. 

4 


50 


HOME  ECONOMICS 


Woodenware  absorbs  odors  and  fats.  Articles  made  of  this 
material,  when  used  as  receptacles  for  cereals,  are  apt  to 
become  filled  with  weevils.  The  use  of  wooden- 
ware,  therefore,  for  such  purposes  should  be  lim- 
ited to  the  few  articles  that  can  be  made  of  no 
other  material. 

Stone-  and  earthenware  and  common  crockery  answer 
for  all  ordinary  purposes.  For  baking-dishes  which 
are  sent  to  the  table,  there  is  nothing  more  satis- 
factory than  the  French  fire-proof  ware.  It  is  dur- 
able and  keeps  its  color;  the  glaze  does  not  crack, 
and  the  ware  does  not  absorb  odors. 
The  following  is  a  list  of  the  utensils  needed -in  the 
kitchen: 

TINWARE 


Wooden- 
ware. 


Stone-  and 
earthen- 
ware for 
ordinary 
purposes. 


Steamer    large    enough    to 

steam  puddings  and  brown 

bread. 
2  sets  of  stamped  muffin-pans, 

one  containing  6  or  8  cups, 

and  the  other  12  cups. 
4  cake-pans,  XXX  tin. 
4  deep  plates. 
Molds     for    puddings     and 

creams. 
2  graduated  quart-measures. 
2  graduated  measuring-cups, 

one  divided  into  thirds,  and 

one  into  fourths. 
6  milk-pans  (these  are  useful 

for  many  things). 
2  dish-pans. 
Long-handled  dipper. 
Coffee-biggin. 


Puree-sieve. 

Fine  sieve. 

Coarse  strainer. 

Fine  strainer. 

Coarse  grater. 

Fine  grater. 

Flour-scoop. 

Sugar-scoop. 

Boxes  for  sugar,  rice,  hominy, 
meal,  etc. 

Tea-canister. 

Frying-basket. 

Spice-box. 

Bread-box. 

Cake-box. 

Biscuit-cutter. 

Tin  pails  for  keeping  drip- 
pings and  fats  to  be  used 
for  frying. 


FURNISHING 


51 


IRONWARE 


Scotch  bowl  for  frying.  No. 
3  or  4;  size  depends  on  use. 

2  omelet-pans  of  French  pol- 
ished ware  or  English  ham- 
mered ware. 

2  roasting-pans. 

2  frying-pans,  small  and 
large. 

Short-handled  frying-pan, 
that  maybe  put  in  the  oven. 


Skewers  (steel). 

Waffle-iron. 

3  double  broilers— meat,  fish, 

and  toast. 
Soup-pot. 
Griddle. 
Meat-rack. 
3  bread-pans. 
Set  of  roll-pans. 
2  porcelain-lined  kettles. 


GRANITE-WARE 


8  stew-pans,  ranging  in  size 
from  one  holding  1  quart 
to  one  holding  2  gallons. 


Colander. 

2  double  boilers,  1-quart  size 
and  2-quart  size. 


WOODENWARE 


Flour-sieve. 

Cover  for  flour-barrel. 

Molding-board. 

Board  on  which  to  cut  meats. 

Rolling-pin. 


Board  on  which  to  cut  bread, 
and  3  boards  to  use  on  cook- 
ing-table. 

6  wooden  spoons. 

Vegetable-masher 


Chopping-bowl. 


EARTHENWARE 


6  bowls,  ranging  from  1-quart 

size  to  6-quart  size. 
6  white  bowls,  ranging  from 

1-pint  size  to  1-quart  size. 


6  cups  and  saucers. 

6  white  pitchers  of  various 

sizes. 
12  dinner-plates. 


62  HOME  ECONOMICS 

12  breakfast-plates.  2  or  3  pudding-dishes  of  va- 
Several   platters  and   small        rious  sizes. 

dishes  to  use  in  putting  Molds. 

away  food. 

STONEWARE 

Several  pots  of  various  sizes    Jugs  for  molasses,  vinegar, 
for  use  in  keeping  butter,         etc. 
salt-pork,  moist  cake,  etc. 

MISCELLANEOUS 

Vegetable-slicer.  Strong  iron  spoons. 

Palette-knife.  Lemon-squeezer. 

Bread-knife.  Good  scales. 

Butcher's  knife.  Mortar  and  pestle. 

Vegetable-knives.  Coffee-mill. 

Large  fork.  Tea-pot. 
Common  knives  and  forks.        Coffee-pot. 

Egg-beaters.  Funnel. 

Steel  dish-cloth.  Salt-,    flour-,    and    pepper- 
Steel  skewers.  dredgers. 

Soap-shaker.  Ice-pick. 

Teaspoons.  Skimmer. 

Table-spoons.  Cake-turner. 
Can-opener. 

All  cooking  utensils  should  be  of  as  simple  construction 
as  possible,  but  the  material  and  workmanship  must  be  of 
the  best.     This  is  the  wisest  economy  in  the  long  run. 

Nearly  all  tin  utensils  are  made  by  pressing  thin  sheets 
How  tin     of  sheet-iron  into  the  required  shapes,  which  are 
utensils     then  dipped  into  a  bath  of  liquid  tin.     Cheap  tin- 
are  m    e.    ware  jg  ma(je  0£  a  p0or>  \[ght  qUaiity  of  sheet-iron, 

and  has  merely  a  thin  plating  of  tin,  which  soon  wears  off, 


\ 


\ 


FURNISHING  53 

making  the  utensils  useless.     If  tin  is  cleaned  with  a  gritty 
substance,  like  sand,  or  scraped  with  a  sharp  instrument, 
like  a  knife  or  steel  skewer,  the  thin  layer  of  tin     cleaning 
is  apt  to  be  cut  through  to  the  sheet-iron,  and      tin  with 
the  result  is  fine  lines  of  rust  on  the  article.       sand" 

It  is  always  best  to  buy  bloik-tm,  as  then  you  are  sure  of 
getting  a  pure,  substantial  article.   Utensils  made     B1  kt. 
of  heavy  block-tin  cost  two  or  three  times  as  much 
as  those  of  poor,  light,  and  often  impure  tin,  but  they  will 
wear  five  or  six  times  as  well. 

Enameled  wares,  such  as  granite-ware,  blue  enamels,  etc., 
are  made  of  iron,  more  or  less  heavy,  coated  with  a  prepara- 
tion which  is  allowed  to  dry  and  is  then  fused  at 
a  high  temperature.  These  articles  differ  greatly  Howenam- 
in  quality,  as  is  the  case  also  with  the  tinware.  In  are  made, 
purchasing  any  kind  of  enameled  ware,  each  piece 
should  be  examined  carefully  to  see  that  the  en-     Grades  of 

fin  fl-TTifilPfi 

amel  is  perfectly  smooth.     If  it  is  cracked  or       ware. 
chipped  in  the  least,  reject  it,  for  it  will  not  wear 
well.     Manufacturers  separate  all  such  pieces  from  the  per- 
fect ware  and  sell  them  as  seconds.    Dealers  will  often  assure 
you  that  these  seconds  are  just  as  good  as  the  perfect  ware, 
except  in  appearance ;  but  this  is  not  true. 

All  enameled  ware  should  be  made  of  a  firm,  unbending 
material.     The  slightest  bend  causes  the  enamel  to  crack, 
and  it  then  chips  off.   See  that  stew-pans  and  other     nuaijtjeg 
utensils  in  granite-ware  or  blue  and  white  enam-    necessary 
els  are  firm  and  of  good  weight.     Enameled     ^*n*m" 
spoons  are  not  satisfactory,  because  they  are  apt 
to  bend  and  crack.     For  all  stirring  and  beating  the  wooden 
spoons  are  best.     When  a  large,  strong  spoon  is  required, 
well-tinned  iron  spoons  are  the  most  satisfactory.     Measur- 
ing-spoons should  be  well-plated  table-spoons  of  the  usual 
size. 

Ironware  is  most  satisfactory  for  many  purposes.    The 


54  HOME  ECONOMICS 

only  objection  to  it  is  its  weight  and  the  extra  work  needed 

to  keep  it  clean.     The  longer  iron  is  used,  the 

Advan-      smoother  and  more  valuable  it  becomes.     Next 

ironware,    to  copper,  it  is  the  best  material  for  retaining 

heat,  and  for  this  reason  it  is  well  to  have  a  few 

stew-pans  and  the  soup-kettle  of  iron. 

Porcelain-        Porcelain-lined  kettles  are  very  good,  if  properly 

lined ket-     treated;  but  if  abused,  the  lining  soon  breaks  and 

es*        the  kettle  is  useless. 
Copper  Copper  requires  too  much  care,  and  is  too  heavy, 

ntensils.     ^QY  uge  jn  ^e  ordinary  household. 

The  yellow  earthenware  is  generally  finished  very  smoothly, 

and  makes  excellent  mixing-bowls.     It  is  made  of  a  softer 

paste,  and  is  fired  at  a  lower  temperature,  than 

Yellow      the  white  stone  china,  and  so  breaks  more  easily. 

ware.       Therefore,  although  the  first  cost  of  the  white 

stone  china  is  greater,  its  durability  makes  it 

cheaper  in  the  end. 

Receptacles  for  food  should  be  made  of  a  substance  that 

will  not  harbor  insects.     Tin,  stone,  earthenware,  and  glass 

Recep-      are  the  best  materials  for  this  purpose.     Wooden 

tacies  for    receptacles  should  only  be  used  when  these  other 

materials  are  too  costly  or  are  impracticable. 

Stoneware  and  earthenware  absorb  fats,  and  tin  does 

not;  hence  it  is  best  to  use  tin  pails  for  holding  the  various 

Stone- and     kinds  of  fats. 

.earthen-  Glass  jars  are  excellent  for  holding  small  quan- 
walefalJ"  tities  of  such  groceries  as  are  not  injured  by  light, 
as,  for  example,  rice,  currants,  raisins,  etc.  Bread, 
cake,  crackers,  and  ginger-snaps  will  retain  their  crispness 
and  freshness  if  kept  in  tin  receptacles,  while  if  they  are 
kept  in  stone  jars  they  will  become  moist. 

Taken  all  in  all,  tin  makes  the  best  receptacles  for  holding 
all  cereals,  dry  legumes,  sugar,  etc.  The  various  receptacles 
in  which  these  stores  are  kept  should  be  plainly  labeled. 


FURNISHING  55 

Galvanized  iron  is  used  for  many  articles  about  the  house 
for  which  a  strong  material  that  will  not  rust  is  required. 
Therefore  the  ash-barrel,  garbage-pail,  and  refrig-  Galvanized 
erator-pan  should  be  made  of  galvanized  iron.  iron- 

The  refrigerator  should  be  chosen  for  its  simplicity  of 
construction  and  its  sanitary  arrangements.  When  one 
lives  at  a  great  distance  from  the  markets,  the  re-  The  refrig- 
frigerator  should  be  of  generous  size.  In  such  a  erator. 
case,  if  the  household  be  large,  a  small  ice-chest  for  fish  is 
quite  desirable. 

In  the  list  of  utensils  given,  only  such  articles  have  been 
mentioned  as  would  be  required  by  a  family  living  in  a 
moderate  way.     Of  course  people  who  keep  a  lux- 
urious table  will  require  many  things  not  mentioned      maybe8 
here,  and,  on  the  other  hand,  people  living  in  a    adapted  to 
small  way  may  cut  down  the  list  to  suit  their  cir-      n^fng, 
cumstances.    Whether  the  mode  of  living  is  plain 
or  sumptuous,  what  has  been  said  of  the  quality  of  the  uten- 
sils remains  true. 

How  to  arrange  the  covers  of  the  saucepans  is  always  a 
problem.      There  is  nothing  to  hang  them   by,  and  one 
rarely  has  shelf-room  enough  for  them.     I  have 
found  that  a  long  rack,  such  as  is  placed  under  the    . *,]["*  to 

7      .      .  .   r  hold  sauce- 

meat  when  roasting  in  the  oven,  is  an  excellent  con-    pan  covers. 

trivance  for  holding  these  covers.  Place  it  in  one 
corner  of  the  shelf,  and  slip  the  edges  of  the  covers  between 
the  bars,  arranging  the  covers  according  to  size,  the  largest 
at  one  end,  and  the  smallest  at  the  other.  This  little  con- 
venience economizes  both  space  and  time,  for  a  cover  can  be 
found  or  replaced  without  a  moment's  delay. 

VENTILATION 

An  important  duty  of  the  housekeeper  in  cold  weather  is 
to  see  that  the  house  is  properly  aired  and  ventilated. 


56  HOME  ECONOMICS 

Every  room  that  is  occupied  should  be  thoroughly  aired 
each  day.  One  can  keep  warmer  in  a  room  filled  with  pure 
air  that  has  a  temperature  of  65°  than  in  a  room  where  the 
temperature  is  much  higher  and  the  air  impure.  The 
temperature  of  the  house  should  not  exceed  70°. 

The  rooms  and  hallways  of  the  main  portion  of  the  house 
should  be  thrown  together  as  much  as  possible,  thus  keeping 
an  equal  temperature  throughout  the  house,  and 
^ture™  insuring  a  free  circulation  of  air.  If  there  is  a 
window  in  the  upper  hall,  or  in  a  room  opening  off 
the  hall,  which  may  be  kept  slightly  open,  it  will  help  keep 
the  air  of  the  house  pure.  The  hot  air  that  comes  from  the 
M  thod  of  ^ urnace  supplies  the  house,  to  a  certain  extent, 
obtaining  a  with  fresh  air.  If  the  house  is  heated  by  steam 
circulation  or  j^  water,  this  supply  is  lacking,  and  there  is 
greater  need  of  some  openings  that  will  admit 
pure  air.  A  piece  of  board  about  two  or  three  inches  wide, 
and  as  long  as  the  window  is  broad,  may  be  placed  under  the 
lower  sash  of  one  or  two  windows,  as,  for  example,  the  hall 
windows.  This  will  give  access  to  fresh  air  without  making 
a  draft,  and  is  a  good  arrangement  for  bedroom  windows  in 
extremely  cold  weather. 

There  are  patent  ventilators  that  fit  under  the  sash  in 
this  manner,  which  are  very  satisfactory.  They  are  in  the 
form  of  a  narrow  box,  one  side  of  which  has  a  number  of 
small  openings,  the  top  being  covered  with  fine  wire  netting. 
There  are  slides  that  may  be  drawn  over  this  netting  when 
one  wishes  to  exclude  all  or  part  of  the  air.  These  boxes 
are  placed  under  the  sash,  with  the  openings  on  the  outside. 

Many  people  cannot  sleep  with  the  windows  open  at  night 
or  in  damp  weather.  A  screen  which  will  admit  pure  air, 
Screen  for  and  yet  keep  out  the  dampness,  should  be  provided 
excluding  f0r  such  cases,  and  may  be  made  in  this  manner: 
ampness.  pagj.en  ^n  Angora  flannel  to  a  frame  similar  to 
those  used  for  mosquito  nettings.   This  may  be  placed  in  the 


FURNISHING  57 

window  at  night,  after  the  sash  is  raised.  In  the  morning 
you  will  find  the  inside  of  the  screen  dry,  while  the  outside 
will  be  covered  with  moisture,  showing  that  dampness  was 
kept  out  of  the  room  at  the  same  time  that  fresh  air  was 
admitted. 

There  are  a  few  things  that  one  should  keep  in  mind  in 
order  that  the  ventilation  of  the  house  may  be  done  intelli- 
gently. 

All  gases  and  moisture  expand  and  rise  as  they  ne^Sarye 
are  heated.  for  inteiii- 

All  gases  and  moisture  contract  and  have  a  Nation!" 
tendency  to  fall  as  they  are  chilled. 

Some  of  the  gases  are  at  the  ordinary  temperature  lighter 
than  air,  while  others  are  heavier.  Carbonic-acid  gas  (car- 
bon dioxid)  is  about  one  and  one  half  times  as  heavy  as  air. 

Remsen  says:  "Pure  air  may  be  defined  as  air  which  con- 
sists of  nitrogen,  oxygen,  and  carbon  dioxid  in  the  propor- 
tions stated  above  "  (about  £  nitrogen,  i  oxygen, 
and  to ooo  carbon  dioxid),  "together  with  some    0fpU^eSr. 
water-vapor,  ammonia,  ozone,  and  hydrogen  dioxid, 
and  nothing  of  an  injurious  nature."     It  is  evident  from 
what  has  been  said  that  there  is  constant  danger  of  con- 
tamination from  natural  causes.   The  most  common 
cause  of  contamination  is  the  breathing  of  human    Da£Se?  of_ 
beings  in  rooms  which  are  inadequately  supplied        tion. 
with  air.    The  breathing  process  involves  the  using 
up  of  oxygen  and  the  giving  off  of  carbon  dioxid  and  small 
quantities  of  organic  matter  which  is  undergoing  decomposi- 
tion.  If  the  quantity  of  oxygen  is  reduced  below  a  certain  limit 
the  air  becomes  unfit  for  breathing  purposes,  and  evil  effects 
follow.     An  ordinary  inhalation  will  not  then  be  sufficient 
to  supply  the  blood  with  the  oxygen  necessary  to  purify  it, 
and  the  system  will  begin  to  suffer.     Headache,  drowsiness, 
and  a  general  sense  of  discomfort  follow.     The  ill  effects  of 
breathing  the  air  of  a  badly  ventilated  room  occupied  by  a 


58  HOME  ECONOMICS 

number  of  human  beings  are,  however,  due  for  the  most 
part  to  the  presence  of  the  small  quantities  of  decomposing 

organic  matters  which  are  given  off  from  the  lungs 

wSi°fS-    with  the  carbon  dioxid  and  the  gases.    These  act 

low  the      as  poisons.     They  have  been  thrown  off  from  the 

breathing     iungS  because  they  are  unfit  for  use,  and  when 

air.        they  are  taken  back  again  the  normal  processes 

of  the  body  are  interfered  with.  The  subject  of 
ventilation  has  been  so  thoroughly  discussed  of  late  years 
that  great  improvement  has  been  made  in  the  arrangements 
for  supplying  pure  air  to  dwelling-apartments  and  audience- 
halls;  but  there  is  still  room  for  improvement.  Fortunately, 
in  most  buildings  there  is  one  source  of  supply  of  pure  air 
which  is  independent  of  the  architect's  plans.  This  is  the 
diffusion  of  gases  through  the  porous  materials  of  which  the 
buildings  are  constructed.  There  is  also  a  good  deal  of 
ventilation  through  the  cracks  and  other  apertures  which 
are  always  to  be  found  in  our  buildings. 

Under  some  conditions  which  are  not  thoroughly  under- 
stood the  air  becomes  badly  contaminated  by  the  decomposi- 

tion  of  animal  and  vegetable  matter.     Air  thus 

contami-     contaminated   may  cause   specific   diseases,  and 

nated       some  of  these  are  spoken  of  as  being  caused  by 

Cai^ase.  *"    mala7"ia>  a  word  which  signifies  simply  bad  air. 

"What  it  is  in  this  bad  air  which  causes  these 
diseases  has  not  yet  been  determined;  but  it  seems  probable, 
from  researches  on  other  diseases,  that  there  are  in  the  air 
microscopic  germs  which  have  the  power  to  develop  in  the 
body  and  then  to  cause  the  symptoms  which  are  referred  to 
as  malaria.  Germs  of  one  kind  and  another  are  undoubtedly 
present  in  great  variety,  and  they  play  important  parts  in 
connection  with  the  life  and  health  of  man,  and  also  in  the 
destruction  of  plants  and  animals  in  which  life  has  become 
extinct." 

In  ventilating  a  room  the  temperature  must  be  taken  into 


FURNISHING  59 

consideration.     Whether  a  room  is  warm  or  cold,  it  is  always 

safe  and  well  to  have  a  window  opened  at  the  top.  If 

the  room  is  very  warm  this  is  absolutely  necessary,     tu«>Pcon- 

because  the  heated  air  rises.    If  the  room  is  cold    sidered  in 

all  the  carbon  dioxid  does  not  rise ;  therefore  there     ve£jllat~ 

should  be  an  opening  in  the  lower  part  of  the  room 

for  the  escape  of  the  gas  and  the  admission  of  fresh  air. 

In  sleeping-rooms,  which  usually  are  cool,  the  lower  part 
of  a  window  should  be  opened,  and  the  top  also      how  to 
should  be  let  down.     If  in  summer  the  windows     ventilate 
are  provided  with  a  netting,  it  is  a  good  arrange-     deeping- 
ment  to  have  the  entire  window  covered;  then  the 
sash  may  be  raised  and  lowered  at  will. 

The  kitchen  windows  should  be  protected  in  the  same 
manner.     At  all  seasons  of  the  year,  while  work  is  going  on 
in  kitchen  and  laundry,  the  windows  should  be  let 
down  from  the  top.     By  this  precaution,  not  only    of  i^chen. 
is  the  air  of  these  rooms  kept  pure  and  sweet,  but 
odors  are  prevented  from  getting  into  other  parts  of  the  house. 

The  entire  house  should  have  a  thorough  airing  every 
morning.     In  this  general  airing  the  health  and 
comfort  of  the  various  members  of  the  household    ^ou^dbe 
must  be  taken  into  consideration.     No  one  should     ventilated 
be  exposed  to  a  draft  or  chill.     There  is  little  dan-     JJeJJ  da£ 
ger  in  this  to  the  healthy  person  who  is  moving         iy. 
briskly  about,  but  with  the  weak  and  delicate  it 
is  another  matter.     Some  rooms,  therefore,  must  be  kept 
warm  while  the  rest  of  the  house  is  undergoing  the  airing. 

The  following  plan  for  the  daily  airing  of  the 
house  might  be  observed.  tSfdaUy 

1.  The  first  thing  in  the  morning,  open  the  win-      airing, 
dows  in  the  lower  hall,  sitting-room,  and  dining- 
room.     In  winter  this  should  be  done  for  a  few  minutes  only. 

2.  As  soon  as  the  sleeping-rooms  are  vacated,  open  the 
windows,  take  the  coverings  from  the  bed,  one  piece  at  a 


60  HOME  ECONOMICS 

time,  and  spread  them  about  the  room  where  they  will  get 
the  full  effect  of  a  current  of  air.  Beat  the  pillows  and 
place  them  near  the  windows.  Turn  the  mattress  over  the 
foot  of  the  bed,  that  the  air  may  circulate  all  around  it. 

3.  The  sleeping-rooms  should  air  for  at  least  an  hour  even 
in  the  coldest  weather. 

4.  Open  windows  in  the  upper  and  lower  halls,  and  also 
open  the  outside  door,  if  it  is  safe  to  do  so.     After  break- 
fast air  the  dining-room,  which  should  also  have 

tages  of  a"  a  thorough  airing  after  each  meal.  Air  the  other 
generous  parts  of  the  house  as  the  comfort  and  convenience 
SWalr  °      °f  the  family  will  permit. 

through-         It  should  be  remembered  that  a  great  volume 

house?      °f  Pure  a*r  sweePmg  through  the  house  will  in  ten 

minutes  remove  the  impure  air  more  effectually 

than  airing  for  an  hour  or  more  with  windows  only  partly 

opened  and  doors  closed. 

A  knowledge  of  the  nature  and  action  of  oxygen  is  essen- 
tial to  an  intelligent  understanding  of  the  valv£  and  necessity 
of  pure  air  in  our  homes  and  elsewhere.  Any  good  book  on 
chemistry  will  explain  this  so  clearly  that  any  one  even  with- 
out a  knowledge  of  chemistry  can  comprehend  it  readily. 


CHAPTER   IV 

DAILY  ROUTINE  OF  HOUSEHOLD  WORK 

General  directions  for  sweeping  and  dusting.  To  clean  matting.  How  to 
wash  windows.  Cleaning  copper  and  brasses.  How  to  clean  painted 
woodwork.  Care  of  window-sashes.  Care  of  dining-room.  Care  of  ta- 
bleware. Care  of  kitchen  and  pantries.  Care  of  the  floors.  Care  of 
kitchen  utensils.  Tinware.  Woodenware.  The  tea  kettle.  Tea-pots 
and  coffee-pots.  Care  of  the  refrigerator.  The  sink.  To  clean  an  iron 
sink.    Care  of  cellar.    Household  refuse.     Care  of  the  plumbing. 

The  household  machinery  should  be  kept  in  such  order  that 
no  member  of  the  family  shall  be  uncomfortably  conscious 
of  its  working.  The  daily  attention  to  the  little  duties  which, 
small  in  themselves,  in  the  aggregate  take  much  time  and 
thought,  is  what  keeps  the  machinery  working  smoothly. 
Here  the  stitch  in  time  which  saves  nine  is  fully  demonstrated. 

Method  and  order  are  two  most  important  fac- 
tors in  the  management  of  the  household.   A  place    "The  n}°*tt 
for  everything,  and  everything  in  its  place,  is  a  rule      factors, 
the  strict  observance  of  which  will  insure  order. 

If  the  work  of  the  household  is  systematized,  each  day  will 
see  its  allotted  tasks  accomplished  and  the  work  of  the  fol- 
lowing day  unhampered.     It  is  only  in  this  way       Work 
that  the  household  machinery  can  be  run  without     should  be 

friction.  systema- 

tized. 

Each  member  of  the  family  is  a  part  of  the  work- 
ing machinery,  and  it  is  important  that  each  one  should  per- 

61 


62  HOME  ECONOMICS 

form  his  or  her  part  cheerfully  and  promptly.  It  is  no  kind- 
ness to  child  or  adult  to  let  him  shirk  his  duties.  Life  is 
made  up  of  little  things,  and  they  form  the  character. 

Perhaps  no  two  housekeepers  follow  the  same  plan  in  the 
daily  routine  of  the  household  work.  The  mode  of  living, 
individual  ideas  as  to  the  best  system,  etc.,  govern  every 
housekeeper. 

For  the  benefit  of  the  inexperienced,  a  simple  outline  of 

the  daily  program  is  given  as  a  suggestion.     As  the  method 

of  doing  the  work  is  described  in  separate  sections, 

worktoaid    ^e  general  outline  is  all  that  is  necessary  here. 

inexperi-         1.  Make  the  fires,  and  air  the  dining-room  and 

enced        hall> 

house- 
keeper. 2.  Prepare  the  breakfast  and  set  the  table. 

3.  Put  the  bedrooms  to  air  while  the  family 

is  at  breakfast. 

4.  Remove  the  breakfast-dishes;  put  away  the  food.  Sort 
the  dishes  and  put  to  soak  all  dishes  and  utensils  that  have 
had  food  in  them  which  would  be  likely  to  stick. 

5.  Put  dining-room  and  sitting-room  in  order,  airing  them 
well. 

6.  Wash  the  dishes,  and  put  the  kitchen  and  pantries  in 
order.  Prepare  dishes  that  require  slow  cooking,  and  put 
them  to  cook. 

7.  Make  the  beds  and  put  sleeping-rooms  and  bath-room 
in  order. 

8.  Trim  the  lamps. 

9.  Dust  halls  and  stairs;  sweep  piazzas  and  sidewalk. 
Make  the         10*  ^°  ^ne  special  work  of  the  day. 

work  light        On  washing  and  ironing  days  make  the  general 

°ndayfh"     work  as  1J£ht  and  simPle  as  possible,  unless  a 
regular  laundress  is  employed. 
If  each  member  of  the  family  will  do  something  to  lighten 
the  labor  of  the  maids,  and  the  meals  are  simple  and  hot,  the 
work  will  go  on  smoothly. 


DAILY  ROUTINE  OF  HOUSEHOLD   WORK  63 


GENERAL    DIRECTIONS    FOR   SWEEPING    AND   DUSTING 

When  cleaning  is  to  be  done,  it  will  pay  to  take  ample  time 
for  doing  it  well.  A  house  may  be  made  to  look  clean  and 
orderly  when  in  fact  it  is  quite  the  reverse.  _-    ti 

A  room  with  a  polished  floor  may  be  kept  per-      to  clean 
fectly  clean  all  the  year  round  with  half  the  trouble     t110*0^11- 
that  one  has  to  expend  where  floors  are  carpeted. 
Everything  possible  should  be  taken  out  of  a  carpeted  room, 
first  brushing  and  dusting  each  piece  thoroughly. 

Cover  the  heavy  pieces  of  furniture  with  cloths  kept  for 
this  purpose.  Then  dust  the  pictures,  using  a  soft  feather 
duster  for  the  frames,  and  a  coarse  brush  for  the 
backs.  Cover  all  the  pictures,  mirrors,  clocks,  ?e^aJa" 
etc.,  with  pieces  of  coarse  unbleached  cotton.  (It  sweeping, 
will  be  a  great  convenience  if  a  number  of  these 
cloths  are  kept  for  covering  all  the  furniture  and  ornaments 
that  cannot  easily  be  moved.)  Close  the  doors  and  open  the 
windows. 

It  is  sometimes  a  good  plan  to  scatter  damp  paper  or  damp 
bran  over  a  carpet  that  has  become  more  than  ordinarily  dusty; 
then  begin  to  sweep,  holding  the  broom  almost 
perpendicular  and  taking  short  strokes.     Sweep    gJjSjjh? 
in  one  general  direction,  then  take  up  the  dirt. 

Brush  the  dust  from  every  part  of  the  frames  and  ledges 
of  windows  and  doors,  using  a  medium-sized  brush,  such  as 
a  paint-brush,  for  the  moldings  and  corners,  and  finish  with 
a  soft  cloth.     Cheese-cloth  makes  a  good  duster. 

Cover  the  broom  with  a  clean  piece  of  flannel  or     5S|im5 
cotton  flannel,  and  brush  the  ceiling  and  walls,      ceiling, 
using  a  downward  stroke  on  the  walls.   Brush  the 
baseboards.    Next,  brush  the  edges  and  corners  of  the  carpet 
with  a  short  corn-broom,  and  sweep  the  carpet  a  second  time. 

While  the  dust  is  settling,  wash  the  windows.     When  the 


64  HOME   ECONOMICS 

windows  are  finished,  take  the  cloths  off  the  furniture  and 
pictures,  and  dust  the  room.     Wipe  spots  from  the  paint  and 

woodwork.  The  carpet  should  then  be  wiped  over 
Windows,  yfifa  a  cjean  doth  wrung  out  of  ammonia  and  wa- 
woodwork.    ter,  using  two  tablespoonfuls  of  ammonia  to  four 

quarts  of  tepid  water.   Rinse  the  cloth  frequently 

treatnfnt     ™  th*S  water* 

of  carpet.        Put  up  the  hangings  and  lay  the  rugs  in  place ; 
bring  back  the  furniture  and  ornaments.     If  the 
woodwork  of  any  of  the  furniture  needs  polishing  or  oiling, 
now  is  the  time  to  do  it. 

If  there  is  a  fireplace  in  the  room,  all  the  brass  or  steel 
about  it  should  be  removed  before  the  room  is  swept.   The 
Care  of      grate  and  fireplace  should  then  be  cleaned,  and 
fireplace     the  hearth  properly  brushed.    It  should  be  washed 
.  and         after  the  carpet  is  swept.     The  brass  or  steel 
must  be  polished  in  the  kitchen  or  laundry  be- 
fore it  is  replaced. 

If  there  are  registers  in  the  floor,  lift  them  before  you 
begin  to  sweep.  Have  a  large  paper  spread  on  the  carpet,  and 
brush  the  registers  on  this.  Wipe  the  hot-air  pipe 
registers.  to  remove  all  dust.  Lay  a  newspaper  over  the 
opening,  and  place  the  registers,  upside  down, 
over  it.  The  paper  is  to  be  removed  when  the  sweeping  is 
finished  and  the  registers  are  put  in  place. 

Rugs  and  Draperies.— The  draperies  which  were  taken  down 
when  the  room  was  being  prepared  for  sweeping  should  be  well 
shaken  in  the  open  air,  and,  if  possible,  hung  on  lines  out  of 
doors.  Brush  heavy  material,  like  velvet,  plush,  brocade,  etc. 
The  rugs  should  be  laid  face  downward  on  the  grass,  or  on 
a  smooth  wooden  surface,  and  beaten  with  a  ratan.  Then 
they  must  be  turned  face  upward  and  brushed.  Hang  them 
on  the  line  to  air.  If  there  is  no  grass  or  plain  surface  on 
which  to  beat  the  rugs,  hang  them  on  the  line  at  once,  shake 
out  the  loose  dust,  and  beat  with  the  ratan. 


DAILY  ROUTINE  OF  HOUSEHOLD   WORK  65 

It  is  a  bad  habit  to  hold  the  rug  at  one  end  and  shake  it. 
The  weight  of  the  rug  loosens  the  threads  at  the  upper  end; 
hence  the  raveling  near  the  borders. 

Furniture.— Upholstered  furniture  should  be  dusted  with 
a  brush,  and  wiped  with  an  old  silk  duster.  The  woodwork 
must  be  rubbed  with  a  soft  cloth.  If  there  is  carving  on  the 
woodwork,  it  should  be  dusted  with  a  brush. 

When  the  woodwork  of  the  furniture  requires  polishing, 
wipe  it  with  a  soft  sponge,  or  cloth,  which  has  been  wrung 
out  of  tepid  water  or  warm  milk.  Wipe  dry,  and  then  polish 
with  encaustic  No.  1,  or  simply  oil  with  the  turpentine  and 
oil.  Apply  the  polish  with  a  soft  cloth,  using  a  circular  mo- 
tion. The  cloth  should  be  only  slightly  moistened  with  the 
mixture.  Polish  with  a  soft  cloth,  rubbing  with  the  grain  of 
the  wood.  All  stains  must  be  removed  from  the  wood  be- 
fore it  is  polished. 

Leather  Furniture. — Dust  the  furniture  carefully,  and  wash 
the  leather  with  a  soft  cloth  wrung  out  of  hot  milk,  rubbing 
until  dry;  then  polish  with  encaustic  No.  1,  putting  the  pol- 
ish on  lightly.  Polish  with  a  soft  cloth;  if  the  leather  is 
dark,  it  may  be  polished  with  oil  and  turpentine. 

Marble,  Tiles,  etc.— Marble  is  easily  destroyed,  and  most 
of  the  injuries  it  receives  are  difficult  to  repair. 

Acids  dissolve  marble  readily;  the  stronger  the  acid,  the 
more  rapid  its  action.     The  smooth,  fine  finish  given  to  mar- 
ble is  not  only  for  beauty,  but  also  for  protection. 
If  this  finish  is  destroyed,  the  rough  surface  is  more     ^^°8n0°f 
easily  soiled  and  stained.     Even  the  mildest  acid      marble, 
will  remove  the  polish.     A  piece  of  lemon  left  on 
a  basin,  mantel-shelf,  or  table  for  even  a  few  moments  will 
roughen  the  surface  of  the  marble. 

As  all  acids  are  neutralized  by  an  alkali,  the  latter  should 
be  immediately  poured  on  the  marble  when  an  acid  To  neutra- 
has  been  spilled  on  it.  There  are  so  many  alkalis  gp^^n 
at  hand  in  nearly  every  household— ammonia,  soda,      marble. 

5 


66  HOME  ECONOMICS 

borax,  for  example— that  this  is  not  difficult  to  do.     If  the 

acid  has  remained  long  enough  on  the  marble  to  dissolve  the 

surface,  the  finish  may  be  restored  in  a  measure  by  rubbing 

the  rough  spot  with  pumice-stone  and  water.     A  generous 

bed  of  the  pumice-stone  should  be  spread  on  the  injured 

place;  this  should  then  be  wet  with  water  and  rubbed  with 

a  large,  flat  stone.     It  takes  a  great  deal  of  pressure  and 

much  rubbing  to  get  a  smooth  surface  again.     The  work 

might  be  done  from  time  to  time,  say  for  twenty  minutes  or 

half  an  hour  every  day,  until  the  polish  returns. 

Stains  on  marble  are  often  difficult  to  remedy, 

Difficulty     because  the  agent  used  to  remove  the  stain  might 
of  remov-      .    .  °  .  _  .  . 

ing  staini.    injure  the  marble.    Acids  must,  of  course,  be 

avoided,  but  alkalis  may  be  used  with  safety. 

Oil-  or  grease-spots,  when  of  recent  occurrence,  may  be 
removed  by  absorption  and  neutralization.  Fullers'  earth  and 
French  chalk  are  two  of  the  best  agents  for  absorb- 
oUoTgreafe  mS  grease.  Caustic  soda  or  lye  will  saponify  it 
with  full-  and  so  neutralize  it.  It  is  often  expedient  to  com- 
e^aaeae^ch'    bine  these  two  methods. 

If  grease  is  spilled  on  marble,  make  a  strong,  hot 
solution  of  sal-soda,  and  add  enough  fullers'  earth  to  make 
a  thin  paste;  spread  this  on  the  spot,  and  let  it  remain  for 
twenty-four  hours.  If  the  stain  has  not  fully  disappeared  at 
the  end  of  that  time,  repeat  the  application. 

Wood-ashes  may  also  be  applied  to  grease-spots  with  suc- 
cess. Boil  water  and  wood-ashes  together  for  half  an  hour, 
and  add  enough  whiting  to  make  a  thick  paste.  Spread  this 
on  the  stain  as  directed  for  fullers'  earth. 

The  ordinary  care  of  marble  is  simple  enough.  It  should 
be  washed  with  a  soft  cloth  and  soap  and  water.  If  it  is  very 
much  soiled,  it  may  be  cleaned  with  any  one  of  the  sand  soaps 
or  pumice-stone  and  soap.  If  the  marble  lacks  luster  after 
this  treatment,  polish  it  with  encaustic  No.  1  or  No.  2. 

Tiles  are  cleaned  and  polished  in  the  same  manner. 


DAILY  ROUTINE  OF  HOUSEHOLD  WORK  67 


TO   CLEAN   MATTING 

In  the  care  of  matting,  it  must  be  remembered  that  the 
less  water  used  on  it  the  better,  and  that  all  alkalis  and 
soaps  tend  to  discolor  it. 

Have  a  care  that  nothing  that  will  soil  the  mat-  Substances 
ting  is  dropped  or  spilled  on  it.  tomatting. 

Sweep  the  matting  with  a  soft  brush,  and  then 
go  over  it  with  a  damp  cloth  to  remove  all  dust. 

If  there  are  soiled  spots,  try  to  remove  them  by  rubbing 
with  a  cloth  wrung  out  of  hot  water. 

If  grease  or  oil  has  been  spilled,  make  a  thin  paste  with 
fullers'  earth  and  cold  water,  and  spread  thickly  To  remove 
on  the  spot.  When  this  dries  lay  a  paper  over  it,  grease  or 
and  let  it  stand  two  or  three  days.     Brush  off  the      oU  from 

^  matting. 

dry  earth,  and  the  stain  will  have  disappeared. 

Should  water  be  spilled  on  a  matting,  wipe  it  as    To  remove 
dry  as  possible,  and  let  the  windows  stand  open     moisture 
until  the  matting  is  dry;  or,  if  the  weather  is  too    ftog"*>t' 
cold  or  damp  for  this,  dry  the  matting  by  apply- 
ing heat.     Lay  a  dry  cloth  over  the  wet  place,  and  go  over 
it  with  a  hot  flat-iron  until  all  moisture  is  removed. 


HOW   TO    WASH   WINDOWS 

Remove  all  dust  from  the  windows,  both  inside  and  out- 
side. If  the  woodwork  requires  cleaning,  do  this  before  the 
glass  is  washed.  Use  a  wooden  skewer  and  a  cloth  to  re- 
move dust  from  corners  and  grooves. 

The  glass  may  be  washed  with  clear  water,  water    Materials 
in  which  has  been  put  a  little  liquid  ammonia,  soda,       for  the 
or  soap,  or  it  may  be  cleaned,  like  paint,  with    ™£j^s°f 
whiting.     The  essential  thing  is  to  get  a  clean, 
perfectly  polished  glass. 


68  HOME  ECONOMICS 

Have  plenty  of  clean,  soft  cloths  and  some  soft  paper; 
crumpled  newspapers  answer  very  well.  Have  a  pail  of  tepid 
water.  Dip  the  washing-cloth  in  this  and  then  squeeze  al- 
most dry.  Rub  the  glass  with  the  damp  cloth,  rinsing  it  fre- 
quently. After  all  the  dirt  has  been  removed  in  this  manner, 
rub  dry  with  a  clean,  soft  cloth,  and  then  polish  with  soft 
paper.     Be  careful  to  get  all  the  corners  clean. 

If  the  glass  is  cleaned  with  whiting,  make  a  thin  cream  of 
water  and  whiting.  Dip  a  clean  cloth  in  this,  and  polish  the 
glass  as  you  would  silver.  Rub  off  the  whiting  with  soft 
paper,  and  polish  with  clean  soft  paper. 

The  whiting  may  be  wet  with  dilute  alcohol  or  household 
ammonia.    This  mixture  cleans  the  glass  quickly. 

f  The  secret  of  cleaning  windows  satisfactorily  is 
success  in  to  have  the  cloths  clean,  to  use  plenty  of  them, 
cleaning  an(j  not  ^0  use  water  so  freely  that  it  drips  from 
windows.  . 

pane  or  sash. 

CLEANING   COPPER   AND   BRASSES 

There  are  so  many  excellent  preparations  on  the  market 
for  cleaning  copper  and  brasses  that  it  is  not  necessary  to 
make  the  polishes  at  home  for  this  purpose.  At  the  same 
time,  it  is  well  to  know  how  various  substances  affect  these 
metals,  and  why  we  use  them. 

Acids  clean  copper  and  brasses  readily;  but  unless  all 
traces  of  them  are  immediately  removed,  the  metal  will  tar- 
Effects  of  n*sn  quickly-  Whenever  the  simple  acids,  or  acids 
acids  on  and  salt,  are  used,  they  must  be  washed  off  at 
copper  and  once  wjth  pure  water.  If  the  articles  so  cleaned 
are  boilers,  andirons,  ornaments,  etc.,  the  clean- 
ing should  be  followed  by  a  rubbing  with  rottenstone  or 
tripoli  and  oil.  After  a  thorough  treatment  of  this  kind, 
brasses  and  copper  articles  will  remain  untarnished  for  a 
long  time.     If  a  cleaning  preparation  contains  an  acid,— 


DAILY  ROUTINE  OP  HOUSEHOLD  WORK  69 

and  nearly  all  the  preparations  on  the  market  do,— the  clean- 
ing should  be  followed  by  an  application  of  whiting,  which  will 
neutralize  the  acid  and  preserve  the  surface  from  tarnishing. 

Cleaning  preparations  that  contain  naphtha  or  an  acid  ac- 
complish the  work  much  more  quickly  than  when  oil  and 
rottenstone  only  are  used. 

Brasses  cleaned  with  oil  and  rottenstone  alone,  tainedby 
or  with  tripoli,  will  have  a  soft,  rich  yellow  tone,  different 
When  acids  and  naphtha  are  used,  the  color  is  ^ons*" 
whiter  and,  of  course,  less  rich. 

Bearing  all  these  points  in  mind,  one  may  select     Selection 
the  cleaning  substance  that  will  give  the  result    gu^taiSef 
aimed  at,  be  that  the  durability  of  the  work,  the 
quickness  with  which  it  may  be  accomplished,  or  the  color 
desired. 

To  Clean  with  an  Acid  and  Salt.— Wash  thoroughly  the 
article  which  is  to  be  cleaned.     Mix  common  salt  and  oxalic 
acid  or  vinegar  in  a  saucer.     Dip  a  soft  cloth  in     cieanine 
this,  and  rub  the  surface  until  all  tarnish  is  re-    with  oxalic 
moved.    Wash  the  article  in  plenty  of  water,  and     acid  and 
then  wipe  perfectly  dry.     This  method  is  fre- 
quently used  in  cleaning  cooking  utensils,  in  which  case  the 
greatest  care  must  be  taken  to  wash  the  saucepan,  etc., 
thoroughly  after  the  treatment. 

Brasses  or  copper  that  are  very  much  tarnished  may  be 
washed  in  a  solution  of  sal-soda  to  remove  all  grease,  then 
rubbed  with  acid,  either  oxalic  acid,  lemon-juice,     To  clean 
or  strong  vinegar,  and  washed  thoroughly,  wiping     with  sal- 
dry.     Polish  with  rottenstone  or  tripoli  and  sweet-     80.dda'  *n 
oil,  using  a  woolen  cloth,  and  rubbing  hard.    Wipe 
off  the  oil  and  scouring  mixture,  and  go  over  the  surface 
with  a  dry  flannel  and  dry  tripoli  or  rottenstone;  finish  with 
a  soft,  clean  cloth.     If  the  article  has  not  a  thick  coat  of 
tarnish,  the  washing  with  soda  or  acid  may  be  omitted;  but 
it  is  important  that  the  surface  be  cleaned  from  all  grease. 


70  HOME  ECONOMICS 

The  above  method  should  be  followed  when  any  of  the 
cleaning  preparations  found  in  the  market  are  employed,  ex- 
cept that  whiting  should  be  substituted  for  tripoli,  oil,  or  rot- 
tenstone  in  the  final  polishing. 

Brasses  and  copper  articles  retain  their  brightness,  after 
they  have  been  properly  cleaned,  a  long  time  when  kept  in  a 
dry  atmosphere;  but  when  exposed  to  dampness  they  tarnish 
quickly. 

HOW    TO   CLEAN    PAINTED   WOODWORK 

Painted  and  varnished  surfaces  should  be  treated  with 
great  consideration.  It  is  possible  in  a  few  minutes  to  do 
Chemicals  an  amoun*  °f  damage  that  cannot  be  repaired  in 
should  he  days.  The  careless  use  of  chemicals  on  these  fin- 
Tisedwith  jghes  causes  the  greater  part  of  the  trouble.  If 
we  can  but  fix  in  our  minds  the  effect  some  chem- 
icals have  on  certain  materials,  it  will  help  us  to  use  them 
more  intelligently. 

Paint  is  softened  by  wet  alkalis;  when  the  solution  is 
strong  enough  it  dissolves  the  paint. 

The  alkalis  most  commonly  used  in  the  household  are 

ammonia,  sal-soda,  potash,  and  borax.     The  most  caustic  of 

How  to      these  alkalis  are  potash  and  sal-soda;  the  least 

test  the      caustic  is  borax.     If  we  take  a  board  which  has 

e^Ctu°f     keen  painted  or  varnished,  and  put  a  few  drops 

each  of  a  solution  of  soda,  potash,  ammonia,  and 

borax  on  different  parts,  we  can  see  how  each  affects  the 

paint;  the  stronger  the  solution  of  any  of  them,  of  course 

the  more  quickly  it  will  soften  the  paint.     The  same  kind 

of  a  test  might  be  made  with  a  varnished  surface. 

The  effect,        If  we  now  repeat  the  experiment  on  new  spots, 

added  to     and  almost  as  soon  as  the   liquids   have  been 

alkaline     dropped  on  the  painted  or  varnished  surface  we 

ton^utra1-8    add  a  few  dr0PS  of  oil>  stirrmg  Jt  well>  w©  will  find 

U?e.        that  the  paint  or  varnish  is  only  slightly  dam- 


DAILY  ROUTINE  OF  HOUSEHOLD  WORK 


71 


Lessons  to 
be  learned 
from  these 
experi- 
ments. 


aged.  The  oil  neutralized  the  power  of  the  alkalis,  and  the 
injury  done  to  the  paint  or  varnish  was  the  work  of  the  few 
moments  before  the  oil  was  added.  If,  however,  the  oil  was 
applied  in  too  small  a  quantity  to  wholly  neutralize  the  alkali, 
the  latter  would  continue  its  destructive  work,  but  very 
slowly  and  feebly.  If  a  large  quantity  of  the  oil  is  added 
instantly  when  the  alkaline  solution  is  dropped  on  the  board, 
the  effect  upon  the  finish  will  be  scarcely  perceptible.  We 
have  learned  from  this  simple  experiment: 

1.  That  paints  and  varnishes  may  be  dissolved  by  the 
alkalis  in  common  use  in  the  household,  and  that  the 
stronger  the  solution,  the  more  rapidly  it  acts. 

2.  That  the  destructive  action  of  the  alkali 
may  be  arrested  by  the  application  of  any  oily 
substance. 

If  there  is  not  enough  oil  to  wholly  neutralize 
the  alkali,  the  action  will  go  on  feebly;  but  if  there  is  enough 
oil,  or  an  excess  of  it,  all  destructive  action  is  arrested. 

Putting  this  knowledge  to  a  practical  use,  we  have  been 
taught  that  no  strong  alkali  should  be  put  on  painted  or  var- 
nished surfaces;  that  no  strong  caustic  soaps 
should  be  used  on  paint  or  varnish;  that  in  case 
of  accident  where  an  alkali  is  spilled  on  a  painted 
or  varnished  surface,  some  sort  of  oil  or  fat 
should  be  instantly  poured  on  the  spot.  Gener- 
ally the  oil  nearest  at  hand  is  salad-oil,  and  this 
is  such  a  pure  oil  that  it  is  excellent  for  such  a 
purpose. 

In  cleaning  painted  or  varnished  surfaces  we 
should  keep  in  mind  what  we  have  learned  in 
these  experiments,  and  avoid  the  use  of  alkalis 
and  strong  soaps. 

When  the  paint  is  to  be  cleaned,  have  the  room  thoroughly 
swept  and  dusted,  walls,  ceiling,  grooves,  and  ledges.  Use  a 
painter's  brush  to  remove  the  dust  from  the  grooves  and 


In  case  of 
an  alkaline 
mixture 
being 
spilled  on 
painted  or 
varnished 
surface  add 
oil  in- 
stantly. 

Avoid  use 
of  strong 
soap  or 
alkalis. 


72  HOME  ECONOMICS 

corners.     Mix  some  whiting  and  cold  water  to  the  consistency 

of  thick  cream.    Three  woolen  cloths  and  some  soft  white 

H     to      c°tton  cloths  will  be  necessary.    There  should  also 

dean  paint   be  two  pails,  each  half  filled  with  hot  water,  and 

JJ^n       a  small  wooden  skewer  such  as  butchers  use.   Put 

a  woolen  cloth  in  each  pail  of  water,  and  keep  the 
third  one  dry.  Press  nearly  all  the  water  from  one  of  the 
cloths,  dip  it  in  the  whiting  mixture,  and  begin  cleaning 
the  paint.  Rub  hard,  with  an  upward  and  downward  stroke, 
when  plain  walls  are  being  cleaned;  in  woodwork,  follow  the 
slight  grain  left  by  the  painter's  brush.  Next,  carefully 
wash  off  all  the  whiting,  using  the  water  and  cloth  in  the 
second  pail;  then  wring  the  cloth  dry,  and  wipe  the  surface 
with  this.  Now  rub  dry  with  the  dry  woolen  or  cotton  cloth. 
This  final  rubbing  gives  a  smooth  finish  to  the  paint  that  not 
only  improves  its  appearance,  but  tends  to  keep  it  clean  much 
longer  than  if  the  surface  were  left  half  dried.  All  the 
grooves  and  corners  should  be  cleaned  with  a  bit  of  the  cloth 
on  the  point  of  the  wooden  skewer. 

Begin  at  the  top  and  work  downward,  washing  a  space 
about  a  yard  square.    Never  use  water  enough  to  have  it 

run  on  the  wall  in  little  streams;  this  leaves  a 
Avoid  ns-    streaked  surface. 

ing  too 

muchwa-        If  the  paint  is  very  smoky  or  oily,  a  tablespoon- 

terandiet-    fuj  0f  household  ammonia  may  be  added  to  each 
tingitform  J 

streaks.      gallon  of  water. 

Should  soap  be  preferred  to  the  whiting,  make 
suds  with  it;  but  do  not  rub  soap  on  the  cloth,  except  in  cases 
where  the  suds  will  not  remove  the  dirt. 

Enamel  finishes  require  different  treatment  from  ordinary 
paint.  They  are  finished,  like  fine  varnishes,  by  being  rubbed 
down  with  water  and  tripoli. 

Wipe  off  all  the  dust,  and  then  wipe  with  a  clean 

of  Enamel     woolen  clotn  wrung  as  dry  as  possible  in  hot  water. 

finishes.      Rub  dry  with  a  second  woolen  or  cotton  cloth.  The 


DAILY    ROUTINE   OF  HOUSEHOLD  WORK  73 

dry  rubbing  is  important,  as  it  gives  the  surface  brilliancy. 
Should  there  be  soiled  places  which  the  damp  cloth  will  not 
clean,  put  a  little  wet  powdered  tripoli  on  a  small  piece  of 
flannel,  and  rub  gently  until  the  stain  has  entirely  disap- 
peared. Be  careful  not  to  use  so  much  pressure  that  the 
powder  will  cut  through  the  varnish.  Polish  with  the  dry 
cloth.  Should  you  not  have  the  tripoli,  powdered  pumice- 
stone  will  answer. 

Care  of  Natural-Wood  Finish.—  To  have  the  interior  of  the 
house  finished  in  the  natural  wood  is  a  great  boon  to  the 
housekeeper,  provided  she  takes  proper  care  of  it.  One 
should  avoid  using  water  on  these  woods  as  much  as  possible. 
Oil  and  turpentine  or  alcohol  is  the  best  substance  with  which 
to  treat  them,  as  it  preserves  the  finish  and  the  wood.  When 
any  place  on  the  wood  becomes  very  much  soiled,  it  may  be 
cleaned  by  rubbing  with  a  woolen  cloth  wet  with  turpentine 
or  kerosene.  The  turpentine  removes  the  gloss,  and  should 
be  followed  with  oil.  A  little  tripoli  can  be  moistened  with 
oil  and  the  spot  cleaned  with  this.  Once  a  year  go  over  the 
woodwork  with  a  mixture  of  paraffin-oil  and  tur-  To  restore 
pentine,  using  equal  parts  of  the  oil  and  tur-  dry  or 
pentine,  unless  the  finish  looks  dry  and  cracked,  cracked 
in  which  case  rub  in  the  pure  oil.  On  dark 
wood,  when  the  finish  has  this  dry,  cracked,  or  faded  look, 
the  boiled  linseed-oil  is  better  than  the  paraffin-oil.  The  oil 
should  be  thoroughly  rubbed  in,  and  if  one  application  does 
not  bring  back  the  color  and  finish,  apply  about  once  in  two 
weeks  until  the  surface  is  restored.  It  is  only  when  the 
finished  surface  is  exposed  to  heat,  sun,  or  moisture  that 

these  conditions  are  likely  to  appear,  as,  for  exam- 

,     ,,  j        i  .  •  •  i.  •        Careofout- 

ple,  the  woodwork  near  steam-pipes,  registers,  win-    ^de  doors> 

dows,  sinks,  or  in  bath-rooms,  etc.    The  frequent 

application  of  oil,  well  rubbed  in,  will  keep  such  exposed 

places  in  good  condition.    Outside  doors  should  be  oiled  with 

pure  boiled  linseed-oil  several  times  each  year. 


74  HOME  ECONOMICS 

When  the  regular  yearly  cleaning  is  being  done,  have  the 

woodwork  of  the  room  brushed  and  wiped  free  from  every 

particle  of  dust.     Moisten  a  woolen  cloth  with 

Yearly pol-    ^e  mixture  of  oil  and  turpentine,  and  rub  the 

isnmg  of  -it 

woodwork,  wood  finish.  Follow  this  with  a  dry  woolen  cloth, 
rubbing  hard  to  give  a  polish. 

If  the  odor  of  turpentine  is  objectionable,  and  expense  is 
not  a  serious  question,  wood-alcohol  may  be  substituted  for 
the  turpentine. 

If  there  are  any  bruised  or  scratched  places  on  the  wood- 
work, restore  the  color  and  finish  before  oiling.  (See  "  To 
Restore  Color  and  Finish  to  Woods.") 

CARE   OF   WINDOW-SASHES 

Window-sashes  that  are  finished  in  oil  or  varnish  require 

special  care.    They  are  often  exposed  to  the  heat  of  the  sun 

and  to  moisture  caused  by  steam  condensing  on  the  cold 

glass  or  the  melting  of  frost  in  winter,  etc.     The 

JlindJw?     neat  °f  tne  sun  draws  the  oil  from  the  finish,  and 

sashes       various  other  conditions  combine  to  destroy  the 

Teatand  finisn  0n  tn*S  part  °^  tne  wo°dwork  sooner  than 
moisture,     that  in  any  other  part  of  the  room.     If  the  wood 

is  kept  well  oiled  all  this  damage  can  be  avoided. 

Have  a  little  boiled  linseed-oil  in  a  shallow  cup.     Make  a 

small  soft  pad,  and  dip  it  in  the  oil.     Rub  this  on  the  sash, 

being  careful  not  to  get  any  on  the  glass,  as  it 

of  window-   takes  time  to  remove  **•     Be  generous  to  the  part 
sashes.      where  the  top  and  bottom  sashes  meet,  as  this  is 
the  place  that  receives  the  greatest  proportion  of 
sun  and  moisture.     This  oiling  might  be  done  once  a  month. 
When  the  sashes  have  been  neglected  and  they  have  be- 
come rough  and  dry,  rub  them  smooth  with  sandpaper,  oil 
with  boiled  linseed-oil,  and  then  put  on  a  finish  as  directed 
in  "  To  Restore  Color  and  Finish  to  Woods." 


DAILY   ROUTINE  OF  HOUSEHOLD  WORK  75 


CARE  OF  DINING-ROOM 

The  dining-room  should  be  kept  in  perfect  order,  and  it 
should  be  clean  and  free  from  odors.     There  are  reasons  for 
and  against  a  carpet  in  this  room.     Woolen  car-  01)ectiont 
pets  absorb  odors,  and,  if  anything  happens  to  be     carpet  in 
spilled  on  them,  are  more  difficult  to  clean  than      dining- 
is  the  bare  floor,  or  a  rug  which  may  be  carried  out 
and  aired  with  ease.     On  the  other  hand,  noiseless  service 
is  more  difficult  on  the  polished  floor,  and  there  is  danger  of 
accidents  from  slipping.    Two  or  three  breadths  of  fine  Jap- 
anese matting,  sewed  together  to  make  a  square,  and  the 
ends  bound,  make  a  very  satisfactory  rug  for  the  center  of 
the  dining-room.     Whether  the  floor  is  carpeted 
or  polished,  it  should  be  brushed  each  morning.     ing-Jroom" 
The  room  must  be  thoroughly  aired  and  dusted     should  be 
each  day.     Once  a  week  there  should  be  a  thor-     ^u^ 
ough  cleaning  of  this  room  as  directed  in  "  Gen- 
eral Rule  for  Cleaning  a  Room."     In  this  general  cleaning 
the  closets,  sideboards,  shelves,  etc.,  should  have  special  care. 
The  table  should  be  rubbed  free  from  spots,  and  be  oiled  or 
waxed,  as  the  case  may  be.    All  spots  on  wood  must  be  wiped 
off  and  the  windows  washed. 

In  addition  to  the  thorough  airing  in  the  morning,  the 
dining-room  should  be  aired  for  a  short  time  after  each  meal, 
even  in  the  coldest  weather. 


CARE   OF   TABLEWARE 

Silver.— If  washed  in  plenty  of  soap  and  hot  water  and 
rubbed  dry  with  clean,  soft  towels  each  time  it  is  used,  the 
silver  will  not  often  require  cleaning. 

To  clean  the  silver,  first  wash  it  in  hot  suds,  and  wipe  it. 
Cover  a  table  or  a  large  tray  with  thick  paper.     Have  fine 


76  HOME  ECONOMICS 

French  whiting  which  has  been  sifted.    Put  a  portion  of  this 
whiting  in  a  saucer,  and  wet  it  with  diluted  alcohol  or  am- 
monia.   With  a  soft  cloth  apply  this  mixture  and 
d^aiSngf    rub  on  the  silver-     Spread  on  the  paper  to  dry. 
When  all  is  finished  rub  the  whiting  off  the  sil- 
ver with  a  soft,  clean  cloth;  then  polish  with  chamois.     A 
soft  brush  will  be  required,  for  grooves  and  chased  work. 

This  cleaning  with  whiting  should  not  be  necessary  of  tener 
than  once  a  month,  except  where  an  article  is  tarnished  by 
eggs  or  some  such  substance,  in  which  case  clean 
toXing.    with  whiting.    If  the  silver  tarnishes  quickly  there 
must  be  some  gases  in  the  house;  therefore  gas- 
pipes  and  drain-pipes  should  be  inspected. 

It  must  be  remembered  that  constant  rubbing  wears  away 
the  silver,  and  that  any  substance  that  will  clean  a  tarnished 
metal  without  much  friction  will  probably  attack 
treatment    the  metal  also. 

of  silver.         Silver  should  be  kept  by  itself;  hard  substances, 
like  steel  knives,  scratch  it. 
The  handles  of  the  knives  should  not  be  allowed  to  go  into 
the  dish-pan;  they  should  be  held  in  the  dry  left  hand  while 
the  blades  are  washed  with  a  cloth  in  the  right  hand. 

Car  of  Spots  may  be  removed  and  the  polished  surface 

ivory-han-    restored  to  ivory  handles  by  rubbing  with  powdered 

died        pumice-stone  and  water.    This  means  a  good  deal 

of  hard  rubbing,  if  done  by  hand. 
Glass.— There  is  a  great  diversity  of  opinion  as  to  the  best 
methods  of  washing  glass.  Cold  water  answers  very  well  for 
articles  that  are  not  much  soiled  and  have  had  no  oily  sub- 
stance near  them.  Ammonia  or  soda  in  the  water  cleanses 
the  glass  readily  and  gives  a  luster.  Soapy  water  also  cleans 
the  glass  easily.  When  glass  is  washed  in  cold  water  it 
should  drain  until  nearly  dry.  It  must  then  be  polished  with 
a  clean,  soft  towel.  It  is  more  difficult  to  wash  in  cold 
water,  and  it  takes  longer  to  polish  the  glass. 


DAILY   ROUTINE  OF  HOUSEHOLD  WORK  77 

Glass  that  has  been  washed  in  warm  water  with  either 
soda,  ammonia,  or  soap  should  be  wiped  at  once. 

A  soft  brush  is  required  for  cleaning  cut  glass.     A  clean 
towel  should  be  spread  on  a  tray,  and  each  piece,      Care  of 
as  it  is  wiped,  should  be  placed  on  this.  cut  slas8. 

This  precaution  is  particularly  necessary  with  dishes  that 
are  deeply  cut  at  the  bottom.     When  placed  on  polished 
wood  the  moisture  produces  a  white  mark.     Fine 
sawdust  is  very  good  for  cut  glass;  it  absorbs  the      u*e  j£ 
moisture  from  those  parts  that  cannot  be  reached     cut  glass, 
with  the  cloth.     After  wiping  the  glass,  bury  it 
in  a  bed  of  sawdust,  and  let  it  remain  half  an  hour  or  more. 
When  the  glass  is  removed  from  the  sawdust,  brush  it  with 
a  soft  brush,  and  polish  with  a  soft  cloth. 

A  word  of  caution  must  be  said  here.  The  sawdust  should 
come  from  a  non-resinous  wood,  such  as  box  or  basswood;  it 
must  be  fine,  and  free  from  any  hard  substance.  If  saw- 
dust from  pine  or  any  resinous  wood  is  used,  the  resin  will 
stick  to  the  glass,  and  it  will  be  found  most  difficult  to 
remove.  The  sawdust  should  be  spread  out  to  dry  after 
having  been  used;  in  this  way  it  may  be  employed  a  number 
of  times. 

One  thing  must  always  be  remembered :  to  scratch  glass  is 
to  weaken  that  part,  so  that  a  little  extra  heat  or  cold,  or  a 
slight  jar,  will  cause  a  break  at  that  point.    A 
grain  of  sand  at  the  bottom  of  the  dish-pan,  or  on    ^a^°8f 
the  dish-cloth,  may  make  this  little  scratch  which     on  glass, 
will  split  your  beautiful  dish  in  twain. 

China.— The  dishes  should  be  scraped  clean,  and  then 
rinsed  off  with  clear  water.  Wash  them  in  soapy  water, 
rinse  in  clear  hot  water,  and  drain  and  wipe  dry. 

Do  not  place  one  dish  upon  another  as  they    Mustnotbe 
are  wiped.     Spread  them  out  to  cool  off,  then    Placfd  on.e 
put  them  together.     Piling  them  together  while     another. 
warm  is  apt  to  crack  the  glaze. 


78  HOME  ECONOMICS 

Put  only  a  few  dishes  in  the  pan  at  a  time.  Do  not  use 
much  soap  on  gilt  china. 

n  Before  beginning  to  wash  dishes,  have  them  all 

little  soap    sorted  and  put  in  groups,  keeping  those  of  the 

°hi?lt      same  kmc*  together. 

Wash,  rinse,  and  wipe  one  group  before  be- 
ginning another. 

In  wiping  dishes  the  hands  should  not  come  in  contact  with 
the  dish.  Hold  the  dish  in  the  left  hand,  having  the  towel 
How  di  h  between  hand  and  dish.  Never  wipe  with  a  towel 
and  towel    that  has  become  wet. 

^JjH*8         Glass,  silver,  and  china  should  present  a  bril- 
liant surface  when  the  wiping  is  finished.     This 
can  only  be  done  by  washing  them  very  clean,  and  wiping 
thoroughly  with  a  soft,  clean  towel. 

The  towels  should  be  washed,  rinsed,  and  hung  out  to  dry 
after  the  dishes  are  finished. 

Pewter,  Britannia,  and  block-tinware  are  often  used  on  the 

table  in  the  form  of  tea-  and  coffee-pots,  dish-covers,  and 

chafing-dishes.     These  can  be  polished  with  pow- 

pewter,      dered  rottenstone  and  oil,  or  oil  and  whiting,  or 

Britannia,    in  the  same  way  that  silver  is  polished. 

a£nware.~        Wash  the  article  first  in  hot  soap  and  water, 

and  wipe  dry.     Dampen  a  cloth  with  sweet-oil, 

and  rub  it  over  the  article  to  be  polished.     Put  rottenstone 

or  whiting  on  a  piece  of  soft,  dry  flannel,  and  rub  over  the 

oiled  surface.     Then  polish  with  dry  whiting  and  chamois. 

Steel  knives  are  polished  with  soft  soap,  Bristol  brick,  and 

a  large  cork. 

Wash  the  knives  in  soap  and  water,  and  wipe  dry.     Have 

a  smooth  board  on  which  rests  the  blade  of  the  knife  per- 

Method  of    ^ec^y  A3-*-     Dip  the  cork  in  the  soap,  then  in  the 

ofpolishing    powdered  brick,  and  rub  the  steel  until  all  stains 

J*eel        are  removed.     Then  polish  off  with  dry  powdered 

brick,  and  wipe  with  a  soft  cloth. 


DAILY  ROUTINE  OF  HOUSEHOLD  WORK  79 

To  keep  steel  from  rusting,  cover  with  sweet-oil  or  mutton 
tallow,  and  wrap  in  soft  paper. 

To  remove  rust,  put  oil  and  quicklime  on  the    To  remove 
rusted  article.    After  several  days  rub  with  oil        TUKtt 
and  rottenstone  or  Bristol  brick. 

CARE   OF   KITCHEN   AND   PANTRIES 

The  kitchen  and  pantries  should   be  well  lighted  and 
aired.     Nothing  that  will  hold  odors,  such  as  woolen  car- 
pets or  draperies,  should  form  a  part  of  the  fur- 
nishing of  any  of  these  rooms.     The  woodwork      ventiia- 
should  be  of  natural  wood,  varnished  or  oiled,  and    tion>  ^H 
the  walls  should  be  painted  or  covered  with  a 
paper  that  may  be  washed. 

The  floors  in  this  part  of  the  house  are  something  of  a 
problem.     White  boards  are  exceedingly  attractive  when  in 
good  condition,  but  they  require  infinite  care.     A     Floors  of 
hard-wood  floor,  properly  oiled,  is  quite  satisfac-      kitchen 
tory;  so  is  a  well-painted  and  -varnished  floor,     andpan- 
Oil-cloth  makes  a  clean  and  pleasing  covering, 
and  one  that  is  easily  kept  clean.     I  should  never  advise  its 
use,  however,  as  it  is  cold  for  the  feet.     Linoleum  is  a  most 
satisfactory  floor-covering.     It  may  be  cleaned  with  ease,  it 
is  soft,  warm,  and  elastic,  and  wears  well. 

Tables  and  shelves,  like  the  floors,  when  in  white  wood  and 
kept  in  good  condition  are  a  delight  to  the  eye ;  but  to  main- 
tain them  in  this  state  means  much  work.    Painted 
or  varnished  shelves  are  clean,  and  may  be  kept  so      nc^h.e 
with  little  trouble.    A  covering  of  white  enameled 
cloth  on  the  shelves  and  kitchen  tables  looks  particularly 
well,  and  the  work  of  taking  care  of  it  is  very  light.     These 
coverings  should  be  laid  on  smoothly  and  held  in  place  with 
small  tacks.     Heat  destroys  the  enamel,  therefore  hot  dishes 
must  not  be  placed  directly  on  these  covers. 


80  HOME  ECONOMICS 

The  daily  care  of  kitchen  and  pantries  consists  of  sweep- 
ing and  dusting,  wiping  or  washing  of  shelves,  tables,  and 
n-,-i    «  «   floors,  and  the  cleaning  of  the  sink  and  range, 

Jjftiiy  care 
of  kitchen     etc. 

and  pan-         Strong  soaps  and  alkalis  should  not  be  used 
on  paint  or  varnishes.     They  soften  and  remove 
the  dirt  quickly,  but  they  also  soften  and  remove  the  paint 
and  varnish. 

The  varnished  or  oiled  woodwork  in  the  kitchen,  pantries, 

back  halls,  etc.,  may  be  kept  clean  by  wiping  it  with  a 

Care  of      Aannel  doth  wrung  out  of  hot  water,  and  then 

varnished     rubbing  smooth  and  dry  with  a  dry  cloth.    Finger- 

01  dll6dfc    mar^s  may  De  removed  by  rubbing  them  with  wet 

whiting;  the  whiting  should  then  be  wiped  off  and 

the  surface  wiped  dry.     Painted  walls  may  be  kept  clean  in 

the  same  way. 

CARE   OF   THE   FLOORS 

A  hard-wood  floor,  if  properly  oiled,  is  quite  satisfactory; 
but  if  it  is  badly  done  it  is  a  constant  source  of  annoyance. 

Oiledfloors  ^ne  °^n&  °^  ^ne  fl°ors  m  the  Dack  part  of  the 
house,  as  a  general  rule,  must  be  done  in  the  even- 
ing, after  the  work  of  the  day  is  finished.  This  oiling  is 
sometimes  done  by  a  member  of  the  family,  but  quite  as  often 
a  painter  is  employed  who  is  accustomed  to  that  kind  of  work. 
Whoever  does  the  oiling,  there  are  three  things  upon  which 
success  largely  depends:  First,  there  should  be  no  floating 
dust  in  the  room,  and  the  floor  must  be  absolutely  clean.  Sec- 
ond, the  oil  must  be  of  the  right  kind  and  in  the  proper  con- 
dition. Third,  the  oil  must  be  rubbed  into  the  boards  thor- 
oughly, so  as  to  leave  a  perfectly  smooth  surface. 

Boiled  linseed-oil  dries  more  quickly  than  the 
linseed-oil.    raw  °^-     ^  *s  we^  to  add  a  little  turpentine,  as  it 
will  make  the  oil  less  sticky.     It  must  be  remem- 
bered that  with  the  oiled  floor,  as  with  all  surfaces,  the  more 


DAILY  ROUTINE  OF  HOUSEHOLD  WORK  81 

highly  polished  it  is,  the  longer  it  will  keep  clean.  There- 
fore it  should  be  rubbed  with  a  dry  flannel  once  or  twice  a 
week. 

The  daily  care  of  the  oiled  floor  consists  of    Daycare 
sweeping  it  with  a  hair  brush,  and,  if  there  are       floors> 
any  soiled  spots,  of  wiping  them  off  with  a  flannel 
cloth  wrung  out  of  hot  water.     If  this  does  not  remove  all 
the  dirt,  a  little  soap  may  be  rubbed  on  the  cloth. 

Once  a  week  wipe  the  floor  with  a  damp  cloth,  using  soap 
when  it  is  necessary;  wipe  very  dry,  and  then  go  all  over  the 
floor  with  a  cloth  made  damp  with  kerosene  or 
boiled  oil  and  turpentine.    This  should  be  rubbed    JStowSt 
in  thoroughly,  and  the  floor  should  not  be  walked      a  week, 
on,  if  it  is  possible  to  avoid  it,  for  an  hour  or  more. 
The  windows  should  be  left  open,  that  the  odor  of  the  oil  may 
pass  off.     Cover  an  old  brush  with  a  woolen  cloth,  and  rub 
the  floor;  it  will  take  a  fine  polish. 

See  "  Care  of  Polished  Floors,"  for  method  of  oiling  floors. 

The  painted  or  varnished  floors  in  the  back  part  of  the 
house  are  usually  ruined  with  soap  and  water  and  scrubbing- 
brushes.     Strong  soaps,  soda  or  ammonia,  and  a 
scrubbing-brush,  in  the  hands  of  a  vigorous  woman,    ^Jj-jj^ 
will  remove  the  greater  part  of  the  paint  or  var-       floors, 
nish  from  a  floor  in  a  short  time.     As  little  water, 
soap,  or  alkalis  as  possible  should  be  used  on  these  surfaces. 

Sweep  the  floor,  and  wipe  off  the  dust  with  a  damp  cloth. 
If  this  will  not  remove  all  the  dirt,  use  a  woolen  cloth  wrung 
out  of  hot  water.     If  the  spot  is  very  dirty  it  may 
be  necessary  to  put  a  little  soap  on  the  cloth.  Rub    JJJJJJJrt 
hard  with  the  woolen  cloth,  but  never  use  a  scrub-    of  painted 
bing-brush.    Once  a  week,  after  having  swept  and      5Jwd 
wiped  the  floor  clean,  go  over  it  with  a  cloth  damp-       floors, 
ened  with  one  part  boiled  oil  and  one  part  tur- 
pentine, or  kerosene  may  be  used  instead.    The  work  of 
caring  for  a  floor  in  this  manner  is  much  less  than  when  a 


82  HOME  ECONOMICS 

great  deal  of  water  and  soap  is  used;  and,  moreover,  the 
floor  is  in  a  sanitary  condition,  because  the  boards  are  dry 
and  clean. 

On  a  farm  where  milk  is  abundant  the  floor  may  be  washed 
with  hot  milk  and  water;  it  must  be  wiped  perfectly  dry  after 
this  treatment. 

j.    j  Oil-cloth  and  linoleum  may  be  treated  in  the 

same  manner  as  a  painted  or  varnished  floor. 

For  cleaning  white  boards,  whether  they  are  in  floors  or 

tables,  there  is  nothing  better  than  fine  sand  and  water  that 

is  warm  but  not  hot.   The  boards  should  be  scoured 

White       ^h  san(j  an(j  water,  then  washed  with  clear  warm 

and  tables,    water,  and  thoroughly  dried.     The  rubbing  should 

always  be  in  the  direction  of  the  grain  of  the  wood. 

This  treatment  will  keep  boards  beautifully  white.  Great 
care  must  be  taken  to  wash  every  particle  of  sand  from  the 
tables,  and  to  see  that  none  gets  into  the  sink  or  dish-pan. 
A  scratch  from  a  grain  of  sand  might  be  the  trifle  that  would 

cause  the  breakage  of  a  piece  of  fine  glass. 
of  grease-        Grease-spots  on  tables  and  floors  may  be  treated 

spots.       in  several  ways.     (See  "  Stains  on  Wood.") 

CARE  OF  KITCHEN   UTENSILS 

On  the  proper  care  of  the  kitchen  utensils  depends  to  a 
great  degree  the  healthfulness  and  success  of  the  cooked 
food.     No  matter  how  many  utensils  there  are, 
tancoo'f     or  k°w  perfect  they  may  be,  unless  they  are  kept 
thorough-    in  good  condition  they  will  not  do  satisfactory  work. 
n?Skitlhare    ^saucepan  from  which  the  enamel  has  been  chipped, 
utensils,     or  which  has  been  burned  black  and  rough,  will 
spoil  the  flavor  and  appearance  of  any  preparation 
cooked  in  it;  a  tin  dish  which  has  rusted,  or  from  which  the 
tin  has  been  scratched,  will  also  ruin  the  flavor  and  appear- 
ance of  food,  and  so  it  is  through  the  whole  category. 


DAILY  ROUTINE  OF  HOUSEHOLD  WORK  83 

Systematic  thoroughness,  then,  in  the  care  of  the  kitchen 
utensils  is  absolutely  necessary  for  their  preservation  and  for 
perfection  in  cooking.  With  the  proper  appliances  this  is 
not  a  difficult  task. 

y^Plenty  of  hot  water,  soap,  and  towels,  and  willing  hands 
are  all  that  are  needed  to  keep  these  articles  in  good  order. 
Soiled  utensils  should  not  be  left  standing  for  the 
particles  of  food  to  harden  on  them;  nor  should  a    M«tl10?  of 
knife  or  spoon  be  used  to  scrape  off  these  adher-     utensils, 
ing  particles;  such  treatment  soon  destroys  the 
enamel  or  plate.     If  a  substance  clings  stubbornly  to  a  dish 
or  stew-pan,  use  the  dish-cloth  of  wire  rings.    This  cleans 
quickly,  without  scratching  or  otherwise  injuring  the  surface. 

As  soon  as  each  dish  or  stew-pan  is  emptied  of  its  contents 
it  should  be  filled  with  water;  when  dish-washing  time  comes, 
it  will  be  found  that  all  clinging  particles  are  thoroughly 
soaked  and  may  be  rinsed  off  before  the  dishes  are  put  into 
the  pan  of  hot,  soapy  water. 

There  should  be  no  stint  in  towels,  soap,  and  hot  water. 
Towels  for  silver,  glass,  and  china  should  be  of  linen.     A 
loosely  woven  cheap  linen  crash  makes  the  best 
toweling  for  the   cooking  utensils.     A  closely    To^£_and 
woven,  stiff  towel  is  most  difficult  to  wash,  and       cloths, 
it  must  be  half  worn  before  it  will  wipe  articles 
dry.     There  should  be  long  cotton  and  linen  towels  in 
reach  for  handling  hot  pots  and  pans.     A  good  length  for 
these  towels  is  forty-two  inches.     Then,  there  should  be  soft 
towels  for  the  hands,  a  mixture  of  cotton  and  linen  being 
better  than  all  linen  for  this  purpose.     Two  linen  dish- 
cloths,—which,  by  the  way,  should  not  be  used  after  they 
have  become  so  worn  that  they  will  leave  lint  on  the  dishes, 
—a  wire  dish-cloth,  and  a  bunch  of  wooden  skewers  are  in- 
dispensable. 

All  kitchen  utensils  should  be  washed  and  wiped  as  care- 
fully as  the  dining-room  china. 


84  HOME  ECONOMICS 

Here  is  a  good  rule  for  the  daily  care  of  utensils.    We 

will  take  it  for  granted  that  pots,  pans,  bowls,  etc.,  were  put 

to  soak  as  soon  as  they  were  emptied  of  their 

ruieTforthe    contents.     Rinse  off  all  particles  of  food  that 

care  of  cling  to  the  utensils.  If  there  are  spots  where 
SensS.  ^ne  SUDS^ance  has  stuck  or  burned  on,  rub  with 
the  wire  dish-cloth  until  all  traces  are  removed; 
never  scrape  with  a  knife  or  spoon.  When  all  the  dishes  are 
cleaned  in  this  way,  fill  a  dish-pan  half  full  of  hot  water,  well 
soaped;  nearly  fill  a  second  pan  with  clear  hot  water.  Begin 
by  washing  the  earthenware  in  the  hot  suds,  rinse  in  the  hot 
water,  drain,  and  then  wipe  with  clean,  dry  towels.  Follow 
this  method  with  the  tins  and  granite-ware,  then  with  the 
ironware,  changing  the  waters,  of  course,  as  they  become 
soiled  or  cool.  Wash  the  outside  and  bottom  of  the  utensils 
as  carefully  as  the  inside. 

Any  utensil  in  which  frying  has  been  done  must  be  wiped 
with  soft  newspaper  to  remove  all  the  grease  before  it  is  put 
in  the  water  for  washing.  Use  plenty  of  soap  and  very  hot 
water  when  washing  greasy  cooking  utensils.  If  frying-pans 
or  kettles  become  rough  and  dark  they  can  be  made  smooth 
and  bright  by  scouring  with  soap  and  wood-ashes. 

Tin  and  iron  should  be  wiped  while  still  hot.  ^ 

All  grooves  in  cooking  utensils  may  be  cleaned  with  a 
wooden  skewer. 

In  thinking  over  the  care  of  the  kitchen,  pantries,  utensils, 

etc.,  it  seems  almost  more  important  to  speak  of  the  things 

one  should  not  do,  rather  than  the  things  one  should  do;  for  a 

great  deal  of  damage  can  be  done  in  a  short  time,  and  the  task 

of  repairing  it  is  discouraging  and  sometimes  almost  hopeless. 

ironware        New  iron  is  one  of  the  most  difficult  materials 

improves     0ne  has  to  deal  with  in  kitchen  utensils;  as  it 

grows  older,  and  the  surface  becomes  more  smooth 

with  use  and  proper  treatment,  it  is  comparatively  easy  to 

keep  it  in  good  condition. 


.DAILY  ROUTINE  OF  HOUSEHOLD  WORK  85 

It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  acids  tend  to  cause  rust 

on  iron,  while  soda  and  fats  make  the  surface      Effect  of 

smooth  and  prevent  rust.     Moisture  also  causes    acids,  soda, 

and  fats, 
rust. 

The  inside  of  new  iron  utensils  should  be  coated  with  fresh 
mutton  tallow  and  allowed  to  stand  a  few  days.     At  the  end 
of  that  time  they  should  be  heated  gradually  until 
the  fat  melts,  and  then  washed  in  hot  water  in     Treatment 
which   washing-soda  has  been   dissolved.     One      utensils, 
tablespoonful  of  the  soda  should  be  used  with 
every  two  quarts  of  water.     A  mop  should  be  used  for 
this  washing,  as  the  strong  solution  of  soda  would  injure 
the  hands.     Rinse  the  utensils  in  hot  water,  and  wipe  them 
dry  with  a  clean,  dry,  coarse  towel,  rubbing  very  hard.     If 
food  or  cloths  are  darkened  by  the  utensil  after  this  treat- 
ment, it  should  be  scoured  with  soap  and  sand,  after  which 
it  will  give  very  little,  if  any,  trouble. 

The  treatment  of  ironware,  after  this,  is  very  simple.  As 
soon  as  the  utensil  has  been  emptied,  when  food  has  been 
cooked  in  it,  fill  it  with  water,  and  let  it  rest  on  the  back  of 
the  range  until  you  are  ready  to  wash  it.  All  particles  of 
food  adhering  to  it  will  be  softened  by  this  means,  and  may 
be  washed  off  before  the  utensil  is  put  in  the  dish-pan. 
Have  hot  soapy  water  in  readiness;  put  one  utensil  at  a  time 
into  the  pan,  and  wash  the  inside  and  outside  with  equal  care. 
When  all  the  saucepans,  kettles,  etc.,  have  been  washed  in 
this  manner,  rinse  them  in  hot  water,  drain  them,  and  wipe 
first  with  the  dish-cloth,  and  then  with  a  dry  crash  towel,  rub- 
bing hard. 

This  is  the  only  treatment  that  will  insure  a  perfect  con- 
dition of  iron-  or  steelware.  Scouring  the  inside  of  iron  or 
steel  articles  with  any  kind  of  sand  soap  or  mineral  soap 
makes  the  surface  smooth  and  bright.  Frying-pans,  griddles, 
omelet-pans,  etc.,  may  be  kept  in  perfect  condition  by  this 
means. 


86  HOME  ECONOMICS 


TINWARE 

r 

Wash  tinware  in  hot  soapy  water,  rinse  it  in  clear  hot 
water,  and  wipe  dry  with  a  dry  dish-towel.  Articles  made 
of  tin  should  not  be  put  on  the  range  to  dry,  as 
Sc°tmsf  °  they  are  apt  to  be  darkened  or  melted  by  this 
treatment.  When  they  need  cleaning,  wash  them 
thoroughly  in  strong  soap-suds,  and  clean  them  with  whiting 
or  sand  soap;  then  wash,  rinse,  and  wipe  dry.  Sand  should 
never  be  used  for  scouring  tins,  as  it  cuts  through  the  soft 
metal,  leaving  bare  tiny  lines  of  iron  that  soon  make  then 
presence  known  by  fine  streaks  of  rust. 

There  are  several  cleaning-materials  that  are  free  from 
hard,  cutting  particles  which  may  be  safely  used  on  tins& 
enamels,  etc.,  among  others  being  sifted  whiting,  kaolin, 
sifted  wood-ashes,  that  may  be  taken  from  the  fluea  under 
the  oven  or  from  the  dust-flue  in  the  furnace.  There  is  a 
soap  on  the  market,  which  is  largely  composed  of  kaolin,  that 
is  excellent  for  cleaning  paint,  tins,  windows,  eto.,  since  it 
removes  all  dirt  without  scratching  the  surface. 


WOODENWARE 

Wash  all  woodenware  in  hot  soapy  water,  rinse  in  clear 
hot  water,  and  wipe  with  a  dry  towel.  Woodenware  may  be 
put  in  the  sun  to  dry,  but  never  near  the  fire,  as  great  dry 
heat  cracks  the  wood.  Pastry-boards,  meat-bowls,  and  other 
bowls  may  be  scoured  as  directed  for  white  tables. 

Wash  Wooden  bowls  in  which  fat  meats  and  vegeta- 

warewitk  *^es  have  been  chopped  sometimes  retain  the  flavor 
soda  to  re-  and  odor  of  the  substance  that  has  been  in  them. 
move  odor.  These  may  be  removed  by  soaking  the  bowl  in  hot 
soda-water,  using  one  teaspoonful  of  soda  to  one  quart  of 
water. 


DAILY   ROUTINE   OF   HOUSEHOLD   WORK  87 

Utensils  in  which  fish  or  other  food  that  imparts  an  odor 
or  flavor  has  been  cooked  should  be  boiled  for  a  short  time 
in  soda-water.  This  can  be  done  by  putting  a  quart  To  deodor- 
of  water  and  a  small  piece  of  washing-soda,  or  a  iz©  cooking 
teaspoonful  of  baking-soda,  into  the  saucepan  or  utensils- 
kettle,  and  placing  it  on  the  range  where  the  water  will  boil. 

Wood-ashes  are  excellent  for  cleaning  and  deodorizing  iron 
and  tin  utensils.  Put  a  gill  of  wood-ashes  and  a  pint  of  water 
in  the  stew-pan  or  kettle,  and  place  it  on  the  fire  where  it 
will  simmer  for  half  an  hour.  Let  the  mixture  cool  partly, 
then  scour  the  utensil  with  it,  using  a  coarse  cloth,  or  a  coil 
of  grass  or  hay  if  one  lives  in  the  country  and  has  it  at  hand. 

THE   TEA-KETTLE 

The  tea-kettle  is  one  of  the  problems  of  the  kitchen.  It 
is  difficult  to  keep  it  free  from  rust.  If  it  could  always  be 
emptied  and  wiped  dry  when  not  needed,  this  might  be  pre- 
vented; but  hot  water  is  constantly  in  demand,  and  the  tea- 
kettle seems  to  be  the  place  where  it  should  be  found. 

When  water  cools  slowly  in  a  covered  vessel,  globules  of 
steam  gather  on  the  cover,  sides,  and  bottom.     Tiny  spots 
of  rust  will  soon  appear,  which  grow  as  time  goes 
on,  until  finally  the  whole  interior  surface  is  cov-       a^gt° 
ered.   This  is  what  happens  in  the  tea-kettle  from 
day  to  day.     The  remedy  is  to  empty  the  kettle  while  it  is 
hot,  rinse  it  out,  and  wipe  it  dry. 

In  any  case,  the  tea-kettle  should  be  washed  out  every  day; 
for  even  clean  water  will  be  found  to  leave  a  deposit.  This 
washing  out  had  better  be  done  in  the  evening, 
when  the  work  for  the  day  is  over;  it  will  insure  tea-kettle, 
thorough  drying,  and  will  do  a  great  deal  toward 
preserving  the  tea-kettle  in  good  condition.  There  are  tea- 
kettles that  are  lined  with  white  enamel,  which  can  easily 
be  kept  in  good  condition. 


88  HOME  ECONOMICS 


TEA-POTS    AND   COFFEE-POTS 

Tea-pots  and  coffee-pots  require  the  most  thorough  clean- 
ing daily.  They  should  be  freed  from  grounds  or  leaves, 
rinsed  in  cold  water,  and  washed  with  clear  hot  water.  They 
should  then  be  scalded  with  boiling  water,  wiped  dry,  and 
placed  where  they  may  be  thoroughly  aired. 

CARE   OF    THE   REFRIGERATOR 

The  refrigerator  is  nearly  always  on  the  same  floor  with 
the  kitchen.    It  should  be  placed  where  it  may  be  well  lighted 

and  aired,  and  on  no  consideration  should  the 
Situation,     waste-pipe  of  the  refrigerator  be  connected  with 

the  drain-pipe  of  the  house.  A  pan  under  the  re- 
frigerator is  a  care,  and  it  is  often  most  annoying'.if  forgotten, 
but  with  all  this  it  is  not  a  menace  to  the  health  of  the  fam- 
ily, as  might  be  the  risk  of  sewer-gas  coming  through  the 
pipe  into  the  refrigerator. 

Once  a  week  the  refrigerator  should  have  a  thorough 
cleaning  and  airing.     Everything  should  be  taken  from 

the  interior.  The  shelves  and  racks  should  be 
deaSngf    wasned  in  hot  suds,  rinsed  in  hot  soda-water,  and 

finally  in  clean  hot  water.  They  should  then 
be  wiped  dry,  and,  if  possible,  placed  in  the  open  air 
to  become  perfectly  dry;  should  the  weather  be  stormy, 
place  them  near  the  fire  to  dry.  See  that  there  is  not 
a  particle  of  anything  left  in  a  groove  or  mesh.  Next 
wash  the  interior  of  the  refrigerator,  first  with  soap  and 
water,  then  with  mild  soda-water,  and  finally  with  clean  hot 
water,  using  a  wooden  skewer  to  clean  all  the  grooves  and 
ledges. 

The  ice-chamber  needs  special  attention.  See  that  the 
waste-pipe  is  clean  by  running  a  flexible  wire  through  it.    If 


DAILY  ROUTINE  OF   HOUSEHOLD  WORK  89 

a  cloth  is  put  on  the  flexible  wire  the  pipe  may  be  more  thor- 
oughly cleaned.    Pour  hot  soda-water  and  then  boiling  water 
through  this  pipe.     Then  wipe  every  part  of  the 
refrigerator  perfectly  dry,  and  let  it  remain  open    C1fe^st^ 
for  an  hour  or  more.  pipe. 

Caution:  It  must  be  remembered  that  water- 
soaked  wood,  when  kept  from  light  and  air,  will  scent  and 
flavor  any  food  that  is  placed  in  a  closed  chamber  with  it. 
The  refrigerator  should  be  so  lined  that  not  a  particle  of 
moisture  can  reach  the  wood  used  in  its  construction. 
Should  the  lining  be  cracked  or  broken,  it  must  be  repaired 
at  once.  It  will  be  infinitely  better  to  live  without  a  refrig- 
erator than  to  use  one  that  is  not  in  perfect  condition. 

THE  SINK  — 

The  kitchen  sink  should  be  absolutely  sweet  at  all  times. 
To  keep  it  in  this  condition  requires  systematic  watchfulness. 

When  the  dish-washing  is  finished,  and  the  dish-towels  and 
dish-cloths  have  been  washed,  half  fill  the  dish-pan  with  hot 
soapy  water.  Wash  every  part  of  the  sink  with  this,  not 
missing  a  ledge  or  a  groove.  Wipe  all  the  tiling  or  wood- 
work above  and  around  the  sink.  Pour  this  water  into  the 
sink,  and  fill  the  pan  with  clear  hot  water.  Rinse  the  sink, 
dish-pan,  and  cloth  in  this,  wipe  the  pan,  and  hang  the  cloth 
out  to  dry.  Let  several  gallons  of  clear  cold  water  run  through 
the  pipes.  If  the  sink  is  iron,  and  will  not  be  used  for  several 
hours,  wipe  it  dry  after  the  cold  water  has  been  poured  in. 

TO    CLEAN    AN   IRON   SINK 

Sometimes  an  iron  sink  gets  into  a  rough,  rusty  condi- 
tion which  no  ordinary  treatment  can  remedy.    To  remove 
Quicklime,  combined  with  some  fatty  substance,     rust  from 
such  as  oil,  lard,  mutton  or  beef  fat,  will  remove        8illk, 
rust  and   give  a  smooth,  clean  surface  to  the  iron. 


90  HOME  ECONOMICS 

Rub  soft  mutton  fat  on  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  sink, 
then  cover  with  powdered  quicklime,  and  let  the  application 
stand  overnight.  In  the  morning  wash  off  the  lime  with 
plenty  of  water  and  an  old  sink-broom;  then  wash  the  sink 
with  a  hot  solution  of  sal-soda,  using  a  cloth  attached  to  the 
sink-broom  for  this  purpose.  Unless  the  rust  is 
Danger  of  very  deep,  the  sink  will  be  perfectly  free  from  it, 
^  UmeT*  and  smooth  and  clean.  If,  however,  any  rust  re- 
mains, apply  the  fat  and  lime  a  second  time.  Use 
great  care  not  to  spatter  the  lime  on  surrounding  objects,  as 
it  will  take  the  color  out  of  fabrics  and  mar  painted  or  var- 
nished surfaces. 

Rusted  iron  or  steel  of  any  kind  may  be  cleaned  in  the 
same  manner. 

The  iron  sink  should  be  greased  once  in  a  while  overnight 
with  mutton  fat,  and  have  a  thorough  washing  the  next  morn- 
ing with  the  hot  solution  of  soda. 
caw^iron       Sal-soda  is  also  very  good  for  cleaning  iron  and 

sink.       steel  utensils. 

CARE   OF   CELLAR 

In  no  part  of  the  house  is  there  greater  necessity  for  con- 
stant watchfulness  than  in  the  cellar.  It  should  be  thor- 
oughly cleaned  twice  a  year.  In  these  two  yearly  cleanings 
the  method  of  proceeding  is  this: 

1.  Open  the  windows.   Sweep  walls,  ceiling,  and 

Method  of     flQor  jn  one  par^  Qf  ^he  room, 
cleaning 

cellar.  2.  Brush  all  light,  movable  articles,  and  place 

in  the  cleaned  part  of  cellar. 

3.  Sweep  walls,  ceiling,  and  floor  of  remainder  of  tho 
room,  and  brush  thoroughly  all  stationary  articles. 

4.  Let  dust  settle,  and  sweep  and  dust  a  second  time. 

5.  Wash  windows,  tables,  closets,  etc.  If  whitewashing 
is  to  be  done,  this  is  the  time  to  do  it. 


DAILY  ROUTINE  OF  HOUSEHOLD  WORK  91 

6.  Return  articles  to  their  proper  places,  and  put  screens 
I  in  windows. 

If  there  are  coal-  and  wood-bins  in  the  cellar,  this  is  the 
1  time  to  clean  them,  and  also  the  furnace,  if  there  is  one. 
I  The  cellar  should  be  inspected  once  a  week. 

In  summer  the  windows  should  be  opened  every  night  and 
I  kept  closed  during  the  daytime.     The  reason  for  opening  the 
|  windows  at  night  and  closing  them  in  the  daytime    ,_ 
is  this:  The  outdoor  air  in  the  daytime  is  much        dows 
warmer  than  in  the  cellar.     This  warm,  moist-     8n°uld  to 
I  laden  air  enters  the  cooler  atmosphere  of  the 
j  cellar,  and  the  moisture  condenses  and  rests  on  all  surfaces, 
j  rusting  metallic  ones,  and  making  the  cellar  damp  and  warm. 
|j  By  opening  the  windows  at  night  and  closing  them  in  the 
I  daytime  the  cellar  is  kept  dry,  cool,  and  pure. 

In  winter,  mild  days  should  be  selected  for  airing  this  part 
1  of  the  house. 

If  the  house  is  closed  for  the  summer,  it  is  best,  when  it 
can  be  done  with  safety,  to  leave  two  windows  open  on  oppo- 
j  site  sides  of  the  cellar,  that  there  may  be  a  strong  current 
|  of  air  blowing  through  all  the  time. 

Two  sets  of  screens  are  necessary  for  the  cellar    The  screens 
windows:  strong  gratings,  as  a  protection  against       cellar? 
I  thieves,  and  fine  wire  netting,  as  a  protection 
!  against  flies  and  small  animals.     If  all  this  is  done,  and  no 
|  animal  or  vegetable  substance  allowed  to  decay  here,  one  may 
feel  that  the  house  is  on  a  healthy  foundation. 

HOUSEHOLD   REFUSE 

What  to  do  with  the  household  refuse  is  often  a  most  per- 
plexing question,  particularly  when  one  lives  in  a 
small  town  or  country  place.     In  large  cities  the     Refuse.0 
government  disposes  of  the  refuse.     But  even 
when  the  city  makes  a  final  disposition  of  the  garbage,  it 


92  HOME  ECONOMICS 

does  not  relieve  the  housekeeper  from  the  responsibility  of 
seeing  that  it  is  kept  in  proper  receptacles  and  removed  at 
the  proper  time.  No  matter  where  one  lives,  it  is  possible 
to  control  this  matter  so  that  it  shall  not  be  a  menace  to  the 
health  or  offensive  to  the  sight. 

Everything  feasible  should  be  done  to  dispose  of  the  house- 
hold refuse  in  the  shortest  period  possible. 

There  are  two  kinds  of  refuse  which  the  housekeeper  has 
to  deal  with.  One  belongs  especially  to  the  kitchen— vege- 
table and  animal  refuse;  the  other  is  the  ashes,  sweepings, 
etc.,  from  all  parts  of  the  house. 

There  are  two  modes  of  disposing  of  the  kitchen  garbage. 
The  first  and  most  sanitary  is  by  burning;  but  this  is  not 
Tw  modes  alwavs  possible,  particularly  in  large  families  where 
of  dispos-  many  fresh  vegetables  and  fruits  are  used.  The 
ing  of  gar-  seconci  method  is  to  place  the  garbage  in  a  tub, 
which  is  emptied  two  or  three  times  a  week,  as 
the  case  may  be.  This  tub  must  be  washed  each  time  it  is 
emptied,  and  once  a  week  in  warm  weather  it  should  be  rinsed 
with  carbolic  water— a  teaspoonful  of  carbolic  acid  to  a  pint 
of  water. 

If  one  lives  on  a  farm,  of  course  all  the  refuse  food  is 

utilized  while  yet  fresh  for  the  animals  on  the  place.     But 

when  one  lives  in  the  country,  and  yet  not  on  a 

^fusein'   farm>  some  other  wa^ must  be  foun(i  to  dispose  of 
country      this  refuse.    If  it  must  be  kept  on  the  grounds,  the 

Psmaii0r  l)est  way  is  to  have  a  garDage-heap  as  far  from 
towns.  the  house  as  possible.  Sprinkle  it  generously 
each  day  with  lime.  Ashes  and  other  refuse 
should  be  put  in  barrels,  never  in  bins  or  heaped  on  the 
ground,  either  in  the  cellar  or  in  the  yard.  In  barrels  they 
require  but  one  handling,  and  can  be  taken  from  the  premises 
without  much  trouble.  They  should  be  removed  as  often  as 
possible.  Ashes  dry  out  the  barrels,  it  is  true,  but  they  may 
be  prevented  from  dropping  to  pieces  by  rinsing  in  water. 


DAILY  ROUTINE  OF  HOUSEHOLD  WORK  93 

The  back  yards,  outbuildings,  etc.,  should  have  the  same 
care  as  the  house.     Everything  must  be  kept  in  order,  no 
damp  or  decaying  substance  left  in  dark  or  out- 
of-the-way  places.  JJ-JJ 

There  is  now  on  the  market  a  most  valuable  in-    back  yards 

vention,  which  can  be  attached  to  the  range,  and  in    must  have 

°  same  care 

which  all  the  kitchen  refuse  can  be  carbonized.       as  houses. 

CARE   OF   THE   PLUMBING 

The  more  plumbing  there  is  in  the  house,  the  greater  the 
responsibility  of  those  in  charge.  If,  however,  it  is  the  best 
of  its  kind,  with  an  abundant  supply  of  water  for  flushing, 
and  each  person  understands  and  does  his  or  her  duty,  there 
need  be  no  trouble. 

Simply  letting  dirty  water  or  other  substances  discharge 
into  the  pipes  is  not  enough.  There  should  be  such  a  generous 
rush  of  water  following  that  every  particle  of  contaminating 
substance  shall  be  carried  at  once  from  the  pipes  into  the  sewer. 

Nothing  is  more  common  than  to  find  that  this  is  neglected, 
even  by  well-educated  people  who  should  know  better.     It 
would  not  be  a  bad  plan  to  have  a  printed  notice     The  need 
in  the  closet  of  every  private  house,  as  is  often    of  having 
the  case  in  public  places,  to  the  effect  that  the      printed 

*  notices  in 

valve  from  the  flushing-tank  should  be  kept  open     closets  in 

for  a  certain  period  of  time,  that  at  least  two  or      private 

three  gallons  of  water  may  flow  into  the  pipes. 

When  set  bow's  are  used,  it  is  not  enough  that  the  soiled 
water  is  allowed  to  pass  into  the  pipes;  it  should  be  followed 
by  some  clean  water. 

Kitchen  and  other  sinks  where  dishes  are  washed,  and 
where  greasy  water  and  the  water  in  which  strong-odored 
vegetables  have  been  cooked  are  poured  down  the     Thorough 
pipes,  should  have  a  thorough  flushing  with  hot  wa-    fl  ^tchen 
ter,  followed  by  cold  water,  two  or  three  times  a  day.        sink. 


94  HOME  ECONOMICS 

Whenever  the  water  in  which  cabbages,  cauliflower,  tur- 
nips, beans,  etc.,  have  been  cooked  is  poured  into  the  drain, 
it  should  be  followed  immediately  by  plenty  of  cold  water. 
Should  one  live  in  the  country,  where  water  for  flushing  is 
not  plentiful,  such  refuse  water  had  better  be  poured  on  the 
earth,  some  distance  from  the  house. 

Liquid  grease  will  chill  as  it  reaches  the  pipes,  and  it  will 
often  cling  to  the  sides.     Other  substances  attach  them- 
idquid      selves  to  the  particles  of  grease,  and,  naturally,  if 
grease  will   nothing  be  done  to  wash  the  pipes  clean,  these 
ouTtrouble    substances  decompose  and  send  their  vile  odors 
if  it  is      through  all  the  pipes  and  into  every  part  of  the 
rernSif  *&    nouse-     ^  is  not  an  uncommon  thing  to  find  this 
cling  to      odor  in  houses  where  the  plumbing  is  apparently 
sides  of      0f  the  best.     It  is  beyond  the  plumber's  art  to 
prevent  this,  but  it  is  within  the  power  of  every 
housekeeper  to  avoid  it.     Once  knowing  what  causes  the 
A  strong     trouble,  the  remedy  is  simple.     A  strong  hot  so- 
tionwm     luti°n  °f  washing-soda  will  dissolve  the  grease, 
dissolve      and  if  enough  hot  water  follow  to  carry  it  from 
grease.      ^he  pjpes  the  trouble  is  removed. 
Sometimes  in  large  establishments  like  boarding-houses 
and  hotels  the  amount  of  grease  from  dish-washing  is  quite 
large,  and,  there  being  so  many  people  at  the  work,  the  re- 
sponsibility is  not  placed  on  any  one,  and  the  accumulation 
of  grease  and  other  putrefying  substances  is  often  so  great 
that  a  more  caustic  agent  than  common  washing-soda  is 
required.     In  that  case  pour  dissolved  potash  into  the  pipes. 
The  kitchen  and  pantry  sinks  should  be  treated 
treat       w^n  a  h°t  solution  of  washing-soda  at  least  once 
kitchen      a  week.     One  should  not  wait  until  an  odor  is 
a  week?    perceptible,  but  attend  to  this  regularly,  the  same 
as  washing  or  any  other  cleaning  process. 
All  the  plumbing  is  better  for  being  rinsed  with  the  hot 
solution  of  soda,  but  once  a  month  answers  for  all  parts  of 


DAILY  ROUTINE  OF  HOUSEHOLD  WORK  95 

the  house,  except  the  sink,  provided  the  plumbing  is  in 
good  condition  and  there  is  no  illness  in  the  house.  In 
case  of  illness  it  is  well  to  use  a  disinfectant  -^  cage  of 
every  few  days.  If  the  disease  be  contagious  the  illness  in 
disinfectant  should  be  used  every  day  for  the  a^fec* 
protection  not  only  of  the  family,  but  of  the  whole  tants 
neighborhood.  freely' 

When  using  chemicals  in  bath-room  and  set  bowls  the 
metal  around  the  pipes  should  be  protected.  This  is  easily 
done.  Have  a  funnel  which  fits  into  the  opening 
in  the  pipe,  and  through  this  pour  the  chemicals.  protect  the 
Where  the  openings  of  the  pipes  are  covered  with  pipeswhen 
strainers,  the  point  of  the  funnel  can  be  flattened  ch£JJJ§llgt 
to  fit  the  long,  narrow  openings. 

When  strong  acids  or  very  caustic  alkalis  are     Ttorough 
used  to  disinfect  the  plumbing,  they  should  be    flushing  of 
followed,  after  a  short  interval,  with  a  thorough     Jjjnrtfol! 
flushing  of  the  pipes.  low  the  use 

Washing-soda  is  not  injurious  to  the  metal  °afc^rs°"f 
pipes;  but  when  the  caustic  potash  is  used,  it  is  alkalis. 
best  to  flush  thoroughly  in  about  half  an  hour. 

To  prepare  the  washing-soda  for  the  pipes,  cover  one  pint 
of  soda  with  three  gallons  of  boiling  water,  and  let  it 
remain  on  the  fire   until   all   the  soda  is  dis-      Howto 
solved.     Pour  this,  boiling  hot,  into  the  pipes,      prepare 
Use   two   quarts   for   each    of   the   sinks;   the    "*$£" 
remainder  to  be  poured  into  pipes  of  the  set 
bowls,   bath-tubs,   closets,   laundry-tubs,   etc. 

The  sink-pipes  should  be  made  warm  by  pouring  boiling 
water  into  them  before  pouring  in  the  hot  solution. 

If  there  should  be  a  stoppage  of  the  pipes  by  grease, 
make  the  solution  four  times  as  strong. 

To  prepare  the  potash  for  the  sinks,  open  a      How  to 
pound  box,  and  put  the  potash  in  a  large  pitcher;    potash  for 
then  add  two  quarts  of  cold  water,  and  stir  with     the  sinks. 


96  HOME  ECONOMICS 

a  wooden  stick  until  nearly  all  the  crystals  are  dissolved. 
Have  the  pipes  warmed  with  boiling  water,  and  pour  in  the 
solution  of  potash.  When  using  potash,  protect  the  hands 
with  old  gloves;  turn  the  contents  from  the  box  very  care- 
fully and  gently;  keep  the  mouth  closed;  be  careful  not  to 
drop  any  of  the  liquid  on  your  clothing  or  floor,  as  it  will 
destroy  color,  fabric,  paint,  or  varnish. 

There  are  many  chemicals  that  both  disinfect  and  deo- 
dorize the  plumbing;  most  of  them,  however,  replace  the 
obnoxious  odor  by  one  of  their  own.  This  is  the 
m^dto-  case  with  carbolic  acid,  which  is  a  reliable  disin- 
fectants an  f ectant,  but  which  many  persons  dislike  to  use  be- 
^^f0    cause  of  the  strong  and  lasting  odor.    When  one 

buoir  use.  m  ,       .         .... 

realizes  how  clean  and  effective  this  chemical  is, 
the  odor  will  not  be  a  great  barrier  to  its  use. 

Potassium  permanganate  is  a  good  disinfectant  and  deo- 
dorizer.    It  is  odorless,  and  perfectly  safe  to  use  anywhere. 
It  has  been  demonstrated  that  disinfectants  must  come  in 
contact  with  the  organism  that  produces  putrefaction  or 
disease  in  order  to  kill  it;  therefore,  whatever 
tant^must    substance  may  be  used,  it  should  be  applied  in 
come  in      such  a  manner  that  it  shall  reach  all  the  sides  of 
withtiie     *ne  piPes-    To  do  this  the  solution  must  be  poured 
cause  of     into  the  pipes  in  such  a  quantity  that  they  shall 

^IniL    be  filled  for  at  least  an  instant.     Make  about  a 
order  to  re- 
move it.      five-per-cent.  solution  of  carbolic  acid  by  adding 

ten  ounces  of  the  crystals  or  liquid  carbolic  acid 
must  be      to  about  three  gallons  of  water.    This  answers  for 
used  in      basins,  bath-tubs,  etc. ;  but  the  water  which  rests 
quantityto    *n  ^ne  °owl  of  the  water-closet  dilutes  whatever 
reach  all     substance  may  be  poured  into  it;  therefore  this 
pipes       wa^er  must  have  a  stronger  dose  of  the  disinfec- 
tant.   Pour  a  little  carbolic  acid  into  this  bowl,  and 
then  pour  in  about  two  quarts  of  the  carbolic-acid  solution. 
Do  not  open  the  valve  of  the  flushing-tank,  as  that  would 


DAILY  ROUTINE  OF  HOUSEHOLD  WORK  97 

dilute  and  carry  the  disinfectant  away  before  it  had  time  to 
do  its  work.  Pour  the  solution  into  the  pipe  quickly,  that 
there  may  be  volume  enough  of  the  liquid  to  touch  all  sides 
as  it  flows  down.  Do  not  flush  for  twenty  or  thirty  minutes; 
then  flush  thoroughly. 

Potassium  permanganate  is  used  in  the  same  manner. 
Dissolve  half  a  pound  in  four  gallons  of  water.  It  will  give 
a  rich  purple  solution.  A  few  of  the  crystals  may  be 
dropped  into  the  pipes  at  any  time. 

There  are  many  disinfecting  articles  on  the  market;  some 
of  them  are  very  good.  Directions  as  to  how  they  shall 
be  used  come  with  them. 

Copperas  is  excellent  to  use  in  drains  and  closets.  The 
solution  should  be  strong,  about  three  pounds  to  two  gallons 
of  water. 

Careless  and  ignorant  people  are  the  cause  of  a     Careiess- 
great  deal  of  trouble  with  plumbing.    They  throw   usual  cause 
all  sorts  of  things  into  the  bowls  and  closets.     It    of  trouble 
is  important  that  each  person  should  be  made  to    piling, 
see  the  necessity  of  treating  these  conveniences     Greatest 
with  the  greatest  care  and  respect.     But  the    enemy  of 
greatest  enemy  of  the  pipes  is  any  fibrous  sub-    *  eP1Pes- 
stance  that  can  wind  itself  around  joints  and  traps.     Hair 
and  lint  are  worse  than  any  other  substance  in  clogging 
pipes. 

Well-worn  linty  cloths  should  not  be  used  for    Avo*d  the 
cleaning  in  a  house  where  there  is  plumbing.   You      or  unty 
will  do  the  sick  and  yourself  a  favor  by  sending    cloths  for 
all  the  worn  white  cotton  and  linen  where  there  is     pu^p^f. 
illness,  rather  than  keeping  it  for  cleaning  pur- 
poses.    Dish-cloths,  as  soon  as  they  become  so  worn  that 
they  give  off  fine  particles  of  lint,  should  be  destroyed;  so 
should  floor-  and  all  other  cleaning-cloths. 


CHAPTER  V 

THE  LAUNDRY 

Soaking  the  clothes.  Washing  the  clothes.  Summary  of  the  work.  To 
prepare  bluing-water.  Flannels.  Colored  flannels.  Summary.  Blan- 
kets. Colored-cotton  articles.  Washing  with  starch.  To  make  the 
starch.  Silk  undergarments.  Washing  with  kerosene.  Lace  curtains. 
Starching.  To  make  gum-arabic  starch.  Stiffening  with  gelatin.  Boiled 
starch.  Raw  starch.  Hanging  clothes  out  to  dry.  Folding  clothes  for 
ironing.  Preparing  for  ironing.  Folding  the  clothes  after  ironing.  A 
few  words  about  the  clothes-wringer.  The  laundry.  How  to  dissolve 
soap.     How  to  clean  irons. 

The  laundry,  and  all  connected  with  it,  is  one  of  the 
branches  of  domestic  economy  which  we  keep  as  much  as 
Need  f      possible  out  of  sight,  and,  indeed,  out  of  mind.   Yet 
study  in     so  much  of  the  health,  comfort,  and  decency  of 
caring  for    jjfe  depend  upon  the  cleansing  of  the  personal 
and  household  linen  that  this  subject  should  be 
studied  carefully  and  intelligently  by  each  housekeeper.    It 
is  very  important  that  the  fabrics  should  be  washed  in  such 
a  manner  that  all  dirt  shall  be  removed  without  too  great  a 
strain  upon  the  tissue  of  the  fabric.     The  best  authorities 
are  divided  as  to  the  most  effectual  means  of  doing  this 
Hard  rubbing  wears  the  fabric;  chemicals  loosen  the  dirt 
and  thus  relieve  the  cloth  from  so  much  or  so  hard  rub- 
bing; but  at  the  same  time  the  chemical  does  not  stop  with 
the  dirt— it  attacks  the  fabric  also.     It  has  seemed  to  me 

98 


THE  LAUNDRY  99 

that  an  intelligent  use  of  chemicals  to  aid  in  loosening  the 
dirt  is  better  than  hard  rubbing  alone;  but  if  the  chemical 
is  not  used  with  the  greatest  care  and  intelli- 
gence, the  use  of  soap  and  water  and  extra  rub-       gence" 
bing  must  be  relied  upon.     One  great  trouble  in     needed  if 
using  a  chemical  in  the  laundry,  as  elsewhere  in    caMnsed? 
the  house,  is  that  it  is  expected  to  do  all  the  work, 
instead  of  its  being  looked  upon  simply  as  an  aid.     The 
chemical  most  commonly  used  in  the  laundry  is  sal-soda.    If 
the  water  is  hard,  this  or  some  other  substance  is  almost  a 
necessity. 

When  using  soda,  ammonia,  borax,  Javelle  water,  etc.,  it 
must  always  be  borne  in  mind  that  they  must  not  be  used 
in  such  quantities  that  they  do  away  with  the  work 
of  rubbing.  The  rubbing  will  be  less  hard,  and  j^a,-^ 
may  be  done  in  less  time;  that  is  all.  The  chem- 
ical loosens  the  dirt,  so  that  it  yields  quickly  to  sopping, 
squeezing,  or  rubbing.  All  chemicals  should  be  dissolved 
and  then  mixed  with  the  water. 

All  clothing  should  be  rinsed  very  thoroughly.      Careful 
When  a  chemical  is  employed  the  necessity  for    n^ss^y. 
thorough  rinsing  is  even  more  important  than  when 
only  soap  and  water  are  used.    A  chemical  should  be  thor- 
oughly dissolved  and  mixed  with  the  water  before  the  clothes 
are  put  in  the  tubs. 


SOAKING   THE    CLOTHES 

Good  laundresses  are  not  all  of  the  same  opinion  as  to  the 
desirability  of  soaking  the  clothes  several  hours  before 
washing.  It  seems  to  me  reasonable  that  the  dirt  should 
yield  more  readily  when  the  fabric  has  been  soaked  in  tepid 
suds,  or  even  in  cold  water,  for  several  hours;  and  certainly 
when  an  alkali  is  used  in  this  manner  it  does  its  best  work, 
because  it  has  time  to  act  upon  the  dirt,  which  is  removed 


100  HOME  ECONOMICS 

with  ease  when  the  articles  are  put  into  fresh  suds  and 
rubbed  by  the  laundress. 

Monday  is  the  accepted  wash-day  among  most  house- 
keepers, but  there  are  many  who  take  Monday  for  preparing 
for  the  washing.    This  is  a  matter  which  every  housekeeper 
must  decide  for  herself. 
Ml  ar_         As  far  as  possible,  the  clothing  should  be  mended 
ments      before  it  is  put  in  the  wash;  a  rip  or  tear  may  in- 

should  be    crease  ten  times  the  original  size  in  the  process 
mended  .  ,  : ?      . 

before      oi  washing,  drying,  and  ironing. 

washing.        Every  article  should  be  looked  over  for  stains, 

stains       and  if  there  are  any  that  soap  and  water  will  not 

should  be     remove,  or,  still  worse,  will  set,  they  should  be 

taken  out  at  once,  if  possible.     Next,  the  clothing 

should  be  sorted,  the  finest  and  cleanest  being  put  in  a  heap 

by  themselves,  the  most  soiled  and  the  medium  soiled  in  other 

heaps. 

Cut  laundry  soap  in  fine  shavings,  and  put  it,  with  boiling 

water,  on  the  back  of  the  range,  where  it  will  dissolve  slowly. 

H     tubs    ^n*s  snou^  De  done  an  nour  or  more  before  it  is 

shall  be      time  to  soak  the  clothes.     Fill  three  tubs  half 

prepared     fuu  0f  tepid  water,  add  enough  of  the  dissolved 
for  clothes.  *  .  , '  ,    6      ,        .    .,       ,, 

soap  to  make  a  strong  suds,  and  put  the  three 

heaps  of  clothes  in  the  suds,  having  the  most  soiled  pieces 

in  a  pile  at  the  bottom  and  the  cleanest  pieces  on  top.    Rub 

a  little  soap  on  the  portions  of  the  personal  linen— the  neck 

and  sleeve-bands,  for  example— that  are  most  soiled;  if  soda 

must  be  used,  this  is  the  time  for  it.     Mix  the  dissolved  soda 

in  the  suds  before  the  clothes  are  put  in. 


WASHING    THE   CLOTHES 

In  the  morning  wring  out  the  two  tubfuls  of  the  cleanest 
clothes.  Wash  the  tubs,  and  fill  nearly  half  full  with  water 
as  hot  as  you  can  bear  your  hand.     Fill  the  boiler  half  full 


THE  LAUNDRY  101 

of  cold  water,  and  add  enough  dissolved  soap  to  make  a 
light  suds.     Put  the  cleanest  clothes  in  one  of  the  tubs  of 
hot  water,  and  wash  them,  using  soap  wherever        H 
it  is  needed.    As  the  clothes  are  washed  turn      clothes 
them  and  wring  them,  then  drop  them  into  the      jjjjjj  *Je 
second  tub  of  water,  and  wash  them  a  second 
time  in  it,  using  soap,  if  there  is  necessity,  as  before.    As 
each  piece  is  wrung  from  this  water,  soap  it,  and  drop  it 
into  the  cold  water  in  the  boiler;  when  the  boiler  is  full, 
light  the  fire,  and  let  the  clothes  scald,  pressing  them  down 
in  the  water  with  a  wooden  stick.     If  the  boiler  is  to  be 
placed  on  the  top  of  the  range,  put  it  in  place  before  filling. 
If  soda  is  used,  put  in  a  tablespoonful  of  liquid  soda  (see 
"  Liquid  Soda  ")  to  every  three  pailf uls  of  water. 

While  the  first  tubful  of  clothes  is  scalding,  rub  out  the 
second  in  the  same  manner,  and  then  continue  with  the  third. 

When  the  first  boilerful  of  clothes  is  scalded,  take  them 
up  and  put  them  in  a  tubful  of  cold  water,  rinse,  and  then 
rinse  in  a  tubful  of  bluing- water;  then  hang  out  to  dry.  The 
sun  and  pure  air  will  give  the  clothes  a  whiteness  and 
sweetness  that  nothing  else  can.  This  is  the  treatment  for 
all  white  clothes. 

In  the  whole  process  of  laundering  there  is    Biasing  of 
nothing  as  important  as  thorough  rinsing.     No     fortance" 
matter  what  care  has  been  taken  with  other  work, 
if  the  clothes  are  not  thoroughly  rinsed  they  will  never  have 
a  good  color. 

SUMMARY  OF  THE  WORK 

1.  Mend. 

2.  Remove  stains. 

3.  Sort  the  clothes. 

4.  Dissolve  soap;  make  tepid  suds  in  three  tubs;  put 
pieces  most  soiled  at  bottom  and  cleanest  on  top.  Soak 
overnight. 


102  *   "S     HOME -ECONOMICS 

5.  On  wasfciftg^la)T  wring  clothes  from  soaking-water;  fill 
two  tubs  with  hot  water,  add  dissolved  soap  and  soda,  if 
used;  fill  boiler  with  cold  water;  wash  clothes  out  of  one 
water,  then  in  second;  soap,  and  put  in  boiler.  Light  fire 
under  boiler.  When  clothes  are  scalded  rinse  in  two  or 
three  clean  waters,  then  in  bluing-water;  wring  dry,  and 
hang  in  open  air  to  dry.  All  the  white  clothes  are  to  be 
treated  in  this  manner. 

TO   PREPARE  BLUING-WATER 

The  water  for  bluing  may  be  cold  or  tepid.  If  liquid 
blue  is  used,  pour  a  little  in  the  water  and  stir  it  well. 
Take  some  of  the  water  in  the  hand,  and  if  it  is  sky-blue  it 
is  dark  enough. 

The  ball-blue  is  safe  and  satisfactory.     Put  the  balls  in  a 
small  flannel  bag,  and  tie  firmly.   Fill  a  bowl  with  tepid  water, 
and  move  the  blue-bag  through  the  water  until  it 
atouse.Ue    becomes  a  deep  dark  blue;  then  pour  it  into  the 
tub.     Test  the  water  to  see  if  it  is  blue  enough. 
It  must  be  remembered  that  soft,  loosely  woven  fabrics 
absorb  the  blue  much  more  readily  than  closely  woven  stuffs. 
What  fab-    Never  ^  clothes  stand  in  bluing-water,  as  it  will 
rics  absorb    make  them  streaked. 
reallil!  As  each  article  absorbs  a  portion  of  the  blue  in 

the  water,  those  that  are  put  in  first  will  be  bluer 
than  those  that  follow.  A  good  plan  is  to  blue  the  water 
only  slightly  at  first,  adding  a  little  of  the  dissolved  blue  as 
the  pieces  are  rinsed. 

FLANNELS 

In  washing  flannels  the  first  care  is  to  prevent  them  from 
shrinking  and  to  keep  them  soft.  They  should  be  washed 
on  a  clear  bright  day,  and  dried  as  quickly  as  possible. 


THE  LAUNDRY  103 

Shake  all  lint  and  dust  from  the  flannels.  Prepare  three 
tubs  with  water  as  warm  as  the  hand  can  bear  comforta- 
bly. Put  enough  dissolved  soap  in  one  tub  to 
make  a  strong  suds,  and  to  every  three  gallons  WaSMng. 
of  water  add  one  tablespoonful  of  borax  dis- 
solved in  a  pint  of  hot  water,  or  instead  of  the  borax 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  household  ammonia  may  be  used. 
Put  the  white  flannels  in  this  suds,  and  wash  them  by  sop- 
ping up  and  down  and  squeezing;  rub  them  as  little  as 
possible.  Squeeze  them  from  this  suds,  and  wash  them 
in  a  second  tub  of  warm  water,  to  which  has  been  added  a 
little  dissolved  soap.  Turn  the  garments  in  this  water.  If 
you  like  a  little  bluing  in  the  flannels,  have  a  third  water  of 
the  same  temperature  as  the  other  two,  make  it  slightly 
blue,  and  put  the  washed  flannels  in  it.  Then  put  the  flan- 
nels through  the  wringer,  shake  them  well,  and  hang  in  the 
open  air  to  dry.  Before  they  are  quite  dry  take  them  in, 
fold  and  roll  in  a  clean  cloth,  and  iron  as  soon  as  possible. 
The  iron  should  not  be  very  hot,  and  there  should  be  a  great 
deal  of  pressure  used. 

Rubbing  flannel  thickens  and  hardens  it.     Inequality  in 
the  temperature  of  the  water  in  which  flannels  are  washed 
and  rinsed  shrinks  them.     Never  use  yellow  soap 
for  washing  flannels,  because  it  contains  resin,      fl^e™ 
which  is  bad  for  woolens. 

If  the  water  is  hard,  a  little  dissolved  borax  or  ammonia 
may  be  put  in  the  last  water.  This  will  keep  the  flannels 
soft.  If  the  state  of  the  weather  interferes  with  the  drying 
in  the  open  air,  hang  the  flannels  in  a  warm  room,  but  not 
too  near  the  fire,  heating-pipes,  or  register,  as  a  high  tem- 
perature will  harden  and  shrink  them. 

The  temperature  of  the  water  in  which  flan-     Tempera- 
nels  are  washed   is   not  as  important   as  that      ^[tei* 
each  successive  tubful  through  which  they  are      must  be 
passed  should  be  kept  at  the  same  tempera-     ^form, 


104  HOME  ECONOMICS 

ture  from  the  beginning  of  the  washing  of  the  flannels  to 

the  end.    The  work  should  be  done  as  quickly  as  possible, 

and  only  one  or  two  pieces  should  be  wet  at  a  time.    As 

soon  as  the  flannels  are  wrung  out  of  the  rinsing-water, 

shake  them  out  and  hang  them  out  to  dry.    The  thicker  side 

should  be  uppermost.     Pin  the  flannels  on  the  line  in  such 

a  manner  that  they  will  not  be  pulled  out  of  shape. 

D    .  Loosely  knitted  or  crocheted  articles  are  likely 

loosely      to  get  out  of  shape  if  hung  up  to  dry  in  the  ordi- 

wo.ven       nary  way.    Pull  them  into  shape,  and  lay  them  on 

a  piece  of  cloth,— a  piece  of  a  sheet  is  good  for 

this,— and  fasten  them  in  place  with  safety-pins.    When  the 

garments  are  half  dry,  turn  the  sheet  upside  down,  that  all 

parts  may  be  subjected  to  an  equal  strain. 

COLORED   FLANNELS 

These  are  washed  in  the  same  way  as  the  white  flannels, 
omitting  the  borax  and  ammonia,  except  when  very  hard 
water  has  to  be  used;  in  that  case  a  little  borax  may  be  put 
in  the  water. 

In  washing  blue  flannels  the  color  may  be  revived  by 
acetic  acid  or  vinegar.  Put  about  a  tablespoonful  of  the 
acid  or  a  gill  of  vinegar  in  the  rinsing-water. 

SUMMARY 

1.  Shake  flannels  free  from  lint  and  dust. 

2.  Wash  in  strong  suds  which  contains  either  borax  or 
ammonia. 

3.  Rinse  in  water  of  the  same  temperature  as  the  suds. 

4.  Never  rub  or  wring  flannels  with  the  hands,  as  this 
twists  and  hardens  the  texture. 

5.  Dry  as  quickly  as  possible,  but  press  before  fully  dried. 
Do  not  use  hot  water  with  flannels.  Use  borax  with  colored 
flannels,  as  ammonia  changes  the  colors. 


THE  LAUNDRY  105 


BLANKETS 


Select  a  clear  windy  day  on  which  to  have  the  blankets 
washed.  If  there  are  colored  bindings  on  the  blankets,  take 
them  off  and  replace  them  with  white  ones.  When  and 

Examine  the  blankets  to  see  if  there  are  any      how  to 
places  that  are  very  much  soiled;  these  should  be    wa&h  bian- 
kept  in  mind  during  the  washing. 

Half  fill  two  tubs  with  hot  water.  Pour  enough  dissolved 
soap  into  one  tub  to  make  a  very  strong  suds,  and  into  the 
second  tub  pour  about  half  as  much  soap. 

Dissolve  three  tablespoonf  uls  of  borax  in  a  quart  of  water, 
and  pour  half  of  this  mixture  into  each  tub. 

Shake  the  blankets  well  to  remove  dust  and  lint.  Put 
them  in  the  first  tub,  and  sop  them  up  and  down  until  the 
dirt  appears  to  have  been  removed.  Squeeze  the  water 
from  them  and  put  them  in  the  next  tub,  washing  them 
again  in  the  same  manner. 

Now  rinse  the  blankets  in  a  very  weak  suds,  and  run  them 
through  the  wringer.  The  screws  that  tighten  the  rollers 
of  the  wringer  must  be  loosened  for  thick  blankets.  After 
they  have  been  through  the  wringer,  shake  the  blankets 
well,  and  hang  them  out  to  dry,  pinning  them  in  several 
places  so  that  an  undue  strain  will  not  come  on  any  one 
part.  All  three  waters  in  which  the  blankets  are  washed 
must  be  of  the  same  temperature. 

If  there  are  any  spots  that  the  sopping  and    How  to  re- 
pressing  do  not  remove,  spread  that  part  of  the 
blanket  on  a  board  and  rub  it  with  a  brush.    This  does  not 
twist  the  fiber,  as  would  the  rubbing  with  the  hands  or  on 
the  wash-board. 

Wash  only  two  blankets  at  a  time.  Have  fresh  water  for 
every  pair.  As  this  is  heavy  work,  one  woman  should  not  be 
required  to  wash  more  than  two  pairs  of  blankets  in  one  day. 


106  HOME  ECONOMICS 

The  blankets  should  be  perfectly  dry  before  they  are 

taken  from  the  lines,  and  then  they  should  be  folded  care- 

The  best     f^Y-     To  press  the  blankets,  spread  a  sheet  on 

way  to      the  table  and  put  the  folded  blankets  on  it;  draw 

press  bian-    ^he  sides  of  the  sheet  over  them  so  as  to  cover 

K6tS 

them  completely.  Place  a  board  on  the  top  of  the 
pile,  and  on  it  put  a  heavy  weight;  let  the  blankets  remain 
under  this  for  a  day  or  two.   This  will  press  them  sufficiently. 

COLORED-COTTON  ARTICLES 

Colored  cottons  must  be  washed,  dried,  and  ironed  with 
great  care  to  prevent  their  fading  and  "  running." 

No  alkali  or  strong  alkaline  soap  should  be  used  on  them; 
for  soda,  ammonia,  Javelle  water,  etc.,  will  destroy  the  color. 
Whenever  it  is  possible,  they  should  be  washed  without  soap. 
Starch  of  any  kind  may  be  substituted  for  soap. 

Water  ^e  wa*er  m  which  colored  cottons  are  washed 

should  be     should  never  be  hot;  it  should  be  merely  warm. 

warm, not    soap  should  not  be  rubbed  on  colored  cottons: 

they  should  be  washed  in  strong  suds  made  with 

warm  water  and  dissolved  soap. 

These  fabrics  must  be  rinsed  in  two  rinsing-waters,  and 

salt  should  be  put  in  these  waters  to  prevent  the  colors  from 

running.     If  there  are  blue  garments  that  have 

oredWmate-    become  a  little  faded,  put  a  cupful  of  vinegar  in 

rials        the  last  rinsing-water, 
rinsed^d       Colored  materials  are  starched,  before  being 

dried.       dried,  with  boiled  starch.   All  colored  pieces  should 
be  dried  as  quickly  as  possible,  and  in  the  shade. 

Wash  the  articles  in  a  strong  suds;  wring  them  from  this, 
and  drop  them  into  a  tub  of  cold  water  in  which  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  salt  have  been  dissolved. 

When  all  have  been  washed  in  the  suds,  rinse  them  in  the 
first  rinsing-water,  and  again  in  a  second.     Have  the  starch 


THE  LAUNDRY  107 

cold,  thin,  and  strained,  and  put  enough  for  one  or  two  pieces 
in  a  bowl.  Dip  each  piece  in  this,  wring  dry,  and  hang  out. 
When  the  starch  gets  thin,  add  some  of  the  fresh  When  ana 
starch  to  it  before  putting  in  another  piece.  Let  how  to 
colored  articles  get  perfectly  dry.  They  should  st0a/ecdhfaCb°?" 
be  dampened  only  a  short  time  before  being  ironed.        rics. 

WASHING   WITH   STARCH 

Colored  garments  washed  with  starch  have  the  texture 
and  appearance  of  a  new  fabric.  Any  kind  of  starch  may 
be  used.  The  points  to  be  careful  of  are  that  there  shall  be 
starch  enough  to  remove  the  dirt,  that  the  starch  shall  be 
strained  so  that  there  are  no  lumps,  and  that  in  ironing  the 
garment  shall  be  ironed  thoroughly. 

The  starch  may  be  made  from  common  flour,  corn-starch, 
fine  laundry  starch,  grated  potatoes,  rice-flour,  or  the  water 
in  which  rice  has  been  boiled.   It  should  be  as  thick 
as  thin  cream,  and  this  should  be  diluted  with  four   Ho™tarch 

may  bo 

times  its  volume  of  warm  water— one  quart  of       made, 
starch  to  four  quarts  of  water.     These  propor- 
tions are  for  the  first  water  in  which  the  garment  is  washed. 
The  second  water  should  be  composed  of  eight  quarts  of 
water  and  one  quart  of  starch. 

TO   MAKE    THE   STARCH 

Mix  to  a  smooth  paste  half  a  cupful  of  corn-starch,  or 
rice-starch,  and  one  pint  of  cold  water.     Pour  on  this,  stir- 
ring all  the  time,  three  quarts  of  boiling  water. 
Cook  for  five  minutes,  stirring  continually,  then    ^JJJJfljJ1 
add  three  quarts  of  cold  water,  and  strain  through       made. 
cheese-cloth. 

Flour-starch  is  made  in  the  same  manner,  except  that  a 
cupful  of  flour  is  used, 


108  HOME  ECONOMICS 

To  wash  a  garment  with  the  starch,  put  two  and  one  half 

quarts  of  the  starch  into  a  tub  with  eight  quarts  of  water. 

To  wash     Wash  the  garment  in  this  thoroughly,  just  as 

garments    you  would  with  soap-suds.     Have  eight  quarts 

with       0f  warm  water  in  a  second  tub,  and  one  pint 

of  the  starch.     The  garment  is  to  be  washed 

in  this  water,  and  rinsed  in  plenty  of  cold  water.     Turn 

it  wrong  side  out,  and  put  on  the  line  at  once.     When 

dry,  sprinkle,  and  iron  on  the  wrong  side.     The  method  of 

washing  with  starch  is  by  all  odds  the  most  satisfactory  for 

dark  prints,  cambrics,  sateens,  etc.     Garments  that  are  very 

much  soiled  require  twice  the  quantity  of  starch  mentioned 

above. 

SILK   UNDERGARMENTS 

Articles  made  of  silk  should  always  be  washed  in  tepid 

water,  and  the  soap  used  on  them  should  not  be  caustic. 

Materials    White  Castile  soap,  or  any  good  white  soap,  will 

used  in      answer.    If  the  silks  are  to  be  kept  white,  ammonia 

washing     should  not  be  used,  as  it  gives  a  yellow  tinge;  a 

little  borax,  however,  may  be  used.     If  the  silk  is 

of  an  ecru  shade,  ammonia  may  be  employed. 

Never  rub  silk  garments  on  the  board  in  washing;  always 
rub  them  with  the  hands. 

Make  a  strong  suds  of  tepid  water,  and  add  to  it  one 
teaspoonful  of  borax,  which  has  been  dissolved  in  a  pint  of 
Method  of  foiling  water.  This  is  enough  for  two  pailf uls  of 
washing  suds.  Put  the  silk  garments  into  it,  and  let  them 
and  press-  stand  for  twenty  minutes  or  half  an  hour;  then 
wash  them  with  the  hands.  Rinse  in  two  waters, 
run  through  the  wringer,  and  hang  them  out.  When  a  little 
more  than  half  dried,  take  them  in  and  spread  on  a  sheet. 
Roll  them  up  tightly,  let  them  stand  about  an  hour,  and  then 
press  them.  Use  a  rather  cool  iron,  and  have  a  clean  white 
cloth  or  brown  paper  between  the  iron  and  silk. 


THE  LAUNDRY  109 

In  washing  embroidered  linens  or  colored  silks,  omit  the 
borax  and  ammonia,  and  after  an  article  of  this  kind  has 
been  rinsed  and  passed  through  the  wringer,  spread  washingof 
it  smoothly  on  a  dry  sheet  and  roll  it  up.  Let  it  embroider- 
stand  about  fifteen  minutes,  then  press,  with  a  Sis^n 
cloth  between  the  fabric  and  the  iron.  "  colors. 

WASHING   WITH    KEROSENE 

Washing  white  clothing  with  kerosene  is  quite  common 
in  this  country  and  in  Europe.     I  give  directions  for  the 
method  of  doing  this,  not  because  I  like  it  or  ap-     Kerosene 
prove  of  it,  but  because,  if  it  is  done  at  all,  it  is      as  it  is 
best  that  it  should  be  done  properly.  ^^ the 

The  clothing  should  be  soaked  as  directed  in 
the  usual  method.     In  the  morning,  hot  water  should  be 
added  to  the  suds  in  which  the  clothes  have  soaked,  and  they 
should  be  rubbed  out  in  this  water. 

The  boiler  should  be  half  full  of  boiling  water,  to  which 
enough  dissolved  soap  may  be  added  to  make  a  strong  suds. 
Two  tablespoonfuls  of  kerosene  should  also  be  Itisimpor. 
added,  and  enough  of  the  washed  clothing  put  in  tant  that 
to  fill  the  boiler  moderately  full.  Let  the  pieces  ^^J" 
boil  half  an  hour.  added  to 

Take  the  clothes  from  the  boiler  at  the  end  of  ^J3^"9 
that  time,  and  put  them  in  a  tub  half  full  of  suds. 
Add  sufficient  cold  water  to  the  suds  in  the  boiler  to  fill  it 
half  full,  and  enough  soap  to  make  a  strong  suds.  When 
this  boils,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  kerosene,  put  in  a  second 
batch  of  the  clothes,  and  boil  half  an  hour.  Proceed  in  this 
manner  until  all  the  clothing  has  been  boiled. 

In  the  mean  time  wash  the  boiled  clothing  from  the  suds, 
rubbing  any  portions  that  are  not  clean;  rinse  in  three 
waters,  wring,  and  hang  out  to  dry. 

The  advantage  of  this  method  of  washing  is  that  it  does 


110  HOME  ECONOMICS 

away  with  much  rubbing;  but  there  must  be  the  greatest 
care  in  rinsing.  The  pieces  must  be  rinsed  in  many  waters; 
but  even  when  this  has  been  done  thoroughly,  I  have  never 
yet  seen  clothes  washed  by  this  process  that  did  not  retain 
a  slight  odor  of  the  kerosene.  This  is  most  disagreeable  in 
sheets,  pillow-cases,  towels,  and  napkins,  or,  indeed,  in  any 
article  that  comes  near  enough  to  the  face  to  allow  an  odor 
to  be  perceived.  One  of  the  charms  of  fresh  linen  is  the 
pure,  delicate  odor  that  should  be  a  part  of  it.  It  is  to  be 
hoped  that  this  method  of  washing  clothes  with  kerosene 
will  not  be  encouraged  by  housekeepers. 

LACE   CURTAINS 

The  difficulty  in  washing  lace  curtains  is  to  keep  them  in 

shape,  and  to  avoid  tearing  them.     As  they  will  not  bear 

hard  rubbing,  the  dirt  must  be  removed  by  soak- 

nMNsu^    ing  them'  and  S0PPinS  them  Sently- 

in  the  Fine  lace  curtains  should  not  be  made  too  stiff; 

washing  of  j^  ^e  COarser  the  lace,  the  more  starch  will  be 
tains.       required.     The  stiffening  may  be  of  starch,  gela- 
tin, or  gum  arabic.    Borax  helps  to  hold  the  stif- 
fening in  starched  materials. 

If  it  is  desired  to  give  the  lace  an  old  look,  dip  the  cur- 
tains in  tea  or  coffee  after  the  last  rinsing;  or  the  stiffening 
mixture  may  be  colored  with  tea,  coffee,  or  saf- 
fo°r°lace?     ^ron-     Coffee  is  apt  to  leave  an  odor. 

Fill  a  tub  half  full  of  tepid  water;  add  to  this 

half  a  pound  of  soap  dissolved  in  two  quarts  of  water,  and  two 

tablespoonfuls  of  borax  dissolved  in  a  quart  of  boiling  water. 

Method  of        Shake  the  dust  from  the  curtains,  and   put 

washing     them  to  soak  in  this  water,  letting  them  stand 

^tainsT"     overniSnt-     In  tne  morning  half  fill  a  tub  with 

hot  water,  and  add  a  tablespoonful  of  dissolved 

borax  and  enough  dissolved  soap  to  make  a  good  suds. 


THE  LAUNDRY  111 

Sop  the  curtains  from  the  water  in  which  they  have  been 
soaking.  Squeeze  the  water  from  them,  and  put  them  in  the 
hot  suds.  Sop  and  squeeze  them  in  this  water  until  all  the 
dirt  has  been  pressed  out,  then  rinse  them  in  clear  water 
until  there  is  no  trace  of  soap  or  dirt.  Squeeze  them  as 
dry  as  possible,  and  spread  them  on  the  grass,  or  hang  them 
on  the  lines,  to  dry.  When  dry,  starch  them,  and  draw  them 
into  the  shape  and  length  you  wish,  and  fasten 
them  into  the  frame,  if  you  have  one.  If  a  frame  **ow  to  dry 
is  lacking,  cover  a  mattress  with  a  clean  sheet,  tains, 
and  draw  the  curtains  into  shape  on  this,  pinning 
them  down.  The  mattress  should  be  outdoors,  or  in  a  room 
where  the  windows  may  be  kept  open.  Of  course  the  cur- 
tains will  have  to  be  folded  when  treated  in  this  way,  as  it 
would  not  be  possible  to  find  a  mattress  long  enough  to  ad- 
mit of  their  being  stretched  at  full  length. 

It  will  often  be  found  that,  after  washing,  the      Measure 
curtains  are  of  uneven  lengths.     To  obviate  this,      wae8iring 
measure  the  length  of  the  curtain  before  washing;    and  stretch 
then,  when  stretching  on  the  frame  or  mattress,    w  w*7" 
measure  both  sides,  and  stretch  them  to  get  the 
original  lengths.     When  this  is  done,  they  may  be  drawn 
gently  to  their  full  width.    The  curtains  will  hang  better  if, 
after  having  been  dried  in  this  manner,  they  are  pressed  with 
an  iron  that  is  not  very  hot. 


STARCHING 

Starching  should  be  done  with  the  greatest  care;  for  if  not 
properly  done,  the  articles  will  not  look  well,  no  Necessary 
matter  how  much  care  may  be  exercised  in  ironing.    care  ^nen 

Starch  is  made  from  a  great  variety  of  vegeta-    s  arc     g' 
bles.     Besides  the  pure  starch  which  is  generally    1jjjjjja 
used,  gums  and  gelatins  are  sometimes  employed      starch, 
for  special  articles,  like  silks,  laces,  veils,  curtains,  etc. 


112  HOME  ECONOMICS 

Turpentine  is  sometimes  used  in  raw  starch  to  give  a  gloss 
and  whiteness. 

1.  Borax  is  used  to  give  gloss  and  prevent  the  starched 
article  from  losing  stiffness  when  exposed  to  dampness. 
Boiling  for  a  long  time  makes  starch  clearer  and  less  likely 
to  stick. 

2.  For  muslins  it  is  very  important  that  the  starch  should 
be  thoroughly  boiled,  that  the  muslins  may  look  clear. 

3.  The  water  in  which  rice  has  been  boiled 
should*!*     makes  a  g°°d  starch  for  colored  articles,  white 

thoroughly    skirts,  and  any  garments  that  are  not  to  be  made 
muUaf?     verv  stiff*   Raw  starch  makes  articles  stiffer  than 
boiled  starch.   Sometimes  cuffs,  collars,  and  shirt- 
bosoms  that  have  been  starched  in  the  hot  boiled  starch  are 
dampened  with  raw  starch  to  give  them  extra  stiffness. 

4.  Thin  handkerchiefs,  silks,  laces,  etc.,  are  often 

?U1d auabt°    stmC ene(* w^  £um  aramc*  This  gives  them  a  finish 
fabrics.      like  a  new  article.   The  purest  gum  arabic  is  used 

for  this  purpose,  because  it  is  almost  colorless. 
Laces,  lace  veils,  silks,  etc.,  have  more  of  an  appearance 
of  newness  when  stiffened  with  this  preparation  than  when 
starch  is  used. 

TO   MAKE  GUM-ARABIC   STARCH 

Put  an  ounce  of  the  gum  in  a  wide-mouthed  bottle,  and 
cover  with  half  a  pint  of  cold  water.  Place  the  bottle  in  a 
pan  of  cold  water  on  the  fire.  When  the  gum  is  dissolved, 
strain  it  through  a  piece  of  cheese-cloth  into  another  bottle, 
and  when  it  is  cold  add  half  a  gill  of  alcohol.  Cork  and  put 
away  for  use.  A  portion  of  this  may  be  diluted  to  suit  the 
article  to  be  stiffened.  This  preparation  will  keep  for  years. 
Articles  stiffened  with  gum  arabic,  isinglass,  gelatin,  or  rice- 
water  are  apt  to  be  a  little  off  color,  so  it  is  best  not  to  use 
these  substances  when  absolute  whiteness  is  required. 


THE  LAUNDRY  113 


STIFFENING    WITH    GELATIN 

Either  gelatin  or  isinglass  makes  a  satisfactory  stiffening 

for  colored  fabrics.    Silks  that  have  been  washed,  Use  of     lm 

and  that  require  a  little  dressing,  cotton  or  silk  atin  to 

curtains,  etc.,  are  all  improved  by  a  slight  stiffen-  ^^fa^1" 

ing  with  either  of  these  substances.  rics. 

Soak  one  fourth  of  an  ounce  of  gelatin  or  isin-  D.     ,. 

glass  in  half  a  pint  of  cold  water  for  one  hour,  for  using 

Pour  on  this  one  quart  of  boiling  water.     Stir  gelatin  or 

lSlUfiTl&SS 

until  all  the  gelatin  is  dissolved,  then  strain,  and 
it  is  ready  for  use.     The  articles  to  be  stiffened  should  be 
wrung  dry  and  dipped  in  the  prepared  gelatin,  then  wrung 
and  dried,  dampened  and  ironed,  the  same  as  if  boiled  starch 
had  been  used. 

Weak  tea  or  coffee  may  be  used  instead  of  the  boiling 
water,  if  a  slight  ecru  tint  is  desired. 

BOILED   STARCH 

The  amount  of  boiling  water  used  in  making  a  boiled  starch 
depends  upon  the  degree  of  stiffness  desired;  shirt-bosoms, 
cuffs,  and  collars  requiring  the  greatest  degree  of     Notes  on 
stiffness,  while  laces,  table-linen,  and  undercloth-   starch  and 
ing  require  the  least.  t^™ 

When  articles  must  be  very  stiff,  as  is  the  case      stiffiiess 
with  shirts  and  collars  and  cuffs,  a  combination  of     required. 
the  boiled  and  raw  starch  gives  the  best  results. 
The  following  preparations  will  be  a  guide  for  the  inexperi- 
enced laundress: 

No.  1. 

1  tablespoonf  ul  of  starch.  Very  stiff. 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water. 
1  gill  of  boiling  water. 


114  HOME    ECONOMICS 

This  is  to  be  used  for  cuffs,  collars,  and  shirt-bosoms  that 
are  to  be  made  very  stiff. 

No.  2— the  same  rule  as  No.  1,  using  half  a  pint  of  boiling 

water.     This  is  for  shirt-bosoms,  cuffs,  and  collars  when  they 

are  to  be  wet  afterward  with  raw  starch.    Coarse 

ly  stiff6"    lace  curtains,  collars  and  cuffs  of  shirt-waists,  etc., 

require  starch  of  about  this  strength. 
No.  3— the  same  as  No.  1,  except  that  three  gills  of  boil- 
ing water  are  used.     This  will  be  about  right  for  white  skirts 
and  other  articles  that  should  be  fairly  stiff. 

No.  4— the  same  as  No.  1,  using  one  pint  of  boiling  water. 
This  is  suitable  for  skirts,  dresses,  etc. 

No.  5. 

M    ,  1  tablespoonful  of  starch, 

suggestion        2  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water. 
of  starch.         2  quarts  of  boiling  water. 

This  starch  is  suitable  for  table-linen  and  laces  that  should 

not  have  more  than  a  suggestion  of  starch. 

Starched  articles  may  be  ironed  more  easily,  and  they  take 

a  better  gloss,  if  an  oily  or  waxy  substance  is  dissolved  in  the 
H     .       starch.     A  bit  of  wax  or  sperm  candle,  a  bit  of 

secure  the    lard  or  mutton  suet,  will  answer  the  purpose.    A 

greatest     little  borax  added  to  the  starch  gives  a  finer  gloss 

ironing      to  the  ironed  article,  and  enables  it  to  hold  its 

starched     stiffness  in  a  damp  atmosphere,  such  as  that  at 
articles.       ,,  . 

the  sea-shore. 

The  starch  must  always  be  boiled  until  it  is  clear.  The 
water  and  every  utensil  used  in  making  it  must  be  absolutely 
clean. 

To  make  the  starch,  have  the  water  boiling.    Mix  the  dry 

starch  with  cold  water.    Gradually  pour  the  boil- 

ofmaMng    m?  water  on  tnis  mixture,  stirring  all  the  time. 

starch.       Stir  over  the  fire  until  the  starch  looks  clear.    It 


THE  LAUNDRY  115 

will  take  about  ten  minutes'  cooking  for  this.  To  the  rule 
given,  add  a  piece  of  candle  or  lard  about  the  size  of  a  white 
bean,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  borax.  Strain  the 
starch  through  a  piece  of  cheese-cloth.  If  the  starch  has 
been  stirred  continually  during  the  cooking,  and  is  used  at 
once,  it  will  not  require  straining. 

If  a  suggestion  of  bluing  is  liked,  add  a  little       Bluing 
to  the  cooking  starch.     Both  turpentine  and  bo-       s  arc  ' 
rax  give  whiteness  and  gloss  to  starched  linen,  but  they  must 
be  used  with  care,  else  they  will  injure  the  fabric. 

RAW   STARCH 

1  tablespoonful  of  starch. 
J  pint  of  cold  water. 
J  teaspoonful  of  borax. 
A  few  drops  of  turpentine. 

This  rule  is  for  raw  starch,  to  be  used  on  linen  that  is  re- 
quired quite  stiff.     Twice  as  much  water  must  be  used  for 
linen  that  is  to  be  made  moderately  stiff.    Mix  the    F   t  t 
starch  and  other  ingredients  thoroughly,  and  strain    member  in 
through  cheese-cloth.  making 

This  starch  begins  to  settle  the  moment  it  is 
at  rest;  therefore  it  must  be  thoroughly  stirred  when  used. 

The  pieces  to  be  starched  must  be  dry.  Dip  them  into  the 
starch,  and  rub  them  as  if  they  were  being  washed.  Squeeze 
them  dry,  and  spread  them  smoothly  on  a  clean  sheet.  One 
article  must  not  be  placed  upon  another.  Fold  the  sheet  over 
them,  and  roll  tightly.  If  the  pieces  are  large,  the  folded 
sheet  may  be  run  through  the  wringer;  but  for  small  articles 
this  is  not  necessary.  The  starched  articles  should  lie  for 
half  an  hour  or  an  hour. 

When  ironing  these  pieces,  have  a  thin  piece  of  cloth  to 
spread  over  the  portion  being  ironed.     The  iron  must  be  hot. 


116 


HOME  ECONOMICS 


Irons  most 
be  hot 

when  iron- 
ing raw- 
starched 
garments. 


Impor- 
tance of 
articles 
being 
thoroughly 
damp  for 
ironing. 


Go  over  the  article,  with  the  cloth  between  it  and  the  iron, 
until  it  is  about  half  dry;  then  take  off  the  cloth,  and  iron 
until  the  piece  is  perfectly  dry.  Use  a  good  deal  of  pressure. 
It  is  important  that  the  iron  should  be  hot  when 
it  is  first  used  on  articles  that  have  been  raw- 
starched,  because  it  is  only  by  this  means  that  the 
starch  becomes  cooked  and  gummy. 

It  is  equally  important  that  there  should  be 
enough  moisture  in  the  fabric  to  combine  with 
the  starch.  If  a  spot  gets  dry,  it  will  not  be  either 
smooth  or  stiff.  For  this  reason  it  is  a  good  plan 
to  have  the  portions  that  are  not  being  ironed 
covered  with  a  wet  cloth.  If  a  spot  gets  too  dry, 
wring  a  clean  cloth  out  of  cold  water,  and  dampen 
the  place  with  it. 
It  takes  but  little  time  to  prepare  raw  starch,  and  the  work 
of  starching  the  articles  is  slight;  but  it  requires  the  great- 
est care  to  iron  a  large  piece  so  that  it  may  be  smooth  and 
of  equal  stiffness  in  every  part.  The  cloth  must  be  wet,  the 
iron  hot  at  first,  and  the  ironing  must  be  continued  until 
every  thread  is  dry. 

In  using  boiled  starch,  the  articles  should  be  starched 
while  wet.  If  the  article  is  to  be  made  very  stiff,  the  starch 
must  be  used  as  hot  as  possible,  and  be  rubbed  and 
clapped  into  the  linen.  Great  care  must  be  taken 
to  get  the  starch  distributed  evenly  through  the 
threads  of  the  fabric,  and  to  remove  it  as  much  as 
possible  from  the  surface.  It  is  a  good  plan,  there- 
fore, after  the  starch  has  been  rubbed  and  clapped 
in,  to  draw  the  cuffs,  collars,  and  shirt-bosoms 
through  the  fingers,  thus  removing  the  superfluous  starch. 
Each  plait  of  the  shirt-bosom  must  be  drawn  between  the 
forefinger  and  thumb. 

Before  beginning  to  starch,  the  hands  must  be  washed 
thoroughly  with  soap  and  warm  water. 


How  boiled 

starch  is 

used.   Care 

must  be 
taken  that 
it  is  evenly 
distrib- 
uted. 


THE  LAUNDRY  117 

All  articles  starched  with  the  boiled  starch  must  be  dried 

thoroughly,  and  then  made  very  damp,  and  rolled  whenus- 

tightly  in  a  clean,  dry  cloth.     They  should  lie  in  iag  boiled 

the  cloth  for  two  or  more  hours  before  being  garment 

ironed.  then 

Starched  articles  must  not  be  hung  where  they  a^a^ou1^ 

will  freeze.  a  dry  cloth. 

HANGING   CLOTHES   OUT  TO   DRY 

The  oxygen  of  the  air,  and  the  sun,  are  great  aids  in  whit- 
ening and  sweetening  clothes,  and,  when  possible,  every 
article  should  be  dried  in  the  open  air. 

The  lines  must  be  fastened  securely;  wipe  them  with  a 
clean,  damp  cloth  before  the  clothes  are  hung  upon  them. 
Be  sure  that  the  clothes-pins  are  clean  and  whole.    Careofline 
Clothes-pins  that  have  lain  on  the  ground  in  rain     '   and 
and  snow  are  not  fit  to  use;  the  best  way  to  dis-      dothes- 
pose  of  these  is  to  put  them  in  the  fire.     When 
the  clothes  are  taken  in,  the  pins  should  be  put  in  a  bag  or 
basket  kept  for  this  purpose.    When  it  is  possible,  the  line 
should  be  taken  down.     A  line  that  is  exposed  to  the  ele- 
ments rots  slowly,  and  soils  the  clothing  that  is  hung  upon 
it.     Every  piece  must  be  turned  wrong  side  out  before  being 
put  on  the  lines. 

Group  all  articles  of  the  same  kind  together  on  the  line, 
if  possible.     Do  not  hang  the  pieces  by  the  corners,  as  the 
strain  tears  them  and  gets  them  out  of  shape. 
Fasten  garments  by  the  bands,  when  possible.    cJ^^fn 
They  are  less  liable  to  tear  when  hung  this  way,      the  line. 
as  the  heavier  parts  do  not  hang  down. 

White  clothing  should  be  hung  in  the  sun,  and  colored 
clothing  in  the  shade.  Do  not  hang  starched  articles  where 
they  will  be  exposed  to  a  strong  wind,  as  the  wind  drives 
the  starch  out  of  the  fabric. 


118  HOME  ECONOMICS 


FOLDING   CLOTHES   FOR   IRONING 

When  clothing  is  folded  properly,  the  ironing  is  half  ac- 
complished.    The  pieces  should  be  folded  as  quickly  as 
p  possible  after  they  are  taken  from  the  line.    Have 

tionof  the  laundry  or  kitchen  clean;  spread  a  clean 
^ir?3  f°r  ironmg-cl°th  on  the  table;  place  a  bowl  of  clean, 
warm  water  within  reach,  and  beside  it  a  small 
brush,  something  like  a  scrubbing-brush,  but  about  one 
fourth  as  large.  Spread  one  article  at  a  time  on  the  table, 
dip  the  brush  lightly  in  the  warm  water,  and  sprinkle  the 
piece  with  it,  getting  a  fine  spray  on  all  parts.  Continue 
this  until  all  the  plain  clothes  are  dampened.  Be  careful  to 
keep  articles  of  the  same  kind  together.  Line  the  clothes- 
basket  with  a  piece  of  clean  cotton  kept  for  this  purpose. 

Clear  one  end  of  the  table  for  the  folding,  and  begin  with 
the  smaller  pieces.  Plain  articles,  like  napkins,  towels, 
handkerchiefs,  pillow-cases,  etc.,  may  be  folded  together. 

Beginning  with  the  napkins,  lay  a  piece  perfectly  flat  on 

the  table,  draw  the  edges  straight,  and  pass  the  hand  over 

the  napkin,  smoothing  out  the  wrinkles;  place  an- 

foidi°ng°     other  napkin  on  this,  drawing  it  out  in  the  same 

manner.     Continue  this  until  all  the  napkins  are 

in  the  pile;  then  roll  firmly,  and  wrap  a  towel  around  them. 

The  handkerchiefs  and  pillow-cases  should  be  done  in  the 

same  manner. 

The  towels  are  to  be  folded  in  the  middle,  with  the  edges 

drawn  straight  and  the  fold  in  the  middle  laid  perfectly  even. 

Place  one  towel  upon  another,  as  in  the  case  of 

for  folding    tne  napkins,  and  roll.     Sheets  and  table-cloths 

sheets,      must  be  folded   in  the  middle,  and  the   sides 

cloths,eetc.    anc*  corners  matched  with  great  care;  the  edges 

and  the  middle  folds  must  be  firmly  drawn.    Two 

persons  can  do  this  better  than  one.    All  the  folding  must 


THE  LAUNDRY  119 

be  done  with  care  and  exactness.  Starched  articles  should 
be  protected  from  the  air.  It  is  well  to  keep  pieces  of  cotton 
cloth  for  this  purpose  and  for  wrapping,  up  small  pieces  like 
napkins  and  handkerchiefs. 

Sheets,  pillow-cases,  towels,  and  underclothing     Some  ar- 
should  be  dampened  only  slightly.     Table-linen    ti?1eesKe^si 
should  be  made  quite  damp,  and   all   starched    and  others 
pieces  should  be  made  very  damp.  iSSm 

Clothes  may  be  ironed  much  more  easily  when       damp. ' 
they  have  been  dampened  and  folded  several  hours. 
This  is  possible  if  the  clothes  are  folded  the  same  day  on 
which  they  are  washed,  and  ironed  on  the  following  day. 


PREPARING   FOR    IRONING 

For  good  work  it  is  absolutely  necessary  that  the  table  and 
ironing-board  are  firm  and  unwarped,  and  that  their  covering 
is  soft  and  smooth. 

The  table  and  board  should  each  have  a  first  cover  of 
thick  woolen  or  cotton  material;  an  old  blanket  is  excellent 
for  this  purpose,  and  over  it  there  should  be  a  clean  white 
cotton  cover.  These  coverings  may  be  tacked  permanently 
on  the  board,  but  they  must  be  removed  from  the  table  as  soon 
as  the  ironing  is  finished. 

Spread  the  woolen  cover  in  place,  and  tack  it,  using  the 
smallest-sized  tacks,  under  the  edges  of  the  board  or  table, 
drawing  it  tightly  so  that  there  shall  not  be  the  suggestion 
of  a  wrinkle.  Now  put  on  the  white  cotton  cover.  Tack 
this  in  the  same  way,  taking  care  to  keep  it  perfectly  smooth. 

There  must  be  a  good  fire  for  the  ironing;  it 
must  not  burn  too  rapidly,  and  it  must  never  be     essential1.6 
allowed  to  reach  a  white  heat. 

See  that  the  irons  are  scrupulously  clean  and  smooth,  and 
put  them  to  heat. 

Lay  several  thicknesses  of  newspaper  or  brown  paper  on 


120  HOME  ECONOMICS 

the  corner  of  the  ironing-table.     At  the  right  hand,  and  on 

the  paper,  place  the  stand  for  the  irons.     Just  beyond  this 

have  a  soft  old  cloth  on  which  to  wipe  the  irons. 

menu*"         See  that  there  is  a  piece  of  beeswax  tied  in  a 

ironing      piece  of  cloth,  ready  for  use.     Close  at  hand,  but 

ances"       not  on  tne  taD^  Place  a  PaPer  on  which  is  about 

half  a  cupful  of  salt.    Whenever  the  iron  seems 

a  little  rough,  rub  it  on  the  salt,  wipe  it,  and  then  go  over 

it  lightly  with  the  wax,  and  wipe  again.     Be  very  careful  to 

have  every  part  of  the  irons*  top  and  bottom,  perfectly  clean. 

The  irons  become  smoother  and  the  heat  grows  more  even 

as  the  ironing  goes  on;  therefore  it  is  better  to  begin  by 

What  to  do    *ronmg  some  °f  tne  coarser  towels  until  the  irons 

till  the      get  in  fair  condition;  then  iron  sheets,  pillow- 

iro^tare     cases,  and  table-cloths. 

Every  time  the  fire  is  replenished  it  takes  a 
short  time  to  burn  up  to  a  bright  heat.  Handkerchiefs 
should  be  ironed  in  this  interval. 

As  soon  as  the  irons  get  very  hot,  begin  on  the  starched 
articles.  Keep  a  few  coarse  towels  at  hand  to  iron  if  the 
heat  of  the  iron  needs  to  be  tempered  before  it  is  applied 
to  the  starched  pieces.  Finish  all  the  starched  articles,  and 
then  go  back  to  the  plain  clothing.  The  fire  may  have  to  be 
How  to  replenished  several  times,  but  it  will  save  time, 
care  for  strength,  and  fuel  if  one  is  careful  not  to  let  it 
fire  when     ^UYn  up  to  a  white  heat,  and  not  to  choke  the 

ironing. 

draft  by  packing  the  coal  in  the  stove.  Put 
coal  on  the  fire  as  lightly  as  possible.  Do  not  shake  the 
fire  down  if  you  can  help  it,  for  that  packs  the  coal  and 
cinders  together,  so  that  there  is  not  enough  space  left  for 
the  oxygen  to  pass  freely  between  the  coals.  It  is  as  diffi- 
cult for  a  fire  to  burn  without  oxygen  as  it  is  for  us  to 
breathe  without  it. 

It  is  much   easier  to  give   explicit   directions  for  the 
methods  of  washing  and  starching  than  it  is  to  give  them 


THE  LAUNDRY  121 

for  ironing.  In  this  part  of  the  laundry  work  practice  is 
necessary.  It  is  hoped  that  with  the  detailed  directions 
given  for  the  washing,  starching,  and  folding,  and  the  sug- 
gestions in  regard  to  ironing,  the  beginner  may  find  that, 
with  practice,  she  can  attain  the  best  results. 

Every  piece  should  be  ironed  until  it  is  dry.  The  greater 
the  pressure  of  the  iron,  the  smoother  and  more  glossy  the 
surface  of  the  material  will  be. 

The  iron  should  pass  smoothly  and  regularly  over  the 
cloth,  the  movement  being  up  and  down  in  the  direction  of 
the  selvage,  with  the  grain  of  the  cloth. 

The  pressure  should  be  light  until  the  cloth  has        jjjjjj  ° 
been  made  smooth ;  then  press  very  hard.   The  iron 
should  not  be  half  lifted,  or  used  in  a  jerky  manner.    It  must 
rest  on  the  cloth,  and  be  moved  rather  slowly  at  first,  to  avoid 
making  little  creases.     After  the  cloth  is  smooth  the  move- 
ment may  be  more  rapid. 

Table-linen  should  be  ironed  in  a  single  thickness  until  it 
is  perfectly  dry;  then  it  may  be  folded  and  pressed.  There 
should  be  as  few  folds  as  possible  in  a  table-cloth.    How .  w 

Napkins  and  handkerchiefs  should  be  folded  in       linen 
such  a  manner  that  the  initials  or  other  markings     8^ould  *• 
come  on  the  outside. 

The  borders  of  napkins  and  handkerchiefs  should  be 
ironed  first;  care  must  be  taken  to  pull  them  even,  so  that 
they  shall  fold  perfectly  square. 

Table-linen  that  is  fine  and  heavy  will  not  require  starch, 
but  the  linen  that  lacks  body  is  improved  by  the  use  of  a 
very  little  starch.  When 

Each  article  should  be  hung  on  the  frame  to  air    table-linen 
as  soon  as  it  is  ironed.    Table-cloths,  napkins,  and      requires 
handkerchiefs  are  the  exceptions  to  this  rule. 
They  should  remain  folded,  and  be  laid  on  some  flat  surface, 
like  a  board,  until  the  ironing  is  finished,  when  they  will  be 
aired  sufficiently  to  be  put  away. 


122  HOME  ECONOMICS 


FOLDING  THE  CLOTHES  AFTER  IRONING 

No  matter  how  well  the  clothing  has  been  ironed,  if  it  is 
carelessly  folded  when  being  taken  from  the  clothes-horse  it 
.       will  never  be  satisfactory. 

Sliding        See  tnat  a  taDle  is  clear  and  clean.     Draw  the 
clothes      clothes-horse  near  it,  and  lift  off  one  piece  at  a 

Ironing?  time-  Fo^  eacn  Piece  carefully  in  the  creases 
made  by  the  iron,  and  press  smoothly  with  the 
hands.  Be  sure  that  each  piece  lies  smoothly  in  the  basket 
in  which  it  is  to  be  taken  up-stairs.  The  table-linen  should 
be  kept  in  a  broad  drawer  or  box,  so  that  the  table-cloths 
need  not  be  folded  in  too  many  creases. 

Fasten  night-dresses  and  night-shirts  by  the  button  at  the 
neck,  as  it  will  then  be  easy  to  fold  them  neatly. 

A   FEW  WORDS   ABOUT   THE  CLOTHES-WRINGER 

When  the  washing  is  finished,  loosen  the  screws  that 
tighten  the  rubber  cylinders.  Wipe  the  cogs  and  every  part 
of  the  machine  dry. 

If  the  wringer  works  hard,  pour  a  little  kerosene  on  the 
cogs,  and  work  them  for  a  few  seconds;  then  wipe  them,  and 
put  a  few  drops  of  sewing-machine  oil  on  them,  and  work  for 
a  minute. 

On  washing  day  wipe  the  machine  carefully  to  remove  any 
particles  of  superfluous  oil;  tighten  the  cylinders. 

THE  LAUNDRY 

The  essential  furnishings  of  a  laundry  are:  three  or  four 

good   tubs,   a   boiler,  stationary  or  portable,  wash-board, 

The  neces-    clothes-wringer,  clothes-stick,  ironing-board,  table, 

Stnre  fofa"    Pail>  set  of  flat-irons,  porcelain-lined  saucepan  and 

laundry,     wooden  spoon  for  starch-making,  small  bowl,  large 


THE  LAUNDRY  123 

dipper  for  taking  water  from  boiler,  etc.,  ironing-blanket  and 
-sheet,  stand  for  irons,  holders  for  irons,  floor-cloth  and  cloths 
for  washing  tubs,  boilers,  etc.,  clothes-basket,  clothes-line, 
clothes-pins  and  a  bag  or  basket  for  holding  them,  and,  finally, 
a  stove  or  some  other  means  of  heating  irons. 

If  the  laundry,  and  every  article  in  it,  are  not  kept  scrupu- 
lously clean,  the  work  done  in  it  cannot  be  satisfactory. 

Before  the  washing  is  begun,  the  room  should      M     . 
be  made  perfectly  clean.  kept  abso- 

Af  ter  the  washing  is  finished,  every  article  used       ^tely 
in  the  work  should  be  washed,  and  then  thoroughly       Every- 
rinsed  in  clear  water.     The  boiler  must  be  wiped      thing  in 
dry.    Wash  and  wipe  the  floor.    Let  cold  water  run    fore  wash_ 
freely  into  the  tubs,  that  every  trace  of  suds  may       ing  is 
be  removed  from  tubs  and  pipes ;  then  wipe  the  tubs     .menTed. 
dry.     Wash,  rinse,  and  dry  the  cleaning-cloths. 

After  the  ironing  is  finished,  and  the  clothes  have  been 
removed,  the  room  should  be  swept  and  dusted,  blankets, 
sheets,  etc.,  folded,  and  everything  put  in  order. 

If  the  suds  from  the  washing  are  not  thoroughly    Tubs,  pails, 
rinsed  from  tubs,  pails,  wringer,  etc.,  a  disagree-     eJJ 'tJjJJ* 
able  odor  will  fill  the  laundry  and  finally  penetrate      oughly 
to  the  other  parts  of  the  house.  rinBed. 

HOW    TO   DISSOLVE  SOAP 

Shave  the  soap,  and  put  it  in  a  stew-pan  with  water. 
Place  this  on  the  fire,  and  let  it  heat  slowly  until  the  soap  is 
dissolved,  which  will  take  about  an  hour. 

Use  three  quarts  of  water  for  one  pound  of  soap. 

HOW   TO   CLEAN   IRONS 

The  longer  flat-irons  are  in  use,  the  smoother  and  better 
they  become  and  the  more  easily  they  are  kept  clean. 


124  HOME   ECONOMICS 

All  irons  are  better  for  being  greased,  once  in  a  while, 
with  warm  mutton  tallow  or  sweet-oil.  Let  them  stand  a 
few  days  after  the  grease  has  been  applied,  wash  them  in  a 
strong  soap-suds,  then  rinse  them  in  hot  soda-water,  and 
wipe  dry.  If  the  irons  get  rusted,  cover  the  rusted  part 
with  sweet-oil  and  powdered  quicklime,  and  let  them  stand 
several  days.  Wash  this  off  with  water,  and  then  with 
strong  soda-water. 

Fine  emery-paper  will  often  remove  rust  and  roughness 
from  irons,  and  rottenstone  and  sweet-oil  will  clean  them. 
Mix  powdered  rottenstone  with  the  oil,  and  spread 
move  rust    on  a  Doarci;  work  the  iron  back  and  forth  on  this 
until  bright  and  smooth;  wash  in  strong,  hot  soap- 
suds, or  in  a  hot  solution  of  sal-soda. 

To  insure  the  perfect  cleanliness  of  irons,  they  should  be 
washed  in  soap  and  water  frequently.  Irons  should  always 
be  kept  in  a  clean,  dry  place. 

The  laundress  is  often  very  careless  of  her  health.     She 
will  leave  the  wash-tub,  where  she  has  become  heated,  and 
where  the  steam  from  the  hot  water  has  opened 
tanoeof      *ne  pores  of  her  arms  and  hands,  and  go,  bare- 
laundress     headed  and  bare-armed,  out  into  the  chill  win- 
hwheftlth.    trv  air  to  hang  up  the  clothes.     She  should  re- 
member that  her  health  is  her  capital,  and  that 
without  it  she  will  become  a  burden  to  herself  and  others. 
If  she  has  perfect  health  and  a  good  constitution,  she  ought 
to  thank  God  for  one  of  the  greatest  blessings  that  can  be 
given  to  mankind,  and  guard  it  gratefully  and  intelligently. 
How  to  When  the  weather  is  cold  or  raw,  wipe  the  hands 

dress       and  arms  dry,  pull  the  sleeves  down,  have  a  jacket 
and^uick-    or  snaw*  to  Protect  the  shoulders  and  lungs,  and 
ly  when      put  a  covering  of  some  kind  on  the  head.     This 
^Ttt?      snou^  a^  De  d°ne  before  venturing  outdoors.    In 
intensely  cold  weather  wear  clean  white  mittens. 
If  the  ground  is  damp,  or  covered  with  snow,  put  on  rubbers. 


THE  LAUNDRY  125 

Carefulness  in  these  little  details  will  prevent  many  colds 
and  much  impaired  health. 

A  rubber  apron  will  protect  the  clothing  from  the  wet 
during  the  washing. 

Many  girls  feel  that  they  cannot  afford  these  things;  but 
one  week's  wages  would  buy  everything  but,  perhaps,  the 
sack  or  shawl,  and  one  always  has  something  of  Money  ex- 
that  kind  on  hand  which  is  practically  useless  for  pended  in 
any  other  purpose.  Even  if  it  is  necessary  to  buy  health  is 
the  wrap,  it  would  be  money  well  invested,  and  it  well  in- 
will  be  the  means  of  saving  much  suffering.  vested. 

The  laundress  should  be  conscientious  in  her  work,  doing 
it  honestly.  The  use  of  destructive  chemicals  should  be 
avoided.  No  one  has  a  right  to  use  substances  that  will 
destroy  the  fabric.  She  should  do  by  her  employers  as  she 
would  like  them  to  do  by  her. 


CHAPTER  VI 

CARE  OF  LIGHTING  APPLIANCES 

Management  of  gas.    Oil-lamps.    Some  facts  in  regard  to  petroleum. 

MANAGEMENT   OF  GAS 

Gas  and  electricity  are  the  two  most  convenient  forms  of 
Gas  and      lighting  houses. 

electricity.  When  gas  is  burned,  the  pipes  should  be  care- 
Care  of  gas-  fuHy  examined,  from  time  to  time,  to  make  sure 
burners  that  there  are  no  leaks.  The  burners  should  be 
and  keys.  c]eaned  frequently,  or  renewed  when  they  do  not 
work  well.  The  keys  should  stand  square  when  the  gas  is 
turned  off.  A  loose  key  that  does  not  indicate  to  a  cer- 
tainty when  the  gas  is  turned  on  or  off  should  not  be  toler- 
ated for  one  day. 

When  there  is  a  whistling  sound  from  the  burning  gas, 
it  indicates  that  unconsumed  gas  is  escaping  through  the 
burner;  the  key  should  be  turned  until  the  sound  ceases. 

If  rubber  tubing  is  used  on  a  drop-light,  always  lower  the 

light  by  turning  off  the  gas  at  the  pipe  that  supplies  the 

tubing.     If  the  light  is  turned  off  at  the  lamp, 

berthing,    the  extra  pressure  on  the  tubing  causes  some  of 

the  gas  to  escape.     The  rubber  tubing  should  be 

frequently  removed  from  the  lamp  and  pipe,  and  hung  in  the 

126 


CARE  OF  LIGHTING  APPLIANCES  127 

open  air.     Odor  of  escaping  gas  should  be  traced  promptly 
to  its  source,  and  the  leak  should  be  repaired  instantly. 

Should  there  be  a  strong  odor  of  gas  in  any  room  in  the 
house,  or  in  the  cellar,  do  not  carry  a  light  while  investi- 
gating it.  Open  the  doors  and  windows  first,  that  L  . 
the  gas  may  be  carried  out  by  a  current  of  air. 
After  a  short  time  it  will  be  safe  to  use  a  light,  if  that  be 
necessary.  If  there  is  a  suspicion  of  a  large  leak,  do  not 
test  it  with  a  lighted  match;  the  odor  should  be  a  guide. 

Acquaint  yourself  with  the  location  of  the  stopcock  that 
turns  the  supply  of  gas  off  from  the  house,  so  that  in  case 
of  accident  the  gas  may  be  cut  off  readily.    Learn 
to  read  the  meter.    Some  gas  companies  give  clear    and'meters. 
directions  for  this  on  the  back  of  their  bills. 

When  round-top  burners  are  used,  see  that  the  flame  does 
not  spread  so  as  to  reach  the  globe.    The  flat-top 
burners  are  to  be  preferred,  because  they  prevent    2SS£5b 
this  spreading  of  the  flame.  burners. 

The  globes  should  be  dusted  when  the  room  is 
being  dusted,  and  they  must  be  washed  as  soon      .c*re  of , 
as  they  become  dim  or  soiled.     In  dusting  gas      fixtures, 
fixtures,  be  careful  not  to  wrench  or  twist  them. 
Never  use  a  polish  on  the  ordinary  fixtures.     If  they  are  in 
a  bad  condition,  have  them  removed  and  taken  to  the  bur- 
nisher.    This  is,  in  the  end,  the  cheapest  thing  to  do. 

OIL-LAMPS 

The  best  lamps  and  the  best  oil  are  invariably  the  safest 
and  cheapest.     The  lamps  least  trying  to  the  eyes  are  those 
known  as  the  student  lamps.     Indeed,  there  is  no 
other  artificial  light,  as  far  as  I  know,  that  is  as       lamps, 
satisfactory  to  work  by.    Every  household  should 
have  at  least  one  of  these  lamps.    They  range  in  price  from 
two  dollars  and  seventy  cents  to  fifteen  dollars  or  more. 
When  the  price  goes  much  over  six  or  eight  dollars,  it  is 


128  HOME  ECONOMICS 

owing  to  the  metal  and  ornamentation,  and  not  because  of 
any  improvement  in  the  quality  of  the  light.  A  student 
lamp  should  be  chosen,  like  a  watch,  first  of  all  for  its  work- 
ing qualities. 

The  first  consideration,  in  purchasing  a  lamp  of 
tion  ia  pu£    any  description,  is  that  it  must  be  safe,  and  that  the 
chasing      burner  is  large  enough  to  carry  a  good-sized  wick, 
lamps.  rp0  ^jflj  foe  requirements  of  safety,  a  lamp 

Eequire-     should  stand  on  a  firm,  broad  base,  the  oil  reser- 
ments  ne-    voir  should  have  no  other  opening  than  that  into 
^safety**    wnicn  the  burner  is  screwed,  and  each  burner 
should  have  an  extinguisher. 
The  wicks  should  be  soft  and  of  rather  a  loose  mesh. 
They  should  fill  the  burner,  and  yet  not  pack  it.     A  wick 
Wicks       ^at  ^oes  not  ^  ^e  burner  will  admit  air  into  the 
reservoir,  which,  in  case  any  gas  has  collected 
there,  may  cause  an  explosion.    This  matter  of  the  wick  is  a 
most  important  one,  and  should  be  better  understood  by  the 
dealers  in  lamps  and  lamp  supplies.    When  a  salesman  fits 
a  lamp  with  a  wick  that  is  too  small,  and  an  explosion  fol- 
lows, why  should  he  not  be  held  equally  guilty  with  the  drug 
clerk  who  carelessly  puts  up  a  poison  instead  of  the  correct 
prescription?    Many  of  the  lamp  explosions  which  are  occur- 
ring constantly  might  be  traced  to  this  matter  of  too  small 
a  wick.     It  is  a  subject  that  concerns  every  housekeeper, 
and  an  effort  should  be  made  to  have  the  lamps  safe  in  this 
respect  at  least. 

The  essentials  of  a  clear  light  are  clean  burners,  clean 

wicks,  and  clean  chimneys.     Dirty  burners  and  wicks  not 

only  make  a  clouded  light,  but  they  give  off,  also, 

of  andear     disagreeable  odors. 

light.  A  lamp  should  never  be  lighted  after  standing, 

partially  filled,  for  a  day  or  two.    The  empty  part 

of  the  reservoir  may  have  become  full  of  gas,  and  a  jar,  or 

a  current  of  cold  air,  may  cause  an  explosion. 


CARE  OF   LIGHTING  APPLIANCES  120 

In  lighting  a  lamp,  turn  down  the  wick,  and  put  on  the 
chimney  and  shade,  then  gradually  turn  the  wick  up.     This 
will  give  all  parts  of  the  glass  time  to  heat  slowly 
and  to  expand  equally.     Extinguish  a  lamp  by      light  a 
turning  the  wick  fairly  well  down  and  then  pull-     lamp  and 
ing  the  extinguisher.    If  there  is  no  extinguisher,     ^Ji^ " 
blow  across  the  top  of  the  chimney,  never  down 
into  it,  as  that  might  drive  the  flame  into  the  reservoir, 
where  it  is  always  possible  that  gas  may  have  collected. 

When  carrying  a  lamp  from  one  place  to  another,  turn 
the  wick  rather  low,  as  the  movement  produces  a  current  of 
air,  causing  the  flame  to  flare  up  and  smoke.     In 
carrying  a  student  lamp,  lighted  or  unlighted,  be      rySg"" 
careful  not  to  incline  it  toward  the  burner,  as  that    lamp  from 
will  cause  the  oil  to  overflow— a  dangerous  thing      Ppiace!° 
when  the  lamp  is  lighted,  and  not  a  desirable  one 
at  any  time.     Be  sure,  too,  that  this  lamp  stands  perfectly 
level  on  the  table. 

The  daily  care  of  a  lamp  consists  of  filling  it  with  oil, 
trimming  the  wick,  wiping  the  burner  and  the  out-    -~ 
side  of  the  lamp,  and  cleaning  the  shade  and  chim- 
ney.    This  work  should  be  done  in  the  morning  while  there 
is  a  good  light. 

For  this  work  have  a  tray,  a  pair  of  sharp  scis-     Necessary 
sors,  cloth  for  wiping  the  lamp,  two  cloths,  one     mentsfor 
for  the  chimneys  and  one  for  the  shades,  and  a     cleaning 
small  brush  for  the  interior  of  the  chimneys.    One        amps* 
may  sometimes  find  a  similar  brush,  but  very  small,  for  wash- 
ing the  interior  of  the  burners. 

Cover  the  tray  with  paper.     Place  the  reservoirs  on  this, 
removing  the  curved  top  from  the  burner.     Turn  the  wick 
high  enough  to  expose  all  the  charred  part.   With 
the  sharp  scissors  cut  this  off,  being  careful  to  cut     cleaning, 
straight  across  the  wick.     If  there  is  the  slightest 
unevenness,  remove  it.     Now  turn  the  wick  well  down,  and 


130  HOME  ECONOMICS 

with  a  soft  paper  wipe  the  top  of  the  burner  clean,  both  in- 
side and  outside.  When  all  the  lamps  are  in  order,  fill  them 
with  oil,  taking  care  to  have  the  oil  come  within  an  inch  of 
the  top  of  the  reservoir,  as  space  must  be  allowed  for  the 
expansion  of  the  oil,  and  for  the  fact  that  the  wicks  draw  it 
upward. 

Be  sure  that  the  tops  are  screwed  on  firmly.  See  that 
there  is  no  dirt  in  the  space  around  the  burner  which  admits 
the  air.  If  this  place  becomes  obstructed  the  lamp  will  be 
deprived  of  one  of  the  essential  elements  of  combustion, 
oxygen,  and  it  will  not  burn  brightly.  Wipe  the  lamps 
carefully,  and  put  all  the  parts  together. 

Once  in  every  two  or  three  weeks  wash  the  burners  in 
strong  soap-suds  or  in  soda-water.  Many  persons  boil  them 
in  soda-water,  but  with  the  treatment  here  out- 
burners.  lme(*  this  is  not  necessary,  as  the  burners,  if  so 
cared  for,  will  never  get  clogged  or  have  a  strong 
odor.  The  wiping  of  the  lamps  may  be  done  with  soft  pa- 
pers, which  can  then  be  burned,  using  the  soft  cloths  to  give 
the  final  polish. 

The  chimneys  may  be  cleaned  by  breathing  into  them  and 
rubbing  clean  with  soft  paper,  or  they  may  be  washed  with 
soap  and  water,  and  polished  dry  with  a  clean 
chimneys,  cloth.  Never  leave  a  drop  of  water  on  the  chim- 
ney. 

When  the  supply  of  oil  is  taken  from  sealed  cans,  cut  the 
seal  and  put  in  a  stopper  of  some  kind,  which  is,  of  course, 
removed  when  pouring  out  oil. 

A  few  bubbles  of  air  in  the  oil-tank  of  a  student  lamp  will 

often  prevent  a  free  flow  of  oil  through  the  narrow  pipe  that 

carries  the  oil  from  the  tank  to  the  burner,  causing 

Ain  artuf    the  lamp  to  give  a  dim  vellow  Kg*1*-    When  filling  a 

dent  lamp,    student  lamp  bear  this  in  mind,  and  fill  the  tank  to 

the  top,  and  if  any  air-bubbles  appear  break  them. 

A  lamp  in  which  kerosene-oil  is  used  should  burn  with  a 


CARE   OF  LIGHTING  APPLIANCES  131 

clear,  white  light.     If  the  light  is  dim  and  yellow,  it  is  owing 
to  one  of  these  causes:  the  oil  is  poor;  the  wick  is  charred, 
or  the  burner  and  wick  are  dirty;  or  the  wick  is 
turned  too  low;  or  bubbles  of  air  impede  the  flow     ^Ta^d 
of  oil.  causes. 

The  wick  of  the  lamp  must  be  turned  high  enough 
to  produce  free  combustion.     If  it  is  turned  down      How,  *? 
low,  the  light  is  not  only  bad  for  the  eyes,  but  the       light, 
room  will  be  filled  with  a  vile  odor.    Should  it  be 
necessary  to  have  a  dim  light  in  the  room,  set  the  lamp  in 
an  adjoining  room,  or  shade  it  in  such  a  manner  that  the 
light  is  not  diffused.     On  no  account  lower  the  wick  below 
the  point  where  the  light  is  white  and  clear. 

When  lighting  a  lamp  it  must  be  remembered 
that  the  current  of  air  is  stronger  after  the  lamp    ^r£tinhen 
has  been  lighted  a  few  minutes ;  therefore  the  wick        lamp. 
should  not  be  turned  to  its  full  capacity  at  first. 

The  astral-oil  that  is  sold  in  sealed  cans  insures  a  safe 
and  good  light. 


SOME   FACTS    IN   REGARD   TO   PETROLEUM 

In  this  country  nearly  all  our  illuminating  oil  comes  from 
the  natural  mineral  oil,  termed  crude  petroleum.  The  qual- 
ity of  the  natural  product  varies  greatly,  but  the  process  of 
refining  should  give  a  safe  and  good  article,  no  matter  what 
the  condition  of  the  original  product  may  have  been. 

The  oil,  as  it  comes  from  the  wells,  ranges  in  color  from 
a  yellowish  white  to  almost  black,  and  from  a  liquid  nearly 
as  thin  as  water  to  a  thick,  ropy  mass.     The 
lighter  and  thinner  grades  are  those  from  which    ^^  natu- 
the  greater  part  of  the  burning  oils  are  made,     rai  state. 
These  oils  are  generally  sold  under  the  name  of 
kerosene.    There  are  other  products  of  petroleum,  however, 
which  are  used  in  the  arts  and  in  the  household.    An  under- 


132  HOME  ECONOMICS 

standing  of  what  these  are,  and  of  their  behavior  under  va- 
rious conditions,  will  enable  the  housekeeper  to  know  why 
certain  conditions  and  modes  of  treatment  are  safe,  while 
others  are  dangerous. 
Products  of       From  the  cru^e  Petroleum  we  get  gasolene, 

crude  pe-     naphtha,  kerosene,  paraffin,  vaseline,  etc. 

troleum.  rp^  crU(je  0{\  js  pUt  into  immense  stills,  which 
Purifying  are  heated  from  beneath,  and  immediately  gases 
petroleum.    beg-n  to  rige  and  pagg  QVer^  the  lightest  passing 

over  first.  In  this  process  of  purifying  the  oil  it  is  very  im- 
portant that  all  the  oil  that  would  vaporize  or  ignite  at  a 
temperature  below  110°  F.  should  be  removed.  If  benzin  is 
left  in  the  oil,  or  added  later,  the  chances  of  an  explosion 
are  increased. 

When  there  is  doubt  in  regard  to  the  safety  of  an  oil,  try 

it  by  filling  a  cup  about  a  quarter  full  of  cold  water.    Put  a 

thermometer  into  this,  and  add  boiling  water  until  the  mercury 

rises  to  110°  F.    Then  take  out  the  thermometer, 

T?  t6Stf     anc*  Pour  a  C0UPle  °f  spoonfuls  of  the  oil  into  the 

oil.  cup.  With  a  lighted  match  or  taper  try  to  ignite 
the  oil.  If  it  takes  fire  it  is  unsafe  and  should 
not  be  used  for  lamps  or  stoves. 

Oil  that  stands  this  test,  or  even  a  test  as  high  as  135°  F. 
if  left  in  a  lamp  partially  filled  for  a  day  or  two,  will  some- 
times vaporize,  filling  the  vacant  space  of  the  reservoir  with 
a  gas  that  will  explode  if  mixed  with  air  and  there  is  a  pos- 
sibility of  the  mixture  coming  in  contact  with  the  flame. 

Im  o  tant         ^  *s  ^or  *n*s  reason  ^na*  we  should  not  let  lamps 
points  in     stand  partially  full  of  oil  and  then  light  them; 
care  of      that  we  should  be  careful  that  the  wicks  fill  the 
burners,  so  that  there  may  be  no  room  for  a  pas- 
sage of  air;  and  that  we  should  never  blow  down  on  the  flame, 
thus  running  the  risk  of  driving  it  against  the  gas  that  may 
have  collected  near  the  burner. 


CHAPTER  VII 

FUEL  AND  FIRES 

Kinds  of  fuel.  Care  of  the  furnace  fire.  The  morning  work.  The  cold- 
air  box.  Heating-stoves.  Care  of  the  range.  Some  points  to  remember 
in  the  treatment  of  range  fires.    Grate  fires.    Don'ts.    To  remove  clinkers. 

The  fuel  that  is  used  for  cooking  and  heating  is  an  im- 
portant item  for  the  housekeeper.  This  is  one  of  the  house- 
hold supplies  that  should  be  bought  in  bulk  whenever 
possible.  The  best  time  to  lay  in  the  yearly  supply  is  in  the 
late  summer  or  early  autumn.  Certainly  the  arrangements 
as  to  price  and  time  of  delivery  should  be  made  in  the  sum- 
mer, when,  as  a  rule,  prices  are  lower  than  later  in  the 
season. 

If  one  lives  in  a  city,  and  the  coal  is  carried  to  the  bin 
through  a  hole  in  the  sidewalk,  the  care  of  putting  away 
the  coal  is  somewhat  less  than  when  one  must 
see  that  the  side  of  the  house,  lawn,  and  flower-      tun^of" 
beds  are  properly  protected.     In  any  case  there    cellar,  etc., 
is  the  inevitable  dust  and  work  in  the  cellar,  and    j£ ofcoaig 
once  a  year  is  often  enough  for  this  extra  work 
and  care  to  fall  upon  the  household.    When  the  coal  is  to 
be  put  into  the  bins  through  an  opening  in  the  side  of  the 
house,  this  part  of  the  building  should  be  protected  by  thick 
folds  of  carpet  or  burlaps  tacked  over  such  places  as  are 

133 


134  HOME   ECONOMICS 

likely  to  be  rubbed  by  the  men  in  putting  the  coal  into  the 
chute. 

Should  it  be  necessary  to  pass  over  the  lawn,  protect  it  by 
laying  down  boards  for  the  men  to  walk  over.  The  cellar 
windows  must  be  opened,  and  all  doors  opening 
Porf°wn  int0  the  coal-room  should  be  closed.  The  regis- 
ters throughout  the  house  should  be  closed  and 
covered  with  paper.  Coal-  and  wood-bins  must  be  perfectly 
clean.  All  the  boards  used  in  closing  up  the  bins  should  be 
ready  for  the  workmen. 

After  the  wood  and  coal  are  in,  take  the  carpets  from  the 
walls,  fold  them,  and  put  them  in  place;  take  up  the  boards, 
Clean-  of  from  the  lawn,  and  put  them,  with  the  carpets, 
ceUar  after  ready  for  use  the  next  time.  Sweep  the  cellar 
fuel  has  w^h  a  damp  broom.  Brush  the  coal-dust  from 
walls  and  articles  in  the  room,  sweeping  the  floor 
a  second  time.  Have  the  sidewalk  swept  clean,  and  the  chips 
and  bits  of  coal  removed  from  the  lawn.  See  that  the  open- 
ings used  by  the  workmen  are  all  properly  fastened.  Look 
after  the  windows  and  doors  in  the  cellar;  it  sometimes  hap- 
pens that  a  sneak-thief  thinks  this  is  a  good  chance  to  get 
into  the  house. 


KINDS   OF  FUEL 

The  cost  and  kind  of  fuel  used  depend  largely  upon  the 

section  of  the  country  in  which  one  lives.     In  New  England 

wood  and  anthracite  coal  are  the  principal  fuels. 

kinds*1?      ^as  anc*  Petr°leum  are  used  to  some  extent  for 
fuel.        heating  and  cooking,  and  the  soft  or  bituminous 

coal  is  sometimes  used  for  grates. 
We  speak  of  the  two  kinds  of  coal— anthracite  and 
bituminous.     These  two  coals  are  quite  different  in  appear- 
ance and  in  manner  of  combustion.     Pure  anthracite  has  a 
high  luster  and  burns  without  flame.    Bituminous  coal  is 


FUEL  AND  FIRES  135 

not  so  hard  or  lustrous,  and  burns  with  a  flame;  it  also 
throws  off  black  smoke,  and  for  this  reason  is  not  used  when 
the  anthracite  can  be  had  at  a  reasonable  price.  There  are 
grades  of  coal  between  the  anthracite  and  the  bituminous; 
for  example,  there  is  a  bituminous  coal  which  has  been  in 
the  transition  state  and  would  have  become  good  anthracite 
had  the  conditions  remained  favorable.  This  coal  looks  dull 
and  breaks  up  more  readily  than  the  pure  anthracite.  It 
should  not  cost  as  much  as  the  genuine  hard  coal. 

With  nearly  all  coal-seams  there  is  a  slaty  deposit.     It  is 
often  as  black  as  coal,  but  it  splits  in  thin  sheets, 
and  it  is  not  difficult  to  recognize  it  among  the     slatf  de- 
coals.    The  housekeeper  should  always  make  it  a        coal, 
point  to  examine  the  first  load  of  coal,  to  see  that 
it  has  the  right  appearance,  i.  e.,  that  jt  looks  brilliant  and 
is  not  mixed  with  this  slaty  substance^ 

There  are  two  kinds  of  anthracite  coal— the  white  ash  and 
the  red.  The  combustion  of  the  red  ash  is  more  perfect 
than  that  of  the  white  ash.  For  the  range  or  stoves  a  mix- 
ture of  the  two  is  excellent.  The  red  ash  generally  costs  a 
dollar  more  a  ton  than  the  white.  Anthracite  coal  comes  in 
a  variety  of  sizes— nut,  egg,  range,  grate,  furnace,  etc. 

In  selecting  coal,  the  size  of  the  grate  or  fire-box  must  be 
taken  into  consideration.  A  small  fire-box  will  require  a 
smaller  size  of  coal  than  would  a  large  one,  and  so  gizeofcoai 
it  is  with  the  grate.  If  one  uses  small  coal  in  a 
grate  the  bars  of  which  are  far  apart,  there  will  naturally 
be  a  great  deal  of  waste.  So,  really,  one  must  make  the  ac- 
quaintance of  furnace  and  range  before  ordering  the  supply 
of  coal. 

Wood,  in  the  ordinary  household,  is  used  more    ^ood'  ¥*" 
as  a  kindling  than  as  a  regular  fuel/    When  em-        etc.     ' 
ployed  as  a  kindling  there  should  be  a  mixture 
of  hard  and  soft  wood,  well  seasoned,  cut  short,  and  split 
rather  fine.    / 


/ 


136  HOME  ECONOMICS 

When  wood  is  used  as  a  fuel  in  a  stove  or  fireplace,  at 
least  three  fourths  of  the  supply  should  be  hard  wood.  For 
the  fireplace  the  pieces  should  be  large;  for  the  cooking- 
stove  there  should  be  a  mixture  of  fine  and  coarse  wood.  It 
is  always  better  to  have  the  wood  cut  too  short  than  the 
least  bit  too  long. 

It  is  very  important  that  wood  should  be  well  seasoned. 
Green  wood  throws  out  very  little  heat,  a  great  part  of  the 
heat  being  absorbed  by  the  moisture  in  the  wood. 

CARE   OF   THE   FURNACE   FIRE 

All  furnaces  are  constructed  on  certain  general  principles. 
In  every  furnace,  no  matter  what  particular  make  it  may  be, 
there  are  the  hot-air  pipes,  the  chimney-pipe,  the 
tiorTofftir-    hamper  for  chimney-pipe,  the  check,  the  drafts  in 
nace.       the  lower  doors,  the  dust-damper,  the  water-pan, 
the  fire-pot,  and  the  cold-air  box./  The  house- 
keeper should  acquaint  herself  with  them  all  at  the  start. 

The  shape  of  the  fire-pot  is  important.  /A  fire-pot  that  is 

deep,  but  small  at  the  top,  will  not  heat  a  house  as  well  as 

The  fire-     one  ^na^  *s  shallower  but  has  a  broader  top*  sur- 

pot.        face.  / 

Cleaning  of       Every  one  of  the  flues  and  pipes  of  the  furnace 

flues  and     must  be  cleaned  once  a  year;  the  spring  is  the  best 

pipes'       time  for  this. 

In  the  autumn,  before  a  fire  is  built,  examine  all  the  pipes 
carefully.     See  that  the  water-pan  is  filled.     Put  kindling  in 
the  fire-pot.     See  that  all  the  registers  are  closed, 
^starting*    °Pen  the  drafts  of  the  furnace,  and  burn  bits  of 
the  fire,      paper  near  the  smoke-pipe.    This  will  start  a  cur- 
rent of  air  upward.     Now  light  the  kindling,  and 
put  on  the  wood.     After  a  few  minutes  put  on  a  layer  of 
coal.    When  this  gets  to  burning  well,  add  enough  coal  to 
make  a  deep  bed. 


FUEL  AND   FIRES  137 

Have  the  registers  opened,  and  open  the  air-box.  As 
soon  as  the  coal  shows  that  it  is  getting  well  ignited,  close 
the  drafts  and  let  the  fire  burn  slowly.  When  the  house  is 
warm  enough,  open  the  check  a  little. 

This  fire  will  require  no  more  attention  until  evening, 
when  a  little  more  coal  or  cinders  may  be  put  on,  and  the 
damper  opened  a  few  minutes  to  let  the  gas  escape.  Close 
the  drafts,  and  check  the  fire  for  the  night. 

THE   MORNING   WORK 

In  looking  after  the  furnace  in  the  morning,  the  check 
must  first  be  closed  and  a  thin  layer  of  coal  put  on.  Now 
take  up  the  ashes  that  are  in  the  bottom  of  the 
furnace.  By  the  time  this  is  done  the  fire  will  have  tSfJjJJ8 
burned  up.  Next  open  the  dust-damper  and  shake 
the  fire,  and  with  the  long  poker  draw  all  the  clinkers  from 
the  bottom  of  the  grate.  Then  put  on  a  thick  bed  of  fresh 
coal,  and,  if  you  have  hods  or  iron-clad  barrels,  take  up  the 
ashes.  Let  the  fire  burn  for  about  ten  minutes  after  the 
final,  coal  has  been  put  on,  and  close  the  smoke-damper,  leav- 
ing'a  portion  of  the  slide  in  the  lower  door  open  until  the  fire 
has  burned  up  well,— that  is,  it  should  begin  to  look  red  on 
the  top,— then  close  the  slide. 

In  extremely  cold  weather  the  fire  must  be  shaken  down  at 
night,  and  a  good  bed  of  coal  put  on.     It  is  better  to  do  this  in 
the  early  part  of  the  evening,  so  that  the  house  may 
be  comfortable.     Sometimes,  in  very  cold  weather,     wither, 
it  may  be  necessary  to  have  the  slide  in  the  lower 
door  opened  a  tiny  bit.     In  this  case  it  will  be  advisable  to 
put  on  a  couple  of  hodfuls  of  coal  in  the  middle  of  the  day. 

One  should  keep  old  gloves,  a  cap,  and  some  light,  loose 
overgarment  to  wear  when  attending  to  the  furnace. 

See  "Care  of  the  Range"  for  explanation  of  dampers, 
drafts,  and  checks. 


138  HOME  ECONOMICS 

The  furnace  must  be  supplied  with  all  the  fresh  air  that 
it  can  heat.     The  air  enters  through  the  cold-air  box,  which 

is  opened  and  closed  with  a  slide  which  regulates 

Fresh  air     foe  flow  of  air.     If  there  is  much  wind  blowing 

forfunSe.    outside,  the  slide  should  be  only  partly  open;  if, 

on  the  other  hand,  there  is  little  or  no  wind,  the 
slide  should  be  opened  wider. 

When  the  air  coming  through  the  registers  is  cool,  it 
shows  that  more  air  is  coming  through  the  cold-air  box  than 

can  be  heated  in  the  furnace;  in  this  case  the  slide 

Eegrdat-      mug£  ke  more  near]y  closed. 

of  cold  air.       When  there  is  a  good  fire,  and  yet  but  little  heat 

is  coming  through  the  registers,  the  supply  of  air 

is  not  sufficient,  and  the  slide  of  the  air-box  must  be  opened. 

THE  COLD-AIR   BOX 

When  a  house  is  heated  by  a  furnace,  the  cold-air  box  is 
an  important  adjunct  of  the  heating  system. 

It  must  be  remembered  that  nearly  all  the  warm  air  that 
is  driven  through  the  pipes  must  come  from  out  of  doors 
j       _      through  the  cold-air  box;  part  of  the  air  is  drawn, 
tance  of     also,  from  the  cellar.     If  the  air  thus  heated  and 
C°b^-air      circulated  through  the  house  is  pure,  it  follows 
that  the  atmosphere  must  be  in  a  healthful  con- 
dition, always  provided  that  there  is  a  proper  outlet  for  the 
foul  and  exhausted  air.   If,  on  the  contrary,  the  air  that  passes 
through  the  cold-air  box  and  the  air  of  the  cellar  are  contam- 
inated, the  whole  atmosphere  of  the  house  will  -be  impure. 

The  location  of  the  outer  opening  of  the  cold-air  box,  or 

boxes,— for  it  is  best  that  there  should  be  one  on  each  of 

two  sides  of  the  house,  when  possible,— demands 

Location  of   mos^  carefui  attention.    No  matter  where  or  how 

cold-air 

box.        the  house  is  built,  the  cold-air  box  should  be 
placed  only  where  it  may  receive  uncontaminated 


FUEL  AND   FIRES  139 

air.  It  must  not  open  near  a  drain  or  cesspool,  or  near  the 
opening  of  a  sewer.  It  should  be  high  enough  from  the 
ground  to  avoid  the  drawing  in  of  damp  air.  Over  the  out- 
side opening  a  fine  wire  netting  should  be  fastened,  and  over 
this  a  coarser  one  for  the  protection  of  the  first.  These  net- 
tings should  be  removed  occasionally  to  admit  the  long  brush 
used  in  cleaning  out  the  box. 

A  clean  box  drawing  in  pure  air  means  health;  a  dirty  box 
drawing  in  dust  and  impure  air  means  disease. 

It  seems  to  me  that  if  one  can  be  sure  that  the  supply  of 
air  is  pure  and  the  water-box  is  kept  full,  the  hot-air  furnace, 
taken  all  in  all,  gives  the  purest  and  most  healthful  atmo- 
sphere to  a  house. 

HEATING-STOVES 

The  management  of  fires  in  stoves  used  exclusively  for 
heating  purposes  is  practically  the  same  as  that  of  the 
furnace  fire.    The  fire  in  a  stove  should  be  raked 
down  and  the  ashes  removed  in  the  morning.     Manage- 
Fresh  coal  should  be  put  on,  and  the  drafts  and        fire, 
damper  kept  open  long  enough  for  the  coal  to 
ignite  and  the  gas  to  pass  off.     The  stove  should  then  be 
closed,  the  damper  always  left  slightly  open  to  allow  all 
gas  to  pass  up  the  chimney.     This  precaution  of  leaving  an 
outlet  for  the  gas  is  necessary  with  all  stoves,  ranges,  and 
furnaces,  but  with  the  stove  in  the  living-rooms  the  greatest 
possible  care  must  be  taken  that  there  is  no  chance  for  the 
escape  of  gas  into  the  room. 

The  air  of  a  room  that  is  heated  by  a  stove  be-   !  Bowl  of 
comes  very  dry.     To  counteract  this,  a  bowl  of   \^Qn 
water  should  always  stand  on  top  of  the  stove;  or-    ^ 
namental  iron  vases  for  this  purpose  are  often  supplied  with 
the  stove.     The  bowl  or  vase  should  be  washed  every  morn- 
ing and  refilled  with  fresh  water. 


140  HOME  ECONOMICS 


CARE  OF   THE  RANGE 


To  get  the  best  possible  results  from  the  coal-range  it 

must  be  treated  carefully  and  intelligently.     Each  morning 

all  the  ashes  should  be  removed,  leaving,  however, 

'wag*       a  tnm  coating  on  tne  toP  °f  tne  oven  to  protect 
the  metal  and  temper  the  heat  in  that  place. 
Keep  all  the  flues  clear;  those  under  the  oven  should  be 
cleaned  once  a  month.     The  fine  ashes,  that  are  carried  over 
Keeping     m  the  current  of  hot  air  that  passes  around  and 
the  flues     under  the  oven,  accumulate  here,  and  if  not  re- 
clear.        move(i  frequently  will  prevent  a  free  circulation  of 
hot  air  about  the  oven,  which,  naturally,  will  refuse  to  bake. 
The  ashes,  by  absorbing  heat  and  impeding  circulation,  in- 
terfere with  a  proper  heating  of  the  oven. 

Every  morning,  after  the  ashes  have  been  removed  and  the 

fire  made,  all  the  dust  should  be  brushed  from  every  part  of 

the  range ;  it  should  then  be  rubbed  off  with  a  damp 

range. g     paper,  and  the  top  polished  with  a  thin  coating  of 

black-lead.   Finally  the  dry  blacking-brush  should 

be  used  to  polish  every  part. 

Black-lead  should  never  be  put  on  over  dirt,  and,  indeed, 
should  only  be  used  when  the  surface  has  lost  its  black  look. 
The  polishing  should  be  brisk  and  thorough;  if  not,  the  bot- 
toms of  the  saucepans  will  become  soiled.  This  never  hap- 
pens when  the  range  is  properly  polished.  Throughout  the 
day,  whenever  the  range  becomes  soiled,  rub  it  off  with  a 
soft  newspaper. 

A  thorough  acquaintance  with  the  drafts  and  checks  is 
imperative.  When  the  range  is  free  from  fire,  examine  every 
Knowledge  Par^  of  it.  Open  and  close  the  drafts  and  checks 
of  drafts  until  you  become  familiar  with  their  working, 
an  c  ec  s.  Learn  ^e  iocation  of  the  damper  that  carries  heat 
and  smoke  directly  into  the  chimney-flue.    This  is  often 


FUEL  AND  FIRES  141 

called  the  smoke-damper,  which  is  the  term  that  will  be  used 
in  this  book.  It  is  the  most  important  damper  in  the  range, 
and  the  one  that  causes  the  most  trouble  if  not  properly 
used. 

Learn  the  direction  in  which  a  check  or  damper    ab0utoven- 
must  be  turned  for  the  purpose  of  opening  or  clos-        flues, 
ing  it. 

Acquaint  yourself  with  the  air-chambers  or  flues  about 
the  oven. 

Examine  the  grate  to  see  how  the  contents  are  dumped 
and  the  ashes  removed  without  disturbing  the  fire. 

Learn  to  make  the  fire  and  to  regulate  it.  This  may  seem 
difficult  at  first,  but  it  is  a  matter  that  may  soon  be  con- 
quered, if  one  goes  about  it  patiently  and  intelligently. 

Anthracite  coal  is  one  of  the  most  difficult  fuels  for  the 
beginner  to  manage;  but  once  having  learned  its  require- 
ments, it  will  be  found  one  of  the  most  satisfac-      H     . 
tory  and  constant  of  friends.    We  will  begin  with      manage 
the  treatment  of  it.     Have  all  the  drafts  of  the    *n^*acite 
range  open  and  all  the  checks  closed.     See  that     \ 
there  a"fe"no  coals^ndToinylt  thin  layer  of  ashesr  on  top  of— — - 
the  oven.    Have  the  ash-box  under  the  grate  free  from  ashes 
and  cinders. 

Put  a  layer  of  paper,  lightly  crumpled,  in  the  grate.    On 
this  lay  sticks  of  kindling-wood,  placed  crosswise  upon  each 
other,  so  that  there  may  be  a  current  of  air 
through  them.     On  the  bedof  light  wood  put    Tofi™a^  a 
a  layer  of  hard  wood  cut  rather __fine.     Cover      range, 
the  range,  and  light  the  paper.    Just  as  soon 
as  the  wood  begins  to  burn,  which  will  be  in  two  or  three 
minutes,  put  on  a  thin  layer  of  coal,  and  when  this  begins 
to  ignite  add  enough  coal  to  reach  within  two  inches  of  the 
top  of  the  fire-box.     Close  the__smoke-damper,  but  keep  the 
draft  at  the  bottom  of  the  grate  open  until  the  fire  begins  to 
look  red;  then  close  the  draft.     This  fire  should  do  good 


142 


HOME  ECONOMICS 


work  for  several  hours,  when  another  layer  of  coal  may  be 
put  on. 

When  but  little  heat  is  required  the  drafts  may  all  be 

closed  and  some  of  the  checks  opened.    When  the  fire  is  not 

H  in  use  all  the  checks  should  be  opened.    This  will 

manage     keep  the  fire  smoldering  for  many  hours,  ready  to 

danhP6k     be  brought  to  a  brisk  heat  by  the  closing  of  the 

checks  and  the  opening  of  the  drafts.     By  the 

proper  use  of  the  checks  and  drafts  of  a  range  it  is  possible 

to  increase  or  diminish  the  heat  at  will.     An  explanation  of 

the  checks,  dampers,  and  drafts  is  necessary  here. 

The  damper  is  a  flat  plate  of  any  shape,  which  when  shut 
nearly— never  quite— closes  the  opening  into  that  part  of 
the  range  connected  with  the  chimney-flue.  When 
i  ethe6  °f  tne  damper  *s  closed  there  is  a  slight  drawing  of 
I  damper,  heat  through  the  flue  and  up  the  chimney;  when 
it  is  open  the  waves  of  heat  go  directly  over  the 
top  of  the  oven  and  into  the  chimney.  The  combustion 
of  the  coal  is  rapid  when  this  damper  is  open,  and  there- 
fore the  heat  on  the  top  of  the  range  is  very  great,  the 

lids  often  getting  red- 
hot.     The   heat,  how- 
ever, does   not  linger 
here;  it  passes  swiftly 
through  the  chimney- 
flue  and  is  lost  in  the 
outside       atmosphere. 
When      the      smoke- 
^  damper    is    open    the 
waves  of  heat  follow 
the  direction  of  the  ar- 
rows in  Fig.  9. 
Although  the  coal  is  now  consumed  rapidly,  and  the  heat 
it  gives  out  is  intense,  it  would  be  impossible  to  bake  in  the 
oven.     The  top  is  hot,  but  the  sides  and  bottom  are  cool. 


Fig.  9. 


FUEL  AND   FIRES 


143 


Length  of 
time 
smoke- 
damper 

should  be 
opened. 


This  is  because  the  great  gate,  as  it  were,  is  wide  open,  and 
the  heat  rushes  out  that  way  instead  of  going  by  the  long 
and  circuitous  route  it  would  take  if  the  gate 
were  closed. 

This  damper  should  be  opened  only  long  enough 
to  get  the  fire  thoroughly  started.  If  the  chim- 
ney has  a  good  draft  this  will  not  require  more 
than  ten  or  fifteen  minutes. 

When  the  smoke-damper  is  closed  the  waves  of  hot  air 
pass  over  the  oven,  down  the  side,  then  under  it,  and  up  the 
back  to  the  flue,  thus  surrounding  the  oven  with     The  effect 
a  bath  of  hot  air.    The  following  diagram  (Fig.  9a)    of  opening 
shows  roughly  the  course  the  hot  air  takes  when      smoke- 
the  smoke-damper  is  closed.    A  careful  study  of 
the  diagrams  will  teach  more  about  the  circulation  of  the 
hot  air  than  pages  of  description  could  convey.     Here  we 
see  how  the  hot  air  is 
doing  its  full  duty,  owing 
to  the  closed  damper, 
and,  also,  the  waste  that 
is  caused  when  the  air 
is  allowed  to  escape  by 
the  open  damper. 

The  drafts  are  the 
doors,  or  slides,  which 
come  below  the  fire-box 
When  they  are  open  a 
strong  current   of  air 

passes  up  through  the  fire,  causing  more  rapid  combustion 
than  when  the  air  finds  its  way  in  lesser  quantities  through 
cracks  and  small  openings. 

When  the  smoke-damper  is  closed  and  the  drafts 
are  open  the  waves  of  hot  air  circulate  around  the 
oven  (see  Fig.  9a).  If  it  is  desired  to  have  the 
oven  very  hot,  these  drafts  should  be  opened  wide. 


Fig.  9a. 


Closing 
smoke- 
damper 
heats  the 
oven. 


144  HOME   ECONOMICS 

If  a  baking  heat  is  required,  they  should  be  nearly  or  wholly 

closed,  according,  of  course,  to  the  thoroughness  with  which 

the  chimney  draws,  and  to  the  construction  of  the  range. 

The  checks  are  slides  in  the  small  door  in  the  front  of  the 

range,  that  is,  higher  than  the  fire-box.     When  these  checks 

are  opened,  a  current  of  cold  air  passes  over  the 

How  the     fire  an(j  ^us  retards  combustion.   Sometimes  there 
checks 

work.       is  an  extra  check  or  damper  in  the  pipe  that  con- 
nects the  range  v/ith  the  chimney-flue. 
When  the  checks  are  wide  open  the  combustion  of  fuel  is 
slight,  and  the  temperature  in  the  oven  and  on  the  surface  of 
the  range  is  greatly  lowered. 

It  will  be  seen  from  a  study  of  the  drafts  and  checks  that 

the  open  drafts  cause  the  fire  to  burn  rapidly;  that  the  open 

checks  retard  combustion;  that  when  a  hot  fire  is 

To  regulate    wanted  the  checks  are  closed  and  the  drafts  opened; 

combus-  J       r         ' 

tion.        that  to  obtain  a  moderate  heat  the  drafts  are  par- 
tially or  wholly  closed;  that  the  temperature  is  low- 
ered by  partially  opening  the  checks;  and  that  merely  to  keep 
the  fire  "alive"  the  drafts  should  be  closed  and  the  checks 
opened  fully. 

SOME  POINTS   TO   REMEMBER   IN  THE   TREATMENT   OF 
RANGE   FIRES 

1.  To  have  a  fire  burn  freely  there  must  be  a  free  circula- 
tion of  air  through  the  fuel;  therefore  wood  and  coal  must 
be  put  on  lightly  and  in  such  a  manner  that  the 

'fire^ro?-6    air  can  pass  freely  through  the  whole  bed.    Sticks 

eriy.        of  wood  must  cross,  or  partially  cross,  each  other. 

Coal  must  never  be  packed  down,  nor  must  it  reach 

to  the  lids,  thus  preventing  a  free  circulation  of  air. 

T®  m*ke         2.  A  current  of  air  under  the  fire  causes  it  to 

burn        burn;  the  larger  and  purer  the  quantity  of  air,  the 

briskly.      more  freely  the  fire  burns  and  the  greater  the  heat. 


FUEL   AND  FIRES  145 

3.  A  current  of  cold  air  flowing  over  the  fire,  and  the 
absence  of  a  current  of  air  flowing  from  the  bottom  up 
through  the  fire,  cause  it  to  burn  slowly  and  to 

give  out  but  little  heat.  Effects  of 

4.  When  the  large  damper  leading  directly  into  &1Tove0™s 
the  flue  is  opened,  the  fire  burns  rapidly,  and  the  under  fire, 
heat  passes  over  the  top  of  the  oven,  going  imme- 
diately into  the  chimney.  Therefore  this  damper,  known  as 
the  smoke-damper,  should  be  closed  as  soon  as  the  fire  begins 
to  burn,  usually  not  more  than  ten  minutes  after  the  fire  has 
been  lighted^ 

5.  When  the  oven  is  required  very  hot,  have  the  drafts 
open  and  the  checks  closed.     When  a  little  lower  tempera- 
ture is  required,  partially  close  the  drafts;  to  re- 
duce the  temperature  still   lower,  wholly  close    ^"^JjJ0 
them;  when  an  extremely  low  temperature  is  re-        ture. 
quired,  open  the  checks;  and,  finally,  when  the 

fire  is  not  in  use,  open  all  the  checks.  This  care  of  damp- 
ers, drafts,  and  checks  will  insure  a  high  or  low  temperature 
when  you  desire  it.  It  will  save  you  from  tormenting  your- 
self and  the  fire  by  continual  shaking,  poking,  and  piling  on  of 
coal.    It  will  also  save  valuable  time,  strength,  and  material. 

6.  Keep  all  the  oven-flues  free  from  fine  ashes.  Eemoving 
Empty  the  ash-pan  of  the  range  and  replace  it  be-  e  ashes* 
fore  you  make  the  fire.  Remember  that  the  ashes  will  ab- 
sorb a  good  part  of  the  first  heat  of  the  fire. 

7.  Never  let  the  fire  burn  up  to  a  white  heat.  The  coals 
are  exhausted  in  this  way  before  they  have  had  time  to  do 
their  work.  Watch  the  fire,  and  as  soon  as  the  To  prevent 
coals  begin  to  look  red,  close  the  drafts,  unless  a  fire  bum- 
very  hot  fire  is  required  at  that  time.  Avoid  shak-  ^fjj.^^ 
ing  down  the  fire,  thus  packing  the  coals  and  cut- 
ting off  a  free  passage  of  air  through  them.  If  you  do  not 
have  a  grate  that  cuts  the  bottom  from  the  fire,  use  a  poker 
to  remove  the  ashes  from  the  bottom  of  the  grate. 

10 


146  HOME  ECONOMICS 

8.  It  must  be  remembered  that  a  bed  of  coal  that  is  toe 

shallow  will  not  burn;  it  should  be  at  least  seven  inches  deep 

-    ..    .      but  on  no  account  should  the  coal  come  to  the  tor 
Depdi  of  a 

bed  of  coal,    of  the  fire-box. 

9.  An  anthracite  coal  fire  should  not  be  stirred 

Sfireslg     on  ^ne  ^°P*    Bituminous  coal  fires  often  require  a 

little  stirring  when  a  hot  fire  is  wanted. 

10.  When  one  cooks  with  wood,  a  bed  pf  clear  coals  for 

broiling  may  be  obtained  by  filling  the  stove  with  hard  wood. 

Preparing    and  shutting  all  the  dampers  that  the  wood  maj 

afor°broU-6    ^urn  slowly-     Tne  oven  wil1  be  m  Sood  conditior 
ing.        for  baking  with  this  slow,  even  fire. 

GRATE    FIRES 

The  combustion  of  the  grate  fire  is  regulated  by  a  bact 
damper,  and  a  blower,  or  "  apron." 

When  the  back  damper  is  opened,  and  the  blower  or  apror 

in  place,  the  air  is  drawn  under  and  through  the  fuel,  anc 

passes  out  by  way  of  the  chimney-flue.     Undei 

dam  °er      these  conditions  the  combustion  is  rapid  and  the 

andblowor.    heat  great,  but  much  of  this  heat  goes  up  the 

chimney.    Therefore,  as  soon  as  the  fire  is  ignited 

the  blower  should  be  raised  and  the  damper  closed.    If  this 

is  done  while  the  coals  are  still  black  on  top,  you  will  have  i 

fire  that  will  grow  bright  and  hot  gradually,  and  that  wil 

last  the  greater  part  of  the  day. 

Samedirec-       ^e  directions  given  for  making  the  range  fire 
tions  apply    will  apply  also  to  the  grate  fire. 

10 n?^6  The  grate  should  be  kePt  black>  and  the  heart* 

clean  and  bright. 

don'ts 

1.  Don't  stir  a  hard-coal  fire  on  the  top. 

2.  Don't  pack  the  coal. 


FUEL  AND  FIRES  147 

3.  Don't  let  the  coal  come  to  the  top  of  the  lining  of  the 
fire-box. 

4.  Don't  let  the  ashes  remain  in  the  ash-pan  to  absorb  the 
heat. 

TO    REMOVE    CLINKERS 

When  clinkers  adhere  to  the  lining  of  the  fire-box,  they 
may  be  easily  removed.  Put  a  thick  bed  of  oyster-  or  clam- 
shells on  the  red-hot  fire.  The  heat  converts  the  shells  into 
quicklime,  which  loosens  the  clinkers.  If  the  shells  are  not 
to  be  had,  put  a  few  pounds  of  quicklime  on  the  fire.  In  the 
morning,  when  the  cinders  and  ashes  are  removed,  the 
clinkers  may  be  detached  from  the  lining  by  a  few  light 
blows  of  the  poker.  If  any  still  adhere,  do  not  use  force, 
but  try  the  shells  or  lime  again  the  next  day. 

The  reason  why  there  are  clinkers  at  all  in  the  range  is 
because  the  fire  has  been  allowed  to  burn  up  to  a  white 
heat.  Proper  attention  to  the  fire,  and  a  care  to  remove  all 
substances  from  the  lining  of  the  fire-box  every  morning, 
thus  keeping  it  smooth,  will  prevent  this  annoyance. 


CHAPTER  VIII 

TABLE  SERVICE 

General  arrangements  of  the  table.  The  breakfast-table.  The  dinner- 
table.  The  luncheon-table.  The  tea-table.  Waiting  on  the  table.  Cere- 
monious entertaining.  Some  points  on  table  etiquette.  The  duties  oJ 
the  waitress.    Protecting  the  table  from  hot  dishes. 

On  the  proper  table  service  much  of  the  comfort,  cheer- 
fulness, and  refinement  of  the  family  depend.  No  amounl 
of  lavishness  and  perfection  in  the  preparation  of  the  food  wil 
compensate  for  poor  arrangements  and  service  in  the  dining- 
room.  The  most  perfect  order,  and  yet  the  greatest  free- 
dom, should  exist.  Table  manners  and  service  are  ar 
excellent  gage  of  the  refinement  of  a  family  and  of  a  people 

There  are  certain  definite  rules  which  should  be  followec 
in  all  households,  from  the  very  simplest  to  the  mosl 
Unwritten  sumPtuous.  Then,  there  are  unwritten  laws  oi 
laws  of  good  breeding  which  will  naturally  lead  people  oJ 
good^reed-  jnnate  refinement  to  be  careful,  in  act  and  speech 
to  do  nothing  at  table  which  could  give  offense  tc 
the  most  fastidious. 

It  is  the  duty  of  every  one  to  do  his  or  her  part  to  mak< 
the  time  passed  at  table  as  bright  and  full  of  cheer  as  possi 
ble.  The  worry,  haste,  lack  of  conversation,  and  often  th< 
ill  temper  shown  at  table  have  much  to  do  with  the  national 
disease  known  as  dyspepsia. 

148 


TABLE  SERVICE  149 

The  dining-room  should  be  well  lighted  and  well  ventilated. 
The  chairs  should  be  comfortable,  with  backs  that  are  almost 
straight,  and  they  should  be  absolutely  firm  and 
strong.     The  table  should  be  broad;  it  is  nearly      ™ntya- 
impossible  to  arrange  a  narrow  table  elegantly.  tion. 

No  matter  what  the  style  of  living  may  be,— 
and  this  applies  to  the  simplest  as  well  as  the  most       should 
elaborate  households,— there  should  always  be  a    always  be 
care  to  make  the  table  and  food  pleasing  to  the     tractive, 
eye.    Well-laundered  table-linen,  tableware  that 
has  been  properly  washed  and  wiped  and  that  is  arranged  in 
an  orderly  manner,  are  the  strongest  factors  in  making  a 
table  elegant  and  attractive.     A  few  flowers  loosely  ar- 
ranged, a  bunch  of  ferns,  or  a  small  plant  or  fern  will  adorn 
and  brighten  a  table  more  than  any  other  one  thing  that  can 
be  used.     Such  decorations  are  in  place  on  the  humblest  or 
the  most  sumptuous  tables. 

The  table-linen  should  be  of  as  fine  a  quality  as  one's  purse 
will  allow.  The  oftener  a  good  piece  of  linen  is  laundered, 
the  more  beautiful  it  grows,  so  that  a  good  mate-  jaMeJiiiffli 
rial  is  always  cheap  in  the  end.  If  the  table-linen  must  be 
is  of  a  fine,  heavy  quality,  it  should  not  be  starched.  weJJ  Jj1110 
If,  however,  it  is  thin,  it  will  require  a  very  little 
starch  to  give  it  body.    (See  "  Table-linen,"  under  "  Laundry.") 

It  would  be  impossible  to  give  rules  for  table  service  that 
would  apply  to  all  families,  but  there  are  certain  fundamental 
principles  which  must  be  observed  in  any  well-ordered  home. 
In  the  sections  on  the  "  General  Arrangements  of  the  Table," 
"Waiting  on  the  Table,"  and  "The  Duties  of  the  Waitress" 
these  principles  are  embodied.  When  one  has  made  herself 
mistress  of  these  methods,  it  is  not  a  difficult  matter  to  en- 
large upon  or  abbreviate  the  table  service,  as  special  occa- 
sions and  one's  manner  of  living  may  demand. 

Ceremonious  occasions  call  for  special  service;  Special  ser- 
the    sections    on   company   dinners,    luncheons,        vlce* 


150  HOME  ECONOMICS 

suppers,  etc.,  will  aid  the  housekeeper  in  mapping  out  such 

entertainments. 

It  must  never  be  forgotten  that  the  personality  of  the 

mistress  of  the  house  should  be  felt  in  all  the  appointments 

of  her  table,  both  in  the  intimacy  of  her  family, 

The  person-    an(j  on  ^  more  formal  occasions  when  she  enter- 
alityofthe  . 

mistress,     tains  her  friends. 

Certain  rules  that  are  understood  and  observed 
by  all  well-bred  people,  the  world  over,  cannot  be  changed; 
but  decorations  and  the  minor  services  should  have  a  dis- 
tinct individuality. 

GENERAL  ARRANGEMENTS  OF  THE  TABLE 

As  far  as  it  relates  to  the  table,  there  is  one  point  in  the 
dining-room  that  may  be  regarded  as  the  center.  The 
chandelier  is  usually  this  point.  The  center  of  the  table 
should  come  exactly  under  the  center  of  the  chandelier. 

The  first  proceeding  in  the  laying  of  the  table  is  the  pla- 
cing of  the  thick  cloth,  either  felt,  double  Canton  flannel,  or 
one  of  the  many  thick  materials  that  are  made 

cfoth.  G  for  tnis  purpose.  When  this  under-cloth  is 
smoothly  in  place,  spread  the  linen  cloth  over  it, 
taking  care  to  have  the  crease  in  the  middle  of  the  cloth 
come  exactly  in  the  middle  of  the  table,  and  crossing  the 
crease  of  the  cross-fold  precisely  at  the  center.  The  lines 
of  the  table  being  true,  next  put  the  plates  in  position.  If 
you  cannot  measure  accurately  with  your  eye,  use 
thepSSei.  a  yardstick  to  determine  the  distance  between  the 
plates,  which  should  be  at  least  twenty  inches. 
When  the  plates  are  correctly  placed  it  will  be  easy  to  ar- 
range the  table  symmetrically.  The  center  ornament  should 
next  be  put  in  place,  and  after  that  the  silver  and  glass. 

Place  knives  and  spoons  at  the  right  of  the  plate,  having 
the  ends  of  the  handles  near  the  edge  of  the  table,  the  sharp 


TABLE  SERVICE  151 

edge  of  the  knives  toward  the  plate,  and  the  inside  of  the 
bowls  of  the  spoons  turned  up.     The  forks  should  be  at  the 
left  side  of  the  plate,  with  the  inside  turned  up.      x^ves 
Place  the  glasses  at  the  right  of  the  plate,  the    forks,  and 
water-glass  just  coming  to  the  point  of  the  knife,      glasses. 
If  carving-cloths  are  used,  arrange  them  before     xapkins 
the  plates  are  put  on  the  table.     Fresh  napkins 
may  be  put  on  the  plates,  or  at  the  left-hand  side  of  the 
plates;  the  napkins  in  rings  go  at  the  side  of  the  plates. 

Individual  salt-cellars  are  the  most  satisfactory,  provided 
there  are  small   spoons  to  go  with  them.     In  any  case, 
whether  individual  or  large  salt-cellars  are  used, 
there  must  be  a  small  spoon  for  each  salt-cellar.       \^e ' 
The  individual  salt-cellars  are  placed  at  the  top 
of  the  plates,  the  large  ones  at  the  corners  of  the  table,  or 
at  the  sides,  where  they  may  be  within  reach  of  several  peo- 
ple.    It  is  a  saving  of  time  for  the  waitress  if  water  carafes 
are  used.    There  should  be  one  carafe  to  every  three  or  four 
people.    A  bowl  of  crushed  ice,  if  ice  is  served,  and  a  spoon 
should  be  placed  near  the  carafe. 

THE   BREAKFAST-TABLE 

The  arrangement  of  the  breakfast-table  is  after  the  gen- 
eral plan  already  given.  If  fruit  and  mush  are  served,  there 
should  be  a  fruit-knife  and  teaspoon  at  the  side  of  each  plate 

with  the  knife.     Finger-bowls  and  fruit-doilies 

•  The  ar- 

should  always  be  provided  when  fruit  is  served.    rangement 

Warm  dishes  for  the  mush,  and  a  tablespoon       of  the 
with  which  to  serve  it,  may  be  set  before  a  mem-     ^hie?*" 
ber  of  the  family. 

Cups  and  saucers,  sugar,  cream,  and  rests  for  the  hot 
coffee  and  milk,  should  be  placed  in  front  of  the  mistress  of 
the  house.  Knife,  fork,  and  spoons  may  be  placed  at  the 
head  of  the  table  for  serving  the  substantial  dishes,  and 


152  HOME  ECONOMICS 

small  butter-plates  and  butter-knife  may  be  set  near  the 
butter-dish.  If  there  should  be  griddle-cakes,  waffles,  or 
fried  mush,  an  extra  set  of  knives,  forks,  and  hot  plates 
must  be  ready  for  this  course. 

THE   DINNER-TABLE 

In  preparing  the  table  for  dinner  follow  the  general  direc- 
tions for  arranging  the  table.  The  carving-set  and  knife- 
and-fork  rests  may  be  laid  at  the  carver's  place;  the  soup- 
ladle  goes  at  the  place  of  the  mistress. 

Oil  and  vinegar  bottles  should  be  placed  on  small  doilies 
at  one  side  of  the  table,  or,  when  the  service  is  ample,  they 
may  be  brought  to  the  table  when  needed. 

The  dishes  for  the  various  courses  must  be  arranged  in 
the  pantry  or  on  the  sideboard.  The  bread  for  this  meal 
may  be  laid  in  the  fold  of  the  napkin,  or  passed  when  the 
soup  is  served,  or,  if  the  service  is  limited,  the  plate  of  bread 
may  be  placed  on  the  table. 

THE   LUNCHEON-TABLE 

The  arrangement  of  this  table  is  practically  the  same  as 
already  given  in  the  general  directions,  with  the  addition  of 
the  proper  articles  for  serving  the  food  appropriate  to  this 
meal. 

THE   TEA-TABLE 

The  tea-table  should  be  bright  and  cheery.     For  this 
meal  dainty  china  and  sparkling  glass  and  silver  are  specially 
The  tea-     desirable.     All  the  articles  for  making  and  serv- 
tabie       ing  the  tea  should  be  placed  beside  the  plate  of 
attractive    tne  mistress-    Tnis  includes  tea-cups  and  saucers, 
sugar,  cream,  tea-pot,  hot-water  pot,  and  slop- 
bowl.    If  the  tea  is  to  be  made  at  the  table,  the  tea-kettle, 


TABLE  SERVICE  153 

filled  with  boiling  water,  should  be  in  place,  and  the  lamp 
under  it  should  be  lighted  just  as  the  family  sit  down  to  the 
table. 

The  substantial  dish,  be  it  hot  or  cold,  should  be  placed 
at  the  end  of  the  table,  opposite  the  tea  service.  As  this 
meal  usually  consists  of  tea,  bread  and  butter,  Arranffe. 
cold  meat  or  some  hot  relish,  cake  and  some  form  ment  and 
of  cooked  or  preserved  fruit,  the  food  may  be  ^^SL0' 
placed  on  the  table  before  the  family  take  their 
places.  When  the  usual  tea  is  replaced  by  a  hot  supper,  it 
is  necessary  to  have  warm  plates,  and  to  change  the  plates 
when  the  sweets  are  served. 

WAITING   ON   THE   TABLE 

The  waitress  should  stand  at  the  back  of  the  mistress,  or 
while  the  meat  is  being  carved  at  the  back  of  the  carver. 
She  should  take  each  plate,  as  it  is  ready  to  serve, 
in  her  right  hand,  and  place  it  before  the  person     waitress? 
for  whom  it  is  intended. 

If  vegetables  or  a  sauce  are  to  be  served  with  the  meat, 
they  should  follow  as  quickly  as  possible,  the  waitress  pass- 
ing the  dishes  on  a  tray,  or  holding  them  in  her     How  the 
hands.     She  must  go  to  the  left  side  of  the  per-     waitress 
son  served,  and  hold  the  dishes  so  low  that  one    sbShserve 
can  serve  one's  self  with  ease. 

Everything  is  served  at  the  left,  except  water  and  other 
liquids  that  must  be  poured  into  a  glass.  All  soiled  dishes 
should  be  removed  from  the  left.  Sometimes  this  is  done 
from  the  right. 

The  plate  of  soup,  fish,  meat,  etc.,  should  be  placed  in 
front  of  the  person  served,  not  held  for  him  to  take.  The 
waitress  should  hold  all  large  dishes  in  her  hands,  and  pass 
small  ones  on  a  tray. 

At  a  dinner  or  luncheon,  before  serving  the  dessert, 


154  HOME  ECONOMICS 

everything  except  the  glasses,  olives,  confectionery,  and 

fruit  must  be  removed,  and  the  table  must  be  brushed  free 

from  crumbs.     The  best  implements  for  doing 

What  shall    ^[q  are  a  small  tray,  and  a  broad-bladed  knife 

removed,     like  a  fish-knife.      This  knife   should  be  used 

gently  and  lightly,  so  as  not  to  injure  the  texture 

of  the  fine  damask.     Pieces  of  bread,  or  any  fragments  that 

may  have  fallen  on  the  table,  are  to  be  lifted  with  this  knife 

and  put  on  the  tray. 

The  waitress  should  never  pile  one  dish  upon  another. 
When  one  has  finished  a  course,  the  knife,  fork,  or  spoon 
should  be  placed  in  the  center  of  the  plate.     If  two  pieces 
of  silver  have  been  used,  they  should  be  placed 

knif^T  kf   s^e  ky  s^e  uPon  *ne  P*ate>  n°t  at  an  angle  to  each 

and  spoon    other,  that  there  may  be  no  danger  of  accidents 

when  one     when  the  plate  is  lifted.     The  waitress  should  not 

finished,     attempt  to  take  more  than  two  such  plates  at  a 

time.     The  large  dishes  should  be  carried  out  in 

Dishes      the  hands.    Small  dishes  may  be  placed  on  a  tray 

be  piled  one    an(*  thus  carried  out,  but  they  should  never  be 

on  another,    piled  one  upon  the  other.     Unless  the  carver  is 

careful  to  place  the  carving-knife  and  -fork  in  a 
secure  position,  it  is  best  to  avoid  all  possibility  of  accidents 
by  removing  them  on  the  tray. 

In  order  to  make  the  various  changes  quickly,  it  will  be 
found  a  great  convenience  to  have  a  large  table  in  the 
pantry  off  the  dining-room,  where  the  dishes  may  be  placed 
as  they  are  removed  from  the  table.  If  there  is  a  second 
person  here,  who  can  sort  the  dishes  and  put  them  aside  as 
rapidly  as  they  are  brought  out,  matters  will  be  much 
simplified. 

CEREMONIOUS   ENTERTAINING 

When  entertaining  ceremoniously,  the  hostess  has  many 
things  to  consider.    If  your  friends  drop  in  unexpectedly,  or 


TABLE  SERVICE  155 

come  frequently  and  without  ceremony,  it  is  true  hospitality 
to  give  a  cordial  welcome  and  share  with  them  that  which 
was  provided  for  your  own  family.     A  consider- 
ate person  would  feel  very  uncomfortable  if  he      m^fner 
felt  or  knew  that  his  hostess  had  been  incom-     andfore- 
moded  by  his  arrival.     When  one  sets  a  time  for    Hj?uglli0,i 
entertaining   one's   friends   it   is  another  case,    hostess  an 
From  the  time  your  guest  enters  your  house  until    ot^06  °f 
he  departs  you  are  responsible  for  his  comfort       taiity.P 
and  happiness,  and  by  your  forethought  and  care 
everything  that  can  be  done  toward  that  end  should  be  done. 

The  first  consideration  is  the  selection  of  your  guests. 
They  must  be  people  who  are  congenial  to  each  other,  or,  if 
there  are  strangers,  care  must  be  taken  that  they 
are  all  people  whom  you  have  reason  to  think    (j^^JJ' 
would  be  congenial.  guests  that 

Having  settled  upon  your  guests,  your  next  step     ^y  m&J 
is  to  provide  the  best  entertainment  that  your      genial. 
means  and  style  of  living  will  permit.    Nothing  can 
be  in  worse  taste  than  to  attempt  to  entertain  in  the  same 
manner  in  which  your  friends  entertain,  if  they  are  richer  or 
poorer  than  yourself. 

Never  attempt  more  than  you  can  do  well  with  the  appli- 
ances and  help  at  your  command.     A  simple  dinner  of  three 
courses,  where  everything  is  of  the  best  quality, 
perfectly  cooked  and  served,  and  where  the  hos-    ce8sadin- 
tess  is  at  her  ease,  is  more  likely  to  be  a  sue-   nermustbe 
cess  than  an  elaborate  dinner,  badly  prepared  and      s^ed. 
served,  with  a  hostess  distrait  and  embarrassed. 
Of  course,  if  money  is  no  consideration,  and  one  has  a  well- 
equipped  household,  entertaining  may  be  an  easy  matter  for 
the  hostess,  if  she  has  the  true  spirit  of  hospitality,  and 
understands  how  to  select  her  guests  and  control  her  forces. 
For  the  woman  with  but  one  servant,  or  the  one  who  does 
her  own  work  and  who  must  make  every  dollar  count,  it  is 


156  HOME   ECONOMICS 

another  matter.  At  the  same  time,  this  latter  class  should 
not  deprive  themselves  and  their  friends  of  one  of  the  most 
delightful  pleasures  of  domestic  life.  If  such 
moderate  women  will  make  it  a  rule  to  entertain  simply  and 
means  may  in  accordance  with  their  purses  and  mode  of  life, 
sfmpiyand  tnev  w^  Sive  an(*  receive  a  great  deal  of  plea- 
weii  with     sure. 

lim^ser"  Fashion  changes  in  the  manner  of  dinner-giv- 
ing, as  in  everything  else.  Formerly  the  company 
dinner  was,  with  its  numerous  courses  and  long  hours  at  ta- 
ble, a  thing  to  be  dreaded  as  much  by  the  guest  as  by  the 
hostess.  To-day  the  dinner  is  much  simpler,  and  generally 
much  more  successful  as  a  gastronomic  and  social  affair. 

In  this  country  the  order  of  a  simple  company  dinner  is 

about  as  follows.   The  first  course  is  oysters  or  clams  on  the 

half-shell,  or  canapes  of  sardines,  caviar,  or  some 

Proper  sue-    0ther  light  relish;  or  the  dinner  may  begin  with 

courses,      the  soup.    This  is  followed  by  the  fish,  with  which 

a  sauce  is  served,  and,  of  course,  bread.     Some 

hostesses  serve  potato  in  some  form  with  this  course. 

The  next  course,  releve,  may  be  either  a  joint  of  butcher 
meat  or  poultry,  roasted,  boiled,  or  broiled,  and  one  vegeta- 
ble. If  the  fish  was  boiled  or  baked,  and  served  with  a 
sauce,  the  releve  may  be  omitted,  and  the  entree  come  next. 
Following  the  entree  may  come  a  water-ice,  half  frozen,  or 
a  cheese  course  or  vegetable  course.  After  this  course, 
roast  or  broiled  poultry  or  game,  with  a  salad  which  is  to  be 
eaten  with  it,  is  served.  The  salad  may  be  of  lettuce,  sorrel, 
chicory,  cresses,  etc.,  with  French  dressing,  or  it  may  be  of 
crisp  white  celery  with  mayonnaise  dressing.  Some  light, 
cold,  sweet  dish  may  form  the  dessert.  The  dinner  should 
be  finished  with  small  cups  of  strong  black  coffee,  which 
may  be  served  in  the  dining-room  or  in  the  drawing-room. 
Cream  and  sugar  should  be  passed  with  the  coffee.  This 
would  be  considered  by  many  dinner-givers  as  too  simple  an 


TABLE  SERVICE  157 

entertainment;  but  if  it  is  well  cooked  and  served  it  will  be 
an  elegant  and  satisfactory  one. 

The  dinner  is  usually  given  at  night,  and  it  must  be 
remembered  that  the  lights,  guests,  and  attendants  soon 
exhaust  the  oxygen  of  the  air,  therefore  the  ven- 
tilation of  the  dining-room  must  be  carefully  at-      tanceof 
tended  to,  and  it  must  be  seen  that  no  one  is  ex-     good  yen- 
posed  to  a  draft.     The  heating  apparatus,  too,     fljJSa 
must  be  regulated;  the  amount  of  heat  coming      dinner, 
into  the  room  should  be  diminished  after  the    B^SvfJ?!t 
guests  are  seated.     An  overheated  room  and  bad       warm, 
air  will  make  a  failure  of  the  finest  dinner. 

A  synopsis  of  the  method  of  serving  the  dinner  may  be 
helpful  to  the  beginner. 

1.  Raw  oysters,  or  other  hors-d'ceuvre,  are  served  on 
special  or  small  plates,  which  are  placed  in  the  Syn0pSis  of 
plate  already  before  the  guest.  method  of 

2.  Oyster-plates  removed,  and  soup  placed  be-      SJjJjJ? 
fore  each  guest. 

3.  Soup-plates  removed. 

4.  Plate  with  fish  placed  before  each  guest. 

In  serving  each  course,  the  waitress  removes  the  empty 
plate  of  the  previous  course  with  the  left  hand,  and  places 
the  plate  for  the  succeeding  course  with  the  right  hand. 

The  sauce,  if  not  served  with  the  fish,  is  passed;  also  the 
vegetable,  if  there  is  one. 

5.  Fish-plate  removed,  and  the  releve  served,  sauce  and 
vegetable  being  passed. 

6.  Cheese  course,  or  half-frozen  ice  served  in  glasses. 

7.  Roast  or  broiled  game  or  poultry,  with  dressed  green 
salad.  If  one  wishes  a  vegetable,  that  may  be  served  here 
also,  or  the  vegetable  may  follow  in  a  course  by  itself. 

8.  Brush  the  table,  and  serve  the  dessert. 

9.  Serve  the  coffee.  Some  hostesses  have  the  coffee 
served  in  the  drawing-room0 


158  HOME  ECONOMICS 

If  fruit  is  served,  there  must  be  fruit-knives  and  -napkins. 

Fruit-  Many  hostesses  do  not  have  finger-bowls  brought 

knives  and  to  the  ta^e  uniess  fruit  has  been  served, 

also  finger-  No  f  ood  that  will  leave  a  pronounced  odor  on 

bowls.  the  hands,  as  celery,  for  example,  should  be  served 
wMchwtii  at  a  ceremonious  dinner.  Bread  should  be  sup- 
leave  odor  plied  to  the  guests  from  the  beginning  of  the 

Uhand?6  dinner  t0  the  dessert- 

Bread  Tne  custom  of  serving  cheese  with  crisp  bread, 

served  like  pulled  bread,  for  example,  or  crackers,  as  a 

^ut^he"  last   course  is  very  much   in  favor  with   some 

dinner.  dinner-givers.     The  crackers  or  bread  should  be 

crisp  and  fresh  and  the  cheese  the  best  of  its  kind. 


SOME  POINTS  ON  TABLE  ETIQUETTE 

The  proper  attitude  at  the  table  is  an  erect  one;  there 
should  be  no  leaning  against  the  back  of  the  chair;  neither 
should  one  rest  one's  arms  on  the  table  nor  crowd 
At  table! at    or  incommode  one's  neighbor. 

Avoid  making  a  noise  in  masticating  your  food 
or  in  drinking. 

When  a  dish  is  handed  around,  serve  yourself  promptly 
and  with  a  care  not  to  mar  the  appearance  of  the  food. 

When  asked  your  preference  as  to  the  portion  of  the 

joint,  answer  at  once,  and,  if  you  have  one,  express  your 

Accent-      preference.     There  is  nothing  more  annoying  to 

anceof  food    a  carver  than  to  have  to  wait  while  some  one  de- 

as  it  is  liberates  as  to  his  choice  in  this  matter.  When- 
ever possible,  one  should  be  content  with  what 
has  been  served  him.  At  the  family  table  it  is  perfectly 
proper  to  ask  that  too  rare  or  too  well  done  a  piece  of  meat 
be  changed  for  one  better  done  or  more  rare,  as  the  case 
may  be,  and  it  is  the  duty  of  whoever  serves  the  food  to  as- 
certain the  tastes  of  each  individual,  and,  as  far  as  he  is  able, 
to  satisfy  them.     On  the  other  hand,  each  member  of  the 


TABLE  SERVICE  159 

family  should  cultivate  a  habit  of  consideration  and  appre- 
ciation, and  not  be  too  capricious  or  exacting.     There  are 
people  who  invariably  come  to  the  table  in  a  crit-    . 
ical  and  fault-finding  mood,  often  refusing  the      of  fault- 
food  at  the  home  table  that  they  compliment  at     nnd^g  at 
the  table  of  a  friend  or  order  at  a  hotel  or  res- 
taurant.   These  thoughtless  fault-finders  can  never  estimate 
the  amount  of  mental  discomfort  they  inflict  upon  those  that 
are  dearest  to  them,  or  the  burden  of  extra  labor  they  put 
upon  the  shoulders  of  mother,  wife,  or  maid. 

When  a  plate  is  sent  back  for  a  second  portion,  care 
should  be  taken  to  place  the  knife  and  fork,  or  spoon, 
straight  on  the  plate,  and  a  little  to  one  side,  so  p  .„  f 
that  there  may  be  no  danger  of  their  slipping  knife  and 
off,  and  a  part  of  the  plate  shall  be  ready  to  re-  fojfcon 
ceive  the  food.  If,  as  is  the  case  in  some  houses, 
there  is  a  knife-rest  beside  each  plate,  let  the  tips  of  the 
knife  and  fork  rest  on  this,  and  send  the  free  plate  to  the 
server. 

One  should  be  careful  not  to  eat  so  rapidly       Meals 
that  the  food  may  not  be  properly  masticated,  or     should  be 
that  one  will  have  finished  while  the  others  at  the      g?ate1n 
table  are  still  eating. 

If  it  is  necessary  to  ask  for  anything  during  a  meal,  one 
should  take   the   opportunity  of  speaking  quietly  to  the 
waitress  when  she  is  near,  or  wait  until  it  is  pos- 
sible  to  catch  her  eye.  speaking 

When  a  meal  is  announced,  go  to  the  table    to  waitress, 
promptly.    It  is  annoying  to  the  housekeeper  and 
cook  to  have  the  meals  delayed.    It  often  happens      nessTn" 
that  a  few  minutes'  waiting  may  spoil  some  dish,      obeying 

!    .  .,  ,         /.  summons 

and,  m  any  case,  it  causes  a  waste  of  precious     to  meai8o 
time  to  the  housekeeper  and  other  members  of 
the  family.     Some  thoughtless  people  seem  to  think  that  it 
matters  less  that  the  whole  family  is  .kept  waiting  five 
minutes  or  more  than  that  they  should  complete  the  work 


160  HOME  ECONOMICS 

which  they  happen  to  have  in  hand.  There  are  many  jars 
and  breaks  in  the  household  machinery  from  this  cause 
alone. 

In  many  households  where  there  is  a  regular  waitress 

there  is  a  rule  sometimes  that  nothing  shall  be  handed  by 

members  of  the  family;  while  in  other  homes,  even 

ftThoua?   wnere  tnere  is  P^nty  of  service,  each  member  of 

hold  exer-    the  family  has  a  watchful  care  of  the  needs  of  the 

watchful     otner  persons  at  the  table.     In  the  second  case 

care  at      the  atmosphere  is  more  sociable  and  friendly,  and  in 

tahle  adds    f amjiy  \\f e  this  care  for  the  wants  and  comfort  of 

lO  HOfil  ft  1 

element,     others  tends  to  develop  some  of  the  most  desira- 
ble traits  of  character,  courtesy,  and  unselfishness. 
A  certain  amount  of  ceremony  should  always  be  observed, 
even  at  the  simplest  family  meal;  but  when  this  is  carried 
too  far  it  crushes  sociability  and  cheerfulness. 
F  rm  of         *n  °ffermg  to  serve  any  one  at  the  table  use 
offering      one  of  these  forms:  "May  I  help  you,"  "May  I 

se  tlhie at  offer  [°r  "send"]  y°u>"  "Let  me  sive  y°u>" etc* 

"Will  you  have,"  is  a  form  that  should  be  used 
only  by  the  waitress. 

The  mistress  of  the  house  usually  pours  the  tea  and 
coffee.     She  should  always  ask  if  her  guests  take  sugar  and 

cream.     To  the  minds  of  many  people  the  flavor 

P£ao?      °*  the  tea  or  coffee  is  much  improved  if  the  hot 
coffee.       beverage  is  poured  on  the  cream  and  sugar.    The 
hostess  must  be  careful  to  inquire  just  how  much 
sugar  and  cream  the  guest  takes,  and  he  should  be  equally 
careful  to  state  the  amount.     The  sugar  and  cream  should 
Upon  little    ^e  nanded  w^h  the  beverage,  so  that  each  one  may 
matters      add  more,  if  he  desires.     These  little  matters  are 
perfection    necessarv>  because  upon  them  depends  the  per- 
fection of  his  cup  of  tea  or  coffee,  a  considera- 
tion by  no  means  unimportant  to  the  habitual  tea-  or  coffee- 
drinker. 


TABLE  SERVICE  161 

The  spoon  should  never  be  left  in  the  cup.  The  knife 
and  fork  should  be  placed  straight  on  the  plate 

after  using,  and  side  by  side.     Toothpicks,  like  should6 

tooth-brushes,  should  be  used  only  in  the  privacy  leaveknife, 

of  one's  room.     It  is  extremely  important  that  foJpJ^d 

Children  should  be  well  trained  in  all  these  little  Where  a 

points,  since  the  habits  of  youth  are  apt  to  follow  Jouldbe 

one  through  life.  used. 


THE   DUTIES   OF   THE    WAITRESS 

The  personal  appearance  of  the  waitress  requires  special 
attention.     She  should  not  be  too  large  or  too  old.    She 
should  be  trim  in  her  appearance,  quiet  in  manner, 
and  light  of  foot.     Her  dress  should  always  be      appear- 
clean  and  well  fitting,  and  her  apron,  collar,  and     ance  aud 

a  ,i  dress  of  the 

cuffs  spotless.  waitress. 

Fashion  at  present  decrees  that  the  waitress 
should  wear  a  black  dress,  white  collar  and  cuffs,  a  white 
apron,  and  a  small  white  cap.  In  many  well-regulated 
households,  however,  the  waitress  wears  a  light  print  dress, 
a  fashion  which  must  always  commend  itself,  because  it 
means  freshness  and  cleanliness.  The  waitress  should  wear 
boots  with  soft  soles,  or  slippers,  that  she  may  move  about 
the  dining-room  noiselessly. 

She  should  understand  her  duties  so  well,  and    Theatteu- 
be  so  attentive  to  the  wants  of  the  family,  that     Stress, 
it  should  not  be  necessary  to  ask  for  anything 
during  a  meal,  unless  a  special  taste  that  could  not  ordin- 
arily have  been  anticipated  is  to  be  gratified. 

During  a  ceremonious  dinner  or  luncheon  it  is  particularly 
important  that  all  the  service  should  be  rendered  without  a 
word  being  exchanged  between  mistress  and  maid.  This 
can  be  accomplished  only  by  seeing  that  the  maid  has  a  clear 
understanding  of  all  that  is  required,  and  that  she  is  watch- 


162  HOME  ECONOMICS 

ful  of  each  guest.  If  she  is  in  the  daily  habit  of  discharg- 
ing these  duties  carefully,  she  will  be  in  proper  training  for 
the  more  formal  occasions.  It  takes  constant  practice  to 
arrive  at  perfection. 

The  regular  duties  of  the  waitress,  as  they  re- 
Regular     jate  t0  the  dining-room  and  its  accessories,  are 

duties  of  to 

waitress,     quite  varied. 

The  waitress  sharpens  the  carving-knives. 

When  a  meal  is  ready  she  announces  it.     The  method  of 

making  this  announcement  varies  with  the  habits  of  the 

family  and  the  style  of  living.     If  it  is  the  custom 

cingmeais.    of  tne  family  to  gather  in  the  living-room  or 

drawing-room  before    each   meal,   the   waitress 

comes  to  the  door,  and,  addressing  the  mistress  of  the  house, 

says,  "  Dinner  "  (or  whatever  the  meal  may  be)  "  is  served." 

When  the  family  is  large  and  scattered  at  meal-times,  and 

the  service  is  limited,  the  meal  is  announced  by  means  of  a 

bell  or  gong.     In  this  case  the  bell  or  gong  should  be  as 

musical  as  possible. 

The  other  duties  of  the  waitress  may  be  enumerated  as 
follows: 

1.  Before  breakfast  she  should  air  and  dust  the  dining- 
room,  and  if  there  is  an  open  fire  there  she  should  make 
that,  brushing  and  washing  the  hearth. 

tioXfor         2*  ^ne  snoul(i  tnen  Place  tne  plates  and  serving- 
breakfast,     dishes  to  warm. 

3.  Set  the  table. 

4.  Prepare  the  butter,  cut  the  bread,  draw  the  cold  water, 
and  place  the  breakfast  on  the  table.  If,  as  is  the  case  in 
most  families,  she  is  not  required  after  the  coffee  and  sub- 
stantial part  of  the  meal  have  been  served,  she  may  leave 
the  dining-room  and  attend  to  other  duties. 

If  but  two  maids  are  kept,  the  waitress  then  goes  up-stairs 
and  puts  the  beds  and  sleeping-rooms  to  air.  After  this  her 
own  breakfast  will  be  ready. 


TABLE  SERVICE  163 

5.  When  the  family  meal  is  finished  the  table  should  be 
cleared  in  this  manner:  Have  a  tray  on  which  to  gather  all 
the  silver  and  knives,  care  being  taken  to  keep  the     pr 
silver  separate  from  the  steel  knives.    In  the  pan-      tioii  for 
try  put  the  knives  in  a  pitcher  of  water, —the  water     washing 
must  not  reach  the  handles,— and  the  silver  in  a 

similar  pitcher  of  water.  There  are  pitchers  that  come  in 
tin  for  this  purpose.  Place  all  the  small  articles  on  the  tray, 
carry  them  into  the  pantry,  and  sort  the  dishes,  rinsing  them 
off  under  the  cold-water  faucet.  Pile  them,  each  with  its 
own  kind,  on  one  part  of  the  table.  Fill  empty  milk  and 
cream  pitchers  with  cold  water,  and  set  them  aside  to  soak. 

6.  Return  to  the  dining-room  and  brush  the  gettine 
crumbs  from  the  table-cloth.  Remove  the  cloth  dining- 
and  fold  it,  being  careful  to  lay  the  folds  in  the  r001?-  ™ 
old  creases.    Do  this  as  carefully  as  possible,  so  as 

not  to  wrinkle  the  cloth.  Put  away  the  table-cloth  and  nap- 
kins.    Dust  and  air  the  dining-room. 

7.  Go  back  to  the  pantry  and  wash  the  dishes  Washing 
as  directed  under  "  Care  of  Tableware."  As  soon  b*ffiffi,t 
as  the  milk  and  cream  pitchers  are  washed,  fill 

them  with  boiling  water,  and  let  them  stand  until  all  the 
work  in  the  pantry  is  finished. 

8.  Wipe  the  pantry  shelves,  and  examine  the  receptacles 

in  which  bread,  cake,  sugar,  etc.,  are  kept.     See  that  they 

are  clean  and  that  the  food  is  in  good  condition. 

Make  a  list  of  articles  that  are  needed.    Wash  the    Setti?&  ?* 

pantry  in 
tables,  sink,  dish-pans,  towels,  and  dish-cloth,  and       order. 

hang  the  towels  and  dish-cloth  out  to  dry.    Sweep 

the  pantry  floor,  and  if  there  are  any  soiled  places  on  it,  wipe 

them  with  a  cloth  wrung  out  of  hot  water,  wiping  with  a 

dry  cloth. 

9.  The  noonday  meal,  whether  it  is  luncheon  or  The  noon- 
dinner,  will  require  warm  dishes.  The  dishes  to  be  day  mea1, 
warmed  should  be  put  in  the  heater  at  least  half  an  hour  before 


164  HOME  ECONOMICS 

serving  the  meal.  The  waitress  should  see  that  the  dining- 
room  is  properly  heated  in  winter,  and  that  the  shades  are  ar- 
ranged to  make  a  pleasant  light.  The  table  should  be  set,  the 
bread,  butter,  and  water  prepared,  and  the  meal  served  on 
time.  If  there  are  to  be  salads,  cheese,  fruit,  etc.,  for  this 
meal,  the  waitress  usually  prepares  them.  She  also  has 
charge  of  the  pickles,  olives,  sardines,  potted  meats,  fruits, 
and  similar  dainties. 

10.  Dinner,  as  a  rule,  comes  in  the  evening,  and  requires 

special  care  on  the  part  of  the  cook  and  waitress.    Warm 

dishes  for  the  hot  food  and  cold  dishes  for  the 

HandPlold8  c0^  ^00(*  are  mvariaDty  needed  for  this  meal.  It 
plates.  is  of  the  greatest  importance  that  the  waitress 
should  understand  the  necessity  of  serving  hot 
food  on  well-warmed  plates,  and  cold  food  on  absolutely 
cold  plates.  A  cold  plate  will  quickly  absorb  the  heat 
from  soup,  sauce,  meat,  or  fish,  while  a  warm  plate,  by  im- 
parting its  own  heat,  will  ruin  a  food  that  should  be  served 
cold.  At  the  same  time,  care  must  be  taken  to  avoid  going 
to  the  extreme  of  having  the  plates  so  hot  that  they  are 
difficult  to  handle  or  will  mar  the  surface  of  the  table. 

The  bread  for  dinner  is  cut  thick.   If  the  loaf  is  a  square 

one,  the  slices  are  divided  into  two  or  four  parts,  according 

to  the  size  of  the  loaf.     Slices  from  the  round 

£^er°r     French  loaf  are  not  subdivided.     Bread  for  the 

other  meals  should  be  cut  in  thin  slices. 
Since  the  duties  of  the  waitress  vary  with  the  habits  and  cir- 
cumstances of  the  family,  I  have  attempted  to  give  only  such 
duties,  and  the  methods  of  performing  them,  as  are 

vilies  oftiie    a  Part  of  the  work  of  a  traine(i  butler  or  waitress, 

waitress     but  which  form  part  of  the  work  that  any  general 

Vmodrofh    nousemaid  is  often  required  to  do.     If  the  maid 

living.       is  thoroughly  trained  in  the  duties  here  outlined, 

it  will  be  an  easy  matter  for  either  mistress  or 

maid  to  extend  or  reduce  them. 


TABLE  SERVICE  165 

The  waitress  is  made  responsible  for  the  silver,  glass,  and 
china,  and  she  is  expected  to  keep  them  clean  and  intact. 
To  do  this  she  must  have  proper  appliances.   There 
must  be  a  place  for  everything,  and  everything    She^shouid 
must  be  kept  in  its  place.     Ample  closet-room      sibiefor 
should  be  provided,  that  there  may  be  no  need  of       silver, 
crowding  the  china,  etc.,  or  of  piling  a  great  many    g  china!* 
delicate  dishes  one  upon  another.     There  should 
be  tables  in  the  pantry,  so  that  when  the  dining-table  is 
being  cleared  it  will  not  be  difficult  to  dispose  of  the  dishes. 
The  sink  must  be  so  broad  and  the  water-faucets  so  high 
that  there  shall  be  no  danger  of  striking  the  dishes  against 
the  projecting  faucets.     If  the   sink  is  narrow  and  the 
faucets  low,  there  should  be  a  large  tray  of  galvanized  iron, 
which  should  be  placed  on  a  table,  to  hold  the  dish-pan. 
This  precaution  will  be  found  to  lessen  greatly  the  dan- 
ger of  breakage.     Having  plenty  of  hot  water,  soap,  and 
towels,  and  all  other  appliances,  the  waitress  must  do  her 
part  to  protect  the  tableware,  etc.,  committed  to  her  charge. 
She  should  always  observe  the  following  rules: 

1.  The  water  into  which  the  glass  or  china  is  R^estoi>e 
put  first  must  not  be  too  hot. 

2.  A  few  pieces  only  must  be  put  in  the  pan  at  a  time, 
and  heavy  pieces  should  never  be  placed  on  small  or  delicate 
ones. 

3.  Each  piece  should  be  wiped  with  care,  and  pressure  on 
fragile  articles  of  glass  or  china  should  be  avoided. 

4.  Care  should  be  taken  that  no  sharp,  hard  substance, 
like  a  grain  of  sand,  is  on  the  table  or  dish-cloth,  or  in  the 
dish-pan. 

5:  Delicate  glass  and  china  must  not  be  exposed  to 
extremes  of  heat  or  cold;  as,  for  instance,  a  hot  substance 
should  not  be  put  in  a  cold  dish,  or  a  cold  substance,  like  a 
frozen  mixture,  must  not  be  put  into  a  dish  that  has  not 
been  gradually  chilled. 


166  HOME  ECONOMICS 

A  scrupulous  observance  of  these  little  points  will  save  a 
world  of  trouble  and  expense. 

PROTECTING   THE   TABLE   FROM   HOT   DISHES 

Food  that  should  be  served  hot  requires  warm  plates  and 
serving-dishes,  that  it  may  lose  none  of  its  heat  while  being 
served  and  eaten.  The  serving-dish  should  be  a  little  warmer 
than  the  plates. 

As  heat  mars  varnished  and  other  polished  surfaces,  the 
table  must  be  protected  by  some  substance  that  will  prevent 
it  from  being  reached  by  heat.    The  thick  covers 
IJ"}n®1      that  are  placed  under  the  table-cloth  are  usually 
covers.      made  of  cotton,  a  material  which  is  not  a  good 
non-conductor  of  heat.     If,  instead  of  this  kind 
of  cover,  one  of  thick  flannel  is  used,  the  chances  of  excessive 
heat  passing  through  to  the  table  would  be  greatly  dimin- 
ished.   I  should  advise  a  thick  flannel  cover  for  a  handsomely 
polished  table-top. 

Thick  mats  placed  under  platters  and  other  hot  dishes  are 

a  protection.     Tiles  are  often  used  for  this  purpose,  but 

they  absorb  the  heat  from  the  dish  and  transmit 

tiles*11      ft  to  the  table.     If,  however,  the  tiles  are  set  on 

little  feet,  or  are  in  a  frame  which  raises  them 

from  the  table,  they  are  a  sufficient  protection.    Tiles  are  not 

satisfactory  supports  for  a  platter  on  which  the  joint,  or  any 

other  piece  that  is  to  be  carved,  rests,  as  the  dish  is  apt  to  slip 

about  on  the  glazed  surface.     A  thin  pad  of  flannel  may  be 

covered  with  a  linen  slip  and  placed  under  the  carving-cloth. 

For  coffee-pots,  tea-pots,  hot  water,  etc.,  there  should  be 

a  broad  tile  or  a  slightly  raised  wire  frame.     On  this  place 

a  thin  flannel  pad  covered  with  a  linen  slip.    The 

fo^tea^and    flannel  is  necessary  between  the  tile  or  wire  frame, 

coffee-pots,    as  it  conserves  the  heat  in  the  vessel  set  upon  it. 

If,  for  example,  the  tea-  or  coffee-pot  is  placed 

directly  on  the  cold  tile,  it  parts  with  its  heat  rapidly,  so  that 


TABLE  SERVICE  167 

in  protecting  the  polish  of  one's  table  one  must  not  lose  sight 
of  the  fact  that  a  beautifully  polished  surface  is  a  costly 
luxury  indeed  if,  for  the  sake  of  preserving  it,  one's  food 
and  drink  may  never  be  kept  at  a  proper  temperature.  But 
with  the  pads  of  non-conducting  material,  and  with  tiles  or 
some  other  supports  that  are  raised  sufficiently  to  allow  a 
current  of  air  to  pass  between  them  and  the  table,  food  may 
be  kept  hot  and  the  polish  of  the  table  preserved  at  the 
same  time. 


CHAPTER  IX 

MARKETING 

The  muscular  system.  Some  characteristics  of  the  muscular  flesh  of  ani- 
mals. The  minor  parts  of  the  animal.  Game  and  poultry.  Care  and 
purchase  of  general  supplies. 

This  subject  is  so  comprehensive  that  a  whole  volume 
would  hardly  cover  it;  therefore  in  one  short  chapter  there 
must  be  maay  things  that  are  not  even  touched 
chapter,  upon.  The  housekeeper  needs  clear,  concise  ex- 
planations of  the  best  methods  of  identifying  the 
materials  that  enter  into  the  daily  menu,  and  this  has  been 
attempted  in  this  chapter. 

In  most  households  the  item  of  butchers'  meat  is  often 
much  heavier  than  it  need  be,  because  of  ignorance  on  the 
part  of  the  housekeeper.  Every  woman  whose  place  is  at 
the  head  of  a  house  should  know,  at  least,  where  the  differ- 
ent cuts  come  from,  both  tender  and  tough,  what  proportion 
of  bone  there  is  to  meat,  why  the  quality  varies  in  different 
sections  of  the  animal,  what  treatment  the  different  cuts 
should  receive,  etc.  Once  having  learned  this,  the  house- 
keeper will  order  intelligently  and  get  most  satisfactory  results. 
How  to  ac-        I*  *s  not  possible  to  learn  from  books  all  that 

quire  a  one  should  know  on  this  subject,  but  with  study 
oTmarka-    a*  nome>  anQ"  frequent  visits  to  the  market,  any 

ing.        woman  may  in  time  master  this  important  branch 

168 


MARKETING  169 

of  household  economy.  The  intelligent  butcher  is  always 
glad  to  aid  his  customers  in  acquiring  this  knowledge,  for  it 
is  to  his  advantage  as  well  as  to  theirs.  The  intelligent  and 
just  customer  knows  what  she  wants,  and  appreciates  good 
service,  while  the  woman  who  has  no  knowledge  of  the  sub- 
ject is  more  difficult  to  serve. 

One  should  not  attempt  to  learn  too  much  at 
once;  confusion  of  ideas  and  discouragement  will    ^J^p°f 
be  the  result  of  such  a  course.     If  the  beginner      ing  to 
will  carry  out  the  following  program  she  will  have     ^S^J? 
a  comprehensive  knowledge  of  the  subject  at  the       once, 
end  of  six  months. 

1.  Study  the  anatomy  of  the  animal  so  as  to  know  how  to 
locate  all  the  bones.     (See  Fig.  10.) 

2.  Study  the  muscular  system,  that  the  position 

of  the  muscles  and  tendons  may  be  clear  in  the     ^™^od 
mind.    This  will  help  to  an  understanding  of  how      0f  study, 
the  meat  should  be  cut  so  that  the  slices  shall  be 
across  the  grain.     (See  Fig.  14.) 

3.  Study  the  change  of  position  of  bones  and  muscles  in 
the  hind  quarter,  as  shown  in  Figs.  15  and  16. 

4.  Become  familiar  with  the  interior  of  a  side  of  beef 
(Fig.  17),  noting  the  position  of  the  spine,  ribs,  sternum, 
kidney,  suet,  and  tenderloin. 

5.  Study  the  outline  of  the  outside  of  the  side  of  beef 
(Fig.  18),  the  position  of  each  cut,  and  its  relation  to  the 
bones  of  the  skeleton.  Look  at  Fig.  14,  and  from  that 
locate  in  each  cut  the  direction  in  which  the  muscles  run. 

One  should  become  familiar  with  the  texture    «-      - 
and  color  while  studying  the  bones  and  muscles  of     and 'text-' 
the  animal.    There  are  certain  things  that  can  be    y»  Earned 

by  ooserva- 

learned  only  by  personal  observation.    For  exam-     tion  and 
pie,  one  judges  of  the  freshness  of  fish  by  the  col-      experi- 


ence. 


or,  texture,  and  odor;  but  an  inexperienced  person 

finds  it  difficult  to  distinguish  between  a  fresh  and  a  stale 


170  HOME   ECONOMICS 

odor,  and  who  can  describe  it?    So  it  is  in  countless  little 
points  in  which  observation  and  experience  are  the  best 
teachers,  therefore  make  frequent  visits  to  the  market. 
The  ox  ^e  ox  ^as  ^een  *a^en  t°  illustrate  the  anat- 

used  to  il-    omy  and  muscular  system  of  the  animal,  but  all 

lustrate      ^he  other  animals  from  which  we  get  butchers' 
muscular  ,  .  . 

system  and    meat  are  constructed  on  the  same  plan.     The 

anatomy  smaller  animals  are  not  divided  into  so  many 
malsfrom  parts,  and  the  immature  animals,  like  veal  and 
which  we  lamb,  have  less  fat  and  hard  bone,  but  more  car- 
ers' meat"  milage;  therefore  some  portions  that  are  tough  in 
the  mature  animal  are  tender  in  the  immature 
animal.  Hence  certain  joints  that,  when  taken  from  beef 
or  mutton,  require  cooking  slowly  for  a  long  time  to  make 
them  tender,  may,  when  taken  from  lamb  or  veal,  be  cooked 
by  the  quicker  methods,  such  as  roasting  or  broiling.  Take, 
for  example,  the  neck  or  breast  of  any  animal.  To  save 
confusion  by  a  multiplicity  of  diagrams,  a  side  of  mutton 
has  been  taken  to  illustrate  the  methods  of  cutting  the 
smaller  animals.     (See  Fig.  24.) 

The  quality  of  meat  depends  upon  many  things— the  age, 

breed,  etc.,  of  the  animal,  the  amount  of  exercise,  the  kind 

of  food,  the  mode  of  dressing,  and  the  time  given  to  ripening. 

Beef.— The  ox,  steer,  heifer,  and  cow  yield  the  meat  known 

as  beef.     These  animals  are  dressed  at  the  source  of  supply, 

or  are  sent  alive  to  the  local  markets,  in  well-ven- 

What  is 

known  as     tilated  and  watered  cars,  where  they  are  dressed. 

Chicago-     In  the  last  fifteen  or  twenty  years  there  have  been 

heef6        great  changes  in  the  manner  of  supplying  the 

markets  with  beef.    Previous  to  that  time  it  was 

nearly  all  dressed  in  the  locality  in  which  it  was  sold.   This 

meant  for  the  cattle  long,  exhaustive  journeys  in  crowded 

cars.    Now  the  greater  part  of  the  beef  is  dressed  near  the 

source  which  supplies  the  cattle,  and  it  goes  by  the  name  of 

Chicago-dressed  beef. 


MARKETING  .   171 

At  the  outset  this  method  of  supplying  the  market  met 
with  opposition.  Naturally,  while  in  an  experimental  stage 
many  mistakes  were  made.  The  beef  was  often  packed  in 
the  refrigerators  before  all  the  animal  heat  had  passed  off, 
and,  as  a  consequence,  when  it  reached  the  Eastern  market 
it  had  acquired  a  peculiar  and  disagreeable  taste.  Some- 
times other  preservatives  than  cold  were  employed.  All 
this  has  been  changed,  and  now  one  cannot  ask  for  anything 
better  than  a  joint  from  a  prime  Chicago-dressed  animal. 

At  these  large  establishments  they  have  the  best  appli- 
ances for  doing  the  work  in  the  quickest,  most  painless  and 
sanitary  manner.  They  also  have  methods  for  utilizing  the 
tougher  and  less  sought  after  portions  of  the  animal,  send- 
ing East  the  most  marketable  portions.  This  gives  a  differ- 
ent-looking side  from  that  of  the  home-dressed  beef,  there 
being  less  flank  and  often  no  neck;  but  in  the  final  cutting 
into  joints  there  is  practically  no  difference  from  the  home- 
dressed. 

The  quality  of  beef,  as  of  all  kinds  of  meat,  depends  upon 
the  age  of  the  animal  and  how  fed.     Butchers  consider  that 
the  age  between  four  and  eight  years  gives  the 
best  beef.     In  former  years  none  but  "stall-fed      beef  de- 
beef  "—i  e.f  an  animal  that  was  kept  for  months    pendsupon 
in  the  barn  and  fed  largely  on  grain— was  consid-    a|nima?6 
ered  prime.     This  is  practically  true  now.     The    and  how  it 
flesh  is  made  rapidly,  and  is  shorter  grained  and     hafeaeen 
more  tender  than  the  grass-fed  animal;  yet  there 
can  be  no  doubt  but  that  a  combination  of  the  two  methods 
will  give  a  healthier  meat,  for  while  the  exercise  in  the  open 
air  tends  to  toughen  the  muscles,  it  also  makes  them  more 
healthy  and  of  a  finer  flavor.     It  is  true  of  all  animals  that 
little  exercise  and  generous  feeding  with  grain  produce 
tender  flesh,  which  grows  plump  in  cooking. 

Beef  should  hang  until  well  ripened— not  less  than  three 
weeks,  longer  when  possible. 


172  HOME  ECONOMICS 

Good  beef  will  be  firm,  fine-grained,  the  color  when  first 
cut  a  purplish  red,  but  on  exposure  to  the  air  for  a  few 

minutes  becoming  a  bright  red.     If  the  beef  is 

^of^oodT"    we^  riPene(*  ^  will  nave  a  moist,  juicy  appearance. 

beef.        When  first  killed,  the  tiny  globules  of  moisture 

are  absent  on  the  fresh-cut  surface.  The  fat 
should  be  a  light  straw-color;  the  kidney  suet  should  be 
white,  firm,  dry,  and  crumbly.  In  a  prime  animal  there  is  a 
generous  layer  of  fat  on  the  back,  shoulders,  and  sides,  and 
fine  particles  of  fat  distributed  through  the  muscles;  the 
bones  will  be  small  in  proportion  to  the  meat. 

The  fat  of  poor  beef  is  a  dark  yellow,  the  suet  oily,  tough, 
and  fibrous.     The  lean  is  coarse,  open-grained  and  flabby, 

and  often  quite  dark. 

dicationsof       The  beef  being  the  largest  animal  that  the 

poor  beef,     butcher  handles,  it  is  cut  into  more  joints  than  is 

How  the     the  carcass  of  any  other  animal.     It  is  first  split 

carcass  is     the  length  of  the  backbone  (spine),  thus  dividing 

the  carcass  into  two  parts.  These  are  divided 
into  hind  quarters  and  fore  quarters— the  loin,  rump,  round, 
leg,  and  flank  going  on  the  hind  quarter,  and  ribs,  shoulder, 
brisket,  cross-ribs,  etc.,  going  on  the  fore  quarter;  these 
quarters  are  again  subdivided. 

The  division  into  quarters  is  practically  the  same  all  over 
the  country,  but  the  subdivision  varies  in  different  sections. 
The  New  York  method  is  followed  nearly  all  over  the  coun- 
try, except  in  some  parts  of  New  England  and  Pennsylvania. 
When  once  the  anatomy  of  the  animal  and  the  muscular 
system  is  understood,  a  knowledge  of  the  various  cuts  and 
their  uses  may  be  acquired  readily. 

THE  MUSCULAR   SYSTEM 

The  skeleton  is  covered  with  a  thick  layer  of  muscular 
fibers;  this  is  known  as  lean  beef.    These  muscles  are  the 


MARKETING  173 

active  organs  of  movement.     There  is  not  a  movement  of 
the  body,  no  matter  how  slight,  that  does  not  require  the 
aid  of  one  or  more  sets  of  muscles.     The  more 
active  they  are,  the  more  freely  the  blood  flows   J^l0* 

*  *  exercise  on 

through  them,  and,  as  a  consequence,  they  are  muscle, 
healthier  than  when  not  exercised.  But  with 
exercise  they  become  firmer  and  harder.  This  is  seen, 
for  example,  in  the  beef.  The  legs,  sides,  shoulders,  and 
neck  are  exercised  more  than  the  back  and  the  tender- 
loin, and  are  therefore  tougher,  but  also  more  highly  fla- 
vored and  more  nutritious,  than  the  tender  and  less-exer- 
cised parts. 

A  knowledge  of  the  structure  of  the  muscular  fibers  will 
be  valuable  in  buying,  carving,  and  cooking  meats. 

These  muscles  are  composed  of  bundles  of  hundreds  of 
slender  threads,  called  fibrils,  held  together  by  connective 
tissue.  These  little  bundles  of  fibrils  are  massed  The  value 
together  to  form  ultimate  fibers.  The  ultimate  of  a  know- 
fibers  are  sheathed  by  connective  tissue.    Bundles    ]***£  of 

tne  struc- 
of  ultimate  fiber  are,  in  their  turn,  massed  to-      tureof 

gether  and  sheathed  in  connective  tissue  to  form    muscular 
fasciculi.     The  fasciculi  are  bound  together  to 
form  what  is  known  as  lean  meat  or  muscular  fiber.   It  will  be 
seen  from  the  foregoing  that  in  lean  meat  there  are  three 
sets  of  bundles,  each  set  sheathed  in  a  thin  membranous 
substance  called  connective  tissue. 

When  lean  meat  is  cooked  a  long  time  at  the  proper  tem- 
perature this  connective  tissue  is  gelatinized  and  holds  the 
lean  fibers  together  in  a  solid,  tender,  juicy  mass. 
If,  on  the  contrary,  the  meat  is  cooked  at  too    ^  JJ^^J 
high  a  temperature,  the  connective  tissue  will  be    degrees  of 
destroyed,  and  the  pieces  of  meat  will  separate      heat  °n 
into    long,    tough,    thread-like    fibers.      In    the        fiber. 
chapter  on  cooking  albuminous  substances  the 
principles  underlying  the  cooking  of  lean  meats  are  fully 


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MARKETING 


175 


Fig.  ii. 


Fig   12. 


treated.     No  woman  can  afford  to  be  ignorant  on  a  sub- 
ject on  which  depends  so  much  economy  or  waste. 

Below  are  cuts  of  muscular  fiber. 
Fig.  11  shows  the  arrangement  in  bun- 
dles; Fig.  12,  the  fiber  partially  separated 
into  fibrils;  Fig.  13,  the  fiber  cut  across 
the  grain. 

From  these  three  examples  one  can  see 
how  important  it  is  that  the  muscles 
should  be  cut  across  the  grain  instead  of 
the  length  of  the  fiber,  if  one  would  have 
tender  meat. 

We  will  begin  with  the  skeleton  of  an 
ox.  In  Fig.  10  (a\  a2,  a3,  a4,  a5,  a6,  a')  are 
the  vertebrae,  which  extend  from  the 
head  to  the  end  of  the  tail.  Examine  the  bones  of  the  spine 
in  each  section,  that  you  may  be  able  to  recognize  them  in 
the  cuts  of  meat  that  come  from  these  parts, 
always  remembering,  of  course,  that  each  bone  is  E^piana- 
split  into  two  parts,  and  that  you  find  but  one  Fig.  10. 
half  of  it  in  the  joint  of  meat.  (The  split  side  is 
shown  in  Fig.  17.)  a1  to  a2  is  that  part  of  the  spine  belong- 
ing to  Jbhe  neck.  Beginning  at  a2  and  going  back  to  a3  are 
found  the  joints  to  which  are  attached 
the  six  chuck  ribs.  The  projections  on 
these  joints  are  partially  hidden  by  the 
shoulder-blade,  but  they  are  quite  long. 
Beginning  at  the  point  a3  and  going  back 
to  a4  are  the  joints  to  which  the  seven  prime 
ribs  are  attached.  From  a4  to  a5  are  the 
joints  of  the  loin.  The  tenderloin  begins  in  a  small  point 
under  the  first  rib,  and  it  increases  in  thickness  as  it  runs 
back.  It  finally  terminates  in  an  obtuse  point  at  the  hip- 
bone. The  tenderloin  is  covered  with  a  thick  bed  of  suet. 
The  kidneys  are  embedded  in  this  at  the  end  near  the  ribs. 


Fig.  13. 


176  HOME  ECONOMICS 

(See  Fig.  17.)  It  is  from  this  section  that  the  sirloin  and 
porterhouse  roasts  or  steaks  are  cut. 

The  point  between  a5  and  a6  in  the  New  York  method  of 

cutting  is  left  on  the  sirloin,  while  in  Boston  and  Philadelphia 

it  is  left  on  the  rump.     In  New  York  this  cut  is 

New  York    called  the  thick  or  hip  sirloin,  the  hip-bone  being 

method  of    cut  at  the  line  a6  b.    This  portion  is  quite  as  often 

differsfrom   cut  into  steaks  as  roasts,  the  steak  taking  the 

Boston  and   name  of  the  cut  portion  of  the  hip-bone,  as  hip- 

Pphiael"    k°ne  steak,  flat-bone  steak,  and  round-bone  steak. 

(See  Figs.  20,  21,  22.) 

You  will  observe  the  position  of  the  thigh-bone  in  its  rela- 
tion to  the  hip-bone;  k  indicates  the  socket  in  the  hip-bone, 
and  I  the  ball  in  the  thigh-bone.  This  is  called  the  whirl- 
Wn  it  is  k°ne  by  butchers,  because  when  the  hind  quarter 
called  the    of  the  animal  is  hung  by  the  leg,  as  it  always  is, 

^irl"  this  bone  is  whirled  round,  bringing  the  leg  at  an 
angle  of  about  thirty  degrees  with  the  backbone, 
thus  changing  the  position  of  the  bones  and  muscles  of  the 
leg.  (Figs.  15  and  16  show  this  change.)  Seeing  this  change 
in  the  skeleton  and  muscles,  it  will  be  easy  to  understand 
how  and  why  the  hind  quarter  is  cut  in  a  certain  manner 
when  we  come  to  the  diagram  illustrating  methods  of  cut- 
ting beef.  (Fig.  18.)  If  the  carver  will  study  Figs.  15  and  16, 
he  will  learn  the  position  of  the  bones  and  direction  of  the 
muscles  in  the  leg  or  hind  quarter  of  mutton,  lamb,  veal, 
venison,  etc.,  and  will  then  know  how  to  carve  so  as  to  cut 
across  the  grain  of  the  muscular  fibers. 

The  triangular  section  at  a6  6,  a8  b,  which  takes  in  the 
greater  part  of  the  hip-bone,  a  small  piece  of  the  thigh-bone, 
and  a  portion  of  the  backbone,  is  called  the  aitchbone  in 
some  sections.  In  New  York  it  is  called  the  rump  piece, 
and  is  usually  divided  into  two  parts,  one  taking  in  the  back- 
bone and  the  other  the  hip-bone.  These  cuts  are  generally 
used  for  corned  beef. 


"2-3  a 

Ssoo 

sis- 


Ms  a 


Jo- 

»§s 

op  3 

w  o  3 
o  rrn 
2o  2. 


*I 


12 


178  HOME   ECONOMICS 

The  point  at  a1  is  where  the  aitchbone  is  divided  into  two 
parts.  The  thigh-bone  below  the  straight  line  belongs  to 
the  round. 

Observe  the  formation  of  the  shoulder-blade  at  c  and  d. 
The  upper  part  (c)  is  thick  cartilage,  which  touches  the 
seventh  rib;  therefore  it  does  not  lessen  the  value  of  this 
joint;  but  beginning  with  the  eighth  rib  there  is  both  bone 
and  cartilage.     Here  is  where  the  chuck  ribs  begin. 

A  cut  that  used  to  be  very  popular  for  a  cheap  roast, 
steaks,  pot-roast,  stewing,  etc.,  was  the  "cross-rib  piece," 
known  also  as  "shoulder  clod,"  "bowler  piece."  It  is  still 
cut  by  many  butchers.  Formerly  it  always  contained  the 
rib-bones,  but  it  is  now  more  usually  cut  without  the  bones, 
e,  e,  e,  e,  e,  indicate  the  position  of  this  cut; /and  g  are  the 
bones  included  in  a  shoulder  of  beef;  h,  the  sternum,  is  the 
bone  in  the  thick  end  of  the  brisket. 

Fig.  14  shows  a  beef  with  the  skin  and  fat  removed, 
leaving  bare  the  muscular  covering  of  the  skeleton.  This 
should  be  studied  carefully  by  the  marketer  and  the  carver. 

This  illustration  can  be  studied  for  the  position  and  direc- 
tion of  the  muscles  in  veal,  mutton,  lamb,  and  all  animals  of 
this  kind.  It  will  be  observed  that  the  arrange- 
muscies.0  men^  of  the  muscles  in  the  fore  quarter  is  much 
more  complicated  than  in  the  hind  quarter. 
There  are  more  bones  to  move  in  this  part;  hence  the 
greater  number  of  sets  of  muscles,  and  the  necessity  for 
their  going  in  many  directions.  Each  cluster  of  muscles 
is  finished  at  the  ends  with  a  smooth,  white,  tough  sub- 
stance, the  tendons,  by  which  they  are  attached  to  the 
bones.  The  tendons  become  gelatinous  on  being  subjected  to 
long,  slow  cooking.  They  are  what  make  the  drumsticks  of 
roast  poultry  and  the  knuckle  of  mutton  or  lamb,  when 
properly  cooked,  such  delicious,  succulent  morsels,  and 
when  cooked  at  too  high  a  temperature,  such  hard,  unsav- 
ory food. 


MARKETING 


179 


Study  this  cut  carefully,  observing  the  direction  in  which 
each  set  of  muscles  run.  Test  your  knowledge  of  the  skele- 
ton by  trying  to  locate  the  different  bones. 

Locate  the  different  cuts  by  the  description  of  Fig.  14. 

The  cuts  of  beef  may  be  divided  into  three  qualities: 

First  quality,  the  portions  suitable  for  roasting  or  broiling. 
These  are  taken  from  the  tenderest  part  of  the  animal,  and 
bring  the  highest  price. 

From  the  hind  quarter  are  taken  the  first,  second,  and 
third  cuts  of  sirloin,  often  called  porterhouse  (see  Figs.  10, 


Fig.  15  shows  changed  position  of  thigh-bone 
when  the  hind  quarter  of  the  animal  is  hung ; 
i,  the  point  where  loin  is  separated  from  hip  sir- 
loin ;  k,  socket ;  /,  ball. 


Fig.  16  shows  changed  position  of  muscles 
when  hind  quarter  is  hung  ;  i  is  the  point  where 
the  loin  is  separated  from  the  hip  sirloin. 


14,  17,  18,  a4  to  a5);  or  this  section  is  cut  up  into  steaks, 
which  are  variously  called  sirloin  or  porterhouse  steaks. 
When  there  is  a  large  piece  of  tenderloin  in  the  portions 
steak,  it  is  called  a  large  porterhouse;  and  when 
the  steak  is  cut  from  the  small  end  of  the  loin, 
where  there  is  only  a  very  little  tenderloin,  it  is 
called  short  steak,  or  Delmonico  steak.  (See  Fig.  23.) 
Hip  or  thick  sirloin,  known  in  Boston  and  Philadelphia  as 
irump  (see  Figs.  10,  14,  18,  a5  to  a6),  is  cut  for  roasts  and 
steaks. 


taken  from 
the  hind 
quarter. 


180  HOME  ECONOMICS 

As  cut  in  New  York,  and  wherever  the  New  York  method 
is  followed,  these  roasts  and  steaks  contain  both  tender  and 
tough  portions.  This  is  particularly  true  in  the  case  of  the 
steaks,  some  butchers  cutting  the  whole  length,  from  the 
backbone  to  the  end  of  the  thigh-bone.  (See  Fig.  18,  a8 
and  b.) 

Between  a?  and  a4,  Fig.  18,  are  the  seven  prime  ribs,  the 

first  three  called  the  first  cut  of  the  ribs;  but  for  a  small 

-,.    ,  family  two  make  a  better-sized  roast.     One  should 

Tne  larger  J  .         ,,  . 

the  roast     never  attempt  to  roast  a  thinner  piece  than  this, 

the  better  no  matter  how  small  the  family.  In  beef  the 
larger  the  roast,  the  more  satisfactory  the  result. 

Second  quality.  The  pieces  included  in  this  grade  are 
often  used  for  roasting  and  broiling,  also  for  braizing,  stew- 
ing, pot-roasts,  etc. 

The  best  part  of  the  top  of  the  round  (g,  g,  Fig.  17)  is  often 
used  for  steaks,  roasts,  pot-pie,  boiled,  braized,  or  alamode 
beef.  From  a  prime  animal  this  is  a  most  satisfactory  piece. 
There  is  little,  if  any,  bone  (some  butchers  remove  the  thigh- 
bone, while  others  leave  it  in  the  round),  and  only  a  desirable 
quantity  of  fat. 

The  eighth  and  ninth  ribs,  first  cut  of  the  chuck,  make  a 
fair  roast;  the  shoulder-blade  should  be  removed  and  the 
piece  be  firmly  skewered.  The  tenth  and  eleventh  ribs  are 
often  boned,  and  sold  as  rib  or  chuck  steaks,  or  are  rolled, 
and  sold  as  rolled  ribs  for  roasting,  braizing,  or  pot-roasts. 
Even  the  twelfth  and  thirteenth  ribs  are  treated  in  this 
manner  in  some  markets.  Sometimes  these  last  two  ribs 
and  part  of  the  neck  are  used  for  Hamburg  steaks. 

The  tougher  ribs  (ten,  eleven,  twelve,  and  thirteen)  may 
be  used  for  braizing  or  pot-roasts. 

The  cross-rib  piece  makes  a  good  economical  roast  or 
steaks.  By  consulting  Figs.  14  and  18  it  will  be  seen  that 
the  muscles  of  this  piece  all  run  in  one  general  direction. 
It  is  an  economical  cut,  being  solid  meat. 


MARKETING 


181 


Third  quality.  The  cuts 
belonging  to  this  class  are 
all  much  tougher  than  the 
foregoing,  and  require 
long,  slow  cooking.  The 
rump  piece  (Fig.  14,  a6  to 
a8)  is  generally  corned 
where  the  New  York 
method  of  cutting  is  em- 
ployed. It  is  cut  in  two 
parts,  horizontal  with  the 
backbone,  thus  taking  in 
the  thick  part  of  the  hip- 
bone in  one  piece,  and  the 
backbone  in  the  other 
piece;  the  latter  piece  is 
the  better  of  the  two.  By 
the  Boston  and  Philadel- 
phia methods  of  cutting, 
a  portion  of  this  cut  goes 
on  the  part  known  as  the 
back  of  the  rump,  and 
is  used  for  roasts  and 
steaks. 

The  flank  and  leg  are 
used  for  stewing,  braiz- 
ing, soups,  etc.  The  flank 
has  no  bone;  the  muscles 
are  coarse,  loose,  and 
tough;  but  this  piece  of 
meat  is  very  juicy  and  has 
a  fine  flavor.  It  is  excel- 
lent for  beef -tea;  rolled 
and  stewed  or  braized,  it 

„nl..n      _       ~n.nA      A\n\n.      A^  top  of  round;  p-.p",  best  "part  of  round;  A,  sternum  ;  *',t, 
makeS     a      gOOd      dish     tO  thick  end  of  brisket  ;/,  /thin  end  of  brisket  ;*,*,  flank. 


Fig.  17.    Side  of  Beef—  Inside. 
a,  spinal  column  ;  b,  b,  suet ;  c,  kidney  ;  d,  thin  end 
of  tenderloin  ;  e,e,  thick  part  of  tenderloin  ;  /,/,  inside  or 


182 


HOME  ECONOMICS 


serve  hot  or  cold. 
This  piece  is  some- 
times corned,  which 
is  a  great  pity,  for 
the  lean  meat  is  not 
well  protected  by 
fat  or  bone,  and 
consequently  all  the 
fine  juices  are  drawn 
out  into  the  brine. 

Inside  the  ribs 
there  is  a  thin  piece 
of  muscle  called  the 
skirt  It  is  some- 
times used  for 
steaks  and  some- 
times for  rolling 
and  stewing. 

The  plate  piece  or 
rattle-ran  takes  in 
the  lower  part  of 
the  ribs,  and  is 
nearly  always  used 
for  corning.  It  is 
especially  good  for 
this  purpose,  be- 
cause the  lean  meat 
is  well  protected 
with  fat.  Many 
people,  however,  ob- 
ject to  it  on  account 
of  the  bones.  When 

Fig.  18.    Side  of  Beef- New  York  Method  of  Cutting.  this    piece    Of    meat 

a,  neck  ;  «2  to  a3,  six  chuck  ribs ;  a3  to  ai,  seven  prime  ribs ;  a4  to   .  -.  1       J 

aS,  porterhouse  roasts  or  steaks  ;  aS  to  a6,  thick  or  hip  sirloin  ;  a6  to  IS    UrOperly    COOKeQ 
al,  tail  end  of  rump  ;  at  to  a8,  top  of  rump  ;  aS  to  a9,  round ;  aio,  leg  ;  r       r         * 

d.  top  of  sirloin;  c,  flank;  d,  plate  piece;  e,  navel ,/,/,  brisket;  g,  faQ  bOUCS  aredraWn 
shoulder;  h,  cross-rib;  *,  shin. 


MARKETING  183 

out  and  the  hot  meat  placed  under  weights.  When  cold 
it  cuts  as  smoothly  as  a  piece  of  cheese,  each  slice  consisting 
of  alternate  layers  of  fat  and  lean.  When  corned  beef  is 
to  be  served  hot,  the  brisket  or  rump  is  a  better  piece  than 
the  plate  piece. 

The  navel  piece  is  cut  from  the  bottom  of  the  ribs,  and  has 
only  a  small  portion  of  bone  at  one  end.  This  is  used  for 
corning,  stewing,  and  for  soups. 

The  brisket  takes  in  the  ends  of  the  last  six  ribs  and  the 
sternum.  There  is  a  difference  of  opinion  as  to  choice  in 
the  thick  end  or  the  thin  end  of  the  brisket.  The  thick  end 
is  the  part  in  front  of  the  shoulder. 

The  shoulder  is  that  part  which  is  included  in  the  bones 
/,  g,  Fig.  10.     It  is  separated  from  the  ribs  and  sternum. 

By  examining  Fig.  14  it  will  be  seen  that  the  muscles  in 
this  cut  do  not  run  in  one  general  direction,  and  that  there 
must  be  many  tendons  in  it;  therefore  it  should  be  cooked 
slowly  and  for  a  long  time.  This  cut  is  good  for  pot-roast, 
stewing,  braizing,  Hamburg  steaks,  etc. 

The  leg  and  shin  of  beef  are  full  of  tendons,  and  are  more 
suitable  for  soups  than  for  anything  else.  The  long,  slow 
cooking  in  water  dissolves  the  gelatin,  which  gives  a  con- 
sistency and  flavor  to  the  soup. 

The  various  kinds  of  steak  cut  from  beef  are: 
Short  or  Delmonico  steak. 
Porterhouse,  large  and  small. 

(  Hiprbone  steak. 
Sirloin  j  Flat-bone  steak. 

'  Round-bone  steak= 
Round  steak. 
Rib  steak. 
Entre-cote  steak. 
Cross-rib  steak. 

4 

Shoulder  steak. 
Hamburg  steak. 


184 


HOME  ECONOMICS 


As  has  been  stated,  the  New  York  sirloin  comes  from  that 
part  of  the  animal  which  includes  the  fore  part  of  the  hip- 
bone.   In  my  lectures  on  marketing  I  have  found 
lo^Tteaks    tnat  tne  ^ivision  °*  niP"bone,  flat-bone,  and  round- 
are  cut.      bone  steaks  was  rather  difficult  for  the  average 
housekeeper  to  understand.     To  make  this  per- 
fectly clear  I  have  had  a  drawing  made  of  the  hip-bone,  show- 
ing the  way  this  bone  is  cut  in  each  group  of  steaks  (Fig.  19). 
When  these  steaks  are  cut  long,  i.  e., 
down  the  length  of  the  thigh-bone,  the 
lower  part  takes  a  portion  of  the  "top 
of  the  sirloin,"  although  why  that  piece 
should  be  called  top  when  it  is  the  bot- 
tom, or  sirloin  when  it  is  a  part  of  the 
round,  is  incomprehensible. 

Fig.  20  shows  hip-bone  steak;  Fig.  21, 
flat-bone  steak;  Fig. 22,  round-bone  steak. 
Compare  the  bones  in  these  steaks  with 
the  divisions  of  that  part  of  the  hip-bone 
which  enters  into  them. 

Fig.  23  shows  short  or  Delmonico 
steak.  Examine  Fig.  10  at  a4,  where  the 
ribs  and  the  porterhouse  are  divided,  and  you  will  see  the  rea- 
son for  the  name  "  short  steak."  It  is  not  possible  to  cut  a 
long  piece  of  flank  on  this  steak, 
the  flank  has  been  re- 
moved. The  name 
"  Delmonico  "  is  de- 
rived from  the  custom 
of  this  house  of  remov- 
ing the  entire  tender- 
loin from  the  whole 
porterhouse  cut,  then 

serving  the  top  as  small  steaks,  the  tenderloin  being  removed 
for  large  fillets  or  tenderloin  steaks. 


Fig.  19.  Showing  Method  of 
Cutting  Sirloin  Steaks. 
a,  three  round-bone  steaks  — 
the  poorest;  *,  three  flat-bone 
steaks — better  than  round-bone; 
c,  three  hip-bone  steaks  —  the 
best  —  has  large  tenderloin. 


In  the  cut  given  some  of 


Fig.  20.    Hip-bone  steak. 


MARKETING 


185 


Fig.  21.    Flat -bone  steak. 


The  entre-cote  steak  (between  the  ribs)  is  a  prime  rib 
roast  cut  into  steaks.  The  ribs  are  removed,  but  the  piece 
of  backbone  is  left  on. 
This  steak  is  not  much 
used  in  this  country. 
The  fillet  of  beef  is 
the  tenderloin.  When 
this  is  taken  from  a 
prime  beef  it  brings  a 
very  high  price,  often 
a  dollar  a  pound.  A  great  many  fillets  are  sent  from  the 
West,  and  they  sell  at  a  much  lower  price.  They  are  usually 
taken  from  inferior  animals  that  have  been  slaughtered  for 

canning,  making  beef  ex- 
tracts, soups,  etc.  This 
piece  of  meat  is  so  pro- 
tected in  the  body  of  the 
animal  that  it  has  but 
little  exercise;  therefore 
it  is  tender,  but  without 
much  flavor  or  nutrition. 
The  muscles  on  the  out- 
side of  the  backbone  (Fig.  18,  a4  to  a5)  are  finer  and  firmer, 
of  better  flavor,  and  more  nutritious.  This  part,  j^  differ_ 
when  taken  from  the  bones  in  a  solid  piece,  is  often 
used  instead  of  the  tenderloin.  It  is  called  in 
France  the  false  fillet;  it  is  much  lower  priced 
than  the  real  fillet. 

Corned  Meat— At  the  best,  corned  lean  meat  can  have 
but  little  of  its  natural 
salts  and  juices  left  in 
it,  as  the  salt  draws 
these  out.  The  better 
the  lean  is  protected  by 
fat  and  bone,  the  juicier 

Fig.  23.    Short  or  "  Delmonico  "  steak. 


Fig.  22.    Round-bone  steak. 


ence  be- 
tween the 
false  fillet 

and  the 
real  fillet. 


186  HOME   ECONOMICS 

and  finer  flavored  will  be  the  beef.     Always  aim  to  pur- 
chase a  piece  of  corned  beef  that  has  a  good  layer  of  fat. 
Housekeepers  often  have  a  decided  choice  as  to 
must  not     the  cut  of  corned  beef  that  they  will  use.     The 
cook  rap-     thick  end  of  the  brisket,  the  rump  piece,  and  the 
y*        plate  will  all,  if  from  a  good  animal,  be  satisfac- 
tory, provided  they  are  cooked  five  hours,  with  the  water  just 
bubbling  at  one  side  of  the  kettle.     Take  the  finest  quality 
of  corned  beef  in  the  world,  and  let  it  boil  rapidly,  and  you 
will  have  a  piece  of  meat  that  will  break  under  the  carving- 
knife  into  a  bundle  of  hard,  dry,  uneatable  threads. 

Veal.— The  best  veal  is  that  fed  wholly  on  milk;  next  comes 
that  fed  on  milk  and  meal ;  the  poorest  is  that  which  has  been 
grass-fed.     The  best  age  for  veal  is  when  the  calf 
feeding.      *s  between  six  and  ten  weeks  old.     The  flesh  of  a 
well-fed  milk  calf  will  be  fine-grained,  tender,  and 
white,  with  just  a  suggestion  of  pink.   The  fat  will  be  firm  and 
white,  and  there  will  be  a  generous  supply  of  it  round  the  kid- 
neys and  on  the  legs.   Calves  that  are  fed  on  part  milk  and  part 
meal  are  nearly  as  good  as  the  milk-fed,  provided  the  feeding 
is  done  carefully.    The  grass-fed  calf  gives  a  very  poor  veal, 
lean,  dry,  and  dark;  still  it  is  not  unsanitary.     The  veal  that 
comes  from  a  calf  that  has  been  killed  too  soon— between 
two  and  four  weeks— will  be  soft,  flabby,  and  of  a  bluish 
tinge.     There  should  be  no  sale  for  such  meat,  for  it  is  both 
innutritious  and  unhealthful. 

Veal  is  not  highly  estimated  in  this  country,  and  since 
creameries,  condensing  factories,  and  cheese  factories  are 
planted  in  every  good  grazing  section  of  the  country,  the 
farmers  find  it  more  profitable  to  sell  their  milk,  and  destroy 
the  calves  when  they  are  only  a  few  days  old.  In  Fran.ce, 
where  veal  is  valued  highly,  the  greatest  care  is  taken  to 
have  it  in  perfection.  The  prime  veal  is  raised  in  the  follow- 
ing manner.  The  calf  is  given  all  the  milk  it  can  take,  first 
from  the  mother,  and  as  it  grows  older  it  has  the  milk  of  a 


MARKETING  187 

second  cow  also.  When  the  veal  is  to  be  particularly  fine, 
eggs  are  fed  to  the  calf  the  last  two  or  three  weeks  of  its 
fattening.  They  begin  with  one  or  two  eggs,  then  increase 
the  number  from  day  to  day  until  they  use  six  or  eight  a  day. 
The  calf's  mouth  is  opened,  and  the  whole  egg,  shell  and  all, 
is  dropped  in ;  the  closing  of  the  mouth  crushes  the  egg,  and 
it  is  swallowed.  When  calves  are  fed  partially  on  milk  and 
partially  on  meal,  and  the  eggs  are  added,  the  veal  is  almost 
as  fine  as  that  of  the  milk-fed  calves.  Nowhere  else  in  the 
world  does  one  find  such  veal  as  is  found  in  France,  and 
no  one  complains  of  its  disagreeing  with  them.  All  the 
French  veal,  however,  is  not  thus  carefully  fattened;  but 
where  the  best  is  so  fine  it  is  difficult  to  sell  a  very  inferior 
article. 

The  calf  is  divided  into  leg,  loin,  breast,  shoulder,  neck, 
flank,  head,  and  feet.     The  leg  is  the  most  valu- 
able part  of  the  animal.     It  is  cut  into  slices  for     H°Tf *he 
cutlets,  into  one  solid  round  piece  for  fillet;  the      divided, 
thick,  tender  part  is  cut  into  one  large,  well- 
shaped  piece  for  fricandeau;  a  portion  of  the  leg  is  some- 
times boned  and  roasted.     There  is  no  waste  in  these  cuts. 

The  lower  part  of  the  leg  is  very  gelatinous,  and  is  used 
for  soups;  it  is  called  a  knuckle  of  veal. 

Next  in  value  to  the  leg  is  the  loin;  this  cut  includes  what 
is  known  in  beef  as  the  porterhouse,  sirloin,  and  rump,  and 
is  divided  into  roasts  and  chops.  The  neck  comprises  the 
thirteen  ribs,  which  are  roasted  or  used  as  cutlets. 

The  shoulder  is  roasted  or  braized.  The  breast  is  roasted, 
stewed,  broiled,  etc. 

Mutton.— Good  mutton,  properly  cooked,  is  one  of  the 
most  nutritious  and  easily  digested  animal  foods.  Because 
of  the  indifferent  quality  and  improper  cooking  of  a  great 
deal  of  this  valuable  food,  many  people  in  this  country  have 
a  strong  prejudice  against  it.  But  if  the  animal  is  properly 
ied  and  dressed,  and  the  cook  does  her  duty,  no  meat  can  be 


188  HOME  ECONOMICS 

more  savory  and  appetizing  than  a  roast,  boiled,  or  broiled 
piece  of  mutton. 

Mutton  is  best  when  the  sheep  is  between  the  age  of  three 

and  five  years.     When  the  animal  is  between  one  and  two 

years  old  it  is  variously  termed  mutton,  lamb,  or 

indications    yearling,  as  happens  to  be  the  local  custom. 

mutton.  Sheep  that  have  been  pastured  on  hilly  land, 

where  sweet  herbs  are  found,  have  a  peculiarly 

fine  flavor.    The  bones  should  be  small;  the  lean  fine-grained, 

a  rich  red,  and  juicy;  the  fat  firm  and  white.    A  lean  animal 

does  not  produce  good  meat.     There  should  be  a 

muatbe     tnic^  layer  of  fat  on  the  back  and  the  thick  part 

thoroughly   of  the  legs.     The  neck  and  shoulders  are  always 

IS^d!0    fat-     Mutton> like  beef>  sh(mld  hang  long  enough 
to  be  thoroughly  ripened.     In  winter  this  can  be 
from  three  to  six  weeks;  in  summer,  except  in  cold  storage, 
it  is  not  possible  to  keep  it  so  long. 

The  various  cuts  of  mutton  are  the  leg,  loin,  shoulder, 
neck,  breast,  flank.  When  the  leg  and  loin  make  one  joint 
it  is  called  a  haunch  of  mutton.  When  the  two  loins  are 
left  together  the  joint  is  called  a  saddle. 

Butchers  cut  long  and  short  saddles.    When 

Tutsof      *ne  rumP  an(*  a  smaU  piece  of  the  tail  are  left 

mutton,      on  the   loins  it  is  called  a  long  saddle.     (See 

Fig.  29.)     When  only  the  loins  constitute  the 

piece,  it  is  a  short  saddle. 

Sometimes  the  ribs  and  loin  are  left  in  one  piece;  it  is  then 
called  the  rack.  As  a  rule  the  first  eight  ribs  and  the  loin 
are  cut  into  chops.  When  the  thin  bones  of  the  rib  chops 
are  trimmed  they  are  then  called  French  chops.  These 
chops  are  a  delicate,  appetizing  dish,  but  expensive,  as  the 
proportion  of  lean  meat  to  fat  and  bone  is  so  small.  The 
loin  chops  are  what  in  the  beef  would  be  called  porterhouse 
or  sirloin  steaks.  They  are  more  profitable  to  buy  than  the 
rib  chops.     The  chuck  ribs  are  sometimes  cut  into  chops  and 


MARKETING 


189 


the  shoulder-blade 
removed.  These 
chops  have  a  good 
deal  of  meat  on 
them,  but  it  is  too 
tough  for  broiling, 
except  in  the  case 
of  a  very  tender  an- 
imal. 

The  end  of  the 
neck  near  the  head 
is  in  almostconstant 
motion  in  the  living 
animal ;  therefore  it 
is  tough,  but  rich  in 
flavor  and  nutrition. 
It  is  the  most  desir- 
able part  for  mak- 
ing broths,  particu- 
larly for  the  sick. 

If  the  family  is 
large,  the  leg  is  the 
most  economical 
cut  to  buy;  it  costs 
more  per  pound 
than  any  other 
part,  but  there  is 
very  little  waste  in 
it.  The  fore  quar- 
ter, with  the  shoul- 
der-blade removed, 
makes  a  good  cheap 


Side  of  Mutton. 


roast  for  a  large 

iamiiy.  1  ne  SnOUi-  from  the  carcass>  the  dotted  line  from  b to  rfis  followed,  giving  a 
fW  TYlfllfPCj  3  P>lPJm  sma,U  leg*  «.  l?in;  y;  ribs;  jr.shoulder;  A,  A.  *.  breast.  This  in- 
UCI    IXldJYcb   <J.   Cllcdp  eludes  the  portion  under  the  shoulder,    i,  scrag  end  of  the  neck. 


,  c ,  leg  of  mutton  as  usually  cut.    a  to  b  is  the  rump,  and  con- 

f  amilv       The  ShOUl-  ta'ns  tne  backbone  and  the  hip-bone. 


When  a  long  saddle  is  cut 


190  HOME  ECONOMICS 

small  roast.  The  ribs  and  loin  make  good  small  roasts.  The 
shoulder,  breast,  and  best  part  of  the  neck  are  often  used 
for  roasts.  They  make  excellent  stews,  pot-pies,  etc.  The 
fore  quarter  or  the  shoulder  alone  are  sometimes  corned. 
They  are  boiled  and  served  like  corned  beef. 
For  a  large  The  leg  is  sometimes  cut  into  thick  slices,  which 
family  it  is  are  sold  as  cutlets.  If  the  family  is  of  good  size, 
Chbuy  the*  **  is  cheaper  to  buy  a  whole  leg  and  have  the  num- 
whole  leg    ber  of  cutlets  you  wish  taken  off.     Keep  the  bal- 

imdha^xt    ance  of  the  le&  for  a  feW  dayS  and  USe  [t  f0r  P0t" 

cut  as  you    pie,  haricot,  or  Irish  stew,  or  it  may  be  roasted,  if 
wish<       the  piece  is  large  enough. 

Lamb.— Until  the  young  of  the  sheep  is  a  year  old  it  is: 

called  lamb.     Spring  lamb  is  from  six  weeks  to  seven  or 

The  best     e*ght  months  old.    The  best  is  between  three  and 

age  for      five  months  old.     The  very  young  lamb  is  neither 

spring       fine-flavored  nor  nutritious,  and  that  which  is  older 

than  five  or  six  months  has  no  longer  the  delicate 

flavor  and  texture  which  should  characterize  spring  lamb. 

The  lamb  that  is  in  the  market  in  January,  February,  and 

March  is  valued  for  its  rarity  rather  than  quality,  and  is 

so  expensive  that  it  is  found  only  on  the  tables  of  the 

wealthy. 

Young  lamb  is  divided  into  hind  quarter  and  fore  quarter; 
as  it  grows  older  it  is  divided  like  mutton.     The  lean  of  the 
How  the     lamD  should  be  pink,  and  the  fat  white  and  deli- 
lamb  is      cate.     It  spoils  quickly,  and  should  be  hung  only 
****-      a  few  days. 

Pork.— The  flesh  of  the  hog  is  variously  esteemed.  The 
very  fat  portions  are  always  salted,  while  the  lean,  except 
the  leg  and  shoulder,  is  generally  sold  fresh.  The  ribs  and 
loin  are  the  most  desirable  parts  for  roasting  and  chops. 
When  the  animal  is  very  large  and  fat  the  thick  layer  of  fat 
is  taken  from  the  ribs  and  loin  and  is  used  for  salting;  this 
leaves  the  loin  and  ribs  thin  and  comparatively  lean,  a  most 


MARKETING,  191 

desirable  condition.  The  shoulder  is  sometimes  used  fresh 
for  roasting  or  boiling.  It  is  not  a  desirable  joint  for  this 
purpose,  except  in  very  large  families. 

Pork,  whether  fresh  or  salted,  should  be  above  suspicion. 
In  fresh  meat  the  fat  should  be  firm,  clear,  and  white,  and 
the  lean  pink.  In  the  salted  meat  the  fat  is  some-  porknm8t 
times  a  delicate  pink;  this  is  an  indication  of  be  above 
sweet,  healthy  pork,  but  it  is  more  usual  to  find  suspicion, 
it  without  color.  be  thor- 

Diseased  or  measly  pork  has  a  dull  appearance      JJJjfijJf 
and  yellowish  lumps  through  the  fat  and  lean. 
Such  pork  should  not  be  sold.     If  there  were  no  purchasers 
it  would  not  be  found  in  the  market. 

Great  care  should  be  exercised  in  purchasing  all  kinds  of 
meat,  but  pork  more  than  the  meat  of  any  other  animal  must 
be  in  a  healthy  condition,  and  under  no  circumstances  should 
it  be  eaten  unless  thoroughly  cooked. 

SOME   CHARACTERISTICS   OF    THE   MUSCULAR 
FLESH   OF   ANIMALS 

The  flesh  of  the  mature  animal  is  improved  by  hanging  for 
a  long  time  in  a  low,  dry  temperature.  It  is  more  nutritious, 
more  highly  flavored,  and  more  digestible  than  that  of  the 
immature  animal,  the  flesh  of  which  is  watery  and  gelatinous, 
and  spoils  quickly.  Consequently  in  making  broths  for  the 
sick  this  fact  should  be  kept  in  mind,  and  the  well-exercised 
muscles  of  the  mature  animal  should  be  used  for  this  pur- 
pose. Nearly  all  the  immature  animals  are  in  market 
through  the  spring  and  summer,  and  to  some  extent  in  the 
fall;  but  there  is  little  of  this  kind  of  meat  to  be  found  on 
sale  in  the  winter. 

Rigor  Mortis.— After  the  death  of  an  animal  the  muscles 
become  rigid.  Sometimes  this  occurs  very  quickly,  and, 
again,  it  may  be  hours  before  this  state  is  developed.     This 


192  HOME   ECONOMICS 

stiffening  of  the  muscles  is  supposed  to  be  due  to  the  sepa- 
ration and  coagulation  of  the  albuminoid  substance  in  the 
fluid  of  the  muscles.  After  a  time  (sometimes  many  days, 
and,  again,  in  a  few  hours)  the  muscles  relax,  some  change 
taking  place  in  the  albuminoid. 

Meat  will  not  be  tender  and  juicy  if  cooked  while  the 
muscles  are  rigid.     It  may  be  cooked  before  rigor  mortis 
Meat  will    occurs>  °ut  this  is  not  often  done,  for  two  reasons: 
not  be  ten-    first,  it  is  rarely  convenient  to  cook  an  animal  as 
de^^       soon  as  killed;  and,  second,  there  is  a  more  de- 
while       cided  animal  flavor,  which  is  not  agreeable  to  the 
muscles      majority  of  people.    The  drier  and  cooler  (but  al- 
ways above  the  freezing-point)  meat  can  be  kept 
while  ripening,  the  better.     Meat  spoils  rapidly  in  a  humid 
atmosphere. 

Effect  of  Freezing.— In  meat,  as  in  all  substances,  the 
tendency  of  freezing  is  to  separate  the  liquid  from  the  more 
solid  parts.  Meat  (cooked  or  uncooked)  that  has  been  frozen 
is  never  so  juicy  as  it  would  be  if  it  had  not  been  frozen;  after 
being  in  that  state  and  then  thawed,  it  should  be  cooked  as 
soon  as  possible,  as  it  will  not  keep  well. 


THE  MINOR   PARTS   OF  THE   ANIMAL 

There  are  portions  of  the  animal  which  are  variously 
esteemed.  In  the  city  markets  one  finds  almost  every  part 
and  organ  of  the  animal  on  sale.  In  some  country  places  the 
butchers  do  not  take  the  trouble  to  dress  the  head,  feet,  or 
any  of  the  internal  organs,  except  the  liver;  but  in  the  hog 
the  head  and  feet  are  generally  dressed  and  sold. 

The  feet  of  sheep,  calves,  and  hogs  are  cleaned,  boiled,  and 
pickled,  or  they  are  used  in  stews,  or  fried  in  crumbs  after 

Feet.       having  been  boiled.     Calves'  feet  are  also  used  in 

soups  and  jellies;  these  and  pigs'  feet  are  most 

highly  prized.     The  feet  of  all  animals  are  very  gelatinous. 


MARKETING  193 

On  the  continent  of  Europe  they  use  the  feet  of  poultry  in 
soups  and  ragouts.  They  are  sold  in  the  market  like  the  feet 
of  butchers'  meat;  they  are  a  desirable  addition  to  a  stock, 
giving  it  extra  body. 

Calves'  and  pigs'  heads  are   more  desirable  than  any 
others;  they  are  found  in  the  markets,  thoroughly       H    , 
cleaned.  Sometimes  half  a  head  can  be  purchased. 

The  liver  of  all  the  animals  is  sold  as  food.     Calves'  liver 
is  the  best;  it  is  usually  light  and  clear  in  color       j. 
and  tender  in  texture.     Beeves'  liver  is  dark  and 
often  hard  or  tough.   Pigs'  liver  is,  by  many  people,  preferred 
to  beeves'  liver. 

The  liver  is  the  largest  gland  in  the  animal.     Physiologists 
are  still  in  doubt  as  to  what  all  its  functions  are,  but  it  is 
agreed  that  one  of  its  offices  is  to  maintain  the     The  j.yer 
uniform  composition  of  the  blood.     It  is  one  of       should 
the  organs  that  is  frequently  diseased;  therefore    £?***$? 
it  should  never  be  used  without  being  first  thor-     examined 
oughly  examined.     If  the  texture  is  clear  and       before 
smooth  one  can  be  reasonably  certain  that  it  is  in  a 
healthy  condition.     If,  on  the  contrary,  there  are  streaks  or 
spots  in  it,  it  must  be  discarded.     These  indications  hold 
true  also  in  the  case  of  the  livers  of  poultry  or  birds. 

Kidneys.— Veal,  lamb,  mutton,  and  beef  kidneys  are  all 
used  as  food;  they,  like  the  liver,  should  be  examined  care- 
fully. Good  healthy  kidneys  will  have  a  clear,  bright  color; 
if  diseased  they  will  be  cloudy  and  contain  spots. 

Hearts.— The  hearts  of  animals,  when  cooked  with  care, 
make  a  cheap,  nutritious  dish.  They  may  be  stewed,  baked, 
or  braized. 

Tongues.— The  tongues  of  all  animals  are  used  for  food. 
They  should  be  firm  and  plump;  when  lean  and  flabby  they 
will  not  make  a  tender  dish. 

Tripe.— The  stomach  of  the  ox  furnishes  tripe.  The 
butcher  sells  it  cleaned  and  boiled.     It  should  be  plump, 

13 


194  HOME   ECONOMICS 

white,  and  tender;  when  thin  and  dark  it  comes  from  an 
animal  that  was  not  in  good  condition,  and  will  be  tough 
and  unsatisfactory,  even  if  it  should  be  in  a  healthy  condi- 
tion, which  is  doubtful. 

Sweetbreads.— The  thymus  and  pancreatic  glands  of  the 
young  calf  and  lamb  are  sold  in  the  city  markets  as  sweet- 
breads. Formerly  only  the  heart  sweetbread  (pan- 
pends  an"  creas)  was  sold,  the  thymus  being  left  in  the 
food  and  neck.  The  demand  for  these  glands  is  now  so 
animal.  &reat  tnat  tne  two  are  left  together  and  sold  as 
a  pair.  They  vary  greatly  both  as  to  size  and 
quality,  depending  upon  the  age,  food,  and  condition  of  the 
animal.  For  this  reason  it  would  seem  more  just  to  sell 
them  by  the  pound  (as  is  done  sometimes)  rather  than  by  the 
pair.  When  the  sweetbreads  are  taken  from  an  animal  that 
has  been  fed  wholly  and  generously  on  sweet  milk  they  are 
plump,  white,  compact,  and  firm.  If  the  animal  was  not 
properly  fed,  or  was  pastured,  they  will  be  dark,  flabby,  and 
tough. 

These  glands  are  rarely  taken  from  any  but  the  young 
calf  or  lamb,  and,  as  a  rule,  the  thymus  gland  has  either 
been  absorbed  or  changed  to  a  fatty  or  fibrous  substance  at 
the  end  of  the  first  year  of  the  life  of  the  animal.  The  pan- 
creas becomes  tougher  and  darker,  but  it  is  never  changed 
or  eliminated,  as  is  the  thymus  gland.  It  is  not,  however, 
an  unusual  thing  to  find  these  glands  in  a  steer  three  or  four 
years  old  in  such  fine  condition  that  they  make  a  very  good 
dish. 

Sweetbreads  spoil  quickly;  therefore  they  should  not  be 
kept  many  days,  unless  it  be  in  cold  storage.  The  fine  ones 
are  often  frozen  for  use  in  winter,  when  veal  is  scarce. 

The  brains,  palates,  eyes,  marrow-bones,  lungs,  etc.,  are 
all  employed  as  food.  The  brains  of  the  calf,  sheep,  and 
lamb  are  the  best.  The  marrow-bones  from  beef  are  those 
usually  employed. 


MARKETING  195 


GAME  AND  POULTRY 


Under  the  head  of  game  is  comprehended  venison  (the 
meat  of  the  deer),  bear-meat,  rabbits,  squirrels,  many 
varieties  of  duck,  partridge,  grouse,  ptarmigan,  quail, 
woodcock,  wild  pigeons,  and  a  great  many  small  birds. 

The  venison  is  cut  very  much  like  mutton.     It  should 
hang  long  enough  to  get  thoroughly  ripened— three  weeks 
or  more.   Venison  to  be  good  must  be  fat;  the  lean     Ye^Bxm. 
is  much  darker  than  that  of  beef,  and  the  fat 
whiter.     This  is  one  of  the  meats  that  must  be  served  rare 
and  hot,  if  you  would  have  it  in  perfection. 

Game  birds  do  not  have  the  feathers  removed  until  they 
are  to  be  used.  Let  the  butcher  have  this  done  before  send- 
ing them  to  you.  Be  sure  that  the  skin  is  not  Gamel)ird8t 
torn  off,  as  it  is  very  necessary  in  cooking  birds. 

Rabbits  and  squirrels  should  not  be  skinned  until  they  are 
to  be  used;  like  birds,  they  dry  if  their  natural  covering  is 
removed  any  length  of  time  before  cooking.  Rab-  Rabbits 
bit-meat  is  white,  delicate,  and  savory  when  young,  and 
but  dark  and  tough  when  old.  The  claws  are  rough  ^i1111™18- 
and  long  in  old  rabbits;  when  tough  they  should  be  cooked 
slowly. 

Game  birds  are  generally  sold  so  much  a  piece,  pair,  or  dozen. 

Poultry.— The  question  as  to  whether  poultry  for  the 
market  should  be  drawn  or  undrawn  has  been  settled  differ- 
ently by  different  States.  It  is  a  great  pity  that 
any  State  should  decide  in  favor  of  undrawn  poul-  ^^a.^. 
try.  Where  this  is  the  law,  there  certainly  should 
also  be  a  law,  which  should  be  enforced,  that  the  animal  go 
without  food  long  enough  to  empty  the  crop.  This  is  the  law 
i  in  some  States,  but  it  is  not  always  observed. 

There  are  two  methods  of  removing  the  feathers  from 
poultry,  one  by  plucking  them  from  the  dry  bird,  and  the 


196  HOME  ECONOMICS 

other  by  first  plunging  it  into  boiling  water.     By  the  latter  - 
method  the  feathers  are  removed  more  easily  than  by  the1 
former,  but  the  water  injures  the  flavor  of  the 
Dry-picked    meat  anc[  jmpairs  its  keeping  qualities. 
scalded.  To  know  which  is  scalded  and  which  is  dry- 

picked  is  a  simple  matter.  The  hot  water  con- 
tracts the  skin,  which  is  drawn  tightly  over  the  flesh,  giving 
the  bird  a  plump,  attractive  appearance.  In  the  dry-picked 
bird  the  skin  is  loose  and  may  be  moved  about  on  the  flesh, 
and  it  has  a  rather  rough  appearance.  To  the  novice  it  will 
look  less  attractive  than  the  scalded  bird.  Dry-picked  poul- 
try is  generally  several  cents  more  per  pound  than  the  scalded, 
but  it  is  worth  the  difference. 

Some   of  the  tests  of  good  poultry  are:   (1)  the  bird; 

should  be  short  and  plump  in  proportion  to  its  weight; 

(2)  skin  smooth,  but  not  the  smoothness  that  comes 

Tests  of      fYOm  scai(iing;  (3)  legs  smooth;  (4)  toes  pliable; 

poultry.      (5)  in  poultry  for  roasting  and  broiling,  the  end  of 

the  breast-bone  should  bend  readily— it  must  not 

be  broken;  (6)  a  large  amount  of  meat  on  the  breast;  (7)  the 

windpipe  in  ducks  and  geese  brittle,  breaking  easily  when 

pressed  between  the  finger  and  thumb. 

Poultry,  like  all  other  meat,  must  be  fat  to  be  good. 
Housekeepers  have  their  preference  as  to  yellow  or  white 
fowl;  mine  is  for  the  yellow,  as  it  seems  to  me  that  the 
flavor  is  richer  than  in  the  white  chicken. 

Marketmen  have  a  way  of  putting  one  of  each  in  a  pair, 
but  they  will  change  to  whichever  kind  you  prefer. 

Only  young,  tender  poultry  should  be  roasted  or  broiled, 

but  the  more  mature  birds  are  better  for  boiling,  stewing, 

Kinds  for     an(*  fricassees>  as  the  proportion  of  meat  to  bone 

various      is  greater  than  in  the  younger  bird.   Older  fowl  are 

metl]dn  °f   a^so  cneaPer-     All  poultry  is  suitable  for  roasting 

from  the  time  it  is  three  months  until  it  is  about  a 

year  old;  after  that  the  slower  methods  of  cooking  are  better. 


MARKETING  *  197 

Fish.— The  first  consideration  in  choosing  fish  is  that  it  be 
fresh.  For  this  reason  it  is  better  to  use  such  fish  as  is  caught 
near  home  than  that  which  must  be  brought  from  a 
distance.  The  firmer  the  flesh  of  the  fish,  the  longer  of  a^ty, 
time  it  will  keep  in  good  condition.  All  fish  con- 
tain a  thin  albuminous  substance,  which  in  cooking  is 
changed  to  a  white  curd  if  the  fish  is  fresh  and  in  a  healthy 
condition.  This  is  very  noticeable  in  cod  and  halibut,  and  all 
fish  of  this  class,  where  it  makes  a  thin  layer  of  a  soft,  creamy 
substance  between  the  flakes.  If  the  fish  has  been  kept  too 
long  this  substance  undergoes  a  change  which  prevents  its 
coagulation,  and  the  cooked  fish  is  watery  and  of  a  bluish 
appearance,  instead  of  being  firm  and  white.  Sometimes  in 
the  spawning  season  the  cooked  fish,  even  when  perfectly 
fresh,  has  the  same  blue  appearance. 

Fresh  fish  will  be  firm,  the  scales  bright,  the  gills  red,  the 
fins  firm  and  erect.  The  fish  from  pure  running  streams, 
clear  ponds  and  lakes,  and  from  the  ocean  are  the  safest  and 
best.  Fish  are  very  sanitary,  and  do  not  live  in  any  great 
number  in  waters  that  are  badly  polluted,  but  they  may  ab- 
sorb just  enough  of  the  pollution  to  make  them  unhealthy  and 
often  dangerous,  as,  for  example,  oysters  that  grow  in  beds 
at  the  mouths  of  rivers  from  which  sewage  is  discharged 
into  the  ocean  or  bay.  Fish  that  inhabit  stagnant  waters 
or  live  at  the  bottom  of  muddy  ponds  never  have  a  fine  flavor, 
and  one  cannot  feel  that  they  may  be  as  healthy  as  those 
from  pure  waters. 


CARE  AND  PURCHASE  OF  GENERAL  SUPPLIES 

The  care  and  purchase  of  household  supplies  depend  upon 
where  and  how  one  lives.  The  family  in  a  flat  with  little 
or  no  storage  accommodation  must  of  necessity  buy  only  in 
small  quantities,  while  the  householder  with  cellar  and  plenty 
of  other  storage-room  will  find  it  a  saving  of  time  and  money 


198  HOME   ECONOMICS 

to  lay  in  stores  that  may  be  kept  for  any  length  of  time  in 
large  quantities. 

Green  vegetables  should  be  purchased  only  when  needed. 
If  asparagus  or  lettuce  must  be  kept  for  a  day  or  two,  put 
some  water  in  a  shallow  dish,  and  let  the  roots  rest  in  the 
water,  which  should  never  be  more  than  an  inch  deep. 

Chicory,  sorrel,  and  all  kinds  of  herbs  may  be  kept  fresh 
and  crisp  in  the  same  manner.  It  must  be  remembered  that 
H  .  only  the  root  ends  go  in  the  water.  The  cooler  all 
keep  green  vegetables  are  kept,  the  better, 
vegetables  When  vegetables  have  lost  their  freshness  and 
crispness  by  being  kept  any  length  of  time,  the 
freshness  may  be  restored  to  a  great  extent  by  soaking  them 
in  cold  water— ice-water,  if  possible. 

Winter  vegetables  should  be  perfectly  ripe  before  being 
gathered.  The  skin  on  fruit  or  vegetable,  when  fully  ripe, 
forms  an  almost  impervious  covering,  through  which  but 
little  moisture  can  escape.  If,  however,  it  is  picked  before 
it  is  ripe,  the  moisture  passes  through  the  porous  skin,  and 
the  fruit  or  vegetable  shrinks. 

All  winter  vegetables  should  be  dried  before  being  stored, 

and  they  should  be  placed  in  a  cool,  dry  place.     Tuberous 

vegetables,  such  as  carrots,  turnips,  beets,  etc.,  will  keep 

better  if  packed  in  dry  earth  or  sand.     Sweet  potatoes  spoil 

quickly,  and  should  be  purchased  only  in  small 

vegetables    quantities.     Apples  should  be  kept  in  a  very  cold 

should  be     place.     They  keep  well  in  a  temperature  nearly 

Storing™    d°wn  to  tne  freezing-point.     If  one  has  a  good, 

cool  cellar,  it  will  be  economy  to  buy  the  winter 

and  spring  supply  of  apples  and  vegetables  in  the  autumn, 

when  they  are  cheap. 

Eggs  are  cheapest  in  the  late  spring,  summer,  and  fall. 
Many  housekeepers  buy  a  quantity  of  eggs  when  they  are 
cheap,  and  preserve  them  for  the  time  when  eggs  are  scarce 
and  expensive.    If  the  shells  of  the  fresh  eggs  are  coated 


MARKETING  199 

with  some  substance  that  will  exclude  the  air,  the  eggs  will 
keep  very  well  for  many  months.  It  must  be  remembered, 
however,  that  eggs  absorb  flavor  through  their  porous  shell, 
and  they  should  not  be  coated  with  or  packed  in  any  sub- 
stance that  can  communicate  a  disagreeable  flavor  to  them. 
Sometimes  quite  fresh  eg£s  are  spoiled  by  being  packed  for 
a  few  days  in  musty  oats. 

The  food  of  the  hens  controls  the  flavor  of  the  eggs  to 
some  extent.  Eggs  are  heaviest  when  first  laid,  and  they 
lose  moisture  and  grow  lighter  from  day  to  day. 

To  test  the  freshness  of  eggs,  make  a  salt  solution  of  one 
quart  of  water  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  salt.     A  fresh  egg 
will  sink  in  this;  an  egg  that  is  not  very  stale  will 
give  just  a  suggestion  of  rising,  and  a  very  stale        L~ 
egg  will  float  readily. 

Butter.— The  mode  of  making  and  preserving  butter  has 
materially  changed  in  late  years.  Dairy  butter  is  no  longer 
made  in  large  quantities  and  stored,  as  in  former  years. 
Creamery  butter  has  practically  taken  the  place  of  the  old- 
fashioned  dairy  butter;  the  former  does  not  keep  well,  and 
only  small  quantities  should  be  purchased  at  a  time. 

When  the  cows  are  pastured  in  spring,  summer,  and  fall, 
the  butter  is  richer  and  of  finer  flavor  than  that  made  from 
the  winter  cream,  and  less  of  it  may  be  used  in  making  cake 
and  pastry. 

Butter  absorbs  flavors,  and  it  should  be  kept  in  a  covered 
•stone  or  earthen  jar,  and  away  from  all  strong  odors.  To 
harden  butter  for  daily  use  keep  it  covered  with  cold 
water.  , 

Milk.— The  greatest  care  should  be  exercised  in  deciding 
upon  where  the  supply  of  milk  comes  from,  and,  when  it  has 
been  delivered  to  you,  in  keeping  it  where  it  shall  not  become 
contaminated  or  absorb  odors. 

At  a  slight  advance  in  the  ordinary  price  one  may  now 
get  milk  that  has  been  bottled  and  sealed  at  the  farm,  thus 


200  HOME  ECONOMICS 

insuring  a  fairly  pure  article.   Good  milk  will  be  slightly  straw- 
Color  of      colored  and  have  a  pleasant  flavor  and  odor.   When 
milk  and     the  milk  is  thin  and  blue,  it  has  either  been  skimmed 
Ca^ei?ineS"    or  watered,  or  there  is  something  wrong  with  it. 
which  it  is    If  there  is  the  slightest  reason  to  think  that  the 

kept.       mjjk  jg  contaminated,  boil  it  before  using. 

The  greatest  care  is  required  in  the  treatment  of  the  milk 
after  it  is  received  into  the  house.  The  vessels  in  which  it 
is  kept  should  be  thoroughly  washed,  scalded,  and  then 
cooled.  The  milk  or  cream  should,  if  possible,  be  kept  in  a 
cool,  well-lighted  and  -ventilated  room.  Fresh  and  stale  milk 
should  never  be  mixed,  unless  they  are  to  be  cooked  at  once. 

Groceries.— Even  in  small  apartments  it  is  wise  to  purchase 
at  least  a  month's  supply  of  groceries,  as  it  is  a  great  waste 
of  time  and  patience  to  find  each  day  that  something  is 
wanting  that  necessitates  a  trip  to  the  grocer's,  and  perhaps 
delay  in  preparing  a  dish  which  requires  but  one  thing  to 
complete  it.  Every  store-closet  should  be  supplied  with 
sugar,  flour,  tea,  coffee,  chocolate,  eggs,  breakfast  cereals  (if 
used),  molasses,  salt,  pepper,  spice,  rice,  macaroni,  bicarbon- 
ate of  soda,  cream  of  tartar,  baking-powder,  flavoring  ex- 
tracts, vinegar,  gelatin,  barley,  starch,  bluing,  soap,  and 
sal-soda. 

All  dry  groceries  and  cereals  should  be  kept  in  glass,  pot- 
tery, or  metal.    The  store-closet  should  be  cool,  dry,  and  well 
ventilated;  heat  and  moisture,  lack  of  ventilation, 
groceries^   an(^  insects  are  the  enemies  of  all  cereals. 

Nearly  all  kinds  of  food-supplies  absorb  flavors 
and  odors  to  some  degree.  Chocolate,  cocoa,  coffee,  flour, 
butter,  milk,  and  eggs  are  among  the  things  that  absorb 
odors  and  flavors  readily. 

As  a  rule,  the  best  goods  are  the  cheapest  in  the  end.  It 
is  especially  important  that  the  flour  be  of  the  best  quality. 
Good  flour  will  have  a  pleasant  odor  and  a  slightly  yellowish 
tinge.     Wet  a  small  quantity  with  cold  water,  and  work  into 


MARKETING  201 

a  rather  stiff  dough.  If  the  dough  becomes  stiff  and  elastic 
the  flour  will  make  good  bread. 

The  less  spice  used  the  better,  but  in  any  case  it  should  be 
of  the  best  quality. 

The  best  sugar  is  so  reasonable  that  there  is  no  necessity 
for  even  poor  people  to  seek  a  cheap  grade. 

Porto  Rico  molasses  is  more  acid  than  the  New  Orleans, 
and  is  therefore  better  for  gingerbread. 


CHAPTER  X 

THE  ART  OF  CARVING 
Some  suggestions  about  carving.    General  remarks  on  serving  fish. 

There  was  an  old  saying  among  the  French  that  it  was  as 
disgraceful  for  a  host  not  to  know  how  to  carve  well  as  it 
was  to  have  a  fine  library  and  not  know  how 
anTpief-6    *°  reac*-     Nowadays  one  is  constantly  hearing 
sure  of      the  complaint  that  carving  is  a  lost  art  since 
°a^SbS.at   ^ne  Russ*an  style  °f  serving  has  been  in  vogue. 
It  is   certainly  true  that  for  large  and   cere- 
monious dinners  the  carving  is  not  done  at  the  table;  but 
there  are  few  heads  of  families  who,  having  been  accus- 
tomed  to  good  living,  would  willingly,  under  ordi- 
and  boiled    narv  circumstances,  relinquish  the  duty  and  plea- 
meats      sure  of  carving  the  joints,  poultry,  or  game  served 
perfection    on  th^1"  own  tables.     Roasted  and  boiled  meats 
when       may  only  be  served  in  perfection  by  being  carved 
quickly,      quickly  and  well  on  the  table.     It  is  impossible 
to  serve  a  portion  of  meat  hot,  crisp,  and  juicy 
from  an  adjoining  room.     Besides,  there  are  comparatively 
few  households  that  can  afford  a  skilled  butler  or  cook  who 
can  carve  daintily  and  to  good  advantage. 

The  art  of  carving  is  a  most  useful  and  graceful  accom- 
plishment, and  one  which  should  form  a  part  of  the  education 

202 


THE  ART  OF  CARVING  203 

of  every  young  man  and  woman.     It  is  not  a  difficult  art  to 
master,  provided  one  goes  about  it  in  the  right    c    -.« 
manner.     If  one  understands  the   anatomy  of    necessary 
the  joint  or  bird,  and  the  direction  in  which      for  good 
the  muscular  fibers  run,  half  the  battle  is  won. 

Some  of  the  conditions  necessary  for  success  are  a  cool 
head,  control  of  one's  temper,  a  sharp  knife,  a  seat  high 
enough  to  bring  the  elbows  on  a  line  with  the  table,  ample 
space,  a  dish  that  stands  firmly  on  the  table  and  large  enough 
to  allow  the  joint  to  be  carved  without  any  danger  of  soiling 
the  cloth.  Having  a  knowledge  of  bones  and  muscles,  and 
all  the  conditions  being  favorable,  the  carver  will  be  able  to 
do  his  work  scientifically,  rapidly,  and  gracefully. 

Realizing  how  much  clearer  a  few  pencil  lines  may  make 
things  than  pages  of  written  instruction,  whenever  it  has 
seemed  desirable  the  methods  of  carving  a  joint 
or  a  bird  have  been  fully  illustrated.    As  these     tnemus- 
illustrations  are  for  real  helps,  and  not  for  em-    trations  if 
bellishment,  the  lines  have  been  made  as  few,     ^a^af 
clear,  and  simple  as  possible,  that  there  need 
be  no  doubt  or  confusion  in  the  mind  of  the  carver.     If 
these  illustrations  are  studied  carefully,  and  if,  in  addition, 
the  carver  will  study,  in  the  chapter  on  "  Marketing,"  Figs. 
10,  11,  12,  13,  14,  15,  and  16,  the  position  of  the  bones  and 
the  direction  of  the  muscles  in  the  various  cuts  of  butchers' 
meat  will  be  clearly  understood,  and  will  aid  the  carver  in 
knowing  in  what  direction  he  should  cut  a  joint,  that  the 
slice  of  meat  may  be  cut  across  the  grain. 

The  four  cuts  showing  the  bones,  muscles,  and  Why  four 
mode  of  carving  a  shoulder  of  mutton  are  given  ^J^Je?  of 
as  a  study  of  the  complicated  manner  in  which  mutton  aro 
the  muscles  are  arranged  in  this  part  of  the  do-  given' 
mestic  animal.  It  would  be  an  easy  and  valuable  lesson  to 
bone  an  uncooked  shoulder  of  mutton.  When  purchasing 
this  joint,  ask  the  butcher  not  to  bone  it.    With  a  sharp 


204  HOME  ECONOMICS 

knife  pare  off  all  the  outer  fat,  leaving  the  lean  bare.  Then 
slip  the  knife  between  the  bone  and  the  flesh,  beginning  at 
the  broad  end  of  the  shoulder-blade,  and  work  down  to  the 
arm-  and  leg-bones.  Remove  the  meat  on  the  under  side  of 
the  bone  in  the  same  manner.  Examine  the  muscles  to  find 
the  direction  of  each  set. 

This  piece  of  meat,  when  taken  from  a  good  fat  animal, 
will  contain  thick  layers  of  fat  between  the  lean.  Some  of 
this  may  be  removed,  and  the  lean  meat  boiled,  roasted,  or 
braized.  It  is  not  as  tender  as  some  of  the  prime  cuts,  but 
it  is  very  sweet  and  juicy. 

SOME  SUGGESTIONS   ABOUT   CARVING 

There  should  be  a  long,  broad-bladed  knife  for  roast  beef 
and  other  large  joints;  a  smaller  and  narrow-bladed  knife 
for  poultry  and  small  joints.     The  fork  should 
to  umcL0     nave  a  Suard,  which  should  be  up  while  one  is 
carving.   The  knife  must  be  examined  and  sharp- 
ened on  the  steel  before  it  is  used;  this  should  be  done  be- 
fore it  is  brought  to  the  table. 

In  sharpening  on  the  steel,  be  careful  not  to  bear  heavily 

on  the  knife,  or  to  hold  it  at  too  sharp  an  angle.     The  best 

way  is  to  draw  the  knife  under  and  over  the  steel, 

tosha^en    a^  an  an^e  °f  about  fifteen  or  twenty  degrees, 

a  knife,      drawing  from  the  end  of  the  knife  near  the  handle 

down  to  the  point.     The  last  strokes  should  be 

very  slow  and  light,  to  even  up  the  edge,  if  by  chance  it  has 

become  slightly  turned. 

Carving-knives  should  be  ground  once  in  a  while.  Unless 
you  know  how  to  do  it  yourself,  or  know  of  a  good  place 
where  it  may  be  done,  ask  your  butcher  to  have  it  done  for 
you.  There  is  a  French  make  of  knife  which  is  inexpensive 
and  very  satisfactory;  they  are  called  cooks'  knives  (the 
name  of  the  maker  is  Sabatier).    One  can  afford  several  sizes 


THE  ART  OF  CARVING  205 

of  these  knives,  and  they  will  be  found  invaluable.  A  French 
knife  for  carving  poultry  that  solves  the  problem  of  joints 
for  the  inexperienced  carver  is  called  a  disjointer  or  knife- 
scissors.  It  is,  however,  too  expensive  for  people  of  moder- 
ate means,  the  knife  and  fork  in  ebony  handles  costing  fif- 
teen dollars,  and  in  ivory  twenty-five  dollars. 

The  carver's  chair  should  be  broad,  firm,  and  Theeary- 
high.  There  is  no  reason  why  any  one  should  should  be 
stand  to  carve.  broad  and 

A  joint  or  bird  should  not  be  garnished  with       ^ 
anything  that  will  interfere  with  the  work  of  the     Garnish- 
carver.     Parsley,  cress,  and  chevril  may  be  put    ^oVinter- 
aside  by  the  carver;  therefore  they  are  not  objec-     fere  with 
tionable;  but  any  substance  that  interferes  with      Carver, 
the  work  of  carving  is  not  advisable,  no  matter  how 
decorative.     It  is  impossible  to  carve  easily  on  a  small  plat- 
ter; it  is  well  to  have  a  plate  on  which  the  carver  may  put 
trimmings  or  bones  that  are  not  to  be  served. 

Each  joint  or  fowl  should  be  so  carved  that  if  all  is  not 
required  for  one  meal,  it  shall  present  a  neat  and  attractive 
appearance  the  second  day.  Every  slice  or  joint  should  be 
cut  smoothly  and  neatly;  a  joint  or  fowl  that  has  been  hacked 
is  unappetizing  and  wasteful. 

Finish  carving  one  side  of  a  joint  or  fowl  before  begin- 
ning on  the  other  side.     When  carving  poultry,  whether  to 
ask  the  guests  for  their  preference  as  to  light  or 
dark  meat  is  a  problem.    Naturally,  one  wishes  to    ^Jjjjj?  a°f 
please  every  one  at  the  table;  but  if,  by  chance       guest's 
(and  this  often  happens),  the  majority  of  the    i)re1f®r^cer 
guests  give  a  preference  for  one  kind  of  meat,  the    dark  meat, 
carver  is  in  an  embarrassing  position.     There  was 
a  time  when  one  felt  assured  that  the  ladies  would  prefer 
light  meat;  but  women  have  learned  that  dark  meat  is  juicy 
and  fine-flavored,  and  even  the  long-despised  drumstick  is 
now  the  first  choice  of  many. 


206 


HOME   ECONOMICS 


One  may  always  be  safe  in  cutting  across  the  grain  in  alB 
joints.  Even  the  most  tender  piece  of  meat  will  be  tough  iff 
it  is  cut  with  the  grain,  i.  e.f  with  the  length  of  the  fiber. . 
Always  Where  the  muscles  are  short  and  not  much  used,, 
safe  to  cut  as,  for  example,  the  breast  of  poultry  and  birds, , 
across  the    ft  js  not  imperative  that  they  should  be  cut  across  i 

grain.  .      r  J 

the  grain. 
When  carving  poultry  or  birds  one  is  sure  to  strike  the! 
wing  joint  at  the  right  point  if  the  knife  is  in  a  line  with 
the  top  of  the  leg  where  it  touches  the  body. 

Sirloin  of  Beef,  or  Porterhouse  Roast.— This  joint  is  known 
in  different  sections  of  the  country  under  the  above  names. 
It  may  be  divided  into  three  parts:  a,  the  back  or  top;  6,  the 

tenderloin  or  fillet;  c,  c, 
the  flank.  The  most 
tender  part  is  the  ten- 
derloin; next  is  the  top. 
The  flank  is  tough, 
coarse,  and  loose- 
grained,  but  very  juicy 
and  fine-flavored.  Even 
though  it  is  not  served 
at  the  table,  it  is  an  ad- 
vantage to  cook  it  on 
the  joint,  as  it  makes  such  a  quantity  of  dish  gravy.  The 
crisp  fat  on  this  part  of  the  roast  is  also  a  desirable  addition 
to  the  dish. 

If  the  tenderloin  is  to  be  served  with  the  other  portions, 
turn  the  joint  on  the  end,  and  slip  the  knife  between  the  bone 
and  the  tenderloin,  being  careful  to  keep  the  edge  of  the 
blade  close  to  the  bone.  In  this  manner  the  tenderloin  may 
be  removed  whole,  and  slices  cut  from  it  as  they  are  required. 
Turn  the  joint  back  into  its  former  position. 
1.  Cut  close  to  the  backbone,  following  the  dotted  line 
e,  e,  and  cutting  sharply  down  the  spine. 


Fig.  25.    Sirloin  or  porterhouse  roast. 


THE  ART  OF   CARVING 


207 


2,  Slip  the  knife  between  the  spine  and  the  meat. 

3.  Cut  thin  slices  in  the  direction  of  the  dotted  lines  d,  d. 
Serve  a  small  piece  of  crisp  fat  from  the  flank  with  each 

slice  of  beef,  and  pour      cc 
a    spoonful    of    dish 
gravy  on  each  portion 
of  meat. 

If  only  a  portion  of 
the  joint  is  to  be 
carved,  do  not  cut  the 
whole  length  of  the 
dotted  line  e,  e.  It  is 
a  good  plan  to  cut  at 
once  as  many  slices 
as  there  are  persons 
to  be  served,  separating  each  slice  at  the  end  of  the  carving; 
then  all  tastes  may  be  suited,  and  the  service  may  be  prompt. 

If  one  wishes,  the  tenderloin  may  be  carved  first;  slices 
from  this  portion  of  the  joint  should  be  thicker  than  those 
which  are  cut  from  the  top. 

Roast  Ribs  of  Beef.— Have  the  thick  end  to  the  left  (Fig. 
26).     Cut  from  a  to  b  straight  down  to  the  bone;  slip  the 


Roast  ribs  of  beef. 


Fig.  27.    Round  of  beef. 


Fig-.  28.    Leg  of  mutton. 


knife  between  the  ribs  and  the  meat.     Cut  thin  slices,  fol- 
lowing the  dotted  lines  b,  c.     (Read  suggestions  in  "  Sirloin 
Roast.") 
Rolled  Ribs  of  Beef.-Carve  like  a  round  of  beef  (Fig.  27). 


208  HOME  ECONOMICS 

Round  of  Beef.— Have  a  sharp,  broad-bladed  knife,  and 
cut  thin  slices  from  a  to  b. 

Leg  of  Mutton.— The  carving  of  a  leg  of  mutton  is  not 
difficult  until  you  come  to  the  hip-bone,  and  in  what  is  called 
a  short  leg  this  is  often  wanting,  having  been  cut  into 
chops.     However,  as  a  rule  it  is  found  in  the  average  leg. 

Have  the  leg  placed  on  the  dish  in  the  position  indicated 
in  Fig.  28. 

Make  the  first  incision  at  the  line  a,  b,  where  you  will 
just  touch  the  edge  of  the  hip-bone.  Cut  slices  about  one 
fourth  of  an  inch  thick.  The  slices  will  be  large  and 
rare  until  you  reach  the  line  c,  d.  Here  they  begin  to  grow 
smaller  and  better  done. 

If  some  like  underdone  and  others  well-done  meat,  the 
better  plan  is  to  make  the  first  cut  near  c,  d,  cutting  down- 
ward toward  the  knuckle  for  well-done  slices,  and 
knuckfe  -  upward  for  the  underdone;  serve  a  thin  slice  of 
lamb  or  crisp  fat  from  e  with  each  portion.  In  a  properly 
mutton  is     cooked  leg  of  mutton  or  lamb  the  knuckle  is  a 

morsel.  choice  morsel;  ask  if  any  one  would  like  a  bit  of 
this. 

When  one  side  is  carved,  turn  and  carve  on  the  other 
side,  following  the  same  general  direction. 

Some  carvers  prefer  to  begin  with  the  other  side,  taking 
the  first  slices  from  the  back,  cutting  either  parallel  or  at 
right  angles  with  the  backbone.    Chops  may  be  cut  from/ to  e. 

Mutton  It  is  needless  to  say  that  this,  as  all  dishes  of 

served  hot  mu^ton>  should  be  served  hot.  The  carving  must 
and  carved  be  rapid,  the  plates  hot,  and  the  vegetables  served 
rapidly.       at  once# 

Saddle  of  Mutton.— l.  Turn  the  saddle  on  one  side,  and 
remove  the  tenderloin,  kidney,  and  fat,  all  in  one  piece. 
This  is  easily  accomplished  if  the  sharp  edge  of  the  blade 
of  the  knife  slants  toward  the  backbone. 

2.  There  are  three  methods  of  carving  a  long  saddle  of 


THE  ART  OF  CARVING  209 

mutton.  One  is  to  cut  long,  thin  slices  parallel  with  the 
backbone,  as  indicated  by  the  dotted  line  a,  6,  in  Fig.  29. 
Another  is  to  cut  thin 


slices  in  a  slanting  di-       j2^~" i 

rection,  as  indicated  in  (^5i^--irm-ni;r\T\i ' 

the  dotted  lines  c,  d>  cut-  ^v--rr:;::::  \  \ \\\\\\Y 

ting  thin  slices  of  fat  r--"::::~r:  y\\\\\^\Ji 

from  b  to/.  Still  another  ^— ^i 

method    iS    tO    CUt   aS    in-  Fig.  a*    Saddle  of  mutton. 

dicated  by  the  dotted 

lines  g,  a,  then  in  slanting  slices  from  c  to  d.  By  consulting 
Fig.  14  it  will  be  seen  that  the  last  method  has  the  advan- 
tage of  cutting  all  the  portions  across  the  grain.  A  slice 
of  kidney  should  be  served  with  each  portion. 

Haunch  of  Mutton.— This  joint  is  carved  like  a  haunch  of 
venison  (Fig.  38). 

Loin  of  Mutton.— This  joint  can  be  carved  like  a  saddle, 
but  it  is  more  usual  to  separate  it  into  chops.  When  the 
roast  is  to  be  carved  in  this  manner,  the  butcher  must  have 
orders  to  disjoint  the  bones. 

Roast  Shoulder  of  Mutton.— A  shoulder  of  mutton,  lamb, 
veal,  and  venison  may  all  be  carved  in  the  manner  indicated 
in  Figs.  32  and  33.  Follow  the  dotted  lines,  and  you  will 
cut  across  the  grain.  Fig.  34  (shoulder-blade,  arm-  and 
leg-bones)  and  Fig.  35  are  given  to  show  the  position  of  the 
bones  and  muscles  in  this  cut. 

This  joint  is  apt  to  be  very  fat  in  mutton,  and  should  be 
served  very  hot. 

Fore  Quarter  of  Mutton.  —  Carve  as  directed  for  fore 
quarter  of  lamb,  except  that  the  neck  should  not  be  served. 
As  a  rule,  it  is  too  tough,  in  the  mature  animal,  for  any- 
thing but  stewing. 

Leg  of  Lamb.— This  is  carved  the  same  as  a  leg  of  mutton. 

Hind  Quarter  of  Lamb.— Carve  the  leg  as  directed  for 
mutton,  and  cut  the  loin  into  chops. 


H 


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Fore  Quarter  of  Lamb.— l.  Cut  off  the  shoulder,  following 
the  dotted  line  from  a  to  b. 

2.  Separate  the  ribs  into  chops,  cutting  in  the  direction 
from  c  to  d.  If  it  is  a  spring  lamb  the  thymus  gland  or 
throat  sweetbread  should  be  found  in  the  neck.     Carve  the 


Fig.  30.    Fore  quarter  of  lamb. 


shoulder  as  directed  for  shoulder  of  mutton.     Every  particle 
of  spring  lamb  is  tender;  therefore  the  neck  is  served. 

Loin  of  Veal.-  This  joint  is  often  stuffed,  the  thin  flank 
piece  overlapping  the  stuffing  and  kidney.  If  a  chop  is 
served  to  each  person  it  makes  too  large  a  portion.  Remove 
the  kidney.  Carve  the  same  as  a  sirloin  of  beef.  Serve 
with  each  portion  a  slice  of  kidney  and  a  slice  of  the  flank, 
with  some  of  the  stuffing  attached. 


Fig   32. 


Method  of  carving  a  shoulder  of 
mutton. 


Fig.  33.    Method  of  carving  the  under  part  of 
the  shoulder. 


Breast  of  Veal.— The  breast  of  veal  is  what  answers  to  the 
brisket  and  cross-rib  piece  in  beef.  Where  the  shoulder 
has  been  removed  the  layer  of  meat  is  thin,  and  should  be 
protected  and  moistened  while  cooking  by  thin  slices  of  fat 
pork,  or,  if  the  pork  is  objectionable,  by  buttered  paper.     If 


THE   ART   OF   CARVING 


211 


the  ribs  are  short,  serve  one  with  each  portion  cut  from 
a,  a,  a,  to  b,  b,  b.  The  brisket,  c,  c,  may  be  divided  into  two 
portions.  In  the  calf  the  bones  are  so  tender 
that  they  may  be  cut  with  a  sharp  knife,  but  it 
is  better  to  have  the  butcher  separate  the  joints. 
Neck  of  Veal.— The  neck  of  veal  is  the  upper 
part  of  that  portion  of  the  fore  quarter  from 
which  the  shoulder  and  breast  were  taken.  It 
includes  the  chuck  ribs  and  the  neck  part.  Some- 
times the  throat  sweetbread  is  found  in  the  neck. 
Have  the  butcher  separate  the  joints  of  the  back- 
bone. This  joint  may  be  carved  in  chops,  or  thin  slices 
may  be  cut  from  the  ribs,  as  in  the  case  of  ribs  of  beef. 
Naturally,  the  slices  are  small. 


How  to 

protect 
thin  end  of 

breast  of 
veal  when 

cooking. 

What  is  in- 
cluded in  a 
neck  of 
veal. 


Fig-  34-    Position  of  shoulder-bone. 


Fig.  35.    Showing  position  of  muscles  in  shoulder. 


Shoulder  of  Veal.— Carve  this  like  the  shoulder  of  mutton. 
Sometimes  the  shoulder  is  boned  and  stuffed;  in  that  case 
begin  at  one  end  and  cut  slices  through  the  piece.  This 
requires  a  sharp  knife  and  great  care  that  the  slices  shall 
look  smooth  and  inviting. 

Roast  Fillet  of  Veal.— The  fillet  of  veal  and  fricandeau 
are  both  carved  like  a  round  of  beef.   (See  Fig.  27.) 

Loin  of  Pork.— This  joint  may  be  carved  in  thin  slices,  like 
a  sirloin  roast  of  beef,  or  it  may  be  separated  into  chops, 
each  person  being  served  with  one  chop. 

Spare  Ribs  of  Pork  are  cut  between  the  ribs;  each  person 
is  served  with  a  rib. 

To  Carve  a  Ham.— A  boiled  or  roast  ham  is  a  dish  that,  as 
a  rule,  comes  to  the  table  many  times.     It  should  be  carved 


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in  such  a  manner  that  the  last  cuts  shall  be  as  moist  and 
well  flavored  as  the  first.  The  small  or  knuckle  end  is  less 
fat  and  juicy  than  the  broad,  thick  end;  therefore  it  dries 
quickly,  and  should  be  the  part  first  used. 

Cut  in  the  direction  of  the  lines  (Fig.  36),  cutting  clean 
and  straight  to  the  bone.  Have  the  slices  very  thin.  Con- 1 
tinue  cutting  toward  the  knuckle. 

When  the  ham  is  set  away  the  cut  part  should  be  pro- 
tected by  paraffin  paper. 

Tongue.— A  tongue,  like  a  ham,  has  its  thick  and  juicy 
end,  and  also  its  dry  end.  It  should  be  carved  so  as  to  use 
the  thin,  dry  end  the  first  day.  Begin  cutting  at  c,  d,  slant- 
ing the  slices,  which  cut 
very  thin;  when  you  have 
carved  as  many  slices  as 


Fig.  36.    Ham. 


Fig.  37.    Tongue. 


there  are  people  to  serve,  carve  the  same  number  of  slices 

from  the  thick  part.     Follow  the  line  from  a  to  b.    Cut  a 

thin  sliver  of  fat  from  e.     Serve  each  person  with  a  large 

and  small  slice  of  tongue  and  a  little  fat. 

Haunch  of  Venison.— This  joint  includes  the  leg  and  loin. 

To  cut  the  meat  across  the  grain,  the  direction  of  the  dotted 
lines  in  Fig.  38  should  be  followed.  A  method 
common  with  some  good  carvers  is  to  cut  wholly 
in  the  direction  of  a,  c.  By  consulting  Figs.  14 
and  16  it  will  be  seen  that  by  this  method  the 
meat  on  the  leg  is  cut  with  the  grain. 

A   leg,  loin,    shoulder,  and   fore   quarter   of 

venison  are  carved  like  the  same  joints  in  mutton  and 

lamb. 


Venison  is 
carved  like 
the  same 
joints  in 
mutton  or 
lamb. 


THE  ART  OF  CARVING  213 

It  is  very  important  that  the'  plates  be  hot  and  the  carv- 
ing be  rapid. 

To  Carve  a  Roast  Pig.— This  dish  is  served  so  infrequently 
that  there  is  not  the  same  opportunity  to  perfect  one's  self 
by  practice  as  is  the  case  with  the  greater  number  of  dishes 
that  come  to  the  carver's  hands. 

The  animal  is  so  young  that  bones  and  ligaments  offer  no 
resistance  to  a  sharp  knife.  Once  knowing  how  to  begin, 
and  where  the  knife  should  go,  the  task  is  quite  simple. 


Fig.  38.    Haunch  of  venison.  Fig.  39.    Roast  pig. 

There  are  two  methods  of  bringing  the  pig  to  the  table; 
both  methods  have  their  advantages.  When  all  the  carving 
is  done  at  the  table  the  meat  is  hotter  and  the  cracklings 
crisper  than  when  it  is  cut  in  the  kitchen;  but,  on  the  other 
hand,  if  the  work  in  the  kitchen  is  done  rapidly  and  well, 
and  the  pig  is  served  on  a  hot  dish,  there  need  be  no  great 
loss  of  heat  or  crispness,  and  the  time  of  the  carver  is  saved. 

Have  the  pig  on  a  large  platter,  the  side  toward 
the  carver,  and  the  head  at  the  right  hand.     Cut      How  t0  . 

carve  roast 

off  the  ears;  sever  the  head  from  the  body;  split  pig. 
the  head  in  two.  Divide  the  body  in  two  parts, 
cutting  through  the  middle  of  the  backbone.  Lay  the  two 
halves  on  the  platter,  back  to  back,  the  browned  side  up. 
Place  half  a  head  at  each  end  and  the  ears  at  the  sides.  The 
head  may  be  divided  into  small  portions,  if  the  guests  express 
a  wish  for  it. 

Separate  the  shoulder  from  the  body,  following  the  dotted 
lines  from  a  to  b  (Fig.  40).  Next  take  off  the  leg,  follow- 
ing the  dotted  lines  from  c  to  d.  As  each  joint  is  taken  off, 
lay  it  with  the  crackling  side  up. 

The  carver  may  now  begin  to  serve.     To  carve  the  ribs 


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Fig.  4a 


and  loin,  cut  at  right  angles  with  the  backbone,  as  indicated 
by  the  dotted  lines  e  and/. 

Each  person  should  be  served  with  the  part  which  he  pre- 
fers; but  a  portion  of  the  cracklings  must  be  reserved  for  each 

guest,  as  this  is  the  cream 
of  the  roast.  If  the  pig 
is  stuffed,  a  little  stuffing 
goes  by  the  side  of  the 
..  meat.  If  sauce  or  gravy  is 
(J  served,  it  must  always  be 
put  at  the  side  of  the  meat, 
never  on  it,  as  that  would 
destroy  the  crispness. 

In  all  the  work  be  care- 
ful not  to  tear  or  moisten 
the  crisp  brown  skin,  which  gets  its  name  from 
making  a  crackling  noise  when  cut.  The  French 
call  it  "  cloth  of  gold,"  because  of  the  rich  golden 
brown  of  the  perfectly  roasted  and  basted  skin. 
No  matter  what  the  method  of  carving,  it  must 
be  done  rapidly,  that  the  meat  may  be  served  crisp  and  hot. 
To  Carve  a  Turkey.— Opinions  differ  as  to  the  best  posi- 
tion in  which  a  fowl  should  be  placed  before  the  carver. 
There  are  those  who 
maintain  that  the  head 
should  be  turned  toward 
the  carver,  while  quite 
as  many  advocate  turn- 
ing the  head  from  the 
carver.  Others  place  the 
fowl  with  the  head  to- 
ward the  left  hand  and 
the  side  toward  the  carver.  My  preference  is  for  the  lat- 
ter position;  but  the  position  one  is  accustomed  to  is,  of 
course,  always  the  easiest. 


Care  must 
be  taken 
not  to  tear 
or  moisten 
the  brown 
skin. 


Fig.  41. 


THE  ART  OF  CARVING  215 

Have  the  turkey  served  on  a  large  dish ;  stick  the  fork  firmly 
in  the  center  of  the  breast-bone,  and  carve  in  the  manner 
indicated  in  the  drawing. 

1.  Remove  the  wing,  cutting  sharply  down  at  a  to  sever 
the  joint,  then  round  the  joint,  following  the  dotted  lines 
from  a  to  b. 

2.  To  remove  the  leg,  cut  from  c  to  d,  following  the  dotted 
line.  With  the  blade  of  the  knife  press  the  leg  back,  and 
cut  the  ligaments  where  the  thigh-bone  is  attached  to  the 
back;  separate  the  drumstick  from  the  thigh  at  the  joint  e. 

3.  Take  off  the  side-bone,  inserting  the  knife  where  the 
at/,  and  cutting  up  to  g.  The  "oyster"  is  found  " oyster" 
on  the  upper  end  of  this  bone.  1S  oun  ' 

4.  Cut  thin  slices  from  the  breast,  beginning  close  to  the 
place  from  which  the  wing  was  removed;  follow  the  dotted 
lines  h  and  iy  working  up  to  the  ridge  of  the  breast-bone. 

5.  Take  off  the  wishbone,  inserting  the  knife  at  k,  and 
cutting  up  to  j  and  I;  then,  pressing  the  bone  back  toward 
the  neck,  disjoint  at  these  two  points. 

6.  The  collar-bone  lies  under  the  wing.  Slip  the  knife 
under  the  broad  end,  press  back,  and  disjoint. 

7.  Make  an  opening  in  the  apron  at  m.  You  will  now 
have  the  dark  and  light  meat  at  your  command,  and,  also, 
the  stuffing  in  the  breast  and  the  body  of  the  fowl. 

The  tip  end  of  the  backbone,  known  as  the  pope's  nose,  is 
considered  by  many  as  a  delicate  morsel.  Insert  the  knife 
at  n  to  cut  off  this  joint. 

If  only  half  the  turkey  is  to  be  used  the  first     Jj^jjf 
day,  do  not  attempt  to  take  out  the  wishbone.         turkey  do 

The  dark  meat  on  the  thigh-bone  and  drum-  not  remove 
stick  should  be  cut  into  small,  inviting  portions.  l™t  " 
The  wing  should  be  divided  into  two  parts.  The 
meat,  stuffing,  and  gravy  should  be  placed  carefully  on  the 
plate.  The  breast,  as  a  rule,  may  be  cut  into  thin,  inviting 
slices. 


216  HOME  ECONOMICS 

Sometimes  there  are  two  kinds  of  stuffing  in  the  turkey, 
the  breast  being  stuffed  with  sausage-meat,  truffles,  etc., 

Two  kinds    an(*  the  ^°^  with  a  stufim&  of  niSnty  seasoned 
of  stuffing    bread-  or  cracker-crumbs.    The  carver  should  be 
may  be      made  acquainted  with  this  fact. 

Carve  only  one  side;  when  that  is  served,  the 
other  side  may  be  carved,  if  it  is  required. 

Cut  each  joint  and  slice  clean  and  smooth.  A  great  deal 
of  meat  will  be  found  on  the  carcass  after  the  wings,  legs, 
and  side-bones  have  been  taken  off. 

In  some  families  the  legs  of  the  turkey  are  put  aside  to 
be  served  deviled  the  next  day. 

The  French  sometimes  make  this  dish  still  larger  by  leav- 
ing the  lower  part  of  the  backbone  attached  to  the  thigh-bone. 

Roast  Chicken.— A  roast  chicken  is  generally  carved  the 
same  as  in  the  directions  for  carving  a  turkey,  except  that 
the  legs,  not  being  so  large,  are  not  divided  into  so  many 
parts.  Sometimes  the  entire  chicken  is  divided  into  joints. 
This  is  more  difficult  for  the  amateur,  and  more  awkward  for 
the  guest,  than  when  the  meat  is  cut  from  the  bones.  If 
one  wishes  to  serve  a  chicken  in  this  manner,  the  carving  is 
begun  as  indicated  for  a  turkey.  The  legs,  side-bones,  and 
pope's  nose  are  taken  off;  the  first  two  joints  of  the  wings 
only  are  removed.  Cut  straight  down  from  this  joint  to  the 
end  of  the  breast-bone;  separate  these  two  long  pieces  from 
the  shoulder-bone  and  any  ligaments  that  may  hold  them. 
Separate  the  breast-bone  from  the  back;  cut  this  in  two,  sepa- 
rating it  a  little  below  the  joint  where  the  wishbone  comes. 

Boiled  Fowl.— This  dish  is  carved  the  same  as  roast  chicken. 

Broiled  Chicken.— If  the  chickens  are  small,  divide  them 
into  four  parts  in  the  following  manner:  Cut  through  the 
breast,  and  separate  each  half  by  cutting  across  at  right 
angles  with  the  top  of  the  leg.  When  they  are  large, 
they  may  be  divided  into  smaller  portions  by  taking  off  the 
wings  and  legs  and  then  dividing  the  body  into  several  parts. 


THE  ART  OF  CARVING  217 

Roast  Duck.— The  method  of  carving  varies  with  the  cus- 
tom of  the  house,  and  whether  the  fowl  is  domestic  or  wild. 
The  wild  fowl  uses  both  legs  and  wings  a  great 
deal,  thus  making  the  joints  tough  and  hard  to  ^JjJJf 
carve;  while  the  domestic  duck  uses  the  legs  much  served  in 
less,  and  the  wings  but  rarely;  therefore  these  carving do- 
joints  are  more  tender  than  in  the  wild  fowl.  It  wild  duck, 
is  the  custom  in  many  households  to  serve  only 
the  breast  of  the  wild  duck,  reserving  the  legs,  wings,  and 
carcass  for  a  salmi.  In  that  case  the  duties  of  the  carver 
are  extremely  simple. 

In  case  the  entire  duck  is  served  hot,  it  may  be  carved  by 
either  of  the  following  methods: 

1.  Begin  at  the  wing  joint  (a,  Pig.  42),  and  cut  off  the 
wing,  following  the  dotted  line  from  a  to  b. 

2.  Cut  off  the  leg,  following  the  dotted  line       First 
from  c  to  d.    Press  back  the  leg,  and  sever  the    method  of 
thigh-bone  from  the  back.     This  joint  lies  farther    e^Ttire^uck 
back  in  the  duck  and  goose  than  in  the  turkey  or     is  served 
fowl.  hot 

3.  Cut  slices  from  the  breast,  following  the  dotted  lines 
e,  e.  Begin  at  the  lower  part  of  the  side,  and  work  up  to  the 
ridge  of  the  breast-bone.  The  slices  should  be  cut  slanting ;  if 
the  knife  is  carried  straight  down  it  gives  too  narrow  a  slice. 

4.  The  side-bone  will  be  found  by  inserting  the  knife  at/, 
and  following  the  dotted  line. 

The  side-bone  in  the  duck  is  short.   (See  Fig.  43,  df  d.) 
A  good  deal  of  rich,  juicy  meat  will  be  found  on  the  sides 
below  the  breast-bone.     These  portions  are  small,  and  can- 
not be  cut  in  regular  pieces  like  the  breast,  but  they  should 
be  utilized  by  serving  them  with  the  breast. 

The  shoulder-blade  will  be  found  under  the  wings.  The 
back  may  be  divided  into  two  parts,  if  it  is  to  be  served. 
If  the  duck  is  stuffed,  make  an  opening  in  the  apron  near/, 
and  serve  the  stuffing  from  here. 


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The  second  method  has  the  breast  taken  off  in  one  solid 
piece,  and  is  then  cut  into  suitable  portions. 

s       ,  Fig.  43  shows  the  position  of  the  joints  of  the 

method  of 


carving  a 
duck. 


wings  and  legs,  and  the  method  of  removing  the 
breast,  a  and  b  show  the  bones  where  the  wing 
is  disjointed,  c  shows  where  the  leg-bone  is  at- 
tached to  the  body;  d,  d,  the  side-bone.  The  dotted  line  e,  e, 
is  in  a  line  with  the  ridge  in  the  breast-bone,  and  shows 


Fig.  42. 

where  the  breast  is  cut  down  to  the  bone;  the  knife  is  then 
slipped  under  it  and  worked  close  to  the  bone  until  the  entire 
piece  of  meat  may  be  lifted  off  the  bone.  The  lines  /,  /, 
show  the  method  of  dividing  this  piece  of  breast. 

The  carver  will  do  well  to  study  this  cut  carefully,  that 
he  may  become  perfectly  familiar  with  the  joints  of  the 
wings,  legs,  and  side-bones. 

Note.— The  drawings  for  the  carving  of  the 
ducks  were  made  at  different  times;  the  second 
duck  was  shorter  and  plumper  than  the  first. 

Roast  Goose.— The  only  difference  in  carving  a 
goose  and  a  duck  is  that,  the  former  being  larger, 
the  leg  and  wing  are  divided  into  two  or  more  parts. 


The  carver 
should  be 
familiar 

with  joints 
of  wings, 
legs,  and 

side-bones. 


THE  ART  OF  CARVING  219 

Boast  Grouse.— The  wings  of  this  bird  are  generally  clipped 
off  close  to  the  body  before  it  is  cooked.     In  a  ceremonious 

dinner  the  legs  are  not _______^^ 

served.     When  the  bird     /^PTT\\\'\   i    ^^^L 

is  young  the  legs  are  a  f/XXS  \  \  \  \ Jkl^^^ri%Sk\ 
desirable  portion,  the  fla-  U  jljPI?^  S  I  i ^^^^^7f",',j0^ 
vor  being  delicious.  aS§^~#' m  :       'Icf^^F^ 

Cut  the  breast  in  slices   (J^^^^^Mi^^K^^E^^ 
parallel  with  the  breast-    ^^^•^^Tiy  ^^00^^ 
bone.  Each  breast  should  Fig43. 

give   from  six   to  eight 

slices.  Serve  a  little  bread-sauce  and  fried  crumbs  at  the 
side  of  each  portion.  At  some  tables  each  person  is  served 
with  half  a  breast;  this  is  hardly  to  be  recommended. 

Ptarmigan  and  Partridge  are  carved  and  served  like  grouse. 

Pigeons  and  Quail. — These  birds  are  often  served  Small 
whole,  or  they  may  be  divided  into  two  parts.  In  blrds- 
that  case  cut  through  the  breast  and  backbone  lengthwise. 

All  small  birds  are  served  whole. 


GENERAL   REMARKS   ON   SERVING   FISH 

Steel  imparts  a  disagreeable  flavor  to  cooked  fish;  never 
use  a  steel  knife  or  fork  in  serving  it. 

The  fat  portions  of  fish  are  usually  found  in  the    The  **  **&■ 
thin  flank  or  belly.     The  gelatinous  portions  are      pJJrti  of 
near  the  head  and  neck.     It  is  for  this  reason  that        fish, 
cod's  head  is  so  much  esteemed  by  many  persons.     The  tail 
is  also  gelatinous,  and  is  much  more  delicate  than  the  head 
and  neck. 

Small   fish,    like   smelts,    brook-trout,   perch,    etc.,    are 
served  whole.     Fish  like   mackerel,  lake-trout,    gmall  fish 
carp,  salmon-trout,  shad,  etc.,  are  cut  through  the 
body,  bone  and  all,  as  indicated  in  Fig.  44,  thus  giving  a  thick 
slice;  or  serve  one  side,  remove  the  bone,  and  serve  the  other. 


220 


HOME  ECONOMICS 


Cod,  haddock,  bluefish,  etc.,  when  small,  are  served  in  the 

same  manner.     When  large,  the  portions  are  cut  from  one 

side;  the  bone  is  then  lifted  and  sent  from  the 

dock,  blue-    table,  and  the  under  part  is  served.     Be  careful, 

fish,  etc.     when  serving  fish,  to  keep  the  flakes  unbroken. 


Fig.  44- 


Fig.  45- 


Cod's  Head  and  Shoulder.— There  being  three  choices  in 
cod's  head  and  shoulder  (Fig.  45),— (6,  e,  d)  the  neck,  (c)  the 
flank,  and  (a)  the  firm  white  flakes,— the  guest  should  be 
asked  which  part  he  prefers. 

When  serving  fish  containing  roe,  serve  a  small  piece  with 
each  portion. 


Fig.  46. 


Fig.  47. 


All  large  fish,  like  salmon,  halibut,  swordfish,  etc.,  should 
be  carved  as  indicated  in  Fig.  46.  a,  b  is  the  back,  where 
T        -  .     will  be  found  the  firm,  large  flakes;  c,  d  is  the  flank, 

Large  fish,        ,.,.-.         ,       ,    .. 

like  saim-    which  is  fat  and  gelatinous. 
°n»  htjk"         All  flatfish  have,  like  flounder,  plaice,  chicken 
halibut,  etc.,  a  large  flat  bone  running  through 
the  center,  and  when  large  they  should  be  carved  as  indi- 
cated in  Fig.  47. 

1.  Cut  through  to  the  bone  from  a  to  b. 

2.  Slip  the  knife  between  the  flakes  and  the  bone,  then 
begin  cutting  at  c,  d.    Slip  the  knife  under  the  portion,  and 


THE  ART  OF  CARVING  221 

place  it  on  the  plate  without  disturbing  its  form.  Do  the 
other  half  of  the  side  in  the  same  manner.  The  bone  will 
now  be  exposed;  lift  it  up  and  send  it  from  the  table.  Serve 
the  under  part  in  small  fillets,  the  same  as  the  upper  part  is 
served. 

When  the  fish  is  small,  make  four  fillets  of  it,— that  is, 
simply  remove  the  top  in  two  sections,— and  when  the  bone 
is  lifted  serve  the  under  part  in  two  pieces. 


CHAPTER  XI 

FOOD 

Brief  outline  of  the  processes  of  digestion.  Fruits.  Fats.  Principles  un- 
derlying the  cooking  of  albuminous  substances.  Principles  underlying 
the  cooking  of  vegetable  substances.  The  manipulation  of  materials. 
Flavors  and  odors.  Economy  in  food.  Growth  and  repair.  Heat  and 
force.     Vegetables  with  little  or  no  starch. 

The  food  question  is  a  complicated  one,  and  in  dealing  with 
it  one  must  look  at  its  many  sides:  (1)  cost;  (2)  nutritive  value 
of  different  substances;  (3)  seasons;  (4)  climate;  (5)  age; 
(6)  occupation;  (7)  eccentricities  of  taste  and  digestion. 
The  object  In  providing  food  for  any  number  of  people,  the 
°iiwfood"  °kJect  f°r  wnicn  ft  *s  employed  should  be  consid- 
should  be  ered.  Primarily  the  use  of  food  is  to  supply  ma- 
considered,    terial  for  the  growth  and  repair  of  the  animal  body, 

Every  an(j  to  gjve  heat  an(j  vjtai  force#  Incidentally, 
er  should  among  civilized  humanity,  it  contributes  largely 
havesome    to  the  social  life. 

orthe  6        Each  meal  should  supply  the  proper  elements 

change      for  each  of  these  requirements.     Every  house- 
'riai^u!^"    keeper  who  would  provide  her  family  with  food 
dergo  in      suitable  for  the  maintenance  of  physical  and  men- 
cooking.      |.aj  vjg0r  must  know  something  of  the  principles 
of  nutrition  and  digestion,  and  have  some  knowledge  of  the 
changes  the  raw  materials  undergo  in  cooking. 

222 


POOD  223 

It  is  claimed  that  the  ordinary  housekeeper  has  not  time  to 
study  these  subjects.  It  is  almost  the  work  of  a  lifetime  to  mas- 
ter any  one  of  the  sciences,  but  any  intelligent  woman  may  learn 
the  essential  principles  underlying  the  science  of  nutrition. 

The  market  value  of  food  materials  does  not,  as  a  rule, 
indicate  their  nutritive  value.    For  example,  there 
is  more  nutrition  in  a  pound  of  a  flank  of  beef  than   value  does 
in  a  pound  of  tenderloin  from  the  same  animal;  yet  not  indicate 
the  tenderloin  will  cost  three  or  four  times  as       vaine 
much  as  the  flank  piece. 

It  must  be  remembered,  however,  that  it  often  happens 
that  food  materials  that  are  rich  in  nutritive  qualities  are 
difficult  of  digestion  and  require  careful  treatment  to  make 
them  a  satisfactory  food. 

The  most  important  food  principles  have  been  divided  by 
scientists  into  two  general  divisions,  and  these  are  again 
subdivided.    The  two  great  divisions  are  compre- 
hended under  nitrogenous  compounds  and  carbon     ^itr°ge". 
compounds.  pounds  and 

The  nitrogenous  compounds  are  absolutely  ne-      carbon 
cessary  for  the  growth  and  repair  of  the  living  an-      pounds, 
imal,  and  it  is  possible  to  live  upon  animal  food 
alone.     The  carbon  compounds  give  heat  and  force,  but  they 
alone  cannot  sustain  life  for  any  great  length  of  time. 

The  nitrogenous  compounds  include  albumin,  fibrin,  and 
casein.  Lean  meat,  eggs,  milk,  and  fish  are  the  sources 
from  which  we  get  nitrogenous  foods  in  the  most  concen- 
trated and  digestible  forms.  Some  vegetable  substances  are 
rich  in  nitrogen,  while  others  are  almost  destitute  of  this 
important  element. 

The  carbon  compounds  include  starch,  sugar,  fats,  etc. 
Although  these  foods  are  not  absolutely  essential  to  life, 
they  are  of  great  value  in  supplying  heat  and  energy,  and 
are  less  exciting  and  more  economical  food  than  all  nitrog- 
enous materials. 


224  HOME  ECONOMICS 

The  digestive  organs  of  a  human  being  provide  for  the> 
digestion  of  both  carbon  and  nitrogenous  compounds,  so< 
that  nature  designed  that  all  these  elements  should 
T1menuly  enter  mt°  the  nutrition  of  mankind.  It  is  essen- 
shouid  con-  tial,  then,  that  the  daily  menu  should  consist  of  a 
sist  of  a  pr0per  proportion  of  these  two  great  divisions  and 
portion  of  the  phosphates  and  other  inorganic  salts  and 
these  two     water. 

sions.  Nitrogenous  Substances  are  composed  of  four 

elements— carbon,  hydrogen,  oxygen,  and  nitro- 
gen. They  are  also  known  as  proteid  substances,  because 
protoplasm  enters  into  the  composition  of  the  cells  of  the 
organism.  Another  name  by  which  they  are  known  is  albumi- 
nous substances,  because  they  belong  to  the  series  of  sub- 
stances of  which  the  white  of  egg  is  taken  as  a  type.  Some- 
times, too,  they  are  called  flesh-like  substances,  because  the 
muscles  of  the  body  are  composed  of  these  four  elements. 
These  explanations  are  for  the  young  people,  who  are  so  often 
confused  by  the  multiplicity  of  names  for  the  same  thing. 
Nitrogenous  substances  are  flesh-formers.  This  term  is 
often  used  in  dietaries.  In  nature  nitrogenous  foods  are 
nearly  always  mixed  with  other  food  principles.  In  animal 
foods  there  is  always  fat,  various  salts,  and  sometimes  sul- 
phur and  phosphorus.  The  casein  of  milk,  the  vegetable 
casein  of  pease,  beans,  nuts,  etc.,  and  the  gluten  of  flour 
all  come  under  the  head  of  albuminous  or  nitrogenous  sub- 
stances. 

The  Carbon  Compounds  are  composed  of  carbon,  hydrogen, 
and  oxygen.  They  are  divided  into  two  classes —carbohy- 
drates and  hydrocarbons. 

Carbohydrates  are  so  called  because  the  hydrogen  and 
oxygen  are  in  the  right  proportion  to  produce  water.  This 
division  of  the  carbon  compounds  includes  starch,  dextrine, 
gum,  and  sugar. 

Hydrocarbons.— The   fats  belong  to   this  group.    They 


FOOD  225 

ontain  more  carbon  than  the  carbohydrates,  and  hence 
ield  more  heat  and  force. 

The  carbon  compounds  are  sometimes  called  combustible 
ood,  because  they  are  burned  in  the  body  to  produce  heat 
nd  force.  Mineral 

Besides  the  nitrogenous  and  carbon  compounds,        foods 
here  is  another  class  of  food  that  is  essential  to     ^nde  ^£ 
he  health  of  all  living  animals  and  vegetables,     ter,  lime, 
'hese  are  the  mineral  foods,  and  include  water,     sa  are*0*' 
:me,  salt,  etc.  essential. 


BRIEF   OUTLINE   OF   THE   PROCESSES   OF   DIGESTION 

In  the  selection,  preparation,  and  serving  of  the  food  the 
ousekeeper  and  cook  have  a  serious  duty  to  perform.  It  is 
ot  sufficient  that  enough  of  some  sort  of  food  be  given;  it 
mst  be  of  the  right  kind,  properly  prepared,  and,  so  far  as 
t  lies  in  their  power,  served  in  such  a  manner  that  it  shall 
ppeal  to  the  eye  and  palate. 

The  manner  of  preparing,  serving,  and  eating  food  has  a 
larked  effect  on  the  digestive  organs.  Every  housekeeper 
nd  cook  should  have  a  clear  understanding  of  House- 
men, where,  and  how  each  food  principle  is  di-  keeper  and 
;ested,  that  in  cooking  the  combinations  and  pro-  ^JmJjjJJ 
esses  shall  be  such  that  some  of  the  organs  shall  knowledge 
ot  be  made  to  do  double  work.     As  a  rule,  the      of  diges- 

j,  Hon. 

tomach  is  the  overworked  organ.    The  organs  of 

igestion  are  the  alimentary  canal,  and  several  sets  of  glands, 

mich  produce  the  digestive  fluids. 

The  Alimentary  Canal  consists  of  five  parts— the  mouth, 
sophagus,  stomach,  small  intestine,  and  large  intestine, 
^here  are  four  digestive  fluids— saliva,  gastric  juice,  bile,  and 
lancreatic  juice. 

The  Saliva,  which  is  formed  in  the  mouth,  acts  on  starch, 
hanging  some  of  it  to  sugar  and  dextrine. 

15 


226  HOME   ECONOMICS 

Gastric  Juice,  which  is  produced  by  the  lining  membrane 
of  the  stomach,  acts  upon  albuminous  matter,  and  is  thought 
not  to  act  upon  any  other  food  principle. 

Bile,  which  is  one  of  the  products  of  the  liver,  neutralizes 
the  acidity  of  the  partially  digested  food  as  it  passes  out  of 
the  stomach.     It  also  acts  upon  the  fats. 

Pancreatic  Juice.— This  is  the  most  important  of  the  four 
digestive  fluids,  for  it  acts  upon  all  the  food  principles. 

The  Process  of  Digestion  is,  briefly,  this: 

1.  The  food  is  ground  to  fine  particles  in  the  mouth,  and 
in  the  process  of  mastication  it  is  mixed  with  saliva,  which 
acts  on  starch,  but  on  no  other  substance.  It  is,  however, 
a  valuable  aid  in  making  the  food  pass  through  the  esopha- 
gus with  ease. 

2.  The  food  enters  the  stomach,  and  is  rolled  about  by  the 
muscular  contraction  of  the  coat  of  the  stomach.  In  this 
way  it  is  broken  up,  and  every  part  brought  in  contact  with 
the  gastric  juice.  The  gastric  juice  acts  on  albuminous 
matter,  but  on  no  other  food  principle.  It  dissolves  the  albu- 
min in  meat,  bread,  vegetables,  etc.,  leaving  the  starch  and 
fats  free.  Some  of  the  perfectly  digested  food  is  absorbed 
in  the  stomach,  but  the  greater  portion  passes  into  the  small 
intestine  in  an  acid,  semi-liquid  mass;  this  is  called  chyme. 

3.  The  bile  and  pancreatic  juice  mix  with  the  chyme,  con- 
verting the  starch  into  sugar,  the  fats  into  a  fine  emulsion, 
and  dissolve  any  albuminous  substance  that  was  not  digested 
by  the  gastric  juice.  This  new  product  is  called  chyle,  and 
is  absorbed  by  the  villi,  and  so  passes  into  the  circulation. 

From  this  brief  sketch  it  will  be  seen  that 
sity^f8"    thorough  mastication  is  necessary,  that  the  starch 
thorough     may  be  acted  upon  by  the  saliva,  and  that  the 
mtion!a"     ^00(*  sna^  ^e  so  finely  divided  that  parts  will  sep- 
arate easily  and  the  gastric  juice  may  begin  its 
legitimate  work  at  once. 
When  the  food  is  not  properly  masticated  the  stomach 


FOOD  227 

)wers  are  wasted,  in  breaking  it  up,  before  the  real  work 

!  digestion  begins. 

In  the  preparation  of  food  the  fact  must  be  kept  in  mind 

iat  the  gastric  juice  acts  only  on  albuminous  matter.     If 

ts,  starch,  and  albumin  are  so  intimately  com- 

ned  that  the  stomach  powers  are  taxed  with    j^^l^ 

e  task  of  separating  them,  it  will  be  putting  a    only  on  ai- 

irden  of  work  on  this  organ  that  will  weaken  it      Ufo0^ous 

time.     It  is  for  this  reason  that  fried  food, 
istry,  etc.,  are  so  difficult  of  digestion,  especially  when  badly 
•oked.     All  albuminous  food  should  be  cooked  so  that 
e  fibers  are   softened  rather  than  hardened.     Digestion 
Raw  starch  is  hardly  acted  upon  by  the  diges-     °f  starch 
ie  fluids,  and  passes  out  of  the  system  nearly     an    a  ' 
e  same  as  it  entered.     The  more  thoroughly  it  is  cooked, 
e  more  easily  it  is  digested. 

Fat  that  has  not  been  cooked,  or  that  was  cooked  at  a 
w  temperature,  as,  for  example,  butter,  oils,  the  fat  on 
•iled  meats,  etc.,  are  easily  digested,  if  not  taken  in  too 
rge  a  quantity.  Filling  the  stomach  with  liquids  while 
ting  dilutes  the  gastric  juice  and  so  weakens  its  action  on 
od. 

Too  much  food  in  the  stomach  at  once  inter-  Conditions 
res  with  digestion.  Excessive  fatigue,  anger,  andunfat 
)rry,  anxiety,  etc.,  all  have  a  tendency  to  stop  vorable  to 
e  flow  of  gastric  juice,  and  hence  interfere  with  diSestIon' 
gestion.  It  should  be  the  duty  and  pleasure  of  every  one 
make  the  hours  at  table  social,  bright,  and  happy,  and  thus 
y  up  a  store  of  physical  and  mental  health  for  the  serious 
)rk  of  life. 

FRUITS 

With  the  exception  of  nuts,  the  nutritive  value  of  fresh 
aits  is  not  great,  but  as  a  regulator  of  the  system  they  are 
:ceedingly  valuable.    Dried  fruits,  like  dried  vegetables, 


Fresh  fruits  differ  in  their  effects  upon  the 


228  HOME  ECONOMICS 

are  richer  in  nutrients  than  the  fresh,  but  they  do  not  hav< 

the  same  refreshing  powers  that  the  fresh,  juicy  fruit  has 

Fruits,  when  eaten  under-ripe  or  over-ripe,  disarrange  the 

digestive  organs. 

Nearly  all  fruits  are  best  when  allowed  to  ripen  on  th< 

tree  or  vine.     Pears  are  an  exception  to  this. 

Fruit  keeps  best  in  a  cool,  dry,  dark  place.    II 

^andhow*'    *s  necessary  to  examine  stored  fruit  frequently 

theyshould   because  decay  is  contagious 
be  pre- 
served. 

digestive  organs.    For  most  people  pears,  apples 

plums,  and  grapes  are  a  laxative,  while  peaches  and  straw 

berries  have  an  opposite  effect.     These  properties  are  ver] 

much  modified  by  cooking.     Except  fruit  be  ripe  enough 

and  not  over-ripe,  it  is  in  a  more  healthful  condition  cooked 

There  are  a  few  points  in  regard  to  fruits  which  ever] 

housekeeper  should  know. 

Some  fruits  require  very  little  sugar  in  cooking,  whil< 

there  are  others  that  are  very  poor  if  a  good  deal  of  sugai 

is  not  used.     Some  of  the  fruits  that  require  i 

tityofsugar  g°°d  deal  °f  sugar  are  strawberries,  cranberries 

and  its      plums,  tart  apples,  currants,  and  gooseberries 

G  fruits.n     ^he  fruits  that  are  better  with  only  a  very  little 

or  moderate  amount  of  sugar  are  raspberries 

blackberries,  peaches,  pears,  quinces,  etc.     Nearly  all  fruits 

are  of  better  color  and  flavor,  and  of  a  more  tender  texture, 

if  the  sugar  is  added  when  they  are  first  put  on  to  cook. 

Hard  fruits,  such  as  quinces,  must  be  made  tender  ii 

clear  water  before  the  sugar  is  added.     Some  fruits  will  be 

improved  by  long  cooking,  while  others  would  be  spoiled  bj 

Method  of    **"s  process.     Fruits  that  will  endure  long,  slo^ 

cooking     cooking  will  not  as  a  rule  require  as  much  sugar  as 

fruits       tnose  ^at  must  be  cooked  quickly.  The  dried  fruits, 

such  as  peaches,  apricots,  and  apples,  if  cooked 

long  enough,  will  require  very  little  sugar.     Prunes  should 


FOOD  229 

iever  have  sugar  added  to  them.  Wash  all  dried  fruit  care- 
ully,  and  cover  generously  with  cold  water.  Let  it  soak 
vernight.  In  the  morning  put  it  on  to  cook  in  the  water 
n  which  it  was  soaked.  Add  the  sugar,  if  any  is  used,  and 
ook  slowly  two  or  more  hours.  A  good  way  is  to  put  the 
ruit  and  liquid  in  an  earthen  dish  which  can  be  covered. 
Jake  in  a  very  moderate  oven. 

The  proportions  of  water  and  dried  fruit  are,  to  one  pint 
f  fruit  one  pint  and  a  half  of  water. 

Prunes  are  better  not  soaked.  Wash  them  one  by  one, 
hen  rinse  in  two  more  waters.  Put  them  in  a  stew-pan, 
rith  a  pint  and  a  half  of  cold  water  to  each  pint  of  fruit, 
jet  them  simmer  for  two  hours  and  a  half.  Turn  them 
nto  a  bowl,  and  set  away  to  cool.  They  are  delicious 
ooked  in  this  manner. 


FATS 

Some  fat  is  necessary  to  the  maintenance  of  a  perfectly 
ealthy  body.  We  get  it  in  small  quantities  throughout 
he  lean  parts  of  meat,  and  in  all  good  meat  there  is  a 
;enerous  layer  of  fat  between  the  skin  and  the  muscular 
arts.  Some  of  this  .coating  of  fat  should  be  left  on  the 
leat  when  it  is  put  on  to  cook. 

I  think  that,  as  a  rule,  we  do  not  attach  enough  impor- 
ance  to  the  temperature  at  which  we  cook  fats,  nor  do  we 
now  enough  about  the  temperature  at  which  the 
liferent  fats  will  burn  or  be  so  changed  as  to  be      tanceo"f 
'ritants  in  the  digestive  organs.  tempera- 

It  is  safe  to  say  that  the  lower  the  temperature  KjJjL 
t  which  a  fat  can  be  cooked  and  have  the  flavor  are  cooked, 
eveloped,  the  more  easily  it  will  be  digested. 
Ve  all  know  how  cooking  changes  the  flavor  of  butter,  sev- 
ral  of  the  volatile  acids  which  contribute  to  its  flavor  being 
roken  up  and  driven  off. 


230  HOME  ECONOMICS 

The  flavor  of  the  ordinary  fats  is  improved  by  proper 
cooking;  but  if  the  temperature  be  raised  too  high,  an  irri-i 
tating,  fatty  acid  is  developed,  as  witness  the  difference* 
between  a  delicate  brown,  crisp  piece  of  fat  on  a  roast  and 
the  disagreeable  acrid  flavor  of  the  fat  which  has  been  sub- 
jected to  a  high  temperature. 

When  there  is  water  mixed  with  fat  it  cannot  be  raised  to 

as  high  a  temperature  as  if  the  fat  were  pure.     It  is  for  this 

reason  that  we  put  water  in  the  dripping-pan,  and 

nS^ed      baste  the  meat  frequently  with  the  mixture  of 

with  fat     water  and  fat.     This  keeps  the  temperature  of 

keeps  the     ^e  surface  of  the  piece  of  meat  lower  than  it 

tureiow.     would  otherwise  be,  and  the  digestibility  of  the 

roast  is  infinitely  greater  than  it  would  be  if  it 

were  basted  with  the  clear  hot  fat  that  dropped  from  the 

meat. 

In  all  kitchens  more  or  less  frying  is  done,  and  it  is  im- 
portant that  it  should  be  done  properly. 

Putting  a  substance  to  cook  in  a  pan  with  half  an  inch  or 
more  of  fat  is  the  most  unhealthful  and  extravagant  mode 
of  cooking.  The  portions  of  the  food  that  are 
easily,  ec£  exposed  to  a  current  of  air  are  kept  at  such  a  low 
nomicaiiy,  temperature  that  they  absorb  the  fat. 
^Miy^"  To  flT  economically,  healthfully,  and  with  the 
least  possible  amount  of  work,  it  is  necessary  to 
have  fat  enough  to  immerse  the  article.  Then,  too,  it  is 
essential  that  you  know  the  qualities  of  the  fats  and  make 
a  proper  selection;  and,  again,  that  you  know  the  tempera- 
ture at  which  different  articles  cook  and  at  which  the  differ- 
ent fats  burn. 

The  purer  the  fat— that  is  to  say,  the  more  oil  there  is 
in  it— the  higher  the  degree  to  which  it  can  be  raised  with- 
out burning. 

Butter  burns  at  the  lowest  temperature,  and  olive-oil  at 
the  highest. 


FOOD  231 

Here  is  a  table  of  the  burning-points  of  the  fats  most 
commonly  employed  for  frying  purposes: 

F. 
Butter 266°     Tempera- 

t"TTyp    of 

Beef,  veal,  and  mutton  suet 302°  which  dif. 

Drippings,  i.  e.,  the  fat  from  soups,  roasts,  ferent  fats 

etc.,  clarified 336°  burn' 

Goose-grease 500° 

Lard 392° 

Olive-oil     .     .     . 608° 

It  will  be  seen  from  this  table  that  butter  is  the  poorest 
material,  and  olive-oil  the  best,  for  frying  purposes. 

Butter  can,  by  clarifying,  be  made  to  stand  a  higher  tem- 
perature than  266°.     This  is  done  by  heating  the  butter 
slowly,  skimming  it,  and  letting  it  rest  on  the  fire 
until  the  casein  has  coagulated  and  fallen  to  the      ^^f10 
bottom,  then  pouring  off  the  clear  oily  substance.       butter. 
The  French  prepare  their  butter  in  this  manner 
for  sautering  and  frying.     Salt  raises  the  temperature  and 
causes  the  butter  to  burn.     It  should  be  washed  out  of  but- 
ter that  is  to  be  used  in  sautering  or  frying.     The  French 
mix  lard  with  butter  for  frying  purposes. 

It  will  be  seen  that,  next  to  butter,  the  suet  from  beef, 
mutton,  and  veal  burns  at  a  low  temperature. 

Drippings,  because  they  are  the  most  liquid  parts  of  the 
fats  of  roasted  and  boiled  meats,  have  a  larger  proportion  of 
oil  than  either  suet  or  butter,  and  therefore  burn  at  a  higher 
temperature.  A  combination  of  drippings  and  lard  is  the 
most  satisfactory.  Many  persons  object  to  lard  on  the  score 
of  its  being  a  product  of  pork;  but  it  is  certainly  more  health- 
ful for  frying  purposes  than  the  suets,  because  it  can  be 
heated  to  a  higher  temperature,  searing  the  article  at  once, 
and  thus  giving  a  food  comparatively  free  from  grease. 

In  heating  fat  for  frying,  one  must  always  consider  the 


232  HOME   ECONOMICS 

nature  of  the  article  to  be  fried.     For  example,  a  tempera- 
ture that  would  be  right  for  breaded  fish,  oysters,  or  cro- 
quettes would  burn  the  outside  of  doughnuts, 
ofthe116    fritters,  or  any  batter,  while  the  inside  remained 
article  to  be   raw.     Again,  it  must  be  remembered  that  a  very 
regulate^    co^  or  watery  article  will  lower  the  temperature 
the  tem-     quickly,  and  only  a  small  portion  should  be  put  in 
peratnreof      +      f- 
the  fat.       at  a  lime' 

This  is  especially  true  of  fish,  because  some  of 

the  water  escapes  into  the  fat  during  the  cooking. 

When  frying  fish,  fish-balls,  egg-plant,  or  any  watery 
article,  it  will  generally  be  found  that  after  the  second  batch 
has  been  cooked  the  fat  will  be  full  of  bubbles  of  steam,  and 
will  no  longer  fry  an  article  crisp  and  brown.  The  fat  must 
be  kept  hot  until  every  particle  of  water  has  evaporated. 
Then  it  will  do  its  work  as  well  as  ever. 

If  one  attempts  to  fry  in  fat  that  is  saturated  with  water, 
the  product  will  be  a  grease-soaked  article,  which  is  not  fit 
for  the  stomach  of  man  or  beast. 

Great  care  is  required  to  keep  fat  in  a  good  condition. 

Here  is  a  rule  that,  if  followed,  will  secure  good  results: 

Rule  for         1-  The  moment  you  have  finished  frying,  set 

care  of  fry-    the  kettle  back  in  a  cooler  place:  do  not  wait  an 
ingfat.      .     ,  r 

^  instant. 

2.  If  water  gets  into  the  fat,  cook  it  gently  until  all 
motion  ceases. 

3.  If  the  fat  gets  too  hot  before  you  are  ready  to  use  it, 
put  in  a  handful  of  raw  sliced  potatoes. 

4.  If  there  is  a  good  deal  of  foreign  substance  in  it,  add 
two  or  three  raw  potatoes  cut  in  slices. 

5.  When  cool,  but  still  in  liquid,  strain  through  cheese- 
cloth. 

6.  Keep  a  separate  fat  for  fish. 

How  to  Determine  the  Temperature  of  Fat.— l.  For  all 
breaded  meats,  a  faint  blue  smoke  rising  from  the  center, 


FOOD  233 

and  a  suggestion  of  a  movement  on  the  surface;  it  is  like  a 
pencil-mark. 

2.  For  fried  potatoes,  a  very  little  stronger  smoke. 

3.  For  fish  and  watery  articles,  a  still  stronger  smoke. 
How  to  Use  the  Various  Kitchen  Fats.— In  all  kitchens 

there  is  a  certain  amount  of  fats  which  must  be  disposed 
of  in  some  way. 

All  the  fat  from  beef,  veal,  pork,  and  chickens  can  be 
used  in  cooking.     They  should  be  rendered  carefully,  not 
allowing  them  to  get  too  hot.  Strain  them  through    H 
cheese-cloth,  and  keep  for  use  in  frying  or  in  pre-    the  various 
paring  many  of  the  soups  or  ragouts  that  call  for      kitchen 
butter. 

The  fat  from  bacon,  ham,  and  sausages  can  be  used  for 
frying  potatoes  and  hominy.  These  fats  can  be  used  instead 
of  butter  in  some  of  the  savory  sauces  made  for  vegetables. 

The  fat  from  mutton,  lamb,  turkey,  duck,  and  goose  goes 
into  the  soap-grease,  being  too  strong-flavored  to  use  in 
cooking. 

It  is  well  to  have  a  cake  of  mutton  tallow  to  use  on 
chapped  hands  and  on  rusted  articles,  and  also  to  save  a 
bottle  of  clear  goose-oil  to  use  in  case  of  sickness. 

All  fats  used  for  frying  should  be  thoroughly  clarified. 
To  clarify  fat,  keep  it  at  a  gentle  heat  until  there  is  not  a 
bubble  to  be  seen,  and  all  sediment  has  fallen  to 
the  bottom,  leaving  a  clear  oil.     Strain  this,  and    ciarifyfa°ts. 
keep  in  a  dry,  cool  place. 

If  the  fat  which  has  been  used  in  frying  has  become  dark, 
put  it  in  a  stew-pan  with  several  quarts  of  water,  and  heat 
it  to  the  boiling-point;  then  pour  it  into  a  large  pan,  and 
add  several  quarts  of  cold  water.  Set  in  a  cold  place. 
When  the  fat  has  formed  in  a  cake  on  top  of  the  water,  take 
off  and  put  into  the  frying-pan.  Heat  gently,  and  cook 
until  it  has  ceased  to  bubble  and  the  sediment  has  fallen  to 
the  bottom.     Partially  cool,  and  strain.     Remember  that  as 


234  HOME  ECONOMICS 

long  as  there  is  a  bubble  there  is  water,  and  the  fat  will  not 
answer  for  frying  while  it  contains  water,  nor  will  it  keep 
well. 

Solid  pieces  of  fat,  like  the  trimmings  of  beef,  mutton, 
veal,  pork,  etc.,  should  be  cut  in  small  pieces  and  rendered 
with  a  gentle  heat. 

Take  as  much  care  in  rendering  and  straining  the  soap- 
grease  as  that  for  cooking  purposes. 

Mutton  fat  makes  the  hardest  and  whitest  soap,  but  all 
kinds  can  be  used. 

Butter  absorbs  odors  more  readily  than  any 
T°  *  v?bte£   °tner  fat-     Owing  to  the  water,  buttermilk,  and 

ter.        other  substances  left  in  it,  it  often  becomes  ran- 
cid.    If  the  butter  be  thoroughly  washed  in  lime- 
water,  and  then  rinsed  in  clear  water,  it  will  become  sweet 
again.     Sometimes  a  little  chloride  of  lime  is  used  instead 
of  quicklime. 

PRINCIPLES   UNDERLYING   THE   COOKING   OF   ALBUMINOUS 
SUBSTANCES 

Albuminous  matter  is  of  various  kinds,  and  is  found  in 
animal  and  vegetable  substances.  In  their  natural  condi- 
tion some  of  the  albumins  are  liquid,  some  are  solid,  and 
there  are  others  that  have  a  consistency  between  the  two. 

Coagulation  is  one  of  the  properties  of  albumin.    Different 

kinds  of  albumin  solidify  under  different  conditions,  but  heat 

has  the  power  of  coagulating  nearly  all  albuminous 

The  coagu-    substances. 
lation  of 

albumin.         Only  a  small  portion  of  the  casein  of  milk  co- 
agulates when  subjected  to  heat;  but  if  the  milk 
be  heated  to  100°  and  an  acid  is  added,  it  will  coagulate,  as 
is  the  case  when  we  make  rennet  custard.     This  solidified 
mass  will  be  soft,  creamy,  and  digestible. 

If  the  milk  is  raised  to  the  boiling-point,  and  the  acid 


FOOD  235 

added,  the  albumin  will  be  coagulated,  but  the  product  will 
be  quite  different  from  that  obtained  by  adding  the  acid  to 
the  milk  at  100°.  The  higher  temperature  hardens  the 
albumin,  which  separates  from  the  water,  thus  giving  a 
curd  and  whey.  The  longer  the  cooking  is  continued  at  this 
high  temperature,  the  tougher  the  curd  will  become,  and 
the  clearer  the  whey. 

The  fibrin  in  the  blood  coagulates  on  exposure  to  the  air, 
and  also  when  subjected  to  heat.  The  albumin  in  lean  meat 
and  in  the  white  of  an  egg  coagulates  on  exposure  to  heat. 

Albuminous  substances,  when  cooked  at  a  temperature 
below  the  boiling-point,  will  be  soft  and  digestible.  When 
cooked  at  a  temperature  of  212°  or  higher,  the  albumin  be- 
comes hard  and  indigestible.  The  purer  the  albumin,  the 
more  marked  is  this  condition. 

To  illustrate  this,  we  will  take  milk  and  eggs.  When  we 
make  a  curd  and  whey,  we  always  find  that  the  curd  made 
with  skim-milk  is  much  tougher  than  that  made  M-11r  d 
with  whole  milk;  if  a  little  cream  is  added  to  the  eggs  taken 
milk  the  curd  will  be  still  softer.  Thus  cheese  t0^^e 
made  with  skim-milk  is  hard;  that  made  with  tompera- 
whole  milk  is  richer  and  softer;  and  that  made  tureon 
with  whole  milk  and  some  cream  is  still  softer. 

We  boil  an  egg  hard,  and  break  it  up.  The  white  will  be 
hard  and  horny,  while  the  yolk  will  be  light  and  crumbly. 
The  white  of  an  egg  is  almost  pure  albumin,  while  the  yolk 
contains  nearly  twice  as  much  fatty  matter  as  it  does 
albumin;  hence  it  does  not  harden  into  a  solid  mass  like  the 
white. 

Albuminous  substance  in  lean  meat  is  always  mixed  with 
fatty  matter,  and  the  more  fat  there  is,  the  less  hard  will 
become  the  albumin  when  exposed  to  a  high  temperature. 
It  must  be  remembered,  however,  that  the  fat  in  the  yolk  of 
an  egg  and  in  milk  is  in  the  form  of  an  emulsion,  while  in 
lean  meat  it  is  in  separate  layers, 


236  HOME    ECONOMICS 

The  effect  of  cooking  upon  meat  is  to  coagulate  the 
albumin  and  fibrin,  and  to  gelatinize  the  tendons  and  con- 
nective tissue,  and  it  also  develops  flavor. 

Two  other  characteristics  of  albuminous  matter  are  the 

tendencies  to  fermentation  and  putrefaction.    The  conditions 

necessary  for  these  changes  are  heat  and  mois- 

dencyofal-    ture.     When  the  temperature  reaches  200°  or 

buminous     more,  fermentation  or  putrefaction  ceases.     I  do 

tofermen-8    not  know  at  what  point  below  200°  fermentation 

tation  and    or  putrefaction  begins,  but  I  am  quite  sure  that 

pUtionaC"     ft  would  not  be  safe  to  keep  any  animal  substance 

for  several  hours  in  a  closed  vessel  below  170°. 

I  speak  of  this  matter  now,  so  that  when  the  question  of 

slow  cooking  comes  up,  it  may  be  fully  understood  that  it 

must  not  be  too  slow. 

The  effect  of  heat  on  albuminous  as  on  all  other  substances 
is  not  only  to  effect  a  change  in  the  texture,  but  also  in  the 
flavor.  As  a  rule,  the  higher  the  temperature,  the  more 
pronounced  the  flavor.  This  development  of  flavor  is  quite 
important,  as  it  makes  the  food  more  appetizing,  and  one 
should  aim  to  cook  at  such  a  temperature  that  the  best 
flavors  shall  be  developed,  and  yet  that  the  albuminous  sub- 
stance shall  not  be  made  hard  and  indigestible. 

Test  to  ^0  snow  the  effect  of  heat  on  nearly  pure  albu- 

show  effect  min,  let  us  take  three  fresh  eggs  and  cook  them 
of  temper-    at  different  temperatures. 

ature  on 

textureand  Have  a  deep  saucepan  that  will  hold  one  pint  or 
flavor  of  iess#  put  one  egg  m  the  cold  saucepan,  and  pour 
albumin.  ..,    ,,        .  °&- .     .,.  ,  -,    , 

over  it  halt  a  pint  ot  boiling  water;  cover  and  place 

on  a  board  or  paper,  away  from  the  fire,  for  ten  minutes.  In 
a  few  seconds  the  cold  saucepan  and  the  egg  will  have  ab- 
sorbed twenty-two  degrees  of  heat  from  the  water,  leaving 
it  at  190°,  and  of  course  the  temperature  will  continue  to 
fall  in  the  ten  minutes  that  the  egg  is  cooking. 

Have  a  second  saucepan,  in  which  boil  half  a  pint  of 


POOD  237 

water;  put  an  egg  into  this  boiling  water,  and  immediately 
place  the  saucepan,  covered,  by  the  side  of  the  first.  In  a 
few  seconds  the  temperature  of  the  water  will  have  fallen  to 
200°,  the  egg  having  absorbed  twelve  degrees  of  heat.  Let 
this  egg  cook  ten  minutes. 

Put  the  third  egg  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  let 
it  boil  for  ten  minutes.  Then  open  all  three  eggs  and  put 
them  on  a  plate.  Examine  the  texture,  then  taste  for  the 
flavor,  using  butter  and  salt,  if  you  like.  All  three  eggs 
were  cooked  ten  minutes.  One  stood  after  a  few  seconds 
with  a  temperature  of  190°,  which  continued  to  lower  until 
the  egg  was  removed  from  the  water.  The  white  of  this  egg 
is  a  thick,  soft  curd,  the  yolk  very  liquid.  There  is  not  much 
flavor,  except  a  suggestion  of  rawness.  The  second  egg, 
that  was  dropped  into  the  boiling  water  which  fell  after  a 
few  seconds  to  a  temperature  of  200°,  has  a  pleasanter  flavor, 
the  white  is  firmer,  but  it  breaks  up  into  a  soft  mass  under 
slight  pressure;  the  yolk  is  slightly  thickened.  This  is  an 
ideally  soft-cooked  egg.  The  third  egg,  which  went  into  the 
boiling  water  and  boiled  all  the  time  (212°),  is  what  is  com- 
monly called  a  hard-boiled  egg.  The  white  is  a  smooth, 
hard  mass;  being  almost  pure  albumin,  there  is  nothing  to 
keep  its  particles  soft  when  exposed  to  the  temperature  of 
boiling  water.     The  yolk  of  the  egg  is  firm  and  mealy. 

This  experiment  teaches  us  (l)  that  pure  albumin  coagu- 
lates at  a  low  temperature  (the  average  is  about  165°),  but 
that  little  flavor  is  developed ;  (2)  that  at  a  little  higher  tem- 
perature (average  about  180°)  the  albumin,  although  a  little 
firmer,  is  still  soft  and  digestible,  and  is  better  flavored;  (3) 
that  when  cooked  at  a  temperature  of  212°  or  more  the 
albumin  becomes  hard,  horny,  and  indigestible. 

If  all  albuminous  substances  which  we  cook  were  as  free 
from  admixtures  as  the  white  of  egg,  we  could  say  that  the 
temperature  for  cooking  should  be  180°.  But  we  have  few 
substances  which  are  thus  pure. 


238  HOME   ECONOMICS 

In  cooking  meat,  it  must  be  remembered  that,  besides  the 
albumin,  we  are  dealing  also  with  tendons  and  connective 
What  to     tissue  (see  "Muscular  Fiber"),  which  require  a 
remember     higher  temperature  to  soften  and  dissolve  them. 
in  oooWng    About  202°  gives  the  best  result  as  to  the  texture 
and  tenderness  of  meat  cooked  in  water. 
When  a  bubble  of  air  or  steam  darts  up  from  the  bottom 
of  the  stew-pan  every  few  seconds,  the  temperature  of  the 
water  is  at  about  202°.     This  is  called  gentle  sim- 
mering?"   mermg,  or,  as  the  French  say,  a  "  modest  smile." 
All  boiled  or  stewed  meats  should  be  cooked  at 
this  temperature.     This  rule  applies  to  all  salted  meats, 
such  as  beef,  pork,  hams,  tongues,  etc.,  all  fresh  meats,  poul- 
try, and  fish. 

In  roasting,  broiling,  braizing,  etc.,  all  meats  should  be 

cooked  as  near  as  possible  at  the  simmering  temperature. 

It  is  important,  however,  that  fresh  meat  or  poul- 

ruies  for     try  snoul(*  be  hardened  on  the  surface,  that  the 

roasting,     juices  may  be  retained  in  the  meat.     To  do  this 

wjhf'      there  must  be  a  high  temperature  at  first.    As 

etc.  '     soon  as  a  thin  crust  is  formed  the  temperature 

should  be  lowered. 
All  animal  and  vegetable  food  is  more  healthful  when 
cooked  in  such  a  manner  that  some  of  the  gases  which  are 
formed  in  cooking  may  pass  off;  therefore  the  stew-pans 
should  never  be  covered  closely. 

In  roasting,  the  piece  of  meat  should  never  rest  on  the 
bottom  of  the  pan.  A  steel  or  wire  rack  should  be  placed  in 
the  pan,  and  the  meat  should  rest  on  this.  Meat  should 
never  be  basted  with  the  clear  hot  fat  that  drops  into  the 
pan;  a  piece  of  meat  that  has  been  saturated  in  this  manner 
with  hot  fat  must  be  indigestible.  Always  have  a  little  water 
in  the  pan  to  mingle  with  the  drippings.  The  water  keeps  the 
temperature  of  the  fat  low,  and  meat  cooked  in  an  oven  is 
improved  by  being  basted  with  such  a  mixture.     If  the 


FOOD  239 

foregoing  principles  are  fully  understood,  and  the  following 
general  rules  are  followed,  one  can  be  sure  of  having  all 
animal  food  as  tender  and  succulent  as  the  quality  of  the 
meat  will  admit. 

Note.— If  a  ham  be  taken  from  the  boiling  liquid  and 
plunged  at  once  into  cold  water,— ice-water  is  best,— the  fat 
hardens  white  and  firm,  giving  the  meat  a  fine  color. 

Boiled  Meats.— Put  the  piece  of  meat  or  poultry  into 
boiling  water,  and  boil  rapidly  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes; 
then  place  the  stew-pan  where  the  water  will  bubble  gently 
until  the  meat  is  done.  The  time  of  cooking  depends  upon 
the  kind  of  meat,  the  toughness,  etc.  Fresh  beef,  when 
required  to  be  well  done,  should  cook  about  five  hours; 
corned  beef,  tongue,  ham,  five  hours.  Should  the  piece  of 
beef  or  ham  weigh  over  ten  or  twelve  pounds,  allow  an  extra 
hour;  it  will  take  an  hour  for  the  heat  to  penetrate  to  the 
center  of  a  large,  solid  piece  of  meat.  For  fresh  meat  that  is 
to  be  served  rare,  like  mutton  and  beef,  the  time  depends 
upon  the  shape;  a  thin  piece  requires  less  time  than  a  thick 
piece.  A  leg  of  mutton  weighing  ten  pounds  will  be  cooked 
rare  in  an  hour  and  a  half;  medium  well  done  in  two  hours. 

Fowl  not  very  old  will  cook  in  an  hour  and  a  half;  but  a 
tough  one  may  take  two  or  three  hours.  A  turkey  weighing 
ten  pounds  should  cook  three  hours  and  a  half. 

The  cover  of  the  saucepan  should  be  drawn  a  little  to  one 
side,  all  through  the  cooking,  to  allow  the  escape  of  steam 
and  gases. 

Hams,  tongues,  corned  beef,  and  poultry,  that  are  not  to 
be  served  hot,  are  all  improved  by  partially  cooling  in  the 
water  in  which  they  were  boiled.  The  saucepan  must  be  set 
in  a  cool  place  (in  a  current  of  air,  if  possible),  and  the 
cover  must  be  removed.  The  more  rapidly  and  thoroughly 
the  cooling  is  done,  the  better  the  meat  and  broth  will  keep. 

Roasting.— Have  the  meat  exposed  to  a  high  temperature 
for  the  first  half-hour,  then  reduce  the  heat.     It  must  be 


240  HOME  ECONOMICS 

remembered  that  when  meat  or  any  other  substance  is 
cooked  in  a  liquid  which  covers  it,  the  temperature  of  the 
article  being  cooked  is  always  that  of  the  liquid 
turemore  *n  which  it  is  cooking.  In  roasting  and  broiling, 
constant  in  the  waves  of  heat  are  always  being  diluted  with 
hqin  air^  a*r  at  v^ious  temperatures.  This  must  be  taken 
into  account  when  cooking  in  the  oven,  or  be- 
fore, over,  or  under  the  fire.  It  would  not  be  possible  to 
roast  perfectly  in  an  oven  that  registered  202°.  The  tem- 
perature should  be  about  350°  when  the  meat  is  first  put  in. 
As  soon  as  the  meat  is  browned  on  all  sides  the  temperature 
should  be  lowered  by  the  closing  of  the  drafts,  and,  if  need 
be,  the  opening  of  the  checks;  but,  as  a  rule,  the  closing  of 
the  drafts  will  be  sufficient.  Basting  the  meat  frequently 
with  the  drippings  in  the  pan  will  drive  the  heat  to  the 
center  and  make  the  meat  juicy. 

Broiling.— The  same  principle  must  be  applied  to  broiling 
as  to  roasting:  first  great  heat  to  sear  the  surface,  then  slow 
cooking.  A  steak  or  chop  cut  an  inch  thick  should  cook  for 
two  minutes  close  to  the  fire,  then  eight  minutes  drawn  a 
little  distance  from  the  fire.  The  meat  must  be  turned  fre- 
quently. This  time  and  method  .give  a  steak  or  chop  of 
medium  rareness. 

Stewing  and  Braizing.— All  meats  stewed  and  braized 
should  be  treated  like  boiled  meats:  first  great  heat,  then  a 
gentle  simmering. 

Frying.— The  least  objectionable  and  most  economical 
method  of  frying  is  to  immerse  the  article  to  be  cooked  in  a 
bath  of  hot  fat.  Frying  is  the  least  healthful  of  all  methods 
of  cooking,  and  should  be  employed  sparingly. 

Fish.— The  principles  underlying  the  cooking  of  meats 
are  the  same  for  fish.     Salt  fish  should  never  boil. 

Mutton  should  always  have  the  thin  skin  that  comes  next 
to  the  fat  removed  before  cooking,  as  this  is  what  gives  the 
strong,  disagreeable  flavor  to  the  meat. 


FOOD  241 


PRINCIPLES  UNDERLYING  THE  COOKING  OF  VEGETABLE 
SUBSTANCES 

The  vegetable  foods  are  divided  into  four  general  classes 
-cereals,  legumes,  tubers,  and  green  vegetables. 

Cereals.— Under  this  head  are  included  all  the  grains— 
yheat,  oats,  rye,  barley,  Indian  corn,  rice,  etc. 

Legumes.— Pease,  beans,  and  lentils  belong  to  this  class. 

Tubers.— To  this  class  belong  potatoes,  turnips,  carrots, 
leets,  parsnips,  etc. 

Green  Vegetables.— The  leaves,  stalks,  and  green,  tender 
lods  of  vegetables  come  under  this  head. 

Vegetable  Fruits  and  Flowers.— Cucumbers,  squash,  egg- 
ilant,  tomatoes,  etc.,  are  sometimes  called  vegetable  fruit. 
?he  flowers  of  some  vegetables,  such  as  cauliflower  and 
•Tench   artichoke,  are  the  parts  of  the  vegetable  used. 

Vegetables  vary  in  their  composition,  some  having  a  large 
•roportion  of  water,  while  in  others  it  is  small.  In  green 
nd  moist  vegetables  the  percentage  of  water  is  high.  In  the 
ereals  and  legumes  it  is  low. 

Starch  goes  to  make  up  a  large  percentage  of  some  vege- 
ables,  while  others  contain  none.     All  the  cereals,  legumes, 
iotatoes,  etc.,  belong  to  the  first  class.     Carrots, 
urnips,  onions,  Jerusalem  artichokes,  beets,  and   biesthafdo 
omatoes  belong  to  the  second  class.     In  nearly   and  do  not 
11  the  plants  that  contain  starch  there  is  also      s^rck 
ound  a  slight  trace  of  dextrine.     Small  as  is  the 
mount  of  dextrine,  it  exercises  an  influence  on  the  flavor 
f  properly  cooked  starchy  foods. 

The  starch  in  a  plant  consists  of  granules,  which  are  en- 
eloped  in  a  thin  membrane.  No  matter  how  fine  the  flour 
lay  be,  a  large  proportion  of  the  starch  grains  are  still 
rotected  by  this  membrane,  which  must  be  broken  before 
he  real  cooking  of  the  starch  begins.     Moisture  and  a  high 


242  HOME  ECONOMICS 

temperature  are  necessary  to  the  perfect  cooking  of  starch. 
Potatoes,  green  corn,  and  other  moist  vegetables  supply  the 
moisture  for  cooking  their  starch;  but  the  dry  cereals  and 
legumes  must  be  supplied  with  the  necessary  moisture.  The 
effect  of  heat  on  starch  is  to  swell  the  grains,  causing  them 
to  burst  through  their  thin  sacks.  A  good  illustration  oi 
this  is  pop-corn. 

If  there  is  a  plenty  of  moisture  the  starch  grains  absorb 

it,  as,  for  example,  when  a  starchy  substance  is  first  put  intc 

a  boiling  liquid  it  begins  to  thicken  immediately. 

Effects  of     provided  the  substance  is  ground  fine,  as  in  th^ 

starch.  case  of  corn-starch;  if  the  cooking  is  continued 
for  twenty  minutes  or  half  an  hour,  with  the 
cover  on  the  stew-pan  to  prevent  evaporation,  the  mixture 
grows  thinner  rather  than  thicker— that  is,  the  starch  be- 
comes dissolved  and  grainy;  when  subjected  to  long  cook- 
ing at  a  high  temperature,  a  portion  of  the  starch  is  changed 
into  dextrine,  then  sugar— hence  the  sweeter  taste  in  well- 
baked  bread  or  any  starchy  substance  when  subjected  to  long 
cooking  at  a  high  temperature.  Some  kinds  of  starch  be- 
come more  transparent  than  others  when  cooked;  this  is  nota- 
bly the  case  with  arrowroot. 

When  starch  is  subjected  to  a  temperature  of  320°  oi 
more,  some  portion  of  it  is  changed  to  dextrine,  and  this,  ii 
turn,  is  changed  to  sugar,  if  the  cooking  is  continued  long 
enough,  under  the  right  conditions.  For  example,  when  we 
make  a  cream  sauce  by  first  cooking  flour  in  hot  fat,  and 
then  adding  milk  to  it,  if  the  sauce  is  used  at  once  it  will  be 
smooth  and  free  from  a  sweet  taste ;  but  let  it  cook  for  some 
time,  and  it  becomes  sweet,  as  if  sugar  had  been  added  to  it, 
When  there  is  a  trace  of  dextrine  in  the  starchy  food,  as  is 
the  case  in  wheat,  potatoes,  etc.,  the  long  cooking  changes 
the  dextrine  to  sugar,  thus  giving  a  peculiar  nutty  flavor  tc 
bread,  mush,  and  vegetables. 

The  digestive  juices  have  little  action  on  starch  in  the  raw 


FOOD  243 

;ate;  if  taken  into  the  system  in  that  form,  it  causes  de- 
tngement  of  the  alimentary  canal,  and  the  greater  part 
isses  out  unchanged.  So  it  is  very  important  that  this 
ibstance  be  properly  cooked,  that  it  may  be  palatable  and 
gestible. 

Note.— Church  says:  "It  has  been  found  that  uncooked 
arch  from  Indian  corn  may  be  completely  turned  into  sugar 
I  the  action  of  the  saliva  in  3  minutes,  oat-starch  in  6 
inutes,  wheat-starch  in  40  minutes,  and  potato-starch  in  3 
)urs,  the  quantities,  etc.,  being  the  same  in  each  case.  But 
fter  thorough  cooking,  all  starches  require  nearly  the  same 
me." 

Flour,  corn-starch,  etc.,  cook  much  quicker  than  the 
>arser  meals.  This  is  because  the  starchy  particles  are 
•oken  up  so  much  finer  that  the  heat  and  moisture  reach 
lem  quickly.  It  is  for  this  reason  that  Graham  bread  must 
>ok  so  much  longer  than  the  loaf  made  with  fine  wheat  flour, 
mush  or  gruel  made  with  fine  flour  will  cook  in  much  less 
me  than  that  made  with  the  coarser  meals. 
All  cereals  should  be  stirred  into  boiling  water,  and  they 
lould  boil.  Salt  should  not  be  added  at  first,  because  it 
irdens  the  cellulose  or  woody  envelops.  When  cooking 
archy  foods  it  is  important  that  one  should  know  what 
ssult  is  desired  at  the  end  of  the  process.  For  example,  do 
e  want  the  article  cooked  just  long  enough  to  swell  and 
irst  the  starch  granules,  or  do  we  want  the  process  to  go 
irther  and  change  the  character  of  the  article  from  a  com- 
iratively  light,  dry  mass  to  a  moist,  gummy  one? 
We  have  seen  that  the  first  effect  of  heat  on  Conditions 
ie  starch  granules  is  to  make  them  swell  and  w^lchPr°- 
arst  through  their  envelop.  When  we  cook  po-  light,  dry, 
ttoes,  rice,  pop-corn,  dumplings,  etc.,  the  aim  is  or  a  moist' 
>  have  these  dishes  light  and  dry;  therefore  the  tide. 
>oking  should  stop  as  soon  as  the  starch  granules 
ave  burst.    If  the  cooking  continues  in  moisture,  the  starch 


244  HOME  ECONOMICS 

absorbs  the  moisture  and  the  article  becomes  soggy  and  heavy 
If,  on  the  contrary,  we  want  the  starch  to  dissolve,  we  cool 
it  a  long  time  in  plenty  of  liquid,  as  when  we  bake  a  littlt 
rice  and  a  great  deal  of  milk  together  for  two  or  thre* 
hours.     The  result  is  a  thick,  creamy,  delicious  mass. 

Among  the  varieties  of  vegetable  food,  the  most  importam 
are  the  cereals,  and  of  all  the  cereals  wheat  is  the  mosl 

valuable.  It  has  the  largest  proportion  of  nitrog 
^readf1     enous  principle  of  any  of  the  grains  commonlj 

used  in  bread-making.  In  the  form  of  properly 
made  and  baked  bread,  wheat  gives  one  of  the  most  health 
ful  and  satisfying  nutriments.  There  are  hundreds  oj 
methods  of  making  bread,  and  the  different  forms  anc 
textures  give  a  pleasant  variety;  but  taken  day  after  daj 
and  year  after  year,  there  is  no  form  of  bread  which  ii 
so  satisfactory  as  the  loaf  that  is  made  with  flour,  water 
salt,  yeast,  and  possibly  a  little  butter  to  make  it  tender 
and  also  a  little  sugar  to  help  fermentation.  A  table 
spoonful  of  sugar  to  four  quarts  of  flour  will  be  sufficien 
for  this.  The  fermentation  should  go  on  only  long  enougl 
to  make  the  bread  so  light  as  to  break  up  readily  in  mas 
tication.  The  loaves  should  be  in  such  a  form  that  th< 
heat  will  penetrate  to  the  center  readily  and  quickly,  an< 
each  loaf  should  be  baked  long  enough  to  cook  the  starcl 
thoroughly  and  give  a  rich  brown,  nutty-flavored  crust.  Th< 
secret  of  the  French  bread  lies  in  the  fact  that  the  dough  i 
worked  without  the  use  of  much  dry  flour;  it  is  not  allowe< 
to  rise  much;  the  loaves  give  as  much  crust  as  crumb,  an< 
they  are  baked  in  well-ventilated  brick  ovens  until  a  rich 
thick  crust  is  formed.  However,  the  French  loaf  is  goo< 
only  the  first  or  second  day;  this  is  because  the  kneading  i 
not  enough  to  make  the  dough  smooth  and  fine-grained.  Th« 
more  dough  is  kneaded,  the  finer  and  closer  grained  will  h 
the  loaf;  the  bread  will  be  more  tender  and  will  keep  sof 
longer  than  a  loaf  which  has  had  but  little  kneading. 


FOOD  245 

The  leguminous  seeds,  such  as  beans,  pease,  and  lentils, 
ire  richer  than  any  other  vegetables  in  nitrogenous  princi- 
ples, and,  with  the  addition  of  fat,  they  may 
ake  the  place  of  meat  in  the  dietary,  but  un-  Jj^umef~ 
ess  cooked  with  care  are  quite  indigestible,  tive  value. 
$o  matter  what  the  mode  of  cooking,  it  must 
Iways  be  rather  long  and  at  a  low  temperature.  This  is 
rue  even  of  the  fresh  or  green  beans;  still,  when  fresh,  the 
ime  for  cooking  should  not  be  more  than  one  third  or  one 
ialf  of  that  required  for  the  dry  bean.  Pease,  when  dried, 
equire  long,  slow  cooking,  but  when  fresh-picked  will  cook 
uickly.  Lentils  require  about  the  same  treatment  as  dried 
leans.  The  dried  beans  and  pease,  pound  for  pound,  are 
auch  richer  in  food  values  than  the  fresh  vegetables,  but 
equire  great  care  in  cooking,  that  the  tough  skin  may  be 
lade  tender.  The  French  prepare  these  vegetables  in  puree, 
hat  they  may  be  more  easy  of  digestion  by  the  removal  of 
he  tough  envelops. 

Fresh  beans  and  pease  should  be  cooked  in  boiling  water, 
nd  boiled  gently,  with  the  cover  partially  off  the  saucepan 
o  allow  the  steam  to  escape.  They  should  not  be  allowed 
o  over-cook.  The  time  of  cooking  will  depend  upon  how 
oung  and  fresh  they  are. 

Dried  beans  and  pease  should  be  soaked  in  cold  water  for 
ight  or  more  hours.  They  should  be  rinsed  in  fresh  water, 
,nd  put  on  to  cook  in  cold  water.  They  should  H  . 
immer  gently,  with  the  cover  partially  off  the  cook  dried 
aucepan,  until  they  are  tender.  Rapid  boiling,  beans  and 
nth  the  cover  on  the  saucepan,  removes  and 
Lardens  the  outer  envelop,  breaks  up  the  beans,  and  pro- 
luces  a  dark,  strong-flavored,  indigestible  vegetable.  If 
i  little  washing-soda  is  added  to  the  water  in  which  dried 
>eans  or  pease  are  soaked,  the  strong  flavor  will  be  partially 
emoved  and  the  vegetable  will  be  more  tender.  Use  a  piece 
►f  soda  about  the  size  of  a  pea  for  each  quart  of  water. 


246  HOME  ECONOMICS 

Tuberous  Vegetables.— Nearly  all  vegetables  of  this  class 
are  watery.  Some  have  a  good  deal  of  sugar  and  no  starchy 
while  others,  as  the  potato,  contain  a  great  deal  of  starchj 
All  these  vegetables  should  be  washed  very  clean,  and  pared 
or  scraped.  If  potatoes  are  liked  cooked  in  their  "  jackets," 
they  should  be  pared  at  the  ends,  and  a  narrow  strip  of  the 
skin  taken  from  the  middle  of  the  potato.  This  is  to  allow 
the  gases  to  escape.  Baked  potatoes,  if  pierced  when  half 
done  with  a  sharp  fork  or  skewer,  will  be  more  digestible  than 
if  an  outlet  were  not  made  for  the  gases  to  escape. 

Carrots,  parsnips,  and  salsify  should  always  be  scraped, 
never  pared.  In  old  carrots  the  heart  is  hard  and  woody, 
and  unfit  for  food;  only  the  tender  outside  layer  should 
be  used.  In  new  carrots  the  heart  is  tender,  and  should 
be  used.  It  is  important  that  all  these  vegetables  should  be 
cooked  until  tender,  but  no  longer.  Over-cooking  causes 
them  to  become  strong-flavored  and  indigestible. 

Green  Vegetables.— Green  vegetables  have  not  the  nutri- 
tive value  found  in  the  grains  and  most  of  the  tubers,  but 
they  are  valuable  because  of  the  phosphates  and  other  salts 
and  acids  which  they  contain,  and  which  the  human  body 
demands.  They  also  fill  an  important  part  in  the  human 
economy  by  supplying  a  food  which  dilutes,  as  it  were,  the 
more  highly  concentrated  foods,  such  as  meats,  fish,  eggs, 
etc.  If  it  were  not  for  the  use  of  the  vegetables,  we  should 
eat  too  much  of  the  more  stimulating  foods.  Finally,  the 
variety  which  they  supply  to  our  tables  is  one  of  their  chiei 
blessings. 

Fresh  vegetables  require  great  care  in  their  preparation 

that  they  may  be  made  digestible,  and  yet  retain  the  greater 

How  the     Par^  °^  *keir  mineral  constituents.    The  French 

French      people  are  much  more  scientific  in  their  prepara- 

cook  f^e1sh    tion  of  fresh  and  green  vegetables  than  we  are. 

Where  it  is  possible,  they  cook  them  in  very  little 

or  no  water.    They  blanch  nearly  all  green  vegetables  before 


FOOD  247 

proceeding  with  the  cooking  proper.  This  is  done  to  re- 
move any  strong  or  bitter  taste,  and  to  make  green  vegeta- 
bles greener,  and  the  white  or  light  tubers  whiter. 

The  vegetables  are  cleaned,  well  washed,  and  drained. 
They  are  then  put  into  a  stew-pan  full  of  boiling  water,  and 
boiled  for  more  or  less  time,  depending  upon  the 
vegetable.    The  vegetable  is  then  poured  into  a     How  they 
colander,  and  cold  water  is  poured  over  it.    Then     blanched, 
the  cooking  proceeds.     Usually  spinach,  lettuce, 
sorrel,  etc.,  are  put  in  a  thin  piece  of  cloth,  and  the  water  is 
pressed  from  them.    They  are  then  put  back  on  the  fire,  with 
butter  and  seasonings  and  sometimes  a  little  bouillon,  and 
are  simmered  gently  until  done— spinach  about  half  an  hour. 

For  such  vegetables  as  carrots,  turnips,  celery,  onions, 
etc.,  a  sauce  is  often  made  in  which  they  are  simmered. 
Sometimes  these  vegetables  are  first  glazed,  that  is,  fried  in 
butter  until  brown;  then  a  little  sugar  is  added,  and  they  are 
cooked  a  few  minutes  longer.  This  gives  a  rich-flavored  and 
savory  vegetable. 

Many  of  the  tuberous  vegetables,  when  new  and  fresh,  are 
cooked  without  any  liquid.  The  small  new  potato  is  pared 
and  washed,  then  put  in  a  broad-bottomed  stew- 
pan,  with  butter  or  some  other  fat,  and  cooked  vegetables, 
over  a  moderate  fire  until  done.  The  new  pota- 
toes, which  are  about  the  size  of  a  large  marble,  cook  in 
about  twelve  or  fifteen  minutes;  the  stew-pan  is  often  shaken 
to  turn  the  potatoes.  Young  carrots  are  cooked  in  the  same 
manner,  except  that  they  are  sliced,  and  butter,  sugar,  and 
salt  are  added  to  them.  It  is  a  delicious  dish,  and  extremely 
healthy.  Turnips  are  cooked  in  the  same  manner.  Young 
green  pease  are  cooked  with  tender  leaves  of  lettuce,  salt, 
pepper,  butter,  and  sugar.  Small  white  onions  and  fine  herbs 
are  sometimes  cooked  with  them.  When  the  pease  are  not 
so  tender,  or  are  canned,  a  little  water  or  bouillon  is  added 
to  them,  barely  enough  to  cover  them. 


248  HOME  ECONOMICS 

The  French  cook  uses  a  great  deal  of  butter  in  the  cook- 
ing of  vegetables.  Sometimes  sweet  drippings  are  substi- 
tuted, and,  again,  a  little  fresh  pork  is  employed.  The  most 
delicious  soups  are  made  with  a  combination  of  vegetables, , 
herbs,  water,  butter  or  other  fat,  and  salt  and  pepper.  There 
is  hardly  a  vegetable  which  is  not  used,  either  cooked  or  raw, 
in  salad,  the  usual  dressing  being  one  third  or  fourth  vine- 
gar, and  two  thirds  or  three  fourths  oil,  with,  of  course,  salt 
and  pepper.  For  the  bean  salads,  mustard  is  sometimes 
used.  When  it  is  possible,  the  French  housekeeper  has  her 
little  dish  of  garniture  for  her  salad,  which  consists  of  cer- 
feuil  (chervil),  parsley,  ciboule  (a  young  onion),  and  tarragon. 
This  garniture  is  added  to  the  vegetables  before  the  oil  and 
vinegar. 

It  is  not  possible  to  give  the  exact  time  for  cooking  fresh 

vegetables,  because  so  much  depends  upon  the  vegetable 

.    itself,  the  time  it  has  been  picked,  the  degree  of 

JookLg      maturity,  and  whether  it  grew  quickly  or  slowly. 

'green       We  all  know  that  in  cold  seasons  asparagus  and 

JomewhaT  corn  are  ^°^  ^ar(^  anc*  unsatisfactory,  for  these 
dependent  two  vegetables  demand  quick  growth  to  be  ten- 
nes^and  ^er'  *n  a  ^°^  ^ry  season  pease,  beans,  and  nearly 
tenderness,  all  the  green  vegetables  are  rather  hard  and  tough. 
The  slow  growth  that  comes  from  a  cold  season 
makes  these  vegetables  also  less  tender.  Vegetables  that 
have  been  picked  long  enough  to  wilt  will  not  be  tender  un- 
less the  freshness  and  crispness  have  been  restored  by  the 
use  of  cold  water.  Lettuce  and  asparagus  can  be  kept  fresh 
by  standing  the  root  ends  in  a  pan  of  cold  water.  All  herbs 
should  have  the  stem  ends  placed  in  cold  water.  Potatoes, 
turnips,  carrots,  string-beans,  spinach,  and  other  green  vege- 
tables can  be  made  crisp  and  fresh  by  soaking  in  cold  water 
for  several  hours. 

All  fresh   vegetables  should   be  perfectly  crisp   before 
being  put  into  boiling  water.     The  water  should  be  boiling 


FOOD  249 

when  fresh  vegetables  are  put  into  it,  and  kept  boiling 
gently  all  the  time  the  vegetable  is  cooking.     If  the  stew- 
pan  is  only  partially  covered,  the  vegetables  will 
be  greener  and  of  better  flavor  than  if  covered    conditionof 
closely.     Too  long  cooking  darkens  the  vegetable    fresh  vege- 
and  makes  it  strong-flavored.     Turnips,  cabbage,       before 
and  cauliflower  are  good  examples  of  this.     The      cooking. 
small  white  turnip  or  cauliflower  cooked  over  thirty    over-cook- 
minutes  immediately  begins  to  take  on  color  and    ing  ruins  a 
flavor;  and  if  the  cooking  is  extended  to  double    vei^able 
that  time,  as  is  often  the  case,  by  careless  people, 
the  vegetable  becomes  indigestible.    If  potatoes  are  cooked 
two  or  three  minutes  after  they  are  done,  particularly  if  they 
are  surrounded  by  moisture,  either  of  their  own  or  from  some 
other  source,  they  begin  to  grow  soggy  and  strong-flavored. 
As  great  care  is  demanded  that  the  vegetable  should  not  be 
over-cooked  as  that  it  is  not  under-cooked. 

The  supply  and  quality  of  our  vegetables  improve  each 
year.  Market-gardeners  make  a  better  selection  of  seeds, 
and  bestow  more  care  on  the  cultivation  and  marketing  of 
vegetables,  than  was  their  custom.  Small,  almost  stringless 
beans  and  fresh  carrots  are  to  be  found  in  the  markets  all 
the  year,  where  formerly  they  were  to  be  had  only  a  few 
months  in  the  year. 

A  few  definite  rules  will  serve  to  show  how  easy,  healthful, 
and  satisfactory  is  the  scientific  method  of  cooking  vegetables 
of  the  various  classes.     If  the  housekeeper  and    Apieafor 
cook  will  take  the  time  to  thoroughly  study  and     more  at- 
understand  the  principles  underlying  the  cooking    2j?J?  j£ 
of  vegetable  substances  as  given  in  this  chapter,     ration  of 
our  tables  will  be  served  with  savory,  digestible      vegeta- 
vegetables  every  day  in  the  year.    I  feel  like  ask- 
ing, as  a  personal  favor,  that  each  housekeeper  will  give  for 
one  year  as  much  time  to  the  study  of  vegetables  as  she  ordi- 
narily gives  to  the  study  of  cakes,  pastry,  and  other  sweets. 


250  HOME  ECONOMICS 

String  the  beans,  and  break  them  in  pieces  about  two 
inches  long;  let  them  stand  in  cold  water  for  several  hours; 
drain  off  the  water,  and  put  the  beans  into  a  stew- 
for Certain6  Pan  w^  *nree  <luarts  of  boiling  water;  boil  for 
method  of  thirty-five  or  forty  minutes,  with  the  cover  par- 
cooking     tially  off  the  stew-pan ;  then  turn  the  beans  into  a 

bies.  colander,  and  pour  cold  water  over  them  until  they 
are  thoroughly  chilled.  Put  them  in  a  stew-pan 
with  the  butter,  sugar,  salt,  and  stock  or  water;  let  them 
cook  rapidly,  with  the  cover  off  the  stew-pan,  for  ten 
minutes.  For  one  quart  of  beans,  use  (after  they  are 
blanched)  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of 
sugar,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  half  a  pint  of  light  meat 
stock  or  of  water.  Or  the  water  may  be  omitted,  and  a 
third  tablespoonful  of  butter  added;  cook  over  a  very  hot 
fire  for  five  minutes;  this  gives  glazed  beans.  Or  they  may 
be  heated  and  served  in  a  white  or  brown  sauce.  If  a  table- 
spoonful  of  salt  is  added  to  the  water  in  which  the  beans 
are  boiled,  they  will  be  greener,  but  not  quite  so  delicate 
and  tender. 

The  beans  may  be  boiled  hours,  or  a  day,  before  the 
time  of  serving.  The  important  thing  to  remember  is 
that  they  must  be  chilled  as  soon  as  they  are  taken  from 
the  fire. 

Spinach,  lettuce,  sorrel,  cabbage,  cauliflower,  turnips,  car- 
rots, parsnips,  and  like  vegetables  may  all  be  cooked  in 
boiling  water,  chilled  in  cold  water,  drained,  and  put  away 
until  serving-time,  when  they  may  be  heated  and  served  in 
sauce,  or  sautered  with  the  butter  and  salt,  as  directed  for 
beans.  The  sugar  may  be  omitted  from  beans  and  other 
vegetables,  if  not  liked. 

The  secret  of  success  in  this  cooking  is  in  having  the 
vegetable  crisp,  put  into  boiling  water,  having  it  boil  con- 
tinuously, with  the  cover  of  the  stew-pan  partially  removed 
to  allow  the  escape  of  gases,  and  the  rapid  and  thorough 


FOOD  251 

chilling  of  the  vegetable  as  soon  as  it  is  taken  from  the  boil- 
ing water. 

If  a  vegetable  is  to  be  served  immediately,  the  chilling  is 
not  necessary.  If  the  vegetable  is  to  be  served  in  a  sauce, 
the  water  in  which  it  is  boiled  must  be  salted,  as  the  sauce 
should  not  be  salt  enough  to  season  the  vegetable. 

Boiled  Potatoes.— Have  the  potatoes  pared,  or  partially 
pared;  cover  them  with  boiling  water,  and  let  them  cook, 
with  the  cover  of  the  stew-pan  partially  off,  for  thirty 
minutes.  Add  one  tablespoonful  of  salt  for  every  dozen 
potatoes.  At  the  end  of  thirty  minutes  drain  off  every  drop 
of  water;  set  the  stew-pan  on  the  range  for  a  few  minutes  to 
dry  off  the  potatoes.  Never  put  the  cover  over  the  cooked 
vegetable.  If  the  potatoes  must  wait  before  serving,  cover 
them  with  several  folds  of  cheese-cloth,  and  let  the  stew-pan 
stand  on  a  warm  part  of  the  range.  The  cheese-cloth  allows 
the  moisture  to  escape,  and  yet  protects  the  vegetable  from 
the  cold  air. 

Boiled  Rice.— Wash  the  rice,  rubbing  the  grains  between 
the  hands,  in  three  waters.  Put  it  on  to  cook  in  boiling 
water  (two  quarts  of  water  to  half  a  pint  of  rice).  Add  one 
tablespoonful  of  salt;  boil  rapidly,  with  the  cover  off  the 
stew-pan,  for  fifteen  minutes;  turn  the  rice  into  a  colander 
to  drain.  Immediately  return  it  to  the  stew-pan,  which 
cover  and  set  back  where  it  will  keep  hot  for  forty  minutes 
or  longer.  Rice  cooked  in  this  manner  will  be  sweet,  dry, 
and  have  every  grain  separate. 

The  rice  may  be  boiled  in  the  water  for  thirty  instead  of 
fifteen  minutes,  in  which  case  it  must  be  thoroughly  drained, 
then  placed  in  the  stew-pan  on  the  back  of  the  range;  cover 
with  cheese-cloth  to  allow  the  steam  to  escape. 

By  the  first  method  the  rice  is  only  partially  cooked  when 
the  water  is  drained  off.  The  saucepan  is  then  covered  closely 
to  prevent  the  escape  of  the  moisture,  which  is  required  to 
finish  the  cooking  of  the  vegetable.     By  the  second  method 


252  HOME  ECONOMICS 

the  rice  absorbs  all  the  water  it  requires  in  the  thirty  min- 
utes; therefore  it  must  be  thoroughly  drained,  and  while  dry- 
ing off  it  must  be  covered  with  a  coarse  cloth,  or  with  cheese- 
cloth, that  the  steam  may  escape. 

These  examples  of  cooking  potatoes  and  rice  are  given  to 
show  how  necessary  it  is  that  there  be  only  the  required 
amount  of  moisture  when  a  starchy  substance  is  to  be 
cooked  dry.  On  the  other  hand,  when  a  starchy  substance 
is  desired  moist,  the  cooking  must  be  done  in  plenty  of 
moisture  and  at  a  high  temperature. 

In  cooking  the  various  cereals  in  the  form  of 
perataro"    musn>  they  should  always  be  stirred  into  the  re- 
develops    quired  amount  of  boiling  water,  and  boil  for  at 
to  cereals!    *east  *en  minutes.    If  there  is  fear  of  scorching 
the  mush,  the  cooking  may  be  finished  over  boiling 
water;  but  a  fine  nutty  flavor  is  attained  by  mush  which  is 
cooked  at  a  temperature  high  enough  to  let  it  bubble  all  the 
while  it  is  cooking. 

THE  MANIPULATION  OF  MATERIALS 

There  are  two  forces  that  enter  into  the  preparation  of 
our  food— the  mechanical  and  the  chemical.  To  do  our  work 
with  the  greatest  ease  and  success  we  should  un- 
for  under-  derstand  the  reasons  why;  then  there  will  be  no 
standing  guesswork  or  uncertainty,  and  there  will  be  a  uni- 
th  wny!°n  f ormity  in  our  results  which  will  be  most  gratify- 
ing. So  far,  when  we  have  touched  upon  food, 
it  has  been  to  show  the  effect  of  heat  on  the  simpler  mate- 
rials. Now  we  want  to  consider  briefly  manipulation,  heat, 
air,  steam,  and  gases  in  relation  to  certain  kinds  of  mixtures. 

In  preparing  certain  mixtures  the  manner  of  combining 
and  manipulating  materials  is  very  important.  A  few  brief 
statements  will  help  the  housekeeper  and  cook  to  understand 
the  reason  why  one  gets  such  different  results  from  the 
same  materials  under  varying  manipulations  and  conditions. 


POOD  253 

Doughs.— These  are  a  mixture  of  flour  or  meal,  liquids, 
and  other  materials.     Anything  that  is  made  so  thick  that 
it  can  be  molded  into  various  forms  is  a  dough.       w«   . 
The  more  thoroughly  a  dough  is  kneaded  or  beaten,       makes 
the  finer  grained  will  be  the  article  made  from  it.    ..  fe^j1 
The  less  moisture  there  is  in  dough,  the  drier  and      grained, 
more  crumbly  will  be  the  cooked  article.     All     and  moist 
dough  mixtures  depend  for  their  lightness  on 
carbonic-acid  gas,  air,  and  moisture.     The  heat  applied  in 
cooking  expands  the  gas,  the  air,  and  the  moisture  which  has 
been  changed  to  steam.     The  more  air  we  beat  into  a  dough, 
the  less  carbonic-acid  gas  will  be  required  to  make  it  light. 
In  cooking,  because  of  the  greater  pressure  required  to  force 
the  solid  particles  apart,  all  doughs,  except  where  yeast  has 
been  used,  require  a  greater  heat  than  do  the  batters. 

Batters.— Mixtures  of  flour,  meal,  liquid,  and  other  sub- 
stances that  are  too  thin  to  be  molded  into  shape,  are  termed 
batters.  Like  doughs,  they  depend  for  lightness  on  air, 
moisture,  and  sometimes  carbonic-acid  gas.  The  thicker 
the  batter,  the  greater  the  force  required  to  push  the  par- 
ticles apart. 

The  carbonic-acid  gas  which  we  employ  to  make  doughs 
and  batters  light  is  produced  in  several  ways.     One  is  by  fer- 
mentation, as  when  we  mix  yeast  with  the  dough 
or  batter;  as  the  mixture  ferments,  particles  of    Sou^ces .of 
gas  are  given  off,  which  become  entangled  in  the     acid  gas. 
dough,  filling  it  with  cells,  and  causing  it  to  ex- 
pand as  a  dry  sponge  does  when  placed  in  water.     It  is  im- 
portant that  the  dough  be  thoroughly  kneaded  or  beaten, 
that  the  gas  may  be  evenly  distributed,  thus  giving  a  fine- 
celled  loaf  of  bread,  roll,  or  muffin.     Articles  of  food  that 
are  made  light  with  yeast  must  have  all  the  cells  formed,  and 
the  fermentation  nearly  finished,  before  heat  is  applied,  be- 
cause a  high  temperature  kills  the  yeast  plant  and  so  stops 
fermentation. 


254  HOME   ECONOMICS 

Carbonic-acid  gas  may  be  produced  at  the  moment  it  is 
required  for  use  by  a  combination  of  an  acid,  an  alkali,  and  a 
liquid,  as  in  the  case  of  soda  and  cream  of  tartar  or  baking- 
powder;  or  with  an  alkali  and  an  acid  liquid,  as,  for  example, 
soda  and  sour  milk,  vinegar,  lemon-juice,  molasses,  etc. 

The  cook  should  remember  that  the  gas  is  liberated  at 

once  when  the  wet  acid  and  alkali  are  combined,  except  in  the 

yr,        ,    case  of  soda  and  cream  of  tartar,  or  a  cream-of- 

how  the      tartar  baking-powder.     When  the  acid  employed 

8™  js  is  cream  of  tartar,  but  little  gas  is  given  off  until 
heat  is  applied.  This  may  be  proved  by  putting 
equal  quantities  of  baking-powder  in  two  tumblers,  and 
pouring  a  little  cold  water  over  one,  and  hot  water  over 
the  other.  The  second  glass  will  be  filled  immediately  with 
the  gas.  This  illustration  goes  to  show  that,  to  get  the  full 
quantity  of  the  gas  entangled  in  the  dough  or  batter,  all  the 
materials  should  be  cold  during  the  mixing,  and  that  the 
temperature  to  which  the  article  is  subjected  while  cooking 
should  be  moderate  if  a  fine-grained,  even-celled  muffin  or 
cake  is  desired;  and  if,  on  the  other  hand,  one  wishes  an 
article  filled  with  large  cells  the  temperature  should  be 
higher. 

When  using  soda  and  sour  milk,  lemon-juice,  vinegar,  and 
like  acids,  everything  should  be  in  readiness,  and  as  much 
as  possible  of  the  mixing  and  beating  should  be  done  before 
the  acid  and  alkali  are  combined.  The  work  should  progress 
very  rapidly  after  this,  or  a  great  deal  of  the  gas  will  escape 
into  the  air. 

The  cook  should  not  depend  wholly  upon  chemicals  for 
making  her  dough  and  batter  light.  Where  there  is  plenty 
of  air  entangled,  only  a  small  amount  of  carbonic  acid  will 
be  required.  The  too  generous  use  of  baking-powder  pro- 
duces a  dry,  tasteless  bread,  muffin,  or  cake. 

In  beating  eggs  or  a  batter  for  the  purpose  of  making 
them  light,  the  movement  should  be  rapid  and  the  swing  of 


FOOD  255 

the  arm  out  and  upward;  this  motion  lifts  the  mixture,  and 
as  it  falls  back  it  sweeps  the  air  in  with  it.  The  value  of 
eggs  in  making  a  substance  light  is  not  that  of  „  , 
themselves  they  have  this  power,  but  that  the  why  eggs 
albumin  in  the  egg  is  a  tenacious  substance,  capa-  and  batters 
ble  of  stretching  and  entangling  a  great  volume 
of  air.  The  albumin  hardens  at  a  low  temperature,  thus  in- 
suring the  stability  of  the  walls  of  the  cells,  a  most  impor- 
tant thing  in  delicate  batters,  like  muffins  and  cake. 

The  temperature  at  which  doughs  and  batters  are  baked 
has  much  to  do  with  the  texture  of  the  finished  article.     If 
the  heat  is  too  great  at  first,  the  bubbles  of  air    j^^g  of 
and  gas  expand  so  rapidly  that  they  do  not  re-      varied 

main  in  their  individual  cells,  but  burst  their     tempera- 
ture on 
walls,  which  fall  together,  giving  a  muffin  or  cake    texture  of 

filled  with  a  mixture  of  great  holes  and  of  solid  doughs  and 
particles  of  dough,  a  coarse,  tough  article  which 
no  one  likes.  The  same  batter,  if  it  had  been  cooked  in  a 
moderate  oven,  would  have  been  evenly  filled  with  fine  cells; 
the  texture  would  have  been  delicate  and  tender.  If  a 
batter  is  very  thin,  as,  for  example,  sponge-cake  or  angel- 
cake,  the  heat  must  be  very  moderate.  If  the  oven  is  too 
hot,  the  cake  rises  rapidly  and  then  falls;  that  is,  the  walls 
of  the  cells  expand  too  rapidly  to  hold  the  structure,  and  a 
collapse  is  the  result,  as  is  the  case  in  making  soap-bubbles 
when  one  blows  too  hard— the  bubble  bursts. 

A  good  general  rule  for  baking  batters  and  doughs  is  to 
have  a  very  moderate  oven  for  the  thinnest  batters,  increas- 
ing the  heat  as  the  batters  thicken,  until  we  come      General 
to  bread,  which  requires  a  rather  hot  oven.     The       ^t^J 
heat  must  be  as  great,  if  not  a  little  greater,  at      batters 
the  bottom  as  at  the  top  of  the  oven.  anddoughs. 

An  important  thing  to  remember,  in  baking  all  kinds  of 
breads  and  batters,  is  that  at  first  the  dough  or  batter 
liquefies,  and  that  at  this  stage  a  movement  or  a  jar  is  almost 


250  HOME  ECONOMICS 

fatal.     The  article  cooking  should  not  be  disturbed  until  the 
walls  of  the  cells  are  well  set. 

We  often  use  eggs  as  a  thickening  where  we  do  not  care 
to  have  them  light.     Many  cooks  have  an  idea  that  if  they 
are  not  to  be  made  light  they  need  not  be  beaten 
are^edto    a  Sreat  deal-     A  well-beaten  egg  will  have  twice 
thicken      the  thickening  power  of  one  only  slightly  beaten, 
and  not      when  the  egg  is  required  for  thickening  it  must 
article.      be  beaten  in  such  a  manner  that  it  will  not  en- 
tangle air.     Let  the  stroke  be  horizontal  and  in- 
ward, as  if  you  were  cutting  the  egg.     A  spoonful  of  liquid 
aids  in  preventing  it  from  becoming  light.     Eggs  for  cus- 
tards, puddings  that  are  required  smooth  and  creamy  rather 
than  light,  and  for  thickening  most  soups  and  sauces,  should 
be  beaten  in  this  manner. 

All  puddings  that  are  required  smooth  and  creamy,  such 
as  custard,  bread,  rice,  tapioca,  should  bake  or  steam  slowly. 
Rapid  cooking  produces  a  tough  curd-and-whey  article. 

FLAVORS  AND  ODORS 

In  the  preparation  of  food,  while  it  is  important  that  we 
preserve,  as  much  as  possible,  all  the  nutrition  in  the  sub- 
stance, it  is  quite  as  essential  that  we  cook  the  food  in  the 
most  digestible  manner,  even  if  this  means  a  slight  loss  in 
nutrition. 

We  have  seen  how  temperature  affects  albuminous  and 
carbon  compounds,  and  we  have  also  seen  the  importance  of 
the  proper  manipulation  of  the  food  materials,  followed  by 
the  proper  application  of  heat.  There  is  another  point  which 
has  not  received  from  investigators  the  attention  which  it 
deserves;  this  is,  What  are  the  effects  of  retaining  in  the  food 
all  the  odors  and  flavors  that  are  developed  and  liberated  in 
the  cooking?  There  is  not  space  here  to  go  into  this  sub- 
ject in  detail;  but  a  few  facts,  which  have  been  proved  by 


FOOD  257 

years  of  careful  observation  and  experiments,  will  help  to  a 
better  understanding  of  this  important  subject. 

All  food  materials  contain  flavoring  substances,  more  or 
less  strong,  that   are   fully   developed  by  heat.    In  the 
starchy  foods  the  flavors  and  odors  are  mild,  while    Q, 
in  green  vegetables,  as  a  rule,  both  flavors  and       flavors 
odors  are  pronounced.     This  is  particularly  true     d^v<Jop®d 
of  vegetables  that  contain  a  good  deal  of  sulphur       y 
or  a  pungent  essential  oil,  as,  for  example,  cabbage,  cauli- 
flower, onions,  turnips,  carrots,  etc. 

With  the  exception  of  starchy  foods,  all  vegetable  and 
animal  substances  that  are  cooked  in  closed  vessels  are  diffi- 
cult of  digestion.  The  same  foods  thoroughly 
ventilated  while  cooking  will  have  a  delicate  cooking  in 
flavor  and  be  easy  of  digestion— provided,  of  closed  or 
course,  that  all  the  other  conditions  for  proper  ^/yesseS" 
cooking  are  observed.  Take,  for  example,  cab- 
bage, turnips,  string-beans,  or  cauliflower.  Cook  them  in 
plenty  of  boiling  water  for  half  an  hour,  having  the  water 
boiling  all  the  while,  and  the  cover  partially  off  the  sauce- 
pan, and  it  will  be  found  that  these  vegetables  will  have  a 
delicate  flavor,  and  will  not  disagree  with  those  who  partake 
of  them.  On  the  other  hand,  cook  them  for  the  same  length 
of  time  with  the  saucepan  covered,  and  the  flavor  will  be 
strong,  and  in  most  cases  they  will  cause  flatulence.  By 
boiling  with  the  cover  off  the  stew-pan,  a  part  of  the  gases 
which  produce  the  strong  flavor  and  odor  are  carried  off  in  the 
steam,  thus  making  the  vegetable  much  more  delicate  and 
digestible.  This  will  be  found  true  in  the  cooking  of  all 
vegetables,  meats,  and  fish.  No  matter  what  the  process  of 
cooking  is,  let  there  be  thorough  ventilation. 

Another  point  to  remember  in  regard  to  heat,  if      Loss  of 
you  would  have  a  fine-flavored  vegetable,  soup,     ^ered 
meat,  cup  of  coffee  or  tea,  is  that  after  the  ar-     tempera- 
ticle  has  been  raised  to  a  certain  temperature,  it       taxe' 

17 


258  HOME  ECONOMICS 

must  be  kept  near  that  throughout  the  cooking  process* 
For  example,  a  vegetable  that  is  not  kept  up  to  the  boilingj 
point  all  the  time  will  be  water-soaked  and  of  poor  flavori 
A  soup  that  is  not  kept  at  the  simmering-point  all  the  time 
will  lack  flavor.  The  cup  of  tea  or  coffee  that  goes  below 
200°  will  lose  its  fine  flavor,  and  reheating  will  not  restore  itJ 

ECONOMY   IN   FOOD 

Economy  does  not  mean  going  without  things  that  are 
necessary  to  health  and  happiness,  but  a  wise  selection  and 
preparation  of  materials.  It  means  that  every- 
economy.  thing  is  put  to  its  proper  use,  and  there  is  no 
waste.  The  great  difficulty  in  the  ordinary  family 
is  that  we  have  too  many  kinds  of  food  for  one  meal,  and 
that  there  is  neither  the  time  nor  the  skill  to  prepare  so  many 
things  in  the  best  manner.  Fewer  things  simply  and  per- 
fectly cooked  and  served  would  mean  greater  economy,  bet- 
ter health,  and  greater  refinement  in  the  table. 

The  housekeeper  should  study  to  get  the  right  combina- 
tions for  health,  growth,  and  repair.  No  one  food  substance, 
1  Proper  excePt  m^k,  contains  all  the  elements  necessary 
combina-  to  growth  and  repair,  heat  and  force.  Milk  as  a 
lion  of  food  f u\\  ^let  js  suitable  only  for  young  children  and 
the  very  sick.  In  combination  with  starchy  foods, 
or  as  a  beverage  alone,  or  in  combination  with  other  things, 
as  chocolate,  cocoa,  etc.,  it  is  a  most  valuable  food  adjunct. 

Eggs  in  almost  any  form  are  a  valuable  and  economical 
food.  Milk  and  eggs,  however,  have  a  tendency  to  produce 
a  bilious  condition,  and  can  be  eaten  only  sparingly  by  some 
people. 

The  vegetable  foods  that  may,  in  a  measure,  replace  meats 
should  be  found  often  on  the  tables  of  the  people  who  must 
study  economy.  The  housekeeper  should  never  lose  sight 
of  the  fact  that  there  are  certain  kinds  of  food— the  albu- 


FOOD  259 

urinous  compounds— which  are  absolutely  necessary  for  the 
growth  and  repair  of  the  body,  and  that  there  must  be  a 
certain  amount  of  these  compounds  in  the  food  provided  for 
each  meal.  There  are  few  food  substances  that  do  not 
contain  a  little  of  each  of  the  food  principles,  so  that,  with- 
out any  thought  or  planning  on  our  part,  we  get  a  certain 
amount  of  each  in  our  daily  food.  The  following  tables  may 
be  helpful  to  the  housekeeper  in  arranging  the  menus  for 
the  day: 

GROWTH  AND  REPAIR  HEAT  AND  FORCE 

iMeat.  /Potatoes. 

iFish.  I  Rice. 

K  Starchy  foods  Jg^ 

Beans   )     ...   ,  ,    .  I Tapioca. 

[Pease    (  with  fat  of  some  ^ 

Lentils )      kmd-  Fats. 

^Cheese  Sugar. 

Nuts. 

VEGETABLES  WITH  LITTLE  OR  NO  STARCH 

Cabbage.  Spinach,  and,  indeed,  all  the 
Turnips.  green  vegetables. 

Parsnips.  Egg-plant. 

Beets.  Artichokes. 

Celery.  Tomatoes. 

Green  beans.  Squash. 

Asparagus.  Cucumbers. 
Fruits  (fresh  and  cooked). 

If  at  every  meal  something  is  taken  from  each  of  the  four 
tables,  the  balance  will  be  maintained.  Of  course  there  are 
conditions  of  health  and  eccentricities  of  digestion  that  must 


260  HOME  ECONOMICS 

be  taken  into  account  in  many  families.  No  one  has  a  right' 
to  insist  upon  any  one's  eating  any  kind  of  food  that  is  in- 
jurious to  him,  or  that  is  painfully  distasteful.  On  the  other r 
hand,  people  should  try  to  like  all  the  ordinary  plain  foods, 
both  for  their  own  comfort  and  good,  and  for  the  comfort  t 
of  those  who  provide  for  the  table. 

In  these  days,  when  there  are  so  many  fads  as  to  when, 
what,  and  how  one  shall  eat,  the  housekeeper  must  exercise 
her  common  sense,  and  not  attempt  risky  experi- 
Fads  and     ments  on  herself  and  her  family.     It  may  be  well  I 
sense.       for  some  people  to  omit  the  morning  meal,  and  for 
others  to  give  up  certain  kinds  of  food,  but  for 
the  majority  of  people  three  meals  a  day  and  a  mixed  diet 
are  a  necessity.     The  important  thing  is  not  to  narrow  the 
diet  down  to  a  few  things,  but  to  know  how  to  prepare  all  the 
food  substances  in  a  healthful,  digestible,  and  appetizing  man- 
ner, that  the  table  may  be  provided  with  a  generous  variety. 
Purchase  only  what  you  need,  prepare  it  carefully,  utilize 
even  the  smallest  particles  of  what  is  left  over.   You  will 
find  it  possible  to  combine  many  little  things  which 
needle      are  ordinarily  thrown  away,  so  as  to  make  a  deli- 
wasted,      cious  dish.     Mix,  for  example,  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
different  kinds  of  vegetables,  a  little  gravy  or  a 
small  bone  from  steak  or  chops,  a  small  piece  of  bread, 
water,  salt,  and  pepper;  simmer  for  an  hour,  rub  through  a 
sieve,  return  to  fire;  add  a  teaspoonful  of  butter,  boil  up, 
and  you  have  a  delicious  soup.     If  the  greater  part  of  the 
vegetables  were  beans  or  pease,  a  little  milk  added  to  the 
strained  mixture  will  give  you  a  cream  soup.     Or,  you  have 
a  little  stuffing  or  gravy  left  from  a  roast;  add  this  to  a  can 
of  tomatoes,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  cook  half  an  hour, 
strain,  and  serve  with  toasted  bread.    This  gives  you  a  sa- 
vory soup  for  a  luncheon. 

A  few  spoonfuls  of  rice,  hominy,  macaroni,  or  potato, 
mixed  with  a  little  chopped  meat  or  fish,  and  a  few  spoon* 


FOOD  261 

fuls  of  gravy  to  moisten  the  mixture,  may  be  put  in  a  little 
dish,  covered  with  crumbs,  and  baked  in  the  oven.  Stuffing 
left  from  roast  poultry  may  be  sliced  thin  and  browned  in 
the  oven,  and  served  on  slices  of  toast.  Indeed,  there  need 
not  be  the  slightest  waste  where  brains  and  willing  hands 
preside  in  the  kitchen. 


CHAPTER  XII 

WOODS  AND  POLISHED  FLOORS 

Polished  floors.  Hard-wood  floors.  Waxed  floors.  To  clean  and  wax  at 
the  same  time.  Summary.  Stained  floors  waxed.  General  directions 
for  oiling  floors.  Summary.  Cleaning  with  petroleum.  Appliances  used 
in  polishing  floors.    Piazza  floors. 

Every  one  should  have  some  knowledge  of  a  material 
which  enters  as  largely  as  wood  does  into  the  construction  of 
houses  and  furniture. 

A  log  of  wood  maybe  thus  briefly  described:  the  bark, 
immature  or  sap-wood,  mature  or  heart-wood,  pith.    The 

....  bark  is  nearly  always  removed  before  the  wood  is 
description    employed  in  any  but  the  rudest  kind  of  structure, 

°f  *  IS  °f  so  we  neec*  no^  cons^er  ft.  The  sap-wood  is  the 
new  soft  wood  lying  between  the  bark  and  the 
heart-wood;  it  contains  a  great  deal  of  soluble  organic  mat- 
ter, which  ferments  readily,  and  causes  the  lumber  to  decay, 
unless  it  is  soaked  or  dried  out  soon  after  the  tree  has  been 
hewn.     In  the  best  lumber  it  is  often  removed. 

The  heart-wood  is  that  part  of  the  tree  which  lies  be- 
tween the  sap-wood  and  the  pith.  This  part  of  the  log  is 
generally  much  closer  grained,  harder,  and  darker  than  the 
sap-wood.  It  contains  only  a  small  amount  of  soluble  or- 
ganic matter,  and  is  therefore  less  liable  to  decay  than  the 
sap-wood.    In  many  of  the  soft  woods  there  is  no  perceptible 

262 


WOODS  AND  POLISHED  ^FLOORS  263 

difference  in  the  color  of  the  heart-  and  sap-wood;  this  is 
the  case  with  poplars,  soft  pine,  spruce,  etc. 

Air  and  moisture  combined  are   destructive   to   wood. 
When  wood  is  kept  dry  and  exposed  to  the  air,  it  is  not 
liable  to  rapid  decay.     Wood  sunk  deep  in  water 
or  earth  is  less  liable  to  decay  than  when  exposed    ^tfoiTof" 
to  the  air  and  frequent  wettings.     Any  applica-      air  and 
tion  that  will  exclude  the  air  will  tend  to  preserve     wate?  de- 
wood.     Paint,  oil,  and  varnish  are  the  most  com-       WOod. 
mon  preservatives.     All  woods  that  have  an  out- 
side exposure  should  be  painted  or  oiled,  or  treated  with 
one  of  the  many  preservatives  on  the  market. 

When  posts  are  sunk  in  the  ground,  the  ends  that  are  to 
be  buried  should  be  treated  in  some  manner,  that  they  may 
not  decay  readily.     If  one  cannot  afford  the  ex-     H     .. 
pensive  preparations,  the  ends  may  be  burned      ends  of 
long  enough  to  cover  them  with  a  thin  layer  of    P°8tes*mk 
charcoal,  or  they  may  be  soaked  in  strong  hot      ground 
brine,  and  some  coarse  salt  be  put  in  the  earth      maybe 
that  is  used  to  fill  in  around  them;  or  they  could 
receive  two  coats  of  paint,  which  will  protect  them  from 
moisture.     Locust,  cedar,  and  chestnut,  in  the  order  in 
which  they  are  named,  are  the  best  woods  for  putting  in  the 
ground. 

Wood  that  has  a  resinous  substance  distributed  through- 
out its  structure  resists  decay  when  exposed  to  air  and 
moisture.     The  resins  are  insoluble  in  water,  and     Resinous 
harden  on  exposure  to  air,  thus  making  the  wood       woods 
impervious  to  moisture.    It  is  for  this  reason  that     resist  de" 
yellow  pine  (the  long-leafed  pine  commonly  called 
Georgia  pine)  is  so  desirable  for  piazzas,  kitchen  and  laundry 
floors,  and  all  other  situations  where  wood  is  exposed  to  air 
and  moisture. 

The  gums  are  soluble  in  water,  and  therefore  do  not  afford 
the  protection  to  wood  that  resinous  matter  does.    The 


264 


HOME  ECONOMICS 


Wood 
shrinks  in 

breadth 
and  depth 
and  little 
in  length. 


closer  grained  and  the  smoother  the  wood  is  planed,  the  less 
liable  it  is  to  absorb  moisture;  hence  the  more  durable. 

Wood  that  has  had  the  sap  dissolved  and  soaked  out  of 
it,  and  is  then  dried  with  care  in  well-ventilated  sheds,  is 
more  durable  than  the  wood  that  has  had  the  sap 
dried  in  it.  In  drying,  wood  shrinks  in  its  breadth 
and  depth,  and  little,  if  any,  in  the  length.  If 
these  woods  absorb  moisture  they  expand  in  the 
direction  in  which  they  contracted.  All  woods 
warp  more  or  less  when  exposed  to  atmospheric 
changes.  In  selecting  woods  for  floors,  doors,  windows,  etc., 
care  should  be  taken  to  choose  those  having  the  least  ten- 
dency to  warp.  Some  of  the  woods  having  this  tendency  are 
all  the  poplars  and  the  short-leaved  yellow  pine. 

The  mode  of  sawing  the  boards  has  much  to  do  with  the 
wearing  quality  of  the  wood  in  floors.  Among  lumber- 
dealers,  boards  are  designated  from  the  manner 
of  cutting,  as  "  quartered,"  "  rift  or  comb  grain," 
and  "slash"  or  "bastard."  The  quartered  and 
the  comb  grain  give  a  board  that  wears  smoothly 
and  does  not  sliver,  a  most  desirable  quality  in  a 
floor.  The  slash  or  bastard,  in  some  woods,  peels 
off  in  fine  slivers,  making  an  unsightly  and  poor-wearing  floor. 
This  same  wood  is  beautiful  and  quite  durable  in  interior 
finishes  that  are  well  protected  and  not  subject  to  friction, 
as,  for  example,  in  panels  of  doors.  In  some  woods,  such  as 
maples  and  other  hard  woods,  the  slash  is  so  fine  and  close 
that  it  never  grows  rough,  and  it  can  be  used  in  furniture, 
interior  finish,  and  floors  quite  as  well  as  quartered 
or  comb-grained  wood.  On  the  other  hand,  in  all 
the  pines,  spruce,  poplars,  some  of  the  ash,  etc., 
the  annual  layers  separate  with  more  or  less  ease. 
An  explanation  of  the  manner  of  growth  and 
cutting  will  help  to  an  understanding  of  why  we 
have  so  many  unsatisfactory  floors,  and  the  remedy  for  them. 


The  mode 
of  sawing 
is  largely 
responsible 

for  the 
wearing 

quality. 


A  brief  ex- 
planation 

of  the 

manner  of 

growth  and 

cutting  of 

wood. 


WOODS  AND  POLISHED  FLOORS 


265 


The  tree  grows  from  the  outside,  each  year  making  a  layer 
that  is  higher  than  that  of  the  preceding  year.  Fig.  48 
shows  roughly  how  these  layers  are 
arranged.  The  space  between  a,  b, 
and  c,  d,  would  give  rift  or  comb- 
grain  boards;  that  between  b  and  c, 
slash  or  bastard.  Fig.  49  shows  the 
rift  and  slash  in  a  pine  board,  a,  a 
is  rift;  b,  slash.  Fig.  50  shows  the 
manner  of  cutting  a  log.  The  half 
a  shows  the  ordinary  way  of  cutting 
which  gives  one  broad  board.  The 
center  of  the  board,  d,  will  contain 
the  short  annual  layers— slash— and 
the  outside,  c,  c,  the  long  annual 
layers— rift.  The  board  is  often 
recut,  giving  two  pieces  of  rift  and 
one  of  slash.  The  half  of  the  log  b 
shows  one  of  the  methods  of  quar- 
tering woods.  This  is  done  a  great  deal  with  the  fine  oaks 
used  for  furniture  and  interior  finish.  By  this  method  the 
wood  is  all  cut  across  the  grain. 

In  laying  floors  that  are  not  to  be  covered,  the  slash  of 
the  soft  woods  should  never  be  used.  Shelves  and  tables  in 
kitchens  and  pantries  should  not  be  made  of  slash  wood. 

Since  bare  floors  are  becoming  almost  univer- 
sal, the  following  advice  from  an  expert  as  to  the 
best  wood,  and  the  manner  of  preparing  and  lay- 
ing them,  will  aid  those  who  want  good  floors 
that  shall  increase  in  beauty  with  years  and  with 
proper  care.  Nothing  is  said  of  inlaid  floors,  as 
this  kind  of  work  should  be  done  by  men  skilled 
in  that  line. 

"The  hard  woods  used  as  flooring  are  oak,  ash,  maple, 
walnut,  mahogany,  and  cherry.    The  so-called  soft  woods 


Fig.  48. 


An  ex- 
pert's ad- 
vice in 
regard  to 
best  wood 
and  man- 
ner of  pre- 
paring for 
floors. 


266 


HOME   ECONOMICS 


are  white  pine,  yellow  pine,  hard  pine,  spruce,  the  poplars, 
and  basswood. 

"  The  hard  woods  do  not  shrink  as  much  as  the  soft  woods. 
Yellow  pine  does  not  absorb  moisture  as  readily  as  some 


Fig.  49. 


Fig.  50. 


woods,  because  of  the  amount  of  resinous  substance  in  it; 
for  this  reason  it  is  excellent  for  kitchen  and  laundry,  or  any 
floors  exposed  to  moisture. 

"  Maple  is  one  of  the  most  satisfactory  woods  for  a  floor. 
It  may  be  used  in  any  part  of  the  house,  from  parlor  to 
kitchen.  It  grows  smoother  and  finer  with  wear.  The  first 
cost  is  greater  than  yellow  pine,  but  it  pays  in  the  end. 

"The  boards  for  floors  should  be  planed  on  both  sides. 
The  planing  on  the  under  side  is  to  prevent  the  wood  from 
absorbing  moisture. 

"  To  insure  the  floor  against  becoming  uneven  because  of 
the  boards  expanding  if  there  is  moisture,  each  board  should 
be  about  one  sixteenth  of  an  inch  narrower  on  the  under  side 
than  on  the  top;  this  allows  of  expansion  and  contraction. 

"  Flooring  should  be  made  of  li-inch  plank,  tongued  and 
grooved.  This  flooring  will  cost  perhaps  one  third  more  than 
that  made  from  the  lj-inch  plank,  but  it  will  be  cheaper  in 
the  end,  because  the  work  will  cost  the  same  with  either 


WOODS  AND  POLISHED  FLOORS  267 

kind,  while  the  thicker  plank  will  wear  more  than  a  third 
longer  than  the  thinner." 

POLISHED   FLOORS 

Slowly  but  surely  the  polished  floor  is  making  its  way  into 
homes  in  all  parts  of  the  country.  "  Oh,"  some  say,  "  it  is 
only  a  fad  which  will  have  its  day,  and  pass  away  like  other 
fads."  On  the  contrary,  it  is  not  a  passing  fad,  but  a  sen- 
sible hygienic  fashion  which  has  come  to  stay,  and  which 
commends  itself  to  all  thinking  people.  The  advantages  of 
such  a  floor  are  its  cleanliness  and  healthfulness,  the  ease 
with  which  a  room  with  such  a  floor  can  be  kept  clean,  and, 
after  the  first  cost,  the  economy  of  it. 

One  has  only  to  observe  the  difference  in  sweeping  a  car- 
peted floor  and  one  that  is  uncarpeted  to  realize  the  greater 
cleanliness  and  healthfulness  of  the  polished  floor. 
When  sweeping  is  being  done  in  the  carpeted  room,    aJjLcJjp 
the  dust  rises  in  clouds,  more  or  less  heavy,  ac-      polished 
cording  to  the  condition  of  the  carpet  and  the     floor  ®asy 
method  of  using  the  broom.     Naturally  the  dust     sanitary, 
settles  on  the  walls,  doors,  and  windows,  and  is 
inhaled  by  the  sweeper.     To  remove  it  requires  time  and 
care,  and  a  second  breathing  of  dust-laden  air  for  the 
sweeper. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  hair  brush  or  dust-mop  may  be 
passed  gently  over  the  polished  floor,  taking  up  all  the  dust 
without  raising  or  scattering  it.  The  dust  on  walls,  wood- 
work, or  furniture  is  but  slightly  increased  by  this  sweeping, 
and  the  person  cleaning  is  not  compelled  to  breathe  disease- 
germs  with  the  dust.  Certainly  the  floors  of  rooms  continu- 
ally in  use,  such  as  the  dining-room,  living-room,  bedrooms, 
and  bath-rooms,  should  be  polished,  or  covered  with  a  fine, 
closely  woven  matting. 

By  polished  floors  is  meant  any  floor  finished  smoothly, 


268  HOME  ECONOMICS 

and  stained,  oiled,  varnished,  waxed,  or  painted.     Any  floor 

of  this  kind  may  be  kept  clean  without  the  aid  of  much 

g    lt         water;  and  this  is  a  great  consideration  when  we 

value  of     realize  that  moisture  is  one  of  the  conditions 

polished     favoring  the  growth  of  bacteria.     Thus  if  the 

boards  forming  the  floor  are  kept  dry  there  will 

be  no  decay,  and  but  slight  chance  for  the  growth  of  germs. 

Although  hard  wood  is  the  most  desirable  material  in 

every  way  for  a  floor,  one  can  manage  with  a  pine  floor  that 

is  fairly  well  finished.    The  tendency  of  pine  boards  to  sliver, 

and  their  softness,  make  it  impossible  to  have  a  beautiful 

floor,  but  one  can  get  fair  results  and  a  reasonable  amount 

of  wear  out  of  it  if  it  is  treated  carefully,  and  if  rugs  are 

laid  where  the  greatest  wear  comes. 

Crude  petroleum  can  be  used  to  cleanse  floors  that  have 

Use  of       keen  painted,  varnished,  or  oiled.     This  oil  not 

crude  pe-     only  cleanses,  but  at  the  same  time  it  gives  a  finish. 

troleum  on    rpj^  refine(j  0}j  mav  a]so  t,e  useo^  but  does  not  clean 

so  quickly  or  thoroughly  as  the  crude  petroleum. 

Before  deciding  on  the  kind  of  finish  to  be  put  on  the  floor, 

the  question  as  to  whether  it  is  to  be  light  or  dark  must  be 

settled.  If  the  floor  is  to  be  kept  the  color  of  the 
°  floor.  6    wo°d,  ^  must  be  waxed  or  varnished  with  a  clear 

varnish.  Oil  darkens  a  wood.  The  more  oil  used, 
the  darker  the  wood  is  made.  Wood  that  is  oiled  darkens 
with  age.  The  lightest  oil  used  for  cleaning  and  oiling  woods 
is  petroleum.  When  linseed-oil,  sweet-oil,  or  paraffin-oil  is 
employed  for  cleaning  or  polishing  woods,  it  is  diluted  with 
turpentine  to  make  it  lighter.  Any  surface  except  a  waxed 
surface  may  be  polished  with  oil. 

HARD-WOOD   FLOORS 

The  daily  care  of  the  polished  floor  is  perhaps  greater 
than  that  of  the  carpet.     But  this  daily  care  is  so  simple, 


WOODS  AND  POLISHED  FLOORS  269 

and  the  outlay  of  time  and  strength  so  small,  that  it  is  very 
little  compared  with  the  amount  of  strength  and  time  one 
must  give  a  carpeted  room  in  the  course  of  a  year. 

Many  persons  object  to  the  wood  floor  on  the  score  of 
danger  and  cold.  When  one  remembers  that  the  hard-wood 
floor  is,  as  a  rule,  an  extra  layer  of  boards,  perfectly  joined, 
it  will  be  seen  that  it  is  a  better  protection  against  wind  and 
dust  than  is  the  carpet.  Besides,  one  always  has  rugs  on 
which  the  feet  rest  when  one  is  sitting.  As  to  danger,  these 
floors  need  not  be  so  highly  polished  that  there  is  danger 
from  them.  An  oiled  floor  is  less  slippery  than  one  that  is 
waxed.  A  floor  polished  with  encaustic  can  be  made  less 
slippery  than  one  polished  with  the  pure  wax.  The  amount 
and  hardness  of  the  rubbing  makes  the  floor  more  or  less 
beautiful,  and  also  more  or  less  slippery. 

Small,  smooth  rugs  should  not  be  put  at  doors  or  on  hall 
floors,  where  one  is  apt  to  walk  quickly  and  without  think- 
ing.    There  is  no  danger  when  the  rug  is  large 
and  heavy.     The  coarse  Japanese  rug  is  excel-    j^Jf-wood 
lent,  because  it  does  not  slip  easily  on  the  pol-       floors, 
ished  surface.     Otherwise,  if  one  disposes  of  the 
rugs  by  couches,  tables,  etc.,  there  is  no  danger.     I  should 
advise  a  strip  of  carpet  on  polished  stairs.     The  sides  can 
be  kept  as  brilliantly  polished  as  one  may  wish.     In  caring 
for  a  hard-wood  floor,  it  must  be  remembered  that     j-.   - 
water  is  one  of  the  worst  things  that  can  be  used,     water  on 
If  at  any  time  there  should  seem  to  be  a  necessity     polished 
for  cleaning  with  water,  it  must  be  only  by  means 
of  a  soft  cloth  wrung  out  of  warm  water.     It  must  also  be 
rubbed  with  another  dry  one.    Then  it  should  be  oiled  or  pol- 
ished at  once.     Any  liquid  spilled  upon  a  waxed  floor  and 
allowed  to  dry  of  itself  will  produce  a  stain  which  can  only 
be  removed  by  hard  rubbing  and  the  encaustic.    Even  drops 
of  clean  cold  water  will  spot  a  waxed  floor  unless  they  are 
wiped  at  once. 


270  HOME  ECONOMICS 

The  daily  care  of  the  hard-wood  floor  is  very  simple.  If 
the  room  is  much  used,  it  must  be  swept  first  with  a  soft  hair 
brush,  then  wiped  with  a  long-handled  dust-mop 
Djf JJJJ6  which  comes  for  this  purpose  and  is  also  known 
as  a  yacht-mop.  When  a  room  is  not  used  much 
the  dust-mop  is  all  that  is  required.  If  there  are  spots  on 
the  floor,  they  should  be  rubbed  with  a  piece  of  flannel  or 
carpet.  If  this  does  not  remove  them,  they  may  be  cleaned 
with  a  little  turpentine  on  a  piece  of  cloth;  this  takes  off  the 
polish,  and  it  will  be  necessary  to  rub  the  spot  with  a  cloth 
moistened  with  encaustic  or  with  oil,  according  to  the  finish, 
and  then  polish  it. 

Once  a  week  all  the  spots  should  be  wiped  clean,  and  a 

cloth  moistened  with  encaustic,  or  oil  and  turpentine,  should 

Weekly      ^e  rubbed  on  any  parts  of  the  floor  where  the  pol- 

care  of      ish  has  worn  off;  then  the  floor  should  be  rubbed 

hard-wood    w^}1  a  weighted  brush.     This  weekly  treatment 

is  only  for  rooms  very  much  used. 

A  floor  that  is  thoroughly  cleaned  and  polished  twice  a 

year  can  be  kept  in  beautiful  condition  by  this  weekly  care. 

These  general  directions  are  for  the  daily  and  weekly  care 

of  well-finished  waxed  or  oiled  floors.     Exact  instruction  is 

Necessity    necessarT  f°r  each  method  of  treatment.     I  have 

of  proper     seen  so  many  floors  spoiled,  the  most  beautiful  as 

^floors**  wel1  as  the  commonest>  by  improper  treatment, 
that  I  shall  go  into  the  minutest  details  of  wax- 
ing, oiling,  and  polishing  floors.  These  directions  will  be 
followed  by  a  summary  of  the  methods,  which  will  give  the 
different  steps  of  the  work  concisely  and  clearly.  Having  read 
the  details  carefully,  the  worker  will  find  the  summary  a  clear 
and  simple  guide. 

WAXED   FLOORS 

The  floor  to  be  waxed  should  be  perfectly  smooth  and 
clean.    The  boards  of  a  close-grained  wood  made  perfectly 


WOODS  AND  POLISHED  FLOORS  271 

smooth  can  be  waxed  without  any  other  preparation.  An 
open-grained  wood  will  require  filling.  If  the  wood  is  de- 
sired one  or  many  shades  darker  than  the  original  Preparing 
tone,  some  color  can  be  put  in  with  the  filler.  The  the  floor 
filling  and  staining,  if  any,  are  generally  done  by  '}rwazmS' 
the  men  who  finish  the  floors.  (See  "  Finishing,  Filling,  and 
Staining  of  Floors.") 

The  wax  for  polishing  can  be  bought  prepared  for  use,  or 
it  can  be  prepared  at  home.  (See  encaustics  No.  1  and 
No.  2.)  The  prepared  polishes  come  in  liquid  and  in  solid 
form.  The  liquid  is  more  easily  put  on,  and  requires  little 
rubbing  to  give  the  boards  a  high  polish;  but  the  surface  is 
more  slippery  than  when  the  more  solid  forms  are  used. 

Put  the  wax  where  it  will  be  getting  warm  and  soft. 
Have  the  room  thoroughly  swept  and  dusted,  all  the  furni- 
ture dusted,  the  lighter  pieces  removed  from  the  room,  and 
the  windows  washed.  Wipe  all  the  dust  from  the  floor  with 
a  damp  cloth.  Go  over  the  floor  carefully,  and  clean  any 
soiled  places  with  turpentine  and  a  flannel  cloth. 

Should  black  stains,  from  water  or  other  causes,  come  on 
the  boards,  pour  a  strong  solution  of  oxalic  acid  on  the  spot, 
letting  it  remain  until  the  stain  disappears.    The 
acid  not  only  removes  the  stain,  but  also  the  color    Amoving 

J  stams  with. 

from  the  wood,  and  this  must  be  restored  before    oxalic  acid. 
polishing.     (See   "Restoring  Color  to  Wood.") 
When  all  the  floor  has  been  cleaned  in  this  way,  moisten  a 
flannel  cloth  with  the  soft  wax,  being  careful  not  to  have  any 
large  or  hard  bits  of  wax  on  it.     Rub  the  floor  all    Metllod  of 
over  with  this  cloth,  renewing  the  wax  whenever     applying 
necessary.    When  all  is  done,  let  the  floor  remain      w**  to 
in  this  condition  an  hour  or  more,  if  there  is  time; 
then  polish  it  with  a  weighted  brush,  rubbing  with  the  brush 
until  a  soft  luster  comes.     When  the  whole  floor  has  been 
polished  in  this  manner,  cover  the  brush  with  a  large  woolen 
cloth  or  a  piece  of  clean  woolen  carpet,  fastening  the  cover 


272  HOME  ECONOMICS 

on  the  brush  with  safety-pins.     Rub  the  floor  with  this,  and 
the  surface  will  take  on  a  higher  polish. 

TO   CLEAN   AND   WAX   AT   THE  SAME   TIME 

When  the  floor  is  very  much  soiled,  it  can  be  cleaned  and 
polished  at  the  same  time  by  using  encaustic  No.  2  and  tur- 
pentine. 

Put  the  encaustic  in  a  bowl,  then  set  in  a  pan  of  boiling 
water.  Have  the  floor  swept  and  dusted.  Have  two  woolen 
cloths  and  several  pieces  of  old  cotton;  waste  cotton  is  very 
good  if  it  can  be  procured  with  ease,  but  any  kind  of  soft 
uncolored  cotton  will  answer. 

When  the  encaustic  is  hot,  add  about  an  equal  volume  of 
turpentine  to  it.  Keep  the  bowl  in  hot  water,  but  away 
Method  of  ^rom  ^e  fire>  as  there  is  danger  from  the  turpen- 
appiying  tine.  Dip  one  of  the  flannel  cloths  in  the  hot 
n  a^ti  mix*ure>  and  begin  at  one  side  of  the  room,  rub- 
bing as  large  a  space  as  you  can  comfortably 
until  it  is  clean.  Then  with  the  cotton  cloth  wipe  off  the 
soiled  cleaning-mixture;  next  polish  with  the  second  piece 
of  flannel. 

If  the  floor  is  not  very  dirty,  and  requires  polishing  only, 
dip  a  brush  or  cloth  in  the  hot  mixture  and  go  over  the  floor 
Polishing,  ^tekty  Du^  thoroughly.  Let  this  stand  until  dry, 
which  will  take  two  or  three  hours;  then  polish 
with  the  weighted  brush  as  directed  in  the  first  rule  for  pol- 
ishing a  waxed  floor. 

The  encaustic  can  be  used  on  any  waxed  floor  or  on  a 
varnished  floor. 

SUMMARY 

1.  Put  encaustic  No.  2  in  a  bowl,  which  place  on  the  fire 
in  a  pan  of  hot  water. 


WOODS  AND  POLISHED  FLOORS  273 

2.  Sweep  and  wipe  floor. 

3.  Add  equal  volume  of  turpentine  to  hot  encaustic,  and 
dip  woolen  cloth  into  mixture;  clean  with  this.  Wipe  with 
cotton  cloth,  and  polish  with  woolen  cloth.  Or,  go  over  floor 
quickly  with  cloth  dipped  in  hot  mixture. 

Let  the  floor  stand  for  several  hours,  and  then  polish  with 
weighted  brush.  This  treatment  can  be  given  to  regularly 
waxed  floors  or  to  varnished  floors. 

STAINED   FLOORS  WAXED 


Stained  floors  can  be  waxed  with  any  of  the  prepared 
waxes,  or  with  encaustic  No.  1.    Never  use  No.  2, 
as  it  would  take  the  color  out  of  the  boards. 
Proceed  as  directed   in  first  rule  for  waxing.        floors. 


To  wax 

stained 


GENERAL   DIRECTIONS   FOR   OILING   FLOORS 

The  oiled  floor  is  often  unsatisfactory  because  the  work 
has  been  done  improperly.  Sometimes  the  oil  used  was  too 
heavy,  and  it  may  not  have  been  rubbed  into  the  wood 
thoroughly.  Then,  again,  the  floor  and  room  may  not  have 
been  perfectly  clean,  so  that  the  floating  dust  lodged  in  the 
oiled  surface  and  soon  became  black  and  unsightly. 

If  the  boards  are  new,  and  one  wants  to  saturate  them 
with  boiled  linseed-oil,  the  oil  should  be  made  rather  hot. 
Have  the  room  and  floor  perfectly  clean.     Dip  a      .    j. 
broad  paint-brush  in  the  oil  and  go  over  the  floor,       tion  of 
working  the  brush  back  and  forth  on  the  boards    li^boil/dil 
as  if  painting.   Let  this  stand  for  an  hour  or  more ; 
then  cover  a  weighted  brush  with  a  woolen  cloth,  and  go 
over  all  the  floor,  rubbing  with  the  grain  of  the  wood.     The 
polishing  must  be  continued  until  the  floor  looks  smooth  and 
not  oily. 

Another  way  is  to  mix  two  thirds  boiled  linseed-oil  with 

18 


274  HOME   ECONOMICS 

one  third  turpentine.  Wet  a  cloth  in  this  mixture,  and  rub 
it  into  the  boards,  following  this  with  a  brisk  rubbing  with 
a  woolen  cloth  in  the  hands  or  on  a  weighted  brush. 

The  secret  of  success  in  oiling  wood  of  any  description  is 

to  use  a  good  quality  of  oil,  with  enough  turpentine  or  al- 

g      .   .     cohol  added  to  make  it  rather  light— from  one 

in    fourth  to  one  half  as  much  turpentine  or  alcohol 


oilins       as  oil.     Have  the  surface  to  be  oiled  perfectly 

clean  and  free  from  floating  dust.     Rub  the  oil 

mixture  well  in,  and  let  it  stand  an  hour  or  more  to  dry. 

Finally,  rub  the  surface  briskly  with  a  woolen  cloth  until  it 

has  taken  a  polish  and  there  is  no  moist  oil  on  the  surface. 

A  floor  with  any  kind  of  finish  except  wax  can  be  oiled  in 
this  manner.   Painted  floors,  linoleum,  and  oil-cloth  are  much 

Oiline       improved  by  this  treatment.     They  should  first  be 

painted      thoroughly  washed,  then  rubbed  with  a  cloth  made 

floors,  lin-    damp  with  oil  and  turpentine  in  equal  proportions, 

and  polished  with  the  woolen  cloth.     Such  floors 

are  not  soiled  easily,  and  they  retain  their  luster  and  softness 

for  years  if  they  are  thus  treated. 

SUMMARY 

1.  Have  floor  and  room  free  from  dust. 

2.  Dampen  a  woolen  cloth  with  boiled  linseed-oil  and 
turpentine,  and  rub  into  boards,  rubbing  with  the  grain. 

3.  Polish  the  oiled  surface  with  a  dry  woolen  cloth. 

4.  If  boards  are  new,  and  it  is  desired  that  they  absorb 
much  oil,  have  oil  heated  and  put  on  thickly  with  woolen 
cloth  or  brush.  Let  the  floor  stand  a  few  hours  to  have  the 
oil  strike  in;  then  polish. 

CLEANING  WITH  PETROLEUM 

Have  the  room  and  floor  free  from  dust.  Wet  a  woolen 
cloth  with  petroleum,— either  the  crude  or  the  refined  article 


WOODS  AND  POLISHED  FLOORS  275 

may  be  used,— and  rub  the  boards  briskly,  rubbing  with  the 
grain.  When  all  is  finished,  let  it  stand  an  hour  or  two  to 
dry,  then  polish  with  a  woolen  cloth.  If  the  pol- 
ishing is  not  done,  dust  will  adhere  to  the  floor,  and  TJe  imP01>: 
if  the  boards  are  varnished  or  painted  they  will  polishing, 
have  a  cloudy  appearance  in  a  day  or  two.  The 
odor  of  petroleum  is  very  disagreeable,  but  if  there  be  a  free 
sweep  of  air  through  the  room  it  passes  off  in  a  short  time. 
Petroleum  does  not  contain  enough  fat  to  give  a  fine, 
soft  finish  to  boards;  therefore  the  floor  should  be  treated 
with  boiled  linseed-oil  and  turpentine  about  once  in  two  or 
three  months  when  a  room  is  not  subjected  to  hard  usage. 
For  a  kitchen  floor  once  a  month  is  a  fair  average. 

APPLIANCES   USED   IN  POLISHING   FLOORS 

Upon  the  right  selection  and  proper  treatment  of  the  ap- 
pliances used  in  the  care  of  floors  will  depend  the  success 
and  ease  with  which  the  work  is  done.  There  will  be  re- 
quired soft  cloths  (woolen,  when  possible),  clean  pieces  of 
carpet,  one  long-handled  and  one  short-handled  hair  brush, 
one  dust-mop  (sometimes  known  as  a  yacht-mop),  one  dust- 
pan, one  weighted  brush,  boiled  linseed-oil,  turpentine,  wax, 
and  a  metallic  or  stone  receptacle  for  cloths  used  in  oiling 
and  waxing. 

The  weighted  brush,  oil,  turpentine,  and  wax  are  the  only 
additional  appliances  necessary  for  the  care  of  polished 
floors;  all  the  other  implements  are  such  as  are  also  required 
for  ordinary  floors. 

The  weighted  brush  may  be  bought  at  any  first-class 
kitchen-furnishing  store,  and  it  costs  about  five        The 
dollars.     It  is  indispensable  in  a  house  where  floors     weighted 
are  waxed,  and  is  most  useful  in  polishing  any    ^h^d 
floor.    It  is  a  broad,  flat  brush  made  from  the  best 
Russian  bristles.    On  this  brush  is  fastened  a  loaded  top. 


276  HOME  ECONOMICS 

A  long  handle,  which  can  be  bent  to  a  certain  angle,  is  fasttj 
ened  into  this.  When  this  brush  is  placed  on  the  waxed! 
surface  it  is  pushed  back  and  forth  until  the  boards  take  it 
high  polish.  At  first  it  moves  with  difficulty,  but  after  iij 
has  passed  back  and  forth  over  the  surface  two  or  thretj 
times  it  slides  over  easily.  On  no  consideration  must  this 
brush  become  oily.  When  any  oiled  surface  is  to  be  poll 
ished,  the  brush  is  covered  with  a  thick  woolen  cloth  oil 
piece  of  carpet,  which  can  be  fastened  on  with  safety-pinsj 
It  is  important  that  this  brush  be  kept  perfectly  clean,  and 
for  this  reason  it  must  always  be  kept  covered  when  not  in 
use. 

Make  a  cotton  bag  with  running-strings;  slip  the  brush  in 
this,  and  tie.    This  brush  is  so  heavy  that  it  should  have  i 

place  to  stand  where  it  will  not  often  be  neces- 
Ca.re  £f,  sary  to  carry  it  over  the  stairs.  Of  course  floon 
brush.      can  be  polished  by  getting  down  on  one's  hands 

and  knees  and  polishing  with  brush  or  cloth,  but 
this  is  very  hard,  slow  work.  The  French  have  brushes  thai 
can  be  strapped  on  the  feet,  and  most  of  the  polishing  is 
done  in  this  way.     This  work  is  usually  done  by  men. 

About  once  in  two  or  three  months  wash  the  brush  in  the- 
following  manner:   Half  fill  a  pail  with  tepid  water,  and  to 

this  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  household  am- 

weighted    mon*a-     Soak  tne  brush  in  this  for  about  hall 

brush.      an  hour.     Sop  it  up  and  down  in  the  water, 

then  rinse  thoroughly  in  clear,  cold  water. 
Wipe  and  turn  it  up  to  dry  in  a  current  of  air.  Iti 
takes  some  time  to  dry,  so  the  washing  should  not  be  at- 
tempted just  before  polishing  the  floor.  The  drying  must! 
never  be  hurried  by  placing  the  brush  near  heat,  as  thati 
would  spoil  it.  With  this  care  a  weighted  brush  ought  to 
be  serviceable  from  ten  to  twenty  years.  When  the  bristles 
are  worn  out  a  new  brush  can  be  put  on  the  loaded  top. 
The  dust-mop,  which  is  a  thick  mop  of  soft  cotton  thread] 


WOODS  AND  POLISHED  FLOORS  277 

fastened  to  a  long  handle,  costs  about  seventy-five  cents. 

One  can  with  this  wipe  up  the  dust  from  a  large  floor  in 

five  or  ten  minutes.     It  should  be  thoroughly 

shaken  every  time  it  is  used,  to  remove  the  dust.       mop!**" 

Once  a  fortnight  soak  it  in  ammonia  water  as 

directed  for  the  weighted  brush,  then  wash  and  rinse  in 

warm  water,  and  hang  out  to  dry. 

The  woolen  cloths  used  in  waxing,  oiling,  and  polishing 
are  too  valuable  to  be  thrown  away,  and  until  they  are  really 
dirty  they  can  be  used  again  and  again,  the  oil  and  the  wax 
with  which  they  are  saturated  making  them  more  valuable. 
When,  however,  they  do  become  dirty,  they  must  be  cleansed. 

Dissolve  two  tablespoonf uls  of  washing-soda  in  four  quarts 
of  boiling  water,  and  pour  into  a  pail.  Put  all  the  woolen 
cleaning-cloths  in  this,  and  let  them  soak  for  an 
hour,  stirring  them  several  times  with  a  stick.  3oSS° 
At  the  end  of  this  time  add  a  gallon  or  more 
boiling  water  to  the  contents  of  the  pail,  which  place  in  the 
sink.  With  the  stick  work  the  cloths  about  in  this  water 
for  a  few  minutes,  then  pour  off  the  water,  and  add  hot  soap- 
suds, and  work  them,  as  before,  with  the  stick.  Rinse  them 
in  fresh  hot  water.  All  the  dirt  and  soda  will  have  been 
washed  out  in  this  manner.  Put  two  quarts  of  warm  water 
and  a  tablespoonful  of  linseed-oil  in  a  pail.  Rinse  the  cloths 
in  this,  and  put  them  out  to  dry.  The  soda  will  have  re- 
moved all  the  dirt  and  wax,  and  also  some  of  the  natural 
oil  of  the  wool.  The  oil  is  put  in  the  last  water  to  replace 
the  oil  washed  from  the  wool  and  thus  keep  it  soft. 

The  pieces  of  carpet  used  in  polishing  must  taciesfor 
receive  the  same  treatment.  All  materials  used  polishing 
in  oiling  and  polishing  must  be  kept  in  covered  ^f  dot£[ 
non-combustible  receptacles,  because  these  mate- 
rials are  liable  to  spontaneous  combustion.  Stone  jars  with 
covers,  or  tin  pails  or  boxes,  make  safe  receptacles  for  cloths 
saturated  with  oil  or  turpentine. 


278  HOME  ECONOMICS 

Casters  or  rubber  pads  on  furniture  ruin  a  fine  floor.. 

Felt  pads     Have  that  part  of  every  piece  of  furniture  which; 

for         rests  on  the  floor  covered  with  thick  felt.     This4 
furniture.     {q  glued  Qn      with  thig  felt  finigh^  heayy  pieceJ 

of  furniture  can  be  moved  with  great  ease. 

The  thick  felt  which  may  be  purchased  at  the  paint- J 
To  fasten     supply  shops  is  the  best  for  this  purpose  because] 

felt  on  of  its  thickness,  but  it  is  very  expensive.  Oldi 
furniture,     ^^  ^^  may  ^Q  uge(j  |ns-tead. 

Cut  the  felt  to  fit  exactly  the  bottom  of  the  foot  of  the 
piece  of  furniture.  Spread  on  this,  and  on  the  surface  to 
be  covered,  a  thin  layer  of  glue,  and  fasten  in  place.  In  the 
case  of  heavy  pieces  there  will  be  pressure  enough  to  hold  i 
the  felt  firmly  in  place,  but  chairs  and  light  tables  should  I 
have  additional  weight  placed  upon  them. 

PIAZZA   FLOORS 

Taken  all  in  all,  oiling  is  the  best  treatment  for  piazza 
floors.  Use  clear  boiled  linseed-oil,  very  hot.  Have  the 
piazza  perfectly  clean  and  dry.  Apply  the  hot  oil  with  a 
brush.  Let  this  dry  for  a  day,  and  then  apply  a  second  coat 
of  hot  oil.  The  next  day  give  a  third  coating  of  the  hot  oil. 
When  this  dries,  rub  the  piazza  smooth  with  clean  pieces  of 
old  carpet. 

The  more  oil  the  boards  absorb,  the  better  they  will  look 
and  the  less  danger  there  is  of  decay.  After  this  first 
thorough  treatment  with  oil,  all  that  will  be  re- 
servative!  quired  in  the  future  is  an  oiling  whenever  the 
boards  begin  to  look  dry  and  rusty.  After  the 
thorough  oiling  and  rubbing  such  floors  can  be  varnished. 
It  is  important  that  a  'good  "  outside "  varnish  should  be 
used.  The  person  cleaning  and  polishing  floors  should  wear 
soft,  clean  slippers. 


CHAPTER  XIII 

TREATMENT  OF  WOOD  FINISHES 

To  restore  color  and  finish  to  wood.  Summary.  How  to  make  pads  for 
wood  finishing.  To  clean  and  restore  the  polish  on  woods.  Summary. 
To  clean  the  woodwork  of  furniture. 

The  woodwork  of  the  finish  and  furniture  of  the  house  is 
often  in  need  of  slight  repairs  for  which  it  is  not  worth  while 
to  call  in  a  regular  cleaner  and  restorer,  even  if  it  is  always 
possible  to  find  such  a  person.  If  one  knows  what  to  do  in 
such  cases,  all  these  finishes  may  be  kept  in  good  condition 
with  a  slight  outlay  of  time  and  strength.  It  is,  in  fact, 
analogous  to  the  care  of  the  household  linen,  where  the 
stitch  in  time  saves  nine. 

TO   RESTORE  COLOR  AND   FINISH   TO   WOOD 

A  piece  of  furniture,  a  door,  or  a  mantel  has  been 
scratched,  stained,  or  otherwise  marred;  it  is  a 

constant  annoyance,  and  what  a  relief  it  is  to  be  tr^t^nt 

able  one's  self  to  give  it  the  little  careful  treat-  can  some- 

ment  that  is  necessary!     If  the  following  direc-  ti°ie*  re" 

4.'  4.    •  i.'  4.1.  1  U  P*11  daItt' 

tions  are  put  m  practice  the  work  may  be  success- 


fully done  by  any  one. 

The  marred  place  must  be  rubbed  smooth  with  the  finest 
grades  of  sandpaper.    Take  a  small  piece  of  paper  not  more 

279 


280  HOME  ECONOMICS 

than  two  inches  square,  and  rub  the  spot  gently  until  the 
surface  is  as  smooth  as  glazed  paper.     There  should  be  no 

appearance  of  lines  or  scratches  on  the  wood, 
rth^nd-  This  con(^^ion  can  ^e  reached  only  by  light, 
paper.       gentle  rubbing,  and  it  may  take  several  pieces  of 

sandpaper  to  do  the  work.  If  the  marred  place 
is  large  or  deep  use  a  medium  grade  of  sandpaper  at  first, 
and  finish  with  the  finest. 

Wipe  all  dust  from  the  spot,  then  oil  it.     Make  several 

small  pads,  not  larger  than  a  walnut.    Wet  a  pad  with 

.    j  .        paraffin-oil,  then  with  shellac.     Touch  the  sur- 

paraflm-     face  of  the  damp  pad   lightly  with  the   color 

oil,  shellac,    y0U  are  about  to  use,  and  rub  gently  on  the 

spot.  The  motion  must  be  light  and  even,  a 
gliding  movement.  If  pressure  is  used  at  first,  and  if  the 
pad  is  raised  and  lowered,  the  surface  will  be  cloudy  and 
uneven.  This  is  true  of  any  polishing  when  shellac  is  used. 
Put  a  little  more  oil,  shellac,  and  color  on  the  pad,  and  go 
over  the  surface  once  more.  Do  this  again  and  again,  until 
the  desired  color  has  been  obtained.  When  the  pad  be- 
comes a  little  hard,  take  a  fresh  one.  It  may  require  several 
pads  to  do  the  work.  If  it  should  happen  that  you  get  too 
much  color  in  the  spot,  it  may  be  made  light  by  wetting  a 
clean  pad  with  alcohol  and  going  over  the  dark  place  lightly 
and  gently.     If  there  are  two  or  three  shades  in  the  color 

that  you  wish  to  restore,  the  several  pigments 

variftLy  of  s^ou^  De  Pu^  on  ^ne  Pa(*  a^  the  same  time, 
tone.  just  a  touch  of  each,  naturally  using  more  of 
the  predominating  color;  as,  for  example,  in 
mahogany,  where  Bismarck  brown,  yellow  ocher,  and  aniline 
black  are  used,  Bismarck  brown  is  the  principal  color,  and 
there  is  only  the  suggestion  of  aniline  black.  The  dry 
powder  is  used  in  the  method  given. 

The  colors  should  be  taken  up  on  the  point  of  a  penknife 
or  of  a  stick.    It  may  be  thought  by  the  beginner  that  it  is 


TREATMENT  OF  WOOD  FINISHES  281 

a  waste  of  time  to  go  over  the  surface  so  often,  using  such 
homeopathic  doses,  but  it  is  the  only  way  to  bring  up  the  col- 
or to  match  the  old  shade.   The  movement  of  the      xee&  0f 
hand  and  arm  must  be  free  and  sweeping,  the     many  ftp- 
pad   gliding  over  onto  the   uninjured   surface.    p  lca  ons" 

Before  beginning  the  work,  examine  the  finish  carefully, 
and  decide  what  colors  enter  into  its  composition.  You  will 
find  that  woods  of  the  same  kind  vary  greatly 
as  to  the  shades  of  color  in  the  finish.  For  ex-  tanceof 
ample,  black  walnut  in  some  pieces  of  furniture  getting  ex- 
has  yellow  tones  predominating,  while  in  other  a0Cfcs0iore 
pieces  red  and  black  tones  are  more  notice- 
able. A  list  of  colors  for  the  different  woods  is  given  below, 
but  you  must  use  your  own  eyes  and  judgment  as  to  the 
amount  of  each  required.  After  each  fresh  application  of 
color,  examine  carefully  to  see  if  you  are  getting  in  the 
right  shades.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  practise  a  few  times  on 
old  or  new  boards  before  attempting  either  woodwork  or 
furniture ;  you  will  be  surprised,  after  that,  to  find  how  easy 
and  interesting  the  work  becomes.  Here  is  a  list  of  colors 
for  the  woods  in  common  use. 

Mahogany  and  cherry— Bismarck  brown,  with  a  little  yel- 
low ocher  and  a  suggestion   of  aniline   black. 

Black  walnut— burnt  umber,  yellow  ocher  if  yel-     Colors  of 
low  is  required,  Bismarck  brown  if  red  is  required.     JIJjjJjJj 

Oak— raw  or  burnt  umber,  until  the  color  comes.        use. 

Light  woods— raw  umber. 

Burnt  sienna  may  be  substituted  for  Bismarck  brown,  or 
it  may  be  used  with  it.  When  the  cherry  is  a  decided  red- 
dish shade,  burnt  sienna  is  best,  and  it  may  be  that  no 
other  color  will  be  required. 

SUMMARY 

1.  Examine  finish  to  decide  on  colors  to  be  used. 

2.  Make  small  pads. 


282  HOME  ECONOMICS 

3.  Have  small  bottles  of  shellac,  turpentine,  paraffin,  or 
boiled  linseed-oil. 

4.  Sandpaper  the  marred  place,  and  then  dust  thoroughly. 

5.  Oil  the  sandpapered  place. 

6.  Wet  pad  with  oil,  then  with  shellac,  then  put  on  a  light 
coating  of  the  color. 

7.  Rub  the  spot  with  pad,  letting  the  motion  be  light, 
free,  and  gliding. 

8.  When  pad  begins  to  dry,  wet  with  oil  and  shellac,  and 
add  a  little  color;  continue  this  until  required  color  is  ob- 
tained. 

9.  Change  pads  for  fresh  ones  whenever  they  begin  to 
grow  rough  and  hard. 

10.  Remember  that  the  rubbing  must  be  light  and  even, 
and  that  shellac  will  not  admit  of  friction,  the  surface  be- 
coming rough  and  clouded  when  hard  rubbing  is  used  in  the 
first  application.  As  the  surface  begins  to  dry,  the  pressure 
may  be  increased  slightly  (this  is  at  the  end  of  each  applica- 
tion of  oil,  shellac,  and  color). 

Dents  in  wood  may  be  removed  in  the  following  manner: 
Take  several  thicknesses  of  soft  brown  paper  and  soak  in 
Method  of  ^ot  water.  Lay  this  wet  pad  on  the  dent,  put 
removing  one  or  two  thicknesses  of  wet  cloth  over  this, 
denotsdm  and  then  lay  a  red-hot  iron  over  all.  As  soon 
as  cloth  and  paper  are  nearly  dry,  wet  and 
apply  again,  as  before.  If  the  dent  is  deep  it  will  take  sev- 
eral applications  of  the  wet  materials  and  hot  iron  to  raise 
it.  A  dent  in  wood  is  only  the  layers  pressed  more  closely 
together  than  is  natural;  the  heat  and  moisture  cause  the 
fibers  to  swell  and  fill  the  original  space. 

If  the  dent  is  small,  a  hot  poker  will  answer  for  the  work; 
on  a  large  place  a  shovel  may  be  used.  When  the  dent  is 
not  deep,  polishing  with  oil,  shellac,  and  color,  if  needed,  will 
answer  all  purposes.  Follow  the  directions  given  for  color 
and  polish. 


TREATMENT  OF  WOOD  FINISHES  28'6 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PADS  FOR   WOOD  FINISHING 

Make  smooth,  hard  little  rolls  of  cotton  batting  about  the 
size  of  a  small  walnut;  cover  these  with  bits  of  old  linen, 
cotton,  or  cheese-cloth.  Leave  the  ends  long  enough  to  get 
a  firm  hold.  Fasten  by  winding  a  thread  round  the  cloth 
where  it  is  drawn  over  the  ball  of  cotton. 

The  points  to  be  especially  careful  of  in  making  these 
pads  are  that  the  ball  of  cotton  should  be  smooth  and  firm, 
and  that  the  cloth  must  be  drawn  smoothly  over  it  and 
tied  securely. 

TO  CLEAN   AND   RESTORE  THE  POLISH  ON  WOODS 

In  the  course  of  time  finely  polished  woods  become  dull 
and  cloudy;  the  dampness  in  the  atmosphere  also  has  this 
effect  on  polished  surfaces.  The  brilliancy  and  luster  may 
be  restored  by  thorough  rubbing  with  the  proper  appliances. 
The  methods  here  given  may  be  used  on  the  finest  finishes, 
be  they  oil  or  Varnish;  but  the  treatment  is  not  intended  for 
waxed  surfaces. 

Rottenstone,  pumice-stone,  tripoli,  all  finely  powdered, 
turpentine,  paraffin-oil,  alcohol,  felt,  soft  cotton,  Appliailceg 
and  linen  cloths  will  be  required  for  the  work,  necessary 
Willingness  and  strength  to  rub  carefully  and  ?or  rest°£" 
thoroughly  are  also  essential. 

Take  a  small  block  of  wood  about  the  size  of  a  brick,— a 
brick,  in  fact,  will  do  very  well,— and  cover  it  with  several 
thicknesses  of  cotton  batting;  over  this  put  sev- 
eral thicknesses  of  old  cotton  cloth,  and  finally  the  rubber, 
lay  on  two  or  three  thicknesses  of  old  linen.  The 
various  layers  may  be  sewed  in  place.  This  is  the  "  rubber." 
Two  pieces  of  felt,  each  about  eight  inches  long  and  five 
wide,  will  be  needed. 


284  HOME  ECONOMICS 

Mix  together  enough  rottenstone  and  oil  to  make  a  paste 
the  consistency  of  thin  cream.  Spread  this  on  the  sur- 
face to  be  polished,  and  rub  with  one  of  the 
Method  of  pjeces  0f  f  eit,  using  at  first  a  circular  movement, 
polish.  then  rubbing  across,  and  finally  with,  the  grain 
of  the  wood.  The  oil  and  rottenstone  should 
be  renewed  whenever  needed,  and  on  no  account  should  the 
rubbing  be  continued  when  the  rottenstone  gets  so  dry  that 
there  is  the  least  friction,  which  would  cause  slight  markings 
on  the  varnish.  When  the  movement  of  the  felt  begins  to 
be  slightly  impeded,  put  a  little  more  oil  on  the  surface  to 
be  polished.  When  the  desired  luster  has  been  obtained, 
continue  to  rub  gently  until  all  the  oil  and  rottenstone  have 
been  worked  off.  Then  rub  with  the  clean  felt  until  the 
surface  is  dry  and  brilliant.  The  finish  is  now  cleaned  and 
polished;  but  it  will  not  keep  in  this  condition  if  there  is  not 
a  final  dressing  with  oil. 

Wet  a  soft  cloth  with  a  mixture,  half  paraffin-oil  and  half 

turpentine.     Rub  the  wood  well  with  this,  and  let  it  stand 

about  an  hour;  then  sprinkle  with  the  fine  tripoli, 

Final       an(j  \e^  ft  stand  again  an  hour  or  more  to  absorb 

oil.         any  oil  there  may  be  on  the  surface  of  the  finish. 

Wipe  off  the  tripoli,  and  polish  with  the  linen 

rubber,  rubbing  with  the  grain  of  the  wood. 

When  applying  the  oil  and  rottenstone  with  the  felt,  the 

pressure  must  not  be  too  great,  as  there  is  danger  of  cutting 

Manner  of    tnr(mgn  *ne  varnish.     The  movement  must  be 

applying    regular,  and  continued  long  enough  to  produce  a 

stonTetc.     g00(*  ^ea*  °f  heat*    ^nly  a  Portion  of  a  larSe  sur" 
face  should  be  done  at  a  time.    Pumice-stone  may 

be  used  on  oiled  surfaces,  or  on  finishes  that  are  not  very 

fine  or  that  are  very  dirty.     On  a  flat  surface  like  a  table 

the  oil  may  be  poured  on,  and  the  powdered  rottenstone  be 

sprinkled  over  it.     If  it  is  not  convenient  to  use  paraffin-oil, 

linseed-oil  can  be  substituted. 


TREATMENT  OF  WOOD  FINISHES  285 

Instead  of  the  oil  and  rottenstone  or  pumice-stone,  the 
furniture-cleaner  and  -polisher  may  be  used. 

The  felt  for  applying  the  oils  may  be  bought  at  a  painter's 
supply  shop.  As  it  is  expensive,  after  it  has  been  used  it 
should  be  washed  thoroughly  in  hot  soap  and 
water,  and  rinsed  in  a  hot  solution  of  sal-soda,  ^feit.1^ 
then  rinsed  in  plenty  of  clear  water,  and  dried. 
Old  felt  hats  may  be  used  instead  of  the  felt  one  gets  at 
the  paint-shops. 

There  are  other  modes  of  polishing  dulled  surfaces,  but  I 
consider  this  the  best,  and  will  not,  therefore,  give  the 
others. 

SUMMARY 

1.  Mix  oil  and  rottenstone  to  the  consistency  of  thin 
cream. 

2.  Spread  some  of  this  mixture  on  the  surface  to  be  pol- 
ished, and  rub  gently,  regularly,  and  for  a  long  time  with  a 
piece  of  felt,  renewing  mixture  or  oil  when  needed. 

3.  Finish  polishing  with  clean  piece  of  felt. 

4.  Oil,  and  let  stand  one  hour. 

5.  Sprinkle  with  tripoli,  and  let  stand  an  hour  or  more. 

6.  Wipe  off  tripoli,  and  polish  with  linen  rubber. 

TO   CLEAN   THE   WOODWORK   OF   FURNITURE 

Varnished  woodwork,  when  it  becomes  very  much  soiled, 
may  be  washed  with  soap  and  water,  if  the  varnish  is  un- 
broken.    But  if  the  varnish  is  worn  off,  or  if  there 
is  a  scratch  deep  enough  to  cut  through  the  var-    ^^LJJJ? 
nish,  water  should  not  be  used  until  the  surface      may  be 
has  been  soaked  in  oil  for  some  time.    When  the    vJJ^s£ed 
wood  is  unprotected  by  varnish  or  oil,  the  water    woodwork, 
penetrates  it,  and  makes  a  dark  stain,  which 
grows  darker  with  time  and  spoils  the  appearance  of  the 


286  HOME  ECONOMICS 

wood.  It  is  necessary,  therefore,  to  examine  the  wood  care- 
fully before  beginning  to  clean  it.  However,  it  is  always 
safe  to  use  the  oil  first,  as  it  not  only  penetrates  the  wood, 
but  it  also  softens  the  dirt. 

1.  Pour  some  paraffin-oil  in  a  saucer;  dip  a  soft  cloth  in 
this  and  go  over  the  soiled  woodwork,  making  it  quite  wet 

with  the  oil.     Let  this  stand  an  hour  or  two. 
cleaning         2.  Make  a  strong  suds  with  soap  and  water, 
varnished    wet  a  WOolen  cloth  in  this,  and  wash  the  wood, 
using  a  good  deal  of  pressure  in  rubbing  the  sur- 
face.   When  the  woodwork  is  clean,  wipe  it  dry. 

3.  Put  into  a  bottle  one  pint  of  paraffin-oil  and  half  a  pint 
of  turpentine;  shake  well.  Wet  a  soft  cloth  with  this  mix- 
ture, and  go  over  the  cleaned  wood.  Let  it  stand  a  little 
while  to  evaporate;  then  rub  with  a  dry  linen  or  cotton 
cloth,  rubbing  briskly.  It  gives  the  surface  a  finer  polish 
if,  after  the  rubbing  with  the  linen  cloth,  a  fresh  linen  cloth, 
wet  with  a  mixture  of  one  part  oil  and  three  parts  alcohol, 
is  rubbed  lightly  and  quickly  on  the  polished  wood.  Alco- 
hol or  vinegar  may  be  substituted  for  the  turpentine,  if  the 
odor  is  disagreeable. 

When  the  woodwork  does  not  require  cleaning,  but  looks 
dull  or  faded,  polish  with  the  turpentine  and  oil. 

If  a  piece  of  furniture  has  stood  near  a  window,  register 

or  other  heating  apparatus,  the  oil  will  be  evaporated  from 

that  part  that  has  been  exposed  to  the  heat  of 

fade/by     *ne  sun  or  *°  n°t  au%  an^  wiU  become  faded  and 

exposure  to    full  of  fine  lines.    To  remedy  this,  oil  the  surface 

or^o^aix    w^  Pure  D0^e(i  linseed-oil,  rubbing  it  in  well. 

maybe      Several  oilings  may  be  required  to  bring  back  the 

'with*       ^nish  ancl  color-     I*  Parts  of  furniture  thus  ex- 
linseed-oil.    posed  are  watched,  and  oil  is  promptly  applied  as 
soon  as  it  is  needed,  much  trouble  will  be  saved. 
Treatment       Carvings  and  the  grooved  parts  of  furniture  must 

carvings,     be  oiled  with  a  small  brush  kept  for  this  purpose. 


TREATMENT  OF  WOOD  FINISHES  287 

The  above  methods  are  for  oiled  or  varnished  furniture. 
If  the  finish  is  wax,  the  cleaning  must  be  done  with  turpen- 
tine and  the  surface  polished  with  wax.  (See  Encaustic 
No.  1.) 

To  clean  the  woodwork  of  waxed  furniture,  wet  a  woolen 
cloth  with  turpentine,  and  go  over  the  soiled  surface,  rub- 
bing briskly.     When  all  is  cleaned,  spread  the     To  clean 
softened  prepared  wax  on  a  woolen  cloth,  and    woodwork 
rub  this  on  the  surface  to  be  polished.      Let     of  waxed 

iuriiitiiTG 

it  stand  an  hour,  if  possible;  then  rub  with 
a  brush;  follow  this  by  another  rubbing  with  a  woolen 
cloth.  If  this  rubbing  is  followed  by  a  brisk  rubbing  with 
cork,  the  luster  will  be  much  finer;  but  in  any  case  the  fric- 
tion must  be  thorough  enough  to  remove  all  traces  of  the 
wax  and  leave  a  brilliant  polished  surface.  While  a  thor- 
ough polishing  of  a  surface  finished  in  oil  is  always  desirable, 
a  moderate  amount  of  friction  will  answer;  but  when  wax  is 
used,  it  is  absolutely  necessary  that  there  is  thorough  rub- 
bing with  some  woolen  substance.  For  this  reason,  unless 
one  has  a  strong  man  to  do  the  work,  it  is  better  to  use 
the  oil  and  turpentine,  oil  and  alcohol,  or  oil  and  vinegar. 
The  cork  may  be  purchased  at  a  paint-supply  Cork  for 
shop  or  at  a  chemical-supply  shop.  It  comes  in  polishing. 
sheets  or  large  disks.  Before  using  it,  make  the  surface 
smooth  with  fine  sandpaper. 


CHAPTER  XIV 

OILS:  THEIR  USE  AND  BEHAVIOR 

Lubricating  oils.    Cleaning  oils.    Oils  used  as  foods  and  medicines.    Cot- 
ton-seed oil.    Castor-oil.    Cod-liver  oil.    Spontaneous  combustion. 

Oils  are  so  continually  in  use  in  every  department  of  the 
household  that  they  are  an  important  element  in  the  domes- 
tic management.     They  enter  into  the  composi- 
ErfSflfcFe    t*on  °^  Pam^s  anc*  varnishes,  into  the  substances 
action  and    used  in  the  finishing  and  cleaning  of  woods,  met- 
appiica-     ais>  machinery,  etc.,  and  into  the  making  of  many 
essential,     of  our  foods  and  medicines.     Ignorance  of  their 
source,  action,  and  application  often  leads  to  their 
wrong  use  and  renders  them  worthless. 

As  space  is  limited,  it  will  only  be  possible  to  make  the 
briefest  mention  of  the  oils  most  commonly  used  in  and 
about  the  household. 

Oils  may  be  divided  into  three  classes— animal,  vegetable, 
and  mineral;  and  these,  from  their  characteristics,  are  again 
classified  as  fixed  and  volatile. 

The  term  "  fixed  "  may  be  defined  as  made  fast,  firm,  stable, 
not  wandering.  If  we  spill  a  few  drops  of  oil  on  a  paper, 
Definition  and  then  expose  the  stain  to  the  action  of  air  and 
^vSatile*  li&ht  for  a  few  days,  we  can  determine  whether 
oils.  the  oil  is  fixed  or  volatile.  If  it  is  a  fixed  oil  the 
stain  will  be  as  apparent  after  this  exposure  as  when  it  was 

288 


OILS:  THEIR  USE  AND  BEHAVIOR  289 

first  made;  sometimes  it  will  even  be  darker.  If,  on  the 
other  hand,  all  traces  of  the  stain  have  disappeared,  the  oil 
is  volatile;  that  is,  it  is  unstable,  and  passes  off  by  evapora- 
tion. We  can  make  this  test  more  quickly  by  placing  the 
stain  near  a  heated  surface. 

All  mineral  oils  are  volatile;  hence  we  can  use  them  for 
cleaning  and  other  purposes  where  it  is  desirable  that  all 
traces  and  odor  of  the  oil  should  disappear  quickly. 
The  mineral  oils  are  petroleum,  which  is  found        0yesra 
already  formed  in  the  earth  in  almost  every  quar- 
ter of  the  globe,  and  other  oils  obtained  by  the  distillation 
of  bituminous  bodies,  such  as  cannel-coal,  coal-tar,  etc.   We 
are  familiar  with  the  products  of  these  oils  in  the  form  of 
crude  petroleum,  kerosene,  naphtha,  gasolene,  etc. 

The  vegetable  oils  fall  naturally  into  two  classes—  the  fat 
oils  and  the  essential  oils.    Of  these  the  fat  oils  are  fixed, 
and  the  essential  oils  are  volatile.     The  essen- 
tial  oils,   of   which   there   are   many,   are    pro-     5jL2£ 
duced  in  nearly  every  part  of  the  various  plants        oils. 
except   in   the    cotyledon   of   the   seed,   where 
the  fixed  oil  is  found.     These  oils  are  obtained  from  the 
plant  by  pressure,  by  distillation,  by  solvents,  and  by  macera- 
tion.   The  most  familiar  example  we  have  of  obtaining  oil 
by  pressure  is  the  process  by  which  the  oil  is  extracted  from 
the  rinds  of  fruit.     The  thin  yellow  rind  of  lemons,  oranges, 
or  limes  is  finely  divided  and  then  subjected  to  great  pres- 
sure.    Or  the  method  used  in  the  kitchen  is  more  common 
still:  the  rind  is  scraped  off  by  the  grater,  or  a  piece  of  lump 
sugar  is  rubbed  over  the  rind.    In  any  case  the  object  is  to 
break  the  oil-ducts  and  press  out  the  essential  oil.     Most  of 
the  essence  or  oil  of  commerce  is  obtained  by  distillation. 

By  maceration  is  understood  the  process  by  which  the 
essential  oil  of  delicate  flowers  and  plants  is  obtained. 
Melted  fats  have  the  power  of  absorbing  essential  oils  from 
vegetable  substances.    The  petals  of  flowers  are  placed  in 

19 


290  HOME  ECONOMICS 

melted  fat  and  allowed  to  rest  there  until  they  have  parted 
with  their  perfume.  They  are  then  removed,  and  fresh 
ones  put  in  their  place.  This  is  continued  until  the  fat  has 
absorbed  the  required  amount  of  perfume.  In  the  kitchen 
this  principle  may  be  used  to  advantage  in  the  cooking  of 
certain  vegetables.  (See  "  Cause  of  Strong  Odors,  Flavors, 
and  Colors  in  Vegetables.") 

The  fixed  vegetable  oils  are  obtained  from  seeds  and 
fruits.    These  are   sometimes  crushed  and  pressed  cold, 
sometimes  heated  and  pressed,  and  sometimes 
n^df  ^    boiled  in  water>  to  extract  the  oil.    The  oils  pro- 
oils,        cured  in  this  way  may  be  divided  into  two  classes 

—drying  oils  and  non-drying  oils. 
Nearly  all  fixed  oils  absorb  oxygen  freely  when  exposed  to 
the  air.  The  effect  of  the  oxygen  is  to  cause  the  oils  either 
to  harden  or  to  turn  rancid.  The  oils  that  harden  are  called 
drying  oils,  and  those  that  turn  rancid  are  known  as  non- 
drying  oils.  The  drying  oils  that  the  housekeeper  has 
most  to  do  with  are  the  three  forms  of  linseed-oil— common 
linseed-oil,  cold-drawn  oil,  and  boiled  oil. 

The  common  linseed-oil  is  obtained  from  the  crushed  seeds 
heated  nearly  to  the  boiling-point  and  then  pressed.  This 
oil  is  brown  in  color. 

Cold-drawn  linseed-oil  is  obtained  by  pressing 
drawn      ^e  crusne^  seeds  without  heat.     This  oil  is  of  a 
linseed-oil.    light  color  and  is  more  expensive  than  the  com- 
mon oil. 
Boiled  linseed-oil  is  the  pressed  oil  boiled  for  an  hour  or 
more  with  powdered  litharge,  sulphate  of  zinc,  sugar  of  lead, 

......       or  some  other  substance  to  increase  the  drying 

Boiled  lin-  J     & 

seed-oil.       Power. 

In  oiling  floors  and  other  surfaces  where  it  is 
important  that  the  oil  should  dry  quickly,  the  boiled  linseed- 
oil  should  be  used.  Indeed,  the  boiled  linseed-oil  should 
always  be  used  on  the  floors  and  inside  finishes  of  the  house. 


OILS:  THEIR  USE  AND  BEHAVIOR  291 

Alcohol  dissolves  linseed-oil,  as  do  turpentine  and  kero- 
sene to  some  extent.    When  oiled  surfaces,  like  floors,  be- 
come dark  and  soiled  because  the  boards  were  not 
properly  polished  after  the  oiling,  they  may  be     Effect  of 
cleaned  with  turpentine  or  kerosene,  unless  the    linseed-oil. 
stain  is  of  long  standing,  in  which  case  alcohol 
may  be  used.     Hot  alcohol  has  a  much  greater  solvent  power 
than  the  cold.     If  the  alcohol  is  to  be  used  hot,  it  should  be 
put  in  a  bottle,  which  may  be  placed  in  a  dish  of  tepid  water. 
Heat  the  water  gradually  to  the  boiling-point.     Keep  the 
bottle  in  the  hot  water  while  applying  the  alcohol  to  the 
floor. 

Linseed-oil  being  a  fixed  oil,  and  containing  a  resinous 
substance,  particles  of  dust  are  apt  to  attach  themselves  to 
the  surface  on  which  it  has  been  used,  unless  there  has  been 
great  care  in  polishing.  By  combining  the  linseed-oil  with 
alcohol,  turpentine,  or  even  with  kerosene,  a  volatile  ele- 
ment is  added,  and  the  process  of  polishing  and  drying  is 
hastened. 

For  woodwork  that  requires  a  thorough  oiling  nothing  but 
a  little  turpentine  should  be  added;  and  for  an  outside  ex- 
posure, like  doors,  piazza  floors,  etc.,  only  the  pure  oil  should 
be  used,  and  in  this  case  the  ordinary  oil  answers  all  pur- 
poses. 

Paraffin-oil  is  a  product  of  petroleum,  or  of  the  distillation 
of  bituminous  bodies.     It  is  the  oil  that  passes  over  after 
kerosene,  and  is  a  much  heavier  oil  than  the  lat- 
ter.    This  oil  must  not  be  confounded  with  the         ^ 
solid  white  paraffin,  a  great  portion  of  which  is 
obtained  from  petroleum  and  bituminous  products.     Nor 
must  it  be  confused  with  the  English  paraffin,  which  is  the 
kerosene  manufactured  from  bituminous  bodies. 

Paraffin  is  a  pale-yellow  oil.  It  contains  little,  if  any, 
resinous  substance,  and  it  is  excellent  for  polishing  furni- 
ture or  woodwork  when  a  very  fat  oil  is  not  required.    It 


292  HOME  ECONOMICS 

may  be  used  in  the  pure  state,  or  mixed  in  any  proportion 
with  alcohol,  turpentine,  or  vinegar. 

LUBRICATING   OILS 

Some  of  the  qualities  essential  in  the  lubricating  oils  in 
use  in  the  household  are:  "(1)  Freedom  from  a  tendency  to 
E  ti  j  gum  or  oxidize;  (2)  sufficient  body  to  keep  the  sur- 
qualitiesin  faces  between  which  it  interferes  from  coming  in 
lubricating  COntact;  (3)  the  greatest  fluidity  consistent  with 
2;  (4)  absence  of  acid  and  other  properties  inju- 
rious to  materials  in  contact  with  it "  (James  Cameron). 

The  housekeeper  will  find  the  best  sewing-machine  oil 
sufficient  for  all  lubricating  purposes.     Half  a  pint  or  even 
half  a  gill  of  this  oil  will  last  a  long  time.     For 
oUwm6     lawn-mowers  and  such  heavily  working  machines 
dissolve      a  good  sewing-machine  oil  is  all  that  is  required, 
substances.    Even  when  exercising  the  greatest  care  in  pur- 
chasing a  lubricating  oil,  one   sometimes   gets 
one  that  is  adulterated  with  a  resinous  oil.     In  that  case  the 
article  oiled  "gums  up"  and  will  run  hard.     Kerosene-oil 
will  dissolve  this  gummy  substance.     Pour  it  on  the  article 
freely  (first,  of  course,  protecting  floors  and  other  near-by 
objects),  and  set  the  machinery,  door-hinges,  locks,  or  what- 
ever may  have  been  "gummed,"  in  rapid  motion.     Then 
clean  off  with  a  soft,  clean  cloth,  and  oil  with  the  machine- 
oil.     It  must  be  remembered  that  kerosene  merely  cleans; 
it  is  not  a  lubricating  oil. 

No  drying  oil,  or  intermediate  oil,  i.  e.,  half-drying  oil, 
such  as  castor-oil,  cotton-seed  oil,  etc.,  should  be  used  as  a 
lubricating  oil. 

CLEANING   OILS 

Among  the  cleaning  oils,  the  most  important  are  gasolene, 
naphtha  or  benzene,  benzole,  and  oil  or  spirits  of  turpentine. 


OILS:  THEIR  USE  AND  BEHAVIOR  293 

These  oils  are  exceedingly  volatile,  and  give  off  inflammable 
vapors.    When  using  them  for  cleaning,  the  room     Cleaning 
in  which  they  are  should  be  well  ventilated,  and    oil4?rev?" 
care  should  be  taken  not  to  bring  them  near  fire,      inflam- 
lamps,  candles,  or  any  other  light.  mable. 

Oil  or  spirits  of  turpentine  is  made  from  the  pitch-pine 
tree.  The  bark  of  the  tree  is  removed,  and  the  resinous 
liquid  is  collected  and  distilled  with  water.    What     „   , 

.  .  .  .  Must  not 

passes  over  is  oil  or  spirits  of  turpentine;  the  resi-  be  used  in 
due  remaining  in  the  retorts  is  rosin.  Oil  of  tur-  leaning  i* 
pentine,  when  fresh,  has  not  a  strong  odor,  and  is 
clear  in  color.  On  exposure  to  the  air  it  absorbs  oxygen, 
darkens,  becomes  resinous,  and  acquires  a  strong  odor.  It 
should  not  be  used  for  cleaning  fabrics  when  it  is  old,  as 
it  will  then  leave  a  stain  of  its  own. 

Turpentine  dissolves  grease,  wax,  and  tar.  It  is  useful 
in  cleaning  waxed  surfaces,  and  is  sometimes  used  in  the 
laundry  for  whitening  clothes.  It  is  valuable  for  making 
preparations  of  either  wax  or  oil,  for  polishing  wood  and 
tiles,  and  it  is  also  valuable  as  a  medicine.  It  is  one  of  the 
articles  that  it  is  wise  to  have  always  in  the  house;  it  should 
be  kept  in  a  well-corked  bottle. 

Benzene  and  naphtha.    The  substances  sold  under  these 
two  names  are  practically  the  same  thing,  although     Benzene 
benzole,  being  a  French  term  for  benzene,  is  some-    and  naph- 
times  sold  under  that  name.  a* 

Naphtha  is  a  product  of  petroleum.  It  is  the  oil  that 
passes  over  after  gasolene  and  before  kerosene.  As  it  is 
exceedingly  volatile  and  gives  off  inflammable  vapors,  the 
greatest  care  must  be  taken  in  using  it  in  the  house. 
Windows  should  be  opened,  that  the  vapors  may  pass  out  at 
once. 

If  it  is  properly  used  it  is  one  of  the  best  friends  the 
housekeeper  has.  It  dissolves  fats,  turpentine,  asphalt,  and 
rubber.    Being  volatile,  it  may  be  poured  on  clothing,  car- 


294  HOME  ECONOMICS 

pets,  furniture,  floors,  etc.,  without  fear,  for  in  a  few  hours 

every  trace  of  it  will  have  disappeared.     It  also  kills  insects 

G     .  ,        and  vermin.     But  there  is  apt  to  be  danger  in  its 

ger  in      use,  as  the  volatile  vapors,  when  mixed  with  oxy- 

UShth       £en'  are  so  mflammaDle- 
owing  to  its       With  windows  open,  however,  and  an  entire  ab- 
inflamma-    sence  0f  fire  or  Hgfo  0f  any  kind,  there  is  no  danger, 
^ies!*  "     and  the  housekeeper  may  clean  her  fabrics,  pack 
away  her  furs,  flannels,  rugs,  etc.,  with  perfect 
win  exter-    ease  and  safety  by  the  aid  of  this  agent,  provided 
minate      syie  superintends  the  work,  or  does  it  herself,  and 
takes  the  precautions  here  outlined.     After  naph- 
tha has  been  used  in  a  room,  the  windows  of  that  room  should 
be  left  open  for  several  hours,  or,  better,  they  should  remain 
open  all  day.     If  one  finds  that  some  room  or  bed  in  the 
house  has  become  infested  with  bugs,  two  thorough  applica- 
tions of  naphtha  will  exterminate  them. 

Articles  that  have  been  cleaned  with  naphtha  should  be 
aired  for  some  time  before  they  are  brought  near  a  lamp  or 
fire. 

Benzole,  or  benzene,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  is  one  of 
the  products  of  coal-gas  manufacture.     It  is  made  from 
coal-tar,  and  acts  very  much  like  naphtha.     It 
product  of    evaPorates  a  little  more  rapidly,  perhaps,  and  thus 
coal-gas.     is  less  likely  to  leave  a  trace  of  its  use  on  delicate 
fabrics. 
Gasolene  is  a  product  of  petroleum.     It  is  a  more  volatile 
ri\  than  naphtha.     When  petroleum  is  being  purified,  gaso- 
lene passes  over  at  a  lower  temperature  than 
be  oxer-     naphtha.     It  is  an  excellent  agent  for  cleaning; 
cisedin      the  most  delicate  fabrics  may  be   soaked   and 
us0ifnfas"    washed  in  it.     However,  the  same  precautions 
that  must  be  taken  in  using  naphtha  are  re- 
quired in  using  gasolene.     Gasolene-stoves  should  not  be 
filled,  moved,  or  jarred  violently  while  lighted. 


OILS:  THEIR   USE  AND  BEHAVIOR  295 


OILS   USED   AS   FOODS  AND   MEDICINES 

The  oils  used  as  foods  and  medicines  belong  to  the  non- 
drying  or  intermediate  class  of  oils.  The  non-drying  oils 
absorb  oxygen,  as  do  the  drying  oils;  but  the  ef-  Effectof 
feet  of  the  oxygen  is  to  cause  them  to  grow  ran-  oxygen  on 
cid;  therefore,  in  keeping  them,  they  should  be  non-drying 
protected  from  the  air. 

Olive-oil,  also  known  as  sweet-oil  or  salad-oil,  is  made  from 
the  unripe  fruit  of  the  olive-tree.  There  are  several  grades  of 
this  oil,  the  finest  being  the  virgin  oil.  In  making  01i  u 
this  oil  the  fruit  is  torn,  not  crushed,  and  very  little, 
if  any,  pressure  is  used.  This  process  gives  an  oil  of  the  finest 
and  most  delicate  flavor.  By  this  means  only  a  small  portion 
of  the  oil  is  extracted  from  the  fruit.  The  second  grade  of 
oil  is  made  by  pressing  the  cold  pulp  of  the  fruit  from  which 
the  virgin  oil  has  been  extracted,  in  bags  or  baskets  made 
from  some  inodorous  material.  The  third  grade  is  made 
from  the  pressed  pulp,  which  is  mixed  with  cold  water  and 
pressed  again.  This  pulp  is  treated  with  water  once  more, 
heated,  and  pressed. 

Another  method  is  to  subject  the  pressed  fruit  to  a  gen- 
tle heat  after  the  virgin  oil  has  been  extracted,  and  to  press 
the  oil  out.  Still  another  method  is  to  mix  the  crushed 
fruit  with  boiling  water  and  then  press.  Sometimes  the 
crushed  fruit  is  allowed  to  ferment  before  the  pressing,  or 
the  fermented  fruit  is  boiled  in  water  and  the  fat  skimmed 
off.  Finally  the  different  waters  from  which  the  oil  has 
been  skimmed  are  allowed  to  stand,  and  the  particles  of  oil 
that  collect  on  them  are  skimmed  off.  This  last  is  the  poor- 
est of  all  the  oils,  and  is  known  as  the  oil  of  the  infernal 
regions.  It  is  used  for  oiling  stone  and  tiled  floors,  and  in 
making  soap. 

Much  of  the  olive-oil  sold  at  the  present  day  is  adulterated 


296  HOME  ECONOMICS 

with  other  oils,  such  as  cotton-seed  oil,  lard-oil,  nut-oil, 
poppy-oil,  etc.     Pure  olive-oil  has  a  slightly  greenish-yellow 

tinge,  little  odor,  and  does  not  become  rancid 

Adulter*.    easjiv      When  chilled  to  the  freezing-point  it 

color.       begins  to  congeal  m  a  granular  mass.     It  may 

be  heated  to  600°  F.  without  burning,  and  it 
is  one  of  the  pleasantest  and  most  healthful  of  all  the  oils 
used  as  foods.  Olive-oil  should  be  kept  well  corked  in  a 
cool,  dark  place.  The  cork,  on  being  removed  from  a  bottle 
of  fresh  oil,  should  be  washed,  and  the  inside  of  the  neck  of 
the  bottle  wiped  with  a  clean  cloth.     Sometimes  the  cork  is 

dipped  into  an  inferior  oil  to  make  it  slip  into  the 

Cahforma    k0ttle  with  ease;  hence  the  necessity  of  cleaning 

good  oil.     the  neck  and  cork,  that  the  oil  in  the  bottle  may 

not  be  contaminated.  Formerly  we  depended 
upon  Italy  and  France  for  our  supply  of  oil,  but  now  we  get 
a  good  article  from  California. 


COTTON-SEED   OIL 

This  oil  is  made  from  the  decorticated  seeds  of  the  cot- 
ton-plant. In  its  present  commercial  form  it  is  of  compara- 
tively recent  date. 

The  refined  oil  is  of  a  pale-yellow  tone;  it  has  a  very  slight 
odor  and  a  nutty  flavor.  It  solidifies  at  about  the  freez- 
Character-  mg~Pom^»  Cotton-seed  oil  belongs  to  the  class 
isticsof  that  stands  between  the  drying  and  non-drying 
cotton-seed  0jis>  ^  its  best  and  purest  it  is  often  employed 
as  a  substitute  for  olive-oil.  It  has  not  the  fine, 
delicate  flavor  or  texture  of  olive-oil,  and  can  never  replace 
it  in  the  more  delicate  cookery;  but  it  is  a  pure,  healthful 
vegetable  oil,  and  one  which  will  grow  in  favor  as  a  food 
adjunct. 

This  oil  is  combined  with  beef  suet  and  other  suets,  and 
sold  under  various  names.    The  initial  syllable  of  the  names 


OILS:  THEIR  USE  AND  BEHAVIOR  297 

of  these  compounds  usually  indicates  that  the  cotton-seed 
oil  is  one  of  the  ingredients.    The  addition  of  these  suets 
gives  a  certain  amount  of  solidity  to  the  com-     Q    .    „ 
pound,   making  it  possible  to  use   it   for  pur-      added  to 
poses  for  which   the   liquid   oil  would  be  im-      5«52 
practicable. 

When  the  oil  itself,  or  one  of  its  compounds,  is  used  for 
frying,  the  odor  remains  in  the  room  more  persistently  than 
that  of  any  ordinary  frying-mixture.  No  doubt  the  manu- 
facturers of  the  oil  will  overcome  this,  as  they  have  many 
other  defects. 

The  oil  should  be  kept  closed  from  the  air  and  in  a  cool 
place. 

CASTOR-OIL 

This  oil  belongs  to  the  class  of  drying  oils.  When  pure 
it  is  thick,  clear,  and  of  a  pale-yellow  color.  When  old  or  of 
inferior  quality  it  is  a  greenish  brown.  Exposure  to  the  air 
and  light  turns  it  dark  and  rancid.  It  is  one  of  the  safest 
and  least  irritating  laxatives  employed  in  the  practice  of 
medicine.  Physicians  are  coming  back  to  a  more  general 
use  of  it  than  has  been  the  custom  for  a  number  of  years. 

A  dose  of  castor-oil  is  a  nauseating  one,  unless  thoroughly 
disguised.  There  are  several  methods  of  doing  this.  Some 
liquid  with  a  pronounced  flavor  is  poured  into  a  . 

glass,  the  amount  of  castor-oil  necessary  for  the      methods 
dose  is  poured  on  this,  then  the  oil  is  covered  with       used  in 
another  layer  of  the  liquid,  so  that  the  patient      tSeoK!* 
takes  the  masked  oil  without  tasting  it.    Lemon- 
juice,  strong  coffee,  brandy,  whisky,  etc.,  are  some  of  the 
agents  used  for  this  purpose. 

COD-LIVER   OIL 

This  oil  is  obtained  from  the  liver  of  the  cod.  The  best 
quality  for  medicinal  purposes  is  manufactured  with  great 


298  HOME  ECONOMICS 

care.  The  livers  are  taken  from  the  fresh  cod,  those  that 
are  not  perfectly  healthy  being  discarded,  and  the  selected 
Method  of    ^vers  are  freed  ^rom  membrane  and  thoroughly 

obtaining     washed.    They  are  then  chopped  fine  and  put  into 

cod-liver  a  vessei  which  is  surrounded  with  a  steam-jacket, 
and  they  are  subjected  to  a  heat  of  about  100°. 
The  oil  is  drawn  off  and  filtered,  after  which  it  is  ready 
to  be  packed  into  air-tight  vessels.  Cod-liver  oil  is  sweet 
and  of  a  bright  amber  color.  This  bright  amber  color 
should  be  the  test  in  purchasing  the  oil  for  medicinal 
purposes. 

Cod-liver  oil  is  a  most  valuable  food  adjunct  in  pulmonary 
diseases,  or  in  any  condition  of  the  body  in  which  fat  is  not 
properly  assimilated.  It  is  often  readily  digested  when 
the  amount  of  other  foods  necessary  to  nourish  the  body 
cannot  be  taken. 

Nourish-         ^s  en?ec*  *s  ^°  nourish  the  tissues  of  the  body, 
ing  effect  of   thus  giving  strength ;  and  in  cases  of  consumption 

cod-liver     jj.  checks  the  exudations  of  tubercular  matter,  and 
also  diminishes  the  cough  and  perspiration. 
This  oil  should  be  kept  excluded  from  the  air. 


SPONTANEOUS   COMBUSTION 

"Some  of  the  fixed  oils,  especially  linseed-oil,  rape-seed 
oil,  and  olive-oil,  when  absorbed  by  porous  substances  and 
freely  exposed  to  the  atmosphere,  unite  with  oxygen  so 
rapidly  as  to  generate  a  considerable  degree  of  heat.  Hence 
paper,  tow,  cotton-waste,  wool,  shoddy,  hemp,  straw,  shav- 
ings, etc.,  if  slightly  soaked  with  such  oils  and  left  in  a  heap, 
inflame  spontaneously. 

"  Spontaneous  combustion  ensues  when  a  handful  of  cot- 
ton-waste is  imbued  with  oil  and  placed  in  an  air-bath  at  a 
temperature  of  130°  F.  to  200°  F.  Boiled  linseed-oil  re- 
quires an  hour  and  a  quarter,  raw  linseed-oil  four  hours, 


OILS:  THEIR  USE  AND  BEHAVIOR  299 

lard-oil  four  hours,  refined  rape-seed  oil  about  nine  hours,  to 
inflame. 

"  Gellatly  found  that  an  admixture  of  twenty  per  cent,  of 
mineral  oil  retards  combustion,  and  fifty  per  cent,  prevents 
it  completely."  ("Oils  and  Varnishes,"  by  James  Cameron; 
London,  J.  &  A.  ChurchilD 


CHAPTER  XV 

STAINS 

Stains  on  fabrics.    Stains  on  wood. 

STAINS  ON  FABRICS 

Stains  of  all  kinds  are  of  constant  occurrence  in  the 

household.    There  are  many  simple  remedies  for  removing 

most  of  them.     The  simplest  methods  should  al- 

Aiways      wayS  ^e  tried  first.     Remember  that  the  chemical 

the  simple    which  removes  the  stain  will  generally  attack  the 

remedies     fabric,  and  therefore  should  be  resorted  to  only 

ing  stains,    when  harmless  remedies  have  failed.     Nearly  all 

stains  are  easily  removed  when  first  made;  after 

they  have  dried  in  the  fabric,  or,  worse  still,  if  they  have 

been  washed  with  soap,  the  stain  is  fixed  and  is  difficult  to 

remove. 

Water  is  one  of  the  very  best  agents  for  removing  stains 
when  they  are  first  made,  and  it  has  this  advantage:  it  does 
not  injure  the  material. 

Chemicals  are  very  valuable  when  used  properly;  but  it 
must  be  remembered,  when  using  them,  that  the  moment 
Value  of  ^ev  have  done  their  work  in  removing  the  stain 
chemicals  they  should  be  removed  by  rinsing  in  abundance 
lf  uTed6^  °^  co^  wa*er»  this  followed  by  a  neutralizing 
agent,  which  should  also  be  followed  by  a  thor- 
ough rinsing.  If  an  alkali,  such  as  caustic  soda,  caustic 
potash,  or  lime,  is  used,  the  neutralizer  may  be  a  few  drops 

300 


STAINS  301 

of  acetic  acid  in  a  pint  of  water;  or,  failing  in  that,  any  acid, 
like  vinegar  or  lemon-juice,  may  be  employed,  in  which  case 
teaspoonfuls  will  be  required  to  take  the  place  of  the  drops 
of  the  acetic  acid;  that  is  to  say,  five  or  six  teaspoonfuls  of 
vinegar  or  lemon-juice  will  be  required  to  replace  one  of 
acetic  acid. 

In  cases  where  acids  have  been  employed  to  remove  stains, 
neutralize  with  a  solution  of  ammonia— about  a  tablespoonful 
of  household  ammonia  to  a  pint  of  water. 

If  one  knows  the  nature  of  the  stain,  the  work  of  remov- 
ing it  may  be  undertaken  more  intelligently  and  with  better 
success  than  if  working  in  the  dark.  The  agent  0ne  mugt 
that  will  generally  remove  grease-spots— warm    know  the 

water  and  soap— will  often  fix  fruit  and  other   ^atur?0/ 
r  the  stain  to 

Stains.  remove  it 

Cold,  tepid,  or  hot  water  may  be  used  on  most      ^j688" 
stains,  and  although  it  will  not  always  remove 
them,  still  it  will  rarely  fix  them.     Blood  stains,  however, 
are  fixed  by  hot  water,  and  softened  and  partially  removed 
by  cold  or  tepid  water. 

Sometimes  the  agent  that  of  itself  makes  a  stain  is  useful 
in  loosening  or  changing  the  character  of  another  stain,  as, 
for  example,  the  wetting  of  a  black-ink  stain  with  red  ink, 
or  when  lard  is  rubbed  on  the  black  stain  that  sometimes 
gets  on  articles  made  on  a  sewing-machine. 

When  an  article  becomes  stained,  the  first  care  is  to  learn 
the  nature  of  the  stain;  then  the  remedies  may  be  applied. 

Ink  Stains.— Nearly  all  ink  stains  may  be  removed  if 
treated  at  once;  but  even  then  there  is  a  great  difference  in 
the  readiness  with  which  the  various  preparations  of  ink 
yield  to  prompt  and  careful  treatment.  For  example,  a 
stain  from  some  stylographic  ink  may  be  removed  by  thor- 
ough washing  with  soap  and  water,  while  in  the  case  of 
others  the  stain  must  be  soaked  in  milk  or  some  other  sub- 
stance for  a  long  time,  even  after  it  has  had  a  thorough 


302  HOME   ECONOMICS 

washing  in  water.  The  stains  from  some  makes  of  ink  yield! 
only  to  a  chemical,  and  even  the  strongest  chemicals  are; 
sometimes  powerless. 

Cold  or  tepid  water  never  fixes  a  stain;  neither  does  milk; 
therefore  these  are  always  safe  to  use  in  removing  the 
greater  part  of  the  ink.  If  it  is  necessary  to  use  other  agents 
after  this,  the  work  will  be  more  rapid,  and  there  will  be 
less  danger  to  the  fabric  than  if  the  chemical  were  required 
to  remove  all  the  ink. 

When  ink  is  spilled,  if  it  is  an  article  that  may  be  put 
into  a  basin  of  water,  do  this  immediately,  rinsing  the  stain 
in  repeated  waters  until  no  more  ink  can  be  re- 
°inkbyVe    moved  in  that  way;  then  soak  in  hot  or  cold  milk, 
soaking  in    sweet  or  sour.     This  treatment  may  remove  the 
TmSk.°r     s*ain  at  once,  or  it  may  require  several  days'  soak- 
ing in  the  milk.     In  some  cases,  however,  there 
will  remain  a  distinct  dark  stain,  which  may  be  removed  by 
soaking  a  few  minutes  in  Javelle  water  or  in  a  weak  solu- 
tion of  chloride  of  lime,  or  acids  may  be  employed  to  remove 
the  stain. 

Should  the  ink  be  spilled  on  a  garment,  carpet,  floor, 
table,  or  other  article  that  cannot  be  washed  and  soaked  in 
How  to  re-    ^n*s  manner>  cover  the  stain  at  once  with  some 
move  ink-    absorbent,    like    starch,    flour,    meal,    shredded 
absorption    blotting-paper,  etc.     These  substances  will  ab- 
sorb the  superfluous  ink   and   prevent  it  from 
spreading  over  a  larger  surface.     After  a  few  minutes  re- 
move the  first  application  of  absorbent,  and  cover  the  spot 
Usinea     w*tn  ^res^  material.     Continue  to  do  this  until 
lemon  to     the   substance    applied   is   no   longer  soiled  by 
's^tsT      ^ne  ink.     If  you  have  a  lemon  at  hand,  cut  off 
one   end   and   take   off  about   an   inch   of   the 
peel,  going  over  the  stained  surface  with  the  cut  end  of  the 
lemon,  rubbing  gently.    When  the  lemon  becomes  soiled, 


STAINS  303 

cut  it  off,  and  go  over  the  stain  as  before;  continue  this, 
paring  the  lemon  a  little  at  a  time,  and  trimming  off  the 
end  as  it  becomes  soiled.  If  this  has  removed  all  the  ink, 
rinse  the  spot  with  cold  or  tepid  water,  using  a  sponge  or 
soft  cloth. 

Should  there  be  no  color  to  injure  in  the  stained  article, 
the  surface  may  be  sprinkled  with  common  salt  before  each 
application  of  the  lemon. 

The  foregoing  method  is  for  fresh  stains.  Any  of  the  fol- 
lowing methods  may  be  employed  for  old  stains. 

1.  Lemon- Juice  and  Salt.— Spread  common  salt  on  the 
stain,  and  wet  with  lemon-juice;  place  in  the  sun.  Repeat 
every  day  until  the  stain  disappears,  rinsing  the  spot  in  clean 
water  before  each  new  application  of  salt  and  lemon.  When 
the  stain  is  removed,  wash  the  fabric,  and  rinse  thoroughly. 

2.  Oxalic  Acid.— With  a  sponge  or  piece  of  soft  cloth,  rub 
the  stain  gently  with  a  strong  solution  of  oxalic  acid.  When 
the  stain  disappears,  rinse  thoroughly,  and  neutralize  with 
weak  ammonia  water.  Or  wet  the  finger  in  water,  dip  it  in 
powdered  oxalic  acid,  and  rub  gently  on  the  stained  spot;  con- 
tinue this  until  the  stain  disappears.  If  heat  can  be  applied, 
the  stain  will  disappear  more  quickly.     Wash  and  neutralize. 

3.  Oxalic  Acid  and  Cream  of  Tartar.— Mix  together  one 
teaspoonful  of  powdered  oxalic  acid  and  one  of  cream  of 
tartar.  Spread  a  little  of  the  powder  on  the  stain,  and 
moisten  with  lemon-juice  or  water;  rub  gently  with  the  fin- 
ger; repeat  until  the  stain  is  removed.  Do  this  with  heat, 
if  possible.     Wash  and  neutralize. 

In  the  three  foregoing  methods  the  work  is  hastened  if 
the  material  worked  upon  is  warm.  If  the  spot  How  to  ap- 
is not  large,  the  heat  can  be  applied  in  this  man-  plySmjdion 
ner:  put  a  plate  over  a  kettle  of  hot  water,  and  spots,  also 
spread  the  stained  part  of  the  article  on  this;  then  °o°  JJ^* 
work  as  directed.    Use  water  or  lemon-juice  hot.        ture. 


304  HOME  ECONOMICS 

If  the  stain  is  on  a  carpet,  floor,  or  piece  of  furniture, 
first  make  the  spot  warm  by  placing  a  warm  iron  or  any 
other  warm  substance  on  it;  then  fill  a  flat-bottomed  earthen 
or  china  basin  with  boiling  water;  wet  the  stained  spot  with 
the  mixture  to  be  used,  then  place  the  hot  basin  over  it.  In 
about  two  minutes  remove  the  basin,  and  rub  the  spot  with 
fresh  mixture;  cover  again  with  the  hot  dish.  Follow  this 
until  the  stain  disappears. 

It  must  be  remembered  that  oxalic  acid  is  a  poison,  and 
should  be  so  marked,  whether  it  is  in  the  liquid  or  the  pow- 
dered state. 

With  Red  Ink.— Wet  the  ink  stain  with  red  ink,  and  wash 
in  clear  water,  then  in  soap  and  water.  This  method  will 
remove  some  ink  stains,  but  not  all. 

With  Muriatic  Acid.— Wet  the  stain,  and  spread  it  over  a 
bowl  of  boiling-hot  water.  Rub  the  spot  gently  with  a  glass 
stopper  wet  with  the  acid,  then  plunge  the  spot  in  the  hot 
water.  It  may  be  necessary  to  repeat  this  several  times. 
Rinse  the  article  in  ammonia  water,  and  then  in  several  clear 
waters. 

With  Javelle  Water.— Cover  the  stain  with  Javelle  water, 
and  let  it  soak  until  the  stain  disappears.  Sometimes  this 
will  be  in  a  few  minutes,  and  again  it  may  take  a  long  time. 
There  are  but  few  stains  that  resist  this  treatment.  Rinse 
in  ammonia  water  and  in  clear  water. 

With  Turpentine.— Soak  the  stain  in  turpentine  and  then 
rub  gently.  This  may  be  used  on  colored  fabrics.  The 
acids  and  other  strong  chemicals  should  not  be  used  on 
colored  articles. 

Sun  and  air       Sometimes  the  sun  and  air  will  complete  what 
will  often    the  agents  used  have  only  begun,  and  a  stain  that 
teriaUy.      seemed  to  be  fixed  indelibly  often  disappears  when 
hung  in  the  open  air. 

Ink  stains  on  painted  or  varnished  surfaces  may  generally 
be  removed  by  encaustic  No.  2.    When  the  wood  is  unfin- 


STAINS  305 

ished  the  stain  sinks  into  the  fibers,  and  must  be  removed 
with  a  strong  solution  of  oxalic  acid.  When  the  stain  is 
obstinate,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar  to  a  gill  of 
the  oxalic-acid  solution. 

Blood  Stains.— When  the  article  stained  is  one  that  may 
be  washed  with  soap  and  water  there  is  no  difficulty  in  re- 
moving blood  stains.  Soak  the  article  in  cold  or  tepid 
water;  wash  from  this  water,  and  then  wash  in  warm  water, 
using  plenty  of  soap.  A  white  fabric  may  be  boiled.  If  the 
stain  is  on  a  fabric  or  surface  that  cannot  be  washed,  cover 
with  wet  starch.  When  the  starch  dries,  rub  it  off,  and  re- 
peat the  dose  of  wet  starch;  continue  this  until  the  stain 
disappears. 

Green  Stains,  from  grass  or  other  vegetable  substances, 
may  be  removed  with  alcohol  or  kerosene.  Wash  the  stain 
in  kerosene  (it  will  turn  yellow),  then  wash  with  soap  and 
water,  and  the  stain  will  disappear;  or  wash  in  alcohol. 

Soot  Stains.— These  stains  must  always  be  treated  with  a 
dry  solution  if  the  stain  is  on  a  carpet  or  other  fabric.  Rub 
the  spot  with  any  of  the  following  materials  (continue  re- 
moving the  soiled  material  and  add  fresh  until  the  stain 
has  disappeared) :  starch,  flour,  corn-meal,  fullers'  earth,  and 
salt. 

When  the  stain  is  on  marble  or  wood,  remove  the  greater 
part  of  it  with  dry  materials,  and  then  wash  with  soap  and 
hot  water. 

Running  Colors.— When  an  article  has  been  stained  by 
coming  in  contact  with  a  colored  fabric  that  has  been  wet 
with  water,  as  a  rule  the  stain  may  be  soaked  out.  As  soon 
as  possible  after  discovering  the  accident,  put  the  article  to 
soak  in  plenty  of  cold  water;  at  the  end  of  ten  or  twelve 
hours  wash  it  out  of  this  water,  and  dry  in  the  sun. 

Iodine  Stains.— Wash  the  stain  with  alcohol,  then  rinse  in 

clear  water,  if  the  material  may  be  washed. 

Vaseline  Stains.— The  stains  from  vaseline  are  most  diffi- 
20 


306  HOME  ECONOMICS 

cult  to  remove.  Ether  seems  to  be  the  only  liquid  that  will 
dissolve  vaseline.  Sponge  the  stain  with  it.  This  is  too 
expensive  an  agent  to  use  in  large  quantities. 

Iron  Rust  may  be  removed  by  muriatic  acid,  oxalic  acid,  or 
lemon  and  salt.  Have  a  bowl  of  boiling  water.  Spread  the 
stained  place  over  this;  touch  with  the  muriatic  or  oxalic 
acid,  and  when  the  stain  changes  to  a  bright  yellow  dip  it  in 
the  water.  Rinse  the  fabric  in  ammonia  water  and  then 
in  clear  water.  The  salt  and  lemon-juice  may  be  applied  in 
this  manner  or  on  a  hot  plate,  or  the  wet  stain  may  be  put 
in  the  sun.  Being  a  weaker  agent  than  the  muriatic  or 
oxalic  acid,  the  lemon  and  salt  take  a  longer  time  to  re- 
move the  rust.  To  remove  rust  from  iron  or  steel,  wet  the 
stain  with  sweet-oil,  then  cover  with  powdered  quicklime. 
In  a  day  or  two  rub  off  the  mixture.  If  all  the  rust  has  not 
disappeared,  repeat  the  application  of  oil  and  lime,  then  clean 
with  oil  and  rottenstone,  if  the  articles  happen  to  be  of 
steel;  if  common  utensils,  wash  in  strong  soda-water,  rinse 
with  soap-suds,  and  wipe  very  dry. 

Fruit  Stains.— Spread  the  stained  article  over  a  large 
bowl,  and  pour  boiling  water  through  it  until  the  stain  dis- 
appears; or  soak  the  stain  for  a  short  time  in  Javelle  water. 
Another  method  is  to  soak  the  article  in  a  weak  solution  of 
oxalic  acid.  The  last  two  methods  are  to  be  employed  only 
when  the  boiling  water  has  failed,  which  it  rarely  does  if 
used  at  once,  except  in  the  case  of  peaches,  which  make  a 
stain  very  difficult  to  remove.  Fruit  stains  may  be  removed 
with  the  fumes  of  sulphur.  Wet  the  stain.  Make  a  small 
funnel  of  stiff  paper,  and  cut  a  piece  from  the  small  end ;  then 
place  a  bit  of  sulphur  in  a  saucer,  and  set  it  on  fire,  cover- 
ing it  with  the  funnel.  Hold  the  wet  stain  over  the  small 
opening,  and  when  clean  rinse  thoroughly.  The  work  must 
be  done  by  an  open  window,  and  the  operator  must  be  care- 
ful not  to  inhale  the  fumes.  When  you  have  finished,  ex- 
tinguish the  burning  sulphur  by  covering  it  with  a  piece  of 


STAINS  307 

wet  paper.  A  small  stain  may  be  removed  by  burning  a 
sulphur  match  under  the  wet  spot. 

Wine  Stains.— Cover  the  spot  with  salt,  and  at  the  first 
opportunity  pour  boiling  water  through  it.  Should  the  stains 
have  become  fixed  from  having  been  washed  with  soap,  use 
any  of  the  methods  given  for  fruit  stains. 

Tea  and  Coffee  Stains.— Treat  these  the  same  as  fruit 
stains. 

Chocolate  and  Cocoa  Stains.— Wash  with  soap  and  tepid 
water. 

Paint  and  Varnish.— Alcohol  and  turpentine  dissolve  these 
two  stains.  Use  turpentine  on  coarse  fabrics,  and  alcohol 
on  delicate  ones.  If  there  is  a  suggestion  of  a  stain  after 
the  paint  or  varnish  is  removed,  sponge  the  spot  with  chlo- 
roform or  ether. 

Grease-Spots.— When  an  article  is  washable,  grease-spots 
may  be  removed  with  soap  and  water.  Grease-spots  may 
generally  be  removed  by  the  application  of  a  substance  that 
has  an  affinity  for  grease.  The  simplest  of  all  methods  for 
removing  grease  is  by  absorption.  Powdered  French  chalk 
or  fullers'  earth,  mixed  to  a  paste  with  water  or  turpentine, 
and  spread  on  the  grease-spot,  will  absorb  it.  This  should 
be  allowed  to  stand  for  several  days,  and  the  application 
then  brushed  off.  Sometimes  a  second  application  of  the 
paste  may  be  necessary.  For  dark  materials  ox-gall  is 
sometimes  used  with  the  turpentine  and  fullers'  earth.  If 
the  ox-gall  is  decolorized,  it  may  be  used  on  light  materials. 

Blotting-paper  may  be  put  under  and  over  the  grease-spots; 
a  warm  iron  should  be  placed  on  the  top  sheet  of  paper; 
change  the  paper  until  all  the  grease  has  been  absorbed. 
The  spot  may  then  be  lightly  sponged  with  chloroform  or 
ether. 

Candle-grease  should  always  be  scraped  from  the  surface 
of  the  article  before  an  absorbent  or  other  agent  is  used. 

When  the  fabric  is  very  delicate,  as,  for  example,  light 


308  HOME  ECONOMICS 

silks  or  cloth,  try  dry  French  chalk.     Spread  it  on  the  stain, 

cover  with  blotting-paper,  and  if  time  will  not  permit  its 

standing  for  twenty-four  hours  or  more,  use  a 

fo?dlu°cite    warm  iron* 
fabrics.  Ether,  benzene,  naphtha,  chloroform,  turpen- 

tine, and  alcohol  all  dissolve  grease.  Only  the 
most  volatile  agents  should  be  used  on  delicate  colors;  chlo- 
roform, ether,  benzene,  naphtha,  and  alcohol  are,  in  the  or- 
der given,  the  most  volatile.  Alcohol  is  more  liable  to  affect 
the  color  than  are  the  other  agents. 

It  must  be  remembered  that  these  liquids  dissolve  the 
grease,  and  that  the  operator  must  remove  it  by  sponging 
the  spot  gently.    Well-washed  cheese-cloth  is  one  of  the 
best  fabrics  to  rub  with,  as  it  does  not  leave  lint,  and  is  so 
cheap  that  one  may  use  a  clean  piece  with  every  application. 
When  cleaning  with  any  of  the  dissolving  agents  it  is  im- 
portant that  the  diluted  grease  does  not  spread  over  a  larger 
surface  than  the  original  spot.     Spread  the  fab- 
wevent     r*c>  anc*  P^ace  a  P^ce  of  blotting-paper  under  the 
the  grease    stain.     Spread  a  ring  of  French  chalk  or  fullers' 
spreading    ear^h  around  the  grease-spot ;  then  wet  a  cloth  with 
fabric.      the  cleaner,  and  rub  gently  toward  the  center  of 
the  spot.    Work  in  this  manner,  changing  the 
cleaning-cloth  frequently,  until  the  spot  has  disappeared. 
Rub  gently  with  a  dry  cloth  until  the  spot  is  perfectly  dry. 
If  any  of  the  less  volatile  agents  have  been  used,  and  there 
is  a  slight  ring  around  the  cleaned  spot,  sponge  gently  with 
chloroform. 

Acid  Stains.— When  any  common  acid,  such  as  lemon- juice, 
vinegar,  muriatic  acid,  etc.,  is  spilled  on  a  colored  fabric,  it 
often  changes  the  color.  If  the  spot  is  lightly  sponged  with 
a  dilute  solution  of  ammonia,— one  tablespoonful  of  house- 
hold ammonia  to  four  of  cold  water,— the  color  will  be  re- 
stored. The  work  must  be  done  carefully,  only  touching  the 
changed  spot  with  the  ammonia  preparation. 


STAINS  309 

Alkali  Stains.— Stains  made  with  the  ordinary  alkalis 
should  be  sponged  lightly  with  a  diluted  acid,  vinegar,  acetic, 
or  muriatic.  Let  the  preparation  be  very  weak,  and  sponge 
the  spot  lightly. 

White  boards,  matting,  etc.,  spot  a  reddish  brown  when 
liquid  potash  is  spilled  on  them.  Wash  such  spots  with 
dilute  muriatic  acid,  one  tablespoonful  of  the  acid  to  two  of 
water;  then  sponge  with  clear  water. 

Caution.— When  mixing  muriatic  or  sulphuric  acid  with 
water,  always  add  the  acid  to  the  water  a  little  at  a  time. 
Great  heat  is  generated  by  the  combination  of  the  water 
and  acid. 

Pitch,  Tar,  Wheel-Grease  Stains.— Spread  lard  on  such 
stains  to  soften  them;  then  wet  with  turpentine.  With  a 
knife  gently  scrape  off  all  the  loose  dirt.  Wet  again  with 
turpentine  and  remove  the  dirt  with  the  knife.  Continue  this 
until  all  the  loose  dirt  has  been  removed;  then  sponge  with 
turpentine,  and  rub  gently  until  dry.  If  the  colors  are 
light,  finish  by  sponging  with  chloroform. 

Mildew.— The  removal  of  this  kind  of  stain  is  more  or 
less  difficult,  depending  upon  the  thoroughness  with  which 
the  fabric  has  been  affected  by  the  mildew.  Light  and 
recent  stains  may  often  be  removed  by  wetting  them,  rub- 
bing on  soap,  and  then  covering  the  spots  with  wet  starch. 
Spread  the  article  in  the  sun,  and  renew  the  application  of 
starch  and  soap  frequently. 

Chloride  of  lime  and  Javelle  water  are  both  effective  agents 
for  the  removal  of  mildew.  In  light  cases  the  stain  may 
disappear  in  less  than  half  an  hour,  but  where  the  stain  is 
of  long  standing  it  may  take  twelve  or  more  hours.  Soak 
the  article  in  Javelle  water  or  a  solution  of  chloride  of  lime 
until  the  stain  disappears;  then  rinse  thoroughly  in  several 
waters.  (See  "Javelle  Water"  and  "Chloride  of  Lime.") 
This  treatment  is  only  for  white  fabrics. 

Scorched  Stains.— Wet  the  scorched  place,  and  rub  soap 


310  HOME  ECONOMICS 

on  it.  Spread  in  the  sun.  Cover  the  spot  with  a  thin  mix- 
ture of  starch  and  water.  It  may  require  several  applica- 
tions of  the  soap  and  water  and  starch. 

STAINS    ON   WOOD 

Wood,  finished  and  unfinished,  is  easily  stained  by  various 
substances.  In  the  unfinished  wood  the  staining  substance 
sinks  into  the  pores  and  is  difficult  to  remove;  but,  on  the 
other  hand,  chemicals  and  other  substances  may  be  used 
with  greater  freedom  and  safety  on  unfinished  surfaces  than 
on  varnished  and  painted  woods,  marbles,  etc. 

Alcohol  dissolves  the  gums  from  which  varnishes  are  made. 

Therefore,  if  alcohol,  or  any  substance  of  which  alcohol  forms 

a  large  part,  as  perfumery,  sweet  spirits  of  niter, 

ttains*  e*c->  *s  spiled  on  a  varnished  surface,  the  varnish  at 
once  begins  to  soften.  The  purer  the  alcohol,  the 
more  rapidly  it  dissolves  the  gum.  If  one  attempts  to  wipe  the 
spot  after  the  softening  has  begun,  the  varnish  comes  off  on 
the  cloth.  Instead  of  wiping  off  the  alcohol,  neutralize  it 
by  pouring  on  some  oil.  Any  kind  will  do,  but  sweet-oil, 
paraffin-oil,  or  linseed-oil  is  to  be  preferred. 

A  surface  that  has  been  stained  white  with  alcohol,  or 
any  alcoholic  substance,  may  often  be  restored  to  its  former 
To  remove    co^or  anc^  polish  by  rubbing  it  with  kerosene,  with 

white       oil  and  turpentine,  or  with  oil  and  alcohol.    If  the 

8tawood°m   stain  *s  very  ^eep'  use  oil  an(*  rottenstone  or  tne 
Furniture  Cleaner  and  Polisher  (see  recipe). 

When  the  surface  has  been  made  rough  as  well  as  stained, 

rub  it  gently  with  the  finest  emery-paper,  dust,  oil,  and  then 

To  remove    polish  with  rottenstone  and  oil. 

anTstalns'        Stains  made  by  heat  may,  if  they  are  not  deep 

made  by     and  are  of  short  standing,  be  removed  by  rubbing 

heat*  them  with  hot  milk.  Kerosene,  or  any  of  the 
methods  given  for  alcohol  stains,  may  be  used. 


STAINS  311 

Ink  may  be  removed  from  finished  surfaces  by  rubbing  the 
spot  with  encaustic  No.  2.  Oxalic  acid  is  also  an  efficient 
remedy.  It  may  be  poured  on  the  spot,  allowed 
to  stand  awhile,  and  then  wiped  off.  If  that  does  ?°  rem°ve 
not  remove  the  stain  wholly,  add  more  acid,  and  from  wood, 
rub  with  a  soft  cloth.  Sometimes  several  appli- 
cations of  the  acid  may  be  necessary.  This  is  particularly 
the  case  with  a  porous  substance,  like  unfinished  wood. 

Black  stains  caused  by  water  or  other  liquids  soaking  into 
wood  may  be  removed  by  pouring  the  oxalic  acid  on  them, 
as  suggested  in  the  treatment  of  ink  stains.  Toremove 
The  acid  removes  the  color  also,  so  that  it  should  stains 
not  be  used  when  a  less  powerful  agent  will  an-  ca£sed  by 
swer.  Of  course,  if  the  color  is  taken  out  it  must 
be  restored.   (See  "  To  Restore  Color  and  Finish  to  Woods.") 

Grease  stains  on  oiled,  painted,  or  varnished  surfaces 
may  generally  be  removed  by  hot  water  and  soap;  on  the 
unfinished  wood  this  is  not  so  easy  a  matter.    A 
more  certain  method  is  to  absorb  the  grease  by      grease, 
some  substance,  or  to  combine  it  with  an  alkali; 
both  of  these  remedies  may  be  used  at  the  same  time.    A 
hot  solution  of  potash  may  be  poured  on  the  grease-stained 
board,  or,  if  one  has  wood-ashes,  a  quart  of  ashes  and  a  quart 
of  water  may  be  simmered  together  for  an  hour,  and  then 
poured  on  the  spot.   If  the  grease  stain  is  from  hot  fat,  these 
solutions  will  have  to  be  renewed  several  times. 

These  strong  alkalis  leave  a  dark  or  yellow  stain     grease  by 
on  the  white  boards.    To  avoid  this,  make  the  so-    absorption 
lution  into  a  thick  paste  with  lime.     This  paste       alkali, 
should  stand  on  the  floor  at  least  twelve  hours. 
On  handsome  floors  use  fullers'  earth  and  a  weak  solution 
vf  sal-soda. 


CHAPTER  XVI 

MISCELLANEOUS  MATTER 

Some  points  on  laying  floor-coverings.  The  finishing,  filling,  and  staining 
of  floors.  How  to  prepare  the  filler.  Staining  with  chemicals.  The 
preparation  and  application  of  stains.  Summary.  Points  on  mixing 
stains.  Stains  made  from  colors  ground  in  oil.  Stains  made  from  colors 
in  powder.  To  graduate  the  stains.  Things  important  to  remember. 
Gluing  furniture  and  other  articles.  How  to  mend  plaster  casts  and  pic- 
ture-frames. To  clean  plaster  casts.  To  wax  and  stain  casts.  Care  of 
small  marbles  and  alabaster.  To  clean  bronzes.  To  polish  the  brass 
trimmings  of  furniture.  Some  uses  of  lime-water.  Chloride  of  lime. 
Liquid  soda.  Javelle  water.  Carbolic  acid.  Solution  of  oxalic  acid. 
Furniture-cleaner  and  -polisher.  Encaustic  No.  1.  Encaustic  No.  2. 
Wax  for  polishing  furniture.  Materials  for  care  of  furniture  and  floors. 
Fullers'  earth.  To  clean  with  fullers'  earth.  To  make  scouring-balls. 
To  clean  with  scouring-balls.  How  to  put  new  linings  in  boots  and  shoes. 
To  clean  combs  and  brushes.  To  clean  coat  collars.  Aids  in  darning 
large  holes.  How  to  revive  and  straighten  whalebone.  To  prevent  stains 
showing  through  whitewash  or  paper.  To  prevent  the  corners  of  rugs 
from  curling.  How  to  heat  inflammable  substances.  Precautions  to 
be  taken  in  cleaning.  Frames  for  dress-waists  and  men's  clothing. 
Convenient  clothes-rack.  Steel  wool  and  steel  shavings.  Insects  and 
vermin.  Cockroaches.  Thermometers  in  the  kitchen.  The  melting- 
point  of  some  metals  and  alloys.  The  melting-point  of  some  fats  and 
sugar.  Bacteriology.   Household  accounts,  and  the  division  of  the  income. 

SOME   POINTS  ON  LAYING  FLOOR-COVERINGS 

Carpet— The  durability  and  appearance  of  carpets,  as 
well  as  the  comfort  of  those  walking  on  them,  depend  largely 
upon  the  manner  in  which  the  carpet  is  laid.  Seldom  can 
an  amateur  do  this  work  as  well  as  a  trained  workman,  and 

312 


MISCELLANEOUS  MATTER  313 

although  one  may  save  a  few  dollars  by  laying  the  carpet 
one's  self,  it  will  be  an  expensive  kind  of  economy  unless  it 
is  well  done. 

A  carpet  of  any  kind  that  does  not  lie  perfectly  flat  gets 
twice  as  much  wear  as  one  that  fits  snugly  to  the     N 
floor.    A  loose  carpet  moves  about  under  the  feet;    of  smoothly 
and  a  stiff  material,  like  oil-cloth,  linoleum,  or     laid  car- 
matting,  cracks  in  the  slight  folds  that  are  made. 

The  surface  on  which  the  carpet  is  laid  has  much  to  do 
with  its  durability.  If  the  floor  is  rough  and  uneven,  the 
carpet  will  not  wear  as  long  as  if  laid  over  a  smooth 
surface. 

Woolen  carpets  should  always  have  a  lining  under  them; 
the  smoother  and  more  even  the  lining,  the  better.  There 
are  many  varieties  of  manufactured  linings  that 
are  excellent  for  this  purpose.  If  one  cannot  carpets* 
afford  the  prepared  linings,  thick  layers  of  news- 
papers will  answer.  The  regularly  made  pads  should  be 
used  on  the  stairs. 

The  floor  on  which  the  carpet  is  to  be  laid  must  be  mea- 
sured accurately.  If  the  carpet  has  a  pattern,  it  should  be 
studied  carefully  so  that  the  breadths  may  be  Matching 
joined  with  the  figures  matching.  Allow  for  figures 
turning  in  at  the  ends.  In  sewing  the  carpet  be  care  y* 
careful  to  get  it  firm  and  strong,  and  see  that  it  does  not 
full  in  the  seam. 

Lay  the  lining,  and  fasten  it  in  place  with  the  smallest 
kind  of  a  tack.     Spread  the  carpet  in  position.     Begin  at 
one  end,  driving  a  few  large  tacks  half-way  into 
place,  so  that  they  may  be  easily  drawn   out.    Yarinjra* 
This   is  to  hold  the   carpet  until  it  is  tacked      carpet, 
around  the  fireplace,  in  case  there  is  one.     Now 
with  large  tacks  get  the  carpet  laid  smoothly  around  the 
mantel,  then  tack  it  regularly.     Work  back  from  the  mantel 
to  the  end  where  the  carpet  is  held  in  place  with  the  large 


314  HOME  ECONOMICS 

tacks.  Readjust  the  end,  and  tack  it  firmly,  drawing  the 
carpet  very  tight  as  you  tack  it. 

Begin  at  the  other  side  of  the  mantel,  and  tack  that  side. 
The  carpet  being  tacked  at  one  end  and  one  side,  it  must 
now  be  stretched,  pulling  it  from  the  tacked  sides  and  ends. 
Put  in  large  tacks,  which  may  be  drawn  out  again,  to  hold 
it  in  position. 

Begin  tacking  at  the  opposite  end  of  the  room,  using  the 
stretcher  continually;  then  finish  by  tacking  the  sides,  still 
using  the  stretcher.  Two  people  can  lay  a  carpet  better 
than  one,  because  one-  can  tack  while  the  other  holds  the 
carpet  firmly  in  place. 

The  most  careful  measurements  must  be  taken,  first  for 
the  lengths  of  the  carpet,  and  next  for  the  places 
carefully.  ^^  must  be  cut— for  example,  to  fit  round  a 
mantel,  doorway,  or  register. 

If  there  is  a  register,  the  space  to  be  left  open  should  be 
Manner  of  measured  and  marked  with  chalk.  The  center  of 
carpeUor  tne  sPace  may tnen  De  pierced  by  the  shears,  and 
register,     the  cutting  done  like  this, 


r 


Fig-  5i- 

following  the  dotted  lines.    The  pieces  may  be  turned  under, 

and  if  at  any  time  there  should  be  need  of  changing  the 

carpet  to  another  room,  they  may  be  darned  together.     In 

fitting  the  carpet  to  angles  and  jogs,  the  cutting  should  be 

done,  when  possible,  in  such  a  manner  that  the  places  cut 

may  afterward  be  sewed  together,  if  necessary. 

Matting.— If  the  floor  on  which  matting  is  to  be  laid  is 

To  lay       n°t  smooth,  cover  it  with  papers.     Cut  the  pieces 

matting.     0f  matting  long  enough  to  admit  of  their  being 


MISCELLANEOUS  MATTER  315 

turned  under.  When  a  half -breadth  must  be  used,  the  side 
that  is  cut  should  be  bound  and  placed  next  to  the  wall. 
One  breadth  of  matting  should  never  lap  over  another. 

When  of  the  best  quality,  Canton  mattings  wear  as  well 
as  a  Brussels  carpet.  The  breadths  are  never  sewed  to- 
gether; they  may  be  laid  so  smoothly  as  to  seem  almost  a 
part  of  the  floor.  The  cheaper  grades,  being  woven  loosely, 
do  not  rest  so  firmly  on  the  floor,  and  are  easily  broken. 
They  are  expensive  at  any  price. 

Japanese  mattings  are  very  soft,  pliable,  and  beautiful. 
The  best  are  woven  on  a  cotton  or  linen  warp.    They  are 
sometimes  sewed  together  like  a  woolen  carpet, 
and  are  also  tacked  down  edge  to  edge,  as  in  the     Stings, 
case  of  the  Canton  mattings.    When  sewed  they 
do  not  lie  as  smoothly  as  when  each  breadth  is  tacked  sep- 
arately.    Whether  the  mattings  are  sewed  or  tacked,  pains 
should  be  taken  to  have  them  fit  the  floor  as 
closely  as  possible.     In  laying  matting,  use  the       ^y^s 
double  tacks  when  two  edges  come  together,  and     mattings, 
the  single  ones  for  the  outside  edges.     When 
binding  is  used  on  a  cut  edge,  match  the  shade  of  the  mat- 
ting as  nearly  as  possible.     Old  holland  shades  make  an 
excellent  binding  for  matting. 

Pretty  mats  can  be  made  of  the  Japanese  matting.     Cut 
the  mats  the  size  desired,  draw  out  strands  at 
both  ends  sufficient  to  make  a  fringe,  and  over-     making, 
cast  the  edges. 

It  is  a  good  plan  to  purchase  enough  of  the  matting  to  cut 
up  for  these  mats,  which  may  be  placed  where  there  is  the 
most  wear.  They  are  so  fine  and  thin  that  they  seem  almost 
a  part  of  the  floor-covering. 

Oil-Cloth  and  Linoleum.— These  coverings  always  stretch 
after  they  have  been  on  the  floor  awhile.  When  measuring 
them,  an  allowance  of  half  an  inch  should  be  made  on  all 
sides  for  stretching.    After  they  have  been  in  place  a  few 


316  HOME  ECONOMICS 

weeks,  it  may  be  found  necessary  to  trim  the  edges  an  inch 

or  more.     If  the  carpet  begins  to  bulge  up  any- 

of  iSeum    where,  immediately  examine  the  edges,  and  you 

and  oil-      will  find  that  they  are  pressing  against  the  walls. 

sketch!      The  trimming  of  the  edges  should  be  done  at 

once;  for  if  the  covering  lies  too  full,  even  for  a 

short  time,  it  will  begin  to  crack,  and  its  durability  will  be 

greatly  diminished. 

THE  FINISHING,   FILLING,   AND   STAINING  OF  FLOORS 

The  workmen  who  lay  the  floor  generally  finish  it  ready 
for  the  polisher.  This  is  the  case  with  all  fine  floors,  but 
every  one  cannot  afford  perfectly  made  and  finished  floors. 
Many  people  would  be  glad  to  dispense  with  carpets,  if  they 
knew  how  to  finish  the  ordinary  floor  so  that  it  would  look 
well  and  could  be  cared  for  with  ease.  This  chapter  is 
written  for  such  people. 

The  kind  and  quality  of  wood  determines  the  treatment 
to  be  given  the  floor.  A  hard,  close-grained  wood  will  not 
require  a  filler,  and  it  will  take  a  higher  polish  than  the  soft 
woods. 

We  will  take  any  common  wood  floor,  just  as  the  carpenter 
has  left  it.  It  has  been  planed  off,  but  the  surface  is  not 
First  step     Per^ ect^  smooth.     The  first  step  toward  prepar- 

toward  ing  this  floor  is  to  rub  the  boards  down  to  abso- 
fteflMx?  ^ute  smootnness-  For  this  purpose  get  a  package 
of  steel  wool,  or  steel  shavings,  of  medium  coarse- 
ness. (See  "  Steel  Wool  and  Steel  Shavings  ".)  Put  on  thick 
gloves.  Take  a  wad  of  the  wool  in  your  hand,  and  rub  one 
board  at  a  time  until  smooth.  In  rubbing  let  the 
tfon^f  the    movement  De  regular,  but  not  too  heavy.     When 

filler.       the  whole  floor  has  been  gone  over,  brush  up  the 

dust,  and  if  the  wood  be  open-grained,  go  over  it 

with  the  filler,  rubbing  it  in  with  a  cloth.    Close  the  room, 


MISCELLANEOUS  MATTER  317 

and  let  the  floor  rest  for  a  day  or  more;  then  rub  it  down 
with  clean,  fine  excelsior.  A  second  coat  of  filler  and  a  second 
rubbing  down  with  excelsior  will  make  the  finish  of  the  floor 
doubly  fine;  but  the  one  coat  will  do,  if  time  and  strength  fail. 
Now  brush  the  floor,  and  with  a  damp  cloth  wipe  off  all 
the  dust.     It  is  now  ready  to  be  waxed  or  oiled. 

HOW  TO  PREPARE  THE  FILLER 

Prepared  fillers  may  be  bought  at  any  paint-supply  shop, 
or  they  may  be  prepared  at  home.    The  object  in  using 
them  is  to  fill  in  the  minutest  interstices  in  the 
wood,  and  so  give  a  uniformly  even  surface.    The    Th°  ^jjjSJJJ* 
foundation  of  wood-fillers  is  oil,  turpentine,  and      fillers, 
either  whiting,  corn  or  other  starch,  or  flake- 
white.     A  drier  is  often  used.     If  the  wood  is   Thecompo- 
dark,  or  the  floor  is  to  be  colored,  enough  color-      fillers, 
ing-matter  is  added  to  the  mixture  to  match  the 
color  of  the  boards  or  the  color  one  wishes  them  to  have. 
Sometimes,  when  it  is  desired  to  keep  the  boards  very  light, 
oil  is  omitted;  but  the  boards  do  not  finish  so  well  as  when 
oil  is  employed. 

For  Light  Wood.— Use  one  pint  of  boiled  linseed-oil,  one 
and  a  half  quarts  of  turpentine,  one  pint  of  fine 
whiting  or  corn-starch  (or  half  whiting  or  corn-      making 
starch  and  half  flake-white  may  be  used).    If  the    the  differ- 
wood  has  color,  add  enough  color  to  make  the     "J^™ 
starch  or  whiting  the  same  shade  as  the  wood. 
For  oak  use  a  little  raw  umber,  not  quite  a  teaspoonful  if 
the  oak  is  white,  more  if  it  is  dark. 

For  Dark  Wood.— Use  one  quart  of  boiled  linseed-oil,  one 
quart  of  turpentine,  one  pint  of  whiting  or  corn-starch.  For 
mahogany  add  one  tablespoonful  of  burnt  sienna,  one  fourth 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  yellow  ocher,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  Bis- 
marck brown. 


318 


HOME  ECONOMICS 


Test  the 
colors  be- 
fore using 
on  floor. 

When  the 
filler  is 
omitted. 

Some  woods 

which  do 

not  require 

a  filler. 


For  Walnut— One  tablespoonful  of  burnt  umber,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  Venetian  red,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  yellow 
ocher. 

For  Ash.— One  level  tablespoonful  of  raw  sienna. 
These  ingredients  must  be  mixed  very  thoroughly,  and  a 
little  be  rubbed  on  a  board  to  test  the  color;  for  the  coloring- 
matter  varies  in  strength,  and  it  is  impossible  to 
give  the  exact  proportions.    In  buying  the  colors 
get  them  in  fine  powder. 

When  the  floors  are  stained  with  the  powdered 
pigments  combined  with  whiting  and  oil,  the  fill- 
ing process  is  omitted  in  the  first  treatment. 

Some  of  the  close-grained  woods  in  common 
use  are  bird's-eye  maple,  cherry,  and  sycamore; 
these,  of  course,  do  not  require  a  filler.  Among 
the  open-grained  woods  are  oak,  mahogany,  the 
pines,  spruces,  etc.,  and  these  should  be  treated  with  a  filler. 
If  there  are  large  cracks  in  the  floor,  fill  them  with  putty 
before  filling  and  staining.  If  there  is  a  great  deal  of  this 
filling  of  cracks  to  be  done,  the  putty  may  be  made  by  mix- 
ing linseed-oil  and  sifted  whiting  together. 

If  the  floor  is  dark,  a  little  color  could  be  worked  in  with 
the  whiting. 

The  working  of  the  whiting  and  oil  together  to  make  a 
smooth  paste  is  quite  laborious. 

If  the  floor  is  old,  or  has  been  previously  painted 
or  varnished,  all  stains  on  paint  or  varnish  must 
be  removed  before  the  filler  is  applied. 

Strong  liquid  ammonia  or  a  strong  solution  of 
potash  or  washing-soda  will  dissolve  paint  or  var- 
nish. If,  at  the  same  time,  it  is  desired  that  the 
boards  be  white,  quicklime  is  used  in  the  wash. 
All  these  substances  are  severely  caustic  and  de- 
structive to  hands  and  fabric ;  for  this  reason  only 
worn-out  garments  should  be  put  on,  and  the  hands  protected 


Removing 
previous 
coats  of 
paint  or 
varnish. 

Use  of  am- 
monia, pot- 
ash, quick- 
lime, and 
washing- 
soda. 


MISCELLANEOUS  MATTER  319 

by  old  thick  gloves,  while  one  is  doing  this  work,  Care  must 
be  exercised,  when  applying  these  caustic  preparations,  not 
to  get  a  drop  on  walls,  base-boards,  doors,  etc.  Strong 
household  ammonia  should  be  employed.  It  may  be  poured 
from  the  bottle  on  paint  or  varnish.  All  the  windows  should 
be  opened.  In  about  half  an  hour  after  the  caustic  has  been 
applied,  the  paint  or  varnish  will  be  soft,  and  it  may  be 
scraped  off.  Wet  the  spot  to  be  removed  with  hot  water, 
and  scrape  gently;  continue  this  until  the  whole  floor  has 
been  gone  over.  From  time  to  time  take  up  the  g  „ 
substance  scraped  from  the  floor.  A  smooth  hoe  wringing 
may  be  used  for  the  scraping.  When  all  is  done,  m°P  should 
wash  the  floor  in  several  clean  waters,  and  wipe 
dry.  A  self-wringing  mop  must  be  employed  in  washing  the 
floor,  as  the  caustic  substance  is  injurious  to  the  hands. 

The  soda  and  potash  are  used  in  the  same  manner.     If 
soda  is  used,  it  should  be  dissolved  in  boiling  water  in  the 
proportion  of  six  quarts  of  water  to  a  pound  of 
soda.    To  prepare  potash,  put  a  pound  of  the  crys-      potash, 
tals  in  a  wooden  pail,  and  pour  on  them  six  quarts 
of  cold  water;  stir  until  dissolved,  and  then  apply.     The 
chemical  action  that  takes  place  during  the  union  of  the 
water  and  the  potash  raises  the  temperature  so  that  the  mix- 
ture becomes  hot.     If  lime  and  soda  are  to  be 
mixed,  put  the  soda  in  a  pail  with  about  a  pound      Mixing 
of  quicklime,  and  on  this  pour  the  cold  water.        soda. 
The  lime  will  slack  immediately,  and  the  soda  will 
dissolve  in  the  hot  mixture.     A  combination  of  lime  and 
potash  is  made  in  the  same  manner. 

To  remove  black  or  dark  stains  from  the  boards,  pour  a 
strong  solution  of  oxalic  acid  on  them,  and  they    wrf     ox 
will  disappear  after  a  short  time.     Should  the    alic  acid  to 
stain  be  very  deep  or  old,  it  may  be  necessary  to      ™£^s6 
repeat  the  application  of  oxalic  acid  several  times. 
The  oxalic  acid  removes  color  and  leaves  the  boards  acid. 


320  HOME  ECONOMICS 

When  boards  are  to  be  colored  by  an  alkaline  substance, 
Neutraliz-  the  cleaned  spot  must  be  neutralized  by  the  ap- 
^wSL"  plication  of  liquid  ammonia  or  soda  before  the 
substance,    staining-material  is  applied. 

STAINING  WITH   CHEMICALS 

There  are  several  chemicals  that  may  be  used  to  darken 
wood,  and  this  is  the  quickest  and  easiest  method  of  stain- 
Ch      t  r-    *n£  ^e  ^oor*    These  stains,  however,  do  not  have 

istics  of     life  or  color,  but  they  are  soft  and  restful,  and 

chemical     when  oiled,  waxed,  or  varnished  make  a  satisfac- 
■tains.  ' 

tory  floor. 

A  stain  of  potassium  permanganate  is  made  as  follows: 
Mix  together  in  a  bowl  cold  water  and  potassium  perman- 
ganate in  the  proportion  of  half  a  pound  of  the 
Potassium    permanganate  to  four  quarts  of  water.     Let  this 
ganate.      stand  several  hours.     Pour  off  the  liquid  into  an- 
other bowL    More  water  may  be  added  to  the 
permanganate  remaining  in  the  first  bowl.   Apply  this  liquid 
to  the  boards  with  a  brush.     Close  the  room,  and  let  the 
floor  dry  thoroughly.    A  few  hours  will  do,  but  it  would  be 
better  to  let  it  stand  for  a  day  or  two. 

Rub  the  boards  with  a  piece  of  clean  carpet,  and  wax,  oil, 
or  varnish,  as  you  may  prefer.     If  a  dark  color  is  desired, 
double  the  quantity  of  potassium  permanganate.   When  a  very 
strong  solution  has  been  used  the  color  is  a  purplish  brown. 
Put  two  pounds  of  potash  in  a  bowl,  and  pour  on  it  four 
quarts  of  cold  water.     Stir  until  the  potash  is  dissolved. 
Apply  this  solution  to  the  boards  with  a  brush, 
wittf11^.    being  careful  not  to  get  any  of  it  on  yourself  or 
ash.        surrounding  objects.     When  this  is  dry,  rub  the 
boards,  and  finish  in  any  way  you  wish.   The  pot- 
ash solution  does  not  darken  the  wood  as  much  as  the  potas- 
sium permanganate;  its  effect  is  to  make  the  wood  look  old. 


MISCELLANEOUS  MATTER  321 

Apply  dilute  nitric  acid  to  the  boards,  allowing  eight 
ounces  of  the  acid  to  each  quart  of  water,  and     staining 
proceed  as  in  applying  potassium  permanganate.     with  nitric 

Apply  household  ammonia  as  in  the  preceding    household 
cases.  ammonia. 

THE    PREPARATION    AND   APPLICATION    OF    STAINS 

At  any  good  paint-shop  you  can  get,  for  a  dollar  and  a 
quarter,  a  gallon  of  staining-liquid  which  will  give 
you  an  imitation  of  almost  any  wood  you  want,  or      jjjSj" 
you  can  prepare  your  own  stain.     The  method 
which  I  shall  give  for  using  the  home-made  stain  applies 
also  to  the  prepared  article. 

After  filling  the  cracks  in  the  floor  with  putty,  see  that 
there  are  no  paint-spots  on  the  boards.     Should  there  be 
any,  pour  turpentine  on  them,  and  after  a  while 
scrape  off  the  paint.   Wipe  all  dust  from  the  floor,    Jiwmethod 
then  apply  the  stain  with  either  a  brush  or  a  piece     the  stain, 
of  cloth.     I  think,  however,  it  gives  a  handsomer 
floor  if  you  first  rub  in  a  little  of  the  stain  with  the  cloth. 
Color  only  a  board  or  two  at  a  time,  moving  the  brush  with 
the  grain  of  the  wood.     When  the  floor  is  finished,    j^-g^m 
close  the  room  for  twenty-four  hours;  four  or  five     closed  as 
days  will  be  better,  if  you  can  spare  the  room.      long" 
At  the  end  of  this  time,  pin  a  piece  of  carpet  on 
a  weighted  brush  and  rub  the  floor,  one  or  two  boards  at  a 
time,  until  smooth  and  glossy.    After  the  whole  floor  has 
been  treated  in  this  manner,  take  the  piece  of  carpet  off 
the  weighted  brush,  and  replace  it  with  a  clean  piece.    Now 
polish  the  floor. 

The  floor  may  be  varnished.     In  that  case  it      How  to 

will  never  require  polishing.     Get  the  prepared     theXor. 

varnish  at  a  paint-shop,  and  put  it  on  with  a  brush, 

being  careful  to  draw  the  brush  smoothly  over  the  boards 
21 


322  HOME  ECONOMICS 

and  with  the  grain.  Be  careful  to  put  the  varnish  on  evenly, 
and  to  have  only  a  thin  coating.  If  you  are  going  to  var- 
nish the  floor,  and  do  not  own  a  weighted  brush,  you  can 
get  down  on  your  knees  and  do  the  rubbing  with  an  old  piece 
of  carpet,  or  rub  with  an  old  hair-bruch  covered  with  carpet. 

SUMMARY 

1.  Fill  cracks,  if  necessary. 

2.  Remove  stains  and  every  particle  of  dirt. 
SjJJJK     3#  ^u^  boards  smooth,  and  wipe  up  all  dust, 
of  staining.    4.  Rub  a  little  stain  in  with  a  piece  of  cloth. 

5.  Go  over  the  floor  again,  applying  the  stain  more 
generously,  but  not  rubbing  it  in  this  time. 

6.  Let  the  floor  dry  for  hours— days,  if  possible. 

7.  At  the  end  of  the  drying-time,  rub  the  floor  with  pieces 
of  clean  carpet  or  woolen  cloths.  This  rubbing  is  to  be  done 
in  the  direction  of  the  grain  of  the  wood. 

8.  Apply  finish  or.  polish. 

POINTS   ON  MIXING   STAINS 

The  foundation  of  nearly  all  kinds  of  wood-stain  which 
amateurs  use  is  a  combination,  chiefly,  of  boiled  linseed-oil, 

Founda-     turpentine,  the  earth  pigments,  and  some  aniline 

tion  of       colors. 

JJ^g"  The  pigments  may  be  bought  in  two  forms— in 

a  dry  powder,  or  ground  in  oil;  but  better  results 

lgmen  '  may  be  obtained  by  using  those  ground  in  oil,  al- 
though they  are  more  expensive  in  this  form  than  in  the  powder. 
Before  mixing  the  stain  there  are  several  things  to  be  de- 
cided upon— the  shade  of  color  desired,  the  condition  of  the 

Points  to     floor,  and  the  extent  of  surface  to  be  stained. 

wdecih!?    ^  ^e  ^oor  *s  *n  £00(*  concttti°n>  any  shade  of 

ginning  to    stain  may  be  applied;  but  if  it  is  spotted  and 

stain.       dark,  the  stain  must  be  dark.     One  may  have 


MISCELLANEOUS  MATTER  323 

a  dark  floor  that  at  the   same  time  is  bright  in  tone. 
This  is  obtained  by  a  generous  use  of  the  yellow  and  red 
pigments  when  mixing  the  stain.     For  example,  a  combina- 
tion of  burnt  sienna,  chrome-yellow,  burnt  umber, 
and  Venetian  red  gives  a  dark  floor,  but  one  that      A^J? 
has  much  warmth  and  life.     One  can  follow  defi-       which 
nite  rules  to  get  special  shades  and  colors,  or  one       give!i1 
can  work  up  a  shade  that  shall  harmonize  with      and  life, 
one's  surroundings,  and  yet  not  be  an  imitation 
of  any  kind  of  wood.   The  following  formulas  may  be  changed 
or  modified  at  the  will  of  the  workman. 


STAINS    MADE    FROM   COLORS  GROUND  IN  OIL 

Light  Stain.— One  pint  of  boiled  linseed-oil,  one  pint  of 
turpentine,  one  tablespoonful  each  of  burnt  umber  and  burnt 
sienna,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chrome-yellow  (colors 
ground  in  oil).  This  gives  a  light  stain  suitable  for  pines 
and  other  light  woods.  It  may  be  made  several  shades 
darker  by  adding  an  extra  tablespoonful  each  of  burnt 
umber  and  burnt  sienna. 

Walnut.— One  pint  of  oil,  one  pint  of  turpentine,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  burnt  umber,  three  of  burnt  sienna,  two  of 
chrome-yellow,  and  half  a  tablespoonful  of  lampblack. 

Antique  Oak.— One  pint  of  oil,  one  pint  of  turpentine,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  burnt  sienna,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  burnt 
umber,  one  tablespoonful  of  lampblack.  Mix  very  thoroughly. 

STAINS    MADE   FROM    COLORS    IN   POWDER 

Dark  Mahogany. 

1  pint  of  boiled  oil. 

lj  gills  of  turpentine. 

3  tablespoonfuls  of  burnt  sienna. 


324  HOME  ECONOMICS 

3  tablespoonfuls  of  whiting. 

J  tablespoonful  of  yellow  ocher  or  chrome-yellow. 

i  tablespoonful  of  Bismarck  brown. 

J  teaspoonful  of  aniline  black. 

Light  Mahogany.— Make  the  stain  as  above,  omitting  the 
black,  and  using  less  burnt  sienna. 

Cherry. 

1  pint  of  boiled  oil. 

1 J  gill  of  turpentine. 

3  tablespoonfuls  of  burnt  sienna. 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  whiting. 

Oak. 

1  pint  of  boiled  oil. 
lj  gills  of  turpentine. 

3  tablespoonfuls  of  raw  umber. 
3  tablespoonfuls  of  whiting. 

Very  Light  Oak.— Make  the  same  as  above,  using  less 
umber  and  more  whiting. 
Antique  Oak.— Add  a  little  lampblack  to  the  first  mixture 
for  oak. 
lcwedfor        The  portions  given  in  the  formulae  are  for 
in  formula*,    about  one  hundred  square  feet. 

TO  GRADUATE    THE    STAINS 

It  often  happens  that  one  does  not  care  to  imitate  a  par- 
ticular wood,  but  would  like  to  get  a  soft  medium  shade. 
This  is  easily  accomplished  by  adding  burnt  umber,  burnt 
sienna,  and  chrome-yellow  in  small  quantities  to  the  light 


MISCELLANEOUS  MATTER  325 

hard-wood  stain,  and  then  testing  on  a  piece  of  board  until 
the  required  color  is  produced.     I  think  this  method  gives 
the  most  satisfactory  results.     The  colors  used,      H 
ground  in  oil,  cost  from  fifteen  to  twenty  cents  a     graduate 
pound,  and  may  be  purchased  in  pound  boxes.      2Jlo/°.r 
Wood-stains  to  imitate  any  wood  may  be  pur-       8tain. 
chased  in  paste,  about  twenty-five  cents  a  pound, 
and  you  may  thin  it  yourself  to  the  proper  consist-    ors  used  in" 
ency,  using  equal  parts  of  boiled  oil  and  turpentine.       stains. 

THINGS    IMPORTANT    TO    REMEMBER 

The  longer  a  floor  stands,  after  the  stain  is  applied,  before 
it  is  rubbed  as  a  preparatory  step  for  applying  the  polish, 
the  handsomer  it  will  be  when  polished.  After  j^g^ 
the  stain  has  been  mixed,  it  should  be  tried  on  a  before  ap- 
piece  of  planed  board.  The  softer  woods,  such  as  vl£n% t0 
soft  white  pine,  will  take  a  deeper  color  than  hard 
woods;  if  there  are  any  sappy  places  in  a  board  they  will  be 
darker  than  the  smooth  and  hard  parts.  The  strength  in 
colors  varies,  and  it  may  be  that  the  proportions  which  are 
given  will,  with  your  colors,  produce  a  lighter  or  darker  effect. 

GLUING    FURNITURE    AND    OTHER    ARTICLES 

Certain  conditions  are  necessary  for  success  in  gluing: 

1.  The  surfaces  to  be  glued  together  must  be  free  from 
old  glue,  and  from  any  particles  of  wood,  dust,  Conditions 
etc.,  that  might  tend  to  keep  them  apart.  necessary 

2.  The  glue  must  not  be  too  thick,  nor  spread  ^'JKjJ 
on  too  thickly. 

3.  The  two  bodies  must  be  fastened  together  very  firmly 
until  the  glue  has  hardened. 

If  all  these  conditions  are  fulfilled,  there  will  be  no  trouble 
in  gluing  successfully. 


326  HOME  ECONOMICS 

Scrape  all  old  glue  from  the  surfaces  to  be  joined.     Have 

at  hand  some  means  of  fastening  the  bodies  together.  Strong 

cords  or  bands  of  cloth  may  be  used,  where  one 

Method  of     1 
gluing.       has  not  a  vlse* 

Apply  a  thin  coat  of  glue  to  both  surfaces,  and 

bring  them  together,  being  careful  to  get  them  in  the  right 

position.    Fasten  them  firmly,  and  let  them  stand  forty-eight 

hours  or  more.    Wipe  off  any  glue  that  may  have  oozed  out 

from  the  joining. 

One  can  now  purchase  a  good  quality  of  liquid  glue,  which 
obviates  the  trouble  and  necessity  of  preparing  a  glue  at 
home.  If  one  prefers  the  latter,  the  manner  of  making  it  is 
comparatively  simple,  if  one  owns  a  glue-pot. 

Break  the  glue  in  small  pieces,  and  cover  it  well  with  cold 
water.     Let  it  soak  several  hours.     Half  fill  the  outer  pot 

Preparing  w^  water>  an(*  f°r  everv  Pmt  of  water  add  one 
the  glue  if  tablespoonful  of  salt;  the  water  boils  at  a  higher 
made  at  temperature  when  salt  is  added.  Place  the  inner 
pot  in  this,  and  set  over  the  fire,  stirring  occa- 
sionally. When  the  glue  has  melted,  thin  to  the  proper  con- 
sistency with  strong  vinegar. 

Glue  loses  strength  by  frequent  heatings ;  there- 
the  amount   f°re  P^an  t°  nea*  only  as  much  as  will  be  required 
required,     each  time. 


HOW    TO    MEND    PLASTER    CASTS    AND    PICTURE-FRAMES 

Collect  all  the  pieces,  and  place  the  cast  where  you  can 
work  with  ease.  It  is  well  to  have  the  cast,  if  small,  on  a 
board  on  which  it  may  be  lifted  when  putting  it  away.  This 
will  obviate  the  necessity  of  handling  after  the  cast  is 
mended. 

Put  a  little  white  of  egg  in  a  saucer;  stir  into  this  enough 
fine  whiting  to  make  a  smooth,  thin  paste.  Wet  the  broken 
parts  with  this,  and  press  them  together  gently  but  firmly. 


MISCELLANEOUS   MATTER  327 

When  all  is  done,  wipe  off  any  particles  of  the  paste  that 
show.  If  bits  of  the  cast  are  lost,  fill  in  with  the  paste,  and 
spread  a  little  very  thin  and  newly  prepared  paste  over  this 
to  give  the  desired  finish. 

If  there  is  a  great  deal  of  work  to  be  done,  prepare  the 
paste  several  times;  it  will  dry  and  become  rough  if  it  stands 
any  length  of  time. 

White-and-gilt  picture-frames  may  be  mended  in  the  same 
manner.  If  the  gilt  part  is  lost,  the  repaired  portion  may  be 
covered  with  gold-leaf,  or,  if  the  frame  is  a  cheap  one,  it 
may  be  touched  with  the  liquid  preparation. 

TO   CLEAN    PLASTER    CASTS 

To  clean  plaster  casts,  cover  them  with  fine  dry  whiting 
and  fullers'  earth.  Wrap  them  in  a  cloth,  and  let  them 
stand  a  few  days;  then  gently  brush  off  the  cleaning-mate- 
rial. This  will  not  always  give  a  spotless  cast,  but  it  is  the 
safest  method.  If  a  wet  substance  is  applied  to  them  there 
is  danger  of  removing  the  thin  coating,  often  changing  the 
whole  expression  of  a  beautiful  cast.  The  better  way  is  to 
have  some  sort  of  finish  put  on  at  the  molder's,  or  one  can 
do  this  at  home. 

TO    WAX    AND   STAIN    CASTS 

Put  a  piece  of  common  yellow  wax,  about  the  size  of  a 
large  English  walnut,  in  a  cup  or  bowl.  Place  the  cup  in  a 
pan  with  a  little  hot  water,  and  put  over  a  moderate  heat 
until  the  wax  is  melted;  then  take  the  pan  from  the  fire,  and 
beat  one  gill  of  turpentine  into  the  melted  wax.  With  a 
soft  brush  apply  the  mixture  lightly  to  the  cast.  When 
dry,  rub  down  with  a  clean  cloth  until  a  good  polish  is  ob- 
tained. Apply  the  wax  again,  dry,  and  polish.  Continue 
this  until  the  desired  shade  is  obtained.    If  shadows  and  a 


323  HOME  ECONOMICS 

dark  background  are  desired,  add  to  the  preparation  left  the 
tiniest  bit  of  raw  umber,  emerald-green,  or  blue.  Brush  the 
places  to  be  darkened  with  this  and  rub  as  before. 

From  time  to  time  polish  with  an  old  kid  glove.  Great 
care  must  be  taken  not  to  get  the  cast  too  dark;  this  is  apt 
to  be  a  fault  of  an  amateur. 

Or  the  cast  may  be  oiled  with  boiled  linseed-oil,  and  then 
polished  as  when  waxed.  If  color  is  desired,  it  may  be 
added  to  the  oil. 

If  a  cream  color  only  is  desired,  use  white  wax  and  refined 
turpentine. 

CARE  OF  SMALL  MARBLES  AND  ALABASTER 

Make  a  strong  suds  with  tepid  water  and  soap.  To  each 
gallon  add  a  tablespoonful  of  liquid  soda.  Wash  the  mar- 
bles in  this,  using  a  soft  brush  or  cloth.  Rinse  quickly  and 
thoroughly.     When  dry,  polish  with  a  soft  cloth. 

TO    CLEAN    BRONZES 

Dust  the  bronze,  then  rub  with  a  cloth  slightly  moistened 
with  sweet-oil.  Rub  dry  with  a  clean,  soft  cloth,  then  polish 
with  an  old  kid  glove  or  chamois-skin. 

TO    POLISH    THE    BRASS    TRIMMINGS    OF    FURNITURE 

Mix  together  one  gill  of  paraffin-oil,  half  a  gill  of  naphtha, 
and  enough  finely  powdered  tripoli  to  make  a  soft  paste. 
Polish  the  brass  with  this,  using  felt,  as  in  polishing  woods. 
Next  dust  with  dry  tripoli,  and  polish  with  a  soft  linen  cloth. 

In  polishing  the  brass  ornaments  or  trimmings  in  furni- 
ture, it  is  desirable  to  use  an  application  that  will  be  as 
beneficial  to  the  wood  as  to  the  brass.  This  is  the  case  with 
the  above  mixture. 


MISCELLANEOUS  MATTER  329 


SOME    USES    OF    LIME-WATER 

Lime-water  is  made  with  quicklime  and  cold  water.  Put 
a  lump  of  lime  in  an  earthen  bowl,  and  half  fill  it  with  cold 
water;  stir  with  a  stick  or  wooden  spoon  until  the  lime  is 
dissolved.  If  it  is  very  thick,  add  cold  water  to  thin  it. 
Let  this  rest  for  two  hours,  and  then  pour  off  the  clear 
liquid,  being  careful  not  to  take  any  of  the  sediment.  Bot- 
tle, and  keep  for  use. 

For  burns,  mix  one  gill  of  the  lime-water  with  on  burns, 
one  gill  of  sweet-oil,  bottle,  and  keep  in  the  kitchen. 

If  soda  has  been  used  on  white  boards  to  take  out  grease, 
the  spot  will  become  dark.     Pour  lime-water  on    To  remove 
this,  and  let  it  rest  for  half  an  hour  or  more,      alkaline 
then  wipe.     The  board  will   have   its   original       white 
white  color.  boards. 

It  is  an  anti-acid  tonic,  and  is  used  with  a  milk  diet  when 
the  milk  disagrees  with  the  patient.     A  table- 
spoonful  to  half  a  pint  of  milk  is  about  the  usual        ^,™ 
dose. 

To  test  the  purity  of  the  air  of  a  room,  half  fill  a  glass 
with  lime-water.  If  there  is  an  excess  of  carbonic  p0r  testing 
acid  in  the  atmosphere,  a  thin  white  scum  forms  the  air  of  a 
on  the  surface  of  the  water.  Lime-water  can  be 
used  to  soften  hard  water.  (See  "Water- Tern-  r^^" 
porary  Hardness.")  Use  one  quart  to  ten  of  hard  water, 
water. 

CHLORIDE   OF    LIME 

This  is  a  good  bleacher  and  disinfectant  also.  When  it 
is  to  be  used  on  fabrics  for  either  purpose,  dissolve  one 
eighth  of  a  pound  in  two  gallons  of  cold  water,  stir  with  a 
stick  for  a  few  minutes  to  break  up  the  particles  of  lime, 
then  let  the  mixture  settle,  and  pour  off  the  clear  liquid  for 


330  HOME  ECONOMICS 

use.  The  sediment  will  be  useful  in  drains  or  on  the  soil. 
This  preparation  should  not  be  made  in  metal. 
Used  as  a  I*1  infectious  diseases  a  pound  of  this  material 
disinfec-  will  be  of  great  use,  if  put  in  saucers  and  distrib- 
tant*  uted  about  the  bathroom,  halls,  and  sick-room. 
It  is  very  caustic,  and  should  not  be  handled  carelessly. 


LIQUID    SODA 

Put  one  pound  of  sal-soda  and  one  quart  of  water  in  a 
saucepan  and  on  the  fire.  The  soda  will  have  dissolved  by 
the  time  the  water  boils.  Let  this  cool,  and  put  it  in  bottles 
for  future  use;  label  the  bottles,  "Liquid  Soda."  This  is  a 
convenient  form  in  which  to  have  sal-soda.  A  tablespoon- 
ful  of  it  added  to  the  water  in  which  clothes  are  boiled 
helps  to  whiten  them,  without  the  danger  of  injury  that 
comes  from  using  the  crystals.  When  kitchen  towels  are 
boiled  a  little  should  be  added  to  the  water.  Utensils  in 
which  food  that  leaves  an  odor  has  been  cooked  may  be  made 
sweet  by  boiling  them  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  in  two 
quarts  of  water  and  a  tablespoonful  of  the  liquid  soda.  In 
fact,  whenever  one  wishes  to  use  washing-soda,  the  liquid 
article  is  ready.  Soda  is  useful  for  cleaning  tin  and  iron, 
for  cleansing  and  sweetening  the  sink  and  all  vessels  that 
are  not  painted  or  varnished. 

It  is  the  abuse  of  such  agents  that  makes  one  hesitate  to 
recommend  them.  It  must  be  remembered  that  sal-soda  is 
very  caustic,  and  will  destroy  all  fabrics  unless  much  diluted. 
It  will  destroy  paint  and  varnish,  and  also  color. 

JAVELLE    WATER 

This  water  can  be  purchased  at  the  druggist's,  but  one 
can  prepare  it  quickly  at  home,  if  liquid  soda  is  kept  on 
hand.    Dissolve  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  chloride  of  lime  in 


MISCELLANEOUS   MATTER  331 

one  quart  of  water;  let  it  settle,  and  pour  off  the  clear  liquid; 
add  to  this  one  pint  of  liquid  soda.  For  light  stains  this 
may  be  diluted  with  its  own  volume  of  cold  water. 

Javelle  water  loses  its  strength  in  being  exposed  to  light 
and  air;  it  should  be  kept  well  corked  and  away  from  the 
light.  It  is  better  to  make  only  a  small  quantity  at  a  time. 
This  preparation  removes  color,  and  must  be  used  only  on 
white  fabrics. 

CARBOLIC    ACID 

This  is  a  most  valuable  substance  in  the  household.  The 
best  form  in  which  it  may  be  purchased  is  in  the  white  crys- 
tals, put  in  a  bottle  with  a  glass  stopper. 

To  make  a  solution  of  any  strength,  dissolve  the  crystals 
and  add  clear  water.     Keep  another  bottle  for  the  solution. 

When  you  wish  to  dissolve  the  crystals,  place  several  folds 
of  paper  or  cloth  on  the  bottom  of  a  small  saucepan,  and  put 
the  bottle  on  this.  Fill  the  pan  with  cold  water,  and  place 
it  over  the  fire.  Have  a  gill  of  cold  water  in  a  second  bot- 
tle, and  pour  into  this  about  two  tablespoonfuls  of  the  liquid 
carbolic.  This  gives  a  solution  of  about  twenty-five-per-cent. 
strength,  which  may  be  diluted  at  pleasure.  This  bottle 
should  be  plainly  labeled,  "Carbolic  Acid— Poison." 

For  sore  throat,  make  a  gargle  with  a  half-pint  of  water 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  the  solution.  The  same  strength  may 
be  used  to  bathe  stings  of  insects. 

Bedroom  floors  or  carpets  wiped  with  a  cloth  wrung  out 
of  four  quarts  of  water,  to  which  have  been  added  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  the  solution,  may  be  kept  in  a  sweet  and  healthy 
condition.  Plants  may  be  freed  from  insects  by  spraying 
them  with  a  weak  solution  of  carbolic  acid— one  table- 
spoonful  of  the  solution  to  a  gallon  of  water. 

In  sickness,  plumbing,  clothing,  toilet  articles,  etc.,  may 
be  disinfected  by  a  proper  use  of  the  solution. 


332  HOME  ECONOMICS 

The  odor  of  the  freshly  dissolved  crystals  is  not  so  strong 
as  that  of  the  solution  which  one  buys  ordinarily. 

SOLUTION    OF    OXALIC    ACID 


Put  four  ounces  of  the  crystals  in  an  eight-ounce  bottle, 
and  add  half  a  pint  of  cold  water.  Shake  well.  This 
amount  of  water  will  not  dissolve  all  the  crystals,  but  for  a 
strong  solution  there  should  always  be  some  of  the  undis- 
solved crystals  in  the  bottle.  Label  plainly,  "Oxalic  Acid 
—Poison." 

FURNITURE-CLEANER  AND  -POLISHER 

Put  into  a  quart  bottle,  in  the  order  named: 

1  gill  of  powdered  rottenstone. 
1  gill  of  cold-drawn  linseed-oil. 
1  gill  of  turpentine. 
1  gill  of  naphtha. 

1  gill  of  strong  solution  of  oxalic  acid. 
i  gill  of  alcohol. 

1  gill  of  cold  water  to  which  has  been  gradually  added  a 
tablespoonful  of  sulphuric  acid. 

Shake  well  the  contents  of  the  bottle,  and  it  is  ready  for 
use.  Keep  well  corked.  Use  this,  as  directed  for  rotten- 
stone  and  oil,  for  cleaning  and  polishing  dull  and  dirty  sur- 
faces. This  preparation  will  remove  white  marks  from  oiled, 
varnished,  or  painted  surfaces. 

ENCAUSTIC    NO.  1 

To  be  used  on  furniture,  floors,  and  marble. 
One  pound  wax;  one  pint  turpentine.     Melt  the  wax  over 
gentle  heat  in  a  water-bath.    When  quite  soft,  remove  from 


MISCELLANEOUS  MATTER  333 

the  fire  and  beat  in  the  turpentine.  If  it  is  to  be  used  on 
furniture,  beat  in  one  gill  of  alcohol.  If  for  floors,  and  the 
finish  is  desired  soft,  add  one  gill  of  paraffin-oil  and  omit  the 
alcohol. 

ENCAUSTIC    NO.  2 

5  quarts  boiling  water. 
4  ounces  laundry  soap. 
2  ounces  sal-soda. 
1  pound  wax. 

Cut  soap  and  wax  fine,  and  put  them  in  the  water,  and 
place  on  the  range.  Stir  frequently  until  dissolved,  then 
add  soda,  and  take  from  the  fire.  Stir  almost  constantly 
until  cool,  then  put  in  a  vessel  that  can  be  covered  closely. 
This  polish  may  be  used  for  floors,  marbles,  tiles,  and  bricks. 
It  will  remove  ink  from  varnished  surfaces.  When  heated 
and  diluted  with  its  own  volume  of  turpentine,  it  may  be 
used  for  cleaning  and  polishing  varnished  or  waxed  surfaces, 
tiles,  marbles,  etc. 

WAX    FOR    POLISHING    FURNITURE 

Break  up  one  pound  of  wax,  and  melt  it  to  the  consistency 
of  thick  cream,  in  a  bowl  which  is  placed  in  a  saucepan  of 
boiling  water.  Take  the  bowl  from  the  fire,  and  gradually 
beat  into  the  wax  one  pint  of  turpentine  and  half  a  pint  of 
alcohol.  Put  this  away  in  covered  jars;  warm  slightly  when 
it  is  to  be  used.  Spread  the  thinnest  layer  possible  on  a 
soft  woolen  cloth,  and  apply  to  the  surface  to  be  polished. 

MATERIALS  FOR  CARE  OF  FURNITURE  AND  FLOORS 

In  the  regular  care  of  the  interior  finish  and  the  furniture 
the  following  materials  will  be  found  valuable.    The  pow- 


334  HOME  ECONOMICS 

ders  should  be  kept  in  small  glass  or  wooden  boxes,  and 
labeled;  they  may  then  be  kept  in  one  shallow  box,  with  the 
other  materials.  The  cost  of  the  outfit  is  slight,  but  the 
convenience  of  having  these  things  at  hand  when  required 
is  great. 

1  ounce  burnt  umber.  1  ounce  raw  umber. 

1  ounce  burnt  sienna.  1  ounce  raw  sienna. 

1  ounce  yellow  ocher.  1  ounce  Bismarck  brown. 

1  ounce  aniline  black.  Whiting. 

Turpentine.  Alcohol. 

Shellac.  Paraffin-oil. 

Boiled  linseed-oil.  Powdered  rottenstone. 

Prepared  wax  (encaustic).  Woolen  cloths. 

Fine  sandpaper.  Steel  wool,  fine  and  coarse. 

Felt.  Powdered  tripoli. 
Powdered  pumice-stone. 

FULLERS'  EARTH 

This  cleansing  agent  may  be  purchased  at  the  druggist's. 
It  is  a  soft,  light-brown  marl,  and  not  expensive.  It  is  a 
most  useful  article  in  the  household.  It  does  not  injure  the 
material  on  which  it  is  used,  is  not  poisonous,  and  it  does 
not  give  off  inflammable  gases.  The  processes  of  cleaning 
fabrics  with  it  are  longer  than  when  the  volatile  agents  are 
used,  but  when  an  absorbent  of  grease  is  required  it  is  most 
satisfactory.  It  can  be  bought  in  fine  powder,  as  can  also 
French  chalk. 

TO  CLEAN  WITH  FULLERS'  EARTH 

Moisten  the  earth  with  cold  water;  lay  the  article  on  a 
clean  table,  and  spread  a  thin  layer  of  the  paste  over  the 
soiled  places.     Hang  the  garment  in  a  dry  place  for  one  or 


MISCELLANEOUS  MATTER  335 

two  days,  then  brush  off  the  dry  earth.  If  there  are  grease- 
spots  on  the  garment,  the  earth  that  is  applied  to  them 
should  be  made  quite  wet  with  turpentine.  Brush  and  press 
the  garment. 


TO    MAKE    SCOURING-BALLS 

Make  a  strong  suds  of  white  Castile  soap;  pour  enough 
I  of  this  on  half  a  pound  of  fullers'  earth  to  make  a  fairly  stiff 
paste.  Work  this  into  smooth  balls  about  the  size  of  a  small 
egg,  and  let  them  dry. 

These  balls  are  sometimes  made  with  a  mixture  of  fullers' 
earth,  ox-gall,  soap,  and  turpentine.  They  clean  heavy  and 
much-soiled  goods  more  readily  than  do  those  made  with  the 
Castile  soap-suds  and  the  earth,  but  they  cannot  be  used  on 
delicate  colors.  It  will  be  very  little  trouble  to  prepare  both 
kinds. 

The  scouring-balls  may  be  used  in  cleaning  spots  on 
carpets. 

TO    CLEAN    WITH    SCOURING-BALLS 

Shake  all  loose  dust  from  the  article  to  be  cleaned. 
Spread  it  on  a  clean  table  or  board.  Sponge  the  soiled 
places  lightly  with  a  cloth  dipped  in  tepid  water.  Go  over 
the  soiled  fabric  with  the  scouring-ball,  rubbing  gently  and 
thoroughly  every  part  of  it.  When  all  the  soiled  surface 
has  been  treated,  hang  the  garment  in  a  dry  place  for  a  day 
or  two,  then  brush  the  parts  treated;  they  will  be  found 
perfectly  clean.  As  this  treatment  removes  all  the  surface 
dirt,  the  cleansed  places  will  be  of  a  little  lighter  shade  than 
those  which  have  not  been  treated.  It  may  be  necessary  to 
press  the  garment  if  it  was  very  dirty  and  required  a  thor- 
ough application  of  the  scouring-ball. 


336  HOME  ECONOMICS 


HOW    TO    PUT    NEW    LININGS    IN    BOOTS    AND    SHOES 

The  kid  or  other  linings  in  boots  and  shoes  often  become 
soiled  or  broken  before  the  boots  are  half  worn,  and  should 
be  replaced  by  fresh  ones.  If  the  new  linings  are  not  prop- 
erly fitted  and  pasted,  they  become  a  source  of  great  dis- 
comfort. First  cut  an  exact  pattern  of  the  sole  of  the  boot. 
To  do  this,  place  the  boot  on  a  sheet  of  paper,  and  draw  the 
outlines  of  the  sole;  then  cut  the  pattern,  which  keep  for 
future  use.  If  kid  is  used,  purchase,  at  a  leather-store, 
one  kid  skin  finished  in  white.  Spread  the  skin  on  a  board, 
finished  side  up,  and  lay  the  pattern  on  it,  and  with  a  pencil 
draw  the  outline.  When  you  have  drawn  half  the  number 
of  linings  required,  turn  the  pattern  over  and  draw  the  other 
half;  this  will  give  you  rights  and  lefts.  Be  careful,  in  out- 
lining the  soles,  to  place  the  pattern  so  as  to  give  as  little 
waste  material  as  possible.  Cut  the  leather  with  a  sharp- 
pointed  knife,  following  the  pencil  lines.  One  skin  will 
make  enough  linings  to  last  one  person  for  years. 

Make  a  paste  with  half  a  teaspoonful  of  flour  mixed  smooth 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  cold  water.  Pour  on  this  enough 
boiling  water  to  make  a  thin  paste  (about  three  tablespoon- 
fuls).  Tear  the  old  linings  out  of  the  boot,  then  wipe  thor- 
oughly to  be  sure  there  are  no  particles  of  dust  or  lint 
adhering  to  the  boot.  Cover  the  wrong  side  of  the  lining 
with  a  thin  layer  of  paste.  Nearly  double  the  lining,  paste 
side  in,  and  slip  into  the  boot,  unfolding  it  as  it  passes  in 
place.  See  that  it  fits  smoothly  everywhere.  Pass  the  hand 
gently  over  it,  pressing  lightly  until  the  surface  is  perfectly 
smooth.  Then  go  all  over  the  surface  with  a  piece  of  soft 
cloth,  using  a  good  deal  of  pressure.  The  boots  should  stand 
at  least  twelve  hours  to  dry.  If  these  directions  are  followed 
to  the  letter,  the  lining  will  fit  and  adhere  perfectly. 


MISCELLANEOUS  MATTER  337 


TO    CLEAN    COMBS    AND    BRUSHES 

Put  enough  water  in  a  wash-bowl  to  reach  the  backs  of 
the  brushes,  but  not  to  flow  over  them.  To  each  quart  of 
water  add  one  tablespoonful  of  borax.  Free  the  brushes 
from  dust,  and  place  them,  bristles  down,  in  the  water.  Let 
them  soak  about  ten  minutes,  then  sop  them  up  and  down 
in  the  water  until  the  bristles  look  clean.  Rinse  in  plenty 
of  clean  cold  water,  and  dry  in  a  current  of  air. 

Ammonia  may  be  substituted  for  the  borax;  but  as  it 
softens  the  finish  on  the  wooden  backs  of  the  brushes,  it 
must  be  used  with  care. 

Silver  brushes  may  be  immersed  in  the  ammonia  or  borax 
water. 

Heat  and  moisture  dissolve  the  glue  used  to  fasten  the 
bristles  to  the  back;  therefore  brushes  of  any  kind  should 
not  be  soaked  for  too  long  a  time,  and  never  in  hot  water. 
Never  dry  them  in  great  heat. 

Wash  the  combs  in  borax  or  ammonia  water,  rinse  in  cold 
water,  and  wipe  dry.     Combs  should  not  be  soaked  or  left  wet. 

TO    CLEAN    COAT   COLLARS 

Wet  the  soiled  place  with  turpentine,  and  let  it  rest  for 
ten  or  more  minutes,  then  wet  again.  Scrape  off  the  loos- 
ened dirt.  Wet  once  more  with  the  turpentine,  and  again 
scrape  off  the  loose  dirt.  Continue  this  until  all  the  dirt 
has  been  removed.  In  all  the  work  let  the  scraping  be  very 
gentle,  that  the  fabric  may  not  be  injured.  Then  sponge 
with  a  clean  cloth  and  turpentine,  and  wipe  until  dry.  The 
final  sponging  may  be  with  alcohol  or  chloroform.  These 
two  substances  evaporate  quickly  and  leave  a  fresher-looking 
surface  than  when  the  cleaning  is  finished  with  turpentine. 


338  HOME  ECONOMICS 


AIDS    IN    DARNING    LARGE    HOLES 

Baste  a  piece  of  thin  net  over  the  hole,  and  darn  in  the 
usual  manner.  The  mesh  of  the  net  makes  a  groundwork 
for  the  threads.  Old  veils  and  bits  of  worn  lace  are  well 
adapted  for  this  work. 

HOW    TO    REVIVE    AND    STRAIGHTEN    WHALEBONE 

Soak  the  bent  bone  in  warm  water  until  it  is  pliable;  then 
press  it  with  a  warm  iron. 


TO    PREVENT    STAINS    SHOWING    THROUGH    WHITE- 
WASH  OR    PAPER 

Before  beginning  to  paper  or  whitewash,  examine  walls 
and  ceiling,  and  if  there  are  any  dark  spots,  cover  them  with 
a  coat  of  shellac. 


TO  PREVENT  THE  CORNERS  OF  RUGS  FROM  CURLING 

Sew  some  stiff  material  like  buckram  or  haircloth  on  the 
under  side  of  the  corners. 


HOW    TO    HEAT    INFLAMMABLE    SUBSTANCES 

An  inflammable  substance  like  alcohol,  rum,  turpentine, 
etc.,  should  always  be  heated  in  a  water-bath  and  watched 
carefully.  Alcohol,  rum,  or  whisky,  when  required  for  fric- 
tion, should  be  put  in  a  bottle.  Place  the  bottle  in  a  sauce- 
pan of  cold  water,  and  set  on  the  range.  By  the  time  the,*^ 
water  boils  the  liquid  in  the  bottle  will  be  hot.     Keep  try 


MISCELLANEOUS  MATTER  339 

bottle  in  the  hot  water  while  the  liquid  is  being  used.  In 
heating  turpentine,  place  the  vessel  which  contains  it  in  a 
pan  of  hot  water.  Watch  this  while  on  the  fire,  as  it  gives 
off  inflammable  gases.  It  is  not  often  necessary  to  heat 
turpentine  to  a  high  temperature. 

PRECAUTIONS    TO    BE    TAKEN    IN    CLEANING 

The  pail  in  which  the  water  for  cleaning  is  put  must 
always  have  a  paper  placed  under  it,  whether  it  rest  on  floor, 
carpet,  or  other  support. 

Oil-bottles  or  other  receptacles  must  be  placed  on  several 
folds  of  paper  or  cloth,  or  on  a  plate  or  tray.  Bottles  in 
which  there  are  acids,  alcohol,  or  other  cleaning  substances, 
when  in  use,  must  always  have  paper  placed  under  them. 

Soaps  must  always  rest  in  a  dish  of  some  kind. 

Cleaning-cloths  must  not  be  dropped  carelessly  anywhere; 
they  should,  if  wet,  be  placed  on  paper. 

When  using  any  caustic  substance,  like  lye,  washing-soda, 
ammonia,  the  greatest  care  must  be  exercised  that  not  a 
drop  is  spilled  on  paint  or  varnish;  and  if  such  an  accident 
should  occur,  immediately  use  plenty  of  water  on  the  spot, 
or  pour  on  oil. 

If  alcohol  is  spilled  on  varnish,  wash  with  water  immedi- 
ately, or  pour  on  oil.  Be  careful  not  to  spill  an  acid  on 
marble;  but  should  this  happen,  pour  on  water,  and  wash  off 
quickly. 

In  dusting  or  moving  pictures,  care  should  be  used  not  to 
rub  or  handle  roughly  gilt  frames.  Oil-paintings  must  be 
dusted  in  the  lightest  and  most  careful  manner,  and  should 
always  be  carefully  covered  before  sweeping. 

Be  careful  that  all  cloths  and  brushes  are  put  away  clean 
and  dry,  so  that  when  needed  they  shall  be  in  readiness. 

Do  not  use  strong  acids  or  alkalis  on  the  metals  connected 
with  plumbing. 


340 


HOME  ECONOMICS 


FRAMES    FOR    DRESS-WAISTS    AND    MEN'S    CLOTHING 

Cut  the  hoops  of  a  small  barrel  (the  size  known  as  half- 
barrels)  in  two  parts.  Wind  folds  of  cambric  or  cotton  on 
these,  and  fasten  smoothly  and  firmly  at  the  ends. 

Tie  a  strong  cord  in  the  middle  of  each  frame.  Make  a 
generous  loop  by  which  the  frame  can  be  hung  on  the  hooks. 

The  advantages  of  these  frames  are  that,  while  they  sup- 
port the  garment  perfectly,  they  are  so  free  from  sharp 
lines  that  they  do  not  leave  their  impress  upon  it.  Their 
cheapness  and  lightness  make  it  possible  to  have  as  many  as 
one  may  desire,  and  a  few  can  be  packed  with  ease  for  use 
when  one  is  traveling. 


CONVENIENT    CLOTHES-RACK 

When  one  is  cramped  for  room,  as  is  so  often  the  case  in 
a  flat  or  boarding-house,  a  rack  made  to  fit  a  curtained  space, 
as  an  unused  door,  will  be  found  invaluable.  Have  a  planed 
board  about  five  inches  wide  and  the  length  of  the  space  it 


Fig.  52. 


is  to  fill.  Screw  the  desired  number  of  hooks  into  this;  on 
the  top  fasten  two  large  screw-eyes  (Fig.  52).  Fasten  two 
strong  hooks  in  the  wall  or  door,  and  hang  the  board,  by  the 
screw-eyes,  on  these. 

The  advantage  of  this  rack  is  that  it  can  be  hung  where 
one  could  not  put  in  nails  or  hooks.  It  may  be  made  so  long 
that  it  will  utilize  all  the  space.  The  expense  is  almost 
nothing;  the  hooks  and  a  piece  of  a  dry-goods  box  will  answer. 


MISCELLANEOUS  MATTER  341 

To  protect  the  garments  from  dust,  tack  an  old  sheet  over 
the  wall  before  the  rack  is  put  up. 

STEEL  WOOL  AND  STEEL  SHAVINGS 

In  European  countries,  where  polished  floors  are  the  rule, 
steel  shavings  are  used  to  clean  off  the  floors  when  they 
become  very  much  stained.  In  this  country  steel  shavings 
or  wool  is  used  in  rubbing  down  woodwork  in  interior  finishes, 
but  not  much  on  floors.  However,  when  properly  used,  this 
substance  is  a  great  aid  in  removing  unsightly  stains,  or  in 
making  rough  spots  smooth.  The  American  article  is  known 
as  steel  wool,  and  the  imported  article  as  steel  shavings. 
The  very  coarse  should  be  used  on  coarse  floors,  and  the  finer 
grade  on  fine  floors.  It  may  generally  be  found  at  painters' 
supply-shops. 

INSECTS    AND    VERMIN 

The  housekeeper  must  always  be  on  guard  against  the 
many  enemies  of  foods,  fabrics,  materials,  and  personal  com- 
fort, which  find  entrance  into  the  house  in  the  form  of  insects 
and  larger  vermin.  No  place  is  exempt  from  these  pests, 
but  if  one  lives  in  a  detached  house  it  is  a  comparatively 
easy  matter  to  keep  it  free  from  them.  The  dwellers  in 
apartment  and  block  houses  are  liable  to  invasion  from  the 
neighboring  apartments.  Water-  and  steam-pipes  add  to 
the  ease  with  which  water-bugs,  cockroaches,  etc.,  find  their 
way  through  all  parts  of  a  building.  Unscreened  doors  and 
windows  admit  flies,  mosquitos,  moths,  etc.  Rats  and  mice 
find  their  way  into  cellars  and  walls  in  the  most  unaccount- 
able manner. 

Absolute  cleanliness  and  eternal  vigilance  are  the  price 
of  freedom  from  these  troublesome  visitors.  There  are 
methods  of  exterminating  all  these  plagues;  but,  when  pos- 


342  HOME  ECONOMICS 

sible,  the  preventives  should  be  employed.  If,  however,  the 
housekeeper  finds  that  any  kind  of  vermin  has  found  lodg- 
ment in  her  premises,  she  should  use  immediate  and  vigorous 
measures  to  exterminate  them,  using  the  cleanest,  surest, 
and  safest  remedies  that  she  is  acquainted  with.  There  are 
some  manufactured  articles  on  the  market  that  will  clean 
a  house  thoroughly  of  all  insects,  if  used  faithfully.  The 
housekeeper  may  also  employ  successfully  many  substances 
with  which  she  is  familiar. 

Naphtha,  properly  used,  is  one  of  the  cleanest,  easiest, 
and  most  effective  remedies;  but  it  must  be  used  with  intel- 
ligence and  care0  None  but  responsible,  careful  people 
should  ever  be  allowed  to  employ  this  agent.  The  danger 
is  from  an  inflammable  gas  which  it  gives  off.  If  the  work 
is  done  in  a  room  where  the  windows  are  wide  open,  and 
there  is  neither  light  nor  fire,  there  is  not  the  slightest 
danger. 

In  attempting  to  exterminate  any  sort  of  insects  by  the 
use  of  naphtha,  it  must  be  remembered  that  the  infested 
places  must  be  saturated  with  the  naphtha,  and  also  that 
this  only  kills  the  living  animal,  not  the  eggs.  After  the 
first  application  of  naphtha,  wait  three  or  four  days,  and 
saturate  the  places  a  second  time;  this  will  kill  any  life  that 
may  have  developed  from  the  eggs.  When  naphtha  has 
been  used  in  this  manner,  the  windows  of  the  room  should 
be  left  open  for  several  hours. 

Water-bugs.— Pour  a  weak  solution  of  turpentine  into  the 
pipes  once  a  week  for  a  few  weeks,  and  the  bugs  will  cease 
to  make  their  visits.  Use  half  a  pint  of  turpentine  to  three 
pints  of  water.  The  turpentine  will  drive  the  bugs  from 
their  hiding-place,  and  they  should  be  killed  when  they  are 
seen.  The  remedies  that  will  exterminate  cockroaches  will, 
as  a  rule,  exterminate  water-bugs  also.  The  preparations 
that  one  buys  for  cockroaches  are  generally  effective  for 
water-bugs  and  ants. 


MISCELLANEOUS   MATTER  343 

Cockroaches.— One  of  the  methods  of  drawing  cockroaches 
into  the  house  is  to  leave  kitchen  garbage  standing  about 
for  hours.  The  greatest  care  should  be  exercised  to  de- 
stroy or  remove  all  garbage  as  soon  as  the  dishes  are  washed- 
Keep  all  food  covered;  keep  all  corners  and  crevices  clean 
and  dry.  There  are  several  methods  of  exterminating  the 
roaches. 

1.  Blow  insect-powder  into  all  the  cracks  from  which  the 
pests  come.  In  a  few  hours  brush  up  the  dead  insects  and 
powder,  and  burn  them.  Fill  all  cracks  and  holes  with  a 
second  dose  of  powder.  After  a  few  hours  brush  up  and  burn 
powder  and  roaches.  Then  spread  powdered  borax  about  the 
cracks  and  holes. 

2.  Make  a  strong  solution  of  carbolic  acid,— two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  the  acid  to  a  pint  of  water,— and  force  this 
solution  into  all  the  cracks  and  openings.  The  odor  of  the 
carbolic  lasts  for  several  days;  one  may,  however,  be  com- 
forted with  the  knowledge  that  nothing  can  be  cleaner  or 
more  effective.  It  may  require  several  applications  of  the 
solution. 

3.  Dissolve  one  pound  of  alum  in  three  pints  of  hot  water, 
and  force  the  hot  solution  into  the  cracks  and  openings. 
Afterward  spread  borax  about  the  places  where  the  roaches 
have  been  in  the  habit  of  appearing. 

Ants.— To  exterminate  ants,  use  the  hot  solution  of  alum 
or  the  carbolic  solution  as  for  cockroaches.  Or  pour  oil  of 
pennyroyal  on  a  large  piece  of  cotton-batting;  tear  this  into 
small  bits,  and  spread  them  about  the  places  where  the  ants 
appear.  The  odor  is  very  strong  and  lasting.  With  the 
removal  of  the  cotton  it  soon  disappears. 

When  the  fresh  pennyroyal  can  be  procured,  spread  the 
leaves  about  the  infested  places. 

Bedbugs.— l.  The  quickest,  cleanest,  and  surest  method 
of  exterminating  this  pest  is  by  the  use  of  naphtha.  Open 
all  the  windows  in  the  room.     Shake  and  examine  all  the 


344  HOME  ECONOMICS 

bedding.  Hang  out  sheets,  blankets,  etc.  Saturate  the 
mattresses  and  pillows  with  naphtha,  and  put  them  out  of 
doors,  if  possible.  Brush  the  walls  of  the  room,  not  leaving 
a  particle  of  dust  in  crack,  groove,  or  corner.  Sweep  the 
floor  or  carpet,  if  there  is  one.  Take  the  bedstead  apart, 
and  lay  the  parts  on  the  floor,  the  grooved  sides  up.  Satu- 
rate all  the  joints  and  grooves  with  naphtha.  Wet  the  car- 
pet with  the  naphtha.  If  there  are  any  cracks  or  breaks  in 
walls  or  floor,  fill  them  with  naphtha.  Then  leave  the  room, 
locking  the  door,  that  no  one  may  enter  until  all  the  gas  has 
passed  off.  A  few  hours  will  answer,  but  where  naphtha  is 
used  in  large  quantities,  it  is  safer  to  keep  the  windows 
open  and  the  door  shut  the  greater  part  of  the  day. 

This  application  of  naphtha  will  kill  all  the  living  insects 
that  it  comes  in  contact  with,  but  not  the  eggs.  In  three 
or  four  days  repeat  the  operation,  and  there  will  be  no  more 
trouble,  unless  the  insects  are  in  the  wall,  where  the  naphtha 
cannot  reach  them. 

Caution :  Remember  that  there  is  great  danger  if  fire  or 
light  is  allowed  in  the  room  while  the  work  is  being  done, 
or  for  hours  after,  while  the  inflammable  gas  is  in  the  room. 
On  the  other  hand,  there  is  not  a  particle  of  danger  if  these 
directions  are  carefully  followed.  The  advantage  of  the 
naphtha  over  all  other  remedies  is  that  it  is  not  injurious 
to  any  finish,  fabric,  or  color.  It  leaves  everything  cleaner 
than  at  the  beginning  of  the  process.  The  work  is  quickly 
and  easily  done,  and  the  odor  passes  off  quickly. 

2.  Clean  the  room  as  for  the  naphtha  process.  If  there  is 
a  carpet,  remove  the  tacks,  then  blow  insect-powder  all  over 
it.  Fold  it  from  both  sides  toward  the  middle,  and  powder 
the  parts  that  are  folded  over.  Fold  both  ends  toward  the 
middle,  and  powder  again.  Roll  the  carpet  up,  powdering 
the  under  part  as  it  comes  to  the  top.  By  following  these 
directions,  every  part  of  the  carpet  will  be  covered  with  the 


MISCELLANEOUS  MATTER  345 

powder.  Let  the  carpet  lie  rolled  up  in  this  manner  for  a 
day;  then  have  it  beaten  and  brushed. 

Spray  the  mattress  and  pillows  with  the  powder.  Take 
the  bedstead  apart  as  for  the  naphtha  process;  wash  it  with 
a  strong,  solution  of  carbolic  acid,  pouring  the  solution  into 
the  grooves  and  joints.  Wash  the  base-boards  and  floor  with 
the  carbolic  solution,  spraying  cracks  and  joints  with  it. 
Let  the  windows  stand  open  all  day.  The  odor  of  the  car- 
bolic will  last  for  some  time,  but  it  is  clean. 

If  there  is  a  strong  objection  to  the  odor  of  carbolic,  the 
insect-powder  may  be  used  instead.  It  may  require  two 
applications  of  either  powder  or  carbolic.  Old  powder  is  not 
effective. 

Examine  the  picture-moldings;  they  are  generally  made 
of  the  soft  white  woods  in  which  these  insects  thrive. 

Moths  and  Buffalo-bugs.— The  naphtha  treatment  as  for 
bedbugs  will  exterminate  moths  and  buffalo-bugs.  It  must 
be  remembered  that  all  the  eggs  must  be  removed  by  brush- 
ing and  shaking  before  the  naphtha  is  applied;  or,  if  not, 
treat  the  articles  to  a  second  dose  of  naphtha  after  three 
or  four  days. 

Frequent  thorough  brushings,  beatings,  and  airings  will 
keep  furnishings  and  garments  free  from  these  destructive 
insects. 

If  closets  are  washed  in  the  spring  and  fall  with  a  weak 
solution  of  carbolic  acid,  one  may  be  reasonably  sure  that 
they  will  be  free  from  insects. 

Kill  every  moth-miller  found  flying  in  the  house.  Should 
you  find  the  minutest  colony  of  moths  or  buffalo-bugs  in  a 
piece  of  furniture  or  fabric,  do  not  cast  them  to  the  four 
winds  to  prey  upon  your  neighbors.  Take  the  article  into 
the  laundry  or  a  vacant  room,  and  saturate  it  with  naphtha; 
then  put  it  out  of  doors,  if  you  please;  the  moths  will  be 
beyond  doing  any  further  harm. 


346  HOME  ECONOMICS 

Flies  and  Mosquitos.— Of  course,  if  good  screens  are  on 
doors  and  windows  there  will  be  little  trouble  with  either 
flies  or  mosquitos. 

Open  the  windows.  Put  some  insect-powder  on  an  old 
plate;  set  fire  to  it,  and  place  on  an  inverted  tin  pan  in  the 
middle  of  the  room.  Close  the  door.  The  smoke  will  drive 
the  flies  and  mosquitos  out  of  the  room. 

Rats  and  Mice.— If  these  vermin  get  into  the  house,  the 
safest  method  of  removing  them  is  by  the  trap.  Have  all 
the  holes  filled  in  this  manner:  sprinkle  chloride  of  lime  in  the 
hole,  then  fill  in  with  broken  glass,  and  finally  seal  with  mor- 
tar or  plaster  of  Paris.  Bait  the  traps  with  meat;  it  is  much 
more  effective  than  cheese.  If  there  must  be  delay  in  filling 
the  holes,  give  them  a  generous  dose  of  the  chloride  of  lime. 

THERMOMETERS    IN    THE    KITCHEN 

If  it  were  possible  to  use  the  thermometer  freely  in  all 
culinary  operations,  the  science  of  cookery  would  be  very 
much  simplified;  but  there  are  many  obstacles  in  the  way. 
The  ordinary  thermometer  is  very  fragile,  and  must  be  used 
with  the  greatest  care,  and  in  the  various  dishes  which  are 
being  prepared  at  the  same  time  it  would  be  impossible  to 
use  the  instrument  freely.  The  glass  is  liable  to  break  when 
exposed  to  extremes  of  temperature.  Many  attempts  have 
been  made  to  produce  a  satisfactory  oven-thermometer,  but, 
so  far  as  I  know,  the  only  successful  one  is  based  on  the 
principle  of  the  expansion  and  contraction  of  metals.  This 
thermometer  has  an  indicator  like  the  face  and  hands  of  a 
clock,  and  is  fitted  into  an  opening  in  the  oven  door.  While 
this  thermometer  does  not  indicate  the  temperature  to  a 
nicety,  like  mercury,  it  is  accurate  enough  for  all  practical 
purposes.  The  trouble  with  a  mercury  thermometer  is  that 
when  exposed  continuously  to  a  high  temperature  the  mer- 
cury does  not  fall  back  easily,  and  sometimes  refuses  to  do 


MISCELLANEOUS  MATTER  347 

so  at  any  temperature.  A  thermometer  that  is  used  in 
cooking  should  be  incased  in  copper.  They  may  be  pur- 
chased or  ordered  at  any  chemical  supply-store. 

In  using  a  thermometer  great  care  is  necessary  to  protect 
the  bulb  from  cracking  or  breaking.  Always  heat  and  cool  it 
gradually.  A  thermometer,  when  plunged  into  a  hot  liquid, 
or  when  taken  from  a  hot  bath  and  exposed  to  cold  air,  is 
liable  to  break.  The  bulb  must  never  rest  on  the  bottom  of 
a  stew-pan.  Be  careful  not  to  hit  or  jar  it.  Immediately 
after  using,  it  should  be  wiped  dry  and  carefully  put  away. 

THE    MELTING-POINT    OF    SOME    METALS    AND    ALLOYS 

Many  household  utensils  are  often  exposed  to  too  high  a 
temperature,  because  of  ignorance  of  the  melting-point  of 
the  metal  or  alloy  from  which  they  are  made.  With  the 
exception  of  iron  and  steel,  but  few  pure  metals  are  used  in 
the  manufacture  of  household  articles,  the  greater  number 
of  metal  articles  being  made  with  alloys. 

Many  alloys  melt  at  a  much  lower  temperature  than  any 
one  of  the  metals  which  enter  into  their  combination.  The 
following  tables  of  the  melting-point  of  a  few  of  the  metals 
and  alloys  will  illustrate  this  fact. 

F. 

Copper 2000° 

Zinc 914°  *g«- 

Antimony 810°  which  dif- 

Lead 612°  ««SS 

Bismuth 476°  meit. 

Tin 442° 

1  part  tin,  25  parts  lead 558°     Teupera- 

4  parts  tin,  1  part  lead 365°    wh^  dif. 

2  parts  tin,  2  parts  lead,  1  part  bismuth     .     292°     ferent  ai- 

5  parts  tin,  3  parts  lead,  3  parts  bismuth   .    202°    i°ysmeit 


348  HOME  ECONOMICS 

Britannia  is  made  from  tin,  copper,  and  antimony  in  vary- 
ing proportions,  depending  upon  the  quality  of  the  product. 
If  we  were  to  estimate  the  melting-point  of  this  alloy  by 
that  of  the  metals  that  enter  into  its  composition,  we  should 
place  it  high;  but  we  all  know  by  experience  that  the  melt- 
ing-point is  very  low,  so  we  are  careful  not  to  expose  utensils 
made  from  this  metal  to  a  temperature  much  above  the 
boiling-point  of  water  (212°). 

In  using  utensils  made  from  alloys  of  all  kinds,  the  liability 
to  melt  at  a  low  temperature  must  always  be  kept  in  mind, 
that  the  article  may  not  be  softened  and  gotten  out  of  shape, 
or,  worse  still,  injured  beyond  repair. 


THE   MELTING-POINT    OF    SOME   FATS    AND    SUGAR 

F. 

Olive-oil 75-76° 

Cotton-seed  oil 95.5° 

Butter 91-94.8° 

Kidney  suet  of  most  animals    .    .     .  101.6-130.8° 

Lard 108.5-112.3° 

Sugar 320-400° 

When  a  bottle  of  olive-oil  standing  in  a  temperature  of 
75°  or  76°  looks  a  little  thick  or  is  flecked  with  undissolved 
particles,  it  is  an  indication  that  it  has  been  adulterated  with 
an  oil  that  melts  at  a  higher  temperature. 

When  butter  holds  its  shape  at  a  temperature  above  95°, 
it  is  an  indication  that  it  has  been  adulterated  with  some 
fat,  like  suet,  that  melts  at  a  temperature  above  95°. 

When  dry  sugar  is  exposed  to  a  temperature  of  320°  it 
begins  to  melt;  when  the  temperature  reaches  400°  the  sugar 
passes  to  the  caramel  stage,  and  from  that  to  the  dark,  bitter 
substance  known  as  burnt  sugar. 


MISCELLANEOUS  MATTER  349 


BACTERIOLOGY 

This  wonderful  science  has  developed  so  rapidly  that  it  is 
almost  impossible  to  realize  that  comparatively  little  was 
known  about  it  twenty  years  ago.  Through  this  science 
have  been  found  means  of  preventing  and  arresting  disease 
and  decay  in  animal  and  vegetable  life,  and  a  knowledge  of 
it  is  very  important  to  the  housekeeper,  that  she  may  protect 
her  family  and  belongings  against  the  ravages  of  the  de- 
structive bacteria.  So  many  wild  and  absurd  statements 
have  been  made  by  those  who  have  only  a  superficial  know- 
ledge of  the  subject  that  the  result  has  been  to  frighten 
some  people  and  disgust  others.  There  is  no  cause  for 
either,  and  certainly  it  is  criminal  not  to  inform  one's  self 
on  a  subject  that  has  such  a  power  over  our  lives. 

The  amount  of  knowledge  on  the  subject  necessary  for 
the  housekeeper  is  not  difficult  to  acquire.  There  are  several 
books  written  upon  it  that  come  within  the  comprehension 
of  the  most  unscientific  mind.  "The  Story  of  Bacteria," 
by  T.  Mitchell  Prudden,  and  "The  Story  of  Germ  Life,"  by 
Professor  H.  W.  Conn,  are  small  books  written  in  such  a 
simple,  clear  style  that  they  are  within  the  understanding 
of  a  child,  and  no  housekeeper  should  fail  to  include  them 
in  her  library.  The  information  they  contain  is  presented 
in  such  an  attractive  form  that  it  should  mean,  in  the  future, 
better  conditions  for  the  health  and  happiness  of  the  home. 
"The  Principles  of  Bacteriology,"  by  A.  C.  Abbott,  is  also 
a  useful  book  for  those  desiring  to  study  more  of  the  subject. 
A  book  which  is  intended  for  the  farm  and  dairy,  "The 
Principles  of  Modern  Dairy  Practice,"  by  Gosta  Grotenfelt, 
translated  by  F.  W.  Woll,  is  full  of  information  for  the 
housekeeper.  It  is  very  clearly  and  simply  written,  and  is 
a  most  interesting  book. 

A  few  things  which  the  housekeeper  should  keep  in  mind, 


350  HOME  ECONOMICS 

in  regard  to  bacteria,  is  that  they  are  of  the  lowest  form  of 
vegetable  life,  and  so  small  that  they  can  only  be  seen  under 
a  strong  microscope  (hence  the  name  microbes);  that  they 
multiply  rapidly  under  proper  conditions,  dirt,  warmth,  and 
moisture  being  the  most  favorable,  and  that  only  a  very  high 
or  very  low  temperature,  or  certain  disinfectants,  can  kill 
them. 

From  the  foregoing  will  be  seen  the  necessity  for  thorough 
cleanliness,  ventilation,  light,  and  sunshine. 

HOUSEHOLD  ACCOUNTS,  AND  THE  DIVISION  OF  THE  INCOME 

There  is  no  greater  aid  to  economy  than  a  regular  system 
of  keeping  accounts,  and  a  proper  division  of  the  income. 
The  housekeeper  who  is  careless  in  these  matters  does  a 
great  injustice  to  herself  and  her  family.  When  a  woman 
knows  how  much  money  she  may  have  to  spend  each  month, 
if  she  is  an  honest  woman  she  will  not  exceed  that  sum, 
except  under  very  unusual  circumstances.  If  she  keeps  her 
household  accounts  regularly  she  will  see  where  every  cent 
goes,  and  if  she  has  made  a  mistake  one  month  she  will  not 
repeat  it  the  next. 

Cash-accounts  are  the  best.  There  is  nothing  more  de- 
ceptive or  extravagant  than  running  bills  at  the  various 
shops.  It  generally  means  an  expenditure  of  at  least  one 
third  more  than  when  you  pay  cash.  This  does  not  mean 
that  you  are  charged  for  more  than  you  purchased,  but  that 
you  ordered  more  carelessly  than  if  you  made  cash  payments. 

The  system  of  keeping  accounts  should  be  so  simple  and 
clear  that  it  need  not  be  a  burden.  There  are  on  the  market 
several  kinds  of  housekeeping-expense  books,  which  are  very 
good. 

The  question  of  the  division  of  the  income  is  one  that 
perplexes  a  great  number  of  people,  and  yet  I  do  not  see 
how  it  is  possible  to  make  a  general  rule  that  shall  cover 


MISCELLANEOUS  MATTER  351 

any  great  percentage  of  the  families  of  this  country.  Lo- 
cality, education,  and  manner  of  living  all  must  be  taken 
into  consideration,  rents  in  large  cities  being  at  least  three 
times  as  much  as  the  same  kinds  of  houses  would  cost  in  the 
country.  Much  of  the  food  and  fuel  in  the  country  cost 
much  less  than  in  the  city.  If  one  lives  some  distance  from 
the  business  center  in  the  city,  car-fares  are  quite  an  item. 
Shelter,  food,  fuel,  and  clothing  are  four  items  of  expense 
common  to  all  classes,  and  they  are  imperative.  The  number 
of  other  expenses  increase  or  diminish  with  the  mode  of  life. 
No  matter  how  simple  or  elaborate  the  style  of  living,  each 
housekeeper  should  make  up  her  mind  that  the  expenses 
shall  not  exceed  the  income.  To  do  this  there  must  be  a 
well-defined  plan  of  expenditure. 

Here  is  a  simple  and  good  system.     Have  a  set  of  envelops 
marked  thus: 


Rent. 

Groceries. 

Fuel. 

Milk. 

Light. 

Butter. 

Service. 

Eggs. 

Butcher. 

Replenishing. 

Vegetables  and  Fruit. 

Incidentals. 

Have  a  slip  of  paper  to  put  in  each  envelop,  on  which  may 
be  jotted  down  any  item  you  may  wish.  Then  decide  how 
much  can  go  into  each  envelop  for  the  weekly  or  monthly 
expenses,  as  the  case  may  be.  Put  that  amount  of  money 
in  each  envelop,  and  on  no  consideration  spend  more  than 
that  sum.  If  at  the  end  of  the  month  you  are  so  fortunate 
as  not  to  have  spent  all  you  put  aside  for  expenses,  put  this 
surplus  with  your  savings.  This  system  will  insure  your 
keeping  within  your  means,  at  least,  and  is,  of  course,  in- 
tended for  persons  with  limited  incomes. 

Each  month  there  should  be  something  saved  for  sickness 


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or  reverses,  which  are  sure  to  come  sooner  or  later.  Even 
a  dollar  a  month  will  count  for  a  good  deal  at  the  end  of  a 
few  years.  If  there  must  be  great  economy,  let  it  be  in 
simplicity  of  living  and  dress.  Do  not  reduce  the  food  to 
the  smallest  amount  possible  for  existence.  Let  it  be  simple, 
but  well  cooked,  and  enough  of  it.  It  is  impossible  to  have 
physical,  mental,  or  moral  energy  on  improper  or  insufficient 
food. 

Economies  in  the  home  should  mean,  above  all  things, 
that  the  most  precious  thing  in  it— the  mother— shall  not 
be  misused  or  wasted.  She  should  not  be  burdened  with 
the  problem  of  living  in  a  style  beyond  her  means,  with  the 
result  of  narrowing  her  life  and  dwarfing  her  nature.  How 
much  better  to  live  simply  and  honestly,  growing  broader, 
sweeter,  and  happier  with  each  year  of  such  home  life! 
And  the  children  who  grow  in  such  an  honest  atmosphere 
must,  as  a  consequence,  be  better  men  and  women  than  if 
their  young  lives  had  been  poisoned  with  the  struggle  to 
live  in  a  style  which  the  family  income  does  not  warrant. 


CHAPTER  XVII 

SUPPLEMENTARY 
TO  CLEAN  TARNISHED  NICKEL  ON  STOVES 

Make  a  paste  of  powdered  pumice-stone  and  sweet  or  par- 
affine  oil.  Rub  the  nickel  with  this.  Polish  with  a  soft 
cloth.  Any  nickel  finish  may  be  polished  in  the  same 
manner. 

TO  KEEP  THE  RANGE  CLEAN  AND  BLACK 

Once  or  twice  a  week  wash  the  range  with  soap  and 
water  and  rub  dry.  Put  on  a  very  thin  coat  of  blacking 
and  when  nearly  dry  polish  with  a  stiff,  dry  brush.  If  the 
top  of  the  range  becomes  red  and  the  blacking  refuses  to 
stick  to  it,  when  cold  rub  a  light  coating  of  lard  over  it  and 
let  stand  for  several  hours,  then  black  and  polish  in  the 
usual  manner. 

TO  CLEAN  WROUGHT  IRON 

Make  a  woolen  cloth  damp  with  sweet  oil.  Rub  the 
wrought  iron  with  this,  then  polish  with  a  dry,  woolen  cloth. 

BRASS   CLEANER 

Mix  together  four  ounces  of  rotten-stone,  three  ounces  of 

353 


354  HOME  ECONOMICS 

paraffine  or  sweet  oil,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  a  solution  of 
oxalic  acid,  and  one  pint  of  water.  Beat  until  smooth, 
then  bottle. 

BEAN  WATER  FOR  CLEANING  BRASS 

Water  in  which  dried  beans  have  been  boiled  will  clean 
brass  articles  quickly  and  easily.  Put  the  articles  to  be 
cleaned  in  a  kettle  and  cover  with  strained,  hot  bean  water. 
Boil  ten  minutes,  then  rinse  quickly  in  clear,  hot  water. 
Rub  dry  with  a  soft  cloth.  The  articles  must  be  entirely 
covered  with  the  bean  water.  This  method  is  particularly 
good  for  small  articles  like  candle  sticks,  lamp  burners,  etc. 

STAINS  FROM  MARBLE,  ENAMEL  AND  PORCELAIN 

Brown  stains  that  come  on  bath  tubs,  basins,  etc.,  may  be 
removed  with  powdered  pumice-stone.  Wet  a  cloth  with 
soap  suds.  Put  a  little  powdered  pumice-stone  on  the  cloth 
and  rub  the  stained  spot  and  the  stain  will  disappear  in  an 
instant. 

HARD   OIL  FROM  WINDOW  GLASS 

This  stain  resists  almost  every  agent  except  powdered 
pumice-stone,  which  removes  it  readily. 

TO  REMOVE  PAINT  OR  VARNISH  FROM  WINDOW  GLASS 

Wet  the  paint  spots  with  turpentine,  liquid  ammonia,  or 
liquid  soda.  Repeat  the  wetting  until  the  paint  or  varnish 
begins  to  soften.  Now  scrape  gently  with  a  piece  of  soft 
wood  or  a  copper  cent,  then  rub  with  a  piece  of  paper  wet 
with  the  cleaning  fluid.  Be  careful  not  to  get  the  soda  or 
ammonia  on  the  paint  or  varnish  of  the  window  frame. 


SUPPLEMENTARY  355 

GLUE  ON  FABRICS  OR  FURNITURE 

Vinegar  is  a  solvent  for  all  fish  glue.  When  gluing  a 
piece  of  wood  work,  if  any  particles  of  glue  get  on  places 
where  it  is  not  desired,  wet  a  bit  of  cloth  with  vinegar  and 
rub  it  off.  If  glue  gets  on  clothing  or  other  fabrics  sponge 
with  a  cloth  wet  with  vinegar.  To  soften  old  glue  on  wood- 
work or  fabrics  wet  with  vinegar  and  when  softened  wipe 
off  with  cloths  wet  with  vinegar. 

HOW  TO  TREAT  A  SOAPSTONE  GRIDDLE 

A  soapstone  griddle  can  be  used  without  greasing.  Scour 
it  thoroughly  with  pumice-stone  and  soap  and  water  and 
you  will  have  no  trouble. 

PASTE  FOR  CLEANING  SILVER 

Dissolve  one  ounce  of  powdered  borax  in  half  a  pint  of 
boiling  water;  when  the  liquid  is  cold  pour  it  on  four 
ounces  of  precipitated  chalk  and  beat  until  smooth.  Add 
one  gill  of  alcohol,  and  bottle.    Shake  well  before  using. 

RUST  ON  GAS  STOVES 

Rust  on  the  oven  and  broiler  of  a  gas  stove  is  caused  by 
I  the  steam  from  the  food,  which  condenses  on  the  metal  as 
it  cools.  About  once  in  ten  days  or  two  weeks  rub  the  en- 
tire surface  of  the  baking  and  broiling  ovens  with  a  cloth 
j  wet  with  kerosene.  Do  this  at  night,  and  by  morning  nearly 
'  all  the  odor  will  have  disappeared.  The  heat  will  drive  off 
I  what  little  remains. 

TO  CLEAN  STAINED  ENAMELED  UTENSILS 

You  can  keep  your  enameled  ware  almost  as  fresh  and 
bright  as  new  by  the  use  of  soda.    If  a  saucepan  becomes 


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discolored  or  burned  do  not  scrape  with  a  knife  or  any 
hard  substance  which  would  scratch  or  break  the  enamel. 
Fill  the  saucepan  with  water  and  place  on  the  range.  Add 
a  tablespoonful  of  sal-soda  for  every  quart  of  water.  Let 
the  saucepan  remain  on  the  back  of  the  range  nearly  a  day. 
The  hot  soda-water  can  be  poured  into  the  sink  or  it  may 
be  bottled  for  use  again. 

RUST  ON  NICKEL  PLATE 

Cover  the  rust  spots  with  mutton  fat  and  let  it  remain  a 
few  days,  then  rub  with  powdered  rotten-stone  or  tripoli  and 
oil.     Give  the  final  polish  with  whiting  and  oil. 

TO  REMOVE  FLY  SPECKS  FROM  GILT  FRAMES,  ETC. 

Dissolve  one  ounce  of  pure  borax  in  a  pint  of  boiling 
water.  When  cold  sponge  the  soiled  places  with  the  liquid. 
Use  only  enough  moisture  to  wet  the  spots.  Repeat  this 
several  times,  and  then  rub  gently  with  a  soft  cloth  made 
damp  with  the  solution  of  borax. 

TO  CLEAN  AN  OIL  PAINTING 

Fold  a  soft  cloth  and  wring  out  of  tepid  water.  Spread 
the  wet  cloth  over  the  picture  and  let  it  rest  for  about  half 
an  hour.  Remove  the  wet  cloth  and  wipe  the  picture  with 
a  soft,  damp  cloth,  then  with  a  soft,  dry  cloth.  This  will 
generally  remove  all  fly  specks  and  dust. 

TO   CLEAN  GLASS  BOTTLES 

By  any  one  of  the  following  methods:  Crush  some  egg- 
shells and  put  them  into  the  bottles  with  hot  suds;  shake 
vigorously,  turn  out  the  suds  and  rinse  with  cold  water. 
Another  way  consists  of  dissolving  a  tablespoonful  of  wash- 


SUPPLEMENTARY  357 

ing  soda  in  a  pint  of  water,  and,  when  the  mixture  has  par- 
tially cooled,  pouring  it  into  the  bottles;  then  tearing  some 
soft  paper  into  bits  and  putting  them  into  the  bottles  to 
stand  an  hour  or  more,  and  finally  shaking  vigorously,  emp- 
tying and  rinsing  in  cold  water.  A  third  method  is  to  cut 
up  raw  potatoes,  put  them  into  the  bottles  with  cold  water 
and  let  rest  for  a  few  days;  then  shake  well,  empty  and 
rinse.  To  clean  the  bottles  quickly  put  about  a  gill  of 
water  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  household  ammonia  into 
them,  and,  after  shaking  well  and  emptying,  rinse  with 
clean  water.  Here  is  still  another  way:  Put  a  gill  of  cold 
water  into  a  bottle,  then  pour  in,  very  slowly,  about  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  sulphuric  acid.  This  will  make  the  water 
hot;  let  this  stand  a  while,  then  shake  well,  empty,  and 
rinse.  The  bottles  may  be  cleaned  more  quickly  by  this 
process  than  by  the  other  methods.  The  acid  will  also 
remove  stains  when  soap  and  water  will  not.  Carafes, 
either  of  cut  or  pressed  glass,  may  be  cleaned  in  the  same  way. 

TO  CLEAN  HAIR  BRUSHES 

Hair  brushes  may  be  cleaned  with  borax,  ammonia  or 
soda;  borax  is  possibly  the  best.  Dissolve  the  borax  in 
boiling  water  and  add  cold  water  to  the  liquid.  Allow  one 
tablespoonful  of  borax  to  one  quart  of  water.  Have  the 
brushes  free  from  dust  and  put  them  in  a  washbowl  with 
enough  of  the  borax  water  to  cover  the  bristles.  Soak  ten 
minutes,  then  sop  well  in  the  water,  being  careful  not  to 
wet  the  tops  of  the  brushes.  Rinse  in  plenty  of  cold  water 
and  dry  in  a  current  of  air.  Do  not  have  the  water  hot  and 
do  not  dry  in  the  heat. 

TO  REMOVE  RUST  FROM  MATTING 

Rust  Stains  on  matting  may  be  removed  in  this  manner: 
Have  ready  some  muriatic  acid,  a  hot  iron,  dry  cloths,  an 


358  HOME  ECONOMICS 

old  nail-brush,  a  sponge,  a  bowlful  of  boiling  water  and  two 
pailfuls  of  clean  cold  water.  Cover  the  spot  with  paper  and 
place  the  hot  iron  on  this.  When  the  matting  is  hot  dip 
a  glass  rod  or  stick  in  the  acid  and  touch  the  stain;  it  will 
instantly  turn  to  a  bright  yellow.  Wash  quickly  with  the 
boiling  water,  using  the  nail  brush;  then  with  the  clear 
water,  using  the  sponge;  wipe  dry.  The  work  must  be  done 
quickly  and  all  the  acid  removed  from  the  matting  by 
repeated  sponging  with  clean  water.  I  always,  when  pos- 
sible, heat  the  stain,  as  the  acid  acts  more  quickly  on  a  hot 
than  on  a  cold  substance. 

TO  ERADICATE  INK  STAINS 

Yes,  there  are  chemicals  that  will  remove  stains  made  by 
nearly  all  kinds  of  writing-ink.  I  am  rather  reluctant  to 
give  this  process  because  the  average  person  is  not  careful 
to  follow  directions,  and  it  is  important  in  this  case  that  the 
directions  should  be  followed  exactly.  I  have  used  the  pro- 
cess successfully  on  paper,  books,  white  goods,  carpets,  and 
on  the  green  felt  of  my  writing-desk.  The  chemicals  are 
apt  to  change  or  remove  the  colors  in  colored  cotton  goods. 
Here  is  the  rule:  Dissolve  four  ounces  of  bicarbonate  of 
soda  in  half  a  pint  of  boiling  water;  add  an  ounce  of  chlo- 
ride of  lime;  stir  until  nearly  all  the  lime  is  dissolved,  then 
cover  and  let  the  liquid  settle.  Strain  through  cheese- 
cloth into  a  bottle.  This  is  Javelle  water.  Cork  tight  and 
keep  in  a  box,  as  exposure  to  light  is  injurious  to  it. 

Get  at  a  druggist's  two  glass  stirring-rods,  and  four 
ounces  of  acetic  acid. 

When  you  wish  to  remove  an  ink  stain,  put  on  the  table 
a  large  plate,  the  glass  stirring-rods,  and  a  small  quantity 
of  each  chemical  in  two  separate  bottles.  Spread  the  stain 
on  the  plate;  dip  a  glass  rod  in  the  acetic  acid  and  rub  the 
stain  gently  until  moistened.    Dip  the  other  rod  in  the 


SUPPLEMENTARY  359 

Javelle  water  and  rub  on  the  stain.  Wait  a  few  seconds 
and  repeat  the  application  of  Javelle  water  if  the  stain  does 
not  disappear.  When  the  ink  is  removed  go  over  the  spot 
with  the  rod  wet  with  acetic  acid.  This  is  to  neutralize 
the  Javelle  water.  I  should  rinse  wash  goods  in  clear 
water. 

You  can  purchase  the  Javelle  water  at  a  druggists,  or 
you  can  buy  for  twenty-five  cents  a  small,  ink-eradicating 
outfit.     It  is  virtually  what  I  have  given  here. 

CEMENTS  FOR  MENDING  CHINA  AND  CROCKERY 

Expensive  articles  are  sometimes  mended  by  riveting  the 
pieces  together,  but  it  is  difficult  to  get  a  cement  that  will 
resist  long  exposure  to  water.  Articles  that  are  mended 
with  pure  white  lead,  or  with  a  mixture  of  powdered  as- 
bestos and  water-glass,  will  hold  together  if  washed  with 
care— that  is,  washed  and  wiped  quickly.  Articles  mended 
in  this  manner  will  not  bear  soaking  in  water.  Rub  a  thin 
coat  of  the  best  white  lead  on  the  broken  edges,  then  press 
together  and  tie  in  position  with  bands  of  cloth.  Keep  the 
articles  in  a  dry  place  for  six  weeks  before  using. 

ASBESTOS  AND  SILICATE  OP  SODA 

Mix  together  enough  powdered  asbestos  and  silicate  of 
soda  (liquid  glass)  to  make  a  thick  paste.  Put  a  thin  coat- 
ing of  this  on  the  broken  edges  of  the  article  to  be  mended, 
and  press  together.  The  parts  must  be  held  together  firmly 
for  at  least  an  hour.     When  possible  use  a  rubber  band. 

TO  PREPARE  WHITEWASHED  OR  CALCIMINED  WALLS  FOR 
PAPERING 

Brush  the  walls  with  weak  vinegar  and  when  dry  brush 
off  the  loose  lime. 


360  *      HOME  ECONOMICS 


POUNDING  IN  WATER-PIPES 

The  pounding  so  frequently  heard  in  the  kitchen  boiler 
and  pipes,  as  a  rule,  comes  from  one  of  two  causes.  The; 
water  is  raised  to  so  high  a  temperature  that  some  of  it  is  j 
changed  to  steam.  All  that  is  necessary  in  this  case  is  to 
open  the  faucets  and  let  water  and  steam  pass  off.  Thei 
second  cause,  and  one  which  is  not  so  frequent,  is  an  ac- 
cumulation of  dirt  in  the  pipes  of  the  water-back.  In  this 
case  all  that  is  necessary  is  for  the  plumber  to  disconnect 
the  pipes  and  blow  the  dirt  out. 

WHEN  IT  IS  NECESSARY  TO  BOIL  DRINKING  WATER 

The  following  is  a  physician's  rule  for  boiling  and  aerating 
drinking-water.  Boil  the  water  for  fifteen  or  twenty  min- 
utes, then  pour  it  into  a  stone  jar  and  cover  it  with  a  piece 
of  cheese-cloth.  Let  it  stand  in  a  cool  place  for  twelve  or 
more  hours,  then  put  it  into  beer  bottles  having  patent 
stoppers,  and  place  on  the  cellar  floor  or  in  the  refrigerator. 
Water  prepared  in  this  manner  is  bright  and  palatable. 
The  stone  jar,  bottles  and  cheese-cloth  must  be  thoroughly 
washed,  scalded  and  dried  each  time  they  are  used. 

METHODS  OF  CLEANING  LACE 

"  How  shall  I  clean  my  lace,"  is  a  question  that  is  fre- 
quently asked.  In  answer  to  these  constant  inquiries,  here 
are  some  methods  that  I  have  used  successfully.  It  must 
be  remembered  that  no  matter  what  the  process  of  clean- 
ing may  be,  three  things  are  necessary  to  success  :  care, 
patience  and  time.  With  these  three  things  a  good  lace 
may  be  made  to  look  as  well  as  when  new.  While  it  would 
not  pay  one  to  follow  the  same  method  with  common  as 


SUPPLEMENTARY  361 

with  fine  laces,  still  it  always  pays  to  do  a  thing  properly. 
The  reader  will  use  her  own  judgment  in  selecting  the 
method  for  her  special  kind  of  lace. 

FRENCH  METHOD  OF  CLEANING  FINE  LACE 

Make  a  strong  suds  of  castile  or  any  pure  white  soap. 
Let  it  be  hardly  tepid.  Let  the  lace  soak  in  this  a  few 
hours.  If  possible  let  the  dish  stand  in  the  sun.  Sop  and 
squeeze  it  in  the  hands  until  the  dirt  starts  from  the  lace. 
Now  put  it  into  the  second  suds  and  treat  in  the  same  way, 
and  then  again  into  a  third  suds.  The  handling  must  be 
done  very  carefully  and  gently.  Next  rinse  in  clear  water. 
Examine  and  see  if  it  is  perfectly  clean  and  let  it  stand  in 
clear  water  until  you  are  ready  to  spread  it  on  your  board. 
Have  the  board  covered  with  a  clean  piece  of  white  flannel. 
It  wants  to  be  stretched  perfectly  smooth  and  tight.  If  the 
piece  of  lace  is  very  long,  of  course  you  will  require  a  long 
board  or  table.  The  flannel  better  be  tacked  on  the  board 
to  make  it  perfectly  smooth  and  tight.  Now  squeeze  the 
water  from  the  lace,  and  put  it  through  a  water  with  very 
little  bluing. 

If  you  want  to  get  the  old  gray  look  that  the  point  laces 
usually  have,  add  to  this  bluing  water  a  drop  or  two  of  black 
ink.  Be  careful  not  to  get  too  much,  only  a  suggestion. 
Try  a  piece  of  some  white  fabric  in  it  before  you  put  the 
lace  in.  Now  squeeze  the  lace  from  this,  spread  on  your 
board,  and  with  a  long  pin  or  needle  pick  out  every  point  or 
loop,  fastening  each  point  with  a  small  pin.  Just  press  the 
pin  through  into  the  board  to  hold  it.  Let  it  dry  in  the 
sun.  If  you  would  like  a  little  stiffening  in  the  lace,  make 
the  thinnest  kind  of  starch,  using  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  dry  starch 
to  a  quart  of  water.  While  this  is  still  boiling  add  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  white  gum  arabic  which  has  been  soaked  in 
two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water  for  a  few  hours. 


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Strain  this,  put  a  little  in  a  saucer.  Have  two  clean  sponges." 
Dip  one  into  the  starch.  Be  sure  not  to  have  enough  of  the 
starch  to  drop  from  it,  pass  lightly  over  the  lace  and  wipe 
at  once  with  the  dry  sponge,  so  that  the  starch  may  not 
pass  through  to  the  flannel.  Do  only  a  little  bit  at  a  time 
and  let  dry  again  in  the  sun,  and  when  dry  take  off  care- 
fully and  fold  or  roll  as  you  may  think  best. 

WASHING  FINE  LACES 

Have  a  strip  of  flannel,  on  which  baste  the  lace,  using 
care  to  have  every  point  basted  down  smoothly.  Make  a 
strong  suds  of  white  soap  and  water,  Dissolve  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  borax  in  half  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  and  add 
it  to  two  quarts  of  the  suds.  When  this  liquid  is  tepid  lay 
the  lace  in  it  and  let  it  soak  for  ten  hours  or  more.  Then 
sop  and  squeeze  the  flannel,  but  do  the  work  carefully  and 
gently ;  then  squeeze  out  all  the  suds  and  drop  the  flannel 
in  a  bowl  of  hot  suds.  Work  gently  in  this  water.  Now 
rinse  in  fresh  water  until  the  water  looks  clear.  Finally 
starch  and  squeeze  as  dry  as  possible.  Tack  the  flannel  on 
a  clean  board,  drawing  it  very  tight  in  all  directions.  See 
that  every  part  of  the  lace  lies  smooth  and  that  all  the 
meshes  are  open.  When  dry  cut  the  basting  threads  and 
draw  them  out  very  gently.  The  lace  may  be  tinted  in  the 
last  rinsing  water  if  the  dead  white  is  not  liked.  If  the  lace 
is  point  or  any  of  the  laces  with  raised  designs,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  lift  the  raised  work  with  a  small  pointed  in- 
strument ;  a  toothpick  may  be  used. 

CLEANING  COMMON  LACES 

Make  the  suds  as  for  fine  laces  and  let  the  lace  soak  in 
this  for  ten  hours  or  more;  then  rub  gently  between  the 
palms  of  the  hands.    Wash  in  a  second  suds  in  the  same 


SUPPLEMENTARY  363 

manner,  then  rinse  until  the  water  is  clear.  If  the  lace  is 
to  be  tinted,  do  it  now,  then  starch.  Have  a  flannel  tacked 
tightly  on  a  board;  spread  the  lace  on  this  and  pin  to  the 
flannel.  Be  sure  that  the  lace  is  drawn  out  properly  and 
that  each  point  is  fastened  to  the  flannel  with  a  pin.  Or, 
the  wet  lace  may  be  drawn  out  perfectly  smooth,  covered 
with  a  piece  of  cheesecloth,  and  ironed  with  a  moderately 
hot  iron  until  quite  dry. 

STARCH  FOR  LACES 

Mix  one  teaspoonful  of  starch  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
cold  water  and  pour  on  this  one  pint  of  boiling  water. 
Place  on  the  fire  and  add  one  fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
sugar,  and  one  fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  gum-arabic 
which  has  been  soaked  in  one  tablespoonful  of  cold  water. 
Boil  for  five  minutes,  stirring  all  the  while.  Strain  through 
cheesecloth.  For  laces  in  which  only  a  suggestion  of  starch 
is  required  double  the  quantity  of  water.  For  heavy  laces 
that  are  required  to  be  rather  stiff  use  only  half  the  quan- 
tity of  water. 

GUM-ARABIC   STARCH 

Gum-arabic  starch  is  made  by  putting  one  fourth  of  an 
ounce  of  the  best  white  gum-arabic  in  a  cup  or  wide- 
mouthed  bottle  with  one  gill  of  cold  water.  Let  it  soak  for 
two  or  three  hours,  then  place  in  a  basin  of  cold  water  and 
put  on  the  fire  to  dissolve.  Stir  frequently;  strain  through 
cheesecloth.  This  makes  a  very  stiff  starch.  For  articles 
that  need  to  be  only  slightly  stiffened  a  quart  of  water  or 
even  more  may  be  added  to  the  dissolved  gum-arabic. 

TINTING  LACE 

To  give  thread  lace  a  soft,  old  look  pass  it  through  water 
that  has  been  slightly  blued  and  to  which  has  been  added  a 


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little  black  ink— one  drop  of  ink  for  every  half  pint  of 
water.  For  an  ecru  tint  use  tea,  coffee  or  saffron.  Make 
the  tinting  fluid  fairly  strong  and  try  a  corner  of  the  lace 
in  it;  if  too  strong  add  water.  To  my  mind,  tea  is  the 
most  satisfactory  agent,  but  it  does  not  give  as  yellow  a  tint 
as  coffee  or  saffron. 

CLEANING  LACES  WITH  GASOLINE  OR  NAPHTHA 

Put  the  laces  in  a  bowl  and  cover  with  naphtha.  Let 
them  soak  for  an  hour,  then  wash  by  sopping  and  rubbing 
between  the  palms  of  the  hands.  Rinse  the  lace  in  a  second 
bowl  of  naphtha,  then  pull  it  into  shape.  The  texture  of 
the  lace  is  not  changed  in  the  least  by  this  method  of 
cleaning.  If  you  want  to  stiffen  it  dip  it  in  a  thin  solution 
of  gum-arabic,  pin  it  to  a  covered  board  and  let  it  dry. 
There  must  be  neither  fire  nor  light  in  the  room  when  the 
lace  is  being  washed  with  the  naphtha,  and  the  windows 
must  be  open 

CLEANING  LACE  WITH  ABSORBENTS 

Mix  together  equal  quantities  of  cream  of  tartar,  mag- 
nesia and  powdered  French  chalk.  Spread  the  lace  on  a 
piece  of  cloth  and  sprinkle  it  thickly  with  the  mixture  and 
roll  up.  Let  the  lace  lie  in  this  for  a  week  or  ten  days, 
then  shake  off  the  cleaning  mixture.  With  a  soft  clean 
cloth  wipe  the  lace.  This  method  will  only  answer  for  laces 
that  are  not  much  soiled. 

TO  REMOVE  YELLOW    SPOTS  FROM  OLD  LACES 

Wet  the  lace  and  spread  it  where  it  will  freeze.  Or 
make  very  wet  and  spread  it  in  the  hot  sun.  In  either  case 
the  lace  may  require  several  days  to  bleach  and  it  must  be 
kept  wet  all  the  time, 


SUPPLEMENTARY  365 


GRASS  STAINS 

When  all  other  remedies  fail,  grass  and  other  green 
stains  may  be  removed  with  grease.  Rub  lard  on  the  stain, 
then  wash  with  soap  and  cold  water.  Finish  washing  in 
the  usual  manner. 

PEACH  STAINS 

When  boiling  water  will  not  remove  peach  stains  soak 
the  stain  in  a  solution  of  oxalic  acid  for  five  minutes,  then 
rinse  thoroughly  in  several  clear  waters.  Hang  the  article 
out  of  doors  in  the  sun  and  the  stain  will  disappear  in 
an  hour  or  two.  This  treatment  is  only  for  white  wash- 
goods. 

BLUE  STAINS  FROM  BLUING,  ETC. 

Wash  the  stain  with  alcohol  and  it  will  disappear. 

EASY  METHOD  OF  REMOVING  SPOTS  FROM  GARMENTS 

With  the  aid  of  a  small  nail  or  tooth  brush  nearly  all 
kinds  of  spots  may  be  removed  with  ease  from  garments, 
etc. 

Put  some  folded  cheesecloth  under  the  stain.  Wet  the 
brush  in  the  cleaning  substance  and  rub  the  stain  gently 
with  it.  Repeat  until  the  spot  is  clean,  then  pat  the  spot 
with  some  dry  cheesecloth.  Take  up  on  the  brush  only  a 
little  liquid  at  a  time.  On  wash-goods  for  ordinary  dirt  use 
clear,  cold  water  at  first,  then  follow  with  white  soap  and 
hot  water  For  oil  or  grease  of  any  kind  use  cold  water  and 
soap  at  first.  Finish,  if  necessary,  with  hot  water.  On 
goods  that  are  not  washable  use  naphtha,  gasoline,  or  fresh, 


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clear  turpentine.     For  delicate  colors  use   chloroform   or 
ether.     For  other  methods  see  stains  on  fabrics,  page  300. 

DO  NOT  USE  STRONG  ALKALIES   IN  LAUNDERING  WOOLENS 

Alkalies,  like  soda  and  potash,  even  when  very  dilute, 
have  a  tendency  to  dissolve,  and  gelatinize  wool  fiber  and 
should  not  be  employed  in  washing  woolens.  Ammonia 
softens  and  cleanses  wool,  but  it  is  better  for  colored  than 
white  garments,  as  it  has  a  tendency  to  make  white  flannels 
yellow.    Borax  softens,  whitens  and  cleanpes  woolens. 

TO  WASH  FEATHER  PILLOWS 

Dissolve  one  pound  of  sal-soda  and  half  a  pound  of  soap 
in  two  quarts  of  boiling  water.  Pour  this  into  a  tub  with 
six  pailf uls  of  warm  water.  Dissolve  half  a  pound  of  chlor- 
ide of  lime  in  a  quart  of  boiling  water.  Let  it  settle,  then 
stir  into  the  tub  of  soda  water.  Have  the  pillows  well 
beaten  and  then  put  them  into  the  tub,  pressing  them  down 
with  a  wooden  stick.  Soak  them  for  one  hour,  working  the 
solution  through  them  by  means  of  a  stick.  Rinse  in  sev- 
eral waters.  Press  as  free  as  possible  from  water.  Hang 
on  the  line.  Turn  and  shake  frequently.  Select  a  bright 
windy  day  for  this  work. 

TO  DEODORIZE  AND  RENOVATE  FEATHERS 

Put  the  feathers  in  a  large  bag  of  white  mosquito  netting 
and  soak  them  for  two  hours  in  chloride  of  lime  water,  then 
rinse  in  several  waters  and  dry  in  the  open  air.  The 
feathers  must  be  put  loosely,  in  the  bag  and  the  bag  shaken 
frequently  while  they  are  drying.  Allow  half  a  pound  of 
chloride  of  lime  to  eight  pailfuls  of  water,  and  be  sure  that 
all  the  lime  is  dissolved. 


SUPPLEMENTARY  367 


TO  CURE  FEATHERS 

To  cure  feathers,  dissolve  two  pounds  of  quicklime  in  two 
gallons  of  water.  Let  the  mixture  settle,  then  pour  off  the 
clear  liquid.  Soak  the  feathers  in  this  for  four  days,  then 
rinse  in  several  clean  waters  and  dry. 

TO  CLEAN  LIGHT  AND  DARK  FURS 

For  light  furs,  mix  together  a  pint  of  flour,  a  pint  of 
bran  and  a  tablespoonf ul  of  fullers'  earth.  Brush  and  shake 
the  furs  ;  then  lay  them  on  a  table  and  rub  with  the  above 
mixture,  using  a  coarse  piece  of  flannel,  and  rubbing  the 
wrong  way  of  the  fur.  Shake  out  all  the  cleaning  material 
and  go  over  the  fur  again  in  the  same  way,  using  only  bran 
this  time.  Shake  out  the  bran  and  wipe  the  fur  with 
cheesecloth.  Dark  furs  are  cleaned  in  the  same  way,  save 
that  hot  bran  alone  is  used.  Heat  the  bran  in  a  double 
boiler,  or  it  may  be  heated  in  the  oven. 

TO  DRY  CLEAN  WHITE  KID 

Belts,  shoes,  gloves,  etc.,  of  white  kid  may  be  cleaned  in 
the  following  manner :  Mix  together  equal  quantities  of 
finely  powdered  alum  and  pipe  clay  or  fullers'  earth.  Dip  a 
piece  of  flannel  in  the  dry  powder  and  rub  the  soiled  kid 
with  it.  When  thoroughly  cleaned  brush  with  a  piece  of 
clean  flannel,  and  then  rub  the  kid  with  bran  to  remove  all 
the  earth  and  alum.    Wipe  with  a  soft  clean  cloth. 

TO  LAUNDER  SILKS,  PONGEES,  AND  SILK  EMBROIDERIES 

Make  a  strong  suds  with  a  mild  white  soap.  Have  a 
weak  suds  in  a  second  tub.    Wash  the  articles  in  the  strong 


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suds,  using  the  hands  for  rubbing.  Wash  again  in  the  weak 
suds,  and  then  rinse  in  plenty  of  clear  cold  water.  Press 
the  water  from  the  silk,  but  do  not  wring.  Shake  out  the 
wrinkles,  then  spread  on  clean  sheets  and  roll  tight.  The 
water  for  washing  silk  must  never  be  more  than  tepid.  This 
treatment  is  for  pongees,  white  and  light-colored  silks.  If 
the  white  silks  are  very  much  soiled  add  a  little  dissolved 
borax  to  the  first  washing  water.  To  iron,  place  a  piece  of 
cheesecloth  between  the  silk  and  the  iron.  Do  not  use  a 
very  hot  iron.  Never  let  any  part  of  the  silk  dry  before 
ironing.  If  by  any  chance  it  should  become  dry,  roll  it  in  a 
wet  cloth  to  dampen  it.  Sprinkling  water  on  the  dry  silk 
is  apt  to  spot  it.  Silk  underwear  should  be  dried  on  the 
line  and  then  pressed  with  a  warm  iron. 

Silk  embroideries  should  be  pressed  on  the  wrong  side. 
The  iron  should  be  a  little  hotter  for  embroidery  than  for 
silk. 

THE  IRONING  OF  STARCHED  ARTICLES  MADE  EASY 

Dry  the  starched  articles  perfectly,  then  dip  them  rn  a 
pail  of  boiling  water  and  pass  them  through  the  wringer 
twice.  They  may  then  be  ironed  at  once,  or  they  may  be 
rolled  up  in  a  dry  cloth.  The  fabric  may  be  ironed  with 
greater  ease  after  being  dampened  in  this  way  than  when 
sprinkled  in  the  usual  manner. 

STARCH  LUSTER 

Soak,  for  six  hours,  one  ounce  of  the  best  white  gum- 
arabic  in  one  quart  of  water;  add  two  ounces  of  borax  and 
heat  to  the  boiling  point,  then  add  one  ounce  of  glycerine. 
Cool,  strain  and  bottle.  Stir  one  tablespoonful  of  this 
luster  into  three  quarts  of  starch  made  as  directed  above. 


SUPPLEMENTARY  369 


TO  CLEAN  CHAMOIS  GLOVES 


Make  a  strong  suds  with  white  castile  soap,  or  any  other 
kind  of  good  white  soap,  and  to  two  quarts  of  suds  add  one 
teaspoonful  of  borax  dissolved  in  half  a  pint  of  hot  water. 
When  the  suds  are  cold,  put  the  gloves  on  the  hands  and 
wash  them  slowly  and  gently,  as  if  washing  the  hands. 
Rinse  in  the  same  manner  in  clear  water;  then  draw  off 
gently  and  hang  in  a  shady  place  to  dry,  drawing  them  into 
shape  when  they  are  almost  dry.  When  perfectly  dry,  rub 
them  between  the  hands  to  soften  them.  When  the 
chamois  is  wet  it  is  tenderer  than  when  dry,  so  it  is  impor- 
tant that  the  work  be  done  gently. 


TO  RENOVATE  CRAPE 

A  large  piece  of  black  crape  or  a  veil  will  require  great 
care  that  it  may  not  be  drawn  out  of  shape.  Tack  several 
thicknesses  of  dark  flannel  smoothly  and  firmly  on  a  board. 
Spread  on  this  board  as  much  of  the  crape  as  will  lie 
smoothly.  Pin  the  edges  to  the  flannel.  Wring  a  large 
crash  towel  out  of  water,  being  careful  not  to  make  it  too 
dry,  and  spread  it  over  the  crape.  Have  two  or  three  very 
hot  irons;  go  over  the  towel  with  an  iron,  being  careful  not 
to  let  the  weight  rest  on  the  crape.  Change  the  iron  as 
often  as  it  is  necessary  to  have  it  very  hot  to  produce 
steam.  When  one  part  of  the  crape  is  finished  move  it 
along  and  treat  the  next  section  in  the  same  manner,  pin- 
ning and  covering  with  the  wet  towel  as  before.  When 
every  part  has  been  steamed  lay  the  crape  on  a  flat  surface 
and  in  a  dry  atmosphere  for  ten  or  twelve  hours.  When 
perfectly  dry  it  will  be  ready  to  use. 

24 


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TO  SET  COLORS  IN    COTTON    FABRICS 

Sugar  of  lead,  I  think,  is  the  best  all  round  mordant.  Pre- 
pare by  dissolving  one  ounce  of  sugar  of  lead  in  eight  quarts 
of  water.  Soak  the  article  over  night  in  this  liquid.  In 
experiments  with  the  sugar  of  lead  solution  I  found  it 
darkened  reds  and  yellows,  lightened  greens,  and  deepened 
blues  slightly.  Remember  that  sugar  of  lead  is  a  poison. 
Do  not  leave  the  powder  or  solution  within  reach  of 
children.  When  you  have  finished  with  the  liquid  pour  it 
into  the  drain,  and  not  on  the  ground,  where  it  might  filter 
into  the  well. 

HOW    TO    REVIVE   COLORS  IN    COTTON  FABRICS 

For  several  years  I  have  been  making  experiments  with 
faded  fabrics.  The  results  have  been  unequal,  so  much 
depends  upon  the  dyes  and  other  conditions.  For  example, 
the  agent  that  will  revive  and  brighten  one  sample  of  red 
will  give  a  purplish  tinge  to  another.  Some  dark  blues 
were  brightened  while  other  samples  were  given  a  dull  or 
purplish  tinge.  Light  blues  were  sometimes  given  a 
greenish  tinge.  The  tendency  of  all  yellows  seemed  to  be 
toward  a  suggestion  of  brown,  no  matter  what  chemical  was 
used.  In  some  cases  this  was  so  slight  that  it  would  not  be 
observed  except  by  close  inspection.  Here  is  a  list  of  what 
seems  to  me  the  simplest  and  most  useful  revivers  the 
housekeeper  can  use.  Read  this  list  carefully  and  select 
the  agents  that  seem  the  most  desirable  for  the  colors  you 
wish  to  revive.  The  article  should  soak  for  an  hour  or 
more  in  the  reviver. 

Reds— Citric  acid  deepened  the  color  many  shades. 
Acetic  acid  slightly  darker  and  brighter. 


SUPPLEMENTARY  371 

Alum  deepened  and  dulled  the  color. 
Yellows— Alum  brightened  the  color. 

Acetic  acid,  lighter  and  brighter. 
Greens— Citric  acid  deepened  the  color  several  shades. 

Acetic  acid,  nearly  the  same  effect. 
Blues— Acetic  acid  deepened  and  brightened. 

Citric  acid,  several  shades  deeper  than  acetic. 

Sulphuric  acid  deepened  and  brightened  some  blues ;  to 
some  navy  blues  it  gave  a  purplish  tinge,  and  to  some 
light  blues  it  gave  a  greenish  tinge. 

The  proportions  used  were  as  follows : 

Alum— Four  tablespoonfuls  to  a  gallon  of  water. 

Acetic  Acid— Four  tablespoonfuls  to  a  gallon  of  water. 

Citric  Acid— One  ounce  of  the  crystals  to  a  gallon  of 
water. 

Sulphuric  Acid — Two  tablespoonfuls  to  a  gallon  of 
water. 

TO  WASH  ORIENTAL  RUGS 

Have  the  rugs  spread  face  down  on  the  grass  and  beat 
well.  Turn  them  over  and  sweep.  Now  spread  the  rugs, 
face  up,  on  a  clean  floor,  where  they  can  have  plenty  of  air, 
and  remain  until  dry. 

Dissolve  one  pound  of  Ivory  soap  in  two  quarts  of  boiling 
water.  Add  to  this  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  borax  dissolved 
in  two  quarts  of  boiling  water.  Stir  well  and  add  a  gallon 
of  cold  water.  Have  a  new  soft  scrubbing  brush,  plenty  of 
clean,  dry  cloths,  two  pails  of  clean  cold  water,  a  large 
sponge,  and  a  broad,  deep  pan.  Put  some  of  the  cleaning 
preparation  in  the  pan.  Dip  the  brush  in  the  mixture  and 
scrub  about  half  a  yard  of  the  rug.  Wash  off  with  the 
sponge  and  clear  water  until  perfectly  clean,  then  wipe  as 


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dry  as  possible  with  the  dry  cloths.  When  this  is  finished, 
clean  another  piece  of  the  rug,  and  continue  until  the  entire 
rug  is  finished.     Dry  in  the  sun. 

Any  rug  or  carpet  that  has  fast  colors  may  be  treated  in 
the  same  manner. 

TO   CLEAN  WITH    FULLERS'    EARTH 

Make  a  suds  with  a  good  white  soap  and  hot  water;  make 
this  the  consistency  of  thin  cream  with  fullers'  earth. 
Have  plenty  of  clean  drying  cloths,  a  small  scrubbing-brush, 
a  large  sponge  and  a  pail  of  fresh  water.  Put  some  of  the 
cleaning  mixture  in  a  bowl  and  dip  the  brush  in  it;  brush  a 
small  piece  of  the  carpet  with  this;  then  wash  with  the 
sponge  and  cold  water.  Dry  as  much  as  possible  with  the 
sponge,  and  finally  rub  with  dry  cloths.  Continue  this  till 
you  are  sure  that  all  the  carpet  is  clean;  then  let  it  dry, 

SOAP  FOR  CLEANING  CARPETS 

Dissolve  five  pounds  of  soap  in  three  quarts  of  water. 
Take  from  the  fire  and  add  a  half  pint  of  ox  gall,  two  ounces 
each  of  turpentine  and  benzine,  and  one  gill  of  household 
ammonia ;  stir  frequently  until  cool,  then  pour  into  glass 
jars  and  cover  tightly.  When  ready  to  clean  carpets  or 
other  fabrics  dissolve  some  of  the  soap  in  warm  water  and 
proceed  as  with  fullers'  earth  mixture  used  for  cleaning 
carpets.  Of  course,  it  is  understood  that  the  carpet  or 
fabrics  must  be  brushed  free  from  dust  before  the  cleaning 
begins. 

TO  RESTORE  THE  COLOR  TO  WORN  PLACES  IN  CARPETS 

Get  a  small  box  of  water-colors.  Select  a  color  to  match 
that  which  you  wish  to  restore.     If  you  have  not  the  right 


SUPPLEMENTARY  373 

shade  combine  colors  to  produce  it.     Use  enough  water  to 
make  the  coloring  liquid  very  thin.    Apply  with  a  brush. 

GREASE  SPOTS  ON  A  CARPET 

Cover  the  spots  with  fullers'  earth,  then  wet  with  tur- 
pentine. Cover  the  paste  with  paper.  In  two  days  remove 
paper  and  brush  off  the  dry  paste. 

MENDING  ON  THE  SEWING  MACHINE. 

There  are  few  busy  women  who  have  not  done  some  kinds 
of  mending  on  the  sewing-machine.  Pew,  however,  realize 
how  satisfactorily  many  kinds  of  darning  can  be  done. 

Points  to  Remember:  For  thin,  fine  material  use  fine 
thread;  for  coarse  material  the  thread  may  be  between 
eighty  and  sixty,  nothing  coarser.  When  darning  colored 
goods  let  the  cotton  or  silk  be  the  same  color  as  the  material 
to  be  darned.  Hold  the  work  smooth,  and  guide  it  the 
same  as  in  ordinary  stitching.  When  turning  the  work  be 
sure  that  the  needle  is  well  in  the  goods.  If  the  needle  is 
lifted  above  the  cloth  a  loop  of  thread  will  rest  on  the  darned 
surface.  For  thin  material  loosen  the  presser  foot  screw 
and  shorten  the  stitch;  for  heavy  material  do  not  loosen  the 
presser  foot.     Set  the  stitch  fairly  long. 

Darning  Household  Linen.  Loosen  the  presser  foot  screw, 
shorten  the  stitch,  thread  the  machine  with  fine  cotton  — 
about  one  hundred.  Put  the  thin,  frayed  or  torn  place  in 
position,  holding  it  smooth,  but  being  careful  not  to  draw  it. 
Begin  the  stitching  a  little  beyond  the  damaged  place.  For 
places  that  are  worn  thin  or  frayed  put  in  rows  of  stitching, 
close  together.  Cross  these  with  other  rows  of  stitching; 
this  will  give  a  smooth,  fine  texture.  If  there  are  decided 
holes  in  the  article  baste  a  piece  of  Brussels  net,  or  thin 
muslin,  on  the  wrong  side  and  darn  the  same  as  on  a  worn 


374  HOME  ECONOMICS 

surface.  If  it  is  a  slit  or  any  kind  of  a  tear  hold  the  edges 
together  as  you  guide  the  work,  and  stitch  back  and  forth, 
having  the  rows  of  stitching  wide  apart.  Cross  this  stitch- 
ing with  other  rows  a  little  closer.  If  the  mended  place  looks 
thin,  where  the  edges  are  brought  together,  put  two  or  three 
rows  of  stitching  up  and  down  the  length  of  the  rent. 

What  May  be  Done  with  Underwear.  Straight  tears  in 
underwear  may  be  mended  in  the  same  manner  as  tears  in 
sheets,  etc.  Torn  embroideries  can  be  held  together,  or,  if 
the  tears  are  large,  may  be  lightly  basted  and  then  darned 
the  same  as  household  linen.  Parts  of  garments  that  are 
worn  thin  can  have  a  piece  of  thin  muslin  basted  on  the 
worn  part,  and  then  be  stitched  over  until  the  article  is  as 
firm  as  when  new.  Cotton,  silk  and  woolen  undervests  and 
drawers  may  be  darned  the  same  as  table  linen,  but  great 
care  must  be  taken  to  keep  the  fabric  drawn  out  smooth. 
When  these  garments  are  worn  thin  at  the  knees  or  in  the 
seat,  a  piece  of  an  old  garment  of  the  same  kind  can  be 
basted  smooth  on  the  worn  place,  and  then  be  darned  over. 
If  the  old  garment  is  not  available  use  some  kind  of  net; 
for  white  or  cream  color,  Brussels  net  is  very  good. 

Stockings,  because  of  their  shape,  cannot  be  darned  in 
the  feet,  but  at  the  knees,  where  children  wear  them  so  rap- 
idly, and  near  the  top,  where  they  are  frequently  injured 
by  the  garters,  they  may  be  darned  neatly  and  quickly  on 
the  machine.  If  there  is  a  large  hole  baste  a  piece  of  net 
on  the  under  side,  and  then  darn  quickly  over  this. 

Men's,  Women's  and  Boys'  Cloth  Garments.  Tears  and 
worn  places  in  cloth  fabrics  can  be  darned  most  satisfac- 
torily on  the  sewing-machine.  Thread  the  machine  with 
silk  or  cotton  of  the  same  color  as  the  fabric.  Do  not  loosen 
the  presser  foot;  have  the  stitch  of  moderate  length;  darn 
the  same  as  household  linen,  but  the  rows  of  stitching  must 
be  very  close.  Where  the  fabric  is  worn  thin  baste  a  piece 
of  the  same  kind  of  goods  on  the  wrong  side,  and  darn  over 


SUPPLEMENTARY  375 

it.  If  there  is  none  of  the  same  material  a  piece  of  net  or 
muslin  will  answer.  If  the  colors  in  the  fabric  are  mixed 
have  the  upper  thread  of  the  machine  of  the  most  pro- 
nounced color  and  the  under  thread  of  the  minor  color. 

CARE  OF  THE  HANDS 

Housework  is  rather  hard  on  the  hands,  but  there  are 
some  precautions  which,  if  taken,  will  add  greatly  to  the 
comfort  of  the  worker  and  the  appearance  of  the  hands. 
Among  the  things  which  roughen  and  blacken  the  hands, 
the  most  important  are  dust,  soap,  fruit,  vegetables,  and 
neglect  to  properly  dry  the  hands.  Wash  all  vegetables 
before  paring.  When  the  hands  are  stained  by  fruit  or 
vegetables  be  sure  to  remove  the  stains  before  the  hands 
come  in  contact  with  soap  or  soapy  water.  Remove  the 
stains  with  an  acid,  such  as  lemon,  vinegar  or  sour  milk,  then 
wash  in  clear  water.  When  using  soap  and  water  for  any 
purpose,  be  sure  to  rinse  off  all  the  soap  before  wiping  the 
hands.  Always  wipe  the  hands  perfectly  dry.  Do  not 
change  soaps  if  you  can  avoid  it,  and  always  use  a  good 
soap.  When  sweeping  and  dusting,  wear  loose-fitting  gloves. 
Have  a  pair  of  rubber  gloves  for  use  when  it  is  necessary 
to  have  the  hands  in  water  a  great  deal.  Grease  spoils 
rubber,  therefore  the  gloves  must  be  washed  perfectly  clean 
as  soon  as  the  work  is  finished  A  little  bran  and  milk  or 
vinegar  will  make  the  hands  clean  and  smooth  after  dish- 
washing or  any  other  work  that  roughens  them.  With  a 
little  practice  one  can  wash  dishes  as  well  and  as  quickly 
with  a  dish-mop  as  with  a  cloth  and  the  hands.  There 
should  be  two  mops,  one  for  the  tableware  and  one  for  the 
cooking-dishes.  For  washing  floors  have  a  self-wringing 
mop.  To  soften  and  whiten  the  hands  use  some  sort  of 
cream  on  them  at  night,  then  powder  them  with  corn-starch, 
and  put  them  in  loose  gloves  kept  for  this  purpose. 


376  HOME  ECONOMICS 


PREPARATION  FOR  SOFTENING  AND  WHITENING  THE  HANDS 

Put  into  a  bottle  two  ounces  of  glycerine,  the  juice  of 
two  lemons  and  a  few  drops  of  carbolic  acid.  Shake  well. 
Add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  water  and  shake  again.  After 
washing  and  wiping  the  hands  rub  a  little  of  this  mixture 
into  them.  Carbolized  mutton  tallow  may  be  rubbed  into 
the  hands  at  night.  After  rubbing  in  the  tallow,  powder  the 
hands  with  dry  starch.    Put  on  loose  gloves. 

CARBOLIZED  MUTTON  TALLOW 

Cut  a  pound  of  mutton  suet  into  fine  shreds  and  put  it  in 
a  stone  or  earthen  bowl.  Place  the  bowl  in  a  pan  of  hot 
water  on  the  range,  stirring  frequently  until  there  is  enough 
of  the  melted  tallow  to  fill  a  half-pint  cup.  Turn  this  tal- 
low into  a  bowl,  and  as  it  begins  to  thicken  beat  into  it  half 
a  teaspoonf ul  of  carbolic  acid.  This  is  excellent  for  chapped 
hands,  and  is  also  good  to  rub  on  the  feet  when  they  are 
tired  or  when  one  has  chilblains. 

TOOTH  POWDER 

Mix  together  two  ounces  of  precipitated  chalk,  one  ounce 
of  powdered  orris  root  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered 
white  castile  soap.  Now  rub  through  a  sieve  several  times. 
Keep  in  a  closely  covered  jar.  To  prepare  the  powdered 
soap,  cut  into  thin  shavings,  dry,  and  then  pound  and  sift. 
A  little  powdered  camphor  may  be  added  to  the  tooth 
powder. 

SUNBURN  REMEDY 

Have  the  druggist  put  the  following  ingredients  into  a 
large  bottle:  One  pint  and  a  half  of  orange-flower  water, 


SUPPLEMENTARY  377 

half  a  pint  of  elder-flower  water,  two  fluid  ounces  of  tinc- 
ture benzoin,  half  a  fluid-ounce  of  cologne  water,  four  grains 
of  camphor,  sixty  grains  of  ferrous  sulphate,  a  quarter  of  an 
ounce  of  citric  acid.  Keep  a  small  bottle  of  this  mixture 
on  your  dressing-table  and  rub  it  on  the  hands  and  face 
night  and  morning.  Shake  the  bottle  well  before  using  the 
contents. 

TO  CURE  CONTRACTED  MUSCLES  CAUSED  BY  A  BURN 

To  cure  contracted  muscles  caused  by  a  burn:  The  treat- 
ment should  begin  as  soon  as  the  burn  is  healed.  Dissolve 
one  ounce  of  Epsom  Salts  in  four  ounces  of  water.  Keep  the 
muscles  wet  with  this  liquid  through  the  day  and  as  much  as 
possible  through  the  night.  The  best  way  to  do  this  is  to 
have  a  soft  cloth  wet  with  the  liquid,  and  bound  on  the  con- 
tracted muscle.  The  cure  is  slow,  but  sure.  This  remedy 
has  recently  been  discovered  by  a  surgeon.  One  of  my  friends 
has  been  saved  a  surgical  operation  by  this  treatment,  and 
is  so  grateful  that  she  desires  the  knowledge  to  spread. 

CONCERNING  HOUSEHOLD  INSECTS 

To  the  bringing  into  our  homes  of  fabrics,  furniture  and 
household  supplies  from  all  sources,  in  these  days  of  uni- 
versal travel,  there  may  be  charged  the  introduction  into  our 
houses  of  some  of  the  most  annoying  of  destructive  insects. 
If  one  knows  something  of  the  life  cycle  of  these  insects 
one  can  proceed  intelligently  in  the  work  of  exterminating 
them.  A  description  of  a  few  types  and  the  remedies  will 
give  the  housekeeper  the  key  to  the  best  methods  of  pro- 
tecting herself  from  these  pests.  Additional  remedies  will 
be  found  on  pages  341  to  346.  The  U.  S.  Department  of 
Agriculture  has  published  some  valuable  Bulletins  on  house- 
hold insects.  If  you  cannot  find  these  in  your  Public  Li- 
brary send  to  Washington  for  them. 


378  HOME  ECONOMICS 


CLOTHES  MOTHS 


There  are  four  stages  in  the  life  of  the  moth:  the  eggt 
the  larva,  the  pupa,  the  moth.  The  moth  generally  deposits 
its  eggs  where  the  larva  may  find  suitable  food— that  is,  in 
furs,  feathers  and  wool  materials. 

The  larva  emerges  from  the  egg  in  the  form  of  a  worm 
which  immediately  begins  to  feed  upon  its  surroundings.  It 
makes  a  case  for  itself  with  particles  of  the  materials  upon 
which  it  feeds,  and  moves  about  in  this.  If  the  article  in 
which  the  eggs  were  deposited  is  soiled  the  development  of 
the  larva  is  rapid,  and  as  a  consequence  the  destruction  of 
the  material  is  greater  than  it  would  have  been  had  the 
article  been  clean. 

When  the  larva  reaches  full  growth  it  fastens  itself  to 
some  substance,  generally  the  article  on  which  it  has  been 
feeding.  In  about  three  weeks  the  moth  emerges  from  the 
case  and  soon  begins  depositing  eggs  for  a  new  generation. 
Now,  although  the  moth  does  not  directly  injure  fabrics,  it 
supplies  the  eggs  from  which  the  destructive  larvae  are 
hatched.  When  moths  are  seen  flying  about  there  is  every 
reason  to  suspect  that  the  eggs  are  being  deposited. 

Before  putting  away  woolens,  furs  or  feathers  see  that 
they  are  as  clean  as  possible.  Wearing  apparel  should  have 
all  the  pockets  turned  inside  out,  all  the  seams  and  hems 
brushed,  and  then  be  well  shaken  and  aired.  Clean  all 
soiled  places  with  benzine  or  turpentine.  If  there  is  any 
danger  of  eggs  having  been  deposited  in  furs  carefully  comb 
the  furs,  using  a  steel  comb.  Pin  the  articles  in  cotton 
bags.  Put  them  in  boxes  or  closets  that  have  been  made 
insect  and  germ  free  by  carbolic  acid.  Put  bits  of  cotton 
wet  with  oil  of  cedar  in  the  boxes  or  closets,  or  cedar  chips 
or  camphor  may  be  used. 

From  early  spring  until  late  fall,  carpets,  upholstered  fur- 


SUPPLEMENTARY  379 

niture  and  woolen  garments  hanging  in  closets  in  constant 
use  should  be  brushed,  beaten  and  aired  frequently. 

SPRAY  FOR  MOTHS 

Spray  for  moths  is  made  by  mixing  together  one  quart  of 
alcohol,  one  ounce  each  of  carbolic  acid  crystals  and  cam- 
phor, a  quarter  of  an  ounce  each  of  oil  of  cedar  and  oil  of 
eucalyptus.  Keep  the  bottle  well  corked.  Put  some  of  the 
liquid  in  an  atomizer  and  spray  the  places  where  the  moths 
appear. 

TWO  DESTRUCTIVE  CARPET-BEETLES 

There  are  two  well-known  species  of  these  beetles  in  this 
country:  the  buffalo-bug  and  the  black  carpet-beetle.  The 
buffalo-bug  is  less  than  a  quarter  of  an  inch  long;  it  is  cov- 
ered with  minute  scales  which  give  it  a  marble  appearance; 
it  has  a  red  stripe  down  the  middle  of  the  back.  At  a  first 
glance  it  might  be  taken  for  a  lady-bug.  Unlike  the  moth 
it  likes  the  light  and  will  often  be  found  on  window  casings 
and  draperies.  In  summer  it  will  fly  from  the  house  to  the 
garden.  The  eggs  hatch  in  a  few  days.  The  larva  is  a 
dark,  hairy  oblong,  which  breaks  like  powder  under  slight 
pressure.  When  the  larva  is  full  grown  it  passes  to  the 
pupa  stage,  and  from  that  to  the  beetle.  As  with  the  cloth 
moth,  it  is  the  larva  that  injures  fabrics  and  various  ma- 
terials. It  does  not  confine  its  destructive  work  to  carpets, 
but  will  eat  through  silks,  woolens,  feathers,  and  sometimes 
even  cottons.  It  is  easier  to  trace  the  carpet-beetle  than 
the  cloth-moth  because  the  beetle  does  not  shun  the  light, 
and  the  larva  is  not  concealed  in  a  case  of  the  material  upon 
which  it  is  working. 

The  precautions  and  remedies  for  this  insect  are  practi- 
cally the  same  as  for  moths.    When  cleaning  out  closets, 


380  HOME  ECONOMICS 

boxes  and  drawers,  spread  an  old  sheet  on  the  floor  and  shake 
the  articles  over  it.  The  larvae  will  drop  off  readily,  and 
may  be  crushed  at  once.  Hang  the  infested  articles  in  the 
air;  spray  the  closets,  boxes,  drawers,  cracks  of  floors,  etc., 
with  carbolic  acid  or  naphtha. 

The  black  carpet-beetle  is  oval,  black,  and  a  little  longer 
and  narrower  than  the  buffalo-bug.  The  larva  is  long  and 
round,  the  body  ends  with  a  tuft  of  hair.  The  color  of  the 
body  is  light  brown.  Its  habits  are  about  the  same  as  the 
buffalo-bug  and  the  treatment  should  be  along  the  same 
lines. 

ONE  OF  THE  MOST  DREADED  PESTS 

Bedbugs  are  liable  to  find  their  way  into  any  house  or 
apartment,  but  it  is  the  housekeeper's  fault  if  they  find 
lodgment  there.  As  with  all  other  insects,  perfect  cleanli- 
ness is  the  greatest  safeguard.  If  they  are  found  in  a 
room  immediate  action  should  be  taken.  There  are  many 
agents  for  exterminating  these  bugs,  but  my  preference  is 
for  naphtha.  It  is  clean,  does  not  injure  anything,  is  easily 
applied,  and  is  absolutely  sure  if  enough  is  used  in  the 
right  place.  The  only  drawback  is  that  the  vapor  is  very 
inflammable,  but  if  the  work  is  done  in  the  morning  with 
the  windows  open,  and  there  is  neither  light  nor  fire  in  the 
room,  there  is  not  the  slightest  danger.  It  must  be  re- 
membered that  these  insects  do  not  confine  themselves  to 
the  bed.  They  get  into  picture  moldings,  the  backs  of  pic- 
tures, cracks  in  floors  and  walls,  and  in  upholstered  furniture. 

The  following  wash  will  exterminate  the  pests.  Mix  to- 
gether in  a  large  bottle  half  an  ounce  each  of  corrosive 
sublimate  and  powdered  camphor,  half  a  pint  each  of  wood 
alchohol  and  turpentine;  have  the  room  cleaned  and  apply 
the  wash  with  a  small  brush.  Force  it  into  the  cracks  and 
grooves  in  floors,  walls  and  furniture,  and  carefully  brush  it 


SUPPLEMENTARY  381 

over  the  backs  of  picture  frames  and  the  tops  of  picture 
molding.  Do  not  use  enough  to  run  on  the  walls  and  fur- 
niture as  it  soils  badly. 

Oil  of  red  cedar  will  exterminate  the  pests.  Another 
method  is  to  fumigate  with  sulphur. 

THE  DOMESTIC  COCKROACH 

Some  species  of  this  insect  are  to  be  found  in  all  coun- 
tries and  climates.  It  is  so  well  known  that  it  needs  no 
description  here.  It  generally  confines  itself  to  the  kitchen 
and  back  parts  of  the  house  where  heat,  moisture  and  food 
are  to  be  found.  These  insects  collect  in  old  wood  and 
boxes  of  papers.  Hotels  and  apartment  houses  are  liable  to 
have  this  pest,  but  if  one  has  full  control  of  a  house  there 
need  be  no  difficulty  in  keeping  it  free  from  them.  Perfect 
cleanliness  in  the  kitchen,  pantries,  cellar  and  backyard  is 
all  that  is  required.  All  garbage  should  be  burned  if  pos- 
sible. If  cockroaches  are  in  the  neighborhood  they  will  be 
attracted  by  kitchen  refuse,  soiled  and  damp  floorcloths 
and  dish-towels,  particles  of  food,  particularly  fats,  etc.  If 
these  insects  get  into  the  house,  spray  with  carbolic  water 
all  the  cracks  in  walls  and  floors  where  they  are  seen,  and 
use  some  one  of  the  many  non-poisonous  preparations  that 
are  sold  for  this  purpose.  There  is  a  powder  [Roachelene] 
sold,  which  really  exterminates  them;  they  are  attracted  by 
it,  eat  it  and  shrivel  up  until  they  are  reduced  to  a  speck 
of  dust.  This  process  of  exterminating  them  is  much  bet- 
ter than  driving  them  to  one's  neighbors. 

SILVER  MOTHS  AND  SILVER  FISH 

Under  these  two  heads,  and  also  as  bristle-tail,  silver 
witch,  etc.,  is  known  an  insect  that  is  destructive  to  paper 
books,   starched   articles  and  some  kinds  of   food.    The 


382  HOME  ECONOMICS 

bristle-tail  is  about  one  third  of  an  inch  long,  tapering  from 
the  head  to  the  end  of  the  body,  which  ends  in  three  thread- 
like caudal  appendages.  It  is  silvery  white  with  a  tinge  of 
yellow  in  the  legs  and  abdomen.  It  finds  its  way  to  every 
part  of  the  house,  even  under  the  wall  paper,  where  it  feeds 
on  the  paste.  The  remedies  for  this  pest  are  plenty  of 
light  and  air,  frequent  brushings  of  every  part  of  the  room, 
insect  powder  injected  into  crevices,  and  sprayed  on  walls, 
floors  and  shelves.  Rooms  infested  with  these  pests  may 
be  fumigated  with  sulphur,  or  have  a  thorough  treatment 
with  naphtha  or  carbolic  acid.     Oil  of  cedar  is  also  good. 

Use  the  same  remedies  for  the  spring-tail  and  the  book- 
louse,  should  they  at  any  time  appear  in  any  part  of  the 
house. 

ANTS 

Of  all  the  insect  pests  which  trouble  the  housekeeper 
there  are  none  that  are  so  difficult  to  deal  with  as  these 
interesting  little  creatures.  To  understand  the  difficulty  of 
exterminating  either  the  black  or  red  ant  one  must  know 
something  of  their  habits.  Here  is  a  brief  outline  which 
will  aid  the  housekeeper  in  carrying  out  a  successful  plan 
for  the  extermination  of  these  pests.  Ants  live  in  colonies 
and  are  divided  into  males,  females  and  neuters.  The 
neuters  do  the  work.  The  males  and  females  rarely  leave  the 
colony.  The  swarms  of  ants  that  appear  in  the  house  are 
composed  of  neuters.  The  destruction  of  these  ants  will 
lessen  the  nuisance,  but  the  insects  cannot  be  exterminated 
in  this  manner,  for  others  to  replace  them  will  be  produced 
in  the  colony.  The  colony  or  nest  must  be  found  and  the 
males  and  females  destroyed.  This  is  a  difficult  matter,  and 
and  it  is  only  by  patient  watching  that  one  is  able  to  follow 
the  ants  to  their  home.  The  colony  may  be  in  the  soil  out- 
side the  house,  in  which  case  it  is  easily  found;  or  it  may  be 


SUPPLEMENTARY  383 

in  the  walls,  or  under  the  floors  of  the  house,  where  it  is 
more  difficult  to  reach  them. 

To  exterminate  ants  trace  them  to  their  home.  To  do 
this  it  may  be  necessary  to  remove  part  of  a  floor  or  the 
baseboard  of  a  room.  Wherever  the  nest  is  found  such 
measures  must  be  taken  as  shall  kill  all  life  in  it.  If  the 
nest  is  in  the  house  saturate  it  with  kerosene  oil  or  with 
boiling  water.  If  the  nest  is  in  the  ground  have  a  long 
sharp-pointed  stick,  which  press  into  the  nest,  remove 
quickly,  and  pour  about  two  ounces  of  disulphide  of  carbon 
into  the  hole;  close  at  once  by  pressing  the  foot  on  the 
hole.  Proceed  in  this  manner  until  six  holes  are  made, 
filled  and  closed.  The  fumes  of  disulphide  of  carbon  will 
penetrate  to  every  part  of  the  nest,  destroying  all  life.  Be 
careful  not  to  breathe  the  fumes  of  the  chemical,  and  be 
very  careful  not  to  have  light  or  fire  near  when  using  it. 
A  lighted  candle,  cigar  or  pipe  might  cause  an  explosion. 

Ants  may  be  trapped  in  either  of  the  following  two  ways  : 
Cover  plates  with  a  thin  coat  of  lard  and  set  them  in  the 
places  infested  by  the  insects.  Place  little  sticks  at  the  side 
on  which  they  can  mount  to  the  plates.  When  the  plates 
are  full  drop  them  into  a  pan  of  hot  water.  Or,  wet  sponges 
with  sweetened  water  and  place  them  about.  When  full  of 
the  insects  drop  into  hot  water. 

Strong  odors  will  sometimes  drive  away  these  pests,  but 
as  a  rule  one  does  not  want  to  use  such  odors  where  there 
is  food.  Among  the  odors  that  may  be  used  are  oil  of 
pennyroyal,  oil  of  cedar  (a  few  drops  put  on  bits  of  cotton, 
which  are  then  placed  in  the  infested  places),  or  gum 
camphor. 

To  protect  food  keep  it  as  much  as  possible  in  closely 
covered  tin  boxes,  or  in  the  refrigerator,  or  on  tables  which 
are  protected  by  having  the  legs  placed  in  four  dishes,  in 
each  of  which  there  has  been  poured  some  tar  water,  to  the 
depth  of  about  four  inches. 


384  HOME  ECONOMICS 


FLEAS  AND  REMEDIES  FOR  THEM 

These  insects  hide  in  floors  and  walls,  and  in  and  under 
carpets.  As  a  rule  any  of  the  following  methods  will  eradi- 
cate them:  A  thorough  treatment  of  the  room  with  naph- 
tha; taking  the  carpets  and  upholstered  furniture  out-of- 
doors  and  saturating  them  with  naphtha;  cleaning  the  room 
with  carbolic  water,  injecting  it  into  all  cracks  and  ledges; 
spraying  every  part  of  the  room  and  furniture  with  insect 
powder.  Often  a  thorough  sweeping,  brushing  and  airing 
are  all  that  is  required  to  rid  a  room  entirely  of  these  pests. 

SPRAY  FOR  FLEAS  AND  MOSQUITOES 

Dissolve  two  ounces  of  oil  of  eucalyptus  in  one  pint  of 
alcohol.  Into  another  bottle  put  two  ounces  of  oil  of  bay 
and  add  two  ounces  of  ether.  Cork  the  bottles  tight  and 
shake  occasionally.  When  the  contents  of  both  bottles  are 
dissolved  pour  the  alcohol  mixture  on  the  ether  mixture. 
Use  this  with  an  atomizer,  spraying  the  localities  in  the 
room  where  the  fleas  or  mosquitoes  are.  The  fleas  are  gen- 
erally in  the  lower  part  of  the  room,  while  the  mosquitoes 
are  usually  on  the  upper  parts  of  the  walls  and  the  ceiling. 

HOW  TO  EMPLOY  OIL  OF  CEDAR 

Oil  of  red  cedar  will  kill  all  insects.  Open  all  boxes,  drawers, 
closets,  etc.;  wet  little  wads  of  cotton  batting  with  oil  of 
red  cedar  and  scatter  about  the  room,  being  careful  not  to 
let  them  come  in  contact  with  clothing  or  furnishings,  as  the 
oil  makes  a  bad  stain.  Close  the  room  as  tightly  as  possible 
to  keep  in  the  strong  odor.  If  possible  keep  the  room  closed 
for  two  days.  If  you  cannot  get  the  oil  of  red  oedar,  use 
about  four  times  as  much  of  the  common  oil  of  cedar.  It 


SUPPLEMENTARY  385 

will  take  about  three  ounces  of  oil  of  red  cedar  for  a  large 
room. 


HOW  TO  FUMIGATE  WITH  SULPHUR 

Take  all  metals  and  colored  fabrics  from  the  room;  paste 
strips  of  paper  over  the  cracks  of  windows  and  doors;  put 
an  iron  or  tin  pan  in  the  middle  of  the  room,  and  in  it  put 
water  to  the  depth  of  three  inches.  Put  a  couple  of  bricks 
in  the  pan,  and  on  these  place  an  old  iron  pan  in  which  you 
have  put  a  bed  of  burning  charcoal.  Throw  a  few  ounces 
of  finely-broken  sulphur  on  this  and  close  the  door.  Do  not 
open  the  room  for  twenty-four  hours.  Sulphur  candles 
may  be  employed  in  place  of  the  charcoal  and  sulphur. 
This  method  is  effective  for  carpet  bugs,  bed  bugs,  moths, 
and  disease  germs. 


HOW  TO  SEAL  A  ROOM 

When  getting  a  room  ready  to  disinfect  it  is  important 
that  it  should  be  sealed  so  tight  that  but  little  of  the  disin- 
fecting fumes  shall  escape,  and  also  that  the  sealing  agent 
shall  be  easy  -to  remove.  Here  is  a  method  that  is  simple 
and  clean:  Soak  two  teaspoonfuls  of  powdered  gum  traga- 
canth  in  one  pint  of  cold  water  for  an  hour,  then  place  the 
bowl  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water  and  stir  frequently  until  the 
gum  is  all  dissolved.  Have  newspapers  cut  into  strips 
about  two  inches  wide  and  paste  six  thicknesses  together. 
Paste  these  over  the  cracks  of  doors  and  windows,  leaving 
the  door  by  which  you  leave  the  room  to  be  sealed  after  the 
f umigator  is  lighted.  If  there  is  a  fireplace  in  the  room  it 
must  be  covered  with  several  thicknesses  of  thick  brown 
paper.  The  gum  tragacanth  is  easily  washed  off  and  does 
not  discolor  either  paint  or  woodwork. 


386  HOME  ECONOMICS 


PUTTING  AWAY  WOOLENS  AND  PURS 

Many  a  housekeeper  packs  away  her  furs  and  woolens 
with  fear  and  trembling,  not  knowing  what  may  be  their 
condition  when  they  are  unpacked  in  the  fall.  In  many 
cases  there  certainly  is  reason  for  this  fear,  because  the  arti- 
cles have  not  been  thoroughly  cleaned.  If  moths  or  their 
eggs  are  left  in  the  folded  articles  there  is  sure  to  be  a 
large  colony  of  larvae,  which  will  eat  its  way  through  all 
the  woolen  and  fur  articles  in  its  vicinity.  On  the  other 
hand,  if  closets  and  other  receptacles  are  made  absolutely 
clean,  and  then  treated  with  some  insecticide,  and  if  the 
garments  are  made  perfectly  free  from  insects  and  their 
eggs,  the  housekeeper  can  go  away  with  an  easy  mind. 

When  ready  to  put  away  furs,  feathers  or  woolens  have 
some  clean  sheets  or  cotton  bags.  For  garments  that  are 
to  be  hung  up,  the  bags  are  better  than  sheets.  Have  the 
closets  or  boxes  made  clean  as  directed.  Brush  the  furs 
and  shake  well.  Hang  in  the  sun  for  several  hours.  If  you 
have  a  suspicion  that  there  are  eggs  in  the  furs  comb  each 
piece  of  fur  well.  Pin  the  articles  in  the  sheets,  and  on  the 
sheets  pin  little  wads  of  cotton  batting,  dampened  with  oil 
of  cedar.  Paint  the  joining  of  the  boxes  with  oil  of  cedar 
then  line  with  paper.  When  the  box  is  full  cover  with 
paper,  put  on  the  regular  cover,  and  put  away  in  closet  or 
storeroom. 

Feathers  and  all  woolen  garments  are  treated  like  furs.  I 
am  sure  that  if  these  instructions  are  followed  no  kind  of 
an  insect  will  appear  in  either  closet  or  box.  The  odor  of 
oil  of  cedar  is  very  strong,  but  passes  off  in  a  few  days  when 
there  is  thorough  ventilation.  Of  course  it  is  important 
that  this  odor  should  be  retained  in  closets  and  boxes,  and 
for  this  reason  they  must  Joe  closed  tight.     Oil  of  cedar 


SUPPLEMENTARY  387 

makes  a  reddish-yellow  stain  which  it  is  hard  to  remove; 
therefore  it  should  not  come  in  contact  with  the  clothing. 
The  sheets  used  should  be  kept  solely  for  packing  purposes. 
A  small  unstoppered  bottle  of  chloroform  put  in  a  corner  of 
the  packing  box  will  protect  the  contents  from  moths  or 
carpet  bugs. 

HOW  TO  PREPARE  A  HOUSE  FOR  CLOSING 

When  closing  the  house  for  a  month  or  more  take  such 
precautions  that  you  may  be  sure  of  finding  it  sweet  and 
healthful  on  your  return.  Have  rugs  cleaned  and  packed 
away  the  same  as  other  woolens.  Take  down,  clean  and 
put  away  all  draperies.  If  you  have  upholstered  furniture 
give  that  a  good  beating  and  brushing.  Have  the  house 
thoroughly  swept  and  dusted.  Have  the  floors  in  kitchen, 
pantries  and  laundry  washed  with  water  to  which  a  little 
carbolic  acid  has  been  added.  Flush  the  plumbing  with 
carbolic  acid  water;  then  a  few  hours  before  you  leave  the 
house  flush  with  hot  sal-soda  water— one  pound  of  the  soda 
to  a  gallon  of  water;  for  the  kitchen  sink  and  set  tubs  make 
it  two  pounds  of  soda  to  the  gallon  of  water.  Soda  is 
cheap,  so  be  generous  with  the  flushing  liquid.  The  house 
is  protected  from  sewer  gas  by  the  water  seal  in  each 
waste-pipe— that  is  to  say,  water  to  the  depth  of  a  few  inches 
is  supposed  to  remain  at  all  times  in  each  trap,  but  when 
the  plumbing  is  not  used  for  weeks  at  a  time  this  layer  of 
water  is  evaporated,  the  seal  is  broken  and  sewer  gas  pours 
into  the  house.  To  prevent  the  evaporation  of  the  water  in 
the  trap,  just  before  leaving  the  house  pour  a  few  spoon- 
fuls of  sweet  oil  into  each  trap. 

Have  everything  in  the  way  of  cereals,  or  anything  eat- 
able, and  gums,  such  as  gum-arabic,  tragacanth,  etc.,  also 
candles,  matches,  etc.,  in  metal  or  stone  receptacles,  that 
the  mice  may  have  nothing  to  attract  them.     If  you  have 


388  HOME  ECONOMICS 

carpets  on  your  floors  strew  bits  of  cotton,  on  which  you 
have  poured  oil  of  cedar,  along  the  edges  of  the  carpets.  I 
would  use  this  oil  in  every  part  of  the  house.  The  odor  is 
so  overpowering  that  it  cannot  be  employed  in  quantity 
until  you  are  about  to  depart. 


INDEX 


INDEX 


Absorption,  removing  grease  from 
fabric  by,  307 

removing  grease  from  wood  by,  311 

removing  ink  by,  302 
Accounts,  household,  350 
Acid,  action  of,  on  marble,  65 

carbolic,  96,  343,  345 

carbon  dioxide,  action  of,  on  lime, 
31 

carbonic,  action  of,  in  batters  and 
doughs,  253 

carbonic,  how  and  when  liberated, 
254 

carbonic,  proportion  in  air,  57 

carbonic,  source  of,  253 

effect  of,  on  brass  and  copper,  68 

muriatic,  304 

nitric,  used  as  a  test  for  impuri- 
ties in  water,  34 

oxalic,  solution  of,  332 

oxalic,  to  remove  stains  from  floor 
with,  319 

stains,  to  remove,  308 

to  neutralize,  when  spilled  on  mar- 
ble, 65 

used  in  cleaning  plumbing,  95 
Aids  in  darning,  308 
Air,  a  force  in  making  batters  and 
doughs  light,  253 

cold,  regulating  supply  in  furnace, 
138 

contaminated,  causes  disease,  58 

current  of,  under  fire  causes  com- 
bustion, 143 

current  of,  over  fire  retards  com- 
bustion, 144 


danger  of  contamination,  57 

definition  of  pure,  57 

flowing  over  or  under  fire,  effects 

of,  145 
free  circulation  of,  through  fuel, 

144 
fresh,  for  furnace,  138 
pure,  method  of  obtaining,  in  the 

house,  56 
to  test  purity  of,  331 
Air=box,  137, 138 
necessity  of  supply  of  pure  air  in, 
138 
Air-bubbles,  in  student  lamp,  130 
Aitchbone,  176 
Alabaster,  to  clean,  328 
Albumin,   effect    of    temperature 
on,  234 
property  of  coagulation  of,  234 
test  to  show  effect  of  heat  on,  236 
Albuminous  compounds,  impera- 
tive necessity  for,  259 
food,  227 

matter,  where  found,  234 
matter,  tendency  to  fermentation 

and  putrefaction,  236 
substances,  cooking  of,  235 
Alcohol,  74 
dissolves  gums,  310 
dissolves  varnishes,  307 
removes  stains,  291,  305 
solvent  power  of,  291 
stains  on  wood  finishes,  310 
when  spilled  on  varnish,  what  to 
do,  310,  339 
Alimentary  canal,  225 


391 


392 


INDEX 


Alkaline  solutions,  how  to  neu- 
tralize, 70 
Alkalis,  effect  on  white  boards,  311 

how  to  test  action  of,  70 

most  commonly  used  in  the  house- 
hold, 70 

soda  for  cleaning  iron  and  steel,  90 

soda  and  borax  in  the  laundry,  99 

what  to  do  when  alkaline  mixtures 
are  spilled  on  painted  or  var- 
nished surfaces,  71,  339 
Alloys,  melting-point  of  some,  347 
Alum,  334 
Ammonia,  65,  70,  99,  103,  108, 

#  318,  321,  337,  339 
Animal,  minor  parts  of  the,  192 

feet,  192 

heads,  193 

hearts,  193 

kidneys,  193 

livers,  193 

sweetbreads,  194 

tongues,  193 

tripe,  193 
Announcing  meals,  162 
Anthracite  coal,  134,  135 

how  to  manage,  141 
Ants,  343 

Appliances,  ironing,  arrangement 
of,  120 

lighting,  care  of,  126 

proper,  for  working  in  the  pantry, 
165 

used  in  polishing  floors,  275 
Artichoke,  259 
Ash,  264 
Ashes,  absorb  heat,  145 

for  cleaning,  87 

removing  from  flues  and  pans,  145 
Asparagus,  259 

Back  yards,  93 

Bacon  fat,  233 

Bacteria,  349 

Bacteriology,  349 

Baking  batters  and   doughs, 

general  rule  for,  255 
Balls,  scouring,  335 
Basin,  stationary,  23 


Basswood,  266 
Bastard,  264 
Batters,  253,  255 

and  eggs,  how  and  why  they  should 
be  beaten,  255,  256 
Beans,  245 

green,  259 
Bed-blankets,  44,  105 
Bedrooms, best  kind  of  light  for,  41 

best  floor  for,  41 

how  to  furnish,  41 

method  of  ventilating  in  cold  wea- 
ther, 56 
Beds,  desirability  of  single,  41 

how  to  make,  44 

how  they  can  be  made  absolutely 
comfortable,  42 

importance  of  well-made,  44 

kind  of  mattresses  for,  42 

kind  and  size  of  coverings,  43 

length  of,  43 

length  of  sheets,  43 
Bed=springs,  45 
Beef.    See  Marketing. 
Beets,  257 
Benzene,  293 
Benzole,  294 
Bile,  226 
Bins,  for  fuel,  9 
Bismarck  brown,  281 
Bituminous  coal,  134,  135,  146 
Black,  aniline,  281 
Black  spots  on  wood,  to  remove, 

311,  319 
Black  walnut,  to  stain  wood,  281 
Blankets,  the  advantage  of  light 
wool,  44 

the  best  way  to  press,  106 

how  to  remove  spots  from,  105 

when  and  how  to  wash,  105 
Block-tin,  care  of,  78 
Blood  stains,  301,  305 
Boiled  meats,  240 
Boiling  albuminous  substan* 

ces,  238 
Boots,  how  to  put  new  linings  in, 

336 
Borax,  99,  103,  104, 105,  108,  109, 
110,  112,  115,  134,  137 


INDEX 


393 


Braizing  meats,  240 

Brass,  cleaning  substances,  to  se- 
lect, 69 

effect  of  acids  on,  68 

effect  of  dampness  on,  70 

to  clean,  68 

to  clean  with  an  acid  and  salt,  69 

to  clean  with  sal-soda  and  an  acid, 
69 

trimmings  of  furniture,  to  polish, 
328 
Bread,  164 

the  ideal,  244 
Breakfast,  preparation  for,  162 

table,  151 
Bricks,  18 
Britannia,  49 

care  of,  78 
Broiling  meats,  240 
Bronzes,  to  clean,  328 
Brush,  weighted,  care  of,  276 

weighted,  how  to  use,  275 

weighted,  how  to  clean,  276 
Brushes,  hair,  how  to  clean,  337 
Buffalo=bugs,  345 
Building,  materials  used  in,  17 
Burning=points  of  fats,  231 
Burns,  lime-water  and  oil  for,  329 
Butter,  199,  231,  234 

to  clarify,  231 

to  sweet  n  rancid,  234 

melting-point  of,  348 

Cabbage,  250,  259 
Candle=grease,  307 
Carbohydrates,  224 

Carbolic  acid,  how  to  dissolve,  331 

how  it  may  be  used  to  advantage, 
331 

in  cleaning  clothes-closets,  345 

used  in  exterminating  insects,  345 
Carbon  compounds,  223,  224 
Carbonic=acid  gas,   sources   of, 
253 

when  and  how  liberated,  254 
Care  of  cellar,  90 

of  dining-room,  75 

of  dishes,  163 

of  fats,  232 


of  floors  in  kitchen  and  pantry,  80 

of  furnace  fires,  136 

of  kitchen  and  pantries,  79 

of  kitchen  utensils,  82 

of  lamps,  127 

of  lighting  appliances,  126 

of  natural-wood  finishes,  73 

of  outside  doors,  73 

of  plumbing,  93 

of  range,  140 

of  refrigerator,  88 

of  the  tea-kettle,  87 

of  window-sashes,  74 
Carpet=cleaning,  64 
Carpets,  cutting  for  register,  314 

matting,  to  lay,  314 

method  of  laying,  313 

tendency  of  oil-cloths  and  linoleum 
to  stretch,  316 
Carrots,  247,  250 
Carve,  beef,  roast  ribs,  to,  207 

beef,  rolled  ribs,  to,  207 

beef,  round,  to,  208 

beef,  sirloin  roast,  to,  206 

birds,  small,  to,  219 

chicken,  broiled,  to,  216 

chicken,  roast,  to,  216 

cod's  head  and  shoulders,  to,  220 

duck,  roast,  to,  217,  218 

fish,  small,  to,  219 

bluefish,  to,  220 

chicken  halibut,  to,  220 

flatfish,  to,  220 

flounder,  to,  220 

haddock,  to,  220 

halibut,  to,  220 

plaice,  to,  220 

salmon,  to,  220 

swordfish,  to,  220 

fowl,  boiled,  to,  216 

goose,  roast,  to,  218 

grouse,  roast,  to,  219 

ham,  to,  211 

lamb,  fore  quarter,  to,  210 

lamb,  hind  quarter,  to,  209 

lamb,  leg,  to,  209 

mutton,  fore  quarter,  to,  209 

mutton,  haunch,  to,  209 

mutton,  leg,  to,  207,  208 


394 


INDEX 


mutton,  loin,  to,  209 

mutton,  saddle,  to,  208 

mutton,  shoulder,  to,  209 

partridge,  to,  219 

pig,  roast,  to,  213 

pigeons,  to,  219 

pork,  loin,  to,  211 

pork,  spare  rib,  to,  211 

ptarmigan,  to,  219 

tongue,  to,  212 

turkey,  to,  214 

veal,  breast,  to,  210 

veal,  fillet  of,  to,  211 

veal,  loin  of,  to,  210 

veal,  neck,  to,  211 

veal,  shoulder,  to,  211 

venison,  haunch,  to,  212 

venison,  fore  quarter,  to,  212 

venison,  leg,  to,  212 

venison,  loin,  to,  212 

venison,  shoulder,  to,  212 
Carver,  advantages  of  studying  il- 
lustrations to  the,  203 
Carver's  chair,  205 
Carving,  art  of,  202 

cutting  across  the  grain,  203 

fish,  general  rules  for,  219 

how  a  joint  or  a  fowl  should  be 
left  for  a  second  serving,  205 

knife,  best  way  to  sharpen,  204 

pleasure  of,  202 

reason  for  giving  four  illustrations 
of  shoulder  of  mutton,  203 
Casein,  224 

Cash  accounts,  why  best,  350 
Castor=oil,  297 
Casts,  plaster,  how  to  clean,  327 

plaster,  how  to  mend,  326 

plaster,  how  to  oil,  328 

plaster,  how  to  stain,  327 

plaster,  how  to  wax,  327 
Cauliflower,  259 
Celery,  259 
Cellar,  care  of,  90 

condition  of,  1 

drainage  of,  1,  6 

floors,  1,  7 

lighting  and  ventilation,  8 

method  of  cleaning,  90 


screens  for,  91 
use  of,  8 
walls,  1 

windows,  when  they  should  be  open, 
91 
Cereals,  241,  243,  244,  259,  263 
high   temperature    develops    the 
flavor  of,  252 
Chalk,  French,  307 
Charcoal,  26 

Checks  and  drafts,  140-144 
how  to  manage,  142 
what  they  are  and  how  they  work, 
144 
Cheese,  259 

Chemicals,   careless    use    of,   on 
finished  surfaces,  70 
in  cookery,  254 
in  the  laundry,  99 
their  effects  on  certain  materials, 

70 
to  neutralize  when  employed   in 

removing  stains,  300 
valuable  in  the  removal  of  stains, 
300 
Cherry,  to  stain  wood,  281 
Chestnut  (see  Woods),  263 
Chicken,  216 
Chimneys,  1 
height  of,  22 
lamp,  cleaning  of,  130 
China,  appearance  of, when  properly 
washed,  78 
care  not  to  crack  the  glaze,  77 
gilt  on,  should  not  be  subject  to 

strong  alkalis,  78 
method  of  washing,  77 
sorting  before  washing,  78 
why  it  should  not  be  piled  together 
while  warm,  77 
Chloride  of  lime,  26,  309,  329 
Chloroform,  307 
Chocolate  stains,  307 
Clean,  alabaster,  to,  328 
brass,  to,  68 
brass   trimmings  of  furniture,  to, 

328 
bronzes,  to,  328 
brushes,  to,  337 


INDEX 


395 


carpet,  to,  64 

coat  collars,  to,  337 

combs  and  brushes,  to,  337 

copper,  to,  68 

draperies,  to,  64 

enamel  finish,  to,  72 

fireplaces  and  grates,  to,  64 

floors  with  petroleum,  to,  274 

furniture,  to,  65 

furniture  leather,  to,  65 

marble,  to,  65 

marbles,  small,  to,  328 

painted  woodwork,  to,  70 

plaster  casts,  to,  327 

registers,  to,  64 

room,  to,  63 

rugs,  to,  64 

silver,  to,  75 

tiles,  to,  65 

tin,  to,  86 

windows,  to,  67 
Cleaning,  with  fullers'  earth,  334 

with  scouring-balls,  335 

precautions  to  be  taken  in,  339 
Clinkers,  to  remove,  147 
Clock,  kitchen,  48 
Closet,  for  preserves,  10 

for  wraps,  etc.,  16 
Closets,  earth,  25 

for  brooms,  brushes,  and  cleaning 
appliances,  16 

location  of,  11 

woods  used  in,  20 
Cloth  of  gold,  214 
Clothes  (see  Laundry),  98 

rack,  340 
Clothing,  frame  for,  340 
Cloths,  for  polishing  floors,  how  to 
wash,  277 

polishing,  receptacles  for,  277 
Coal,  anthracite,  134 

anthracite,  how  to  manage,  141 

bituminous,  134,  135,  146 

putting  in  cellar,  133 

red  ash,  135 

size  of,  135 

slaty  deposit  in,  135 

white  ash,  135 
Cockroaches,  343 


Cocoa  stains,  307 
Coffee,  257 

pot,  care  of,  88 
stains,  307 
Cold-air  box,  137 

location  of,  138 

importance  of,  and  why  supply  of 
air  should  be  pure,  138 
Collar,  coat,  to  clean,  337 
Color,  for  curtains  (see  Laundry), 

110 
Colored    cotton    articles    (see 

Laundry),  106 
Colors,  ground  in  oil,  323 

ground  in  powder,  323 
Comb=grain  (see  Woods),  264 
Combs  and  brushes,  to  clean, 

337 
Combustion,  how  to  regulate,  in 
range,  144 
spontaneous,  298 
Connective  tissue,  173,  238 
Cooking  of  albuminous  substances, 
principles  underlying  the,  234 
effect  on  vegetables  of  over-cook- 
ing, 249 
effect  on  lean  meat,  236 
effect  of,  in  closed  vessels,  257 
fats,  229 
fish,  240 
fruits,  227 
importance  of  proper  method  of, 

225 
meats,  238 
necessity  of  an  outlet  for  escape 

of  gases  in,  238 
of  starchy  foods,  principles  under- 
lying the,  242 
vegetables,  241,  246 
vegetables,   a  few  definite   rules 

for,  249 
vegetables,  secret  of  success  in, 
250 
Copper,  effect  of  acid  on,  68 
effect  of  dampness  on,  70 
to  clean,  69 
selection  of  cleaning  substances 

for,  69 
utensils,  54 


396 


INDEX 


Copperas,  97 
Corn,  176,  259 
Corned  meats,  186 
Cctton-seed  oil,  296 
Cracked  surfaces  on  wood  fin- 
ishes, to  restore,  73 
Cracklings,  214 
Cucumbers,  257 
Curtains,  washing  of,  110 

Daily    routine   of   household 
work,  61 

Dampers,  effect  of  opening,  143 

how  managed,  142 

smoke,  143 

use  of,  142 
Darning,  aids  in,  338 
Dents  in  wood,  method  of  remov- 
ing, 282 
Deodorizing  cooking  utensils, 

87 
Dextrine,  224,  225,  241 
Digestion,     conditions    favorable 
and  unfavorable  to,  227 

brief  outline  of  process  of,  226 

of  starch,  227 
Dining-room,  11 

care  of,  75 

furnishing,  37 
Dinner,  giving,  fashion  in,  156 

proper  succession  of  courses  in  a, 
156 

a  successful,  155 

table,  152 
Dishes,  cause  of  breakage,  14 

preparation  for  washing,  163 

rules  for  the  waitress  to  observe 
in  washing,  165 
Division  of  income,  350 
Doors,  care  of  outside,  73 

location  of,  11 
Doughs,  253,  255 
Drafts,  137 

what  they  are,  143 
Drainage  and  earth-closets  in  coun- 
try houses,  25 

of  cellar,  6 
Draining=she!ves,  14 


Drains,  construction  of,  for  liquid 

refuse,  26 
Draperies,  64 
Dressers,  kitchen,  illustration  of, 

17,18 
Dry  and  cracked  surfaces  on 

wood  finishes,  to  restore,  73 
Drying  loosely  woven  woolen 

articles,  104 
Duck,  to  carve,  217 
Dust- mop   (see  Yacht-mop),  207, 

277 

Earth,  as  a  purifier,  26,  28 
closets,  26 
fullers',  307,  334 
fullers',  to  clean  with,  334 
fullers',    to    make    scouring-balls 
with,  335 
Earthenware,  50,  51 
tendency  to  absorb  fats,  54 
yellow,  54 
Economies,  suggestions  as  to  lit- 
tle, 260 
Economy  in  food,  the  true,  258 
Effect  of  cooking  in  ventilated 
and  un ventilated  vessels, 
257 
Egg-plant,  259 

Eggs,  198, 199,  226,  235,  236,  255, 
256,  259 
how  and  why  they  are  beaten,  255, 

256 
illustration  of  effect  of  tempera- 
ture on,  236 
to  test,  199 
Enameled   cloth   for  tables   and 
shelves,  79 
ware,  49 

ware,  grades  of,  53 
ware,  how  made,  53 
ware,  qualities  necessary  in,  53 
Encaustic  No.  1,  332 
No.  2,  333 

No.  2  for  removing  ink  stains  from 
wood^  finishes,  204 
Entertaining,  ceremonious,  154 
Ether,  307 
Exercise,  effect  on  muscles,  173 


INDEX 


397 


Fads  and  common    sense  in 

foods,  260 
Fasciculi,  173 

Fats,  229-234,  338 

belong  to  the  hydrocarbon  group, 
224 

burning-point  of,  231 

care  of,  232 

effect  of  cooking  on,  230 

how  to  clarify,  233 

how  to  determine  temperature  of, 
232 

how  to  use  various  kitchen,  233 

importance    of     temperature    at 
which  they  are  cooked,  229 

melting-point  of,  348 

temperature  of,  for  frying,  232 
Felt  pads  for  furniture,  278 

for  polishing,  285 

to  fasten  on  furniture,  278 
Fibers,  muscular,  173 

effect  of  different  degrees  of  heat 
on,  173 

structure  of,  173 

ultimate,  173 
Fibrils,  173 
Fibrin,  236 

of  the  blood,  coagulation  of,  235 
Filler,  for  ash,  318 

for  dark  wood,  317 

for  light  wood,  317 

for  walnut,  318 
Fillers  for  wood,  what  they  are 

and  why  used,  317 
Finish    of    walls,  woodwork, 

and  ceiling,  4 
Finishes,  wood,  treatment  of,  279, 

281 
Fire,  anthracite  coal,  how  to  man- 
age, 141 

depth  of  bed  of  coal,  146 

furnace,  care  of,  136 

grate,  146 

how  to  care  for,  when  ironing,  120 

how    to    manage    dampers    and 
checks,  142 

how  checks  work,  144 

range,  to  make,  141 

to  regulate  combustion  of,  144 


to  regulate  temperature,  145 

to   prevent  burning   to    a  white 

heat,  145 
wood,  to  prepare  for  broiling,  146 
Fireplaces,  64 

Fish,  general  remarks  on  serving 
(see  Carving),  219 
general  principles  underlying  cook- 
ing of,  240 
quality,  indications  of,  in  (see  Mar- 
keting), 197 
Flannels  (see  Laundry),  202 
Flat=irons,  how  to  clean,  123 
how  to  remove  rust  from,  124 
Flavors  and  odors,  developed  by 
heat,  257 
reason  why  all  should  not  be  re- 
tained, 257 
Flesh 'formers,  224 
Floor-coverings,  some  points  on 

laying,  312 
Floors,  advice  of  an  expert  in  re- 
gard to,  265 
appliances  used  in  polishing,  275 
cellar,  1,  7 

cleaning  with  petroleum,  274 
cloths  for  cleaning,  how  to  wash, 

277 
composition  of  fillers,  and  object 

of,  317 
cracks  in,  to  fill,  318 
daily  care  of,  270 
effect  of  water  on,  269 
felt  pads  on  furniture  to  protect 

polished,  278 
finishing,  filling,  and  staining  of, 

316 
general  directions  for  oiling,  273 
hard-wood,  268 
how  to  apply  the  filler  to,  316 
how  to  prepare  fillers  for,  317 
how  to  oil  piazza,  278 
how  to  remove  old  paint  and  var- 
nish from,  318 
how    to    rub    down    to    absolute 

smoothness,  316 
importance  of  condition  of,  322 
kitchen,  hall,  pantry,  and  stairs,  14 
laying  and  finishing,  19,  266 


398 


INDEX 


linoleum,  care  of,  82 
materials  for  care  of,  333 
method  of  applying  wax  to,  271 
necessity  for  proper  treatment  of, 

270 
oiled,  in  kitchen  and  pantry,  care 

of,  80 
painted  or  varnished,  care  of,  81 
polished,  267 

removal  of  grease-spots  from,  311 
rift  wood  in,  19 

sanitary  value  of  polished,  268 
stained,  to  wax,  273 
stains,  to  remove,  from,  271 
to  clean  and  wax  at  the  same  time, 

272 
waxed,  treatment  of,  270 
waxing,  preparing  for,  271 
weekly  care  of,  270 
white  board,  care  of,  82 
Flour,  how  to  test,  200 
Flues  of  range,  keeping  clean,  140 

ventilating,  in  kitchen,  14 
Food,   general    rule    for   certain 

methods  of  cooking  vegetables, 

250 
materials,  manipulation  of,  252 
materials,  market   and   nutritive 

value  of,  223 
tables  to  aid  in  arranging  daily 

menus,  259 
vegetable  fruits  and  flowers,  241 
vegetables  containing  little  or  no 

starch,  table  of,  259 
Foods,  albumin  in,  255 
albumin,  coagulation  of,  in,  234 
albumin    in   relation   to    gastric 

juice,  227 
albuminous,  effect  of  temperature 

on,  235 
albuminous  matter  in,  tendency  to 

fermentation  and  putrefaction 

of,  236 
albuminous    substances    in    lean 

meat,  235 
albuminous  substances,  principles 

underlying  the  cooking  of,  234 
apples,  198 
apricots,  228 


batters,  253 

batters,  effect  of  varied  tempera- 
tures on,  255 

batters,  general  rules  for  baking, 
255 

beans,  245,  259 

beets,  259 

blackberries,  228 

braizing,  240 

bread,  ideal,  244 

brief  outline  of  process  of  diges- 
tion, 226 

broiling,  240 

broiling,  boiling,  roasting,  albumi- 
nous, 238 

burning-point  of  fats,  231 

butter,  231 

butter,  how  to  clarify,  231 

butter,  to  sweeten  rancid,  234 

carbohydrates,  224 

carbon  compounds,  223,  224 

cereals,  241,  243,  244,  252,  259 

corn,  243 

corn,  Indian,  243 

corn-starch,  243 

cranberries,  228 

currants,  228 

digestion,  conditions  favorable  and 
unfavorable  for,  227,  243 

digestion  of  starch,  227 

doughs,  effect  of  varied  tempera- 
ture on,  255 

doughs,  general  rule  for  baking, 
255 

drippings,  231 

economy  in,  258 

effect  of  cooking  in  closed  or  in 
ventilated  vessels,  257 

effect  on  digestion  of  manner  of 
serving  and  eating,  225 

eggs,  198,  235,  236 

eggs,  how  to  test,  199 

eggs,  when  used  to  thicken  and  not 
to  lighten  an  article,  256 

fads  and  common  sense,  260 

fats,  229 

fats,  burning-point  of  some,  231 

fats,  effect  of  water  on  tempera- 
ture of,  230 


INDEX 


399 


fats,  importance  of  temperature  at 
which  they  are  cooked,  229 

flavors  of  coffee  and  soups,  lost  by 
lowered  temperature,  257 

flavors  and  odors,  developed  by 
heat,  256,  257 

flour,  how  to  test,  200 

for  growth  and  repair,  table  of,  259 

fruits,  dried,  in  cooking,  proportion 
of  water  to,  229 

fruits,  fresh,  effect  of,  on  digestive 
organs,  228 

fruits,  method  of  cooking  dried,  228 

fruits,  nutritive  value  of,  227 

fruits,  a  few  points  in  regard  to, 
228 

fruits,  quantity  of  sugar,  and  its 
effect  on,  228 

frying,  240 

gooseberries,  228 

goose-grease,  231 

hydrocarbons,  224 

lard,  231 

legumes,  their  nutritive  value,  245 

legumes,  method  of  cooking,  245 

mineral,  225 

nitrogenous  compounds,  223 

nitrogenous  substances,  224 

object  of,  222,  295 

olive-oil,  231 

peaches,  228 

pears,  228 

pease,  245,  247 

potatoes,  boiled,  251 

principles,  general  division  of,  223 

proper  combination  of  food  prin- 
ciples, 258 

prunes,  229 

quinces,  228 

raspberries,  228 

receptacles  for,  54 

rice,  boiled,  251 

starch,  241 

starch,  effect  of  cooking  on,  242 

starch,  digestibility  of,  243 

starch,  what  is  necessary  in  cook- 
ing it,  242 

stewing,  240 

strawberries,  228 


suggestions  as  to  little  economies 

in,  260 
that  produce  heat  and  force,  table 

of,  259 
tubers,  241 

vegetables,  to  blanch,  247 
vegetables,  fresh,  necessary  con- 
dition before  cooking,  249 
vegetables,  fresh,  care  not  to  over- 

or  under-cook,  249 
vegetables,  green,  246 
vegetables,  general  rule  for  certain 

methods  of  cooking,  250 
vegetables,  fresh,  how  the  French 

cook  them,  246 
vegetables,  a  plea  for  more  atten- 
tion to  their  preparation,  249 
vegetables,  boiled  potatoes,  251 
vegetables,  sautered,  247 
vegetable    substances,    principles 

underlying  the  cooking  of,  241 
vegetables   that  do  not  contain 

starch,  241 
vegetables,  tuberous,  246 
vegetables,  varying  composition  of, 

241 
Foundation  of  house,  4,  5 
Frames,  picture,  to  mend,  326 
for  dress-waists  and  men's  clothing, 

340 
Freezing,  effect  of,  on  meat,  192 
Fruit,  227-229 
knives,  158 
stains,  to  remove,  with  fumes  of 

sulphur,  306 
when  best,  and  how  preserved,  228 
Frying,  240 
Fuel  and  fires,  133 
kinds  of,  134 
placing  of  bins  for,  9 
preparation  of  cellar  for  coal,  133 
time  to  buy,  133 
wood,  135 
Fullers'  earth,  311,  334 
to  clean  with,  335 
scouring-balls  of,  335 
Furnace,   cleaning   of   flues   and 

pipes,  136 
construction  of,  136 


400 


INDEX 


fire  in  cold  weather,  137 

fire,  renewing  the,  137 

fire-pot,  136 

fresh  air  necessary  for,  138 

method  of  starting  fire  in,  136 
Furnishing  the  bedroom,  40 

the  dining-room,  37 

essentials  in,  35 

the  hall,  36 

the  kitchen,  46 

the  laundry,  122 

the  library,  37 

the  living-room,  38 

the  parlor,  39 
Furniture,  carvings,  to  clean,  286 

"  cleaner  and  polisher,"  receipt  for, 
332 

finish,  faded  or  cracked,  on,  to  re- 
store, 286 

leather,  to  clean,  65 

materials  for  care  of,  333 

upholstered,  to  clean,  65 

varnished  surfaces  of,  to  clean,  286 

wax  for  polishing,  333 

waxed  surfaces  of,  to  clean,  287 


Galvanized  iron,  55 
Game  and  poultry,  195 
Game-birds,  195 
Garbage,  91 

method  of  disposing  of,  92 
Garnishing,  205 

Gas,  carbonic-acid,  proportion  of,  in 

air,  57 
carbonic-acid,  source  of,  253 
coal,  from  stove  or  furnace,  139 
drop-light,  care  of,  126 
fixtures,  care  of,  127 
laws  of  expansion  and  contraction, 

57 
leaks  in  pipes,  127 
meters  and  stopcocks,  127 
noxious,   conditions  which   cause 

formation  of,  6 
nitrogen,  proportion  in  air,  57 
oxygen,  proportion  in  air,  57 
precautions  to  be   taken   before 

turning  on,  2 


range,  47 

sewer,  24 
Gas-burners  and  keys,  care  of, 

126 
Gasolene,  294 
Gastric  juice,  226,  227 
Georgia  pine,  263 
Glass,  care  of,  76 

cut,  care  of,  77 

cut,  use  of  sawdust  for,  77 

danger  of  scratches  on,  77 
Glue,  how  to  make,  326 
Gluing,   conditions   necessary  for 
success  in,  325 

furniture  and  other  articles,  325 
Granite-ware,  49,  51,  53 
Grate  fires,  146 
Grease,  how  to  prevent  spreading 
on  a  fabric,  308 

in  sink-pipes,  94 

to  remove  from  marble,  66 

to  remove  from  matting,  67 

spots,  several  methods  of  remov- 
ing, 307 

spots,  to  remove  from  wood,  311 

wheel,  to  remove  stains  of,  309 
Green  stains,  305 
Groceries,  200 

care  of,  200 
Guests,  selection  of,  155 

Ham,  to  carve,  211 

Ham  fat,  233 

Hanging  clothes  out  to  dry,  117 

Heart- wood,  262 

Heat,  circulation  of,  in  oven,  142, 143 
effects   of   different   degrees    on 

muscular  fiber,  173 
and  force,  table  of  foods  that  will 

produce,  159 
inflammable    substances,  how  to, 

338 
white,  to  prevent  coals  from  burn- 
ing up  to,  145 
Hip,  or  thick  sirloin,  179 
Hip-bone,  175,  176 
Home,  some  of  the  essentials  of, 

1,9 
Hostess,  155 


INDEX 


401 


House,  colors  in  interior  finish  of, 
20 

general  plan  of  the,  10 

interior  finish  of  the,  20 

outline  of  what  is  needed  in  the, 
10 

selecting  the,  1 

situation  and  foundation  of  the, 
1,5 

skeleton   and   circulatory  system 
of,  4 

some  suggestions  for  people  build- 
ing their  own,  3 
Household  accounts,  350 

refuse,  91 

work,  daily  routine  of,  61 
Hydrocarbons,  224 

Income,  division  of,  350 
Inflammable  substances,  how 

to  heat,  338 
Ink  stains,  301-304,  311 
Insects  and  vermin,  341 
Interior  finish,  yearly  polishing 

of,  74 
Iodine  stains,  305 
Iron,  how  to  remove  rust  from,  124 

galvanized,  55 
Ironing,  arrangement  of  appliances 
for,  120 

folding  clothes  for  the,  118 

folding  clothes  after  the,  122 

how  to  care  for  fire  when,  120 

how  table-linen  should  be  ironed, 
121 

motion  of  the  iron  in,  121 

preparing  for,  119 

what  to  do  till  the  irons  are  hot,  124 
Iron=rust,  90,  306 
Irons,  how  to  clean,  123 

why  very  hot  for  raw  starch,  116 
Ironware,  49 

advantages  of,  54 

to  remove  rust  from,  90 
Ivory-handled  knives,  care  of, 
76 

Javelle  water,  how  to  make,  330 
in  the  laundry,  99,  304 


Kerosene,  73r  132,  291,  292 

washing  with,  109 
Keys  loose  in  gas  fixtures,  126 
Kidneys,  175,  193 
Kitchen,  furnishing  of,  46 

utensils,  care  of,  79,  82 

varnished  and  oiled  woodwork  in, 
care  of,  80 
Kitchen  and  pantries,  care  of,  79 

plan  of,  12 
Knives,  care  of  handles,  76 

carving,  how  to  sharpen,  204 

fruit,  151 

to  polish  steel,  78 

to  remove  spots  from  ivory  handles, 
76 

to  remove  rust  from,  79 

Lamb  (see  Marketing  and  Carving), 
190,  209 

Lamp-burners,  care  of,  129 

Lamp-chimneys,  cleaning  of,  129 

Lamps,  127 
cleaning,  method  of,  129 
consideration  in  purchasing,  128 
daily  care  of,  129 
essentials  of  a  clear  light,  128 
how  to  light  and  extinguish,  129 
how  to  regulate  light,  131 
necessary  appliances  for  cleaning, 

129 
student,  127 

student,  bubbles  of  air  in,  130 
what  causes  explosions  in,  132 
when  carrying  from  place  to  place, 
129 

Lamp-wicks,  128 

Lard,  melting-point  of,  348 

Laundry, 98 
blankets,  when  and  how  to  wash, 

105 
blankets,   how   to   remove   spots 

from,  105 
blankets,  best  way  to  press,  106 
care  of,  123 
chemicals  used  in,  98 
color  for  curtains,  110 
colored  cotton  articles,  to  launder, 
106 


402 


INDEX 


colored  cotton  articles,  how  to  wash 

with  starch,  107 
curtains,  how  to  launder,  110 
embroideries  and  colored  silks,  how 

to  launder,  109 
flannels,  102 

flannels,  colored,  how  to  wash,  104 
flannels,  method  of  washing,  103 
folding  clothes  for  ironing,  118 
folding  clothes  after  ironing,  122 
hanging  clothes  out  to  dry,  117 
how  the  clothes  should  be  washed, 

100 
how  the  clothes  should  be  scalded, 

101 
importance  of  rinsing,  101 
laundress,  importance  of  caring  for 

health  of  the,  124 
mending  before  washing,  100 
necessary  furniture  for,  122 
necessity  for  absolute  cleanliness 

in,  123 
silk  undergarments,  how  to  laun- 
der, 108 
sorting  the  clothes  for  washing, 

100 
starch,  boiled,  113 
starch,  boiled,  how  it  should  be 

used,  116 
starch,  boiled,  No.  1,  very  stiff,  113 
starch,  boiled,  No.  2,  moderately 

stiff,  114 
starch,  boiled,  No.  3,  less  stiff,  114 
starch,  boiled,  No.  4,  not  very  stiff, 

suitable  for  skirts  and  dresses, 

114 
starch,  boiled,  No.  5,  very  thin,  for 

table-linen,  etc.,  114 
starch,  bluing  in,  115 
starch,  borax  in,  112 
starch,  gum-arabic,  112 
starch,  method  of  making,  114 
starch,    method    of    making,  for 

washing  colored  goods,  107 
starch,  raw,  112 

starch,  raw,  rule  for  making,  115 
starch,  reasons  for  ironing  raw- 
starched  articles  very  damp,  115 
starch,  rice,  112 


starch,  turpentine  in,  102 
starching,  some  points  on,  111 
stiffening  with  gelatin,  113 
summary  of  preparation  for  wash- 
ing, 101 
summary  of   method  of  washing 

flannels,  104 
water,  bluing,  to  prepare,  102 
water,  to  prepare,  for  soaking  the 

clothes,  100 
wringer,  a  few  words  about,  122 
Lawns,  protection  of,  when  putting 

in  coal,  134 
Lease  of  house,  2 
Leather  furniture,  65 
Leg  of  mutton,  time  of  cooking, 

239 
Legumes,  241,  244,  245 
Lentils,  259 
Lettuce,  247,  250 
Library,  11 

furnishing  the,  37 
Lighting  appliances,  care  of,  127 
oil-lamps,  127 
some  facts  in  regard  to  petroleum, 

131 
to  test  safety  of  oil,  132 
Lime  and  oil,  for  removing  rust  from 
iron  and  steel,  79,  89 
and  potash,  how  to  prepare  for 

floors,  319 
and  sal-soda,  how  to  prepare  for 
floors,  319 
Lime-water,  how  to  make,  329 
used  as  an  anti-acid  tonic,  329 
to  test  purity  of  the  air  of  a  room 

with,  329 
and  oil  for  burns,  329 
to  soften  hard  water  with,  329 
for  whitening  boards  on  which  a 
strong  alkali  has  been  used,  329 
Linoleum,  79,  315 
Linseed=oil,  73, 180, 273, 278, 290, 

291 
Liquid  soda,  how  to  make  and  use, 
330 
stains,  321 
Locust- wood,  263 
Luncheon-table,  152 


INDEX 


403 


Mahogany,  265 

color,  to  produce  on  wood,  181 
stain,  dark,  323 
stain,  light,  324 
Manipulation    of  food   mate- 
rials, 252 
Marble,  action  of  acids  on,  65 
difficulty  of  removing  stains  from, 

66 
how    to    neutralize    acids    when 

spilled  on,  65 
how  to  remove  acid  or  grease-spots 

from,  66 
Marbles,  small,  to  clean,  328 
Marketing,  aim  of  chapter  on,  168 
advantages  to  the   carver   of  a 

study  of  Figs.  14,  15,  and  16, 

176 
aitchbone,  176,  178 
anatomy  of  animals,  importance 

of  a  knowledge  of,  169 
animals,  minor  parts  of,  192 
animals,  muscular  flesh  of,  191 
apples,  198 

ball-and-socket  joint,  176 
beef,  aitchbone,  176,  178 
beef,  bowler  piece,  178 
beef,  brisket,  172,  183 
beef,  brisket,  thick  end  of,  178, 

183,  186 
beef,  carcass,  how  divided,  172 
beef,  Chicago  dressed,  170 
beef,  chuck  ribs,  178,  180 
beef,  corned,  176,  185,  186 
beef,  cross-rib  piece,  178,  180 
beef,  cutting,  New  York  method  of, 

182 
beef,  explanation  of  Fig.  10,  175 
beef,  flat-bone  steak,  176 
beef,  flank,  181 
beef,  fillet,  185 
beef,  fillet-false,  185 
beef,  fore  quarter,  172 
beef,  hind  quarter,  172 
beef,  indications  of  good,  172 
beef,  indications  of  poor,  172 
beef,  leg  of,  183 
beef,  loin  of,  77 
beef,  navel  piece,  182,  183 


beef,  ox,  skeleton,  174 

beef,  plate  piece,  182,  186 

beef,  portions  suitable  for  roasting 
and  broiling,  179 

beef,  portions  suitable  for  boiling, 
braizing,  stewing,  alamode,  and 
also  cheap  roasts  and  steaks, 
180 

beef,  portions  suitable  for  slow 
cooking,  such  as  stewing,  braiz- 
ing, boiling,  soups,  etc.,  181 

beef,  porterhouse,  176,  179,  184 

beef,  porterhouse  steak,  176,  183 

beef,  porterhouse  or  loin,  bones  of, 
174 

beef,  porterhouse  or  loin,  direction 
of  muscles,  in  Fig.  14,  177 

beef,  porterhouse  or  loin,  Fig.  18, 
182 

beef,  first  quality,  includes  portions 
suitable  for  roasting  and  broil- 
ing, 179 

beef,  second  quality,  includes  por- 
tions suitable  for  boiling,  braiz- 
ing, stewing,  alamode,  *and  also 
cheap  roasts  and  steaks,  180 

beef,  third  quality,  includes  por- 
tions suitable  for  slow  cooking, 
such  as  braizing,  boiling,  stew- 
ing, soups,  etc.,  181 

beef,  quality  of,  depends  on  age 
and  food,  170,  171 

beef,  rattle-ran,  182 

beef,  ribs,  cross-rib  piece,  172, 178, 
180  182 

beef,  ribs,  175,  180,  182,  185 

beef,  ribs,  location  of  bones  in,  Fig. 
10,  174 

beef,  ribs,  direction  in  which  mus- 
cles run,  Fig.  14,  177 

beef,  ribs,  rolled,  180 

beef,  round,  180 

beef,  rump,  176 

beef,  rump  piece,  176,  186 

beef,  rump,  back  of,  181 

beef,  shin,  183 

beef,  shoulder,  172,  183 

beef,  shoulder-blade,  178 

beef,  shoulder  clod,  178 


404 


INDEX 


beef,  side,  New  York  method  of 

cutting,  182 
beef,  side,  interior  of,  169,  181 
beef,  side,  outline  of,  169,  182 
beef,  sirloin,  176,  206 
beef,  sirloin   steak,  how   cut   in 

New  York,  184 
beef,  sirloin,  thick,  or  hip,  174, 176, 

179,  184 
beef,  sirloin,  first,  second,  third 

cuts  of,  174,  179 
beef,  sirloin,  top  of,  184 
beef,  skeleton  of,  showing  location 

of  bones  in  various  cuts,  174 
beef,  skirt  of,  182 
beef,  stall-fed,  171 
beef,  sternum,  178 
beef,  tenderloin  of,  175,  179,  181, 

184,  185 
beef,  why  cut  into  more  joints  than 

any  other  animal,  172 
beefsteak,  flat-bone,  176, 183, 184, 

185 
beefsteak,  Hamburg,  180,  183 
beefsteak,    hip-bone,    176,    183, 

184 
beefsteak,  porterhouse,  176,  179, 

183,  184 
beefsteak,  rib,  183 
beefsteak,  round,  180,  183 
beefsteak,  round-bone,  176,  183, 

184,  185 
beefsteak,  short,  179,  183 
beefsteak,  shoulder,  183 
beefsteak,  sirloin,  Fig.  19,   176, 

179,  183,  184 

beefsteak,  tenderloin,  184 

beefsteaks,  183 

beefsteaks,  cross-ribs,  183 

beefsteaks,  Delmonico,  183,  184 

beefsteaks,  entre-cote,  183,  185 

butchers'  meat,  why  the  house- 
keeper snould  have  a  clear 
knowledge  of,  168 

butter,  199 

danger  of  attempting  to  learn  too 
much  at  once,  169 

ducks,  196 

effect  of  the  age,  the  breed,  and 


the  feeding  of  the  animal  on  the 

quality  of  the  meat,  171 
effect  of  exercise  on  meat,  170, 171, 

173 
effect  of  freezing  on  meat,  192 
eggs,  198 
eggs,  to  test,  199 
explanation  of  Fig.  10  (skeleton  of 

ox),  174,  175,  179,  183 
explanation  of  Figs.  15  and  16, 

176,  179 
explanation  of  Fig.  14,  177-181 
explanation  of  Fig.  17,  179,  180 
explanation  of  Fig.  18,  179,  180, 

182 
explanation  of  Fig.  19  (method  of 

cutting  sirloin  steaks),  184 
explanation  of  Fig.  20,  184 
explanation  of  Fig.  21,  185 
explanation  of  Fig.  22,  185 
explanation  of  Fig.  23,  185 
explanation  of  Fig.  24,  188,  189 
fasciculi,  173 
feet,  the,  of  animals,  192 
fiber,  muscular,  173 
fibrils,  173 
fish,  197 
fore  quarter  of  an  animal,  why  it 

is  less  tender  than  the  hind,  178 
fore  quarter  of  beef,  mutton,  lamb, 

etc.,  how  to  learn  position  of 

muscles,  178 
game,  195 
groceries,  200 
heads,  193 
hearts,  193 
hip-bone,  176 
kidneys,  175,  192 
lamb,  190 

lamb,  best  age  for,  190 
lamb,  how  divided,  190 
liver,  193 

mature  and  immature  animals,  dif- 
ference in  quality  of  flesh  of, 

170,  191 
meats,  effect  of  humid  atmosphere 

on,  192 
method  of  studying  marketing,  169 
milk,  199 


INDEX 


405 


minor  parts  of  the  animal,  what 
they  are,  and  the  precautions  to 
be  taken  in  purchasing  them, 
192 

muscles,  advantage  to  marketer 
and  carver  of  a  knowledge  of 
location  of,  178 

muscles,  importance  of  cutting 
across  the  grain  of,  175 

muscles  in  fore  quarter  of  an  ani- 
mal, how  to  learn  direction  of, 
178 

muscles  in  hind  quarter  of  an  ani- 
mal, how  to  learn  direction  of, 
176 

muscles,  structure  of,  173 

muscles,  to  study  arrangement  and 
location  of,  Fig.  14,  178 

muscular  covering  of  skeleton,  178 

muscular  fiber,  arrangement  in 
bundles,  173 

muscular  fiber,  effect  of  different 
degrees  of  heat  on,  173 

muscular  fiber,  structure  of,  173 

muscular  fibers,  172 

muscular  flesh  of  animals,  effect  of 
freezing  on,  192 

muscular  flesh  of  animals,  effect 
of  rigor  mortis  on,  191 

muscular  flesh  of  animals,  some 
characteristics  of,  191 

muscular  system,  172 

muscular  system,  illustration  of, 
177 

mutton,  187 

mutton,  best  age  for,  188 

mutton,  breast,  190 

mutton  chops,  188 

mutton  chops,  French,  188 

mutton  cutlets,  190 

mutton,  fore  quarter  of,  189,  209 

mutton,  haunch  of,  188,  209 

mutton,  indications  of  good,  188 

mutton,  leg  of,  189,  190 

mutton,  loin  of,  190 

mutton,  must  be  well  ripened,  188 

mutton,  neck  of,  189 

mutton,  rack  of,  188 

mutton,  ribs,  190 


mutton,  saddle  of,  188,  208 

mutton,  shoulder  of,  189,  209 

mutton,  various  cuts  of,  188 

necessity  for  frequent  visits  to  the 
market,  168 

ox,  170 

pork,  190 

pork,  indications  of  good,  191 

pork,  indications  of  poor,  191 

pork,  most  desirable  parts  for 
roasting  and  chops,  190 

pork,  necessity  for  care  in  select- 
ing, 191 

pork,  necessity  for  thorough  cook- 
ing, 191 

poultry,  195 

poultry,  drawn  and  undrawn,  195 

poultry,  dry-picked  and  scalded, 
196 

poultry,  tests  of  good,  196 

poultry,  kinds  for  various  methods 
of  cooking,  196 

qualities,  division  of  beef  into  vari- 
ous, 179 

quality,  first,  179 

quality,  second,  180 

quality,  third,  181 

rigor  mortis,  191 

skeleton,  of  ox,  174 

sternum,  178 

supplies,  general,  purchase  and  care 
of,  197 

sweetbreads,  194 

texture,  color,  and  odor  of  meats 
and  fish,  one  should  become  famil- 
iar with,  169 

tongue,  193 

tripe,  193 

ultimate  fiber,  173 

veal,  186 

veal,  age  and  feeding,  186 

veal,  breast  of,  187 

veal  chops,  187 

veal  cutlets,  187 

veal,  flank  of,  187 

veal,  fillet  of,  187 

veal,  how  the  calf  is  divided,  186 

veal,  how  the  French  produce 
prime,  186 


406 


INDEX 


veal,  indications  of  good,  186 
veal,  knuckle  of,  187 
veal,  leg  of,  187 
veal,  loin  of,  187 
veal,  piece  for  fricandeau,  187 
veal,  shoulder  of,  187 
vegetables,  green,  198 
vegetables,  winter,  198 
whirl-bone,  176 
Mastication,  necessity  for,  226 
Materials,  food,  manipulation  of, 
252 
used  in  building,  17 
Matting,  mats  of  Canton  and  Japa- 
nese, 315 
to  clean,  67 
to  lay,  314 

to  remove  grease  or  oil  from,  67 
to  remove  moisture  from,  67 
Mattresses,  coverings  for,  45 
kinds  of,  42 

protection  and  care  of,  45 
Meals,  162-164 
Meats,  239 
to  boil,  broil,  braize,  roast,  stew, 
and  fry,  239,  240 
Melting-point,  to  judge  purity  of 

some  fats  by,  348 
Melting-points  of  some  metals 

and  alloys,  347 
Menus,  tables  of  food  substances 
to  help  in  arranging  the  daily, 
259 
Metals,  effect  of  temperature  on 
different,  49 
melting-points  of  some,  347 
of  plumbing,  strong  acids  or  alkalis 
on  the,  339 
Mice,  346 

Mildew  stains,  309 
Milk,  199,  200,  234,  258,  259 
illustrations  of  effect  of  tempera- 
ture on,  235 
Mineral  foods,  225 
Mistress,  personality  of,  150 

and  maid,  161 
Moisture,  warmth  and  dirt  favor- 
able to  the  development  of  bac- 
teria, 350 


changed  to  steam  expands  in  great 
heat,  and  helps  to  lighten  doughs 
and  batters,  253 

Mop,  dust  (see  Yacht-mop),  277 

Mosquitos,  346 

Moths,  345 

Muriatic  acid,  304 

Naphtha,  132,  290,  293 
danger  from,  and  how  it  can  be 

used  safely,  344 
used  to  destroy  insects  and  vermin, 

342 
used  to  exterminate  bedbugs,  343 
Neutralize,  acid  stains,  how  to,  301 
the  action  of  alkalis,  how  to,  300 
when  chemicals  are  used  to  remove 
stains,  how  to,  300 
Neutralizing  spots  on  boards 
that  have   been   cleaned   with 
oxalic  acid,  before  staining. with 
an  alkali,  320 
Nitric  acid,  34 

Nitrogenous  compounds,  223 
Nitrogenous  substances,  224 
Nuts,  259 

Oak,  265 

stain,  324 

stain,  antique,  323,  324 

stain,  very  light,  324 

to  color  wood,  281 
Ocher,  yellow,  281 
Odors  and  flavors,  256,  257 

foods  that  absorb  them  readily, 
200 
Oil=cloth,  79,  315 
Oiling  floors,  general  directions  for, 
273 

painted  floors,  linoleum,  etc.,  274 

piazza  floors,  278 

wood,  secret  of  success  in,  274 
Oils,  an  important  element  in  home 
economics,  288 

benzene,  293 

benzole,  294 

castor,  297 

classes  of,  288 

cleaning,  292 


INDEX 


407 


cod-liver,  297 

cotton-seed,  296 

cotton-seed,  melting-point  of,  348 

drying  and  non-drying,  290 

effect  of  alcohol  on,  291 

essential  qualities  in  lubricating, 
292 

fat  and  essential,  289 

fixed  and  volatile,  289 

gasolene,  294 

kerosene,  73,  132,  291,  292 

kerosene,  to  test  safety  of,  132 

kerosene,  used  to  dissolve  gummy 
substances,  292 

kerosene,  washing  with,  109 

knowledge  of  their  action  and  ap- 
plication necessary,  288 

linseed,  boiled,  73,  290 

linseed,  cold-drawn,  290 

lubricating,  291 

minerals  mixed  with  fixed,  to  re- 
tard spontaneous  combustion, 
299 

naphtha,  293 

non-drying,  effect  of  oxygen  on, 
295 

olive,  295 

olive,  melting-point  of,  348 

olive,  when  chilled  to  the  freezing- 
point,  296 

paraffin,  291 

petroleum,  danger  from  benzin  in, 
132 

petroleum,  some  facts  in  regard  to, 
131 

plaster  casts,  to,  328 

preparations  of,  for  furniture,  73, 
286 

preservative  of  wood,  a,  278 

some  characteristics  of  cleaning, 
292 

spirits  of  turpentine,  293 

their  use  and  behavior,  288 

used  to  neutralize  alkalis  and  alco- 
hol, 70 

when    absorbed    by    porous   sub- 
stances, spontaneous  combustion 
of,  298 
Outbuildings,  93 


Oven,  how  to  regulate  heat  in,  145 

Ox,  skeleton  of,  174 

Oxalic  acid,  for  ink  stains,  311 

for  water  stains,  311 

solution  of,  332 
Ox=gall,  307 
Oxygen,  57,  60,  295,  298 

Pads,  how  to  make,  for  wood  finish- 
ing, 283 
Paint  and  varnish,  70 
cleaning,  70 

how  affected  by  wet  alkalis,  70 
how  to  clean  with  whiting,  72 
or  varnish,  action  of  chemicals  on, 

70 
stains,  action  of  alcohol  and  tur- 
pentine on,  307 
to  remove  from  wood,  318 
treatment  of  enamel  finishes,  72 
what  causes  streaks  on,  72 
when  cleaning,  avoid  use  of  strong 
^  soaps  or  alkalis,  71 
Painting,  conditions  for  durability, 
19 
exterior  of  house,  19 
Palates,  194 
Pancreatic  gland,  194 

juice,  226 
Pantries,  15 
and  china-closet,  14 
and  china-closet,  plan  of,  15 
care  of,  79 

care  of  varnished  and  oiled  wood- 
work in,  80 
daily  care  of,  80 
setting  in  order,  163 
Pantry,  cold,  plan  of,  16 
Paper,  blotting,  as  an  absorbent, 
307 
to  prevent  stain  showing  through, 

338 
wall,  colors  which  give  an  air  of 
warmth  or  coolness  to  a  room, 
21 
Paraffin,  291 

oil,  73,  280,  283,  284,  286,  291 
Parsnips,  250,  259 
Pease,  245,  257,  259 


408 


INDEX 


Pennyroyal,  to  drive  away  ants, 

343 
Permanganate  of  potash,  33, 97, 

320 
Petroleum,  cleaning  floors  with, 
274 

crude,  on  floors,  268 

danger  of  benzin  in,  132 

in  its  natural  state,  131 

in  lamps,  important  points  in  care 
of,  132 

products  of  crude,  132 

purifying,  132 

to  test  safety  of,  132 
Pewter,  49 

care  of,  78 
Picture-frames,  to  mend,  326 
Pigments,  322 
Pillows,  kind  and  size  of,  43 
Pine,    yellow,    hard,    soft,    white, 

265 
Pipes,  care  in  placing,  22 

chimney  and  furnace,  22 

corrugated  roof,  19 

danger  of  lead,  30 

flushing  the  water-closet,  93 

hot-air,  23 

overflow,  24 

soil,  24 

steam,  22 
Pitch  stains,  309 
Plan  of  work,  to  aid  inexperienced 

housekeeper,  62 
Plaster  casts,  how  to  clean,  327 

how  to  mend,  326 

how  to  oil,  328 

how  to  stain,  327 

how  to  wax,  327 
Plates,  hot  and  cold,  164 
Plumbing,  4,  23 

care  of,  92 

chemicals  used  in  disinfecting,  96, 
97 

danger  from  linty  cloths  and  hair 
to,  97 

horizontal  piping,  23 

how  to  disinfect,  92 

to  prepare  potash  for,  95 

to  prepare  soda  for,  95 


to  protect  pipes  when  using  chem- 
icals, 95 
stationary  basins,  93 
Points  to  decide,  before  begin- 
ning to  stain  a  floor,  322 
Polish,  brass  trimmings  on  furni- 
ture, to,  328 
method  of  restoring,  to  wood,  284 
on  woods,  to  clean  and  restore,  283 
Polisher  and  cleaner  for  furni- 
ture, receipt  for,  332 
Polishing,  yearly,  of  interior  finish, 
74 
wax  for  woodwork,  333 
of  woodwork,  74 

woods,  how  to  make  rubber  for, 
283 
Poplar,  264 

Pork  (see  Marketing),  190 
Porterhouse  roast  and  steak 

(see  Marketing),  176 
Posts,  how  the  ends  may  be  pro- 
tected   when    sunk    into    the 
ground,  263 
Potash,  95,  318 

and  soda,  how  to  dissolve,  319 
Potassium  permanganate,  96, 

320 
Potatoes,  boiled,  251 
Poultry  (see  Marketing),  195 
Proteid,  224 

Putty,  for  cracks  in  floors,  how  to 
make,  318 

Quality  in  meats,  171 
Quartered  woods,  264 

Rabbit,  195 

Rack,  for  clothing,  340 

for  saucepan  covers,  55 
Range,  46 

care  of,  140 

coal,  140 

fire,  how  to   manage   anthracite 
coal,  141 

flues,  keeping  clear,  140 

gas,  47 

knowledge  of  drafts  and  checks  of, 
140 


INDEX 


409 


necessary  qualifications  of  a  good, 
47 

polishing,  140 
Rats,  346 
Receptacles,  for  food,  54 

for  polishing-cloths,  277 
Refrigerator,  55 

method  of  cleaning,  88 

situation  of,  88 
Refuse,  household,  method  of  dis- 


posing of,  91,  92 
is 


Registers,  care  of,  64 

Rice,  boiled,  251,  259 

Rift  (see  Woods),  264 

Rigor  mortis,  191 

Rinsing,  importance  of,  101 

Roasting  meats,  239 

Room,  cold,  in  cellar,  9 

Rooms,  arrangement  of,  11 

Routine,  daily,  of  household  work, 
61 

Rubber   for    polishing  furni- 
ture, to  make,  283 

Rugs,  64 
for  hard-wood  floors,  269 
to  prevent  corners  from  curling, 
338 

Running  colors,  to  remove  stains 
of,  305 

Rust,  iron,  stains,  to  remove,  306 

Sago, 259 
Saliva,  225,  226 
Salmon,  220 
Sal-soda,  in  the  laundry,  99 

liquid,  to  make,  330 
Sashes,  window,  care  of,  74 
Satinwood,  262 

Saucepans,  rack  for  covers  of,  55 
Scorch  stains,  309 
Scouring-balls,  of  fullers'  earth, 
335 

to  clean  with,  335 
Screen,  for  admitting  air  and  ex- 
cluding dampness,  56 

for  cellar  windows,  91 
Service,  table,  148 
Sewer-gas  traps,  24 
Sheets,  length  of,  43 


Shellac,  280,  282 
Shoulder-blade,  175 
Shoulder  clod,  178 

Sienna,  burnt,  281 

raw,  318 
Silk    undergarments,    how    to 

launder,  108 
Silver,  cause  of  tarnishing,  76 

injurious  treatment  of,  76 

to  clean,  76 
Simmering  albuminous  sub- 
stances, 238 
Sink,  iron,  to  clean,  89 

iron,  to  remove  rust  from,  89 

iron,  regular  care  of,  90 

kitchen,  flushing,  93 

kitchen,  strong  solution  of  soda  to 
remove  grease  from  pipes  of,  94 

kitchen,  to  prepare  potash  for,  95 

kitchen,  trouble  from  liquid  grease 
in  pipes  of,  94 

kitchen,  weekly  treatment  of,  94 
Sirloin,  cuts  of,  176,  179 

thick  or  hip,  176 
Skeleton  of  an  ox,  174, 175 
Slash  (see  Woods),  264 
Sleep,  necessity  of  healthful,  40 
Soaking   the    clothes    before 

washing,  99 
Soap,  how  to  dissolve,  123 
Soft  woods,  265 
Soil,  dangers  to  health  from,  6 
Solution  of  oxalic  acid,  332 
Soot  stains,  305 
Sorrel,  250 

Sorting  the  clothes  for  wash- 
ing, 100 
Spinach,  259 
Spinal  column,  181 
Spine,  175 

Spirits  of  turpentine,  293 
Spontaneous    combustion    of 
oils,  when  absorbed  by  porous 
substances,  298 
Springs,  bed,  45 

(see  Water),  29,  30 
Spruce  (see  Woods),  264,  266 
Squash,  259 
Squirrels,  175 


410 


INDEX 


Stain,  mahogany,  dark,  323 

mahogany,  light,  324 

oak,  324 

oak,  antique,  323,  324 

oak,  very  light,  324 

points  on  mixing,  322 

walnut,  323 
Staining,  things  important  to  re- 
member in,  325 
Staining  floors,  322 

with  ammonia,  321 

with  chemicals,  320 

with  nitric  acid,  321 

with  potash,  320 

with  potassium  permanganate,  320 

with  sal-soda,  318 
Stains,  acid,  308 

alcohol,  on  wood  finish,  310 

alkali,  309 

amount  required  for  one  hundred 
square  feet,  324 

black,  on  wood,  311 

blood,  301,  305 

cherry,  324 

chocolate,  307 

cocoa,  307 

coffee,  307 

first  treatment  of,  300 

fruit,  306 

grease,  305,  307 

grease,  method  of  removing  from 
delicate  fabrics,  308 

grease,  to  prevent  from  spreading 
on  fabric,  308 

grease,  to  remove  by  absorption 
and  an  alkali,  311 

grease,  wheel,  309 

green,  305 

how  color  or  shade  should  pre- 
dominate, 324 

ink,  301 

ink,  to  remove  by  absorption,  302 

ink,  to  remove  with  Javelle  water, 
304 

ink,  to  remove  with  lemon,  302 

ink,  to  remove  with  lemon-juice 
and  salt,  303 

ink,  to  remove  with  milk  and  water, 
302 


ink,  to  remove  with  muriatic  acid, 

304 
ink,  to  remove  with  oxalic  acid,  303 
ink,  to  remove  with  oxalic  acid  and 

cream  of  tartar,  303 
ink,  to  remove  with  red  ink,  304 
ink,  to  remove  with  turpentine,  304 
ink,  to  remove  from  wood  finishes, 

311 
iodine,  305 
iron  rust,  306 
light,  323 
liquid,  321 
made  from  colors  ground  in  oil, 

323 
made  from  colors  in  powder,  323 
on  marble,  difficulty  of  removing, 

66 
method  of  applying  to  floors,  321 
mildew,  309 
paint,  307 
pitch,  309 

removed  before  washing,  100 
roughness   and    stains    made    by 

heat  on  wood  finishes,  310 
from  running  colors,  305 
scorch,  309 
soot,  305 
tar,  309 
tea,  307 

to  prevent  showing  through  white- 
wash and  paper,  338 
value  of  chemicals  when  properly 

used  in  removing,  300 
varnish,  307 
vaseline,  305 

water,  to  remove  from  wood,  311 
wheel-grease,  309 
white,  on  wood  finishes,  332 
wine,  307 
on  wood,  310 
on  wood  finishes,  310 
for  woods,  320 
Staircases,  back  and  front,  12 
Starch,  227,  241-243 
bluing  in,  115 

boiled,  method  of  making,  114 
boiled,  No.  1,  very  stiff,  113 
boiled,  No.  2,  moderately  stiff,  114 


INDEX 


411 


boiled,  No.  3,  less  stiff,  114 
boiled,  No.  4,  not  very  stiff,  for 

dresses  and  skirts,  114 
boiled,  No.  5,  very  thin,  for  table 

linen,  etc.,  114 
colored  articles,  when  and  how  to, 

107 
digestion  of,  227,  243 
gum-arabic,  to  make,  112 
raw,  rules  for  making,  115 
rice,  112 

some  points  on,  111 
stiffening  with  gelatin,  113 
turpentine  in,  112 
vegetables  containing  little  or  no, 
259 
Starched  articles,  how  to  secure 
the  greatest  ease  in  ironing,  114 
Starching,  how  boiled  starch  should 
be  used,  116 
reason  for  ironing  raw-starched 
articles  very  damp,  115 
Steel  knives,  to  keep  from  rusting, 
79 
shavings,  341 
to  remove  rust  from,  90 
wool,  341 
Stewing  meats,  240 
Stoneware,  50,  52 

tendency  to  absorb  fats,  54 
Stove,  gas,  14 
heating,   management  of  fire  of, 

139 
showing  direction  of  waves  of  heat 
when  smoke-damper  is  opened, 
142 
showing  direction  of  waves  of  heat 
when  smoke-damper  is  closed, 
143 
Suet,  melting-point  of,  348 
Sugar,  melting-point  of,  348 
Sulphur  fumes,  to  remove  fruit 

stains,  306 
Summary,   of  method  of  airing 
house,  59 
of  method  of  cleaning  and  restor- 
ing furniture,  285 
of  method  of  cleaning  and  restor- 
ing polish  on  woods,  283 


of  method  of  cleaning  and  waxing 

at  the  same  time,  272 
of  method  of  daily  care  of  kitchen 

utensils,  84 
of  daily  program,  62 
of  general  directions  for   oiling 

floor,  274 
of  method  of  preparing  and  stain- 
ing floor,  322 
of    method   of    preparation   for 

washing,  101 
of  method  of  washing  flannels,  104 
Sunny  exposure  for  house,  2 
Sunshine  for  cellar,  8 
Supplies,  general,  purchasing  and 

care  of,  197 
Sweeping  and  dusting,  general 

directions  for,  63 
Sweetbreads,  194 
Synopsis  of  method  of  serving 
a  dinner,  157 

Table,  49 

breakfast,  the,  151 

dinner,  the,  152 

etiquette,  some  points  on,  158 

of  foods  that  produce  heat  and 
force,  259 

of  foods  necessary  for  growth  and 
repair,  259 

general  arrangement  of  the,  150 

linen,  how  ironed,  121 

linen,  quality  of,  149 

linen,  when  it  requires  starch,  121 

luncheon,  the,  152 

to  protect  from  hot  dishes,  166 

service,  148 

service,  attitude  at  table,  158 

service,  ceremonious  entertaining, 
154 

service,  ceremonious  dinner,  156 

service,  dishes  should  not  be  piled 
one  upon  another,  154 

service,  evidences  of  true  hospital- 
ity, 154 

service,  how  waitress  should  serve 
dishes,  153 

service,  hostess  with  but  one  ser- 
vant, 155 


412 


INDEX 


service,  importance  of  little  things, 

160 
service,  plates,  hot  and  cold,  164 
service,  position  of  knife,  fork,  and 
spoon  when  one  has  finished,  154 
service,  pouring  tea  and  coffee,  160 
service,  ceremonious  occasions,  149 
tea,  152 
of  vegetables  containing  little  or 

no  starch,  259 
waiting  on,  153 
ware,  care  of,  75 
ware,  care  of  china,  77 
ware,  danger  of  soap  on  gilt  china, 

78 
ware,  glass,  76 
ware,  how  the  dish-towels  should 

be  held  in  wiping,  79 
ware,  silver,  75 
Tapioca,  259 
Tar  stains,  309 
Tea-kettle,  care  of,  87 
Tea-pot,  care  of,  88 
Tea  stains,  307 

Temperature,  when  foods  in  a 
liquid  bath  or  in  air,  difference 
in  constancy  of  the,  240 
at  which  various  fats  burn,  231 
high,  develops  flavor  in  cereals, 

252 
of  fats,  how  to  determine,  232 
of  the  house,  to  regulate,  56 
of  water,  importance  of,  in  washing 
flannels,  103 
Tendons,  178,  238 
Tests  for  impurities  in  water, 

33 
Thermometers  in  the  kitchen, 

346 
Thymus  gland,  194 
Tiles,  how  to  clean  and  polish,  66 

in  kitchen,  13 
Tin,  block,  53 

cleaning  with  sand,  53 
utensils,  how  made,  52 
utensils,  list  of,  50 
ware,  49 
Tissue,  connective,  173 
Tomatoes,  241 


Tongue,  193,  212 
Toothpicks,  161 

Traps,  and  their  uses,  23 

sewer-gas,  24 
Trimmings,  brass,  on  furniture,  to 

polish,  328 
Tripoli,  73,  283,  289 
Tubers,  241 
Turkey, 214 
Turnips,  250 
Turpentine,  73,  271,  293,  307 

to  remove  ink  stains,  304 

Ultimate  fibers,  173 
Umber,  281 
Utensils,  kitchen,  48 

Britannia,  49 

care  of  kitchen,  82 

coffee-pots,  88 

copper,  54 

to  deodorize  cooking,  87 

earthen,  list  of,  51 

earthenware,  50 

effect  of  acids,  soda,  and  fats  on 
iron,  85 

general  rule  for  care  of,  84 

granite  or  enameled  ware,  49 

iron,  49 

iron,  list  of,  51 

iron,  treatment  of,  85 

methods  of  cleaning,  83 

miscellaneous,  list  of,  52 

necessary  in  the  kitchen,  48 

pewter,  49 

qualifications  necessary  in  cooking, 
49 

steel,  49 

stone,  list  of,  52 

stoneware,  50 

tea-kettle,  cause  of  rust  in,  87 

tea-pots,  88 

tin,  list  of,  50 

tinware,  49 

wooden,  list  of,  51 

wooden,  proper  care  of,  86 

woodenware,  50 

Varnish,  stained  floors,  to,  321 
stains,  307 


INDEX 


413 


Vaseline  stains,  305 

Veal  (see  Marketing),  186 
Vegetable  substances,  principles 

underlying  cooking  of,  241 
Vegetables,  a  plea  for  more  atten- 
tion to  preparation  of,  249 

effects  of  over-cooking  on,  249 

four  general  classes  of,  241 

fresh,  care  not  to  over-  or  under- 
cook, 249 

fresh,  necessary  conditions  before 
cooking,  249 

fruit  and  flowers,  241 

general  rule  for  certain  methods  of 
cooking,  250 

green,  246 

green,  how  to  keep  fresh,  198 

how  to  blanch,  247 

how  the  French  cook  them,  246 

leguminous,  245 

potatoes,  boiled,  251 

rice,  boiled,  251 

sautered,  247 

secret  of  success  in  cooking,  250 

tuberous,  246 

which  contain  little  or  no  starch, 
259 

winter,  198 
Venison,  195,  212 
Ventilation,  55 

disease  produced  by  breathing  im- 
pure air,  58 

how  to  ventilate  the  kitchen,  59 

how    to   ventilate    the    sleeping 
rooms,  59 

ill  effect  of  breathing  air  in  badly 
ventilated  rooms,  57 

importance  of  airing  dining-room, 
157 

of  soil-pipes,  24 

plan  for  daily  airing  of  the  house,  59 

symptoms  which  follow  breathing 
impure  air,  58 

under  woodwork  that  comes  near 
the  soil,  19 
Vermin  and  insects,  341 
Vertebrae,  175 

Vestibule  and  entrance-hall,  12 
Volatile  oils,  293 


Waitress,  announcing  meals,  162 

duties  of,  161 

how  she  shall  serve  dishes,  153 

mode  of  speaking  to,  159 

personal  appearance  and  dress  of, 
161 

regular  duties  of,  162 

what  she  is  responsible  for,  165 
Wall-papers,  21 
Walls,  advantage  of  thick,  3 

background  for  pictures,  21 

brushing,  63 

finish  of,  4,  21 

of  house,  1,  7 

of  house  to  protect,  when  putting 
in  coal,  133 

of  kitchen,  13 
Walnut  (see  Wood),  265 

stain,  323 
Washing  (see  Laundry),  100 
Water,  advantage  of,  in  removing 
stains,  300 

bluing,  for  rinsing  clothes,  102 

bugs,  342 

inorganic  matter  in,  29 

Javelle,  how  to  make,  330 

Javelle,  for  stains,  304 

lime,  how  to  make,  329 

lime,  some  uses  of,  329 

methods  of  softening  and  purify- 
ing, 30 

necessity  for  pure,  27 

pipes,  1,  5,  30 

pollution  of,  28,  29 

to  purify  by  coagulation,  32 

removing  temporary  hardness,  32 

removing  permanent  hardness,  32 

seal,  24 

solvent  power  of,  28 

sources,  of  organic  pollution  in, 
29 

standard  of  purity,  27 

supply,  1,  27 

temporary  and  permanent  hard- 
ness, 31 
Wax,  for  polishing  furniture,  333 

method  of  applying  to  floors,  271 
Waxed  floors,  270 
Waxing,  preparing  for,  271 


414 


INDEX 


Wells,  depth  of,  30 

situation  of,  29 
Whalebone,   how  to  revive  and 

straighten,  338 
Wheel -grease  stains,  309 
Whirl-bone,  176 
Whitewash,    to    prevent    stains 

from  showing  through,  338 
Whiting,  to  clean  paint  with,  72 

and  linseed-oil   worked    together 
to  make  putty,  318 
Wicks,  lamp,  128 
Windows,  11 

cellar,  when  they  should  be  opened, 
91 

how  to  wash,  67 

location  of,  14 
Window-sashes,  care  of,  74 
Wine  stains,  307 
Wood,  action  of  resin  on,  263 

ash,  264 

bass,  266 

bastard,  264 

cause  of  decay  in,  18 

cedar,  263 

chestnut,  263 

used  in  closets,  kind  of,  20 

comb-grain,  264 

conditions  destructive  to,  263 

direction  in  which  it  shrinks,  264 

used  in  doors  and  sashes,  quality 
of,  19 

fillers,  317 

finishes,  alcoholic  stains  on,  310 

finishes,  ink  stains,  to  remove  from, 
310 

finishes,  roughness  and  stains  made 
by  heat  on,  to  remove,  310 

used  in  floors,  kind  of ',  19,  265 

Georgia  pine,  263 

grease,  to  remove  from,  311 

grease,  to  remove  from,  by  absorp- 
tion and  an  alkali,  311 

hard  pine,  265 

heart,  262 

how  to  protect,  263 


kinds  having  tendency  to  warp, 

264 
locust,  263 

log,  brief  description  of,  262 
mahogany,  265 
manner  of  growth   and   cutting, 

264 
maple,  264,  265,  266 
oak,  265 

poplar,  263,  264,  266 
posts,  how  to  protect,  263 
quartered,  264 
slash,  264 
soft,  265 
spruce,  264,  266 
stains  on,  310 
walnut,  265 
white  pine,  265 

Wrellow  pine,  265 
oods,  262 

and  polished  floors,  262 
which  do  not  require  fillers,  318 
Woodwork,  279 
care  of  natural-wood  finish,  73 
to  clean  and  restore  polish  on,  283 
finishing  of  interior,  20 
in  kitchen,  13 

list  of  colors  used  in  restoring  fin- 
ish and  color,  281 
method  of  removing  dents  from, 

282 
to  restore  dry  or  cracked  surfaces, 

73,286 
to  restore  finish  on,  279 
treatment  of,  finishes,  74 
ventilation  between,  and  soil,  19 
yearly  polishing  of  interior,  74 
Wool,  steel,  341 
Work,  household,  daily  routine  of, 

61 
Wringer,   clothes,  a   few   words 
about,  122 


Yacht-mop,  275 
Yellow  ocher,  281 


INDEX  TO  SUPPLEMENTARY  CHAPTER 


Alkalies,  in  laundering  woolens, 

366 
Ants,  382 
Asbestos  and  silicate  of  soda 

cement,  359 
Bed=bugs,  380 
Beetles,  two  destructive   carpet, 

379 
Blue  stains  on  fabrics,  365 
Brass,  cleaner,  353 

bean  water  for  cleaning,  354 
Brushes,  hair,  to  clean,  357 
Calcimined  walls,  to  prepare  for 

papering,  359 
Carbolized  mutton  tallow,  376 
Carpet,  beetles,  two  destructive, 

379 
grease  spots  on  a,  373 
soap  for  cleaning,  372 
to  restore  color  to  worn  places  in 

a,  372 
Cements,  for  mending  china  and 

crockery,  359 
Chamois  gloves,  to  clean,  369 
China,  cements  for  mending,  359 
Cloth  garments,  to  mend  on  sew- 
ing machine,  374 
Cockroach,  the  domestic,  381 
Colors,  to  set  in  cotton  fabrics, 

370 
to  revive  in  colored  fabrics,  370 
to  restore  to  worn  places  in  car- 
pets, 372 
Contracted  muscles,  caused  by 

burns,  to  cure,  377 
Crape,  to  renovate,  369 
Crockery,   cement  for  mending, 

359 
Embroideries,   silk,  to  launder, 

367 
Enamel,  stains  from,  354 
Feather  pillows,  to  wash,  366 


Feathers,  to  cure,  367 

to  deodorize  and  renovate,  366 
Fly  specks,  to  remove  from  gilt 

frames,  etc.,  356 
Fleas  and   mosquitoes,   spray 

for,  384 
Fleas,  and  remedies  for  them,  384 
Fumigate  with   sulphur,  how 

to,  385 
Fullers'  earth,  to  clean  with,  372 
Furs,  to  clean  light  and  dark,  367 

putting  away,  386 
Garments,  cloth,  to  mend  on  sew- 
ing-machine, 375 
Glass,  bottles,  to  clean,  356 
window,  to  remove  hard  oil  from, 

354 
window,  to  remove  paint  or  var- 
nish from,  354 
Gloves,  chamois,  to  clean,  369 
Glue  on  fabrics  or  furniture,  to  re- 
move, 355 
Grass  stains,  365 
Grease  spots  on  a  carpet,  373 
Griddle,  soapstone,  to  treat,  355 
Hands,  care  of,  375 
preparation    for    softening    and 
whitening,  376 
House,  how  to  prepare  for  closing, 

387 
Ink  stains,  to  eradicate,  358 
Insects,  concerning  household,  377 
ants,  382 
bed-bugs,  380 
carpet  beetles,  379 
clothes  moths,  378 
cockroach,  the  domestic,  381 
fleas  and  remedies  for  them,  384 
silver  moths  and  silver  fish,  381 
spray  for  fleas  and  mosquitoes, 

384 
spray  for  moths,  379 


415 


416 


INDEX 


Ironing  of  starched  articles  made 

easy,  368 
Kid,  white,  to  dry-clean,  367 
Lace,  cleaning  common,  362 
cleaning  with  gasoline  or  naph- 
tha, 364 
cleaning  with  absorbents,  364 
French  method  of  cleaning  fine, 

361 
methods  of  cleaning,  360 
starch  for,  363 
tinting,  363 
washing  fine,  362 
yellow  spots  on,  to  remove,  364 
Matting,    to    remove  rust   from, 

357 
Marble,  stains  from,  354 
Mending   on  a  sewing  machine, 

373 
Moths,  spray  for,  379 
Muscles,  contracted,  to  cure,  377 
Mutton    Tallow,    carbolized, 

376 
Nickel,  tarnished,  to  clean,  353 
Oil,  hard,  from  window  glass,   354 
Oil  of  Cedar,  how  to  employ,  384 
Paintings,  oil,  to  clean,  356 
Pillows,  feather,  to  wash,  366 
Pongees,  silk,  to  launder,  367 
Pounding  in  water  pipes,  360 
Porcelain,  stains  from,  354 
Range,  to   keep  clean  and  black, 

353 
Roach,  the  domestic,  381 
Room,  how  to  seal,  385 
Rugs,  oriental,  to  wash,  371 
Rust,  to    remove   from    matting, 
357 
on  gas  stoves,  355 
on  nickel  plate,  356 


Sewing  machine,   mending  on, 

373 
Silver-moths  and  silver  fish, 

381 
Silver,  paste  for  cleaning,  355 
Soap  for  cleaning  carpets,  372 
Spots     on     Garments,     easy 

method  of  removing,  365 
Starch,  gum-arabic,  363 

for  lace,  363 
Stains,   blue,  from   bluing,    etc., 
365 
from  enameled  utensils,  355 
from  marble,  enamel  and  porce- 
lain, 354 
from  garments,  365 
grass,  365 
glue,  from  fabrics  and  furniture, 

355 
grease  from  carpets,  373 
ink,  to  eradicate,  358 
peach,  365 

rust  from  gas  stoves,  355 
rust  from  nickel  plate,  356 
rust  from  matting,  357 
Sulphur,  how  to  fumigate  with, 

385 
Sunburn  remedy,  376 
Tooth  powder,  376 
Underwear,  to  mend  with  sewing 

machine,  374 
Walls,  whitewashed  or  calcimined, 

to  prepare  for  papering,  359 
Water,  drinking,  when  it  is  neces- 
sary to  boil,  360 
Woolens,  effect  of  strong  alka- 
lies on,  36 
W)utting  away,  386 
rough t  iron,  to  clean,  353 


M 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  LAST  DATE 
STAMPED  BELOW 


AN  INITIAL  FINE  OF  25  CENTS 

WILL  BE  ASSESSED  FOR  FAILURE  TO  RETURN 
THIS  BOOK  ON  THE  DATE  DUE.  THE  PENALTY 
WILL  INCREASE  TO  50  CENTS  ON  THE  FOURTH 
DAY  AND  TO  $1.00  ON  THE  SEVENTH  DAY 
OVERDUE. 


NOV     3  1935 
w.vb   3  ^ 


Ap*  14193? 


_ 


REG .  CIR.JUH3U    II 


?WB    SEP    i  1978 


&& 


SFEBQam,,tj 


gUN0  5  2Q0Q 


APR  2  1  2001 


JUL  2  6  2Q0f 


_ 


Sfik 


t 


